I've used the FluidMaster twice. About 6 years ago and just recently about a week ago for a new toilet I just put in. I am just a homeowner, not a plumber or professional. Went on easy and they work great.
We installed a Danco Perfect Seal. Our flange was on top of our flooring, as most have recommended, removed the blue gasket and black liner inside the lower gasket and it still wobbled. We ended up using a standard wax ring (vs a jumbo) and installed sit flush. Buyer beware of the Danco perfect seal. Always dry fit the toilet to see if it sits flush also. Hope this helps others. And thanks for sharing this informative video! Very helpful.
I did not understand what you did. It sounds like you did not have much stuff on the flange, but your toilet wobbles because your flange is the toilets main point of contact because it is so high. This is a difficult thing to figure out: what is the gap between the toilet horn and the flange, and how much stuff do I need to put in there to make a secure passage from toilet to pipe. Even though you think you have no stability issues now, I would put some shims under the toilet to resist motion as the wax ring settles and gets squished flat.
One thing I have learned over the years and no licensed plumber will tell you because they don't do it is coat the bolts with never seize. Years later you can remove the nuts without any problem at all. I use it on anything exposed to water and weather or heat.
I used 3 of this waxless seal by Danco. Works like charm. Just hope it'll last long time. Using this on a new one piece toilet it did not take long from start to finish.😍😍
Here is how I see it. I am not a plumber but I've been in HVAC for long enough to have spoken with so many plumbers. I always ask them what they prefer, wax or wax less. Plumbers always use wax because it works. They can guarantee wax. I've heard some plumbers say that they will install what the customer asks for but the warranty will depend on weather its wax or not. If plumbers do wax all day long, so will I. Again, I'm no plumber the everyone around me fancys me as a handy man and I've done a fair amount of wax replacements. No issues so far.
I guess it's just me but l see too many jobs by D.I.Y. folks not fully cleaning surfaces to ensure n even 360° smooth area and also plugging up the sewer pipe hole to avoid both allowing sewer gas seeping out and stinking up the house and also preventing tools, hardware and debris falling into the drain pipe.
I installed the Danco perfect seal today. My flange is flush with the floor so I didn’t use the extension. So far so good. The toilet sits as solid as before with no rocking. It stopped the slight leak I had from the wax ring failing after 10+ years. I watched your video to see if you did your Danco install differently but was disappointed to see you install the Fluidmaster instead.
Put a little safe gasket grease or O ring grease on the grey or blue seal and the toilet horn will slide in easy ..if not the grey seal can bend when the horn makes contact with the seal and get a improper flush seal...u can do it while you have the toilet on it side u can tell how easy it slides with grease vs without it
For folks that have flanges above the floor, do not waist your time with perfect seal. I installed one today and even though i removed the extension and the black ring in it, it wouldn’t settle. Put back the jumbo wax and it settled fine
I put in 3 of the same toilet for my cousin. Never really did a toilet. I bought the blue Fluidmaster you used & the red Korky one, tried the blue one, the flange was 1/2" above floor, even removing spacers felt toilet was too high, whereas with wax you can put weight on toilet and get the wax to squish down, pulled it off & used the red Korky removing the thicker spacer, worked better, still had to shim. Then put in 2 more & on one used the Danco one you showed (that toilet had the flange a bit below the floor) that had wax in it, that was pretty good. Tried the Fluidmaster again on one and rejected it, used the Korky. Terry Love, a master plumber who runs the Terry Love Plumbing Forum, still says use wax. I think in hindsight I would use wax, I think ideally if floor is level you want the entire base of toilet to rest on floor, since you can't tighten the flange bolts too much. With these waxless rings, they don't compress enough to get the toilet to rest on floor. Sure, you can shim, but that's not ideal. Another issue is, good thing on one I pulled the toilet before tightening bolts & saw that the thin rubber that went down into the waste pipe had caught and folded up, good thing I saw that or would have been an obstruction to flush. You would not have that issue w/a wax ring.
Thanks For Sharing! That Recess At The Ring and Bolts Is About 7/8” Deep On My Kohler Elliston, I Believe That Would Be The Critical Measurement, Since The Outer Base Edge Would Hit The Floor And Limit Any Further Compression Of Wax Ring. If Flange Is Any Higher Than 7/8” Above The Floor, Than Toilet Weight Will Be On The Flange/Pipe and Likely Wobble Needing Shims/Support... #YourRecessMayBegToDiffer #YourToiletRecessMayVary 🚽 #NotAPlumberInRealLife 🕳🦸♂️
Frank-You are SPOT on about the wax free rings! I went thru 3 of them and my toilet STILL wobbled and to use shims was ridiculous! I ended up using a wax ring and will do so from now on!
Agreed. I also used the fluidmaster once to try on my house. I removed the toilet a few months later to check how tight it was holding and found the the plastic funnel had turned upwards somehow and was catching a small amount of water. It didn't leak but I was not happy with that and could recommend them because of that issue.
i think Danco one, when used properly is good. I've used it time to time, but 80% of the time, i use the thick, extra wax ring, regardless how high or low the flange is, i just like that extra wax lol
See, that's where most people just don't care about little details like that. I have severe OCD and I always pay attention to little details like what you're talking about. I had to replace two toilets in a house I bought back in 2014. My wife thought I was wasting so much time by cleaning the wall behind the tank. I also cleaned all the excessive wax around the flange of the floor so everything would be nice and neat. But yeah, most people today just don't give a damn. They slap something on good enough for it to work and that's it. Details to me are everything.
Remove the water tank from the toilet, so it is easier to remove it and re install. (less weight and easier to lower the toilet onto the seal gasket). Also you may want to clean the tiles around the toilet drain before installing the toilet.
Im a few years late watching this. I have used the perfect seal on both my toilets and they worked good. I have since sold that home and we are buying another home that is older and i will be needing to update the bathroom for sure and so im just refreshing my memory on the toilet seals. Im hopeing i dont have a cast iron piping. I didnt get in the crawl space of the house. I asked the inspector and he said my stack was cast but there was some pvc. Im hopeing the toilet drain has been udated ive heard they can be difficult to mess with. Anyways thanks for the vid.
How did that Better than Wax work for you after 18 months? According to the instructions you probably should have used the spacer too. The spacer is meant to lift the blue plastic high enough that it makes firm contact with the toilet porcelain, then compressed when you place the toilet weight on top. I’ve got exactly the same combination as you had in your video; wax, Perfect Seal, and better than wax. I’m leaning towards the Perfect Seal.
Just installed a Danco and was meticulous in cleaning and proper installation. 10 minutes later, its leaking out of the back. Heading back to the store for a wax ring. Thanks for your video.
Those things are not often easy to install. If you are off just slightly when setting the toilet down, it could result in a leak. Luckily for me, I was able to get it sealed properly on the first try.
I stand corrected, the seal worked perfectly. The leak was actually coming from the tank. It must have moved slightly off the bowl when I leaned it back to clean. Thankfully I used blue ty-d-bowl and found the blue water coming from above before I pulled the toilet up again!
@@bentstruments Good on you for coming back and setting the record straight. Still happy with the Danco? I purchased the Next Perfect Seal and a traditional wax ring still trying to decide which to use.
@@flannelguydiy6458 I was looking all over TH-cam for how to change a toilet seal and watched several videos. I found yours and it made so easy and made a lot of sense!
My brass mounting flange is not round and does not sit level. It is flush and up to 3/16 above the floor. I tried the Fluid Master and it would not work in any configuration even removed the foam and tried the black spacer to add a little height. I went with the Danco. If there is a problem I will try the korky brand.
It look literally 60 seconds to do it with the sponge. To bring the shop vac into the bathroom, turn it on, take it outside to dump the water, let the vacuum dry out, etc... it is actually easier to use the sponge. I like the fact that you are thinking creatively though. Really appreciate you watching!
Suģgest you acquire a shop vac. Vac the water from tank and bowl. Takes about 45 sec and no water clean up. A ratchet box end wrench in 7/16 and 1/2 inch is also a very handy tool. À vibrating saw with metal blade is ideal to cut off rusty bolts.
yes I know all about the shop vac. However, by the time you open the shop vac to remove the filter so it can be used with water, carry it down to a bathroom, suck up the water, carry the shop vac outside to dump it, then replace the filter... it is actually MUCH faster to use a large sponge and a bucket. It was about five squeezes with that large sponge and it was done.
It’s easier to maneuver the toilet if you disassemble the top off the bowl..then you can have more accuracy setting the bowl down and not wrench your back out too..
sure it would be lighter, but extra steps that I preferred not to take. Plus the bolts holding the tank to the bowl were rusted a bit and that could have opened up a whole other can of worms
@@flannelguydiy6458 just as easy to disassemble and replace those too..especially if they do look rusted, why ignore it and wait for a possible leak? Replacing all seals, gaskets and hardware at least keeps it all fresh and on the same schedule..you have to drain the whole thing regardless.. I had to bust out the Dremel to cut a bolt off that was completely rusted, I’m vowing to replace the whole lot long before I allow it to happen again..
I see that you used the Fluidmaster, I didn't see any wax on this one. Is there one that has wax? Also, did you try the Danco? The Danco Perfect Seal still has a wax ring, it's just that the wax doesn't touch the toilet.
Very good video, Flannel Guy. I would have liked to see you do a dry fit of the BLUE part on to the toilet horn to give us an idea what the fit looks like. I thought that the idea was for the toilet horn to fit down INTO the blue thing, maybe deforming the inner part downward a little bit, and for the outer circumference of the blue ring to fit up against the bottom of the toilet around the horn (which is what a wax ring does, and that is what I thought we were going for with this blue ring thing). When I did the test fit on my toilet I found that the horn of my new toilet (Toto) contacts top of the blue ring, but it could not fit inside down into the diameter of the blue ring, even by stretching it. I used a flange extender ring to simulate the toilet/flange-ring junction, and I could not get the blue thing to seat on the horn without distorting the blue thing. There was no way to manipulate the blue thing to get the it to move any higher on the toilet horn. The only point of contact would be the thin edge of the toilet horn contacting the blue thing, but not fitting down into it. It looked like the blue ring would have distorted and not sealed. If the horn on my toilet was a smaller diameter and tapered then it would work, but I didn't feel like grinding the horn on toilet (!!). This meant that the blue thing's surface would not contact the bottom of the toilet around the horn. I have read that the size of the toilet horn varies but I have no experience with that. I recommend doing a dry fit to see what your junction will look like.
R Y , I know exactly what you're saying about the blue ring not fitting over the toilet horn. The fact is this particular seal is NOT UNIVERSAL. I couldn't get to set properly over the horn, nor could I get the toilet to set flush to the floor no matter how I tried. I ended up using a Sani Seal gasket instead without any issue.
@@ChrisGilliamOffGrid My Bro-in-law (40yr plumber) said to use clear silicone adhesive to chauk the toilet around the bottom of rim, helps to seal and level.
@@ChrisGilliamOffGrid Thanks Chris , it’s like you made that video for me! I haven’t installed yet so I’ll check out your directions. I!m installing white over black tile floor so the clear product is the charm. I,ve seen another vid where the chalk was applied to the underside rim of the toilet just befor setting it which makes sense to fill the grout gaps underneath the rim. Your Vid technique seems simpler. Probably do both.
For your viewers: From the start of the video, you want to take that black plastic away, the ring should pop out, you do not want to install your toilet on top of that plastic, you gonna have some interesting problems. Also I would put down some protective rubber mats and wear some gloves. You're dealing with poop and that can cause some serious health issues.
As much as it causes me pain to say, you probably just saved some poor sap a lot of work. If that's the case they should just use it for a watering dish for their cat and call a professional🤣
My buddy has been a plumber for 35 years and all he uses is wax rings he swears by them also if you take the tank off it would be a whole lot easier because it weighs less
So far so good. Flushes well with no clogs. I happened to look beneath the area of the toilet in the crawl space below two days ago and there are no leaks at all
Great video and explanation but NO GLOVES flannel guy! 😳Oh man, I'll follow your advice but don't invite me to dinner, and I wont be shaking your hand either 😢
I'll add my experience with the new tech ring seals. The "better than wax" seal failed after 7 years. The rubber seal had become hard and brittle and began to leak, a lot. I replaced that with a "perfect seal" that was recommended by the big box plumber guy, which is a hybrid wax/rubber seal. That began to leak in a few days. I discovered the rubber seal had compressed on one side, and never popped up, leaving a gap...which leaked. Even after multiple attempts, I could never get it to seal properly. So, back to the old school plain jane wax ring. No leaks after several months. And still no leaks from my other toilets that have all wax ring seal after over 20 years. I should've known better. Oh, wear some throw away gloves, like nitryl mechanics gloves.
I cant believe you just put that toilet down without cleaning up that nasty crud that was under there, including the old caulk which is why its not particularly stable.
After draining the water out of the tank finish getting all the water out of the tank and toilet with your SHOP VAC. Of course, remove your paper filter and make sure the vac is empty and not filled with dirt, etc. So much tidier.
it is way easier to use the sponge. By the time I open the shop vac and dump out the debis that is there, remove the filter, bring it into the house, then dump the water, let it dry out before putting it away. Too much BS and the sponge is done in about 60 seconds.
If you have to replace your toilet bolts wouldn’t you have to remove the toilet to do that? In that case you would need to replace the wax ring anyway, wouldn’t you? 😳
The first thing I would have put on my hands would be a glove I don't mess with a toilet I don't care if it's spit shine I'm putting a sponge in a commode with your bare hands I just don't see that
@@flannelguydiy6458 protective gloves, laytex or other gloves is what I was talking about! Some ppl wear them but in some videos they are not! Then there was one video a person was wearing those garden gloves the ones you wear if dealing with wite and needle noses!
I've used the FluidMaster twice. About 6 years ago and just recently about a week ago for a new toilet I just put in. I am just a homeowner, not a plumber or professional. Went on easy and they work great.
We installed a Danco Perfect Seal. Our flange was on top of our flooring, as most have recommended, removed the blue gasket and black liner inside the lower gasket and it still wobbled. We ended up using a standard wax ring (vs a jumbo) and installed sit flush. Buyer beware of the Danco perfect seal. Always dry fit the toilet to see if it sits flush also. Hope this helps others. And thanks for sharing this informative video! Very helpful.
I did not understand what you did. It sounds like you did not have much stuff on the flange, but your toilet wobbles because your flange is the toilets main point of contact because it is so high. This is a difficult thing to figure out: what is the gap between the toilet horn and the flange, and how much stuff do I need to put in there to make a secure passage from toilet to pipe.
Even though you think you have no stability issues now, I would put some shims under the toilet to resist motion as the wax ring settles and gets squished flat.
@@yru435 There is no wax ring in the Fluidmaster seal that he installed.
Excellent video! One of the most articulately explaned videos i've seen!
thank you!
One thing I have learned over the years and no licensed plumber will tell you because they don't do it is coat the bolts with never seize. Years later you can remove the nuts without any problem at all. I use it on anything exposed to water and weather or heat.
I always use a wet/dry shopvac to get my extra water out work great . good video
Glad it helped....now you can help me by sharing this video on Facebook
I used 3 of this waxless seal by Danco. Works like charm. Just hope it'll last long time. Using this on a new one piece toilet it did not take long from start to finish.😍😍
that's great thanks for watching
This is the best video on toilet seals. Thanks man
Had installed the FluidMaster, gas was escaping. Switched to Waxed Ring all good!!!
Thanks for the info! Seal is always a Challenge for me. But seems alot easier after watching this!
Thanks for watching Ryan
@@flannelguydiy6458 have you tried the danco?
Here is how I see it. I am not a plumber but I've been in HVAC for long enough to have spoken with so many plumbers. I always ask them what they prefer, wax or wax less. Plumbers always use wax because it works. They can guarantee wax. I've heard some plumbers say that they will install what the customer asks for but the warranty will depend on weather its wax or not. If plumbers do wax all day long, so will I. Again, I'm no plumber the everyone around me fancys me as a handy man and I've done a fair amount of wax replacements. No issues so far.
wax works... but people are always looking for an alternative
@@flannelguydiy6458 That's silly. Wax works. Wax is cheap. Why seek alternatives?
I guess it's just me but l see too many jobs by D.I.Y. folks not fully cleaning surfaces to ensure n even 360° smooth area and also plugging up the sewer pipe hole to avoid both allowing sewer gas seeping out and stinking up the house and also preventing tools, hardware and debris falling into the drain pipe.
I installed the Danco perfect seal today. My flange is flush with the floor so I didn’t use the extension. So far so good. The toilet sits as solid as before with no rocking. It stopped the slight leak I had from the wax ring failing after 10+ years. I watched your video to see if you did your Danco install differently but was disappointed to see you install the Fluidmaster instead.
same..as I sit here w a Danco and 2 wax rings :)
Put a little safe gasket grease or O ring grease on the grey or blue seal and the toilet horn will slide in easy ..if not the grey seal can bend when the horn makes contact with the seal and get a improper flush seal...u can do it while you have the toilet on it side u can tell how easy it slides with grease vs without it
For folks that have flanges above the floor, do not waist your time with perfect seal. I installed one today and even though i removed the extension and the black ring in it, it wouldn’t settle. Put back the jumbo wax and it settled fine
I put in 3 of the same toilet for my cousin. Never really did a toilet. I bought the blue Fluidmaster you used & the red Korky one, tried the blue one, the flange was 1/2" above floor, even removing spacers felt toilet was too high, whereas with wax you can put weight on toilet and get the wax to squish down, pulled it off & used the red Korky removing the thicker spacer, worked better, still had to shim. Then put in 2 more & on one used the Danco one you showed (that toilet had the flange a bit below the floor) that had wax in it, that was pretty good. Tried the Fluidmaster again on one and rejected it, used the Korky. Terry Love, a master plumber who runs the Terry Love Plumbing Forum, still says use wax. I think in hindsight I would use wax, I think ideally if floor is level you want the entire base of toilet to rest on floor, since you can't tighten the flange bolts too much. With these waxless rings, they don't compress enough to get the toilet to rest on floor. Sure, you can shim, but that's not ideal. Another issue is, good thing on one I pulled the toilet before tightening bolts & saw that the thin rubber that went down into the waste pipe had caught and folded up, good thing I saw that or would have been an obstruction to flush. You would not have that issue w/a wax ring.
Thanks For Sharing! That Recess At The Ring and Bolts Is About 7/8” Deep On My Kohler Elliston, I Believe That Would Be The Critical Measurement, Since The Outer Base Edge Would Hit The Floor And Limit Any Further Compression Of Wax Ring. If Flange Is Any Higher Than 7/8” Above The Floor, Than Toilet Weight Will Be On The Flange/Pipe and Likely Wobble Needing Shims/Support...
#YourRecessMayBegToDiffer #YourToiletRecessMayVary 🚽 #NotAPlumberInRealLife 🕳🦸♂️
Frank-You are SPOT on about the wax free rings! I went thru 3 of them and my toilet STILL wobbled and to use shims was ridiculous! I ended up using a wax ring and will do so from now on!
Frank, that was a great explanation of what to watch out for. That helped me more than most videos I’ve watched. Thanks!
Agreed. I also used the fluidmaster once to try on my house. I removed the toilet a few months later to check how tight it was holding and found the the plastic funnel had turned upwards somehow and was catching a small amount of water. It didn't leak but I was not happy with that and could recommend them because of that issue.
@@YOUandMeRealtyDotCom you have got to stop capitalizing everything! my god!
Great stuff man Thank you!!! Cause of your video I feel like plumber Thank you 🙏 just about to fix our toilet seal. Thank you again!!
i think Danco one, when used properly is good. I've used it time to time, but 80% of the time, i use the thick, extra wax ring, regardless how high or low the flange is, i just like that extra wax lol
I used the thick wax with danco hydro cap had great success with that product also
The best video with detail, thank you for making this video,GBU
Thank you for watching
Perfect seal Was worth price for unbalance ceramic tiles and flange
lower than floor.
While you have the toilet removed is a good time to clean around and behind the toilet.Wall behind etc.
its also a good time to make a sandwich!
See, that's where most people just don't care about little details like that. I have severe OCD and I always pay attention to little details like what you're talking about. I had to replace two toilets in a house I bought back in 2014. My wife thought I was wasting so much time by cleaning the wall behind the tank. I also cleaned all the excessive wax around the flange of the floor so everything would be nice and neat. But yeah, most people today just don't give a damn. They slap something on good enough for it to work and that's it. Details to me are everything.
Remove the water tank from the toilet, so it is easier to remove it and re install. (less weight and easier to lower the toilet onto the seal gasket). Also you may want to clean the tiles around the toilet drain before installing the toilet.
thanks for watching!
Just changed my wax ring, thought about taking the tank off, but figured that would be another place to leak. I don't get along well with plumbing.
Should you check the bottom of the toilet where it seals for any obstruction or pieces of wax that's stuck on there?
Thanks for the video brother, i put the toilet back in less than 5 minutes!
so glad it worked for you. Thanks for watching
Thanks for this, about to do an install myself and trying to figure out if I should use these new fancy seals or the old fashioned wax.
good luck whatever you decide to do...
I've used the Fluid master one in the past and I haven't had any leaks.
Im a few years late watching this. I have used the perfect seal on both my toilets and they worked good. I have since sold that home and we are buying another home that is older and i will be needing to update the bathroom for sure and so im just refreshing my memory on the toilet seals. Im hopeing i dont have a cast iron piping. I didnt get in the crawl space of the house. I asked the inspector and he said my stack was cast but there was some pvc. Im hopeing the toilet drain has been udated ive heard they can be difficult to mess with. Anyways thanks for the vid.
How did that Better than Wax work for you after 18 months?
According to the instructions you probably should have used the spacer too. The spacer is meant to lift the blue plastic high enough that it makes firm contact with the toilet porcelain, then compressed when you place the toilet weight on top.
I’ve got exactly the same combination as you had in your video; wax, Perfect Seal, and better than wax. I’m leaning towards the Perfect Seal.
It has worked perfectly. The toilet is sitting firmly on the seal. No issues at all.
Great guided video. Much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Are the Internal diameters of the blue rubber style ring and the wax rings the same??
There seems to be a considerable difference in the openings
Just installed a Danco and was meticulous in cleaning and proper installation. 10 minutes later, its leaking out of the back. Heading back to the
store for a wax ring. Thanks for your video.
It was actually the Next Perfect Seal that did not seal perfectly.
Those things are not often easy to install. If you are off just slightly when setting the toilet down, it could result in a leak. Luckily for me, I was able to get it sealed properly on the first try.
I stand corrected, the seal worked perfectly. The leak was actually coming from the tank. It must have moved slightly off the bowl when I leaned it back to clean. Thankfully I used blue ty-d-bowl and found the blue water coming from above before I pulled the toilet up again!
@@bentstruments Thanks for the update
@@bentstruments Good on you for coming back and setting the record straight. Still happy with the Danco? I purchased the Next Perfect Seal and a traditional wax ring still trying to decide which to use.
Thanks for the video!
thanks for watching! please share the video
@@flannelguydiy6458 I was looking all over TH-cam for how to change a toilet seal and watched several videos. I found yours and it made so easy and made a lot of sense!
Have you heard anything about how the rubber holds up over the years? Does it start to get brittle or deteriorate over time?
My brass mounting flange is not round and does not sit level. It is flush and up to 3/16 above the floor. I tried the Fluid Master and it would not work in any configuration even removed the foam and tried the black spacer to add a little height. I went with the Danco. If there is a problem I will try the korky brand.
Korky is a better choice. I installed two double-stacked korky three years ago. Everything works fine.
Awesome video!!! I'm going with the wax ring myself. TY
Just a thought sir, maybe it would be a bit easier with a shop vac to get the remaining water from the bowl and tank. Video is very informative.
It look literally 60 seconds to do it with the sponge. To bring the shop vac into the bathroom, turn it on, take it outside to dump the water, let the vacuum dry out, etc... it is actually easier to use the sponge. I like the fact that you are thinking creatively though. Really appreciate you watching!
Suģgest you acquire a shop vac. Vac the water from tank and bowl. Takes about 45 sec and no water clean up. A ratchet box end wrench in 7/16 and 1/2 inch is also a very handy tool. À vibrating saw with metal blade is ideal to cut off rusty bolts.
yes I know all about the shop vac. However, by the time you open the shop vac to remove the filter so it can be used with water, carry it down to a bathroom, suck up the water, carry the shop vac outside to dump it, then replace the filter... it is actually MUCH faster to use a large sponge and a bucket. It was about five squeezes with that large sponge and it was done.
Use a plunger 🪠
THANKS FOR SHOWING YOU ARE AWESOME.
You are so welcome
It’s easier to maneuver the toilet if you disassemble the top off the bowl..then you can have more accuracy setting the bowl down and not wrench your back out too..
sure it would be lighter, but extra steps that I preferred not to take. Plus the bolts holding the tank to the bowl were rusted a bit and that could have opened up a whole other can of worms
@@flannelguydiy6458 just as easy to disassemble and replace those too..especially if they do look rusted, why ignore it and wait for a possible leak? Replacing all seals, gaskets and hardware at least keeps it all fresh and on the same schedule..you have to drain the whole thing regardless.. I had to bust out the Dremel to cut a bolt off that was completely rusted, I’m vowing to replace the whole lot long before I allow it to happen again..
Thanks for the tutorial. I have a home on a slab. Any idea how I'd even check to make sure nothing is leaking after the installation?
with a slab? yeah if you have solid cement the leak should come into the bathroom
I see that you used the Fluidmaster, I didn't see any wax on this one. Is there one that has wax? Also, did you try the Danco? The Danco Perfect Seal still has a wax ring, it's just that the wax doesn't touch the toilet.
Looking at using the perfect seal that has the wax ring underneath. Is the perfect seal supposed to work with older iron/lead flanges?
not sure
Use a wet/dry vacuum to empty the water out of the tank & bowl
yes that works but for me it is more of a pain. I do not want to then have to remove the filter in the vacuum and then let it all dry out.
If you have diapers around the house they make short work of drying the toilet.
Very good video, Flannel Guy. I would have liked to see you do a dry fit of the BLUE part on to the toilet horn to give us an idea what the fit looks like. I thought that the idea was for the toilet horn to fit down INTO the blue thing, maybe deforming the inner part downward a little bit, and for the outer circumference of the blue ring to fit up against the bottom of the toilet around the horn (which is what a wax ring does, and that is what I thought we were going for with this blue ring thing).
When I did the test fit on my toilet I found that the horn of my new toilet (Toto) contacts top of the blue ring, but it could not fit inside down into the diameter of the blue ring, even by stretching it. I used a flange extender ring to simulate the toilet/flange-ring junction, and I could not get the blue thing to seat on the horn without distorting the blue thing. There was no way to manipulate the blue thing to get the it to move any higher on the toilet horn. The only point of contact would be the thin edge of the toilet horn contacting the blue thing, but not fitting down into it. It looked like the blue ring would have distorted and not sealed.
If the horn on my toilet was a smaller diameter and tapered then it would work, but I didn't feel like grinding the horn on toilet (!!). This meant that the blue thing's surface would not contact the bottom of the toilet around the horn. I have read that the size of the toilet horn varies but I have no experience with that. I recommend doing a dry fit to see what your junction will look like.
R Y , I know exactly what you're saying about the blue ring not fitting over the toilet horn. The fact is this particular seal is NOT UNIVERSAL. I couldn't get to set properly over the horn, nor could I get the toilet to set flush to the floor no matter how I tried. I ended up using a Sani Seal gasket instead without any issue.
Any update? How's it holding up?
still working just fine
Your wife is gonna be pissed when she sees that you never even cleaned the floor before re installation lol
I'm pissed and I don't even know this guy lol
I stopped worrying about what my wife thinks years ago. Life is too short...
@@flannelguydiy6458 that is the motto of all long-term married men. 🤣
no follow up, was it still leaking after a few days ?
it has not leaked at all. Thank you for watching !
On perfectly flat floor: plain old wax.
On uneven ceramic tile: Danco.
You don't use nylon closet bolts?
@@snaplash Yes, but grout tends to fall apart, unless it's epoxy, in which case the toilet is never coming back up.
@@ChrisGilliamOffGrid My Bro-in-law (40yr plumber) said to use clear silicone adhesive to chauk the toilet around the bottom of rim, helps to seal and level.
@@HighlightsVideoBlog Not silicone, water-based clear or white caulk. There's a video of it on my channel. Use a sponge.
@@ChrisGilliamOffGrid Thanks Chris , it’s like you made that video for me! I haven’t installed yet so I’ll check out your directions. I!m installing white over black tile floor so the clear product is the charm. I,ve seen another vid where the chalk was applied to the underside rim of the toilet just befor setting it which makes sense to fill the grout gaps underneath the rim. Your Vid technique seems simpler. Probably do both.
What anchors the bolts to the flange? I didn't understand that part?
the flange has a slot where the bolts slide in. The head of the bolt grabs on
I Would Say You Asked A Toilet Plumbers Opinion About Using The Products From Other Companies
For your viewers: From the start of the video, you want to take that black plastic away, the ring should pop out, you do not want to install your toilet on top of that plastic, you gonna have some interesting problems. Also I would put down some protective rubber mats and wear some gloves. You're dealing with poop and that can cause some serious health issues.
i also work in the corporate world. I deal with poop all day long. I get it flung at me too..
As much as it causes me pain to say, you probably just saved some poor sap a lot of work. If that's the case they should just use it for a watering dish for their cat and call a professional🤣
My buddy has been a plumber for 35 years and all he uses is wax rings he swears by them also if you take the tank off it would be a whole lot easier because it weighs less
thanks for watching. Please share the video!
How’s the fluidmaster working out for you?
So far so good. Flushes well with no clogs. I happened to look beneath the area of the toilet in the crawl space below two days ago and there are no leaks at all
Not gud at all I used fluid master which didn't need wax seal. Now toilet is still leaking
@@hakeemparker4070 may be not laid evenly
Would it have been easier to remove the tank first?
probably not...
If you remove the tank you will need to replace the gasket between the tank and the toilet and the bolts and gaskets that hold the tank
Great video and explanation but NO GLOVES flannel guy! 😳Oh man, I'll follow your advice but don't invite me to dinner, and I wont be shaking your hand either 😢
i never use toilet paper either. smell my finger...
I'll add my experience with the new tech ring seals. The "better than wax" seal failed after 7 years. The rubber seal had become hard and brittle and began to leak, a lot. I replaced that with a "perfect seal" that was recommended by the big box plumber guy, which is a hybrid wax/rubber seal. That began to leak in a few days. I discovered the rubber seal had compressed on one side, and never popped up, leaving a gap...which leaked. Even after multiple attempts, I could never get it to seal properly. So, back to the old school plain jane wax ring. No leaks after several months. And still no leaks from my other toilets that have all wax ring seal after over 20 years. I should've known better.
Oh, wear some throw away gloves, like nitryl mechanics gloves.
thanks for watching...
That's how I feel.. new tech always seem to fail. Wax has been used for a long time now!
The Toilet Bolts snap off with plyers at the groves.
thank you for watching
FYI;;;;; Using the wrench backwards
Why wouldnt you use a plunger to get the water out?
that will not work
How come you didn’t clean the floor real good before putting toilet back on the mess. Good job other than that. Lol
your video would be better if you gave the results from a period of time after you finished the job
You used the Fluidmaster in this vid, why is everyone calling it the Danco? Two vastly different Technologies.
Good. Be careful about the back-you can't replace those.
So no follow-up?
My old toilet rocked like that it was annoying
FIRST...LATEX GLOVES! SECOND...SCRAP ALL THE CAULKING OFF THE TILE AND CLEAN IT GOOD! YUK
Useful but too many in-video ads... Would not watch more
youtube places those ads... not me
@@flannelguydiy6458 if you wanted to change that, I believe there are settings for creators to limit or negate in-video ads.
ad-block buddy.
@@nobodynoone2500 link?
The perfect seal is better
Pleeeeeease use some gloves for some of this process, and do better cleaning the wax.
shutup. don't project your anxiety on him
You aren't going to be eating off the toilet base or flange, are you?
I cant believe you just put that toilet down without cleaning up that nasty crud that was under there, including the old caulk which is why its not particularly stable.
After draining the water out of the tank finish getting all the water out of the tank and toilet with your SHOP VAC. Of course, remove your paper filter and make sure the vac is empty and not filled with dirt, etc. So much tidier.
it is way easier to use the sponge. By the time I open the shop vac and dump out the debis that is there, remove the filter, bring it into the house, then dump the water, let it dry out before putting it away. Too much BS and the sponge is done in about 60 seconds.
They want to charge me $500 to fix the seal. Is that a rip off?
yes it is a rip off..
Gloves, who needs em…..
made a sandwich immediately after. thanks for watching...
If you have to replace your toilet bolts wouldn’t you have to remove the toilet to do that? In that case you would need to replace the wax ring anyway, wouldn’t you? 😳
yes.. not sure what your point is though. The whole video was about replacing the ring, not the bolts
Put some cloves on dude 😮
but i dont like the taste of cloves !
The first thing I would have put on my hands would be a glove I don't mess with a toilet I don't care if it's spit shine I'm putting a sponge in a commode with your bare hands I just don't see that
i made a sandwich immediately after.... :)
Clean it up more.
Wow so I am wondering if not using gloves is because they can grip things better!
What kind of gloves are you referring to?
@@flannelguydiy6458 protective gloves, laytex or other gloves is what I was talking about! Some ppl wear them but in some videos they are not! Then there was one video a person was wearing those garden gloves the ones you wear if dealing with wite and needle noses!
I would never put my bare hands inside a toilet without gloves! Lol.
Just bought a rubber ring… hope it works! Thx for the video!
How disgusting you didn’t clean the floor tiles before setting the toilet in place.
6;13 No gloves? I think the toilet was never used.
gloves.
gloves are for #ussies. I also ate lunch with those hands immediately after without washing :)
@@flannelguydiy6458 🙂 nice!!
Very annoing smacking his lip😝
thank you for watching
Please cut that label off the water line! It bothers me.
🤣🤣🤣
All my water lines still have the labels. Am I gonna die?
Good info. But you have a bad habit of making chup chup noises when speaking. Thanks for the info
For the love of all that is holy please stop smacking when explaining. 😳
I BELIVE YIU should put a towel in the hole to keep debris from falling I
thank you for watching
@@flannelguydiy6458 - I’m fixing’ to do this exact thing, with the fluid master better than wax - is it still working for you? 😊