You say "I've got a lot of them [routers]" I have 2 and I have only used a router 15 times in my life! I've always heard that you are supposed to bottom out the bit, then pull it 1/8" or so. Is there a reason you dont? Was that an old fashioned idea that was made null by modern router precision?
As someone that has slowly been transitioning myself from fumbling through remodeling projects on the fixer-upper house we bought a couple of years ago to more advanced woodworking over the past year for both more complicated home projects and as a hobby - videos like this have been SO essential. This makers/woodworking community on TH-cam has made learning what I'm doing much less intimidating than it could be. The videos are not patronizing and it lets us learn at our own pace. This channel in particular has been a hell of a resource for me. Thank you and keep up the great work!!
So other than finding JKM really entertaining and his advice absolutely sound, for the 6th time, since i subscribed to this channel, one of your video's topics aligns EXACTLY to what I'm hyper focused on in building my own skill sets and abilities. I LITERALLY told a friend of mine last week that the next thing i need to seriously start looking into is getting my router game on point, but that I was scared to pull the trigger because i know ZERO about them! Once again, JKM comes to the rescue! I'm constantly impressed by the way you rock this stuff out! Thank you.....again! Side note: I'm SUPER excited because I JUST found out that an multi-part sculptural piece that I've been helping a friend build is going to be shown as an installation at the United Nations for a NFP in NYC! Super proud!
I'm used to larger, corded routers th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.
Thank you so much. This is the best basic router video I have seen. I have the Kreg router table and the dewalt’s router that you recommended in that table with the Kreg lift ((300$) and I agree, the lifts are all basically the same. Mine works great. I have a palm router but quickly realized I need a third router for bigger stuff not going to my table. I have been over thinking it but the truth is (after watching your video) I need to buy another dewalt. Great stuff my friend, thank you.
I recently purchased the Bosch MCR32EVSK and it has the built in ability to be adjusted from the both sides; top and bottom. It is a beast for a medium power router and I love the soft start on it. The plunge lever works great and seems robust and the built in trigger in the handle is great. I was initially intimidated by its weight compared to my old, old Porter Cable. My biggest complaint are the plastic dust collection parts (sold separately) they feel cheap and flimsy. My first use was with guide bushings. I picked up the Bosch RA1129 Template Guide Adapter which included the insert for standard, screw on, guide bushings and it worked like a charm and it is tooless. Like I said, dust collection works great but installing the plastic pieces is a real pain.
I love that you include so many links to the products you recommend. It isn't just the 15% discount, although that is nice indeed. It is the recommendation from a pro like you that allows me to feel comfortable purchasing these products, knowing I'm going to be getting a product that is great quality and very useful in my shop. Thanks So much!
Ok so I’m venturing into the deep waters of routers. I’m so glad I stumbled and subscribed to your channel . This video helped me TREMENDOUSLY !!!! I have a large scope of all kinds of power tool from various drills to planer jointers and saws. My point being I’m fortunate ( to have a WONDERFUL BEAUTIFUL WIFE that buys everything IF SHE SEES IT AND THINKS ID LIKE IT ) in case she’s reading this guys ... but the one thing I do not have because know nothing about it is the router. I’ve used a table router in wood shop in school like 35-40 years ago but that’s it.. so after viewing your video I’m going with the DeWalt and whatever accessories it has. Now my question is ( unless you have a video send a link ) WHEN WOULD YOU USE A TABLE ROUTER VS USING FREEHAND ? I am going to start watching YOUR videos and learn this tool to its fullest abilities. I REALLY want to master this tool . She’s ALREADY printing out projects for me to build that require this tool and stacking them on my nite stand 😂😂 and also require pocket jigs. Lol. Yeah she bought that machine now also. Not that complicated even tho it’s big. NOTE: yes I am very good with woodworking and very familiar with all power tools and joints and building etc. just about anything , just not this tool. Always seemed kind of complicated. That’s all... thank you .
The Big Triton TRA001 is almost a no brainer for fitting to a table, because like you said, it is all you need. Ours is fitted to a Kreg table and there were clear marks in the top plate to drill for fitting. It worked out way way cheaper than getting a spindle motor and lift and you have this uber powerful motor that is a pleasure to use. There are some gotchas to be fair. The Triton needs to be wound all the way up to engage the spindle lock for changing bits. So to ensure that is not engaged with the motor running there is an interlock controlled by a plastic cover that slides back to reveal the on/off switch. Of the dozen or so people who use ours (Blenheim Menz Shed NZ) some do seem to struggle to find that switch and cover to start with, but if you push back the cover with your middle finger, you can operate the rocker switch with your index finger. Once turned on we use a remote on/off switch. NOTE: If you are outside the USA and have 240V mains then the Kreg on/off switch will not handle the current safely. Another downside is that the thread for adjusting the height is 14tpi which is not particularly useful for metric. I have a disk calibrated for millimetres that I laminated, and fitted to the above table winder. Email if you'd like the file trevor.dennis@xtra.co.nz One last thing. Myself and another Shed member both have well used Ryobi ERT241200, and they have both developed significant end float. One was used in the Kreg table for quite a while where it did not seem to be a problem, but when used as a hand router the end float allowed the bit to drop into the work piece going deeper than intended. A job was ruined finding this out.
My Bosch 1617 hasn’t let me down yet! I spent $50 for the “router table base” rather than $200 on a lift... it mainly sits in that router table... when I want to use it hand held just pull it out of the lift and go... I also have 3 makita palm routers, one is the battery one. I’m a carpenter by trade so one pretty much stays in the truck or jobsite and the others are in my shop... the cordless ones are awesome for the jobsite! I have to custom mortise all kinds of heavy duty door hardware (mostly the hidden pneumatic hinges that sit above and below the door slab) having the cordless in its plunge base and a custom made template I can just cruise around the whole house and knock out all the hardware mortising!
Just saw this video after watching a few of your other videos. Thankfully I bought the 2 1/4HP Bosch Fixed/Plunge router kit with the fancy edge guide first time around. My thinking was more along the lines of not wanting to buy the cheapest only to realize I needed more later. Glad I did after watching this!
You are correct - I am terrified of my Router. It came out of the box, and I had a quick look, and have not plugged it in yet. I am still trying to work out what is what on the all the attachments. There appears to be scaffolding stuff to put around the router????? and long rods??? totally baffled!! Thank you for doing this fabulous video, I think I may have worked it out now , thanks to your video.🤪
I’m a router addict. I have the Triton, the same Dewalt DW618, two Rigid palm routers. Corded and cordless versions. A older Dewalt laminate router, and I’m not done buying them. I’d like a couple more palm routers for different edge profiles and another two DW618s as spares in case the one I have dies. I just customized the guest room closet, and my routers worked the whole project. One hundred feet of chamfered edges on the trim alone! Routers put in work.
@@BurkeMakesStuff Jon has the right of it. Starting off, medium duty routers like the Dewalt DW618 as a kit will be your workhorse setup. As a second, palm router, either cordless or corded will do. From there, you should go by your needs. If you do a good bit of work, then a second motor for a DW618 kit can be found for less than $175. That’s the best start for routing anyone can get, in my opinion.
Thank you! I purchased the Dewalt 618 many years ago. Still a great platform! I want to do a router table, so this timing is great. This time I’m gonna buy the templates!! My Moxon vise works, but it doesn’t look so nice. I should have bought your moxon template set. Lesson learned on that! The router still intimidates me, but your videos are making me realize how useful a tool it is. Your teaching is greatly appreciated.
I first bought a cordless ryobi palm router and today I ordered a web RT 6033 15 amp plunged and fixed base kit. I’m either going to build a router table or purchase the husky workbench with a router plate already available I just need to build a fence system.
The Triton routers are great for table mounting as you don't need a lift, and you still have precise depth control from above the table. I've used the big TRa001 and slightly smaller MOF001 and love them. An issue I have not found a solution for with them is that the power switch has an interlock that prevents the bit being wound up to its locking position. This means you _have_ to be able to access the router body to change bits, and that makes dust collection under the table an issue. I have a big Ryobi router at home that is many years old and I still use at home (the Tritons are at my Menz Shed) despite it developing end float. A friend has the same router with the same problem. It's OK used upside down, which means clamped in my vice at the moment, but can creep into the job making the cut too deep when used right way up. I also have a Makita palm router at home which I love, and use much more than the Ryobi. My issue with that is that there is no fine height adjustment control. Just the clamp, so you have to nudge it and hope. I now want the convenience of a proper table router at home, and will use the Triton MOF001. Unfortunately we have to pay a premium for 240volt versions, but not needing a lift makes them a no brainer choice in my opinion.
I was about to buy a palm router (my first router), thinking it would be a good start. This was the video I needed to take the plunge on a mid size instead (sorry couldn’t resist the pun). I have learned so much through your library of videos. Thank you!!
I have what I think is the sam dewalt router, it came with the fixed base a plunge base and a d-handle base which I have never used the d-handle base. Incredible router. I ended up getting the Mikita cordless route because probably 95% of the router work that I do is trim routing. I absolutely love the my Makita though simply for being cordless, both are great machines of two different categories of routers as you mentioned.
I have the Triton in my router table- very good. Especially like the auto spindle lock on full up- no longer need a third hand to position bits. Made the rest- cheapest route to a quality router table.
Finally finally finally! This is the video I needed! This and your template video answered questions I didn’t even know enough to ask. Thanks! More router videos, please!
This is a great video, so much info and advice. I'd have gone for a palm router first but now know to go for a medium router as my first router. Thank you.
Put blue loctite on the threads for your triton router lock lever, it will keep it from vibrating out. I started with a medium duty vintage craftsman and than bought the Bosch medium with fixed and plunge base. Than grabbed up a Dewalt palm router with fixed and plunge as well, the plunge base has came in handy for me mainly using different jigs. Would like to pick up the battery palm as well and looking at get a Big Boy here soon, I have some slabs that I need to flatten out so I can get some coffee tables made up. Great video. Switches going bad is common on any electrical tool nowadays.
That is exactly what I did the 4th time the router lock lever vibrated off - LOCTITE! Actually after the 3rd time I put blue tape over the screw and used a small phillips through the tape to tighten the screw...that meant when it did come off the 4th time I knew where the screw was!
I love my Bosch 1617 router that’s 2 1/4hp it’s got a micro adjustment in the fixed base that can be used in a router table without needing a lift like the triton
Great review Jonathan. I got rid of my Triton routers. I hated them. The on/off switch is crap and in an awkward location. Parts falling off was also annoying. Granted they are powerful but they are nothing more than cheap Chinese junk. Now I have several Bosch routers which I really enjoy using.
I'd like to see this guy do it but also go check out the See Jane Drill channel. Leah talks about all kinds of tools and what they are used for. She is great.
I've had great luck with my Bosch 2.25hp; came with .25 and .5 inch collets, and fixed(in my router table) and plunge bases. I have many great Dewalt and Makita tools, but my 2 cents about my Bosch router.
I have a Dewalt DW618 that's only about a year old and only used as a weekend-warrior. The speed controller quit working. Fortunately it's still under warranty but that means I'll need to send it in for repairs and be without a router for probably weeks because Dewalt doesn't sell the part to consumers. When I Googled this malfunction I found several people who've had the same problem, some of them more than once. Needless to say I'm a bit perturb with Dewalt since this should never happen to a year old tool. I'm seriously considering the Bosch since it has excellent reviews.
Ordered and received the Katz-Moses Dovetail Jig and love it. Just started a woodwork course here in Dublin Ireland. Would highly recommend it. Amazing piece to work with for Dovetails. First time I seen it was on Matt Estlea.
Having recently bought the dewalt DCW604NT cordless router it kind of opened my eyes. At first I thought I'd only really be using it for chamfering and rounding over edges and never really thought I'd be using a plunge base anytime soon but was I wrong! As I only really have resources for 1 router at the moment I am very glad that mine came with a fixed and plunge base along with several other accessories. I totally understand the use of multiple routers especially the larger routers but doing this just as a hobby and trying to keep my budget and space constraints in check I can't really justify 2 routers, YET! :D Now that I have the router though I keep seeing more opportunities and ideas to use it, although I fear my basic bit set might need expanding :P
I’m buying the Dewalt router with plunge and fixed adapters BUT I see they ALSO offer the D Handle option. What’s you take on a D Handle and is it something to have in the shop ? I’m NOT a cabinet or furniture shop I’m just a dad and husband who is FINALLY putting together my dream shop in the back yard and I do things around the house or build things such as beds or shelves or do things or repairs for friends. I am a maintenance manager for a condo complex here in Florida but NEVER used a router... 🙄 but I’d love to learn this tool.
Great video. I was considering buying the battery powered palm router with the plunge base but after watching this, going with the medium duty. Thanks!
This video is a great buying guide, but I feel like you left off some information about bits that I was taught by one of my uncles who worked as a finishing carpenter on high end homes. When cutting hard woods, carbide bits are worth the extra money since they will last much longer than HSS (high speed steel or tool steel, including nitride and other coatings) while saving you time on sanding since they will not burn the wood as easily. I don't know about much about other materials used in bits, such as solid titanium or titanium alloys. This was over 20 years ago, so this might have changed. Could you do a video covering this topic?
I have both a big router and a palm router. Because of the size and weight, sometimes using the big router is just way to impractical or even impossible. For those jobs a palm router is great to save you from chiseling out stuff by hand.
I have three routers: the Dewalt kit you have, and a Dewalt palm router. For my router table router, I got a Bosch because I read somewhere that Dewalts aren't good for router tables because the placement of their cooling vents faces upwards in the table, allowing them to get clogged with dust. I don't know if that's really true, but I read it on the internet, so it must be....
It is nigh on impossible to kill a router with dust. Take a look at the dust collection enclosures everyone sells to strap to the bottom of your table, absolutely no mercy shown for the poor little router. But if you DON'T have good dust collection on your table you're basically force-feeding the dewalts, so yeah it'll eventually crap out first.
Have watched tons of videos on routers but didn't you recommend in one of your videos a little plastic handheld device where you could measure the depth of your router bit when using a palm router? I have looked and looked for this link and cannot find it. Thanks for your help.
I have several routers, plunge routers are more common in Australia, fixed base routers are rare here. I sell woodwork tools here for a job, we have a router lift that fits plunge routers, it works exceptionally well.
@@BurkeMakesStuff the Makita M3600G is a good router at an economical price point but is single speed, so don't use bits much over 1/2". The Bosch GOF1600 is an excellent choice but is over $500.
Hi, I'm getting into woodworking and want to buy my first router bits. I've seen your essential router skills video as well as this one and your recommendation is basically the oposite: here you say you should buy only the bits that you need and in the other one you advised to buy a cheap set from Amazon and see what bits you use the more. So, in your own experience, what advise should prevail? I enjoy your videos btw, you have great content :)
Question for the expert (you): Would I be able to use my existing Dremel 1/8" shank bits, with a 1/4-1/8" adapter, to use with my DeWALT DWP 611 palm router?
Deciding between the Skil RT1322, DeWalt DW618PK, and Bosch 1617EVSPK router. Have a 2001 Porter cable router 7529 and it is so so so so lovely! I need some advice. Don’t like the plunge base router handles on the Bosch, the DeWalt has issues with its variable speed, and the Skil has been made of cheaper materials. Which one would closely resemble my Porter Cable router I have now? I like the lights, digital readout, the collect lock for bit changes on the Skil. I like the heavy duty-ness of the DeWalt and it looks easy to use. I like the reviews about the Bosch and what people say about it. I dislike the plastic indicator on the plunge base for the Skil. I dislike the DeWalt’s faulty variable speed knob and the two wrench bit change. I dislike the two wrench bit change on the Bosch and the plunge base handles. Leaning towards the Skil, but I just am concerned about the quality. My Porter Cable router is in my router table right now and it would be great to just leave it in there rather than undoing bolts and latches on my homemade router lift. Have one router dedicated to my router table and another router for portability around my garage/shop. Advice?
Excellent information, it helps me a lot because I never owned or used a router before and I’m looking to have one and start doing some woods projects.
Just getting started with some basic woodworking and I see you recommend the medium router as a first purchase, but I'm not sure that I would ever need something that large - in your opinion, what can the smaller palm routers NOT do well enough that you would need the medium?
I purchased a Skil router that comes with fixed and plunger bases and it works well but the base plate attached to each will not allow for bits wider than 1 1/4". Right off the bat some of the bits I bought won't work with that plate. I could make one with a larger hole but what is the typical fix for this?
Seriously awesomely helpful man. Question.....I bought a used router table with a Porter Cable 690 (1 3/4HP) already in the lift. I own a Bosch 1617EVS (2 1/4HP) already and was thinking about switching them. Does that 1/2HP matter when in the router table? Most of what I will be doing is breaking edges. rabbit and dado passes.
Small additions: Bosch makes the Colt and a 1.25 palm router. I love Bosch but the 1.25 palm router is to be avoided because it doesn't fit most of their accessories for palm routers. The Dewalt 618 is great but if you're going to buy one mid-size router and be done the Bosch MRC23EVSK has more accessories available. More expensive? Yes. More money on accessories? Yes. But you only need one. It's easy to end up with a handful or a shelf full of routers this size in a larger shop. If you don't want that space taken up by used routers going for cheap on craigslist because they have that one rarely used function that yours doesn't, grab the Bosch. It also has all of the accessories available in Europe, and I don't believe all of the accessories are available for the Dewalt in Europe (could be wrong) 3.25 routers are the way to go for a router table. 2.25's work just fine, you might end up taking an extra pass with huge bits but big deal. The big advantage 3.25's have though is imperfect wood or weird wood. You have a lot more leeway to play with the speed thanks to the extra available torque, so you can run the bit much faster or much slower to avoid tear-out, burning, chatter, exploding knots or fraying of the grain, etc... You have more options to work with knotty, ugly wood and turn it into something great and it's less frustrating to work with exotics that have crazy grain structure, really oily heartwood that burns like a match, etc...
I agree with you on having a big router in your table. I have a dedicated 3.25 in mine to handle whatever I push through from the smallest roundovers to deep dados and rabbits.
So there will possibly be a point when you'd need two beefier routers for table and by hand? or do they detach from the table easy enough to just swap back and forth. obviously it would depend user to user.
Good Video, I have the big Triton (Beast) and it never leaves the router table. It has a few minor pros and cons but overall you can't beat it. I have a Dewalt palm and looking for the middle router, this helped. I think I'm going to go Dewalt on the middle router.
I know the standard advice with bits is to buy a basic set and see which ones you use the most, then upgrade those. But Have a basic Ryobi set and it doesn't include spiral up cuts or down cuts; and the bearing for a flush trim is suspect. I am adding the Dewalt to my Christmas list this year to replace my old, underpowered Black & Decker and would lit too out fit with a few high quality bits to start off with so I can do some basic template work and routing, like routing grooves for t-track. I also plan to upgrade shortly after that to get a router table and lift. Do you have a recommendation on the most basic bits that meet most everyday project needs? (I checked Bits & Bits and they don't have a basic "starter kit." which would be nice. Thanks. Bill P.S. Lovin' your apron.
Great video Jonathan. I have several routers but haven’t bought a palm router yet. It looks like that will be my next router purchase. The idea of using a table saw to rout out the center of dovetails sounds great. It seems that would really be a good technique for sliding dovetails. I’m thinking that if I have the sliding dovetail set up on my router table I could rout out the center with a straight spiral bit first then change over to the dovetail bit.
In this video you say only buy the bits you need. But in another one you said buy a set of cheap bits and replace as needed with nicer bits that way you have a cheap bit if you ever need to use that kind. Which one would you suggest?
Same concept basically. Nothing beats a nice blade if you know what you need. If you're just starting buying a cheap set will give you some basic skills so you can see which ones you use often
@Jonathan Katz-Moses I just saw that Jessem is going to be releasing a router designed specifically for a router table. Do you think you'll be reviewing it? From what I've read it looks to be a pretty great bit of kit.
Thanks for the video. This helps narrow down my choice on what i need. To save the fuss of having to get a $$$ router lift, i will try out this Triton one. ( using hotel points to get it ) so i guess i wont feel bad if the thing shits the bed on me years down the road. Do you do a lot of work with soft woods? Up here in Alberta, soft wood is most common and cheaper. I am hesitant on getting into hard wood.
Great video with lots of good information. One thing to be aware of for bushings is that not all routers take the same size. There is a standard Porter Cable bushing set which fits my DeWalt palm router and probably a lot of other brands but my Bosch 1617 needed an adapter collar (runs $10-15 at Amazon or Woodcraft stores) for them to fit.
Great video thanks, some really useful info - Most of my router bits are 1/2" and the majority have that "K" line to mark the maximum protrusion that the bit can be at in the collet, one thing that you may be able to help with is, how tight should you tighten the collet? I would have thought it is possible to damage the collet if you overtighten, but what is a good "feel" (i.e. without a torque gauge) to get a safe compression? Thanks!
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Tools Discussed in Video
Bits and Bits: bit.ly/BitsBits USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off
Dewalt DW618 Kit (my #1): amzn.to/34T0UV3
Makita 18v Palm Router: amzn.to/36VqI4L
Bosch Colt Palm Router: amzn.to/2Q5JiAU
Triton 3 ¼ hp: amzn.to/2p4UToV
JessEm Router Lift: amzn.to/2NWMexh
Kreg Router Plate for Triton Router for cheap router table: amzn.to/2K8fu2T
You say "I've got a lot of them [routers]"
I have 2 and I have only used a router 15 times in my life!
I've always heard that you are supposed to bottom out the bit, then pull it 1/8" or so. Is there a reason you dont? Was that an old fashioned idea that was made null by modern router precision?
Does your dewalt 618 have a jerky plunge motion? Mine does if I push down on the small column side... other than that it's great though!
As someone that has slowly been transitioning myself from fumbling through remodeling projects on the fixer-upper house we bought a couple of years ago to more advanced woodworking over the past year for both more complicated home projects and as a hobby - videos like this have been SO essential. This makers/woodworking community on TH-cam has made learning what I'm doing much less intimidating than it could be. The videos are not patronizing and it lets us learn at our own pace. This channel in particular has been a hell of a resource for me. Thank you and keep up the great work!!
Thanks bud that means a lot!
So well said brother! absolutely invaluable to my learning process as a new...ish woodworker!
So other than finding JKM really entertaining and his advice absolutely sound, for the 6th time, since i subscribed to this channel, one of your video's topics aligns EXACTLY to what I'm hyper focused on in building my own skill sets and abilities. I LITERALLY told a friend of mine last week that the next thing i need to seriously start looking into is getting my router game on point, but that I was scared to pull the trigger because i know ZERO about them! Once again, JKM comes to the rescue! I'm constantly impressed by the way you rock this stuff out! Thank you.....again! Side note: I'm SUPER excited because I JUST found out that an multi-part sculptural piece that I've been helping a friend build is going to be shown as an installation at the United Nations for a NFP in NYC! Super proud!
Router beginner here. This has been very informative. Thank you!
You sir are a gift from god. Thank you over and over again for helping me be a better woodworker!
I really appreciate it brother! Thank you!
I'm used to larger, corded routers th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.
My router has sat for almost a year in its bag because I was making mistakes. And you addressed all of my issues!!! Big thanks!!!
99,999 out of 10,000 - good stuff!
I was looking for this comment. :)
Diane Abbot loves this comment.
Thank you so much. This is the best basic router video I have seen. I have the Kreg router table and the dewalt’s router that you recommended in that table with the Kreg lift ((300$) and I agree, the lifts are all basically the same. Mine works great. I have a palm router but quickly realized I need a third router for bigger stuff not going to my table. I have been over thinking it but the truth is (after watching your video) I need to buy another dewalt. Great stuff my friend, thank you.
I recently purchased the Bosch MCR32EVSK and it has the built in ability to be adjusted from the both sides; top and bottom. It is a beast for a medium power router and I love the soft start on it. The plunge lever works great and seems robust and the built in trigger in the handle is great. I was initially intimidated by its weight compared to my old, old Porter Cable. My biggest complaint are the plastic dust collection parts (sold separately) they feel cheap and flimsy. My first use was with guide bushings. I picked up the Bosch RA1129 Template Guide Adapter which included the insert for standard, screw on, guide bushings and it worked like a charm and it is tooless. Like I said, dust collection works great but installing the plastic pieces is a real pain.
These videos are among the best for beginner/intermediate woodworking.
I love that you include so many links to the products you recommend. It isn't just the 15% discount, although that is nice indeed. It is the recommendation from a pro like you that allows me to feel comfortable purchasing these products, knowing I'm going to be getting a product that is great quality and very useful in my shop. Thanks So much!
Ok so I’m venturing into the deep waters of routers. I’m so glad I stumbled and subscribed to your channel . This video helped me TREMENDOUSLY !!!! I have a large scope of all kinds of power tool from various drills to planer jointers and saws. My point being I’m fortunate ( to have a WONDERFUL BEAUTIFUL WIFE that buys everything IF SHE SEES IT AND THINKS ID LIKE IT ) in case she’s reading this guys ... but the one thing I do not have because know nothing about it is the router. I’ve used a table router in wood shop in school like 35-40 years ago but that’s it.. so after viewing your video I’m going with the DeWalt and whatever accessories it has. Now my question is ( unless you have a video send a link ) WHEN WOULD YOU USE A TABLE ROUTER VS USING FREEHAND ? I am going to start watching YOUR videos and learn this tool to its fullest abilities. I REALLY want to master this tool . She’s ALREADY printing out projects for me to build that require this tool and stacking them on my nite stand 😂😂 and also require pocket jigs. Lol. Yeah she bought that machine now also. Not that complicated even tho it’s big. NOTE: yes I am very good with woodworking and very familiar with all power tools and joints and building etc. just about anything , just not this tool. Always seemed kind of complicated. That’s all... thank you .
The Big Triton TRA001 is almost a no brainer for fitting to a table, because like you said, it is all you need. Ours is fitted to a Kreg table and there were clear marks in the top plate to drill for fitting. It worked out way way cheaper than getting a spindle motor and lift and you have this uber powerful motor that is a pleasure to use. There are some gotchas to be fair. The Triton needs to be wound all the way up to engage the spindle lock for changing bits. So to ensure that is not engaged with the motor running there is an interlock controlled by a plastic cover that slides back to reveal the on/off switch. Of the dozen or so people who use ours (Blenheim Menz Shed NZ) some do seem to struggle to find that switch and cover to start with, but if you push back the cover with your middle finger, you can operate the rocker switch with your index finger. Once turned on we use a remote on/off switch.
NOTE: If you are outside the USA and have 240V mains then the Kreg on/off switch will not handle the current safely.
Another downside is that the thread for adjusting the height is 14tpi which is not particularly useful for metric. I have a disk calibrated for millimetres that I laminated, and fitted to the above table winder. Email if you'd like the file trevor.dennis@xtra.co.nz
One last thing. Myself and another Shed member both have well used Ryobi ERT241200, and they have both developed significant end float. One was used in the Kreg table for quite a while where it did not seem to be a problem, but when used as a hand router the end float allowed the bit to drop into the work piece going deeper than intended. A job was ruined finding this out.
My Bosch 1617 hasn’t let me down yet! I spent $50 for the “router table base” rather than $200 on a lift... it mainly sits in that router table... when I want to use it hand held just pull it out of the lift and go... I also have 3 makita palm routers, one is the battery one. I’m a carpenter by trade so one pretty much stays in the truck or jobsite and the others are in my shop... the cordless ones are awesome for the jobsite! I have to custom mortise all kinds of heavy duty door hardware (mostly the hidden pneumatic hinges that sit above and below the door slab) having the cordless in its plunge base and a custom made template I can just cruise around the whole house and knock out all the hardware mortising!
Informative, clear, easy to listen to, not arrogant
Just saw this video after watching a few of your other videos. Thankfully I bought the 2 1/4HP Bosch Fixed/Plunge router kit with the fancy edge guide first time around. My thinking was more along the lines of not wanting to buy the cheapest only to realize I needed more later. Glad I did after watching this!
You are correct - I am terrified of my Router. It came out of the box, and I had a quick look, and have not plugged it in yet. I am still trying to work out what is what on the all the attachments. There appears to be scaffolding stuff to put around the router????? and long rods??? totally baffled!! Thank you for doing this fabulous video, I think I may have worked it out now , thanks to your video.🤪
Thank you for this in-depth video into buying routers. It’s helped me decided on what to go for.
I’m a router addict. I have the Triton, the same Dewalt DW618, two Rigid palm routers. Corded and cordless versions. A older Dewalt laminate router, and I’m not done buying them. I’d like a couple more palm routers for different edge profiles and another two DW618s as spares in case the one I have dies.
I just customized the guest room closet, and my routers worked the whole project. One hundred feet of chamfered edges on the trim alone! Routers put in work.
best advice on entry level purchases? or should i just jump in both feet?
@@BurkeMakesStuff Jon has the right of it. Starting off, medium duty routers like the Dewalt DW618 as a kit will be your workhorse setup. As a second, palm router, either cordless or corded will do. From there, you should go by your needs. If you do a good bit of work, then a second motor for a DW618 kit can be found for less than $175.
That’s the best start for routing anyone can get, in my opinion.
Thank you! I purchased the Dewalt 618 many years ago. Still a great platform! I want to do a router table, so this timing is great. This time I’m gonna buy the templates!! My Moxon vise works, but it doesn’t look so nice. I should have bought your moxon template set. Lesson learned on that! The router still intimidates me, but your videos are making me realize how useful a tool it is. Your teaching is greatly appreciated.
I like the palm routers with 1/4 inch spiral bits for clearing out waste in things like small half laps or half blind dovetails.
The BEST ever talk about routers...
Thank you
By far the best all round Newbie Router vid I’ve watched and I’ve watched a lot, cheers
inserting bit in collet: I use O-rings on the bit shaft to keep from bottoming out the bit. Works great.
I first bought a cordless ryobi palm router and today I ordered a web RT 6033 15 amp plunged and fixed base kit. I’m either going to build a router table or purchase the husky workbench with a router plate already available I just need to build a fence system.
The Triton routers are great for table mounting as you don't need a lift, and you still have precise depth control from above the table. I've used the big TRa001 and slightly smaller MOF001 and love them. An issue I have not found a solution for with them is that the power switch has an interlock that prevents the bit being wound up to its locking position. This means you _have_ to be able to access the router body to change bits, and that makes dust collection under the table an issue. I have a big Ryobi router at home that is many years old and I still use at home (the Tritons are at my Menz Shed) despite it developing end float. A friend has the same router with the same problem. It's OK used upside down, which means clamped in my vice at the moment, but can creep into the job making the cut too deep when used right way up. I also have a Makita palm router at home which I love, and use much more than the Ryobi. My issue with that is that there is no fine height adjustment control. Just the clamp, so you have to nudge it and hope. I now want the convenience of a proper table router at home, and will use the Triton MOF001. Unfortunately we have to pay a premium for 240volt versions, but not needing a lift makes them a no brainer choice in my opinion.
I was about to buy a palm router (my first router), thinking it would be a good start. This was the video I needed to take the plunge on a mid size instead (sorry couldn’t resist the pun).
I have learned so much through your library of videos. Thank you!!
Very punny!
I have what I think is the sam dewalt router, it came with the fixed base a plunge base and a d-handle base which I have never used the d-handle base. Incredible router. I ended up getting the Mikita cordless route because probably 95% of the router work that I do is trim routing. I absolutely love the my Makita though simply for being cordless, both are great machines of two different categories of routers as you mentioned.
I have the Triton in my router table- very good. Especially like the auto spindle lock on full up- no longer need a third hand to position bits. Made the rest- cheapest route to a quality router table.
You put out the best woodworking videos, well produced, great sequencing and easy to understand.
Finally finally finally! This is the video I needed! This and your template video answered questions I didn’t even know enough to ask. Thanks! More router videos, please!
This is a great video, so much info and advice. I'd have gone for a palm router first but now know to go for a medium router as my first router. Thank you.
Put blue loctite on the threads for your triton router lock lever, it will keep it from vibrating out. I started with a medium duty vintage craftsman and than bought the Bosch medium with fixed and plunge base. Than grabbed up a Dewalt palm router with fixed and plunge as well, the plunge base has came in handy for me mainly using different jigs. Would like to pick up the battery palm as well and looking at get a Big Boy here soon, I have some slabs that I need to flatten out so I can get some coffee tables made up. Great video. Switches going bad is common on any electrical tool nowadays.
That is exactly what I did the 4th time the router lock lever vibrated off - LOCTITE!
Actually after the 3rd time I put blue tape over the screw and used a small phillips through the tape to tighten the screw...that meant when it did come off the 4th time I knew where the screw was!
I love my Bosch 1617 router that’s 2 1/4hp it’s got a micro adjustment in the fixed base that can be used in a router table without needing a lift like the triton
New woodworker and subscriber. Thank you so much to explain routers. Just fixed based router and can't wait to use it.Much appreciated.
Great review Jonathan. I got rid of my Triton routers. I hated them. The on/off switch is crap and in an awkward location. Parts falling off was also annoying. Granted they are powerful but they are nothing more than cheap Chinese junk. Now I have several Bosch routers which I really enjoy using.
We need more of these videos in our lives! I would love to see a whole series for all the tools in the shop!
YES! solid Idea! I'd watch and share every one!
I'd like to see this guy do it but also go check out the See Jane Drill channel. Leah talks about all kinds of tools and what they are used for. She is great.
Really great unbiased, clear, sensible advice. Thank you🤙
Great advice I’m a beginner and I appreciate everything you talked about.
Great vid. The 3rd router vid I've seen, but the only one that answered my questions
I've had great luck with my Bosch 2.25hp; came with .25 and .5 inch collets, and fixed(in my router table) and plunge bases. I have many great Dewalt and Makita tools, but my 2 cents about my Bosch router.
Best video I've seen yet on routing, period. Great job and thank you.
I have a Dewalt DW618 that's only about a year old and only used as a weekend-warrior. The speed controller quit working. Fortunately it's still under warranty but that means I'll need to send it in for repairs and be without a router for probably weeks because Dewalt doesn't sell the part to consumers. When I Googled this malfunction I found several people who've had the same problem, some of them more than once.
Needless to say I'm a bit perturb with Dewalt since this should never happen to a year old tool.
I'm seriously considering the Bosch since it has excellent reviews.
Thank you for being my go-to person for tools and knowledge dude! Keep up the awesome work!
Ordered and received the Katz-Moses Dovetail Jig and love it. Just started a woodwork course here in Dublin Ireland. Would highly recommend it. Amazing piece to work with for Dovetails. First time I seen it was on Matt Estlea.
Thanks bud!
Great video, Jonathan. I really needed this.
Always go backwards..counterclock wise..first to remove the bulk of the material.. then shape..good vedio
Having recently bought the dewalt DCW604NT cordless router it kind of opened my eyes.
At first I thought I'd only really be using it for chamfering and rounding over edges and never really thought I'd be using a plunge base anytime soon but was I wrong! As I only really have resources for 1 router at the moment I am very glad that mine came with a fixed and plunge base along with several other accessories. I totally understand the use of multiple routers especially the larger routers but doing this just as a hobby and trying to keep my budget and space constraints in check I can't really justify 2 routers, YET! :D
Now that I have the router though I keep seeing more opportunities and ideas to use it, although I fear my basic bit set might need expanding :P
Great advice and explanation of how to use plunge base! Thank you!
I’m buying the Dewalt router with plunge and fixed adapters BUT I see they ALSO offer the D Handle option. What’s you take on a D Handle and is it something to have in the shop ? I’m NOT a cabinet or furniture shop I’m just a dad and husband who is FINALLY putting together my dream shop in the back yard and I do things around the house or build things such as beds or shelves or do things or repairs for friends. I am a maintenance manager for a condo complex here in Florida but NEVER used a router... 🙄 but I’d love to learn this tool.
Great video. I was considering buying the battery powered palm router with the plunge base but after watching this, going with the medium duty. Thanks!
This video is a great buying guide, but I feel like you left off some information about bits that I was taught by one of my uncles who worked as a finishing carpenter on high end homes. When cutting hard woods, carbide bits are worth the extra money since they will last much longer than HSS (high speed steel or tool steel, including nitride and other coatings) while saving you time on sanding since they will not burn the wood as easily. I don't know about much about other materials used in bits, such as solid titanium or titanium alloys. This was over 20 years ago, so this might have changed.
Could you do a video covering this topic?
Buying only tools you need is useful, general advise. I bought sets, and never used three quarters of the set.
I have both a big router and a palm router. Because of the size and weight, sometimes using the big router is just way to impractical or even impossible. For those jobs a palm router is great to save you from chiseling out stuff by hand.
Thanks man! Your channel has inspired me to get better every day... Cheers!
How do u prevent the collet breaking? Or how often do u replace it? Also how hard do u tighten it around bits?
Great job conveying the message I needed! Thanks!
Great video, I use the keyhole bit alot good for making shelves
That dad joke at the end for the win!
Porter Cable makes excellent routers.
I have three routers: the Dewalt kit you have, and a Dewalt palm router. For my router table router, I got a Bosch because I read somewhere that Dewalts aren't good for router tables because the placement of their cooling vents faces upwards in the table, allowing them to get clogged with dust. I don't know if that's really true, but I read it on the internet, so it must be....
It is nigh on impossible to kill a router with dust. Take a look at the dust collection enclosures everyone sells to strap to the bottom of your table, absolutely no mercy shown for the poor little router.
But if you DON'T have good dust collection on your table you're basically force-feeding the dewalts, so yeah it'll eventually crap out first.
Have watched tons of videos on routers but didn't you recommend in one of your videos a little plastic handheld device where you could measure the depth of your router bit when using a palm router? I have looked and looked for this link and cannot find it. Thanks for your help.
Should try the festool router, best ever. But I'm a fan boy of porter cable too
I have several routers, plunge routers are more common in Australia, fixed base routers are rare here. I sell woodwork tools here for a job, we have a router lift that fits plunge routers, it works exceptionally well.
which router that you've worked with personally do you favor?
@@BurkeMakesStuff 1400w Triton or 1400w Festool
Rendel I’m a teacher... I don’t have festool $$!
@@BurkeMakesStuff the Makita M3600G is a good router at an economical price point but is single speed, so don't use bits much over 1/2". The Bosch GOF1600 is an excellent choice but is over $500.
Hi, I'm getting into woodworking and want to buy my first router bits. I've seen your essential router skills video as well as this one and your recommendation is basically the oposite: here you say you should buy only the bits that you need and in the other one you advised to buy a cheap set from Amazon and see what bits you use the more. So, in your own experience, what advise should prevail? I enjoy your videos btw, you have great content :)
Question for the expert (you): Would I be able to use my existing Dremel 1/8" shank bits, with a 1/4-1/8" adapter, to use with my DeWALT DWP 611 palm router?
Deciding between the Skil RT1322, DeWalt DW618PK, and Bosch 1617EVSPK router. Have a 2001 Porter cable router 7529 and it is so so so so lovely! I need some advice. Don’t like the plunge base router handles on the Bosch, the DeWalt has issues with its variable speed, and the Skil has been made of cheaper materials. Which one would closely resemble my Porter Cable router I have now?
I like the lights, digital readout, the collect lock for bit changes on the Skil. I like the heavy duty-ness of the DeWalt and it looks easy to use. I like the reviews about the Bosch and what people say about it.
I dislike the plastic indicator on the plunge base for the Skil. I dislike the DeWalt’s faulty variable speed knob and the two wrench bit change. I dislike the two wrench bit change on the Bosch and the plunge base handles.
Leaning towards the Skil, but I just am concerned about the quality.
My Porter Cable router is in my router table right now and it would be great to just leave it in there rather than undoing bolts and latches on my homemade router lift. Have one router dedicated to my router table and another router for portability around my garage/shop.
Advice?
Excellent information, it helps me a lot because I never owned or used a router before and I’m looking to have one and start doing some woods projects.
Just getting started with some basic woodworking and I see you recommend the medium router as a first purchase, but I'm not sure that I would ever need something that large - in your opinion, what can the smaller palm routers NOT do well enough that you would need the medium?
Thanks for the info and for starting at the beginning.
Half inch bits also dissipate heat better, it can reduce bearing burnout.
I purchased a Skil router that comes with fixed and plunger bases and it works well but the base plate attached to each will not allow for bits wider than 1 1/4". Right off the bat some of the bits I bought won't work with that plate. I could make one with a larger hole but what is the typical fix for this?
Show us what you do in the "production" side of the business! It would be cool to see
Seriously awesomely helpful man. Question.....I bought a used router table with a Porter Cable 690 (1 3/4HP) already in the lift. I own a Bosch 1617EVS (2 1/4HP) already and was thinking about switching them. Does that 1/2HP matter when in the router table? Most of what I will be doing is breaking edges. rabbit and dado passes.
Small additions:
Bosch makes the Colt and a 1.25 palm router. I love Bosch but the 1.25 palm router is to be avoided because it doesn't fit most of their accessories for palm routers.
The Dewalt 618 is great but if you're going to buy one mid-size router and be done the Bosch MRC23EVSK has more accessories available. More expensive? Yes. More money on accessories? Yes. But you only need one. It's easy to end up with a handful or a shelf full of routers this size in a larger shop. If you don't want that space taken up by used routers going for cheap on craigslist because they have that one rarely used function that yours doesn't, grab the Bosch. It also has all of the accessories available in Europe, and I don't believe all of the accessories are available for the Dewalt in Europe (could be wrong)
3.25 routers are the way to go for a router table. 2.25's work just fine, you might end up taking an extra pass with huge bits but big deal. The big advantage 3.25's have though is imperfect wood or weird wood. You have a lot more leeway to play with the speed thanks to the extra available torque, so you can run the bit much faster or much slower to avoid tear-out, burning, chatter, exploding knots or fraying of the grain, etc... You have more options to work with knotty, ugly wood and turn it into something great and it's less frustrating to work with exotics that have crazy grain structure, really oily heartwood that burns like a match, etc...
I agree with you on having a big router in your table. I have a dedicated 3.25 in mine to handle whatever I push through from the smallest roundovers to deep dados and rabbits.
I've been desperately searching router and brass bushings set which is suitable for making various inlay projects. I wonder which is better
great presentation, thanks. straight to the point.
Great info video on routers. Thank you Jon!
Lots of good advice and nuggets of experience.
So there will possibly be a point when you'd need two beefier routers for table and by hand? or do they detach from the table easy enough to just swap back and forth.
obviously it would depend user to user.
Good Video, I have the big Triton (Beast) and it never leaves the router table. It has a few minor pros and cons but overall you can't beat it. I have a Dewalt palm and looking for the middle router, this helped. I think I'm going to go Dewalt on the middle router.
Hey, if I want to build electric guitar, what router should I get?
I know the standard advice with bits is to buy a basic set and see which ones you use the most, then upgrade those. But Have a basic Ryobi set and it doesn't include spiral up cuts or down cuts; and the bearing for a flush trim is suspect. I am adding the Dewalt to my Christmas list this year to replace my old, underpowered Black & Decker and would lit too out fit with a few high quality bits to start off with so I can do some basic template work and routing, like routing grooves for t-track. I also plan to upgrade shortly after that to get a router table and lift. Do you have a recommendation on the most basic bits that meet most everyday project needs? (I checked Bits & Bits and they don't have a basic "starter kit." which would be nice. Thanks.
Bill
P.S. Lovin' your apron.
Good video, good tips and tricks and complements Stumpy Nubs video. Top two router indormation videos.
- Really, really good info. Thanx. I love, love, love my routers.
Routers are my least-favorite tool in my shop. Here’s hoping this video will help with that.
Great video Jonathan. I have several routers but haven’t bought a palm router yet. It looks like that will be my next router purchase. The idea of using a table saw to rout out the center of dovetails sounds great. It seems that would really be a good technique for sliding dovetails. I’m thinking that if I have the sliding dovetail set up on my router table I could rout out the center with a straight spiral bit first then change over to the dovetail bit.
In this video you say only buy the bits you need. But in another one you said buy a set of cheap bits and replace as needed with nicer bits that way you have a cheap bit if you ever need to use that kind. Which one would you suggest?
Same concept basically. Nothing beats a nice blade if you know what you need. If you're just starting buying a cheap set will give you some basic skills so you can see which ones you use often
Thank’s for the advice on buying.
@Jonathan Katz-Moses I just saw that Jessem is going to be releasing a router designed specifically for a router table. Do you think you'll be reviewing it? From what I've read it looks to be a pretty great bit of kit.
Thanks for the video!! U have made some order and made it simple to understand how to use the router. Now i need to use my router more often...
Thanks for the video. This helps narrow down my choice on what i need. To save the fuss of having to get a $$$ router lift, i will try out this Triton one. ( using hotel points to get it ) so i guess i wont feel bad if the thing shits the bed on me years down the road.
Do you do a lot of work with soft woods? Up here in Alberta, soft wood is most common and cheaper. I am hesitant on getting into hard wood.
I'm leaning towards Triton too.....its just that price tag....
porter cable speedomatics are 3 1/4 clydesdales
great for slab work
the triton router is good?
Thanks, Jonathan I really enjoy your videos!!! Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge, you rock dude!!!
Great video cleared a few things up for me. I was on the fence between the medium duty kit and a heavy duty. Thanks.
Can you recommend others brands for router bits? And price range for decent bits...
Price is so variable. Go check out bits and bits linked in the pinned comment. Use my discount code for 15% off. Best deal 8n town
@@katzmosestools another brands exept bits bits?....
Great video with lots of good information. One thing to be aware of for bushings is that not all routers take the same size. There is a standard Porter Cable bushing set which fits my DeWalt palm router and probably a lot of other brands but my Bosch 1617 needed an adapter collar (runs $10-15 at Amazon or Woodcraft stores) for them to fit.
Great video thanks, some really useful info - Most of my router bits are 1/2" and the majority have that "K" line to mark the maximum protrusion that the bit can be at in the collet, one thing that you may be able to help with is, how tight should you tighten the collet? I would have thought it is possible to damage the collet if you overtighten, but what is a good "feel" (i.e. without a torque gauge) to get a safe compression? Thanks!