Just used the full product to do an entire cast iron tub last night. Overall it is an incredible material. It does flow, and flow and flow and flow. My recommendation is to definitely remove the drain hardware and of course protect your pipes so nothing can flow into them. I only had a little overflow onto my chrome drain because I did not remove it, and because I had probably a little more Ekopel on the bottom of the tub, that just ran for a long while. 12 hours later I leaned into the tub use a razor knife to cut around the perimeter of the drain, and unscrewed it, soaking in xylene hoping it cleans off (?). Leaning into the tub, even tho the material seemed REALLY CURED, it ended up marring the surface in a couple places that I touched. So I ordered the touch up and think it will be fine.
Hello I purchased the Ekopel 2K Pour On Shower & Bathtub Touch Up Kit. I'm happy with the product except you don't provide instructions on the ratios for mixing the product. If you only need to touch up a small scratch then you have to use the whole kit, even though it's small kit you could cover a lot and save it for later $34 for a small scratch it's a lot I think. Also the link for the instructions on your website don't work.
brother, my tub came out gorgeous except for the few knicks I made on the outside an hour into in drying. I look forward to repairing it and posting a review of this excellent product. This stuff is AMAZING!
So we just Ekopeled our tile surround and tub and it was too thin on the walls. I went back to add more material higher up so that it was at least thicker, then we could sand it down/polish as opposed to it being too thin. That being said, I did it 1 hour and 20 mins (I know, I didn't follow the instructions) and now its not a smooth surface. When doing a large "touch up" job, should we sand the whole area and then re-do the whole thing? The tub looks great, its just the walls that are 1) too thin and 2) bumpy. Could we get away with just using 1 kit to touch up the surround or do we need to order two more? Any advice is greatly appreciated. I know we messed up and didn't follow directions. Just trying to salvage it now :(
@@michellemellis They suggested I sand down the whole thing and use an entire gallon to re-do OR use a car wax rubbing compound. I spent over 8 hours sanding down the entire fiberglass tub surround and front skirt. It's almost smooth. Sigh. I'm going to try the car wax first in a small area to see if that does it. I have done two projects with Ekopel. The first was a garden tub and it turned out beautifully with a mirror finish. Everyone who saw it - the new buyers of the house, the inspector, other agents - thought it was a brand-new tub. This tub with surround failed because their website recommended using Tubcast for the walls and Ekopel for the tub. I followed that suggestion and the two mixtures separated and dried with huge drip lines. It looked HORRIBLE. When I called their support, the lady told me that they no longer suggested using two different products for the same tub - in fact the suggestion had already been removed from the website. It was her suggestion that I sand everything down smooth and then try the wax rubbing compound first to see if that will look good - obviously not on the floor because it will make it too slick. Thankfully, the floor is mostly okay. I have one more tub to do in the master of the house I'm working on. No surround on this one. I wish there were an easier way to keep the drain open. It only takes 20 minutes to pour, but it takes 1-2 hours to prep and then 7-12 hours to babysit. If you don't, the drain will get covered over and then it is a chore to open up again with a heat gun and/or dremel.
@@trublueproperties2003 well I bought a kit thinking it was a roll on, then watched all the videos and it showed pour n roll so I did. No bueno! So she told me to sand everything but not back to previous surface. But I was like some of it didn’t cover the previous surface. So what do I do about those spots. And it left dimples everywhere, like how smooth do the have to be ? Totally or mostly, can’t feel at all? She didn’t say n they won’t answer me anymore! I told them it’s a scam to make us have to buy more product. Which I still think it is, but I’m stuck n haven’t a clue really which way to go.
I am doing a repair this weekend, I missed a couple spots on the outer wall and dropped my phone 3 hours in that left a damaged area. I see there are a few other blemishes that can probably be "polished out" Can you explain how you do that? Is there a special process? Do we need to tub wax that is sold on the website?
Can sand the affected areas smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper then if you don't need more material go to 600 then 1500 then use any car buffing compounds to bring the shine back. If after sanding you do need more material use our touch up kit to fix.
Can I use a little paint from the 300gram kit to cover a few small Knicks inside the tub. Approximately 1/16 deep? Would it blend into the finished area around the knick.
I used a kit to refinish a vintage Kohler Brockway double faucet sink. There was some icky drip marks on the slope on the top and some thin spots around the faucet holes. Looks like I can just order a touch up kit for these areas. My question is... How to clean the sink to prepare for the pour over? The original pour I used the toilet bowl cleaner on the whole shebang, obviously I don't want to "etch" the entire sink for the areas that need touch up.
I would not recommend re-etching as there is no need Ekopel will adhere to itself. I would recommend sanding the affected area smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper then if you don't need more material go to 600 then 1500 then can use any car buffing compound to bring the shine back. If after sanding you need more material use our pour on touch up kit.
I used the product on a 1929 Porcelain Farm House sink. The sink turned out amazing!! I have one problem and need help. I had a dog hair get on it and I touched it with my finger without thinking to get it off and now that one spot will not dry . The entire sink except for a finger tip is dry . Please help if you can ! Thank you
I am so sorry to hear this! I would recommend scraping off what you can of the tackiness, can even use acetone to really clean it up. And then use our pour on touch up kit to fix. It the same material you already used just a smaller amount.
Derrick Ziglar Sr can sand it off and polish it, or order one of our drain covers to seal it in nice and neat. If it’s really bad you can heat it to 250/300 degrees with a heat gun and cut it out with a razor blade first.
`there will always be imperfect little areas. It will always have little things. Remember when fully cured you can buff areas. Must have good sander and water . Buff with 600 up to 1000. Then use a car buffer and with 3m 3 state buffer with correct pads. Always tell customer there will be very slight imperfect areas. Also use a blow dryer to smooth any heavy drips an hour after application to smooth.
I have a 1-piece fiberglass shower stall (4'x4') in the master bath and a 1-piece fiberglass tub surround in the hall bath. Both are yellowed and ugly. Will Ekopel 2K work for fiberglass with these large/tall fields of surface? If so, how many kits would you recommend I get for the shower stall, and how many kits for the tub surround?
Yes, ekopel will work on that type of unit! Just make sure with fiberglass or plastic that there is no flex meaning, if you step or push on the walls and floor and they move that is a flex. Can be fixed with expanding foam first then will work great with ekopel. Typically unit like this would need at least our 2 pack kit which covers: 35-50 sq ft.
I used the kit on my tub, it looks exceptional BUT i messed up the drain area abit, so I need to fix it. I have been looking for the touch up kit that you speak of but can't find it on your website. I only see the full ekopel 2k kit for $134.99. I really need just 2 spoons of the product to fix my problem. Do you have touch up kit?
@@RefinishedBathSolutions so on the website it says its a 100gram kit for $24.99, but the one here in this video is 300gram touch up kit....does that matter? or do I need to buy 3 of them? or the 100 gram kit is ok?
Hello, I recently refinished a full bath tub and love the product. unfortunately after the cure, I noticed I missed about a 2X2 inch area on the inside wall of the tub where it was a blind spot and I did not see it until the tub was cured. I want to repair this miss and like to get your advise on how about doing that? Do I pour the whole inside wall like you did on this video on the outside wall? The rest of the tub looks amazing. Thanks.
I would recommend getting our 300 gram pour on touch up kit, sand the affected area, clean it, and then pour the affected area with touch up push excess material with foam roller and then it should be good as new and blend righ in its the same material just a smaller amount
Can you post a video of touch up on the interior? Around the drain and overflow possibly??? Or does that require another full reglaze? I just finished mine earlier today and removed the tape too late 😫
I would recommend sanding the affected area smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper then if you don't need more material double the grit to 600 then 1500 then use any car buffing compound to bring the shine back. If after sanding you need more material then use the pour on touch up kit to fix that area.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions I’m definitely going need more material. There’s a gap between the surface and the drain as well as the overflow and the base of the tub. So I went ahead and ordered the touch up kit! Here’s hoping I can get it right this time!
We recommend any car buffing compound they will all work similarly. I would recommend sanding it with 220-320 then 600 then 1500 then clean the dust off and use any car buffing compound.
How do you repair the bottom of the tub if you didn't take out enough of the excess? The bottom is pretty uneven and almost has a valley in it. Any recommendations?
I would recommend sanding it how you want with 220-320 grit sandpaper. Then if you don't need more material double the grit to 600 then 1500 then use any car buffing compound to bring the shine back. If after sanding you need more material we have pour on touch up kits that are the same material you already used just a smaller amount or you could even use the non slip kit if it's just the bottom.
In the beginning, all the bath tub walls looked great but in several minutes they were covered with ripples. Can it be from the heater in the bathroom? I started fixing it with the roller and it looks terrible now. Wavy and partially rippled areas. Now I have to buy another kit to repair the ugly bathtub. I just want to know why the material went from beautiful to rippled? Please respond.
It self levels out had you left it it would have leveled itself out. But because you touched it with the roller it made things worse. Thats why we always say if it looks bad leave it, if you touch it it can make it worse. Also remember you only have an hour to work with this material
@@RefinishedBathSolutions Thank you very much for your response! I really don't know what to do now.. I called this morning the company # and the girl advised me to sand the tub and buff it with the car buffing compounds, and I would be very happy with the results. She said there was no need for me to buy another kit, but I'm not sure if buffing would work, and if it will, how long would it last, and will the tub require buffing regularly from now on to keep it "nice"? I'm a girl and I don't know a lot about this stuff:((. Also, can you tell me if I was wrong to leave the working heater in the bathroom while working on the project? It was probably hotter than 75F.. The tub front skirt is very uneven, wavy, bumpy and rippled, and the other sides of the tub walls look much thinner with the streaks on it, and in certain parts barely covering the original walls. Also, if I buy another kit to redo the whole tub, will it become much thicker as a result of installing the material twice? And the last question would I have to sand the whole tub before installing the material? Basically, the whole tub now looks terrible and wavy. PLEASE advise, and thank you in advance.
@@Vitarusvita I had a space heater running in the doorway of my small bathroom for several hours during and after pouring the ekopel. I left it alone and it finished smooth. Unfortunately I bumped the front of the tub on my last pass at the drain. Trying to "fix" it after the initial hour is what likely caused ripples like where I tried to touch up.
I have to do some touching up on one of the inside walls in my bathtub... do I have to pour it in on the entire side or can I just do it in the area where touch up is needed?
If the damaged spot is inside the tub, can it be fixed in the same way? A fly dropped on the bottom when the surface was already sticky. A damaged spot was left over after the fly was removed. Can you provide a video to show how to repair small damaged area? Thanks!
Yes it can be repaired similarly. I would recommend heating up where the gun is with a heat gun or hair dryer then remove the bug with tweezers. Then sand the affected area smooth with 220-320 grit sandpaper. Then if you need more material you can get a touch up kit to fix.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions The bug has been removed. Now the coating is already set and hard. After sanding, shall I still use roller to apply the material to cover up the damaged area? I am not sure if the transition to the surrounding area could be seamless. Thanks!
What can i fix my bathroom tile and tube after lots of bumps and grout that came lose while using ekopel.can someone tell me.should just do it all over .over the first one and will smooth it out.
You can redue it with ekopel but you would need to sand it smooth first with 400 grit sandpaper then give the tub a deep clean wih lysol power. then you will be ready for ekopel application.
Why would you attenpt to use it on a wall with loose grout? And bumps? Did you not prep the area at all? Or did you expect the stuff to hide everything and keep the grout from falling out? Is like spray painting dirt then asking the paint manufacturer how to make the paint not come off of it..
This video is for "touch up" but you then "repaint" the entire front. I have some dust and a bug that flew in. How do I fix those without redoing the entire thing? Also, if I sand and wax, do I have to rewax after each cleaning with detergent? I refinished tub 18 hours ago.
I would recommend hand sanding those area smooth and then applying the touch up kit with your fingers. The wax is like when you wax your car. It will last a while then you will have to reapply every now and then.
Yes you can sand those smooth with 220-320 grit sandpaper then double it to 600 then 1500 grit sandpaper. Next use a car buffing compound to bring the shine back. The best way to understand how to buff is to watch a TH-cam video on how to buff a drip mark out of a car. That will teach you all you'll need to know about buffing.
I would recommend sanding it smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper then double the grit to 600 then 1500 then use any car buffing compound to bring the shine back. If after sanding you need more material I would recommend our pour on touch up kit to fix.
Hi! I’ve watched at least 10 vids of yours and noticed you insist on using Ekopel on most projects. So I was curious why you would recommend this specific product, especially compared to Rust-Oleum. (Although the price difference is incomparable) 1. How long does this product last? And when does it start to chip off? 2. When this does chip off, do I paint the whole bathtub again? Or can I do a spot treatment. 3. Can this be applied on granite countertops as well? 4. I don’t mind the price as long as the product works. Being that said, would you recommend TC 5000 or Ekopel or Rust-Oleum on a fiberglass tub Thank you for the vids:)
inu esther Ekopel never chips off. Rustoleum is a heavy solvent paint. You need to wear a respirator and have an exhaust system to use it. Ekopel is 99% solids and doesn’t have a chemical smell like this. Ekopel drys at 1/8th of an inch thick. Rustoleum is about as thick a sheet of paper. Tub cast is 50% the thickness of Ekopel. For a fiberglass tub with surround a gallon kit tub cast is my only recommendation. For a tub only Ekopel is always my recommendation. Ekopel is very hard to use on walls this is why we created tub cast 5000. It flows better and bonds very well to fiberglass. For longevity they are both equivalent to a brand new tub. With routine cleaning and maintenance they will last indefinitely.
Refinished Bath Solutions So your suggestion is to use Tub Cast 500 since I have the fiberglass tub with surround? I know in the previous videos, you said the difference between Ekopel and Tc5000 is the thickness. But how about it’s durability? Cuz I would like to use one that’s more durable and lasts longer. If I do use TC5000, how much do I need? Oh, and I tried to search this product on amazon but couldn’t find it. Where can I get tc 5000?:) (So many questions 😂 I just read some horrible reviews of the outcomes. Trying to avoid any of that as much as possible) Thanks again:)
inu esther refinishedbathproducts.com on a fiberglass unit a gallon kit of tub cast 5000 is my only recommendation. It will last as long as a brand new unit. If it’s cleaned and maintained it will last indefinitely. For Ekopel and tub cast if all directions are followed with no added or subtracted steps great results will be obtained. Any added steps or skipped steps are 99% of negative feedback. That said both of these products are the highest rated bathtub refinishing products available.
Just used the full product to do an entire cast iron tub last night. Overall it is an incredible material. It does flow, and flow and flow and flow. My recommendation is to definitely remove the drain hardware and of course protect your pipes so nothing can flow into them. I only had a little overflow onto my chrome drain because I did not remove it, and because I had probably a little more Ekopel on the bottom of the tub, that just ran for a long while. 12 hours later I leaned into the tub use a razor knife to cut around the perimeter of the drain, and unscrewed it, soaking in xylene hoping it cleans off (?). Leaning into the tub, even tho the material seemed REALLY CURED, it ended up marring the surface in a couple places that I touched. So I ordered the touch up and think it will be fine.
Hello I purchased the Ekopel 2K Pour On Shower & Bathtub Touch Up Kit. I'm happy with the product except you don't provide instructions on the ratios for mixing the product. If you only need to touch up a small scratch then you have to use the whole kit, even though it's small kit you could cover a lot and save it for later $34 for a small scratch it's a lot I think.
Also the link for the instructions on your website don't work.
brother, my tub came out gorgeous except for the few knicks I made on the outside an hour into in drying. I look forward to repairing it and posting a review of this excellent product. This stuff is AMAZING!
My tub looks great. Mixed for 10 minutes before applying lol
So we just Ekopeled our tile surround and tub and it was too thin on the walls. I went back to add more material higher up so that it was at least thicker, then we could sand it down/polish as opposed to it being too thin. That being said, I did it 1 hour and 20 mins (I know, I didn't follow the instructions) and now its not a smooth surface. When doing a large "touch up" job, should we sand the whole area and then re-do the whole thing? The tub looks great, its just the walls that are 1) too thin and 2) bumpy. Could we get away with just using 1 kit to touch up the surround or do we need to order two more?
Any advice is greatly appreciated. I know we messed up and didn't follow directions. Just trying to salvage it now :(
I have the same situation. Waiting for them to get back with me...
Michelle Ellis I have the same problem as well 😡
@@michellemellis They suggested I sand down the whole thing and use an entire gallon to re-do OR use a car wax rubbing compound. I spent over 8 hours sanding down the entire fiberglass tub surround and front skirt. It's almost smooth. Sigh. I'm going to try the car wax first in a small area to see if that does it.
I have done two projects with Ekopel. The first was a garden tub and it turned out beautifully with a mirror finish. Everyone who saw it - the new buyers of the house, the inspector, other agents - thought it was a brand-new tub.
This tub with surround failed because their website recommended using Tubcast for the walls and Ekopel for the tub. I followed that suggestion and the two mixtures separated and dried with huge drip lines. It looked HORRIBLE. When I called their support, the lady told me that they no longer suggested using two different products for the same tub - in fact the suggestion had already been removed from the website. It was her suggestion that I sand everything down smooth and then try the wax rubbing compound first to see if that will look good - obviously not on the floor because it will make it too slick. Thankfully, the floor is mostly okay.
I have one more tub to do in the master of the house I'm working on. No surround on this one. I wish there were an easier way to keep the drain open. It only takes 20 minutes to pour, but it takes 1-2 hours to prep and then 7-12 hours to babysit. If you don't, the drain will get covered over and then it is a chore to open up again with a heat gun and/or dremel.
@@trublueproperties2003 well I bought a kit thinking it was a roll on, then watched all the videos and it showed pour n roll so I did. No bueno! So she told me to sand everything but not back to previous surface. But I was like some of it didn’t cover the previous surface. So what do I do about those spots. And it left dimples everywhere, like how smooth do the have to be ? Totally or mostly, can’t feel at all? She didn’t say n they won’t answer me anymore! I told them it’s a scam to make us have to buy more product. Which I still think it is, but I’m stuck n haven’t a clue really which way to go.
I am doing a repair this weekend, I missed a couple spots on the outer wall and dropped my phone 3 hours in that left a damaged area. I see there are a few other blemishes that can probably be "polished out" Can you explain how you do that? Is there a special process? Do we need to tub wax that is sold on the website?
Can sand the affected areas smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper then if you don't need more material go to 600 then 1500 then use any car buffing compounds to bring the shine back. If after sanding you do need more material use our touch up kit to fix.
Can I use a little paint from the 300gram kit to cover a few small Knicks inside the tub. Approximately 1/16 deep? Would it blend into the finished area around the knick.
Does 300g touch up kit have enough material to cover 30x19in sink ?
I would recommend our sink/shower pan kit for that. Our sink /shower pan kit covers: 3-4ft
I used a kit to refinish a vintage Kohler Brockway double faucet sink. There was some icky drip marks on the slope on the top and some thin spots around the faucet holes. Looks like I can just order a touch up kit for these areas. My question is... How to clean the sink to prepare for the pour over? The original pour I used the toilet bowl cleaner on the whole shebang, obviously I don't want to "etch" the entire sink for the areas that need touch up.
I would not recommend re-etching as there is no need Ekopel will adhere to itself. I would recommend sanding the affected area smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper then if you don't need more material go to 600 then 1500 then can use any car buffing compound to bring the shine back. If after sanding you need more material use our pour on touch up kit.
I used the product on a 1929 Porcelain Farm House sink. The sink turned out amazing!! I have one problem and need help. I had a dog hair get on it and I touched it with my finger without thinking to get it off and now that one spot will not dry . The entire sink except for a finger tip is dry . Please help if you can ! Thank you
I am so sorry to hear this! I would recommend scraping off what you can of the tackiness, can even use acetone to really clean it up. And then use our pour on touch up kit to fix. It the same material you already used just a smaller amount.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions THANK YOU ! Your company is great about answering any question we have .
is this the same formula as a full size kit? I have a very small vanity top that I’m hoping this will cover.
Yes, we also do have our sink kits as well.
Everything came out great but pulled drain tape to early how can I remove with damage
Without damaging
Derrick Ziglar Sr can sand it off and polish it, or order one of our drain covers to seal it in nice and neat.
If it’s really bad you can heat it to 250/300 degrees with a heat gun and cut it out with a razor blade first.
`there will always be imperfect little areas. It will always have little things. Remember when fully cured you can buff areas. Must have good sander and water . Buff with 600 up to 1000. Then use a car buffer and with 3m 3 state buffer with correct pads. Always tell customer there will be very slight imperfect areas. Also use a blow dryer to smooth any heavy drips an hour after application to smooth.
I have a 1-piece fiberglass shower stall (4'x4') in the master bath and a 1-piece fiberglass tub surround in the hall bath. Both are yellowed and ugly. Will Ekopel 2K work for fiberglass with these large/tall fields of surface? If so, how many kits would you recommend I get for the shower stall, and how many kits for the tub surround?
Yes, ekopel will work on that type of unit! Just make sure with fiberglass or plastic that there is no flex meaning, if you step or push on the walls and floor and they move that is a flex. Can be fixed with expanding foam first then will work great with ekopel. Typically unit like this would need at least our 2 pack kit which covers: 35-50 sq ft.
I used the kit on my tub, it looks exceptional BUT i messed up the drain area abit, so I need to fix it.
I have been looking for the touch up kit that you speak of but can't find it on your website. I only see the full ekopel 2k kit for $134.99. I really need just 2 spoons of the product to fix my problem.
Do you have touch up kit?
Donmasiano yes, look at all products you will see our touch up kit there
@@RefinishedBathSolutions so on the website it says its a 100gram kit for $24.99, but the one here in this video is 300gram touch up kit....does that matter? or do I need to buy 3 of them? or the 100 gram kit is ok?
Donmasiano all you need is 1 100g kit for that size soot
Do you recommend lightly sanding the whole front skirt before pouring the 300 gram touch up kit?
Yes you want to sand smooth to the touch with 220-320 then clean any dust away no need to etch again. Then can re-pour
Hello, I recently refinished a full bath tub and love the product. unfortunately after the cure, I noticed I missed about a 2X2 inch area on the inside wall of the tub where it was a blind spot and I did not see it until the tub was cured. I want to repair this miss and like to get your advise on how about doing that? Do I pour the whole inside wall like you did on this video on the outside wall? The rest of the tub looks amazing. Thanks.
I would recommend getting our 300 gram pour on touch up kit, sand the affected area, clean it, and then pour the affected area with touch up push excess material with foam roller and then it should be good as new and blend righ in its the same material just a smaller amount
Can you post a video of touch up on the interior? Around the drain and overflow possibly??? Or does that require another full reglaze? I just finished mine earlier today and removed the tape too late 😫
I would recommend sanding the affected area smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper then if you don't need more material double the grit to 600 then 1500 then use any car buffing compound to bring the shine back. If after sanding you need more material then use the pour on touch up kit to fix that area.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions I’m definitely going need more material. There’s a gap between the surface and the drain as well as the overflow and the base of the tub. So I went ahead and ordered the touch up kit! Here’s hoping I can get it right this time!
what polishing compound can i use to remove dried on dust settling after the cure time with the EKOPEL 2K-48
We recommend any car buffing compound they will all work similarly. I would recommend sanding it with 220-320 then 600 then 1500 then clean the dust off and use any car buffing compound.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions thanks so much
How do you repair the bottom of the tub if you didn't take out enough of the excess? The bottom is pretty uneven and almost has a valley in it. Any recommendations?
I would recommend sanding it how you want with 220-320 grit sandpaper. Then if you don't need more material double the grit to 600 then 1500 then use any car buffing compound to bring the shine back. If after sanding you need more material we have pour on touch up kits that are the same material you already used just a smaller amount or you could even use the non slip kit if it's just the bottom.
In the beginning, all the bath tub walls looked great but in several minutes they were covered with ripples. Can it be from the heater in the bathroom? I started fixing it with the roller and it looks terrible now. Wavy and partially rippled areas. Now I have to buy another kit to repair the ugly bathtub. I just want to know why the material went from beautiful to rippled? Please respond.
It self levels out had you left it it would have leveled itself out. But because you touched it with the roller it made things worse. Thats why we always say if it looks bad leave it, if you touch it it can make it worse. Also remember you only have an hour to work with this material
@@RefinishedBathSolutions Thank you very much for your response! I really don't know what to do now.. I called this morning the company # and the girl advised me to sand the tub and buff it with the car buffing compounds, and I would be very happy with the results. She said there was no need for me to buy another kit, but I'm not sure if buffing would work, and if it will, how long would it last, and will the tub require buffing regularly from now on to keep it "nice"? I'm a girl and I don't know a lot about this stuff:((. Also, can you tell me if I was wrong to leave the working heater in the bathroom while working on the project? It was probably hotter than 75F.. The tub front skirt is very uneven, wavy, bumpy and rippled, and the other sides of the tub walls look much thinner with the streaks on it, and in certain parts barely covering the original walls. Also, if I buy another kit to redo the whole tub, will it become much thicker as a result of installing the material twice? And the last question would I have to sand the whole tub before installing the material? Basically, the whole tub now looks terrible and wavy. PLEASE advise, and thank you in advance.
@@Vitarusvita I had a space heater running in the doorway of my small bathroom for several hours during and after pouring the ekopel. I left it alone and it finished smooth.
Unfortunately I bumped the front of the tub on my last pass at the drain. Trying to "fix" it after the initial hour is what likely caused ripples like where I tried to touch up.
I have to do some touching up on one of the inside walls in my bathtub... do I have to pour it in on the entire side or can I just do it in the area where touch up is needed?
You can just pour where the touch up it needed the martial will blend
The touch up kit did not come with mixing instructions. How long to mix , let set, then remix before pouring?
Stir for 5-10 minutes.
I took a chance earlier and stirred for 10 mins..
Do you have to sand the entire surface that you are repairing including the top rail surface. Wipe down with anything?
Randy Russell just the damaged areas.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions I only see a 100 gram kit on the website.
There is a tab to switch from 100-300
If the damaged spot is inside the tub, can it be fixed in the same way? A fly dropped on the bottom when the surface was already sticky. A damaged spot was left over after the fly was removed. Can you provide a video to show how to repair small damaged area? Thanks!
Yes it can be repaired similarly. I would recommend heating up where the gun is with a heat gun or hair dryer then remove the bug with tweezers. Then sand the affected area smooth with 220-320 grit sandpaper. Then if you need more material you can get a touch up kit to fix.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions The bug has been removed. Now the coating is already set and hard. After sanding, shall I still use roller to apply the material to cover up the damaged area? I am not sure if the transition to the surrounding area could be seamless. Thanks!
What can i fix my bathroom tile and tube after lots of bumps and grout that came lose while using ekopel.can someone tell me.should just do it all over .over the first one and will smooth it out.
You can redue it with ekopel but you would need to sand it smooth first with 400 grit sandpaper then give the tub a deep clean wih lysol power. then you will be ready for ekopel application.
Why would you attenpt to use it on a wall with loose grout? And bumps? Did you not prep the area at all? Or did you expect the stuff to hide everything and keep the grout from falling out? Is like spray painting dirt then asking the paint manufacturer how to make the paint not come off of it..
This video is for "touch up" but you then "repaint" the entire front. I have some dust and a bug that flew in. How do I fix those without redoing the entire thing? Also, if I sand and wax, do I have to rewax after each cleaning with detergent? I refinished tub 18 hours ago.
I would recommend hand sanding those area smooth and then applying the touch up kit with your fingers. The wax is like when you wax your car. It will last a while then you will have to reapply every now and then.
How long do you need to wait before retouching an area?
Wait 36-48 hours for the first coat to fully dry and harden then can go back in.
Can you do a couple of videos showing the biscuit color that is also offered for sale?
Can uneven drip lines be polished out and if so, what grit sandpaper do you recommend??
Yes you can sand those smooth with 220-320 grit sandpaper then double it to 600 then 1500 grit sandpaper. Next use a car buffing compound to bring the shine back. The best way to understand how to buff is to watch a TH-cam video on how to buff a drip mark out of a car. That will teach you all you'll need to know about buffing.
Could I re-pour Ekopel over the drip marks without re-sanding ad an option?
@@darylyoung7675 Which method did you try
How long does it take a touch up area to dry?
Brian Whitis 24 hours.
How do you fix drips
I would recommend sanding it smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper then double the grit to 600 then 1500 then use any car buffing compound to bring the shine back. If after sanding you need more material I would recommend our pour on touch up kit to fix.
Hi! I’ve watched at least 10 vids of yours and noticed you insist on using Ekopel on most projects.
So I was curious why you would recommend this specific product, especially compared to Rust-Oleum. (Although the price difference is incomparable)
1. How long does this product last? And when does it start to chip off?
2. When this does chip off, do I paint the whole bathtub again? Or can I do a spot treatment.
3. Can this be applied on granite countertops as well?
4. I don’t mind the price as long as the product works. Being that said, would you recommend TC 5000 or Ekopel or Rust-Oleum on a fiberglass tub
Thank you for the vids:)
inu esther Ekopel never chips off. Rustoleum is a heavy solvent paint. You need to wear a respirator and have an exhaust system to use it.
Ekopel is 99% solids and doesn’t have a chemical smell like this.
Ekopel drys at 1/8th of an inch thick. Rustoleum is about as thick a sheet of paper. Tub cast is 50% the thickness of Ekopel.
For a fiberglass tub with surround a gallon kit tub cast is my only recommendation.
For a tub only Ekopel is always my recommendation.
Ekopel is very hard to use on walls this is why we created tub cast 5000. It flows better and bonds very well to fiberglass.
For longevity they are both equivalent to a brand new tub. With routine cleaning and maintenance they will last indefinitely.
Refinished Bath Solutions
So your suggestion is to use Tub Cast 500 since I have the fiberglass tub with surround?
I know in the previous videos, you said the difference between Ekopel and Tc5000 is the thickness. But how about it’s durability?
Cuz I would like to use one that’s more durable and lasts longer.
If I do use TC5000, how much do I need?
Oh, and I tried to search this product on amazon but couldn’t find it. Where can I get tc 5000?:)
(So many questions 😂 I just read some horrible reviews of the outcomes. Trying to avoid any of that as much as possible)
Thanks again:)
inu esther refinishedbathproducts.com on a fiberglass unit a gallon kit of tub cast 5000 is my only recommendation.
It will last as long as a brand new unit. If it’s cleaned and maintained it will last indefinitely. For Ekopel and tub cast if all directions are followed with no added or subtracted steps great results will be obtained. Any added steps or skipped steps are 99% of negative feedback. That said both of these products are the highest rated bathtub refinishing products available.
"Don't touch it. Don't. That's how you got into trouble in the first place."
Are you spying on me?!
🤣
Kn