You can't get much better than this for a how to, step-by-step clutch replacement video for the E36 chassis. Keep up the good work and informational videos guys. Thank you.
Best video on the E36 clutch & flywheel IMHO. It was recorded in pretty much real time AND included the reassembly as well (no "installation is the reverse of removal crap").
I never had any formal automotive repair education, it has been a hobby of mine since before I could drive (legally). There are two paths you can take to become a professional auto technician, you can go to school and jump straight into it when you're done, or you can do like I did and start at the bottom (changing tires and oil) and learn everything you can, and along the way prove your worth and work your way up the ladder.
Wow, probably one of the top ten videos of all time! I don't I had ever been able to sit down and watch an hour video on the youtube before but I did this in a single sitting. I don't even own a BMW or a rear wheel drive car but your video had me spell bound.
There are a couple of pros, 1) The clutch feels more responsive and controllable with a solid flywheel, 2) A solid flywheel has less moving parts and less chance of failure. one of the negatives to the solid flywheel is that more drivetrain noise is present, (you can hear the transmission more etc..). Overall I am very happy with the Solid flywheel
Wow I have to say I think this is one of the best E36 clutch removal and install videos I've ever seen and its in very well describe detail this guy nailed it down to the T he aced it this guy is the Ace of all Spades thanks again man I'm definitely going to do this on my E36 3-Series soon! Good job and we'll done! 👍
I followed this video to remove my transmission. Using a pry bar, the trans would slide back only about 3/4" inch. I found that the starter was stuck to it. The best way to unstuck it is to thread the bolts back in part way, put the socket and extensions on each bolt and whack them with a hammer to drive the starter off. It's probably a good idea to do this before removing any of the other bolts as a matter of course because the starter is positioned by a dowel and it can get corroded. Once the starter is unstuck, the trans will slide back very easily. Also, the trans is very light. Maybe about 35 lbs. Much lighter than the rear differential. Also, a good way to keep track of which bolts go where (there are three different sizes) is to poke them through a piece of cardboard in the pattern they appear on the bell housing.
He buddy, awesome step by step video. After watching your video, I'm not scared to tackle my own conversion on my 97 Z3 M44 with the same Getrag 250. I only have 1 problem and sadly it's the beginning of the Memorial Weekend and I just realized this last night, when everyone is closed for the holiday weekend. Torque values for the flywheel in the Valeo brochure included in the box are 110 Nm but nothing stipulated for the pressure plate; Torque values in your video, flywheel 105Nm and pressure plate 25 Nm on the provided bolts in the kit being 10 grade; Torque values from the Q&A at FCP Euro, flywheel 105 Nm and pressure plate 25 Nm; Torque value from another video referring to the book, flywheel 89 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) and pressure plate 18 ft. lbs.(24.4 Nm). Based on your professionalism and the FCP Euro Q&A being wrong about claiming the flywheel is aluminum, I would want want to go with your instructions but there may be a possibility that Valeo found 105 Nm to be too loose and updated the torque value to 110 Nm. What a mess!!! I love your video, though. I'm also skeptical about the flywheel being rusted upon arrival in the box and getting worse for the last 5 months. I sanded the hell out of it and it looks like new again but it's a funky granulated salty red oxide rust and not the typical red oxide dust. I wanted to spray it with epoxy primer but everyone keeps telling me that's normal. Anyway, enjoy your weekend and have a Happy Memorial Day!!! Thanks for the video!!!
Addendum: Just about to do my clutch tomorrow. Just two extras I'd add (this is on my 4-cyliner 318iS): I'm going to fit new starter motor brushes while I'm at it, since apparently the starter is easier reached from below; and I'm going to fit a new brass pivot pin for the clutch release lever to replace the plastic original (that's the little knob you smeared anti-sieze on).
This is a fantastic tutorial! Thanks! Worth mentioning that it would have been a great time to service trans input/output seals, Guibo, drive shaft center support bearing, trans mounts, etc. If you have it out, might as well.
I know this is for the clutch but this was a very helpful visual tutorialish video on the exhaust I took mine out to put headers turned out the didn't fit so then I had to put exhaust back on by myself and that didn't work and seeing how it goes back on is very helpful +1
Thanks, actually we do not wash the underside before making the videos. But it never hurts, you can wash the underside even with the battery connected, it won't get any wetter than driving in the rain.
This was so much help thanks for posting this! I will have to do a clutch job in my e46 m3 pretty soon and this made it look so simple now to choose on my clutch and fly wheel
Glad you got it done! are you talking about the aluminum heat shielding? The main purpose of that is to keep heat and noise out of the interior cabin, it shouldn't hurt anything by leaving it out.
Thank you for this rundown it is well done, can I offer a word of caution as an owner of a Z3 I learnt the costly way, to lower the engine as shown it will pay to watch the clearence of the fan in the shroud and the stress on the heater demister hoses to the body mounted hot water control valve. Regards Kevin J. Au.
Sorry I don't recall the exact size used, but I know they were standard sizes, so if you were to buy just a standard set, you should be covered with everything you need.
tttmmmnnnttt It should be just about identical, there may be small variances but I think you can use this video as a basic template for the repair job.
yes very possible, make sure to perform a through inspection though, depending on the year, the driveshaft and the rubber inserts also make noise when they where out.
Absolutely helpful with all directions..thank you so much..and i wanted to ask if you have any directions about how to replace the obc 7 buttons with the 18 buttons....thank you again.
As a mechanic, I just want to say, I love BMW when they are running, but I HATE them when I have to work on them. Is BMW familiar with the term 'over engineered'??? But still better than working on a front wheel drive pos. Awesome video by the way, this has helped me out a ton, thanks.
sadly there seems not to be a complete kit for m43b18 engines even tho i know for sure that its possible to replace the dual shitflywheel with a single mass. Anyway great video !
Holy shit, I've never had a gearbox slot into place as easily as that! (At 38:00) You lucky bugger! I just hope I'm as lucky when I do mine. I've got a one-piece flywheel ready to fit - a lightweight one, because the standard one feels heavy and slow when changing gear. After watching your video I've ordered a rear oil seal and spigot bearing, thanks for the tip. And the long bolts for the gearbox cross-member are a good trick. Thanks! I'm used to doing the clutch on my old Escort single-handed, not sure about the Beamer. Depends if I can borrow or devise a gearbox jack, probably. Thanks for the video!!
This vehicle is incredibly clean. Do you guys wash the undersurface of the car before doing a job like this? Is that a reasonably safe thing to do as long as the battery is completely disconnected?
How has the single mass flywheel changed the overall drive-ability and comfort level of the car? I'd imagine more vibrations would make its way to the passengers without the dual mass flywheel. I'm debating going down this route as well, but would dread clutch chatter. Thanks, any input is appreciated!
The answer to this would probably depend upon the person and how in tune with the car he or she is. The owner of this car is very in tune with how it rides and noticed the change but it wasn't too bad and doesn't mind it. You will feel more vibration and more of the mechanical force of the clutch including chatter by going away from a dual mass flywheel. Unless you get to drive someone's that has been converted and actually feel the difference, you would be gambling converting if you don't want to feel the chatter.
APDTY How you've described the owner, I am in tune with the car and would likely notice such a change. I wouldn't mind some added vibration since I actually feel none in standing neutral! But I will definitely consider it still since my 323 is just a weekend car. Thanks for the info and extremely thorough video!
good job there man your video has really educated me. However, if i may point out something, please avoid exposing yourself to all car oil and grease it might catch up with you one day. latex gloves is of great help. abut again thanks a lot for the video
Thanks for the great video, one question: I have read on many articles on removing the driveshaft that you need to mark the alignment of the shaft to the flanges of the transmission and diff so that when you re-install the driveshaft it lines up exactly where it was for balance reasons. I didn't see you do this or make any mention of it in the video. Was there any reason for this? Thanks.
This driveshaft is a two piece unit, if replacing the driveshaft carrier bearing is part of the repair then marking the two pieces for alignment is very important. The driveshaft to transmission flange is also a important alignment area to note, the coupler is marked with arrows to align the flanges for the torsional load. In this video the tech only removes 3 of the 6 bolts, just removing the driveshaft flange side. Leaving the couple still attached to the transmission to keeping it's correct alignment.
I’ve been doing some reading and I’ve heard that no lubricant is required on the throw out bearing guide tube or fork other than the input shaft itself because clutch dust can mix with the lube and cause for friction. Should I lube it or not?
hi guys . should the transmission spline be a little loose where you can move it from side to side and up and down a little or should it be stiff. ok please let me no if you have an answer.thank You and great video
One more question for you was not topped gently with roller blades in the gearbox once a shield suwa? (working) and new bearing in the crankshaft to the shaft in a crate?
Was hopeing to see you replace the Trans Front Seal. Suprised you didn't go ahead and do that while you had it apart. The parts I received came with a seal that has a flange on it but my transmission's original seal did not have a flange. Do you think that will be a problem? I'm wondering if using that new seal will interfere with the tube with the 4 bolts the clutch arm slides on that bolts over the seal area...
Resealing the transmission is always a good idea when the trans is out. This car has had the trans out before though but we could have mentioned the seals.
Very nice and informatif video. I have an E46 99 323i Limo, and i have to do a clutch replacement. I heard that you have to tip the motor in order do reach the gear box? Could you give me please any advice... Greetings from Luxembourg
Yes, It is always good practice to put removed parts back exactly as they came out. The drive-shaft itself is balanced and many times depending on the car manufacturer it is mounted to the differential and/or transmission in an optimum position to balance the entire drivetrain. It is very rare but you could actually create a new vibration by unbalancing a previously manufacturer balanced drivetrain.
Originally these models comes with Dual Mass Flywheel? Why was the dual mass flywheel useful? for no vibrations from engine only? When u replace with the solid one, what do u win / lose ?
A dual mass flywheel does a few things. First it really helps gets rid of most of the chatter or grabbing between the clutch disc and the flywheel, this is why it transfers power better (2nd point below) and also why it feels smoother Second, A DMF transfers the power from the motor to the transmission more efficiently. Anytime power is transferred you lose a little bit of HP, this is why an engine can produce a certain horsepower itself and then if you check the horsepower at the wheels, you have lost some. Thirdly, It prevents gear damage or wear and tear in the transmission from the chatter, Chatter is basically the stiff single flywheel trying to be grabbed by the clutch disc while it is spinning, their is no give like a dual mass flywheel which is really 2 spring loaded flywheels The problem with a DMF is typically the cost and how you use the vehicle, This can get very specific to how the vheicle is used. For instance if you are a racer that changes the engine or adds a turbo and you have a standard DMF, well it might wear out quicker as it may have not been designed for that kind of load. Also if you tow you could overload the DMF. With that said, most newer cars are using them for efficiency and a smooth ride. If you keep the car stock and the car is designed with a DMF, then it is usually a smoother overall rider. It is really pretty interesting technology and it has been around a long time. Older Diesel trucks used to come with the to help absorb the slamming of the clutch disc and transmission. If you have seen a tractor trailer switching gears and jumping around, that is an extreme example of chatter.
Good video, do you know how much lighter that flywheel is than the older on?? And the brand I think is valeo right?? I whant to do this job on my BMW, how it drives, feel. Thanks I appreciate you help
The single mass flywheels are much lighter just not as smooth. We did have Valeo at that time but the brands have changed a little bit as Valeo is OEM to many manufacturers and sometimes they will only sell through a dealership. If you can find the Valeo kit for your specific make and model that is what we used. It will have a difference in the feel and some people notice it more or less than others. You would feel more of the chatter or slight vibration as the clutch disc material grabs the flywheel.
Great Video but 2 questions. Don't you need to remove the starter motor? Also the driveshaft should be put back in exactly the same position using marks?
Don’t know if you have stopped uploading or what not but, I purchased a fx stage 3 kit + flywheel but there is no dowel pin. Bought straight from grip force
The starter is located on the drivers-side top of the bellhousing. The starter bolts were unbolted while removing all the bolts around the bellhousing.
Nice video. Did mine over the w/e. pain in the behing. My insulation fell apart and i had to cutoff most of it. Whart is its purpose or should i think about replacing it?
I have a question about te grease/sealant you used on the rear main seal. Should I use the blue, black, red, Ultra copper...? There are a lot of different temperature ratings and different characteristics (sensor-safe, oil resistant...) and I was wondering which on is important for this application. I have the blue that is sensor-safe and that resists to 450F, will it be sufficient? Thanks
Just did this job on mine. Now my I can put it in gear let off the clutch and it doesn't stall, I can also put it in gear without touching the clutch. Any ideas on what it could be?
are there any more negative sides to this swap? I need to change my DMF (and clutch ofcourse) but its out of stock and no one can supply me the right one, they only have SMF conversions available. Like, do i lose Torque ? Or does the drivetrain vibrate more ? It would really help me decide if some of these doubts can be taken away.
Many thanks..do you also have a DIY about the auto gearbox?Or how to change oil and filters in the ZF auto.I know BMW says says maintenance proof but I rather have it replaced every 100k miles
Yeah for liability reasons we usually refer back to BMW's maintenance recommendations which are mostly in the owners manual. You can certainly change some of the fluids when the mileage gets high, but its somewhat without BMW's consent. We have changed trans fluid with a tool that just sucks out and replaces the fluid, we also use only BMW fluids. Here is a link to the excavator tool we used: www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1400691512&sr=1-2&keywords=mightyvac
Auto Parts Direct To You thx..useful link.I will order one.In the meanwhile I found a vid about changing oil and filter.Not that difficult to do.Cleaning will be the hardest job :)
- great tips , highly recommended. Will this clutch kit fit e46 zhp 6 speed? zhp has a rattling dual mass flywheel, so what do you think is better to eliminate the noise and still have a smooth shift ?
Here is a link to the parts we used available at Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OHV5WOW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00OHV5WOW&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=ZK5CUXCTDAGD4KG6
Hello I have a question about the instrument for the establishment of a simeringu on the crankshaft where you can buy or was executed alone, and (2) the question of the centring roller shield sprzęgłową where I purchased or catalogue numbers in such instruments. Thank you in advance for your reply
+Lukas Salcius not knowing your exact vehicle info. Most flywheel mounting bolts are torqued to 80-100 ft lbs and pressure plate mounting bolts are about 20 ft lbs
Thank you for the video it is very helpful, i just purchased all of my wear and tear parts and the clutch kit today, do you thing that i can do this without a lift, and if so how much clearance would i need?
I know this is old but NEED HELP just finished up a install on a my bmw e36 328i and I was having a problem when i fully pressed down the clutch everything worked fine when the pedal wasnt pressed all the way. I put it back on the lift and took out the transmission i saw that the fork was grinding on the pressure plate on the outside. How could i go along fixing this?
Enjoyed the vid ! Sure wish I had lift in my garage. R&R'd my 2000 328i auto trans on jack stands........arghhhhh. Just little ole me..........double arghhhhh!
+Raksasok Heng The clutch system is just for engagement and disengagement the drive input. If your having a hard time or hear/feeling a grinding, this is most likely the synchronizer ring within the transmission.
Great video! thanks! I have a question about the main seal replacement, did you need to drain the engine oil in order to replace the seal without oil pouring out? thx
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
THE BEST DIY ON TH-cam. N0 STUPID MUSIC OR SIMILAR. EVERY STEP IS COVERED SO MOST STUPID MAN CAN DO SERVICE!!! 5 STARS!!!
You can't get much better than this for a how to, step-by-step clutch replacement video for the E36 chassis. Keep up the good work and informational videos guys. Thank you.
Best video on the E36 clutch & flywheel IMHO. It was recorded in pretty much real time AND included the reassembly as well (no "installation is the reverse of removal crap").
I never had any formal automotive repair education, it has been a hobby of mine since before I could drive (legally). There are two paths you can take to become a professional auto technician, you can go to school and jump straight into it when you're done, or you can do like I did and start at the bottom (changing tires and oil) and learn everything you can, and along the way prove your worth and work your way up the ladder.
Wow, probably one of the top ten videos of all time! I don't I had ever been able to sit down and watch an hour video on the youtube before but I did this in a single sitting. I don't even own a BMW or a rear wheel drive car but your video had me spell bound.
awesome, thanks for watching!!
There are a couple of pros, 1) The clutch feels more responsive and controllable with a solid flywheel, 2) A solid flywheel has less moving parts and less chance of failure. one of the negatives to the solid flywheel is that more drivetrain noise is present, (you can hear the transmission more etc..). Overall I am very happy with the Solid flywheel
You must have never tasted a DMF then.
This made the job infinitely easier now that I've learned how to do it. My 325i is due for a new clutch. Thanks for being so informative.
Wow I have to say I think this is one of the best E36 clutch removal and install videos I've ever seen and its in very well describe detail this guy nailed it down to the T he aced it this guy is the Ace of all Spades thanks again man I'm definitely going to do this on my E36 3-Series soon! Good job and we'll done! 👍
awesome, thank you for watching and commenting, we appreciate it!!
Top notch video. Dude explains everything.I followed his front strut tutorial for my E36 and everything was spot on. You sir are a master!
Wow! Fantastic vid. It is so rare to find such comprehensive videos of these large services. Two thumbs up!
Its 2018 and im watching this to work on my e46, I thank you sir you just made my job easier 💯
glad it helped, thanks for watching!!
Probably been said, but make sure and mark the drive shafts position before removal. They are balanced at the factory.
I followed this video to remove my transmission. Using a pry bar, the trans would slide back only about 3/4" inch. I found that the starter was stuck to it. The best way to unstuck it is to thread the bolts back in part way, put the socket and extensions on each bolt and whack them with a hammer to drive the starter off. It's probably a good idea to do this before removing any of the other bolts as a matter of course because the starter is positioned by a dowel and it can get corroded.
Once the starter is unstuck, the trans will slide back very easily. Also, the trans is very light. Maybe about 35 lbs. Much lighter than the rear differential.
Also, a good way to keep track of which bolts go where (there are three different sizes) is to poke them through a piece of cardboard in the pattern they appear on the bell housing.
35lbs?🤣🤣🤣you’re trippin this shit is heavy as fuck ive done my diff multiple times and the trans is WAYYYY heavier
He buddy, awesome step by step video. After watching your video, I'm not scared to tackle my own conversion on my 97 Z3 M44 with the same Getrag 250. I only have 1 problem and sadly it's the beginning of the Memorial Weekend and I just realized this last night, when everyone is closed for the holiday weekend.
Torque values for the flywheel in the Valeo brochure included in the box are 110 Nm but nothing stipulated for the pressure plate;
Torque values in your video, flywheel 105Nm and pressure plate 25 Nm on the provided bolts in the kit being 10 grade;
Torque values from the Q&A at FCP Euro, flywheel 105 Nm and pressure plate 25 Nm;
Torque value from another video referring to the book, flywheel 89 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) and pressure plate 18 ft. lbs.(24.4 Nm).
Based on your professionalism and the FCP Euro Q&A being wrong about claiming the flywheel is aluminum, I would want want to go with your instructions but there may be a possibility that Valeo found 105 Nm to be too loose and updated the torque value to 110 Nm.
What a mess!!! I love your video, though. I'm also skeptical about the flywheel being rusted upon arrival in the box and getting worse for the last 5 months.
I sanded the hell out of it and it looks like new again but it's a funky granulated salty red oxide rust and not the typical red oxide dust.
I wanted to spray it with epoxy primer but everyone keeps telling me that's normal.
Anyway, enjoy your weekend and have a Happy Memorial Day!!!
Thanks for the video!!!
Addendum: Just about to do my clutch tomorrow. Just two extras I'd add (this is on my 4-cyliner 318iS): I'm going to fit new starter motor brushes while I'm at it, since apparently the starter is easier reached from below; and I'm going to fit a new brass pivot pin for the clutch release lever to replace the plastic original (that's the little knob you smeared anti-sieze on).
Damng lots of work, but lots of clarity thanks to your speaking through it and the cameraman.
This is a fantastic tutorial! Thanks! Worth mentioning that it would have been a great time to service trans input/output seals, Guibo, drive shaft center support bearing, trans mounts, etc. If you have it out, might as well.
Awesome video. Now I just need to figure out how I will drop my trans in the garage with just a floorjack and jack stands....
I know this is for the clutch but this was a very helpful visual tutorialish video on the exhaust I took mine out to put headers turned out the didn't fit so then I had to put exhaust back on by myself and that didn't work and seeing how it goes back on is very helpful +1
Thanks, actually we do not wash the underside before making the videos. But it never hurts, you can wash the underside even with the battery connected, it won't get any wetter than driving in the rain.
this video got me working on my car, few years ago. :) much thanks for that.
awesome!!! thanks for watching!
+Raycher The cleaner is brake clean. Brake clean is a great cleaner that does not leave any residue behind.
if you drop the back gear box mounting who will not need any special extension you can then see the bolts
On the rear dif instead of a hammer to loosen the four bolts you could wedge a big screw driver in there as leverage.
Ее я себе сам поменял благодаря этому видео все понятно и четко! Респект!
37:54 holy shit was my reaction too! that never happens haha!
This was so much help thanks for posting this! I will have to do a clutch job in my e46 m3 pretty soon and this made it look so simple now to choose on my clutch and fly wheel
I watched the whole video, and I enjoyed it.
I don't know you, but I can 100% certainly say I could leave my car with you.
Nice working man :)
Glad you got it done! are you talking about the aluminum heat shielding? The main purpose of that is to keep heat and noise out of the interior cabin, it shouldn't hurt anything by leaving it out.
good video. nice to see someone aware of the cameras view. think i will have a go at my clutch now when it goes. thanks.
awesome, thanks for watching!!
@20:10 Did you just ball-peen a pilot bearing in by the inner race? very bad form..
Thank you for this rundown it is well done, can I offer a word of caution as an owner of a Z3 I learnt the costly way, to lower the engine as shown it will pay to watch the clearence of the fan in the shroud and the stress on the heater demister hoses to the body mounted hot water control valve.
Regards Kevin J. Au.
Excellent! I wanted to see a detailed howto for not just the clutch, but the flywheel as well on a rwd vehicle. Thanks!!
This is exactly what I was needing to attempt this in my driveway. Thanks a Ton!!
At 11:43 you talk about the inverted torx nuts. Any Idea what size that is that you used? I'd hate to buy a set and not have the right one in it. :-(
Sorry I don't recall the exact size used, but I know they were standard sizes, so if you were to buy just a standard set, you should be covered with everything you need.
tttmmmnnnttt It should be just about identical, there may be small variances but I think you can use this video as a basic template for the repair job.
E10, E12 and E14, as per other videos.
@@likits1999haha 10 years later. I guess it’s good for the future viewers. 😂
Thank you, E36 has the noise coming from the back of the engine. So that means the fly wheel is starting to eat the clutch.
yes very possible, make sure to perform a through inspection though, depending on the year, the driveshaft and the rubber inserts also make noise when they where out.
Now I precisely know how to change my clutch. Great video!!!
Great video man. It was extremely helpful! There is definitely more work on a bmw then a Japanese rwd car.
it really depends on what car you have. my e36 325is is actually a lot easier to work on than my 2003 g35
I am watching in 2020 - what a great video, thanks for posting
Absolutely helpful with all directions..thank you so much..and i wanted to ask if you have any directions about how to replace the obc 7 buttons with the 18 buttons....thank you again.
Long but excellent video.well done and good job👍👍👍
Excellent DIY video for the E36. Very well done!
This by far is an absolutely fantastic video step by step good job guys keep it up
As a mechanic, I just want to say, I love BMW when they are running, but I HATE them when I have to work on them. Is BMW familiar with the term 'over engineered'??? But still better than working on a front wheel drive pos. Awesome video by the way, this has helped me out a ton, thanks.
awesome, thank you for watching!!
Thank you very much for this amazing video. I will be doing this pretty soon, and now i know what to expect and should consider changing as well.
awesome, thanks for watching and commenting!! we appreciate it.
Does the Valeo SMF have the indentation near the outer edge for the TDC locking pin?
Watching him not lock the driveshaft was really funny
sadly there seems not to be a complete kit for m43b18 engines even tho i know for sure that its possible to replace the dual shitflywheel with a single mass. Anyway great video !
Holy shit, I've never had a gearbox slot into place as easily as that! (At 38:00) You lucky bugger! I just hope I'm as lucky when I do mine. I've got a one-piece flywheel ready to fit - a lightweight one, because the standard one feels heavy and slow when changing gear. After watching your video I've ordered a rear oil seal and spigot bearing, thanks for the tip. And the long bolts for the gearbox cross-member are a good trick. Thanks!
I'm used to doing the clutch on my old Escort single-handed, not sure about the Beamer. Depends if I can borrow or devise a gearbox jack, probably.
Thanks for the video!!
This vehicle is incredibly clean. Do you guys wash the undersurface of the car before doing a job like this? Is that a reasonably safe thing to do as long as the battery is completely disconnected?
Is there supposed to be any sort of gasket between the bellhousing and the motor ?🔔 Amazing video by the way👏🏽
nope, nothing is sealed in the bell housing
How has the single mass flywheel changed the overall drive-ability and comfort level of the car? I'd imagine more vibrations would make its way to the passengers without the dual mass flywheel. I'm debating going down this route as well, but would dread clutch chatter. Thanks, any input is appreciated!
The answer to this would probably depend upon the person and how in tune with the car he or she is. The owner of this car is very in tune with how it rides and noticed the change but it wasn't too bad and doesn't mind it. You will feel more vibration and more of the mechanical force of the clutch including chatter by going away from a dual mass flywheel. Unless you get to drive someone's that has been converted and actually feel the difference, you would be gambling converting if you don't want to feel the chatter.
APDTY How you've described the owner, I am in tune with the car and would likely notice such a change. I wouldn't mind some added vibration since I actually feel none in standing neutral! But I will definitely consider it still since my 323 is just a weekend car. Thanks for the info and extremely thorough video!
good job there man your video has really educated me. However, if i may point out something, please avoid exposing yourself to all car oil and grease it might catch up with you one day. latex gloves is of great help. abut again thanks a lot for the video
Thanks for the great video, one question: I have read on many articles on removing the driveshaft that you need to mark the alignment of the shaft to the flanges of the transmission and diff so that when you re-install the driveshaft it lines up exactly where it was for balance reasons. I didn't see you do this or make any mention of it in the video. Was there any reason for this?
Thanks.
This driveshaft is a two piece unit, if replacing the driveshaft carrier bearing is part of the repair then marking the two pieces for alignment is very important. The driveshaft to transmission flange is also a important alignment area to note, the coupler is marked with arrows to align the flanges for the torsional load. In this video the tech only removes 3 of the 6 bolts, just removing the driveshaft flange side. Leaving the couple still attached to the transmission to keeping it's correct alignment.
Very good video, well taught methods and good practices/tips!
Sir, Super nice job!! You are a Great Teacher!!
I’ve been doing some reading and I’ve heard that no lubricant is required on the throw out bearing guide tube or fork other than the input shaft itself because clutch dust can mix with the lube and cause for friction. Should I lube it or not?
hi guys . should the transmission spline be a little loose where you can move it from side to side and up and down a little or should it be stiff. ok please let me no if you have an answer.thank You and great video
One more question for you was not topped gently with roller blades in the gearbox once a shield suwa? (working) and new bearing in the crankshaft to the shaft in a crate?
Was hopeing to see you replace the Trans Front Seal. Suprised you didn't go ahead and do that while you had it apart. The parts I received came with a seal that has a flange on it but my transmission's original seal did not have a flange. Do you think that will be a problem? I'm wondering if using that new seal will interfere with the tube with the 4 bolts the clutch arm slides on that bolts over the seal area...
Resealing the transmission is always a good idea when the trans is out. This car has had the trans out before though but we could have mentioned the seals.
Very nice and informatif video. I have an E46 99 323i Limo, and i have to do a clutch replacement. I heard that you have to tip the motor in order do reach the gear box? Could you give me please any advice... Greetings from Luxembourg
At 37:56 - an absolute miracle! I know, because I've been there.
Do I need to put a mark on the driveshaft and the differential ?
Yes, It is always good practice to put removed parts back exactly as they came out. The drive-shaft itself is balanced and many times depending on the car manufacturer it is mounted to the differential and/or transmission in an optimum position to balance the entire drivetrain. It is very rare but you could actually create a new vibration by unbalancing a previously manufacturer balanced drivetrain.
Originally these models comes with Dual Mass Flywheel? Why was the dual mass flywheel useful? for no vibrations from engine only? When u replace with the solid one, what do u win / lose ?
A dual mass flywheel does a few things.
First it really helps gets rid of most of the chatter or grabbing between the clutch disc and the flywheel, this is why it transfers power better (2nd point below) and also why it feels smoother
Second, A DMF transfers the power from the motor to the transmission more efficiently. Anytime power is transferred you lose a little bit of HP, this is why an engine can produce a certain horsepower itself and then if you check the horsepower at the wheels, you have lost some.
Thirdly, It prevents gear damage or wear and tear in the transmission from the chatter, Chatter is basically the stiff single flywheel trying to be grabbed by the clutch disc while it is spinning, their is no give like a dual mass flywheel which is really 2 spring loaded flywheels
The problem with a DMF is typically the cost and how you use the vehicle, This can get very specific to how the vheicle is used. For instance if you are a racer that changes the engine or adds a turbo and you have a standard DMF, well it might wear out quicker as it may have not been designed for that kind of load. Also if you tow you could overload the DMF. With that said, most newer cars are using them for efficiency and a smooth ride. If you keep the car stock and the car is designed with a DMF, then it is usually a smoother overall rider. It is really pretty interesting technology and it has been around a long time. Older Diesel trucks used to come with the to help absorb the slamming of the clutch disc and transmission. If you have seen a tractor trailer switching gears and jumping around, that is an extreme example of chatter.
Best video ever. I will attempt this in my garage on my e39 540i. Hopefully its similar. Thanks again for the video
Good video, do you know how much lighter that flywheel is than the older on?? And the brand I think is valeo right?? I whant to do this job on my BMW, how it drives, feel. Thanks I appreciate you help
The single mass flywheels are much lighter just not as smooth. We did have Valeo at that time but the brands have changed a little bit as Valeo is OEM to many manufacturers and sometimes they will only sell through a dealership. If you can find the Valeo kit for your specific make and model that is what we used. It will have a difference in the feel and some people notice it more or less than others. You would feel more of the chatter or slight vibration as the clutch disc material grabs the flywheel.
Great Video but 2 questions. Don't you need to remove the starter motor? Also the driveshaft should be put back in exactly the same position using marks?
Don’t know if you have stopped uploading or what not but, I purchased a fx stage 3 kit + flywheel but there is no dowel pin. Bought straight from grip force
Thx, Bob from Belgium.
I want to know how you pulled the transmission without doing anything with the starter or was that just forgotten about
The starter is located on the drivers-side top of the bellhousing. The starter bolts were unbolted while removing all the bolts around the bellhousing.
Very good video. Could you tell me please the benefits of a solid flywheel clutch converted kit over a dual mass flywheel. Many thanks.
Nice video. Did mine over the w/e. pain in the behing. My insulation fell apart and i had to cutoff most of it. Whart is its purpose or should i think about replacing it?
Thanks, very helpful video.
I have a question about te grease/sealant you used on the rear main seal. Should I use the blue, black, red, Ultra copper...?
There are a lot of different temperature ratings and different characteristics (sensor-safe, oil resistant...) and I was wondering which on is important for this application.
I have the blue that is sensor-safe and that resists to 450F, will it be sufficient?
Thanks
it appeared to be like 2008 model from beneath .
, and thanks for ths awesme video posted.
Just did this job on mine. Now my I can put it in gear let off the clutch and it doesn't stall, I can also put it in gear without touching the clutch. Any ideas on what it could be?
are there any more negative sides to this swap? I need to change my DMF (and clutch ofcourse) but its out of stock and no one can supply me the right one, they only have SMF conversions available. Like, do i lose Torque ? Or does the drivetrain vibrate more ? It would really help me decide if some of these doubts can be taken away.
Many thanks..do you also have a DIY about the auto gearbox?Or how to change oil and filters in the ZF auto.I know BMW says says maintenance proof but I rather have it replaced every 100k miles
Yeah for liability reasons we usually refer back to BMW's maintenance recommendations which are mostly in the owners manual. You can certainly change some of the fluids when the mileage gets high, but its somewhat without BMW's consent. We have changed trans fluid with a tool that just sucks out and replaces the fluid, we also use only BMW fluids. Here is a link to the excavator tool we used:
www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1400691512&sr=1-2&keywords=mightyvac
Auto Parts Direct To You thx..useful link.I will order one.In the meanwhile I found a vid about changing oil and filter.Not that difficult to do.Cleaning will be the hardest job :)
I have a DIY about the auto gearbox. It's called auto to manual swap.
In General, it is ok. I hope more such videos and people. And not just a service.
- great tips , highly recommended. Will this clutch kit fit e46 zhp 6 speed? zhp has a rattling dual mass flywheel, so what do you think is better to eliminate the noise and still have a smooth shift ?
Here is a link to the parts we used available at Amazon:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OHV5WOW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00OHV5WOW&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=ZK5CUXCTDAGD4KG6
What if you just use blue grease on the transmission shaft parts instead- of the different greases and anti sieze you used?
Absolutely helpful. Thanks much!
Hello I have a question about the instrument for the establishment of a simeringu on the crankshaft where you can buy or was executed alone, and (2) the question of the centring roller shield sprzęgłową where I purchased or catalogue numbers in such instruments. Thank you in advance for your reply
Very helpful Video, Thanks for all your Videohelp.
Thank You for watching!!
You dnt need any grease on the outer part of the rear main seal only put Abit of grease on the inside of the seal
Amazing video. Very helpful. Thank you very much.
I'm going to replace the whole clutch set for my E39. Can you tell me the nm for flywheel and pressure plate? I would be really thankful.
+Lukas Salcius not knowing your exact vehicle info. Most flywheel mounting bolts are torqued to 80-100 ft lbs and pressure plate mounting bolts are about 20 ft lbs
I learned something in-fact I learned alot but one question. Do u have to go to School to be a mechanic? I never went and I do good on vehicles...
Iam gonna buy one of these or a e46, not sure yet.. but the hype is real! :)
Like the video a lot, really nice to see stuff like this :)
Thank you for the video it is very helpful, i just purchased all of my wear and tear parts and the clutch kit today, do you thing that i can do this without a lift, and if so how much clearance would i need?
+stephen heyer This repair can be done with the vehicle on jack-stands.
i bought a FX clutch stage 3 off ebay ....... i wonder if can still use my oem flywheel?.... on my 97 328i
I NEED HELP before i brake iit down
What size sockets sockets did you use for the inverted torque bolts ??
Hi... What's the difference between the old and the new flywheel please?
I have a question i got a 99 328i e36 what kinda clutch kit a dual mass or a single mass will work and which one can i pick from rockauto
I know this is old but NEED HELP just finished up a install on a my bmw e36 328i and I was having a problem when i fully pressed down the clutch everything worked fine when the pedal wasnt pressed all the way. I put it back on the lift and took out the transmission i saw that the fork was grinding on the pressure plate on the outside. How could i go along fixing this?
absolutely professional
Enjoyed the vid ! Sure wish I had lift in my garage. R&R'd my 2000 328i auto trans on jack stands........arghhhhh. Just little ole me..........double arghhhhh!
Hey man i have question . Do replace flywheel and CLUTCH KIT make transmission run smoother ?
+Raksasok Heng The clutch system is just for engagement and disengagement the drive input. If your having a hard time or hear/feeling a grinding, this is most likely the synchronizer ring within the transmission.
Any difference to the new DMF on f30 2012+ or is it relatively the same set up?
Great video! thanks! I have a question about the main seal replacement, did you need to drain the engine oil in order to replace the seal without oil pouring out? thx
Bohl199 No, the seal and crankshaft are actually above the oil level in the oil pan so no need to remove
APDTY Okay thanks for the response