Great video as always, been collecting homelies for 12 years now and you would not believe how much helpful info I have gotten from your channel, keep up the good work
Well thanks for sharing this Leon. I was searching your channel yesterday for solution to a no spark on the XL-1 I'm putting together. Couldn't find a better video than this one! Works great! My girlfriend was more comprehensive than I thought about chainsaw parts in the oven! Love your channel great works 👍
Have you tried running a points coil and a ignition chip (atomizer) The ignition chip takes the place of the points and condenser Could be an option just thinking out loud😀
..someone else here has mentioned it, but what I have done, with success, is take the coil from an old points-ignition parts saw(I have LOTS of those-probably more than any other saw), then use a universal aftermarket Atom, mega-fire, etc.electronic module with it..I mount it flat on the inside of the recoil housing on the bottom, near the back, with a tiny bolt and nut(with blue loctite)..that location is both near the coil and switch, but far enough away from the heat of the cylinder, and the flywheel fan can cool it..use just enough wire to connect it-about 1-1/2 to 2 inches-that you can get the recoil cover on and off without breaking it, but not so much wire it will get caught in the flywheel or starter..mount everything up, then plug up the module and switch right before re-installing the starter cover..works great..I've found those old points coils rarely go bad, and if the aftermarket chip conks out on you, all you have to do is replace it with a new one, and just plug everything back in..about 10 minutes...and, this repair is nearly undetectable, as the only thing that shows from the outside of the saw is the tiny bolt head on the bottom of the recoil housing, if you turn the saw up on it's side :)...maybe I should post a TH-cam video of this repair?..never posted before, though....
The Pioneer P series saws with the failing blue coil, I have heard that the Husky 272 coil can be adapted. I have a P38 I ordered a coil for, cross fingers.
Thanks Leon, video fits in the minds of us that restore/repair older saws. Sad to find these saws without their coils. Many of these coils were thrown into the trash and the saws put in the corner and labeled terminally ill.
I just run a old points coil with a Kawasaki chip 17.50 with the old flywheel hot spark works fantastic forget all that other crap hopefully this helps this is the fix for no lobe cranks,I ream out the hole a little and mount it on the rear coil bolt so it's not on the cover I use the coil wire rerouting it back underneath the coil to the chip never had one of these chips fail but the 2 wire aluminum chips had very little luck with them I only use the Kawasaki replacement ones with good luck so far hopefully this helps someone to get that super xl12 back out there throwing chips
I know I could use a piston and cylinder for a super xl. As for blue coil change to a black coil. I was able to take a xl2 black coil and put it in a 76 works great with electronic ignition module
My grandpa bought our Super XL12 in the early 70's and it's cut lots of firewood and still puts in good work. As a kid my Dad always took his mowers and chainsaws to this old hermit that was a master small engine mechanic by the name of Hubert. Hubert was in his 70's and always praised the XL12 saying it was one of the best, most reliable chainsaws ever built. Hubert hated plastic, and he really hated the 'automatic' bar oilers saying anyone that's run a chainsaw ought to know how to push a button to oil the bar while cutting blocking trunks. We'd take anything to Hubert and when he finished with it you could barely pull the starter rope and the engine would chug along at a ridiculously low rpm because he had it tuned so well. He'd then charge something like $10 plus whatever parts. I remember the sign in his little shop behind his trailer that stated 'Credit? Hell no, I'm poor to.' You made a mark Hubert, miss you.
I've had two of those black Chinese coils and neither worked. the latest thing are foreign made replicas of the blue Prestolites. ebay has them for $60.00 and Amazon has an identical looking one for $36.00 or so. The photos of the two different coils are exact in every detail so I took a chance on the Amazon foreign cheapy and when it doesn't fire I can drop back in Amazons lap, no charge..
6/26/22 The Amazon replica Prestolite works good, or at least makes excellent spark on the bench. I'll get back to you on how long it lasts on my SXLAO.
,Hey Leon, As I'm sure you are aware of, The points crankshaft and all the reciprocating pieces are like a tank compared to the electronic ignition parts which results in higher RPM🤗 I toured Wayne Sutton's chainsaw museum yesterday. What a kick in the ass! Great guy, And a guru on the history and information about all of them! I highly recommend a man such as yourself that enjoys saws as much as guys like us do make that trip! My door is always open for you and the family 😁 We would be honored to have you come are way. And of course there will be parting gifts to take back with you. I just may have more shit then one man really needs, But I don't like to see cool stuff in the wrong hands. But I would love to see them going home with you that I know would appreciate them.Have a great day my friend 😋
Took a flywheel and ignition setup out of a p26 carcass I had and it fires right up the base plate for the coil didn’t fit well. A few mods with a hammer and chisel and it fit after that. I still need to open it back up to loctite some screws for peace of mind but worked.
Im 70 years old. My father bought a new XL12 in the early 60,s. It replaced a awful sears saw that wasnt any good. First saw I ever ran. I still have the remains of dads saw. and about twenty other XL 12,s. I bought a old blue one 3 years ago at a auction for $10 and It ran. I have been using it when the half plastic Husky , stil and poulan saws often quit working. Eny Road I think I will sell all those plastic saws and fix a couple more Xl 12 ,s. I bought a new 923 in 1972 and it was never any good. It wouldnt start when hot. never idled worth a crap. NowI thinking back I suspect it always had a bad crank seal. Yesterday I took apart a non running super XL automatic. The screw behind the flywheel came out and chewed things up. It even has some broken fins on the flywheel. I attempted to install a lombard cyl and piston on a XL12. it did not fit. Those Lombards made the most delightful ear splitting noise. And would get the job done on big timber.
I'm looking for an Oregon 20 in replacement bar for a Super XLAO. Does anyone have an Oregon part number for the bar? The slot for the bar studs is aprx. .390 Most of what I've seen on the likes of Amazon the slot is only .315 so the bar won't go over the studs. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
I have an XL12 that had a bad Prestolite blue. We miss diagnosed it because it started cold and failed warm. I have 3 or 4 saws that need a permanent cure. I recently heard of brand new after market coils from a new maker that are built to high standards. I am going to investigate this much deeper to see if it's true.
Does moisture or oil make a difference? That is two things that can potentially affect a coil in reality, in daily use. If so, maybe coating the coil in raisin might be something tho try. The raisin used in electrical motors for instance.
@gibbyrockerhunter not sure where got vacuum tube from I meant the transistors inside the blue coils burn out easy cause they either get moisture in them or can't handle the fast switching
@gibbyrockerhunter I took a blue coil apart there is definitely a transistor beside the coil. I took a picture of it. I make custom brown atom modules so can use regular black coils with module which is more robust
@Tysman909 there is going to be a difference between the "ignition core" (brand name) or coil mudule and a coil. Prestolite made both. As well as other brands. Just like "adding a chip" but stock. The blue coils in the conversation are just that. Not another blue module. There are SS ignition module/coils offered now as replacements, but they are not the same.
Good luck finding the ignition coil. I have two of them and cannot find a replacement for it. The Chinese version doesn't work. Anything that is over 20 years old shouldn't be an issue. If you cannot find parts, then chuck the damn thing. The new chain saw is better and not as heavy. I couldnt even get the Chinese coil to even work. I don't even take them in to look at any more. They are not worth my effort and you cannot even get a coil that works.
Great video as always, been collecting homelies for 12 years now and you would not believe how much helpful info I have gotten from your channel, keep up the good work
Well thanks for sharing this Leon. I was searching your channel yesterday for solution to a no spark on the XL-1 I'm putting together. Couldn't find a better video than this one! Works great! My girlfriend was more comprehensive than I thought about chainsaw parts in the oven! Love your channel great works 👍
Have you tried running a points coil and a ignition chip (atomizer)
The ignition chip takes the place of the points and condenser
Could be an option just thinking out loud😀
..someone else here has mentioned it, but what I have done, with success, is take the coil from an old points-ignition parts saw(I have LOTS of those-probably more than any other saw), then use a universal aftermarket Atom, mega-fire, etc.electronic module with it..I mount it flat on the inside of the recoil housing on the bottom, near the back, with a tiny bolt and nut(with blue loctite)..that location is both near the coil and switch, but far enough away from the heat of the cylinder, and the flywheel fan can cool it..use just enough wire to connect it-about 1-1/2 to 2 inches-that you can get the recoil cover on and off without breaking it, but not so much wire it will get caught in the flywheel or starter..mount everything up, then plug up the module and switch right before re-installing the starter cover..works great..I've found those old points coils rarely go bad, and if the aftermarket chip conks out on you, all you have to do is replace it with a new one, and just plug everything back in..about 10 minutes...and, this repair is nearly undetectable, as the only thing that shows from the outside of the saw is the tiny bolt head on the bottom of the recoil housing, if you turn the saw up on it's side :)...maybe I should post a TH-cam video of this repair?..never posted before, though....
The Pioneer P series saws with the failing blue coil, I have heard that the Husky 272 coil can be adapted. I have a P38 I ordered a coil for, cross fingers.
Thanks Leon, video fits in the minds of us that restore/repair older saws. Sad to find these saws without their coils. Many of these coils were thrown into the trash and the saws put in the corner and labeled terminally ill.
I just run a old points coil with a Kawasaki chip 17.50 with the old flywheel hot spark works fantastic forget all that other crap hopefully this helps this is the fix for no lobe cranks,I ream out the hole a little and mount it on the rear coil bolt so it's not on the cover I use the coil wire rerouting it back underneath the coil to the chip never had one of these chips fail but the 2 wire aluminum chips had very little luck with them I only use the Kawasaki replacement ones with good luck so far hopefully this helps someone to get that super xl12 back out there throwing chips
Chicago Magneto sells ome style electronic coils.
I know I could use a piston and cylinder for a super xl. As for blue coil change to a black coil. I was able to take a xl2 black coil and put it in a 76 works great with electronic ignition module
My grandpa bought our Super XL12 in the early 70's and it's cut lots of firewood and still puts in good work. As a kid my Dad always took his mowers and chainsaws to this old hermit that was a master small engine mechanic by the name of Hubert. Hubert was in his 70's and always praised the XL12 saying it was one of the best, most reliable chainsaws ever built. Hubert hated plastic, and he really hated the 'automatic' bar oilers saying anyone that's run a chainsaw ought to know how to push a button to oil the bar while cutting blocking trunks. We'd take anything to Hubert and when he finished with it you could barely pull the starter rope and the engine would chug along at a ridiculously low rpm because he had it tuned so well. He'd then charge something like $10 plus whatever parts. I remember the sign in his little shop behind his trailer that stated 'Credit? Hell no, I'm poor to.' You made a mark Hubert, miss you.
Leon,
If the saw can be helped your the man to do it. The videos are always great. Call me if you would please.
I've had two of those black Chinese coils and neither worked. the latest thing are foreign made replicas of the blue Prestolites. ebay has them for $60.00 and Amazon has an identical looking one for $36.00 or so. The photos of the two different coils are exact in every detail so I took a chance on the Amazon foreign cheapy and when it doesn't fire I can drop back in Amazons lap, no charge..
6/26/22 The Amazon replica Prestolite works good, or at least makes excellent spark on the bench. I'll get back to you on how long it lasts on my SXLAO.
@@5hawks What's the latest on your coil from Amazon? I've baked mine and still no spark so I'm needing a new one.
@@oldtimer2843 It works great so far. Can't hardly believe there's finally a coil available for the old SXLs. Good luck if you buy one.
@@5hawks That's great to hear. Would you still happen to have the Amazon link for the one you got?
,Hey Leon, As I'm sure you are aware of, The points crankshaft and all the reciprocating pieces are like a tank compared to the electronic ignition parts which results in higher RPM🤗 I toured Wayne Sutton's chainsaw museum yesterday. What a kick in the ass! Great guy, And a guru on the history and information about all of them! I highly recommend a man such as yourself that enjoys saws as much as guys like us do make that trip! My door is always open for you and the family 😁 We would be honored to have you come are way. And of course there will be parting gifts to take back with you. I just may have more shit then one man really needs, But I don't like to see cool stuff in the wrong hands. But I would love to see them going home with you that I know would appreciate them.Have a great day my friend 😋
Great discussion. Thanks for sharing.
Took a flywheel and ignition setup out of a p26 carcass I had and it fires right up the base plate for the coil didn’t fit well. A few mods with a hammer and chisel and it fit after that. I still need to open it back up to loctite some screws for peace of mind but worked.
One option I've tried is a points coil and a points eliminator module.
I think the name of the points eliminator is Nova or Nova II. Oregon also sells one which is good.
Im 70 years old. My father bought a new XL12 in the early 60,s. It replaced a awful sears saw that wasnt any good. First saw I ever ran. I still have the remains of dads saw. and about twenty other XL 12,s. I bought a old blue one 3 years ago at a auction for $10 and It ran. I have been using it when the half plastic Husky , stil and poulan saws often quit working. Eny Road I think I will sell all those plastic saws and fix a couple more Xl 12 ,s. I bought a new 923 in 1972 and it was never any good. It wouldnt start when hot. never idled worth a crap. NowI thinking back I suspect it always had a bad crank seal. Yesterday I took apart a non running super XL automatic. The screw behind the flywheel came out and chewed things up. It even has some broken fins on the flywheel. I attempted to install a lombard cyl and piston on a XL12. it did not fit. Those Lombards made the most delightful ear splitting noise. And would get the job done on big timber.
Leon do you have a carbutor for a stihl chainsaw model ov11 carbutor model wt20
HB!!!that's a genuine OEM HomeBite coil big guy hahahaha
get a points setup with the flywheel from an older saw and put in a 16 dollar chip, you'll be good to go until the next emp
Is that XL12/SXL the most copied/produced saw ever (world wide)?
Sometimes a chip is the only option
If you have no clue of your own maybe.
How long do you leave the coil in the oven for. And what degrees celcius?
Hi , I was wondering if I can chip a 1964 C-91 ? Thank you Leon
I'm looking for an Oregon 20 in replacement bar for a Super XLAO. Does anyone have an Oregon part number for the bar? The slot for the bar studs is aprx. .390 Most of what I've seen on the likes of Amazon the slot is only .315 so the bar won't go over the studs. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for sharing buddy! Great info!
I have an XL12 that had a bad Prestolite blue. We miss diagnosed it because it started cold and failed warm. I have 3 or 4 saws that need a permanent cure. I recently heard of brand new after market coils from a new maker that are built to high standards. I am going to investigate this much deeper to see if it's true.
Let us know bud ,I just got a xl 12 ,with bad coil but in really good shape cheers
Same with the blue Ez coils also on the later ones
my coil is grey :/ same saw
Does moisture or oil make a difference? That is two things that can potentially affect a coil in reality, in daily use.
If so, maybe coating the coil in raisin might be something tho try. The raisin used in electrical motors for instance.
What are you referring to when you talk about RAISIN ? Do you mean RESIN as in fiberglass resin , a liquid mixture ? Thanks J K
How do you bake a coil
Same as you bake a tv dinner, but only at 200-250 degrees F
How long do I cook the blue one at 200°?
Try an hour
I did a dead coil 200 F 2 hours. Saw fires up now.
I baked for 20 min and it worked. Thank you
Bad transistors they use in the coils they can't handle fast switching burn out easy
You have no idea what you are talking about. Coils use vacuum tubes, not transistors. Lol
@gibbyrockerhunter not sure where got vacuum tube from I meant the transistors inside the blue coils burn out easy cause they either get moisture in them or can't handle the fast switching
@@Tysman909 there are no transistors inside the coil. It is a transformer energized by a permanent magnetic.
@gibbyrockerhunter I took a blue coil apart there is definitely a transistor beside the coil. I took a picture of it. I make custom brown atom modules so can use regular black coils with module which is more robust
@Tysman909 there is going to be a difference between the "ignition core" (brand name) or coil mudule and a coil.
Prestolite made both. As well as other brands. Just like "adding a chip" but stock. The blue coils in the conversation are just that. Not another blue module. There are SS ignition module/coils offered now as replacements, but they are not the same.
Good luck finding the ignition coil. I have two of them and cannot find a replacement for it. The Chinese version doesn't work. Anything that is over 20 years old shouldn't be an issue. If you cannot find parts, then chuck the damn thing. The new chain saw is better and not as heavy. I couldnt even get the Chinese coil to even work. I don't even take them in to look at any more. They are not worth my effort and you cannot even get a coil that works.
Saport USA not china