I replaced my engine/trans mounts on my 2005 Camry at 100,000 miles/17 years. The result was no more steering wheel vibration at 60 mph+ highway driving. I went OEM on all mounts.
I agree with you last time I replaced was on a 15 year Corolla with 130k miles on it. Let me say it wasn’t fun and I was 5 years younger 😂I think I’ll let the next to the young guys even if it cost more. You have to pick your fights and this one I’ll pay for sure
This is why engineers should be required to service and fix their own creation once or twice a year, then they will learn what a “masterpiece” they have created.
Competent engineers design bullshit because management tells them to. Either way it's management because an incompetent engineer also falls under their purview. The 3.5 is a large engine. You need a shoehorn and vaseline to get one in a Camry.
It’s the bean counter execs that have the final say to ridiculous design direction, it’s universal to most fields involving design. Engineers, architects, and artists are all at the mercy of the bean counters and their anti-consumer practices.
This is real time, mechanic struggle/grind. Ive watch plenty of mechanic/how-to videos and they typically fast forward or skip the full demonstration of the most difficult part. Appreciate this in-depth video. 😊
I'm so glad he included the struggle of removing the old front engine mount. Most videos stop at this point and begin again when the mount is already in
AMAZING: My 2008 Camry had a weird vibration and TCCN replaced ALL with OEM mounts. Drives beautifully, purrs. I called this job "Cracker Jack" since there apparently were suprises inside. ADM is a superior perfectionist, drills down to find the root cause & resolve. It was an honor for TCCN to do this job, can't wait till he inspects my 2007 Highlander !!! BRAVO, how does the world clone your morality & ethics !!!
I’m sure a number of people have already mentioned it but there is no substitute for OEM engine mounts. I changed the front engine mount and torque strut on my 2010 Camry using aftermarket mounts and was back to square one a year later. Yeah, the Toyota mounts cost more but they are still going strong 100,000miles later.
This is true. Plus all the scam places always try to do it knowing it's an easy money maker every time. This is why you always avoid quick lube places. They'll charge you $100 for an annual aftermarket dog one but you can get a $120 from the dealer and do it yourself and never again deal with it
You know f 3:09 or sure that the Toyota parts are exactly the right size which can be critical in some cases. Like most things the old saying " you get ehat you pay for " applies. I'm doing my front brakes and rotors. The Toyota parts are not much more than the few top quality aftermarket parts but I know that they will fit right and how long they will last. I have a Highlander I don't need semi metallic pads and drilled and slotted rotors.
I had to disconnect those exact motor mounts to replace a bent lower control arm. They were rusty after 14 years but still intact. Thanks for showing how to replace all of them. So appreciated!
I just booked an appointment with the Car Care Nut on December 21 to fix my back windshield shade on my Toyota Avalon. I’m excited and hope I don’t get star struck. 😂
Just tell him your blind and keep your eyes closed, this will help greatly with staying calm. This trick also works when getting pulled over, if the cop says "Are you seriously driving?", Follow up with "Yes!!, I just hope for the best". I guarantee 100% of the time... That will definitely not work. Happy Driving...Stevie Wonder 😬😁.
You will be surprised at the friendliness of Ahmed himself, Mrs CCN and everyone else at TCCN Automotive. Although I live 60 miles away I have already been there a few times and they will be my regular spot for most work.
15:00-15:16: "Don't give up though..." -- I don't know who needs to hear this but this is the best advice you could get at a basic level. I can't tell you how many times I wanted to give up working on cars with rusted parts, rounded bolt heads and stuck brake drums. I forced myself to continue and I'm a better mechanic because of it. If you're new to turning a wrench (and I still consider myself very new) it's important to persevere. Be smart but intentional about troubleshooting difficult problems. Too many TH-cam videos out there mislead people into thinking everything just comes apart and back together without struggle. In my experience, there is ALWAYS struggle. Even outside the rust belt. I love this channel!
You’re certainly have earned your Toyota strips as a master mechanic. As someone who works on his own 1998 Toyota Camry V6 with a manual E153 transmission purchased brand new, I’m looking for the lowest on-line cost provider with Toyota OEM parts, may I ask what’s your domestic Toyota parts source? I would love to set up a wholesale account with them. TJM Palm Beach Gardens FL
I guess I'm just weird. As you were removing the covers on that lexus, with each cover that came off, the better I liked it. I took the cover off of my Avalon as soon as I bought it, that was 15 years ago. I like the look of the engine, and I like to hear the engine sounds. Especially when I'm leaning on the gas pedal. That engine sound is like angels singing to me.
Instead of plugging hoses with a bolt to prevent dripping, try a golf tee. The taper allows you to give a little push and usually holds without any clamp.
@@RoySki007 *Indeed true. The ones I know golf regularly and have done so for decades. Golf instills thought, planning, patience, focus and concentration. Just depends upon where you work and who you work for. Cheers!*
I replaced all the mounts in my lexus rx400h because it had 200k miles. My after-market mounts are garbage compared to my old lexus mounts with 200k. So don't do my mistake.
I sell thousands of aftermarket motor mounts every month. I’ve been doing it for 7 years. I use them in my car too. Here’s what I’ve learned: ALL VEHICLES ARE DIFFERENT, but the general lifespan is about 6 years. Some people get 2, others get 10. A few get much more out of the less important mounts. My 97 Honda Civic still has the original rear engine mount and transmission mount, and they are still in good shape. The others need replacement after approximately 5 years. OEM is *almost* always the best you can get, but depending on the vehicle brand, you could pay dearly for them. For many DIYers, OEM may not be worth the cost IF the job is easy. If you take your car to the mechanic and pay for labor, the only way I’d recommend aftermarket is if the shop buys the mount on their account and guarantees the work. Let the mechanic deal with the warranty. Their suppliers can get the parts faster, and labor is covered. Sometimes aftermarket is the better deal, but make sure to factor in labor costs! OEM lasts longer than aftermarket. Nothing wrong with aftermarket , but it depends on how much you’re willing to spend and how easy or hard the job is because you probably will change it sooner. In Mitsubishi’s case, we’ve had people with 2 year old vehicles with ALL broken OEM mounts already and it became a normal occurrence. In that case, just buy aftermarket 😂. OEM Toyota/Lexus mounts are good quality. We rarely have complaints about excessive vibration from any engine bigger than a 4 cylinder. V6 and V8 engines are just naturally smoother. You can get away with replacing 1 mount, as long as you didn’t drive your car for years (which most people do anyways) with the bad mount. This ruins the other mounts. Almost every car will wear out the main engine mount first, which is closest to the timing cover. For Toyota/Lexus and Honda/Acura, the front mount. The mount in this location usually bears most of the weight and torque, hence why it wears faster. Your driving style MATTERS. Flooring it from a stoplight (obviously) puts a lot of stress on your mounts. If oil is leaking directly onto your mounts, they absolutely will not last very long at all. Fix the leak. If you are tightening a bolt that is embedded into the rubber, don’t drive it down with damn impact! If you stretch or twist the rubber while tightening the bolt, the mount will stiffen up and cause vibration issues. If you drive a luxury car, I would also think twice about aftermarket mounts. If you are picky/particular about your ride, just spend the money and get OEM. Electric cars have drive unit (motor) mounts too. Not sure of how often they need to be replaced(don’t have much experience with them yet), but they do fail.
I have Question, i have 2010 corolla and the mounts wear Quickly , i replaced passenger engine mounts twice and the Gearbox mount also failed , Does bad roads have any thing to do with mounts? Because i live in a country with very dumpy roads .
@@MohammedJobori Rough roads on a transversely mounted engine in the Corolla can definitely affect the lifespan of the engine mounts.. Gearbox mount for a 2010 Corolla is common. I get orders for just that mount quite often.....much more often than gearbox mounts for other makes/models, so that's normal for that specific car. The passenger's side mount is the main mount, and it normally wears faster than the other mounts, however you should get at least 5 years of use without issue.
I love the fact that you fixed his clips. Most mechanics lose the clips and don't replace them. Do you know the part number for the clips in the engine bay on a 2015 gs350. I need some because their missing.
I'm getting frustrated just watching you fighting that first mount. That's why I only work on my vehicles anymore if I absolutely have to as my patience has waned as I get old.
I have a 91 vzn130 4runner with 467,000 k's and still runs like a dream. It also has the original engine mounts which are still fine. I can still balance a 50 cent coin on edge on the motor while it's idling. Love my Toyotas. Regular service is the key.
Having to rebuild the front end on my 14 Sienna with 190k miles. Since I am replacing the lower control arms, I am debating replacing motor mounts while I am already in there. Great video.
What do you think about putting (spraying or penseling) a very little CRC 3.36 anti corrosion fluid onto electrical low voltage (12Vdc) pins and bushes in plugs and recepticles to prevent (resolve) corrosion, and enhance electrical conductance ?
You wet wash the vehicles? Why not use a dry wash detailer product to remove light shop dust.. or one of those "California duster" soft light wax coated brushes that limo drivers use to keep their rides shiny.. Or even just a thin plastic cover. A shop by me does that for longer term vehicles. Save all that labor time and getting wet and making the shop damp. Just some things I thought of a few days after seeing this.
I am so happy I found this channel. It is a great pleasure to watch, I don't even know how many videos I have already binge-watched :) Thanks for all the great informative content and a pleasant presentation. I wish you all the best.
Yeah, the motor mounts I paid $70 for set of 5 or 6 on my 2002 Honda Odyssey were not as good as OEM, more vibration, but better than the worn out OEM and lasted over 100,000 miles. But now my engine is jumping again like it did with OEM. Considering I have cam noise, rusty body, leaking cooling system, surging idle, worn tires, death airbags (don't trust it the hour drive to dealer), 285,000 miles on it with original driveline, I just bought another $70 set to get me by, but I'd go OEM with a good car.
That customer will really appreciate the job u did. It'll feel like a new car! Now, dumb question: Where do u u buy your clips from? Toyota? How many different sizes? Can we buy bags of them? I see they do on Amazon but never coŕrect. Thanks!👍
Nice to see the honest struggles and trics / mentality explained through the job! Thanks! I'm just starting to learn and did small fixes like rotors and water pump + pipes on my LR4. It's very educative to see you work even if I don't hown a Toyota. Keep it up and Cheers!
"in the mechanic world, this is called, "you gotta pay your dues."" not a mechanic, but that saying perfectly explains WHY i have nothing but problems when i try to work on my car.
what you just described about the motor mounts on a corolla, is EXACTLY what i am going through... once i have money in the bank, im having the shop replace all of them, i had just the two replaced a year or so ago, and been struggling with vibrations since
I’m sad to report that all my local Toyota dealers are charging roughly the same price to replace my cv axle boot as an entire axle. About $750 to $1,100 Therefore I’ve decided to continue driving in the perfectly good axle (with a small leak) until it completely falls apart. At least then I can justify a $1000 repair bill
Wow so much appreciated video I have the same car 09 and I feel smooth vibration but in the steering wheel and when I turn the steering wheel right or left is like better the vibration go any suggestions thanks for the video
Thank you AMD another great video. What happened to Jose recording you, seems you were tripoding the majority of the video till the end, lol. Fantastic info and great detailed.
Amd, could you give us an approximate or book cost for these repairs in the future? We always take our Camry into the dealerships (moved a lot) with the exception of blinker lights and the battery. It is at 200K (mostly highway miles) and the only "surpises" are a TPM and the passenger side airbags going out. This is on a 2015 Camry LE & we storm chase, so that might give you an idea of what it has been through lol. We are thinking about a new vehicle and I am leaning toward the Grand Highlander or maybe a Sienna for the added hauling capacity. Thank you for your well thought shot and thought out videos!
Where can I but a bunch of genuine Toyota clips to have on hand when working on my vehicles?" Do them make a pack of them? The dealership wants dollars for each one.
Thank you for the great video. Very detailed, great video quality and you have a calming way of presenting the information. I have a 2003 Camry with 76K miles (I'm the original owner). I just noticed the bushing on the torque strut is partially cracked. When I put it in gear, I do see some rocking. So I plan on replacing that. My question is, what is the likelihood that the other mounts are bad since it's a low-mileage car and has been driven responsibly? Other than removing the other mounts and wagging the top bolt around, how else can I determine if they are bad (e.g. install a new strut and see how the difference in how the engine responds, etc.). Thanks again for the A - grade video.
As always very informative video. I liked the tour of the shop with various problems of different cars. You mentioned making new brake lines. Perhaps that's a good future video you can make on making new brake lines.
My Honda has 4 motormounts and 3 transmission mounts. Took me such a long time to discover it was the motormounts that were giving me accelleration and highway vibrations. But I did not buy OEM replacements. They were 900 euro's. Yeah no thanks.
I have a 33 year old Toyota Land Cruiser, 200'000 miles, maybe I should change mine! To be honest I have only owned it for 12 years so they may have been done before. I have done the transmission mount. 100% agree with the quality of Toyota mounts, really well made. The quality of rubber has huge variations.
I unfortunately definitely agree with using OEM mounts. The same applies to Honda and Hyundai, from my experience. The aftermarket mounts are just not quite manufactured to spec and cause problems more often than not. You may be able to get away with using one or two aftermarket, but especially any hydraulically controlled ones for vibration dampening during idle, they need to be OEM.
As of today, 12.6.2023, I replaced my mother’s 2009 Highlander all struts and everything else(OEM parts )except the springs. I was very surprised that some of the parts were still good after 15 years in the car.
I know this will sound stupid, but Where can I buy original clips for my Toyota t25? When I look on internet, I am literally bombed with after-market clips with the wrong diameters and lengths.
So I just finished this job on a 2003 Highlander Limited V6. The 2003 Highlander Limited does have a rear mount that needs to also be unbolted in order to get enough engine lift to replace the passenger side mount. Thanks Amd for this video.
@@tbone4075 highway miles may bring up the number on your odometer but they sure do leave you with a less worn out vehicle. I’ve been in newer Toyotas used as Ubers and Taxis in major cities and they may have lower miles but they sure are worn out a lot quicker
Very good afternoon, I want to thank you for making this kind of videos. I know you are a Toyota expert and I have a problem with my 2012 Toyota PRIUS, antifreeze is getting into cylinder number two. I already have the vehicle parked and I do not want to damage it further and my question is to you as an expert and since I have watched your videos how you explain things, I would like to ask you please for advice on the vehicle, I like the vehicle and I want to repair it, which would be the best option to rebuild the engine or just buy the new block from the agency, as I have seen in your Videos and I appreciate your honest response. Thank you in advance and may you and your family be very well.😊😊😊😊
My Tacoma has 140 k and had a clunk since day one….the pass side is very hard to see…but might have a crack…but I do not know if it has sagged or failed….I’m on w coast…no rust….
@@pedrofernandez8729 yeah I really like this host and have been following since the beginning. I guess it all depends as my Corolla was a real beater but kept going. It a big difference when you replace for sure. The rocking of the engine can really get out of control. Did you end up replacing with OEM or did you just get another order? I would use after market again if it was my vehicle 🚗
You can also remove it from top. He took non diy way the feont mount. For diy folks you can remove from above just loose radiator holding frame and push out few inches and if u can fan Removing subframe is not a typical diy who do not have lift...
Hi AMD, i bought aftermarket made in Japan motor mounts for my 1997 corolla (car is too old so aftermarket makes sense) for 105 dollars. its been 6 months so far and its doing great.
Had the engine mounts of my '08 ES350 (192K miles) replaced this year. The shop I use automatically uses after market parts without asking if I want OEM. Doesn't seem right.
AMD said replace them all as a unit, but he also said the torque mount wears out and then degrades the other mounts. To me that means it’s better to replace the torque mount first provided the others are ok. The question is how to judge their condition? I expect you could use a pry bar to check how much they move, and could use a floor jack to jack up the engine a bit and see how much play they have. I wonder how rusted those frame rails are on the inside? 🤢🤢🤢 I liked the shop tour. It’s like some kid’s prized hot wheels collection (except for the sienna lol).
Whilst I enjoy your Videos and your right 99% of the time. The comment you made about not using aftermarket DENSO parts is absolute rubbish & bullsh*t 5:04 Denso makes OEM MAFs for Toyota as well a many other OEM parts for Toyota & many other car Manufacturers. Paying less for the exact same part in a Denso Box rather than paying more for a Toyota box. Toyota does not make every part on their cars and uses companies like DENSO to supply them.
Great video,but should this engine mounts has a certain torque value on those bolt?I do my own car and dirtbike maintains and always follow the repair manual to torque engine and chasis bolts,or my gear of OCD would be triggered.😐
As alway,once I finish torking a bolt or nut or a set of them,I mark them with a line of paint,job could be done wrong if you deal with too many bolts and nuts,just my 2 cents of poor mechanic skill that make myself sleep well.
You said @1:45 one has a pin and one does not have a pin but the picture was too small to see what you meant by a pin. Is there a pin whole in the engine mount or is something like a pin sticking out of it?
I've bought third party motor mounts and he's right. They're crap. The Toyota mounts are a LOT more expensive, but the cheap ones last a few months and then you're right back where you started. Just bite the bullet and get the Toyota mounts, and save yourself a lot of work.
Great video , very informative , i have two of these ES 350s , one is same color Matador Red and another one is Black . Thank you for sharing your experience .
I just replaced my motor mounts on my 1999 V6 Camry at 304k miles. It does have a rear mount which is a royal pain to replace. Cutting the rear bracket on the rear mount in two was essential. Now car drives like new and pulls like a mule!
Hello AMD, As always enjoy your presentation, count my good fortune as a Toyota Hilux owner. I never tire of the great service it renders and rugged build, Yes it will likely outlast me as I'm 74 and it being a 2016 with 79,500 km on the odometer. I only wish I'd bought on 20 yrs ago. My comment today is the plastic covers/shields underneath Toyotas/most all European stuff. Do you think this crap is necessary? No my Hilux is not encumbered by such, thank goodness. Again thanks for the always great presentation. God bless and keep you. LWC
not necessary, and causes more road noise when you drive over a road with debris or little rocks all over it due to them flicking around and hitting the plastic covers, however it does prevent rust a bit and improves the aerodynamics a bit.
Splash shield protects the engine from the debris and water, may help with aerodynamics. Covers and shields in general, depending on their purpose may help with water, impact or aerodynamics. Can be inconvenient but in the long run, its much better than a cel due to a corroded connector, scraped then rusted frame or broken oil pan.
Great video..thanks. While I appreciate the detail in fixing all the plastic tabs/push pins, why wouldn’t you clean up those rusty subframe bolts and apply some fluid film or anti-seize when reinstalling these major components?
2023 TACOMA Engine Mount - Hi there. My first ever Toyota! I purchased a brand new ‘23 Tacoma last February and with less than 3,500 miles I had to replace the driver side engine mount after hunting down an increasingly loud squeak/creak. After replacement the truck was back to new! However, I should’ve had the dealership replace them as a set because less than 2 ,500 miles later the passenger side became a squeaking/creaking issue. The dealership agreed that the issue was the already worn and cracked passenger side engine mount. Again, the replaced mount totally stopped the issue. I asked the service writer if there was any sort of service bulletin or an updated part number for the replacement mount. “No” on both questions. On the paperwork from the dealership I noticed that the tech replaced the passenger side mount but noted a noisy driver’s side mount and now that the passenger side has been quieter down I DEFINITELY hear the beginning of the same increasingly loud squeak/creak from the driver’s side. What’s going on with the Toyota engine mounts?!
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I replaced my engine/trans mounts on my 2005 Camry at 100,000 miles/17 years. The result was no more steering wheel vibration at 60 mph+ highway driving. I went OEM on all mounts.
We have the same car, thinking about changing the mounts got 125k sofar, little vibrations on steering wheel at 65mph. Good to know, thanks.
I agree with you last time I replaced was on a 15 year Corolla with 130k miles on it. Let me say it wasn’t fun and I was 5 years younger 😂I think I’ll let the next to the young guys even if it cost more. You have to pick your fights and this one I’ll pay for sure
Steering wheel vibration is my exact issue! Just hit 126,000 miles. I might need to do this
Do all you guys have a power lift, Like one in the video ❔️
@@TyroneMarcellyeah man i’ve started noticing it on my 15’ es350 with 125k miles. i might have to cop a new dog bone o
This is why engineers should be required to service and fix their own creation once or twice a year, then they will learn what a “masterpiece” they have created.
Difficult and specialized tools generate maximum dealer profits.
@@aussie2uGAi know right it’s great i get a lot of work as a chevy tech.
Competent engineers design bullshit because management tells them to. Either way it's management because an incompetent engineer also falls under their purview. The 3.5 is a large engine. You need a shoehorn and vaseline to get one in a Camry.
It’s the bean counter execs that have the final say to ridiculous design direction, it’s universal to most fields involving design. Engineers, architects, and artists are all at the mercy of the bean counters and their anti-consumer practices.
I'd agree and it's another reason Tesla has done so well - there are no rules to abide by, just engineer the highest tech they can.@@MrOiram46
This is real time, mechanic struggle/grind. Ive watch plenty of mechanic/how-to videos and they typically fast forward or skip the full demonstration of the most difficult part. Appreciate this in-depth video. 😊
Facts. Knowone will ever understand how you can a job one time fast and the next time it will put your sanity to the test.
Oh yes, Sir Mechanic is really very good on the spot, that's why I really enjoy watching him.
I am so impressed how you dealt with the front mount. No panic, just good logic. Job gets done, no blood, nothing torn up!
I'm so glad he included the struggle of removing the old front engine mount. Most videos stop at this point and begin again when the mount is already in
The hardest part of this job is not to drop the “f” word every 5 seconds
Never buy aftermarket radiators. They are Chinese crap and they are cheap for a reason.
AMAZING: My 2008 Camry had a weird vibration and TCCN replaced ALL with OEM mounts. Drives beautifully, purrs. I called this job "Cracker Jack" since there apparently were suprises inside. ADM is a superior perfectionist, drills down to find the root cause & resolve. It was an honor for TCCN to do this job, can't wait till he inspects my 2007 Highlander !!! BRAVO, how does the world clone your morality & ethics !!!
Lucky duck , good on ya mate 😎👌
I’m sure a number of people have already mentioned it but there is no substitute for OEM engine mounts. I changed the front engine mount and torque strut on my 2010 Camry using aftermarket mounts and was back to square one a year later. Yeah, the Toyota mounts cost more but they are still going strong 100,000miles later.
This is true. Plus all the scam places always try to do it knowing it's an easy money maker every time. This is why you always avoid quick lube places. They'll charge you $100 for an annual aftermarket dog one but you can get a $120 from the dealer and do it yourself and never again deal with it
You know f 3:09 or sure that the Toyota parts are exactly the right size which can be critical in some cases. Like most things the old saying " you get ehat you pay for " applies. I'm doing my front brakes and rotors. The Toyota parts are not much more than the few top quality aftermarket parts but I know that they will fit right and how long they will last. I have a Highlander I don't need semi metallic pads and drilled and slotted rotors.
@@LAactor😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
@@rluo22 I love toyota!
I really really appreciate this video not making it look super easy, your frustrations even as an experienced technician make it so relatable.
I had to disconnect those exact motor mounts to replace a bent lower control arm. They were rusty after 14 years but still intact. Thanks for showing how to replace all of them. So appreciated!
Answer: never! Engine mounts don't go bad on Toyotas... It's not a Ford! 😆
Welcome aboard!
The only mount that goes bad and develop cracks when it gets old is the "dog bone". The other 3 hardly ever go bad.
Your standard of repair and advice for us consumers are top shelf! Well done sir.
I absolutely appreciate your channel.
Only suggestion I have is that you wear safety glasses. Those safety squints are a little less effective.
I just booked an appointment with the Car Care Nut on December 21 to fix my back windshield shade on my Toyota Avalon. I’m excited and hope I don’t get star struck. 😂
Just tell him your blind and keep your eyes closed, this will help greatly with staying calm. This trick also works when getting pulled over, if the cop says "Are you seriously driving?", Follow up with "Yes!!, I just hope for the best". I guarantee 100% of the time... That will definitely not work. Happy Driving...Stevie Wonder 😬😁.
You will be surprised at the friendliness of Ahmed himself, Mrs CCN and everyone else at TCCN Automotive. Although I live 60 miles away I have already been there a few times and they will be my regular spot for most work.
@rossjohnson2478 where is he located at?
15:00-15:16: "Don't give up though..." -- I don't know who needs to hear this but this is the best advice you could get at a basic level. I can't tell you how many times I wanted to give up working on cars with rusted parts, rounded bolt heads and stuck brake drums. I forced myself to continue and I'm a better mechanic because of it. If you're new to turning a wrench (and I still consider myself very new) it's important to persevere. Be smart but intentional about troubleshooting difficult problems. Too many TH-cam videos out there mislead people into thinking everything just comes apart and back together without struggle. In my experience, there is ALWAYS struggle. Even outside the rust belt. I love this channel!
get a beater car you can fix stuff on and learn
Now I am not afraid of replacing Motor /Engine Mounts. Thanks for the video. (always).
You’re certainly have earned your Toyota strips as a master mechanic. As someone who works on his own 1998 Toyota Camry V6 with a manual E153 transmission purchased brand new, I’m looking for the lowest on-line cost provider with Toyota OEM parts, may I ask what’s your domestic Toyota parts source? I would love to set up a wholesale account with them.
TJM
Palm Beach Gardens FL
This guy is the best as well as having patience from God. I do enjoy his videos
I guess I'm just weird. As you were removing the covers on that lexus, with each cover that came off, the better I liked it. I took the cover off of my Avalon as soon as I bought it, that was 15 years ago. I like the look of the engine, and I like to hear the engine sounds. Especially when I'm leaning on the gas pedal. That engine sound is like angels singing to me.
Instead of plugging hoses with a bolt to prevent dripping, try a golf tee. The taper allows you to give a little push and usually holds without any clamp.
Yes bec most mechs play golf😅
@@RoySki007 Maybe they do, people say golf is frustrating but golf is probably relaxing by comparison to being a mechanic
@@theredscourgethey also cost alot to play
@@RoySki007 *Indeed true. The ones I know golf regularly and have done so for decades. Golf instills thought, planning, patience, focus and concentration. Just depends upon where you work and who you work for. Cheers!*
@@mojakhaha*Membership is usually optional and greens fees are relative. Cheers!*
I have the exact car. Does anyone have the part numbers used?
I replaced all the mounts in my lexus rx400h because it had 200k miles. My after-market mounts are garbage compared to my old lexus mounts with 200k. So don't do my mistake.
If you have to drop the sub-frame anyway, would it be a good idea to replace the rubber isolation bushings at those mount points, too?
If you got em sure, he just didn't do it so as to keep the cost low for this particular customer.
Seems unnecessary to me. If it ain't broke..
Don't break it by putting an aftermarket in that will crumble in short time.
thats a very good idea....🤔
I sell thousands of aftermarket motor mounts every month. I’ve been doing it for 7 years. I use them in my car too. Here’s what I’ve learned:
ALL VEHICLES ARE DIFFERENT, but the general lifespan is about 6 years. Some people get 2, others get 10. A few get much more out of the less important mounts. My 97 Honda Civic still has the original rear engine mount and transmission mount, and they are still in good shape. The others need replacement after approximately 5 years.
OEM is *almost* always the best you can get, but depending on the vehicle brand, you could pay dearly for them. For many DIYers, OEM may not be worth the cost IF the job is easy. If you take your car to the mechanic and pay for labor, the only way I’d recommend aftermarket is if the shop buys the mount on their account and guarantees the work. Let the mechanic deal with the warranty. Their suppliers can get the parts faster, and labor is covered. Sometimes aftermarket is the better deal, but make sure to factor in labor costs!
OEM lasts longer than aftermarket. Nothing wrong with aftermarket , but it depends on how much you’re willing to spend and how easy or hard the job is because you probably will change it sooner. In Mitsubishi’s case, we’ve had people with 2 year old vehicles with ALL broken OEM mounts already and it became a normal occurrence. In that case, just buy aftermarket 😂. OEM Toyota/Lexus mounts are good quality.
We rarely have complaints about excessive vibration from any engine bigger than a 4 cylinder. V6 and V8 engines are just naturally smoother.
You can get away with replacing 1 mount, as long as you didn’t drive your car for years (which most people do anyways) with the bad mount. This ruins the other mounts.
Almost every car will wear out the main engine mount first, which is closest to the timing cover. For Toyota/Lexus and Honda/Acura, the front mount. The mount in this location usually bears most of the weight and torque, hence why it wears faster.
Your driving style MATTERS. Flooring it from a stoplight (obviously) puts a lot of stress on your mounts.
If oil is leaking directly onto your mounts, they absolutely will not last very long at all. Fix the leak.
If you are tightening a bolt that is embedded into the rubber, don’t drive it down with damn impact! If you stretch or twist the rubber while tightening the bolt, the mount will stiffen up and cause vibration issues.
If you drive a luxury car, I would also think twice about aftermarket mounts. If you are picky/particular about your ride, just spend the money and get OEM.
Electric cars have drive unit (motor) mounts too. Not sure of how often they need to be replaced(don’t have much experience with them yet), but they do fail.
I have Question, i have 2010 corolla and the mounts wear Quickly , i replaced passenger engine mounts twice and the Gearbox mount also failed , Does bad roads have any thing to do with mounts? Because i live in a country with very dumpy roads .
@@MohammedJobori Rough roads on a transversely mounted engine in the Corolla can definitely affect the lifespan of the engine mounts.. Gearbox mount for a 2010 Corolla is common. I get orders for just that mount quite often.....much more often than gearbox mounts for other makes/models, so that's normal for that specific car. The passenger's side mount is the main mount, and it normally wears faster than the other mounts, however you should get at least 5 years of use without issue.
AMD, I can't believe you got another LS 430. 🤣I think the car you are fixing is my favourite colour for the ES 350 . Stay Classy Lexus!!🤩🤩
I love the fact that you fixed his clips. Most mechanics lose the clips and don't replace them. Do you know the part number for the clips in the engine bay on a 2015 gs350. I need some because their missing.
I'm getting frustrated just watching you fighting that first mount. That's why I only work on my vehicles anymore if I absolutely have to as my patience has waned as I get old.
I have a 91 vzn130 4runner with 467,000 k's and still runs like a dream. It also has the original engine mounts which are still fine. I can still balance a 50 cent coin on edge on the motor while it's idling. Love my Toyotas. Regular service is the key.
Leaking engine oil causes the rubber on the mounts to deteriorate.
Having to rebuild the front end on my 14 Sienna with 190k miles. Since I am replacing the lower control arms, I am debating replacing motor mounts while I am already in there. Great video.
What do you think about putting (spraying or penseling) a very little CRC 3.36 anti corrosion fluid onto electrical low voltage (12Vdc) pins and bushes in plugs and recepticles to prevent (resolve) corrosion, and enhance electrical conductance ?
I do this all the time. Sometimes use a contact cleaner called
You wet wash the vehicles? Why not use a dry wash detailer product to remove light shop dust.. or one of those "California duster" soft light wax coated brushes that limo drivers use to keep their rides shiny..
Or even just a thin plastic cover. A shop by me does that for longer term vehicles. Save all that labor time and getting wet and making the shop damp. Just some things I thought of a few days after seeing this.
Thank you for being so humble while doing such professional job to teach all of us. 🙏
I am so happy I found this channel. It is a great pleasure to watch, I don't even know how many videos I have already binge-watched :) Thanks for all the great informative content and a pleasant presentation. I wish you all the best.
Yeah, the motor mounts I paid $70 for set of 5 or 6 on my 2002 Honda Odyssey were not as good as OEM, more vibration, but better than the worn out OEM and lasted over 100,000 miles. But now my engine is jumping again like it did with OEM. Considering I have cam noise, rusty body, leaking cooling system, surging idle, worn tires, death airbags (don't trust it the hour drive to dealer), 285,000 miles on it with original driveline, I just bought another $70 set to get me by, but I'd go OEM with a good car.
I had a 12 ft ladder to do stuff needed at the top. And used some of the harder ear plugs to squish in the lines and hoses to stop the smaller flow.
That customer will really appreciate the job u did. It'll feel like a new car! Now, dumb question: Where do u u buy your clips from? Toyota? How many different sizes? Can we buy bags of them? I see they do on Amazon but never coŕrect. Thanks!👍
Toyota.
Nice to see the honest struggles and trics / mentality explained through the job! Thanks! I'm just starting to learn and did small fixes like rotors and water pump + pipes on my LR4. It's very educative to see you work even if I don't hown a Toyota. Keep it up and Cheers!
"in the mechanic world, this is called, "you gotta pay your dues."" not a mechanic, but that saying perfectly explains WHY i have nothing but problems when i try to work on my car.
I can't seem to lead a horse to water without getting it on top of the outhouse at least once, so I know what you're saying.
While working from underneath have you ever had rust particles falling into your eyes?
Your shop is so clean it could be used as an operating room. Great content as usual.
"You can tell it is the end of the day....Starting to throw stuff." My friend, I have to tell you that I have whole weeks like that hehe.
what you just described about the motor mounts on a corolla, is EXACTLY what i am going through... once i have money in the bank, im having the shop replace all of them, i had just the two replaced a year or so ago, and been struggling with vibrations since
What was the full cost of that job ?
My guess is $1500 to $1800 as Toyota mounts are not cheap and I'm thinking he charged 2 -> 3 hrs labor.
I’m sad to report that all my local Toyota dealers are charging roughly the same price to replace my cv axle boot as an entire axle. About $750 to $1,100
Therefore I’ve decided to continue driving in the perfectly good axle (with a small leak) until it completely falls apart.
At least then I can justify a $1000 repair bill
@@efil4kizum they would do it for a very high price. Almost the same as replacing the entire axle assembly
Wow so much appreciated video I have the same car 09 and I feel smooth vibration but in the steering wheel and when I turn the steering wheel right or left is like better the vibration go any suggestions thanks for the video
Thank you AMD another great video. What happened to Jose recording you, seems you were tripoding the majority of the video till the end, lol. Fantastic info and great detailed.
Amd, could you give us an approximate or book cost for these repairs in the future?
We always take our Camry into the dealerships (moved a lot) with the exception of blinker lights and the battery. It is at 200K (mostly highway miles) and the only "surpises" are a TPM and the passenger side airbags going out. This is on a 2015 Camry LE & we storm chase, so that might give you an idea of what it has been through lol.
We are thinking about a new vehicle and I am leaning toward the Grand Highlander or maybe a Sienna for the added hauling capacity.
Thank you for your well thought shot and thought out videos!
Where can I but a bunch of genuine Toyota clips to have on hand when working on my vehicles?" Do them make a pack of them? The dealership wants dollars for each one.
Why were there electrical connectors on the passenger side mount? Is the sensors in the mount? Great video, thanks.
it's probably for something else like ABS or speed sensor, they probably just clip on to the mount as a place to secure it so it doesn't move much
Thank you for the great video. Very detailed, great video quality and you have a calming way of presenting the information. I have a 2003 Camry with 76K miles (I'm the original owner). I just noticed the bushing on the torque strut is partially cracked. When I put it in gear, I do see some rocking. So I plan on replacing that. My question is, what is the likelihood that the other mounts are bad since it's a low-mileage car and has been driven responsibly? Other than removing the other mounts and wagging the top bolt around, how else can I determine if they are bad (e.g. install a new strut and see how the difference in how the engine responds, etc.). Thanks again for the A - grade video.
As always very informative video. I liked the tour of the shop with various problems of different cars.
You mentioned making new brake lines. Perhaps that's a good future video you can make on making new brake lines.
We finally replaced ours on our 2008 RX400h at 175k. After replacing it, made us realize we could have done it a few thousand miles earlier :)
One question, why you don't use torque wrench?
My Honda has 4 motormounts and 3 transmission mounts. Took me such a long time to discover it was the motormounts that were giving me accelleration and highway vibrations.
But I did not buy OEM replacements. They were 900 euro's. Yeah no thanks.
I don't believe you told us what the specific symptoms are, or perhaps I missed it. I have a 2001 Camry with 60k miles. Is it due?
I have a 33 year old Toyota Land Cruiser, 200'000 miles, maybe I should change mine!
To be honest I have only owned it for 12 years so they may have been done before. I have done the transmission mount.
100% agree with the quality of Toyota mounts, really well made. The quality of rubber has huge variations.
I unfortunately definitely agree with using OEM mounts. The same applies to Honda and Hyundai, from my experience. The aftermarket mounts are just not quite manufactured to spec and cause problems more often than not. You may be able to get away with using one or two aftermarket, but especially any hydraulically controlled ones for vibration dampening during idle, they need to be OEM.
As of today, 12.6.2023, I replaced my mother’s 2009 Highlander all struts and everything else(OEM parts )except the springs. I was very surprised that some of the parts were still good after 15 years in the car.
not even aftermarket brakes, they warp. unless they are oem brand
Replaced 3 sets of brakes and rotors of my 2012 Rav4 in 2 years. Now with OEM and they are fine
@@WW-bf8sz good aftermarket brakes exist, many of the oem toyota discs do not come with rust protection
That engine lasted 184k... With crappy maintenance.
Just think if it were maintained properly...
I know this will sound stupid, but Where can I buy original clips for my Toyota t25? When I look on internet, I am literally bombed with after-market clips with the wrong diameters and lengths.
So I just finished this job on a 2003 Highlander Limited V6. The 2003 Highlander Limited does have a rear mount that needs to also be unbolted in order to get enough engine lift to replace the passenger side mount. Thanks Amd for this video.
My 2013 Camry has 161k on the original engine mounts. No signs of failure
That’s crazy and almost unbelievable 😂 you have great vehicle for sure
@@tbone4075 highway miles may bring up the number on your odometer but they sure do leave you with a less worn out vehicle. I’ve been in newer Toyotas used as Ubers and Taxis in major cities and they may have lower miles but they sure are worn out a lot quicker
Very good afternoon, I want to thank you for making this kind of videos. I know you are a Toyota expert and I have a problem with my 2012 Toyota PRIUS, antifreeze is getting into cylinder number two. I already have the vehicle parked and I do not want to damage it further and my question is to you as an expert and since I have watched your videos how you explain things, I would like to ask you please for advice on the vehicle, I like the vehicle and I want to repair it, which would be the best option to rebuild the engine or just buy the new block from the agency, as I have seen in your Videos and I appreciate your honest response. Thank you in advance and may you and your family be very well.😊😊😊😊
awesome video and you take pride in what you do 👍🏽
My Tacoma has 140 k and had a clunk since day one….the pass side is very hard to see…but might have a crack…but I do not know if it has sagged or failed….I’m on w coast…no rust….
One time I replace Corolla engine mounts with aftermarket and that was one hell of a mistake.
What happened?
@@chris103193 Engine vibrated like a freaking old lawn mower, as if i had installed hockey pucks instead.
I replaced mine on a 2006 Corolla and it worked great. Maybe you didn’t get good ones
@@tbone4075 Mine was 1998. Diff engine perhaps. Or they got me real shitty ones, but listen to what the host says, NOT to buy after market ones.
@@pedrofernandez8729 yeah I really like this host and have been following since the beginning. I guess it all depends as my Corolla was a real beater but kept going. It a big difference when you replace for sure. The rocking of the engine can really get out of control. Did you end up replacing with OEM or did you just get another order? I would use after market again if it was my vehicle 🚗
You can also remove it from top. He took non diy way the feont mount. For diy folks you can remove from above just loose radiator holding frame and push out few inches and if u can fan
Removing subframe is not a typical diy who do not have lift...
Hi AMD, i bought aftermarket made in Japan motor mounts for my 1997 corolla (car is too old so aftermarket makes sense) for 105 dollars. its been 6 months so far and its doing great.
you are amazing! what expertise i wish i could bring my 2004 camry to you
I would love to go OEM, except for that pesky NATIONWIDE BACKORDER on parts!
Yeah the only aftermarket parts I use on Toyota is I like the Akebono brake pads. I don't even use aftermarket windshield wiper blades.
My 2023 corolla has a vibration at 1200 rpm. I wonder if the oem rear mount is no good. What do u think?
Had the engine mounts of my '08 ES350 (192K miles) replaced this year. The shop I use automatically uses after market parts without asking
if I want OEM. Doesn't seem right.
The best video I've ever seen in youtube. Thanks sir. and I am really enjoy your show. /Sincerely
I've got a 98 2 door rav4 cabrio and im excited to learn if the excess vibration is due to those mounts. Thank you as always 🙏
still have OEM mounts and waterpump on my 2012 Highlander 3.5L with 162K on it. Still runs smooth as silk.
AMD said replace them all as a unit, but he also said the torque mount wears out and then degrades the other mounts. To me that means it’s better to replace the torque mount first provided the others are ok. The question is how to judge their condition? I expect you could use a pry bar to check how much they move, and could use a floor jack to jack up the engine a bit and see how much play they have.
I wonder how rusted those frame rails are on the inside? 🤢🤢🤢
I liked the shop tour. It’s like some kid’s prized hot wheels collection (except for the sienna lol).
Whilst I enjoy your Videos and your right 99% of the time. The comment you made about not using aftermarket DENSO parts is absolute rubbish & bullsh*t 5:04 Denso makes OEM MAFs for Toyota as well a many other OEM parts for Toyota & many other car Manufacturers. Paying less for the exact same part in a Denso Box rather than paying more for a Toyota box. Toyota does not make every part on their cars and uses companies like DENSO to supply them.
this is true but mechanics like to charge extra on genuine parts they’re biased he also thinks its best if he works on your car not doing it yourself
Ford owners never have to worry about replacing motor mounts. Ford engines will fail way before the motor mounts wear out.
I want to see motor mounts replacement for rav4 2015 awd and 2007 highlander 2 wd
Great video,but should this engine mounts has a certain torque value on those bolt?I do my own car and dirtbike maintains and always follow the repair manual to torque engine and chasis bolts,or my gear of OCD would be triggered.😐
As alway,once I finish torking a bolt or nut or a set of them,I mark them with a line of paint,job could be done wrong if you deal with too many bolts and nuts,just my 2 cents of poor mechanic skill that make myself sleep well.
You said @1:45 one has a pin and one does not have a pin but the picture was too small to see what you meant by a pin. Is there a pin whole in the engine mount or is something like a pin sticking out of it?
29:26 “Celebrating early” 😂 In our shop we call it “spiking the football too soon” 😅
I've bought third party motor mounts and he's right. They're crap. The Toyota mounts are a LOT more expensive, but the cheap ones last a few months and then you're right back where you started. Just bite the bullet and get the Toyota mounts, and save yourself a lot of work.
You nailed it!!! 👍
An hour video on engine mounts?
Yep!
Great video , very informative , i have two of these ES 350s , one is same color Matador Red and another one is Black . Thank you for sharing your experience .
I just replaced my motor mounts on my 1999 V6 Camry at 304k miles. It does have a rear mount which is a royal pain to replace. Cutting the rear bracket on the rear mount in two was essential. Now car drives like new and pulls like a mule!
when u replace the front mount ,why not replace the tranny mount at the same time when the frame still hanging
"Adapt, overcome, improvise, ziptie" - Sgt Gunny "Highway"
Work in cars with bottoms full of corrosion is a real pita. Hats off to you.
Hello AMD,
As always enjoy your presentation, count my good fortune as a Toyota Hilux owner. I never tire of the great service it renders and rugged build,
Yes it will likely outlast me as I'm 74 and it being a 2016 with 79,500 km on the odometer. I only wish I'd bought on 20 yrs ago.
My comment today is the plastic covers/shields underneath Toyotas/most all European stuff. Do you think this crap is necessary? No my Hilux is not encumbered by such, thank goodness. Again thanks for the always great presentation. God bless and keep you. LWC
not necessary, and causes more road noise when you drive over a road with debris or little rocks all over it due to them flicking around and hitting the plastic covers, however it does prevent rust a bit and improves the aerodynamics a bit.
Splash shield protects the engine from the debris and water, may help with aerodynamics. Covers and shields in general, depending on their purpose may help with water, impact or aerodynamics. Can be inconvenient but in the long run, its much better than a cel due to a corroded connector, scraped then rusted frame or broken oil pan.
I’m from the SW …what’s that rusty looking stuff on the frame?
😂
Why am I watching him remove the front mount and I'm cursing up a storm in my head 😠 😡 😆 🤣 and he is so calm
I appreciate you putting in full effort to attach the dust covers correctly even though they came in wrong.
Thank you very much for this video.
Toyota O2 sensor = Denso O2 sensor with Toyota logo
*Correct!*
Great video..thanks. While I appreciate the detail in fixing all the plastic tabs/push pins, why wouldn’t you clean up those rusty subframe bolts and apply some fluid film or anti-seize when reinstalling these major components?
2023 TACOMA Engine Mount -
Hi there. My first ever Toyota! I purchased a brand new ‘23 Tacoma last February and with less than 3,500 miles I had to replace the driver side engine mount after hunting down an increasingly loud squeak/creak. After replacement the truck was back to new! However, I should’ve had the dealership replace them as a set because less than 2 ,500 miles later the passenger side became a squeaking/creaking issue. The dealership agreed that the issue was the already worn and cracked passenger side engine mount. Again, the replaced mount totally stopped the issue. I asked the service writer if there was any sort of service bulletin or an updated part number for the replacement mount. “No” on both questions. On the paperwork from the dealership I noticed that the tech replaced the passenger side mount but noted a noisy driver’s side mount and now that the passenger side has been quieter down I DEFINITELY hear the beginning of the same increasingly loud squeak/creak from the driver’s side. What’s going on with the Toyota engine mounts?!