oh really. it is the original heatsink wedge and pried and taped onto get it under the top rail bar? i thought i was original. lol you have the 1100kv hobbywing?
@@readeracingRC Indeed I do, I pried it open a bit so it covers the motor. I also shaved the sides down a bit so I could get it over the top rail bar, then used two zip ties to the motor. I also have the stock fan housing, I replaced the stock fans with Rocket Fans, they fit in perfectly.
And another tip is to run a couple of the bolts holding that plastic cover on... all the way through and nut em. But yeah, that end piece block is a no brainer, eh?
really wanted one of these but now they don't seem worth it, 1000$ used 2000$ new and then you have to rebuild the whole gearing system get spare servo cuz I guess those break all the time too, just to drive it around normally and not hard
i hear ya. i refuse to buy another one, or they fix the problems with this truck. i just keep rebuilding mine I love sending it over a hundo feet. that's just me. have fun bro.
@@readeracingRC Yeah, I don't get how they still sell so many after not fixing that in even their upgraded one, which is $400$ more, lol. if ppl would stop buying so many I think they'd be forced to fix it,, I wanted it to drive through snow since it'll be a Xmas gift, but that'd be hard on it, so it would probably just break over and over again. Or I would just buy a used one and upgrade it, but even the upgraded ones seem to break a lot.
no that's bad. if your talking about the pinion gear. no you need to remove the gear and grub screw. clean the grub screw and the pinion gear threads with alcohol. to where there is no more dirt (oil) from the factory. has to be clean. then apply blue or orange lock tight. red is really hard to get off. (permanent) and let dry for 24 hours.
my bad. i thought it was the pinion gear.. so your saying the spur gear. ya that should not be moving around. i would pull it apart and check maybe you missing one pieces. im looking at the exploded view. it has to missing a pin or a keeper. i would tear it apart and see what is missing. please keep me informed. this bothering me lol have fun.
wow. i don't see it on amazon anymore. but ebay item number 11563344458. called gpm steel transition input shaft cush drive 7786. shit and it $37 now.. jeeeeze. at the time it wasn't more than $20. have fan
I did the same thing with my heat sink. Running the same set up as you are,
oh really. it is the original heatsink wedge and pried and taped onto get it under the top rail bar? i thought i was original. lol you have the 1100kv hobbywing?
@@readeracingRC Indeed I do, I pried it open a bit so it covers the motor. I also shaved the sides down a bit so I could get it over the top rail bar, then used two zip ties to the motor. I also have the stock fan housing, I replaced the stock fans with Rocket Fans, they fit in perfectly.
You forgot to mention most important part make sure all screw on the motor and motor mount are on 1 or missing screw can make the motor tackle
where did you get that cap bearing?
And another tip is to run a couple of the bolts holding that plastic cover on... all the way through and nut em. But yeah, that end piece block is a no brainer, eh?
i just reread you comment. i didnt realize you nut and bolted the plastic cover piece on. good idea. next time i tare it down in putting that to use,
really wanted one of these but now they don't seem worth it, 1000$ used 2000$ new and then you have to rebuild the whole gearing system get spare servo cuz I guess those break all the time too, just to drive it around normally and not hard
i hear ya. i refuse to buy another one, or they fix the problems with this truck. i just keep rebuilding mine I love sending it over a hundo feet. that's just me. have fun bro.
@@readeracingRC Yeah, I don't get how they still sell so many after not fixing that in even their upgraded one, which is $400$ more, lol. if ppl would stop buying so many I think they'd be forced to fix it,, I wanted it to drive through snow since it'll be a Xmas gift, but that'd be hard on it, so it would probably just break over and over again. Or I would just buy a used one and upgrade it, but even the upgraded ones seem to break a lot.
where do you buy the cap bearing?
Amazon: i.ytimg.com/vi/8eOYrblXnEI/hqdefault.jpg?sqp=-oaymwEcCOADEI4CSFXyq4qpAw4IARUAAIhCGAFwAcABBg==&rs=AOn4CLCalCqc2gjsDvTgBH6csw7bOloEMw
Just got one and noticed that. is it normal for that gear to slide in and out. floating from lined up to hitting half the gear
no that's bad. if your talking about the pinion gear. no you need to remove the gear and grub screw. clean the grub screw and the pinion gear threads with alcohol. to where there is no more dirt (oil) from the factory. has to be clean. then apply blue or orange lock tight. red is really hard to get off. (permanent) and let dry for 24 hours.
@@readeracingRC It's the spur gear that moves on the shaft. looks like the pin that holds it in place is where it's loose at.
my bad. i thought it was the pinion gear.. so your saying the spur gear. ya that should not be moving around. i would pull it apart and check maybe you missing one pieces. im looking at the exploded view. it has to missing a pin or a keeper. i would tear it apart and see what is missing. please keep me informed. this bothering me lol have fun.
@@readeracingRC cool. I found it missing a washer behind the cush drive.
Can you link to this part? Having trouble finding it
wow. i don't see it on amazon anymore. but ebay item number 11563344458. called gpm steel transition input shaft cush drive 7786. shit and it $37 now.. jeeeeze. at the time it wasn't more than $20. have fan
amazon i.ytimg.com/vi/8eOYrblXnEI/hqdefault.jpg?sqp=-oaymwEcCOADEI4CSFXyq4qpAw4IARUAAIhCGAFwAcABBg==&rs=AOn4CLCalCqc2gjsDvTgBH6csw7bOloEMw