I bought the ones from amazon. With those s they come with washers to tighten the gap. I made the same mistake and then realized what the washers were for. You might want to try it before sending them back.
I purchased some of the cheaper bits off of amazon and they came with extra shims so you can tune the router bits to fit each other. I love them and I think they work great for a fraction of the price.
I’m going with your idea and using the single bit. Nobody has ever mentioned doing this! It makes perfect sense! Simpler is definitely better! Thanks you thank you thank you
On the cheap bits, you could simply shim the tongue bit between the bearing and cutter to tune these for a tight fit. Many times the cheap tools can work well with a little work, so you just need to decide if your time is worth paying more for a more precise bit, or if it's worth the savings to spend some extra time on setup.
I agree and would go with that 2nd tongue and groove you did. I'm like you I dont care for that thin point you end up with on each side after cutting the V groove. While it may be okay in some instances I think you made the right choice.
Hi Mad Nerd, I’m interested-but not experienced-in woodworking. Thank you for making this video. Others have already remarked on the differing profile making an unfair comparison but I thought your response was well-intended: you weren’t trying to compare the same profile, you were trying to solve a problem. I like that attitude and that approach. Two comments I would make, however, are: - Wearing a Rockler shirt in a video comparing Rockler tools to cheaper alternatives gives at least the impression of bias. Rockler really may be better and worth the additional expense but that shirt leads me to discount your results at least a bit (pun intended.) - You ding the cheap set for an imprecise fit and tout the Rockler as being more precise and producing a better result. Then you go on to say that it over-cut the “groove” side and removed too much material. In my mind something is either precise or it isn’t. Can’t have it both ways. Again, thank you for the comparison and for making this video. It was helpful to me.
Hi Ron, Thanks for the kind words. After reading your comment, I had to go back and watch that video because I don't own a Rockler shirt. The shirt I have on is an Xhover shirt (they make racing drones). Now in other videos I do have on a Rockler Shop Apron on, and that is because the only woodworking store close to me is Rockler. As for the bits, the Rockler and Freud bits are both very good bits. The fit on the Rockler bits are precise and do produce a better over all cut than the cheaper bits did, when comparing chip-out and surface finish when I was done. I see now that I may not have explained over-cut comment well in the video, hopefully I can type it out better. When I was talking about the over cut on the groove side of the bit. Here was the issue, if you use the bearing on that bit as a guide for the wood and you make the full 3/4" cut on the 3/4" wood. The problem is that there is no edge for the wood to ride on the bearing when you make that V cut on the full height of the wood. This cut then takes off a small amount of wood at each end point on the "V". Resulting in making the piece of wood about 1/64 to 1/32 smaller. To fix this I just set the fence as my guide and not rely on the bearing to support the wood. Thanks again, I am glad the video was helpful.
Hey Mad Nerd, sorry for my mistake on the shirt and misapprehension of your explanations. My fault, completely. And thanks so much for writing to clarify. All the best!
I have the Amazon 1/2 inch tounge and grove set and I had to adjust the bit and take one of the washers off of it and it worked really well for me I just built 20 shaker doors with it. I will say it doesn't like hard wood and seems very dull even out of the box. I will get another set but maybe spend a little more money on it
You know Jake, if mine came with the washers and I was able to adjust them, I probably would have keep them. But, at least for the ones I had, the cut was a little rougher on the purple heart than the ones that cost a little more.
Normally when we do a hardwood edge on manufactured edges we cut the hardwood slightly over sized and then use a straight cut router bit so we can blend sand the wood edge to be a perfect fit
That is true Christopher, if you check out some of my other videos, you will see that is also what I did. For this video I did make everything to the same size. I also sometimes use a card scraper to get the best fit, although that takes more time than a router straight bit.
Freud is known for their quality of carbide. I used to sell a lot of carbide equipment in an industrial supply house. There is an expression that goes "there is carbide, then carbide, then more carbide, so which one would you like?" Pricing usually reflects the quality of carbide used in the cutting tool. Also that v cutter set is particularly handy for facing plywood edges. Much easier than banding and you can use what you want for detail.
I agree with you on that Paul. In addition, with more carbide, you do save money in the long run. It will dissipate heat faster, stay sharper longer and will allow reshaping more times before having to be replaced. I always prefer wood edge over banding. Thanks for Watching.
I am fortunate to have a real good old sharpening shop near me here in Vancouver and they can dress any carbide cutters I have. Good carbide they only have to lightly kiss with a cutter so you do not lose much of the profile. I think I will get a set of those v cutters. Sure I could do it on the saw but I prefer repeatable accuracy.
And furthermore, the yellow setup is not really used for joining boards. The loose fit is intentional. It is used for f.e. slats on a garden shed or a slat fence. The loose fit allows for expansion and shrinkage. And the slats are not supposed to be glued either.
I bought very similar bits from amazon and originally was disappointed with the fit. Like yours the tongue was very loose in the groove. However it came with spare washers to adjust the space between the blades to adjust the groove. Added in the washers and they work absolutely perfect. Very tight fitting groove, had to tap them together with a hammer or use a clamp. Worked wonderful for my first set of stile and rail doors for shop cabinets. Would highly recommend once set up properly.
My personal rule is to buy high quality bits if they have mating profiles (like tongue and groove, rails and stiles) and cheap bits if it's standalone profile. Like a flush trim bit, or molding cutter.
Seems to me that with both sets you can make a thicker set of boards connect with a single pass from each bits, as opposed to your solution you need at least 3 passes for the same connection, with thicker boards that number can only go up. The cheap set can also be tuned to have a shorter tongue, maybe then the fit will be better? If I had a single connection to make I would choose the single but as well, but else I would consider going for a better set of tongue and groove bits. Never tried American bits (live in Europe myself) but Bits & Bits seems to sell pretty decent products.
MLCS do make some nice bits. I have one and it has stayed sharp for some time now. The nice thing (at least on this one) is that it has a thick piece of carbide for the edge, which means that it can be sharpen a number of times before having to be replace.
A bit is ok, but most of the expansion would happen more from end to end, not so much from side to side or thickness. The joint should not be tight, but it should not be so loose that there is movement. Glue is not a good filler. Thanks for you question Russell and for watching.
Hi Connie, sorry for the late reply, those are brass measuring bars. Each one is a different size 1/8,1/4,1/2 and so on. You can find them here: Starrett CD604R-6 Spring Tempered Steel Rule: amzn.to/2FScqGs Mr. Pen- Steel Rulers, 4 Pieces (6, 8, 12, 14 inch) Rulers: amzn.to/2HZZAID
I tried to see the result of the work even using high definition binNOculars , but unfortunately I could easily see your workshop , tiles and of course your whole body , well doNe. 😁😁
It would cost a fortune to buy bits one at a time. For my first router I bought a set from Canada's CT store at 70% off and with a lifetime guarantee. I'm sure I will buy more bits one at a time but as a starter these will do just fine. Many good reviews and a lifetime guarantee. The $20 amazon bit has an equivalent in your brands but it's $129! Got my $280 router at $100 on sale and I don't pay more for a bit than the tool cost :)
Nice! Those bits sound better than the one I got. I started out with a set that my wife gave me for Christmas, and they have worked for me for some time and are nice bits. Now I am replacing them as they wear out with a better brand and quality.
Sincere, thanks for this informative video. I am a complete newbie and I actually had the Yonico bits in my shopping cart. Phew. Hope all is well with you and your family.
You can achieve the same results with just using straight bits, I'm currently making some tongue and groove flooring out of pallet boards, my tongue bits failed so I went to the straight bit.
What brand do you recommend that holds its edge and last but won’t break me ?????? I’m a home carpenter and not a pro but will e moving towards becoming the town handyman and so I’m looking for advice 🙏🏻ty sir god bless .
Any of the name brands will work Amana Tools, Rockler, or Freud. But to be honest East Coast, I have purchase some new bits recently from Amazon and found them to work rather well. They were not the cheapest ones, but I am not sure of the name.
I would prefer to see a comparison between a set of rockler tongue and groove router bits to amazons cheap tongue and groove bits. This could potentially show a better fitment comparison. The comparison provided didn’t give me much value other than rockler v groove bits are nice.
Not sure if the cheap kit you received has them but many have spacers to adjust the tongue/groove. Would have been nice for you to attempt the simpler process on the one cheaper bit for another comparison point.
Very true Nathanael, but the kit I got did not have any spacers in it. After a number of replies about the spacer included with other kits, I may give them another try. Stay tune, that may happen in 2021.
After watching this, it is obvious that it is not a very good tool comparison and it was two completely different jointing methods. Sort of like comparing the taste of an apple to an orange. I purchase and use bits from several places and have found that Rockler bits, while good, are not neccesarily the only brands that work as well. Freud has been a good choice for me, as well as MCLS, Amana, and so on. What does make a big difference is the type of cutting edge materials and the sort of things being cut by the bit. I do a lot of CNC carvings mostly any more, but also use my router table and plunge router, etc. I must give this "comparison" a thumbs down. Rockler bias is obvious too.
I agree with you luckettg the others brand you mention are all good bits. This video actually started out with me looking for a better way to add an end cap to plywood. Sorry if it seems that there is a Rockler bias, but if you noticed I ended up using Freud bit for my cutting of the end caps.
@@MadNerdWorkshop I am remiss for not saying that your video making skills and the way you present the content are really good and I hope you will make more videos and not be discouraged by negative reviews. In the case of this particular video, a simple change of the title might be sufficient. Oh, and I am Greg Luckett. Thank you for all that you are doing.
@@luckettg Thanks for that Greg. I appreciate all comments, both positive and negative, that is how I learn. I think you are right, my title may need a bit of changing. Don't worry about me doing more videos, I like sharing what I do and I enjoy putting these videos together. Take Care.
I did not, I had the rockler bits for about 6 months before actually using them. The only way to take them back now is if they break. Thanks for watching Justice.
Sorry Pierre, I am not sure what you are referring to. I have a Portal Cable router in the table. Are you referring to the Brass set up keys I used? If you are, you can find them at this link: amzn.to/3rO3mdQ I hope that helps
Thank you for the video, I enjoyed it, rockler really is a good quality product, and you will pay much more for it. If you don't mind share the technical side of the video, as I liked the sound quality of the video, which mic was used? The video camera was also very good and focused really fast, which camera did you use? Thanks again for your efforts to share information
here are some of the video equipment I use. Camera equipment used in this video PANASONIC LUMIX GH5 4K Digital Camera: amzn.to/2SFKgTN PANASONIC LUMIX G VARIO LENS, 14-140MM, F3.5-5.6 ASPH: amzn.to/2K1dFnC Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II ASPH OIS Lens: amzn.to/2LEbZDw SmallRig GH5/GH5S Cage for Panasonic Lumix Camera: amzn.to/2YeMwTl RigLand DSLR Wooden Handle Grip (Right Side): amzn.to/2LEhrGx NICEYRIG Rosette Wooden Handle Grip (Left Side): amzn.to/32Pvu1m E-Image EG03A2 2 Stage Aluminum Tripod (Black): amzn.to/2Yff0w5 Canon EOS 7D Mark II Digital SLR Camera (Body Only): amzn.to/2LDo0td Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM Standard Zoom Lens: amzn.to/2SBsReO
very good video, my congratulations. I would like you to help me with a question: I want to know if you make or can recommend who can manufacture custom router bits according to my product draws.
Sorry Jorge, your question went to spam. I don't know any manufacturer that does that. You most likely already found someone for that. Sorry again for the late reply.
What is the point of your video? Comparing a $90 set of “V” bits to a $20 pair of tongue and groove is ridiculous that’s like comparing grapes and kumquats and then introducing another from your Pandora’s box when you could have used the grooving bit from your Chinese pair.
You know Colm54, it is hard for me to argue with you on this one. I started out looking for an easier way to put an end cap on plywood. I purchased the cheap router bits and found them to be so inferior, I just thought I would share. I guess the moral of the story is that cheap bits, even the ones that are made as a set. Sometimes don't even fit together, even though they were made for each other. Sorry for my confusion.
I was a bit fired up today and I must apologize for that however that being said you were looking for a simple solution to an ongoing problem that many of us have endured. It can be frustrating to revisit an issue that surfaces after you have completed your project so thanks for thinking it out loud so to speak. Hopefully you have been able to solve the issue without too much material loss. As you know it’s not just the irritation but also the appearance of the finished goods afterwards and refinishing so everything looks normal and as planned.
Why not show a comparison with both sets being the same style cut (expensive tongue and groove against cheap tongue and groove or expensive "V" bit against cheap "V" bit) to show the actual difference? I mean no ill intent, but this is a fair request if you want to say that expensive is actually better than cheap.
Very well-produced video. Kudos for that. However, I have to agree with some of the others that comparing $90 bits with $20 bits is an unfair comparison. After all, if they were even remotely close wouldn't that make Rockler a huge price gouger? By the way, I don't know which bits you bought, but I purchased some cheap tongue and groove bits from Amazon. I just looked up what I paid for them and it was $16.99 for the set. In fact, I just looked and they are only $14.99 today. In any case, they have been giving me pretty nice results. It could be a hit-and-miss on the quality, and I got lucky. But I have no complaints. Would a quality $90 set be better? I certainly hope so! None the less, these cheap bits are serving my purposes. But then again, I tend to build rustic furniture so it's no big deal if things aren't lined up perfectly. People are expecting a rustic style from me. So it could also depend on what you are building. If you need ultimate precision for perfect furniture then obviously spending more money on quality tools is the way to go. I won't argue with that. But if you're just putting out a large volume of rustic stuff to make a quick buck, cheap tools can be just the ticket. "Big Smile". But yeah, if I were out to build high-quality furniture I'd buy high-quality bits. That seems right.
Thanks Mystic. You may be right, perhaps I expected too much from those inexpensive bits. I think I need to get the same bit in different price ranges and compare them for the same type of cut.
I am not sure that the bit would fly apart, but I do agree about the cut. At first the cut is good, but the bits do lose their edge rather quickly. thanks for watching.
comparing apples and oranges , no matter how new or the bit maker , the end result is only going to be as good as the Operators abilities to line up the bits correctly . A bad V groove bit will still result the same compared to the tounge and groove bits . V groove is just a better way to go all around , easier to hid the errors .
@Mad Nerd Workshop Do you have the info for your router table and Fence set up? Looks like you were able to use a turn knob for micro adjust on the fence.
Yes that is the INCRA LS Positioner Super System. It is a bit pricey, but I would consider it to be one of the best router fences out there. You can do an incredible amount of stuff with it. here is a link to a video where I show more of it in action. th-cam.com/video/VDLnzEuU6-4/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.
Chris, it is actually the dust system built into the Incra Fence. I have a 4" collection hose going into the cabinet, which collect dust from the bottom opening at the bit. In addition the 4" connector has a 2" hose split off that connected to the back of the fence, where the dust is also sucked into the fence opening. It does work extremely well, and makes it nice with very little dust getting out in the shop.
Great vid. I work on the principle buy the best you can afford. I would rather save up and buy a better tool that way I do the best I can. Q.The square bar you measured your bit height with, are they engineering measures checks for verniers or just square rod? No particular reason just thought I’d ask.
Those bar are available from many difference sources. They are made for setting measuring your cuts on the router, table saw and others. There are links in this video for some you can get from Amazon. th-cam.com/video/8W1B-dkwzQc/w-d-xo.html
They are a bit pricy Dave. That is one of the reasons I always try to wait for a sale. Rockler generally has a good router sale in October, that is when I will most likely get my bits.
You get what you pay for. Who cares how much cheaper you can get something if it doesn't work? If it doesn't do what you need it to do it's not a deal at any price.
Have you used anything made by rockler? They’re products are all exceptionally high quality and they aren’t made in Asian sweatshops. You’re paying for quality and ethics.
It is a Rousseau lift, I don't think they are made anymore. I had mine for about 14-16 years now. There are many good ones out there that work as good if not better. I talk about the router table in this video: th-cam.com/video/5by-5bLd_RE/w-d-xo.html If that helps. Sorry I can't be more help for you on that.
You know Juan, I am not sure. I believe they were the Yakamoz brand. I have some Yonico brand Bowl bits and they are working good. Freud is a little pricer bits, but they are good.
Yes you can, not something I would have thought of right away, but that is another good way. I generally find that the router will be a smoother fit most of the time, when compared to a saw blade, especially when you have a two cut set up for making something like the "V" cut. However, I am sure with a little practice it can be set up for the perfect fit. Thanks Chris, now I am going to have to see what I can do on the tablesaw. Thanks Chris, for the idea and for watching.
Hi Mojo, I built that table about three years ago from scratch. But what really makes it nice, is the Incra router fence, the is one of the best add-ons I have purchased so far.
You're comparing 2 different bit shapes, which doesn't make sense to me. A tongue and groove can't be compared to a V-groove. A V-groove will ALWAYS fit as long as both edges are 45 degrees. Also, for the V-groove, you used the same material. For the tongue and groove, you use 2 different materials and you don't swap them around (put the dark with the tongue inside the white board with the groove). If you want to compare bits, compare 2 identical bits (both tongue/groove bits or both V-groove bits) from a different manufacturer and/or price range. Watching the second half of the video, you used the grey bit to make a tongue and groove yourself, you could do the same with the yellow one and compare those. Then you have 2 identical ones, one expensive and one cheap.
Yea Power, it was really me finding a way to add cap strip to my cabinets. I messes up with he title. I was just surprise at the big difference between router bit quality.
The rockler are 1/2-inch shank 1-38"D x 3/4" H x 1/2" shank. The others were 1/2 tongue and grove that made a 1/4" deep groove (that is the one I sent back). Thanks for watching.
On Yes! I am in the middle of a kitchen remodel and I am doing all the cabinet for that. I will have some more videos coming out soon. I am hoping to get some work done on the lathe tomorrow.
That is very true Sebastiano, the video started out with me looking to find a good way to add the purple heart to the end of the plywood. But when I seen the difference between the bits I had to comment on that. I need to do one comparing both premium and budget of the same type of bit shape. thanks for check it out.
simpler is bettter. why not just cut the grove in both sides and use an internal spline to hold and align. one bit, one setup, as long as you keep the faces oriented hte same way, you dont even have to measure and concentricity is gaurenteed, plus, ZERO material loss in the joint.
Hi Klinger, I guess I could have joined the edges of the hardwood, but I don't join the edges of plywood. So I decided not to join either one. But I think even with the joined edges, the cuts would have been the same once they went through the router. Thanks for the question and watching.
Rockler is overpriced...they are good bits....but they arent any better then brands that run $10-15 per bit cheaper. Asking anything over $30 for a router bit isnt done because it has some super extra ability....its done to line pockets. We need a real true testing video of bits simulating time lapse till the point of their failure....from my experience Rockler is great but not better then the other major name brands that while pricey....arent doing it just for the simple fact they ant more $$....if they offered something you could point to and say....thats why it costs $15 more then other premium bits that would at least explain it. As of now what you basically get from them is "TRUST US BRO"! Utter nonsense, and if going head to head with all the other premuim bits I would put anything down thqt they fall short of the #1 spot and a cheaper priced one would be better overall...just an opinion.
I am not going to argue with you about the price of Rockler brand stuff, I agree that the price is a bit high. That is way I always recommend buying on sale, for sure. I don't think I ever purchased anything from Rockler at full price. As for the quality, Rockler bits are very good and will hold an edge longer than the cheaper brands, but that would only apply if one is doing a lot of cutting. Which most of us don't do. But I do agree, someone is lining their pockets with a little more cash. :)
$39 for the Rockler bits? Where? Their website sells them both for $110 ($49 & $59) Nevermind, saw you corrected the price later in the video. BTW, Rockler still has raised the price 25% since this video. Too big for their britches.
VampyrumFerox Yeah, they are at the higher end. That is one of the reasons I very seldom buy anything from Rockler unless it’s on sale. In fact, I believe I bought these during the router mania sale, where all their router bits were on sale. But if you absolutely positively need it right away, they do have everything you want as a woodworker.
You're comparing the fit of a V-groove bit with the fit of a T&G bit. Duh. V groove will always be a perfect fit if the angle is the same. the only variable is the operator measurement and setup.
funny timing... i drove my porshe today and i like it better than my vw point being you are not comparing even close to price point plus different types of bits
Idk man just going to order a bunch of cheap ones. To me it always looks like the reviewer can't say the cheap one is to close to matter. Feels like they getting paid by good brand to me.
Im sure amazon has the same quality that rockler has,,,the biggest difference is the shiping and return policy,,,and amazon has rockler,,,beat,,hand down,,,,
You are absolutely right Jeff, Amazon does have some quality router bits that I am sure will be just as good as Rockler's. Amazon does have great shipping and return, especially if you have Prime. Thanks for watching.
I do agree with you on that Karl, as a rule better quality does increase the price. But, the being said, check out my video on Harbor Freight Tools Clamps. Cheapest clamps out there and they work great. Some times, the inexpensive tool can do the job.
Mad Nerd Workshop well your shirt in this vid was a dead giveaway for me 😅. I just found it refreshing to find another with similar hobbies! I’ll be sure to watch more of your woodworking vids tho now that I’ve discovered this, and I may be positively biased now. 😂😂
Yes they do, but unfortunately these particular bits did not. I am going to have to try ordering them again and see if I can get a set with those shims. Thanks for watching.
I mean , you’re really comparing cheap router bits with cheap router bits - given the number of $100 and $150+ router bits out there I don’t really understand what the premise of this video really even is
He must have used a 10hp router, I was taught never try to hog out the whole profile at one pass, had he have taken small passes I bet the cheaper bits would do just fine.
Edwin McCowan I agree with you. On any other cuts, I would have done them on a number of passes. the only issue with these bits is the set up. Especially with the V groove, once you have the right depth on one, it’s very important to have it the same on the other. Multiple cuts can create issues with those bits. As for the router it is a 1 1/2 hp. None of the bits had any problem making the cut in one pass, the only issue was the fit. Now even with smaller cut passes, the cheaper bit still would’ve fit the same. The grove bit produces a much wider cut than the tongue bit, as a result, the fit would have been the same.
Both soluutions are wrong. Not because of the bits themselfs, but because of the router. Listen to the sound. Its strugling. Imagine you have to do series of cuts like this.For this kind of job you need spindle moulder or Shaper.
ohhh, yes a Shaper would be nice, I had one when I owned my cabinet shop. But now I have a small shop, two car garage, and have to make do with the tools I have. Thanks for the idea, I think I will show this to my wife and let her know I really need a shaper :). Thanks for watching.
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I bought the ones from amazon. With those s they come with washers to tighten the gap. I made the same mistake and then realized what the washers were for. You might want to try it before sending them back.
I did look for some washers but none came with the set. If they were there, I would have tried to use them. Thanks for watching.
Did the same thing yesterday. Each washer was .020 which left me .010 play for glue
I purchased some of the cheaper bits off of amazon and they came with extra shims so you can tune the router bits to fit each other. I love them and I think they work great for a fraction of the price.
The ones I got, did not have any shims, but if they are working for you, that is great. Maybe I need to buy another set and try them out again.
Shoot the link please
@@guitarman_3693 bits-n-bit they have good ones also I think I did their name right?
@@jakefryberger3177 I think it is Bits & Bits actually
@@MadNerdWorkshop There are so many brands...he didn't say which ones he got, so you could order till the cows come home and not get a good one!
I’m going with your idea and using the single bit. Nobody has ever mentioned doing this! It makes perfect sense!
Simpler is definitely better! Thanks you thank you thank you
I am glad it was helpful and thank you for watching.
I've been using the same harbor freight bits for 5 years. None have broken and they're still sharp.
Nice, I will have to check them out. Thanks Kevin.
So far I agree. I bought a simple set from HF just to play around with before investing any real money and was quite surprised.
On the cheap bits, you could simply shim the tongue bit between the bearing and cutter to tune these for a tight fit. Many times the cheap tools can work well with a little work, so you just need to decide if your time is worth paying more for a more precise bit, or if it's worth the savings to spend some extra time on setup.
I agree with that. On the bits I had, they did not come with shims, so I would have had to make them up.
I did this research a year ago. Bought the Freud bit. It cost about $100 CAD but it's perfect
They are good bits
I agree and would go with that 2nd tongue and groove you did. I'm like you I dont care for that thin point you end up with on each side after cutting the V groove. While it may be okay in some instances I think you made the right choice.
John Norris thanks 😊
Hi Mad Nerd, I’m interested-but not experienced-in woodworking. Thank you for making this video.
Others have already remarked on the differing profile making an unfair comparison but I thought your response was well-intended: you weren’t trying to compare the same profile, you were trying to solve a problem. I like that attitude and that approach.
Two comments I would make, however, are:
- Wearing a Rockler shirt in a video comparing Rockler tools to cheaper alternatives gives at least the impression of bias. Rockler really may be better and worth the additional expense but that shirt leads me to discount your results at least a bit (pun intended.)
- You ding the cheap set for an imprecise fit and tout the Rockler as being more precise and producing a better result. Then you go on to say that it over-cut the “groove” side and removed too much material. In my mind something is either precise or it isn’t. Can’t have it both ways.
Again, thank you for the comparison and for making this video. It was helpful to me.
Hi Ron, Thanks for the kind words. After reading your comment, I had to go back and watch that video because I don't own a Rockler shirt. The shirt I have on is an Xhover shirt (they make racing drones). Now in other videos I do have on a Rockler Shop Apron on, and that is because the only woodworking store close to me is Rockler. As for the bits, the Rockler and Freud bits are both very good bits. The fit on the Rockler bits are precise and do produce a better over all cut than the cheaper bits did, when comparing chip-out and surface finish when I was done.
I see now that I may not have explained over-cut comment well in the video, hopefully I can type it out better. When I was talking about the over cut on the groove side of the bit. Here was the issue, if you use the bearing on that bit as a guide for the wood and you make the full 3/4" cut on the 3/4" wood. The problem is that there is no edge for the wood to ride on the bearing when you make that V cut on the full height of the wood. This cut then takes off a small amount of wood at each end point on the "V". Resulting in making the piece of wood about 1/64 to 1/32 smaller. To fix this I just set the fence as my guide and not rely on the bearing to support the wood.
Thanks again, I am glad the video was helpful.
Hey Mad Nerd, sorry for my mistake on the shirt and misapprehension of your explanations. My fault, completely. And thanks so much for writing to clarify. All the best!
Have a good one Ron
I have the Amazon 1/2 inch tounge and grove set and I had to adjust the bit and take one of the washers off of it and it worked really well for me I just built 20 shaker doors with it. I will say it doesn't like hard wood and seems very dull even out of the box. I will get another set but maybe spend a little more money on it
You know Jake, if mine came with the washers and I was able to adjust them, I probably would have keep them. But, at least for the ones I had, the cut was a little rougher on the purple heart than the ones that cost a little more.
@@MadNerdWorkshop i ran my hickory twice cause it wasn't the cleanest cut out there and seemed dull compared to my other bits.
The comparing should have been done with same type of cutting bits then the results would have shown.
This is true Isac, I think I need to do a proper comparison in the future.
I agree no point in comparing two different joints is there
it would show a better results I agree but the video is about cheap and fine router bits ...
A wood worker into FPV, loving that!
Yes, and I was the editor of Rotor Drone Magazine for 10 years.
Normally when we do a hardwood edge on manufactured edges we cut the hardwood slightly over sized and then use a straight cut router bit so we can blend sand the wood edge to be a perfect fit
That is true Christopher, if you check out some of my other videos, you will see that is also what I did. For this video I did make everything to the same size. I also sometimes use a card scraper to get the best fit, although that takes more time than a router straight bit.
@@MadNerdWorkshop i can see the structural benefits for making a groove or v-cut
Freud is known for their quality of carbide. I used to sell a lot of carbide equipment in an industrial supply house. There is an expression that goes "there is carbide, then carbide, then more carbide, so which one would you like?" Pricing usually reflects the quality of carbide used in the cutting tool. Also that v cutter set is particularly handy for facing plywood edges. Much easier than banding and you can use what you want for detail.
I agree with you on that Paul. In addition, with more carbide, you do save money in the long run. It will dissipate heat faster, stay sharper longer and will allow reshaping more times before having to be replaced. I always prefer wood edge over banding. Thanks for Watching.
I am fortunate to have a real good old sharpening shop near me here in Vancouver and they can dress any carbide cutters I have. Good carbide they only have to lightly kiss with a cutter so you do not lose much of the profile. I think I will get a set of those v cutters. Sure I could do it on the saw but I prefer repeatable accuracy.
And furthermore, the yellow setup is not really used for joining boards. The loose fit is intentional. It is used for f.e. slats on a garden shed or a slat fence. The loose fit allows for expansion and shrinkage. And the slats are not supposed to be glued either.
Good point.
I bought very similar bits from amazon and originally was disappointed with the fit. Like yours the tongue was very loose in the groove. However it came with spare washers to adjust the space between the blades to adjust the groove. Added in the washers and they work absolutely perfect. Very tight fitting groove, had to tap them together with a hammer or use a clamp. Worked wonderful for my first set of stile and rail doors for shop cabinets. Would highly recommend once set up properly.
The ones I purchased did not have any extra washers to use for adjusting them. But, that could have helped the fit for sure.
Over here in the UK, the cheapest decent set is at least 5 times the price of the Amazon special and a very good set is nearly 10 times the price.
WOW, That is a bit tough. I bet you guys sharping them until there is not carbide left.
My personal rule is to buy high quality bits if they have mating profiles (like tongue and groove, rails and stiles) and cheap bits if it's standalone profile. Like a flush trim bit, or molding cutter.
J.R. Millstone I would agree with that rule
Seems to me that with both sets you can make a thicker set of boards connect with a single pass from each bits, as opposed to your solution you need at least 3 passes for the same connection, with thicker boards that number can only go up. The cheap set can also be tuned to have a shorter tongue, maybe then the fit will be better? If I had a single connection to make I would choose the single but as well, but else I would consider going for a better set of tongue and groove bits. Never tried American bits (live in Europe myself) but Bits & Bits seems to sell pretty decent products.
That is a good point Ferry, I have settled on using a tongue and grove for the end caps, maybe I need to try another set to make my job much easier.
MLCS has the V set, which includes a flush trim bit (3 bits in the set) for $44.95. I have not had any complaint with MLCS quality.
MLCS do make some nice bits. I have one and it has stayed sharp for some time now. The nice thing (at least on this one) is that it has a thick piece of carbide for the edge, which means that it can be sharpen a number of times before having to be replace.
Beautiful filming of router taking off the wood ...
Thank you very much and thanks for watching.
I am not sure but wouldn’t a T&G bit leave a bit of room for expansion and contraction? Thanks for the video BTW.
A bit is ok, but most of the expansion would happen more from end to end, not so much from side to side or thickness. The joint should not be tight, but it should not be so loose that there is movement. Glue is not a good filler. Thanks for you question Russell and for watching.
What was the brass piece you was using? Loved the demo. I don't know anything about working with wood but I want to give it a try.
Hi Connie, sorry for the late reply, those are brass measuring bars. Each one is a different size 1/8,1/4,1/2 and so on. You can find them here:
Starrett CD604R-6 Spring Tempered Steel Rule: amzn.to/2FScqGs
Mr. Pen- Steel Rulers, 4 Pieces (6, 8, 12, 14 inch) Rulers: amzn.to/2HZZAID
I tried to see the result of the work even using high definition binNOculars , but unfortunately I could easily see your workshop , tiles and of course your whole body , well doNe. 😁😁
Agreed, I need to show more close up. I have the camera equipment to do that now. Thanks for watching, hopefully it will get better.
It would cost a fortune to buy bits one at a time. For my first router I bought a set from Canada's CT store at 70% off and with a lifetime guarantee. I'm sure I will buy more bits one at a time but as a starter these will do just fine. Many good reviews and a lifetime guarantee. The $20 amazon bit has an equivalent in your brands but it's $129! Got my $280 router at $100 on sale and I don't pay more for a bit than the tool cost :)
Nice! Those bits sound better than the one I got. I started out with a set that my wife gave me for Christmas, and they have worked for me for some time and are nice bits. Now I am replacing them as they wear out with a better brand and quality.
Sincere, thanks for this informative video. I am a complete newbie and I actually had the Yonico bits in my shopping cart. Phew. Hope all is well with you and your family.
I am glad it was helpful! All is well here, you stay safe out there and thanks for watching.
You can achieve the same results with just using straight bits, I'm currently making some tongue and groove flooring out of pallet boards, my tongue bits failed so I went to the straight bit.
That is true Bruce, and I would think you get a clean cut on them.
It takes forever though.
I sent for a speed control so I can use a groove bit, I'm only grooving pine, for flooring.
What brand do you recommend that holds its edge and last but won’t break me ?????? I’m a home carpenter and not a pro but will e moving towards becoming the town handyman and so I’m looking for advice 🙏🏻ty sir god bless .
Any of the name brands will work Amana Tools, Rockler, or Freud. But to be honest East Coast, I have purchase some new bits recently from Amazon and found them to work rather well. They were not the cheapest ones, but I am not sure of the name.
I would prefer to see a comparison between a set of rockler tongue and groove router bits to amazons cheap tongue and groove bits. This could potentially show a better fitment comparison. The comparison provided didn’t give me much value other than rockler v groove bits are nice.
That is true Sean, I need to do a proper review. Thanks for watching.
Love to see the Xhover shirt!
XHover rocks! Thanks for watching.
Appreciate your complete review of each type product
My pleasure 😊 thanks for watching
Not sure if the cheap kit you received has them but many have spacers to adjust the tongue/groove. Would have been nice for you to attempt the simpler process on the one cheaper bit for another comparison point.
Very true Nathanael, but the kit I got did not have any spacers in it. After a number of replies about the spacer included with other kits, I may give them another try. Stay tune, that may happen in 2021.
After watching this, it is obvious that it is not a very good tool comparison and it was two completely different jointing methods. Sort of like comparing the taste of an apple to an orange. I purchase and use bits from several places and have found that Rockler bits, while good, are not neccesarily the only brands that work as well. Freud has been a good choice for me, as well as MCLS, Amana, and so on. What does make a big difference is the type of cutting edge materials and the sort of things being cut by the bit. I do a lot of CNC carvings mostly any more, but also use my router table and plunge router, etc. I must give this "comparison" a thumbs down. Rockler bias is obvious too.
I agree with you luckettg the others brand you mention are all good bits. This video actually started out with me looking for a better way to add an end cap to plywood. Sorry if it seems that there is a Rockler bias, but if you noticed I ended up using Freud bit for my cutting of the end caps.
@@MadNerdWorkshop I am remiss for not saying that your video making skills and the way you present the content are really good and I hope you will make more videos and not be discouraged by negative reviews. In the case of this particular video, a simple change of the title might be sufficient. Oh, and I am Greg Luckett. Thank you for all that you are doing.
@@luckettg Thanks for that Greg. I appreciate all comments, both positive and negative, that is how I learn. I think you are right, my title may need a bit of changing. Don't worry about me doing more videos, I like sharing what I do and I enjoy putting these videos together. Take Care.
Hope you sent that rockler set back too, fantastic comparison 👍
I did not, I had the rockler bits for about 6 months before actually using them. The only way to take them back now is if they break. Thanks for watching Justice.
@@MadNerdWorkshop fair enough call, glad to see your older bits did the near perfect job for you though, well done 👍
Where can i buy the extended hex key for Bosch router 1617 EVS precise adjustment like the you have in your video
Sorry Pierre, I am not sure what you are referring to. I have a Portal Cable router in the table. Are you referring to the Brass set up keys I used? If you are, you can find them at this link: amzn.to/3rO3mdQ
I hope that helps
Thank you for the video, I enjoyed it, rockler really is a good quality product, and you will pay much more for it.
If you don't mind share the technical side of the video, as I liked the sound quality of the video, which mic was used? The video camera was also very good and focused really fast, which camera did you use?
Thanks again for your efforts to share information
here are some of the video equipment I use.
Camera equipment used in this video
PANASONIC LUMIX GH5 4K Digital Camera: amzn.to/2SFKgTN
PANASONIC LUMIX G VARIO LENS, 14-140MM, F3.5-5.6 ASPH: amzn.to/2K1dFnC
Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II ASPH OIS Lens: amzn.to/2LEbZDw
SmallRig GH5/GH5S Cage for Panasonic Lumix Camera: amzn.to/2YeMwTl
RigLand DSLR Wooden Handle Grip (Right Side): amzn.to/2LEhrGx
NICEYRIG Rosette Wooden Handle Grip (Left Side): amzn.to/32Pvu1m
E-Image EG03A2 2 Stage Aluminum Tripod (Black): amzn.to/2Yff0w5
Canon EOS 7D Mark II Digital SLR Camera (Body Only): amzn.to/2LDo0td
Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM Standard Zoom Lens: amzn.to/2SBsReO
Thank you for your time. Alf
Thanks for watching
Where did you buy that fence and what brand it is it will it work with Dewalt?
It is the Incra WonderFence and it will work with any brand (you may need to adapt a little.
very good video, my congratulations.
I would like you to help me with a question:
I want to know if you make or can recommend who can manufacture custom router bits according to my product draws.
Sorry Jorge, your question went to spam. I don't know any manufacturer that does that. You most likely already found someone for that. Sorry again for the late reply.
What is the point of your video? Comparing a $90 set of “V” bits to a $20 pair of tongue and groove is ridiculous that’s like comparing grapes and kumquats and then introducing another from your Pandora’s box when you could have used the grooving bit from your Chinese pair.
You know Colm54, it is hard for me to argue with you on this one. I started out looking for an easier way to put an end cap on plywood. I purchased the cheap router bits and found them to be so inferior, I just thought I would share. I guess the moral of the story is that cheap bits, even the ones that are made as a set. Sometimes don't even fit together, even though they were made for each other. Sorry for my confusion.
I was a bit fired up today and I must apologize for that however that being said you were looking for a simple solution to an ongoing problem that many of us have endured. It can be frustrating to revisit an issue that surfaces after you have completed your project so thanks for thinking it out loud so to speak. Hopefully you have been able to solve the issue without too much material loss. As you know it’s not just the irritation but also the appearance of the finished goods afterwards and refinishing so everything looks normal and as planned.
@@colm54 Out of curiosity, is the tongue and groove set supposed to leave room, either for glue or to allow for wood movement?
@@anthonymangini7986 same thoughts i had.
Why not show a comparison with both sets being the same style cut (expensive tongue and groove against cheap tongue and groove or expensive "V" bit against cheap "V" bit) to show the actual difference? I mean no ill intent, but this is a fair request if you want to say that expensive is actually better than cheap.
Very well-produced video. Kudos for that. However, I have to agree with some of the others that comparing $90 bits with $20 bits is an unfair comparison. After all, if they were even remotely close wouldn't that make Rockler a huge price gouger? By the way, I don't know which bits you bought, but I purchased some cheap tongue and groove bits from Amazon. I just looked up what I paid for them and it was $16.99 for the set. In fact, I just looked and they are only $14.99 today. In any case, they have been giving me pretty nice results. It could be a hit-and-miss on the quality, and I got lucky. But I have no complaints. Would a quality $90 set be better? I certainly hope so! None the less, these cheap bits are serving my purposes. But then again, I tend to build rustic furniture so it's no big deal if things aren't lined up perfectly. People are expecting a rustic style from me. So it could also depend on what you are building. If you need ultimate precision for perfect furniture then obviously spending more money on quality tools is the way to go. I won't argue with that. But if you're just putting out a large volume of rustic stuff to make a quick buck, cheap tools can be just the ticket. "Big Smile". But yeah, if I were out to build high-quality furniture I'd buy high-quality bits. That seems right.
Thanks Mystic. You may be right, perhaps I expected too much from those inexpensive bits. I think I need to get the same bit in different price ranges and compare them for the same type of cut.
NICE bit of kit you have and a good video but the background music is very distracting! I don't really think you need it.
I agree, and I have been taking it off of the newer videos.
I've not had to bad of luck with the cuts with the cheap ones, but I'm always afraid of the quality of steel they use afraid of flying apart.
I am not sure that the bit would fly apart, but I do agree about the cut. At first the cut is good, but the bits do lose their edge rather quickly. thanks for watching.
comparing apples and oranges , no matter how new or the bit maker , the end result is only going to be as good as the Operators abilities to line up the bits correctly . A bad V groove bit will still result the same compared to the tounge and groove bits . V groove is just a better way to go all around , easier to hid the errors .
A V-grove does help to hid errors, that is true. One of the reasons I own one :) Thanks for Watching.
@@MadNerdWorkshop No problem , thank you for doing your videos .
1/4 key stock that’s an awesome idea
Thanks
Aren't they two different profiles? Might want to use scrap pieces to figure out the height.
That is a good point. Thanks Jody and thanks for watching.
Thank you for posting this video!!!
Thanks for Watching
@Mad Nerd Workshop Do you have the info for your router table and Fence set up? Looks like you were able to use a turn knob for micro adjust on the fence.
Yes that is the INCRA LS Positioner Super System. It is a bit pricey, but I would consider it to be one of the best router fences out there. You can do an incredible amount of stuff with it. here is a link to a video where I show more of it in action. th-cam.com/video/VDLnzEuU6-4/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.
I am interested in the dust collection on your router table. I noticed it worked great. Can you tell me what it is? Thanks for the video.
Chris, it is actually the dust system built into the Incra Fence. I have a 4" collection hose going into the cabinet, which collect dust from the bottom opening at the bit. In addition the 4" connector has a 2" hose split off that connected to the back of the fence, where the dust is also sucked into the fence opening. It does work extremely well, and makes it nice with very little dust getting out in the shop.
Mad Nerd Workshop Thanks for the response. Just starting to learn about dust collection. Hopefully I’ll get a good one stop in the near future.
Great vid. I work on the principle buy the best you can afford. I would rather save up and buy a better tool that way I do the best I can.
Q.The square bar you measured your bit height with, are they engineering measures checks for verniers or just square rod? No particular reason just thought I’d ask.
Those bar are available from many difference sources. They are made for setting measuring your cuts on the router, table saw and others. There are links in this video for some you can get from Amazon. th-cam.com/video/8W1B-dkwzQc/w-d-xo.html
That's a good principle, but spending more does not inherently mean getting better quality.
No reason Rockler should cost that much. Can you say price gouging ?.
.
They are a bit pricy Dave. That is one of the reasons I always try to wait for a sale. Rockler generally has a good router sale in October, that is when I will most likely get my bits.
Yes, "price gouging". How's that Rockler?
You get what you pay for. Who cares how much cheaper you can get something if it doesn't work? If it doesn't do what you need it to do it's not a deal at any price.
They're not alone. Most of the big name brands charge in that range for specialty bits and matched sets.
Have you used anything made by rockler? They’re products are all exceptionally high quality and they aren’t made in Asian sweatshops. You’re paying for quality and ethics.
What router lift are you using?
It is a Rousseau lift, I don't think they are made anymore. I had mine for about 14-16 years now. There are many good ones out there that work as good if not better. I talk about the router table in this video: th-cam.com/video/5by-5bLd_RE/w-d-xo.html If that helps. Sorry I can't be more help for you on that.
Hi Mad Do you have a video showing bit cable to do slotting beside
CNC Spoilboard Surfacing
Sorry artvisionman, at this time I do not have any CNC equipment.
@Mad Nerd Workshop...May I ask what brand those yellow router bits were? I’m currently shopping for router bits and I want to get a good brand...
You know Juan, I am not sure. I believe they were the Yakamoz brand. I have some Yonico brand Bowl bits and they are working good. Freud is a little pricer bits, but they are good.
Mad Nerd Workshop...Cool, thanks for the info bud..
Love it
Thanks
More great information Thanks again, just got a bosh plunge router (MRC23EVSK 2.3 HP) Cant wait to try out your great tips. FBWW
That is a great Router, You will enjoy it. Thanks FBWW
You know you could easily make those v joints on the tablesaw and achieve the same results right?
Yes you can, not something I would have thought of right away, but that is another good way. I generally find that the router will be a smoother fit most of the time, when compared to a saw blade, especially when you have a two cut set up for making something like the "V" cut. However, I am sure with a little practice it can be set up for the perfect fit. Thanks Chris, now I am going to have to see what I can do on the tablesaw. Thanks Chris, for the idea and for watching.
Mad Nerd Workshop Needless to say a tongue and groove with the saw would be even easier!
Yes it would.
The cuts don’t really need to be perfect, since you’ll never see the tool marks once it’s glued up. Happy cutting
@@dennisthepeasent220 I would agree with that.
where can we buy that kind of router bits, i want to buy
All of the links to the bits are right below the video (Just click the down arrow or show more). Thanks for watching.
Hi Mad Nerd, May I ask where do you buy the wood push block at the 3:02 ?? The orange colour one :D
Hi Nurul it is the Bench Dog Push Block, I really like that one. You can find it here: amzn.to/33BJ1ut
@@MadNerdWorkshop Hi, thank you so much!
Great video, thank you.
Thanks
Glue would help with the gap and he was "eyeballing" the t&g cutter heights.
Maybe, but I don't like to use glue to fill gaps. The best joint is one that fits well.
Hello Mad, what kind of router table are you using? Looks like a nice setup.
Hi Mojo, I built that table about three years ago from scratch. But what really makes it nice, is the Incra router fence, the is one of the best add-ons I have purchased so far.
You're comparing 2 different bit shapes, which doesn't make sense to me. A tongue and groove can't be compared to a V-groove. A V-groove will ALWAYS fit as long as both edges are 45 degrees. Also, for the V-groove, you used the same material. For the tongue and groove, you use 2 different materials and you don't swap them around (put the dark with the tongue inside the white board with the groove). If you want to compare bits, compare 2 identical bits (both tongue/groove bits or both V-groove bits) from a different manufacturer and/or price range. Watching the second half of the video, you used the grey bit to make a tongue and groove yourself, you could do the same with the yellow one and compare those. Then you have 2 identical ones, one expensive and one cheap.
Yea Power, it was really me finding a way to add cap strip to my cabinets. I messes up with he title. I was just surprise at the big difference between router bit quality.
Awesome info sir thank you
Thanks for watching Alfred
Bom dia, qual a especificação destes bits.....grato...Roberto...Brasil
The rockler are 1/2-inch shank 1-38"D x 3/4" H x 1/2" shank. The others were 1/2 tongue and grove that made a 1/4" deep groove (that is the one I sent back). Thanks for watching.
I noticed you're not using the Rockler router cabinet you made. Were those videos just Rockler commercials?
No Richard, that is the router table I made. No Rockler commercials. You’ll notice that the router bit I settled on was a Freud bit
I know you are now doing board games, are you continuing with wood working?
On Yes! I am in the middle of a kitchen remodel and I am doing all the cabinet for that. I will have some more videos coming out soon. I am hoping to get some work done on the lathe tomorrow.
@@MadNerdWorkshop do you have any plans to build a gaming table?
No matter what. The v shape bit will fit better cause has a v shape .make adjustments to the cheapest please
The v-shape does make it easier.
A more honest comparison would be to use the same bit shape for both premium and budget.
That is very true Sebastiano, the video started out with me looking to find a good way to add the purple heart to the end of the plywood. But when I seen the difference between the bits I had to comment on that. I need to do one comparing both premium and budget of the same type of bit shape. thanks for check it out.
Great!!! Great!!! Great!!!
Thank you Mark, and thanks for watching
I have the yellow bits, and had no pronblems.
Yea, I think I am going to have to retry them again. Just to see if maybe I just got a lemon.
Good information
Thanks and thanks for watching.
I picked up the cheap one to mess around with.
Let me know how you like them.
simpler is bettter.
why not just cut the grove in both sides and use an internal spline to hold and align. one bit, one setup, as long as you keep the faces oriented hte same way, you dont even have to measure and concentricity is gaurenteed, plus, ZERO material loss in the joint.
You know deth502, that may seem easier. Thanks
why didn't you use a jointer on the edges first
Hi Klinger, I guess I could have joined the edges of the hardwood, but I don't join the edges of plywood. So I decided not to join either one. But I think even with the joined edges, the cuts would have been the same once they went through the router. Thanks for the question and watching.
thank you
thanks
Excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
I guess Made in USA always has an edge.... . Rolex watches were not made in USA but they work just fine.
I agree with that. There are some nice imports out there, the better ones do cost a little more.
Rockler is overpriced...they are good bits....but they arent any better then brands that run $10-15 per bit cheaper.
Asking anything over $30 for a router bit isnt done because it has some super extra ability....its done to line pockets.
We need a real true testing video of bits simulating time lapse till the point of their failure....from my experience Rockler is great but not better then the other major name brands that while pricey....arent doing it just for the simple fact they ant more $$....if they offered something you could point to and say....thats why it costs $15 more then other premium bits that would at least explain it.
As of now what you basically get from them is "TRUST US BRO"!
Utter nonsense, and if going head to head with all the other premuim bits I would put anything down thqt they fall short of the #1 spot and a cheaper priced one would be better overall...just an opinion.
I am not going to argue with you about the price of Rockler brand stuff, I agree that the price is a bit high. That is way I always recommend buying on sale, for sure. I don't think I ever purchased anything from Rockler at full price. As for the quality, Rockler bits are very good and will hold an edge longer than the cheaper brands, but that would only apply if one is doing a lot of cutting. Which most of us don't do. But I do agree, someone is lining their pockets with a little more cash. :)
Or. Plane all planks to thickness and just rout a slot and spline it. Problem solved. Best solution if you need an instant flat top, if you ask me.
That will work, Thanks Werner and thanks for watching.
$39 for the Rockler bits? Where? Their website sells them both for $110 ($49 & $59)
Nevermind, saw you corrected the price later in the video. BTW, Rockler still has raised the price 25% since this video. Too big for their britches.
VampyrumFerox Yeah, they are at the higher end. That is one of the reasons I very seldom buy anything from Rockler unless it’s on sale. In fact, I believe I bought these during the router mania sale, where all their router bits were on sale. But if you absolutely positively need it right away, they do have everything you want as a woodworker.
You're comparing the fit of a V-groove bit with the fit of a T&G bit. Duh. V groove will always be a perfect fit if the angle is the same. the only variable is the operator measurement and setup.
that is true. I was actually trying to find the best way to add the hardwood endcaps to the plywood.
funny timing... i drove my porshe today and i like it better than my vw
point being you are not comparing even close to price point
plus different types of bits
Yea, not my best compare, it started out as seeing what bit would work best for my endcaps, the it went in a different direction.
We sell those yellow router bit in China. we are the factory and make those woodworks tools. it's cheap.
i would like to provide u . sir
What would you like to provide?
Music volume too high for the tone of your voice. 👍
Yes it is, I have tried to remedy that problem in later videos. Thanks for watching.
...this review sponsored by Rockler. LOL
I wish, it would be a lot cheaper, that's for sure. Thanks for Watching T. CloCK
The XHover shirt is cool
Bryan died FPV yes it is, Daniel is a good friend and he makes a nice drone.
Hi Nerd, could you give me a link to a router table insert plate?
Hi Dean, here is the link to the Router table insert: amzn.to/3962k0P
Idk man just going to order a bunch of cheap ones. To me it always looks like the reviewer can't say the cheap one is to close to matter. Feels like they getting paid by good brand to me.
If you know how I can get sponsored, let me know :) Some cheap stuff I do use (See Harbor Freight's Clamps video). thanks for watching.
Im sure amazon has the same quality that rockler has,,,the biggest difference is the shiping and return policy,,,and amazon has rockler,,,beat,,hand down,,,,
You are absolutely right Jeff, Amazon does have some quality router bits that I am sure will be just as good as Rockler's. Amazon does have great shipping and return, especially if you have Prime. Thanks for watching.
The most expensive tools Aren’t always better.
I do agree with you on that Karl, as a rule better quality does increase the price. But, the being said, check out my video on Harbor Freight Tools Clamps. Cheapest clamps out there and they work great. Some times, the inexpensive tool can do the job.
So you also fly FPV and woodwork. nice...
CopperTOP/Dave yes I do Dave, I just need to stay busy. But to be honest, I’m way better at woodworking than I am at FPV flying😎
Mad Nerd Workshop well your shirt in this vid was a dead giveaway for me 😅. I just found it refreshing to find another with similar hobbies! I’ll be sure to watch more of your woodworking vids tho now that I’ve discovered this, and I may be positively biased now. 😂😂
most of the tongue and grove have shims to fine fit the tongue thickness
Yes they do, but unfortunately these particular bits did not. I am going to have to try ordering them again and see if I can get a set with those shims. Thanks for watching.
I mean , you’re really comparing cheap router bits with cheap router bits - given the number of $100 and $150+ router bits out there I don’t really understand what the premise of this video really even is
It started out as one thing and quickly diverted to another, sorry for my confusion. But thanks for watching. Take care.
Why wouldn't you compare the same style bits. Not a good comparison.
I agree Diego, I need to do a better one.
He must have used a 10hp router, I was taught never try to hog out the whole profile at one pass, had he have taken small passes I bet the cheaper bits would do just fine.
Edwin McCowan I agree with you. On any other cuts, I would have done them on a number of passes. the only issue with these bits is the set up. Especially with the V groove, once you have the right depth on one, it’s very important to have it the same on the other. Multiple cuts can create issues with those bits. As for the router it is a 1 1/2 hp. None of the bits had any problem making the cut in one pass, the only issue was the fit. Now even with smaller cut passes, the cheaper bit still would’ve fit the same. The grove bit produces a much wider cut than the tongue bit, as a result, the fit would have been the same.
You're comparing apples and oranges. If you want to not waist wood just use a spline joint.
I am thinking about doing that Ron, thanks for watching.
That’s not a fair comparison considering the bits are different profiles lol
True, Pharaoh, I will try to do another one with the same bits.
Both soluutions are wrong. Not because of the bits themselfs, but because of the router. Listen to the sound. Its strugling.
Imagine you have to do series of cuts like this.For this kind of job you need spindle moulder or Shaper.
ohhh, yes a Shaper would be nice, I had one when I owned my cabinet shop. But now I have a small shop, two car garage, and have to make do with the tools I have. Thanks for the idea, I think I will show this to my wife and let her know I really need a shaper :). Thanks for watching.
I would have watched it all, if it wasn't for the annoying music.
Sorry about that, I did fix that on my later videos. (I was still new at filming when I did this one, not realizing how loud the sound was)
@@MadNerdWorkshop
I appreciate your reply.
You did all that explanation after you did the cuts but no close up to see what you was talking about..
That is a good point Victor, I will have to incorporate that in all of my future videos. Thanks for watching.
@@MadNerdWorkshop
People like yourself is what makes channels like yours worth watching..
@@victorconcepcion9678 Thank you.