I love the costco towels as well. Agree they are cheap, but not free---- I wash them separately, they clean up well and then ONLY use them for tires/wheels. And then discard after several washes. I find they are super tough and last for a while. Just my thoughts. Love your channel and all the instruction. Re tire shine, I love PERL , but have come to also love DARKSIDE-CarPro
Adam’s is a great. Koch Chemie AWH is the best on the market in my opinion. Immediate browning and just eats the dirt and saves a ton of time. Nice video.
This method actually worked. I did one wash with a brush and power washer to try to get out the bulk of the residue, then 1-2 re-applications of cleanser followed by towel dry. It left it with a clean enough surface that the dressing could adhere well without splattering and last more than 4 days
Great video and advice thank you, I found the video especially informative having seen this exact same problem occur a couple of years ago after purchasing a new Lexus NX. The very first trip of 1000kms on a very hot Australian summer day turned the tires the exact same brown colour as your Kia. Being run flat Dunlops and believing that the tires were defective called the dealership. The service manager explained brown tire blooming is very common on new tires fitted to many modern vehicles. Being more pronounced due to higher levels of lubricant chemicals used to help sidewall deterioration in the event of a puncture. The brown residue was an organic compound or “antiozonant”, anti cracking agent which leaves a sticky brown residue on the surface. Being organic it oxidised left residue on the side walls as it came into contact with the outside air. They offered free cleaning of the tires and rest of the car for the first few months and assured me it would settle down. After a few thousand kms had passed they were 100% right, no more blooming. Lexus service deserves a heads up for not only looking after but explaining why in detail reassuring a customer with little car knowledge of tire technology.
Awesome video. I have a 2x4 that I cut four 12" sections of, and put the car up on them so that I can get the whole tire at once without having to roll it forward to clean the bottom, then again to properly dress them.
You can use Adam’s Graphene VRT to the same dilution ratios as Perl. The Graphene does repel water. I also have nobby AT tires so it also makes application easier.
I really like the dry cleaning tip! I am going to try that method on my tires. For tire shine, try using CarPro ReLoad instead of a dedicated tire shine. The old formula of ReLoad was better, but the new formula still works if you properly clean the tire first. It lasts longer than other methods for people like me who don't like to apply tire shine regularly.
Used to use Adam's VRT, had brown tires all the time. Nowadays I use Hybrid Solutions Hybrid Acrylic and my tires stay black. I clean them with Dawn, works great. If I need more, Super Clean is a bit stronger. Have yet to be convinced to spend on specialized tire cleaners. Great tip on the towel though. I've never done that before, but maybe I could sacrifice some of my Walmart 75-roll microfibers for the final wipe.
Very insightful video. I like to DIY clean my own car on the weekends, and I used the wet method as you described. I thought that was the only way to do it but sometimes I would literally devote an entire afternoon to the wheel/tires due to how long it took to get all 4 tires clean. Will definitely try the dry method next time
My favorite tire protection is Jescar tire and trim protection. Makes the tire look exactly like a brand new tire without shine and beads water nicely and lasts over a month.
Wheel cleaning (Rims and tires) can be a tricky thing to get right. Sure, you can blast the whole wheel with a super high PH (very alkaline) or super low PH (acid) cleaning chemical and no doubt you will probably have a very clean rim and tire at the end of your cleaning session. The underlying problem is that sometimes some of those very caustic chemicals can stain or even etch certain paint finishes on rims if left on them too long which could be literally just a few minutes, no matter if you are out in the heat or inside a garage. Every manufacturer designs and finishes their rims a different way. They may use a different type of paint, or a different consistency of the paint, or a matte finish (which opens a whole other can of worms so to speak), and a myriad of finishes in between so my advice is to use the least most aggressive cleaner to get the job done. No doubt the high PH and super low PH chemicals can get you there quite quickly and efficiently and I even use those type of cleaners myself on occasion if the situation warrants it, usually when I am doing a decontamination type of strip wash on the entire vehicle where I am going to paint correct or at least do a glaze, but I am going to re-apply my protection product. If you maintain your vehicle in pristine condition and you wash it weekly or bi-weekly, you can usually just get away with using a soap. What many TH-camrs who do reviews fail to mention the fact that when using a caustic (super high PH or super low PH) cleaner, you most assuredly will be stripping away the wax or sealant or whatever your protection of choice is on the rims off of the surface, maybe with the exception of ceramic coatings, although even those can be seriously degraded by the caustic chemicals over time, sometimes after just a couple of washes. Any wax or sealant you had on your rims will most assuredly be gone. My point is, if you value your protection on your rims, try to avoid getting the chemicals on the rim face itself. Try to keep the majority of the product on the tire rubber the best you can. Granted, when tires have browned this badly (as shown here) you need a heavy hitter for sure. Just know if you get the chemical on the rim face, you may be removing whatever protection you have on it. I am amazed at guys who use these caustic chemicals on their rims each and every time they clean a rim and tire when most of the time it's overkill. I occasionally use a rim shield (just a round plastic guard with a handle on it that covers the rim face while I spray the tire cleaning product I am using onto the tire rubber only (at least as much as I can) without hitting the rim face with the caustic stuff. Only if my tires are really caked with mud or road grime. 95% of the time I will use Chemical Guys Diablo Wheel Cleaner (which is more of a soap & surfactant based wheel cleaning product that PH neutral and works fantastic on WELL MAINTAINED rims. It's certainly not what I would go for when cleaning a dirty rim but I personally never let my rims get all that dirty unless I am caught in a freak storm or something while I am out. On my daily driver, it's not a big deal, I may go in with the heavy hitters more often as I am not nearly as worried about it as I am with my sports car. I use Soft 99 Fusso Coat as my base wax/sealant and then I top it with Turtle Wax Seal & Shine which both have strong chemical resistance and although the Fusso is a little more difficult to apply and remove (although it's very easy as long as you work in the shade or inside) and the Turtle Wax Seal & Shine is one of the easiest products you will ever use and it performs better than products that cost ten times as much! And the chemical resistant of that one-two punch is unreal. Even if you mistakenly douse your rims with a caustic cleaner, as long as you get it off in a reasonable time frame, you will probably not degrade the Fusso/Seal & Shine combo all that much. Another two great options that I personally have used over the many years I have been detailing is P21S Wheel Gel (also traded as S100 which is much cheaper), and Griot's Garage original wheel cleaner (the blue one) which is PH neutral. P21S is something like 9.5 on the PH scale I believe so it has a little more bite than the PH neutral (Diablo or Griots) and it's relatively safe on your rims and doesn't degrade the protection all that much. P21S is a good one for more heavily soiled wheels on a well maintained vehicle. I have tried just about every type of wheel and rim cleaning product on the market and there are a ton of great ones, but just be very aware when using the caustic chemicals as you 1) most likely will strip off your wax or sealant, and 2) could possibly stain or etch the wheel (which I have done on more than one occasion over the years) which is a disaster you probably won't be able to fix unless you refinish the wheels. Etching and staining is very difficult to remove from a rim for some reason. Of course it's all depending on what finish you have, what make vehicle you have, what kind of vehicle you have, factory over aftermarket rims, etc. There are so many variables that it's hard to determine what you can and cannot use caustic wheel cleaning chemicals on. It may not happen immediately, but the likelihood it will happen at some point over time is a good possibility. Often you don't see the staining and etching right away. I play it safe and use the PH neutral stuff 90% of the time and for me, it works great. I use the least most aggressive product to get the job done effectively. Most of the time believe it or not, plain ole' soap is all you need to clean your rims if they're well maintained. I do completely agree with everything said here for using a heavy hitter to strip off anything from the rubber before you want to go back in with another dressing, especially a solvent based dressing like Darkside. You can usually get away with "topping" a dressing a time or two if you are using a water based dressing as long as you scrub it well with either a good soap or cleaning product of choice prior to topping it off to refresh the appearance, but that's just from my own experience with solvent and water based dressings. I have even topped off Darkside on occasion with no problem. Again, that's my personal experience which is not saying I am any expert, I've just been detailing for a long time and have spent thousands upon thousands of dollars over the years on useless and ineffective detailing products that claim to be the end all/be all so to speak of detailing products. So many new products are being released these days it's mind boggling. Most of them are just rebranded junk that was junk before it was rebranded. It's just two junk products now instead of one. I think many people using detailing products would be very surprised to find out how many of their favorite detailing products they have on hand at home are just rebranded products made by one of the larger chemical manufacturers. Granted, there are a few exceptions. The larger companies probably make their own chemicals, but not always. Most of the TH-camrs who now have their own brands of products (which is a bunch of them now days!) are just using a chemical company to make their products for them and put a label they designed on it and they call it their "proprietary blend" or "of their design", blah blah. Half the time, it's rebranded stuff which could be great or junk. Of course the sellers will say "Oh, it's my own proprietary "blend" or "Oh, it's my own formulation". It's still rebranded stuff, which in many cases is the exact same product of a different company in a different bottle with a different label, maybe with different scent or color so they can call it "their own" formulation. Only the big boys are actually innovating products on their own, bottling it in their own facility and bringing them to market after extensive real world beta testing, revisions first and then release to the consumer market. I am of the "old school" thinking. I never got sucked into all the hype of all these crazy claims made by these companies about how their products are so much better than the next guy. Most of the chemicals work the same way they just are labeled differently whether it's a label that catches your eye at the store or whatever. Just be very suspect of crazy claims that a product is "the best" based on TH-cam claims without fully testing the product for yourself or at least speaking with somebody you know who has used it. I mean, how many rinseless washes to we need? There must be a hundred of those out there nowadays. It's the new HYPE word. The new buzzword in detailing just like "GRAPHENE" was (and in many ways still is) several years ago. Everybody HAD to have the graphene coatings or they thought they were being left behind, only to find out that graphene really wasn't all that life changing for the detailing market after all and most companies have since backed off on that hype word and moved on to the new hype word of the day...rinseless washes! Hell, some companies have many different rinseless wash formulations. How many rinseless do you need? I only need ONE. One that works fantastically well, not five different ones for five different things, that just makes it highly confusing for the consumer to make a decision. Just be suspect of all the over hyped and touted up stuff and if you have a solid detailing method you like using, and it produces the results you are happy with, stick with it, save some money, and enjoy driving more! Happy detailing ya'll and I hope to see you on the road someday! 😀
As a professional detailer myself, I'll say that I run into this a LOT on cars when my customers use Armor All or Black Magic tire shine at home. I prefer a water based tire shine, you don't get the browning problem if the tire is cleaned and preped properly and a water based shine is used.
I use meguiars silicone based shine. But I use very little and spread it evenly instead of caking it on. I also tend to properly clean the rubber using, again, meguiars all wheel cleaner and a brush. The brown I get is from blooming.
Thanks for the info on cleaning. I was wondering for the dressing currently using Car guys and another TH-camr project farm. Just did a test of tire shines with car guys being the value winner.
Yes my tyres on my new ex dem Mazda2 hybrid were brown. So I took the soft99 wheel care kit that was on offer. It worked great and 2-3 month later they're still not brown.
Agree with Williambell----- Shine Supply Wise Guys is the absolute Best Tire cleaner for caked on grime and gooped on tire shine. But careful on ceramic coated wheels. Can also use - Cool Guys from Shine Supply which is not quite as potent, but safe for coated wheels and also super effective. Lastly, a plug for BILT HAMBER Auto-Wheel. Harder to get (Carzilla in Canada). The BEST Wheel Cleaner I've ever used---- only need it a few times a year in between regular maintenance. ---- Owen (DIYer, but doc by day and car enthusiast)
I run Kumho AT tires. In my experience Kumho tires seem to have a lot of mold inhibitors and not as much black pigment to help reduce the browning. On average I wash my truck weekly or sometimes twice a week and most of the time it’s cleaning the tires. To keep from stripping rue color I have to use more physical cleaning versus chemical. For the Kumho Road Vebtuee AT 52s I’m still trying to find the best tire dressing. Currently slightly watered down Graphene VRT (easier application) seems to be working best to keep browning down
I use Turtle Wax Wheel & Tire cleaner. I just tried the Dawn Powerwash. While it did okay, it didn't remove nearly as much oxidation from the tires that the TW did remove. I think I'll stick with Turtle Wax.
I go past my local Mini Car dealership on my way to work and there is always someone putting oil-based dressing onto the tyres of the used cars on their forecourt. They must go through tons of the stuff. Repeated usage has caused the tyres on some of their unmoved used cars to turn a funny yellowy-orange colour.
It would be interesting to see your take on Meguiar's D 14301 Non-acid Wheel and Tire Cleaner. I just used it, with your towel method, and the tires came out great. $24.19 a gallon on Amazon. It also makes you cough...so it could have the same active ingredients as the one you used. I've got lots of great tips and techniques from your channel. Alwasy spot on. Thanks!!
How did you black out the wheels? And, my Crugens are weird. I can’t get them clean and they don’t hold tire black. I’ve tried 4 rubber cleaners and cannot get them to stop leaching whatever they’re leaching.
Just wanted to point out that on the first tire you were washing and jet seeing brown foam when scrubbing, you never rinsed off the brush. It's full of the dirty cleaner you just scrubbed off and you're reintroducing the oils back onto the tire. I've always used Wesley's or Black Magic Bleach-White white wall cleaner. It works great on white walls, white raised letters, and regular black wall tires. And I like to clean all my tires, then roll the car back a foot or two so the bottom section that is too close to the ground and my brush can't reach is now easily accessible.
Can you tell me why no matter how much I scrub my tires when I apply dressing and either level it or wipe excess after a while, my cloths pull off basically rubber mud? I don’t get it. The tires are two years old. I’ve used two bottles of Chemical Guys Rubber Cleaner, scrubbed, rubbed, you name it. They look clean but as soon as any brand of dressing hits them they seem to ooze petroleum. The same Kumho tires on your EV6.
Mate a pretty good job on those tires 🛞….. I definitely learnt something today, you explained the aspects of the reason why tires aren’t cleaned properly. Good job 👍
Clean the tire until there is no more residue. This is like priming before painting. You now have a surface that will not repel what you apply to it. All I use is the cheapest hair spray you can buy $3 a can at the dollar store. Apply in a garage or windless day. Cover the rim or try not to get any on it or your paint while spraying. Let it dry well and you’ll have a waterproof coating that lasts weeks. Does not fling onto the paint from the tire and you can overcoat it with traditional tire shine if you like. My go to tire spray is CHEMICAL GUYS TIRE KICKER EXTRA SHINE…..this and the hair spray work great together. If you get a smudge just go over it with the tire shine like you are polishing it. Takes no time.
You say not to use a strong cleaner like a degreaser, but those aren’t going to pull out all the oils if you use it once or even twice only on this initial clean. Instead of using the tire cleaner 3 or 4 times, use the strong cleaner once then use the tire cleaner for the second clean.
Carpro Retyre will remove that brown with one application. And although not listed on instructions, I’ve tried it diluted 1:1 with same results as undiluted.
If you watch the video, one pass with Gyeon Tire cleaner removed all the brown using my “dry” method. Yet it still was pulling stuff off the surface off the tire wipe after wipe. That was the whole intention of this video, just because it looks clean, doesn’t mean it’s perfectly clean.
@@OutofSpecDetailing ah. Thanks for that explanation. Like you said you are very particular with your detailing like me! Keep up the good work. I subscribed!
In your opinion, What is the best Tire Protectant that resists UV Rays and slows Tire Cracking in Hot Climates? Here in Florida your tires will start Cracking way before the tread shows wear to replace.
@@OutofSpecDetailing not talking about single purpose cleaning agents…although I try to find multiple purposes if possible. I’m talking about single use…as in one use of a microfiber towel and throwing it away. Buy a bunch and wash them in their own load to avoid cross contamination.
I like clean and shiny tires myself but have really not run into the browning here in the midwest, luckily. And among my vehicles I have some very old and also very new tires. I gotta say if you went around the car and sprayed each tire THAT many times with the tire cleaner, you'd go through a massive amount! Spray, spray, spray...........spray again. How much does a bottle cost?
Gotta ask but are you cleaning/rinsing the tire brush after scrubbing? Cause wouldn't all the dirt that was originally transferred from the first passing onto the brush, still transfers onto the second passing causing the browness? Basically its like cleaning off a dirty surface with a rag, and then using that same dirty rag and trying to clean that previously dirty surface more when it was already cleaned.
Shine Supply Wise Guy is the strongest tire cleaner i have seen. Its also very economical when purchasing by the gallon. Highly concentrated. For a "dry" method, Shaeffers 666 or Stoners Xenit make quick work on the worst of tires. Both are strong citrus degreasers.
I’m going to try the Pearl, I was using the chemical guys VRP straight for the past year and it was fine but I want to try your advice as I haven’t tried everything. Did you ever use VRP for interior?? Thanks from a newbie
10% SuperClean solution with a dash of Dawn and a brush attachment on a cordless drill. All brown goongone in two minutes per tire. Dress with AeroCosmetics Tire & Rubber Care. Fast, cheap, & most effective.
I just spent the last 8 hours cleaning and i am going to tell you this is not worth it now i have only one tire clean and three to go, not doing it nope.
The problem is the tire cleaner. Aggressive tire cleaners like the one you’re using are made with cheap ingredients that are too aggressive which in turn lead to your tires turning brown. Use a quality tire cleaner like Mckee’s Tire Rejuvenator and you’ll truly see a night & day difference. Mothers Tire Renew is another quality tire cleaner. “Dedicated tire cleaner” means squat. 90% of them are made with the cheapest ingredients.
@@OutofSpecDetailing Quality ingredients in their tire cleaner. It’s not always safe to assume that just because Gyeon is supposedly a quality brand that all of their products are going to be the highest quality. Every brand has their hit & misses. I’m not a big fan of Mothers, but they make a damn good tire cleaner. So good that they recommend it can even be used waterless. How many tire cleaners have you seen that say you can use it waterless on the label?
@@Samuelfish2kwhat ingredients are they using that makes them quality compared to these other tire cleaners. We need more information if you are going to make this claim.
@@YanniObkirk Go watch Mckee’s video on the product, they explain it. I don’t claim to be a genius, but I have used the products and can confirm that what they say is true. As far as the Mothers, it performs nearly identical as the Mckee’s which is why it deserves mention.
@@YanniObkirk This is copy/pasted straight from mckees product description: “STOP CLEANING YOUR TIRES WITH CAUSTIC ALL PURPOSE CLEANERS! These high-octane, inexpensive cleaners actually do more harm than good. The issue with most all purpose cleaners is that they're formulated to meet a certain price point, and in order to achieve that inexpensive price point, caustic ingredients are often found in these products. These caustic detergents are harmful to you AND your tires! You see, tires contain antiozonants, rubber conditioners, and UV absorbers that help keep the tire flexible. The wrong cleaner will actually cause the antiozonants, rubber conditioners, and UV absorbers to leach out of the tire, resulting in browning, discoloration and cracking of the tire. McKee's 37 Tire & Rubber Rejuvenator is non-caustic, non-acidic, and it will not harm your tires! It's common knowledge among professional detailers and car care enthusiasts that a tire gel or tire shine spray will last considerably longer if the tire is properly cleaned first. By completely removing previously applied dressings and protectants, you have a clean base for the new tire shine to adhere to. This greatly extends the durability and increases the look of your tire shine of choice. McKee's 37 Tire & Rubber Rejuvenator is safe for use on all tires. We recommend spraying the wheel with water first, just to ensure any unwanted overspray is easy to remove. McKee's 37 Tire & Rubber Rejuvenator is the first step in prepping your tires for application of McKee's 37 Ceramic Tire Coating, an acrylic-based resin that forms a flexible, chemical-resistant coating on your tires. If you plan on coating your tires with McKee's 37 Ceramic Tire Coating, you MUST use McKee's 37 Tire & Rubber Rejuvenator first, or else the coating will not properly adhere”.
What does that mean? We have an e-tron and dang if it's not the sweetest thing we own out of 10 vehicles. By far sweeter to drive than my ZO6, of course in a very different way.
I am sick of videos that don’t get to the point. All kinds of banter filling time without much information. This is really simple. Use tire cleaner. Clean tires until brown gunk comes off. Put tire dressing on. All the rest of the adjectival banter is useless. Get to the point. 10 minutes of info PACKED into 31 minutes. Very annoying!
I agree…. Great work, but life is too short. Keep em clean with simple green from the get go, and use aerospace 303. Light shine, doesn’t gunk. Live life.
I personally think this is one of the best detailing channels
Hey thanks! Trying to get good videos out for you guys!
Totally agree.
agreed!
I thought I knew how to clean tires, but I don't. Thank You Colton
The towel method is especially good in the winter when doing rinseless washes whether inside a garage or outside.
I love the costco towels as well. Agree they are cheap, but not free---- I wash them separately, they clean up well and then ONLY use them for tires/wheels. And then discard after several washes. I find they are super tough and last for a while. Just my thoughts. Love your channel and all the instruction. Re tire shine, I love PERL , but have come to also love DARKSIDE-CarPro
Adam’s is a great. Koch Chemie AWH is the best on the market in my opinion. Immediate browning and just eats the dirt and saves a ton of time. Nice video.
I’ll give Koch Chemie a try. I’ve been impressed with every product I’ve tried from them. Appreciate the recommendation!
@@OutofSpecDetailing Of course! I think you'll be blown away. th-cam.com/users/shortsRqmImfaawtw
Where in AZ are you located? I need some work done on my truck.
This method actually worked. I did one wash with a brush and power washer to try to get out the bulk of the residue, then 1-2 re-applications of cleanser followed by towel dry. It left it with a clean enough surface that the dressing could adhere well without splattering and last more than 4 days
Great video and advice thank you, I found the video especially informative having seen this exact same problem occur a couple of years ago after purchasing a new Lexus NX. The very first trip of 1000kms on a very hot Australian summer day turned the tires the exact same brown colour as your Kia. Being run flat Dunlops and believing that the tires were defective called the dealership. The service manager explained brown tire blooming is very common on new tires fitted to many modern vehicles. Being more pronounced due to higher levels of lubricant chemicals used to help sidewall deterioration in the event of a puncture. The brown residue was an organic compound or “antiozonant”, anti cracking agent which leaves a sticky brown residue on the surface. Being organic it oxidised left residue on the side walls as it came into contact with the outside air.
They offered free cleaning of the tires and rest of the car for the first few months and assured me it would settle down. After a few thousand kms had passed they were 100% right, no more blooming. Lexus service deserves a heads up for not only looking after but explaining why in detail reassuring a customer with little car knowledge of tire technology.
Tried the towel method this weekend on the Cybertruck tires and it did a great job cleaning all the brown junk off!! Thanks for sharing!
Awesome!
Awesome video. I have a 2x4 that I cut four 12" sections of, and put the car up on them so that I can get the whole tire at once without having to roll it forward to clean the bottom, then again to properly dress them.
You can use Adam’s Graphene VRT to the same dilution ratios as Perl. The Graphene does repel water. I also have nobby AT tires so it also makes application easier.
I really like the dry cleaning tip! I am going to try that method on my tires.
For tire shine, try using CarPro ReLoad instead of a dedicated tire shine. The old formula of ReLoad was better, but the new formula still works if you properly clean the tire first. It lasts longer than other methods for people like me who don't like to apply tire shine regularly.
Thanks for the tips! I sometimes use lacquer thinner on difficult tires when nothing else works.
Used to use Adam's VRT, had brown tires all the time. Nowadays I use Hybrid Solutions Hybrid Acrylic and my tires stay black. I clean them with Dawn, works great. If I need more, Super Clean is a bit stronger. Have yet to be convinced to spend on specialized tire cleaners. Great tip on the towel though. I've never done that before, but maybe I could sacrifice some of my Walmart 75-roll microfibers for the final wipe.
Tire cleaning 101 to 1001! Thanks Coleton 🙏
Nice demo. Do you dilute the Adams tire and rubber?? Those are the brownest tires I’ve ever seen, omg. I learned a lot , thanks for sharing
I like the Dura-Coating tire cleaner and does it fast too
Hands down 💯 % CARPRO RETIRE is the best of the best to get a tire 💯 % black.
Very insightful video. I like to DIY clean my own car on the weekends, and I used the wet method as you described. I thought that was the only way to do it but sometimes I would literally devote an entire afternoon to the wheel/tires due to how long it took to get all 4 tires clean. Will definitely try the dry method next time
My favorite tire protection is Jescar tire and trim protection. Makes the tire look exactly like a brand new tire without shine and beads water nicely and lasts over a month.
Wheel cleaning (Rims and tires) can be a tricky thing to get right. Sure, you can blast the whole wheel with a super high PH (very alkaline) or super low PH (acid) cleaning chemical and no doubt you will probably have a very clean rim and tire at the end of your cleaning session. The underlying problem is that sometimes some of those very caustic chemicals can stain or even etch certain paint finishes on rims if left on them too long which could be literally just a few minutes, no matter if you are out in the heat or inside a garage. Every manufacturer designs and finishes their rims a different way. They may use a different type of paint, or a different consistency of the paint, or a matte finish (which opens a whole other can of worms so to speak), and a myriad of finishes in between so my advice is to use the least most aggressive cleaner to get the job done. No doubt the high PH and super low PH chemicals can get you there quite quickly and efficiently and I even use those type of cleaners myself on occasion if the situation warrants it, usually when I am doing a decontamination type of strip wash on the entire vehicle where I am going to paint correct or at least do a glaze, but I am going to re-apply my protection product. If you maintain your vehicle in pristine condition and you wash it weekly or bi-weekly, you can usually just get away with using a soap. What many TH-camrs who do reviews fail to mention the fact that when using a caustic (super high PH or super low PH) cleaner, you most assuredly will be stripping away the wax or sealant or whatever your protection of choice is on the rims off of the surface, maybe with the exception of ceramic coatings, although even those can be seriously degraded by the caustic chemicals over time, sometimes after just a couple of washes. Any wax or sealant you had on your rims will most assuredly be gone. My point is, if you value your protection on your rims, try to avoid getting the chemicals on the rim face itself. Try to keep the majority of the product on the tire rubber the best you can. Granted, when tires have browned this badly (as shown here) you need a heavy hitter for sure. Just know if you get the chemical on the rim face, you may be removing whatever protection you have on it. I am amazed at guys who use these caustic chemicals on their rims each and every time they clean a rim and tire when most of the time it's overkill. I occasionally use a rim shield (just a round plastic guard with a handle on it that covers the rim face while I spray the tire cleaning product I am using onto the tire rubber only (at least as much as I can) without hitting the rim face with the caustic stuff. Only if my tires are really caked with mud or road grime. 95% of the time I will use Chemical Guys Diablo Wheel Cleaner (which is more of a soap & surfactant based wheel cleaning product that PH neutral and works fantastic on WELL MAINTAINED rims. It's certainly not what I would go for when cleaning a dirty rim but I personally never let my rims get all that dirty unless I am caught in a freak storm or something while I am out. On my daily driver, it's not a big deal, I may go in with the heavy hitters more often as I am not nearly as worried about it as I am with my sports car. I use Soft 99 Fusso Coat as my base wax/sealant and then I top it with Turtle Wax Seal & Shine which both have strong chemical resistance and although the Fusso is a little more difficult to apply and remove (although it's very easy as long as you work in the shade or inside) and the Turtle Wax Seal & Shine is one of the easiest products you will ever use and it performs better than products that cost ten times as much! And the chemical resistant of that one-two punch is unreal. Even if you mistakenly douse your rims with a caustic cleaner, as long as you get it off in a reasonable time frame, you will probably not degrade the Fusso/Seal & Shine combo all that much. Another two great options that I personally have used over the many years I have been detailing is P21S Wheel Gel (also traded as S100 which is much cheaper), and Griot's Garage original wheel cleaner (the blue one) which is PH neutral. P21S is something like 9.5 on the PH scale I believe so it has a little more bite than the PH neutral (Diablo or Griots) and it's relatively safe on your rims and doesn't degrade the protection all that much. P21S is a good one for more heavily soiled wheels on a well maintained vehicle. I have tried just about every type of wheel and rim cleaning product on the market and there are a ton of great ones, but just be very aware when using the caustic chemicals as you 1) most likely will strip off your wax or sealant, and 2) could possibly stain or etch the wheel (which I have done on more than one occasion over the years) which is a disaster you probably won't be able to fix unless you refinish the wheels. Etching and staining is very difficult to remove from a rim for some reason. Of course it's all depending on what finish you have, what make vehicle you have, what kind of vehicle you have, factory over aftermarket rims, etc. There are so many variables that it's hard to determine what you can and cannot use caustic wheel cleaning chemicals on. It may not happen immediately, but the likelihood it will happen at some point over time is a good possibility. Often you don't see the staining and etching right away. I play it safe and use the PH neutral stuff 90% of the time and for me, it works great. I use the least most aggressive product to get the job done effectively. Most of the time believe it or not, plain ole' soap is all you need to clean your rims if they're well maintained. I do completely agree with everything said here for using a heavy hitter to strip off anything from the rubber before you want to go back in with another dressing, especially a solvent based dressing like Darkside. You can usually get away with "topping" a dressing a time or two if you are using a water based dressing as long as you scrub it well with either a good soap or cleaning product of choice prior to topping it off to refresh the appearance, but that's just from my own experience with solvent and water based dressings. I have even topped off Darkside on occasion with no problem. Again, that's my personal experience which is not saying I am any expert, I've just been detailing for a long time and have spent thousands upon thousands of dollars over the years on useless and ineffective detailing products that claim to be the end all/be all so to speak of detailing products. So many new products are being released these days it's mind boggling. Most of them are just rebranded junk that was junk before it was rebranded. It's just two junk products now instead of one. I think many people using detailing products would be very surprised to find out how many of their favorite detailing products they have on hand at home are just rebranded products made by one of the larger chemical manufacturers. Granted, there are a few exceptions. The larger companies probably make their own chemicals, but not always. Most of the TH-camrs who now have their own brands of products (which is a bunch of them now days!) are just using a chemical company to make their products for them and put a label they designed on it and they call it their "proprietary blend" or "of their design", blah blah. Half the time, it's rebranded stuff which could be great or junk. Of course the sellers will say "Oh, it's my own proprietary "blend" or "Oh, it's my own formulation". It's still rebranded stuff, which in many cases is the exact same product of a different company in a different bottle with a different label, maybe with different scent or color so they can call it "their own" formulation. Only the big boys are actually innovating products on their own, bottling it in their own facility and bringing them to market after extensive real world beta testing, revisions first and then release to the consumer market. I am of the "old school" thinking. I never got sucked into all the hype of all these crazy claims made by these companies about how their products are so much better than the next guy. Most of the chemicals work the same way they just are labeled differently whether it's a label that catches your eye at the store or whatever. Just be very suspect of crazy claims that a product is "the best" based on TH-cam claims without fully testing the product for yourself or at least speaking with somebody you know who has used it. I mean, how many rinseless washes to we need? There must be a hundred of those out there nowadays. It's the new HYPE word. The new buzzword in detailing just like "GRAPHENE" was (and in many ways still is) several years ago. Everybody HAD to have the graphene coatings or they thought they were being left behind, only to find out that graphene really wasn't all that life changing for the detailing market after all and most companies have since backed off on that hype word and moved on to the new hype word of the day...rinseless washes! Hell, some companies have many different rinseless wash formulations. How many rinseless do you need? I only need ONE. One that works fantastically well, not five different ones for five different things, that just makes it highly confusing for the consumer to make a decision. Just be suspect of all the over hyped and touted up stuff and if you have a solid detailing method you like using, and it produces the results you are happy with, stick with it, save some money, and enjoy driving more! Happy detailing ya'll and I hope to see you on the road someday! 😀
As a professional detailer myself, I'll say that I run into this a LOT on cars when my customers use Armor All or Black Magic tire shine at home. I prefer a water based tire shine, you don't get the browning problem if the tire is cleaned and preped properly and a water based shine is used.
I use meguiars silicone based shine. But I use very little and spread it evenly instead of caking it on. I also tend to properly clean the rubber using, again, meguiars all wheel cleaner and a brush. The brown I get is from blooming.
Armor All Tire Gel is actually water based.
What water-based tire shine are you using?
@@Samuelfish2k yes it is , but the regular Armor All is silicone based
@daarionaharis3675 I like P&S. Works great. If you just want to run to Wal Mart and grab one, suds.lab Tire and Trim works great also.
Thanks for the info on cleaning. I was wondering for the dressing currently using Car guys and another TH-camr project farm. Just did a test of tire shines with car guys being the value winner.
Yes my tyres on my new ex dem Mazda2 hybrid were brown. So I took the soft99 wheel care kit that was on offer. It worked great and 2-3 month later they're still not brown.
Agree with Williambell----- Shine Supply Wise Guys is the absolute Best Tire cleaner for caked on grime and gooped on tire shine. But careful on ceramic coated wheels. Can also use - Cool Guys from Shine Supply which is not quite as potent, but safe for coated wheels and also super effective. Lastly, a plug for BILT HAMBER Auto-Wheel. Harder to get (Carzilla in Canada). The BEST Wheel Cleaner I've ever used---- only need it a few times a year in between regular maintenance. ---- Owen (DIYer, but doc by day and car enthusiast)
I run Kumho AT tires. In my experience Kumho tires seem to have a lot of mold inhibitors and not as much black pigment to help reduce the browning. On average I wash my truck weekly or sometimes twice a week and most of the time it’s cleaning the tires. To keep from stripping rue color I have to use more physical cleaning versus chemical. For the Kumho Road Vebtuee AT 52s I’m still trying to find the best tire dressing. Currently slightly watered down Graphene VRT (easier application) seems to be working best to keep browning down
I use Turtle Wax Wheel & Tire cleaner. I just tried the Dawn Powerwash. While it did okay, it didn't remove nearly as much oxidation from the tires that the TW did remove. I think I'll stick with Turtle Wax.
P&S "Undressed" is also a really good option for stripping off those cheap tire dressings.
This was below average for me. I'm going to give the gallon away.
I go past my local Mini Car dealership on my way to work and there is always someone putting oil-based dressing onto the tyres of the used cars on their forecourt. They must go through tons of the stuff. Repeated usage has caused the tyres on some of their unmoved used cars to turn a funny yellowy-orange colour.
It would be interesting to see your take on Meguiar's D 14301 Non-acid Wheel and Tire Cleaner. I just used it, with your towel method, and the tires came out great. $24.19 a gallon on Amazon. It also makes you cough...so it could have the same active ingredients as the one you used. I've got lots of great tips and techniques from your channel. Alwasy spot on. Thanks!!
Great video, thanks for sharing!!!!!!!!
How did you black out the wheels?
And, my Crugens are weird. I can’t get them clean and they don’t hold tire black. I’ve tried 4 rubber cleaners and cannot get them to stop leaching whatever they’re leaching.
Just wanted to point out that on the first tire you were washing and jet seeing brown foam when scrubbing, you never rinsed off the brush. It's full of the dirty cleaner you just scrubbed off and you're reintroducing the oils back onto the tire. I've always used Wesley's or Black Magic Bleach-White white wall cleaner. It works great on white walls, white raised letters, and regular black wall tires. And I like to clean all my tires, then roll the car back a foot or two so the bottom section that is too close to the ground and my brush can't reach is now easily accessible.
Brush goes into a bucket.. It gets rinsed off
Can you tell me why no matter how much I scrub my tires when I apply dressing and either level it or wipe excess after a while, my cloths pull off basically rubber mud? I don’t get it. The tires are two years old. I’ve used two bottles of Chemical Guys Rubber Cleaner, scrubbed, rubbed, you name it. They look clean but as soon as any brand of dressing hits them they seem to ooze petroleum. The same Kumho tires on your EV6.
is it possible to recycle the 'single use' microfiber towels?
Mate a pretty good job on those tires 🛞….. I definitely learnt something today, you explained the aspects of the reason why tires aren’t cleaned properly. Good job 👍
How can that factory OEM color dot still be on the tire?
DIY Detail all purpose cleaner works great on tires!
Clean the tire until there is no more residue. This is like priming before painting.
You now have a surface that will not repel what you apply to it.
All I use is the cheapest hair spray you can buy $3 a can at the dollar store.
Apply in a garage or windless day.
Cover the rim or try not to get any on it or your paint while spraying.
Let it dry well and you’ll have a waterproof coating that lasts weeks.
Does not fling onto the paint from the tire and you can overcoat it with traditional tire shine if you like.
My go to tire spray is CHEMICAL GUYS TIRE KICKER EXTRA SHINE…..this and the hair spray work great together.
If you get a smudge just go over it with the tire shine like you are polishing it.
Takes no time.
Amazing video, I've been doing it wrong this whole time
I just put some carpro reload on with a rag, both rim and tire. Its also great for plastics
You say not to use a strong cleaner like a degreaser, but those aren’t going to pull out all the oils if you use it once or even twice only on this initial clean. Instead of using the tire cleaner 3 or 4 times, use the strong cleaner once then use the tire cleaner for the second clean.
QUESTION..ive never had this issue. Can you tell us and list what tire shines are the wrong kind?
I also love Adams Graphene tire shine. Seems to be pretty similar to Perl.
Any suggestions on removing the colored dots on new tires?
Yep, a dab of brake cleaner on an old rag gets them right off. Always the first thing I do on new cars/tires before cleaning the rest of the tire 👍
Oh i always like the dots. Gives that new tire look lmao
Carpro Retyre will remove that brown with one application. And although not listed on instructions, I’ve tried it diluted 1:1 with same results as undiluted.
If you watch the video, one pass with Gyeon Tire cleaner removed all the brown using my “dry” method. Yet it still was pulling stuff off the surface off the tire wipe after wipe. That was the whole intention of this video, just because it looks clean, doesn’t mean it’s perfectly clean.
@@OutofSpecDetailing ah. Thanks for that explanation. Like you said you are very particular with your detailing like me! Keep up the good work. I subscribed!
In your opinion, What is the best Tire Protectant that resists UV Rays and slows Tire Cracking in Hot Climates? Here in Florida your tires will start Cracking way before the tread shows wear to replace.
Not a fan of intentionally buying single use anything. But I appreciate the detail in the analysis.
So you want a single product to clean everything on your car? Seems illogical
@@OutofSpecDetailing not talking about single purpose cleaning agents…although I try to find multiple purposes if possible. I’m talking about single use…as in one use of a microfiber towel and throwing it away. Buy a bunch and wash them in their own load to avoid cross contamination.
I like clean and shiny tires myself but have really not run into the browning here in the midwest, luckily. And among my vehicles I have some very old and also very new tires. I gotta say if you went around the car and sprayed each tire THAT many times with the tire cleaner, you'd go through a massive amount! Spray, spray, spray...........spray again. How much does a bottle cost?
My Dad cleaned tires/ white walls with Comet... looked good to me. What are these car care chemicals doing to our environment/ water?
Gotta ask but are you cleaning/rinsing the tire brush after scrubbing? Cause wouldn't all the dirt that was originally transferred from the first passing onto the brush, still transfers onto the second passing causing the browness? Basically its like cleaning off a dirty surface with a rag, and then using that same dirty rag and trying to clean that previously dirty surface more when it was already cleaned.
On a different note, do those wheels have aero covers? Cos if not, how would you clean the barrels?
Can you provide a link for the foam application pads you use? Thanks!
And a link to the tire shine please😀
Shine Supply Wise Guy is the strongest tire cleaner i have seen. Its also very economical when purchasing by the gallon. Highly concentrated. For a "dry" method, Shaeffers 666 or Stoners Xenit make quick work on the worst of tires. Both are strong citrus degreasers.
Stoner's Tar and Sap Remover also does wonders for cleaning "brown" tires.
@@ronayotte3571 Thanks, i need to get that one also. Stoners products are reasonably priced. Unlike Citrol 666 which is expensive .
I heard this brown color comes from UV retardant in the rubber itself. Anyone know if there's truth to this?
I’m going to try the Pearl, I was using the chemical guys VRP straight for the past year and it was fine but I want to try your advice as I haven’t tried everything. Did you ever use VRP for interior?? Thanks from a newbie
Geez man. Good video
Great video. Can you give your thoughts on Griot's Garage products?
I only use Griot’s and DIY Detail products…the rest are a waist of money!
@@jezza6575 I like Griots as well but I've never seen Coleton talk about their products.
Lots of great products out there from all brands. I haven’t been a huge fan of Griot’s in the past, but happy to test some stuff.
Great video thanks 😊
Try Comet 👍
10% SuperClean solution with a dash of Dawn and a brush attachment on a cordless drill. All brown goongone in two minutes per tire.
Dress with AeroCosmetics Tire & Rubber Care.
Fast, cheap, & most effective.
Those tires looks like they got a paint sealant sprayed on them instead of tire dressing. I may or may not have done that on accident before...
Nice!
I thought we were done with “NUCULAR” with GW. 🤦♂️🤦♂️
I just spent the last 8 hours cleaning and i am going to tell you this is not worth it now i have only one tire clean and three to go, not doing it nope.
If you properly clean your tires first, Tuff Shine lasts for months.
I’m still counting the number of times you said “disgusting”….😂
That’s disgusting
Thank you Coleton, been following your videos for quite some time, and every video is nicely educational. Add me as your channel subscriber.
Wise Guy or Adams Tire and Rubber Cleaner will clean tires much better than Gyeon Tire Cleaner.
The problem is the tire cleaner.
Aggressive tire cleaners like the one you’re using are made with cheap ingredients that are too aggressive which in turn lead to your tires turning brown.
Use a quality tire cleaner like Mckee’s Tire Rejuvenator and you’ll truly see a night & day difference. Mothers Tire Renew is another quality tire cleaner.
“Dedicated tire cleaner” means squat. 90% of them are made with the cheapest ingredients.
Wouldn’t consider Mothers “quality”
@@OutofSpecDetailing Quality ingredients in their tire cleaner.
It’s not always safe to assume that just because Gyeon is supposedly a quality brand that all of their products are going to be the highest quality. Every brand has their hit & misses.
I’m not a big fan of Mothers, but they make a damn good tire cleaner. So good that they recommend it can even be used waterless. How many tire cleaners have you seen that say you can use it waterless on the label?
@@Samuelfish2kwhat ingredients are they using that makes them quality compared to these other tire cleaners.
We need more information if you are going to make this claim.
@@YanniObkirk Go watch Mckee’s video on the product, they explain it. I don’t claim to be a genius, but I have used the products and can confirm that what they say is true.
As far as the Mothers, it performs nearly identical as the Mckee’s which is why it deserves mention.
@@YanniObkirk This is copy/pasted straight from mckees product description:
“STOP CLEANING YOUR TIRES WITH CAUSTIC ALL PURPOSE CLEANERS! These high-octane, inexpensive cleaners actually do more harm than good. The issue with most all purpose cleaners is that they're formulated to meet a certain price point, and in order to achieve that inexpensive price point, caustic ingredients are often found in these products. These caustic detergents are harmful to you AND your tires!
You see, tires contain antiozonants, rubber conditioners, and UV absorbers that help keep the tire flexible. The wrong cleaner will actually cause the antiozonants, rubber conditioners, and UV absorbers to leach out of the tire, resulting in browning, discoloration and cracking of the tire. McKee's 37 Tire & Rubber Rejuvenator is non-caustic, non-acidic, and it will not harm your tires!
It's common knowledge among professional detailers and car care enthusiasts that a tire gel or tire shine spray will last considerably longer if the tire is properly cleaned first. By completely removing previously applied dressings and protectants, you have a clean base for the new tire shine to adhere to. This greatly extends the durability and increases the look of your tire shine of choice.
McKee's 37 Tire & Rubber Rejuvenator is safe for use on all tires. We recommend spraying the wheel with water first, just to ensure any unwanted overspray is easy to remove.
McKee's 37 Tire & Rubber Rejuvenator is the first step in prepping your tires for application of McKee's 37 Ceramic Tire Coating, an acrylic-based resin that forms a flexible, chemical-resistant coating on your tires. If you plan on coating your tires with McKee's 37 Ceramic Tire Coating, you MUST use McKee's 37 Tire & Rubber Rejuvenator first, or else the coating will not properly adhere”.
Every time he says disgusting.., I have a shot of whiskey…😮
That’s a dangerous game.
could have been a 15 minn video
you like kia ev, that's two strikes against you you'll regret both
Ok a little too much repetitive info on why the tire is brown
I’m amazed that you bought an EV and your biggest problem is dirty tyres.
I own 4 of them 😎
What does that mean? We have an e-tron and dang if it's not the sweetest thing we own out of 10 vehicles. By far sweeter to drive than my ZO6, of course in a very different way.
I am sick of videos that don’t get to the point. All kinds of banter filling time without much information. This is really simple. Use tire cleaner. Clean tires until brown gunk comes off. Put tire dressing on. All the rest of the adjectival banter is useless. Get to the point. 10 minutes of info PACKED into 31 minutes. Very annoying!
Complaining about the length of free content 🤔
To be honest though, it's sad. This is only a first world problem and I've done it myself.
Overkill
Nah
I agree…. Great work, but life is too short. Keep em clean with simple green from the get go, and use aerospace 303. Light shine, doesn’t gunk. Live life.
Disgusting!!
Isn't a lot of that brake dust?
Nice video. Thanks!