Just dropping by to say that we used your instructions today to clean the little air bladder and the trap. Completely cleared the F3 E1 code on our front loader and it works great again. Appreciate you!
Thank you very much. I am on the board of a nonprofit children's emergency shelter, and when kids come in, the shelter employees have to wash everything they bring with them. So it is vital to have a reliable, washing machine, and a large one at that. The shelter was having this issue and I was able to fix their problem with a $17 part that I bought through Amazon. Money is very tight at some of these nonprofits, so you really helped us and we thank you very much!!
Your instructions to clean the little air bladder and the trap has completely solved my problem , I thought I needed a new machine. Alarm is cleared and machine works great again. Appreciate you!
Very helpful video with clear instructions. I had the E01 F03 code and I needed to reset it otherwise the drain pump would keep running. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you for the great video! My machine was completely locked out with F3 E1 code. We had already checked and cleaned the coin trap (it was clear, but gunky). Used your video to remove and clean the air dome (it was really gunky), and disconnected the pressure hose from the pressure switch and blew it out to check for leaks/debris (it was clear). But the real gold in your video was the revelation of the technician repair manual under the top lid - made everything SO MUCH EASIER! Ran the full diagnostic mode, cleared the codes, and ran the quick test diagnostic. Saved me at least $75 for a repair technician call, and no parts needed to repair. Just needed a little cleaning. Thank you so much!😉
I figure your video saved me $75 at least - amazingly the air dome and coin trap were pretty clean, but the washer is back up and running with a new pressure switch and air hose. Thank you!
Had a old green cleaner pad clogging the filter of the drain trap + pennies, rocks, srews and gunk! Had hard time to figure how to srew the trap back in place, you have to put the right part of the filter at the bottom and top, but finally did. No more error code! Thanks!
I can’t recall ever seeing one of those switches go bad however I have seen the black hose gets smashed at the very top bracket from the heavy lateral movement It’s just as bad as having a restriction it gets flattened. Thank you for posting this too because I forgot how to clear codes on this model and someone removed the Bible ( tech sheet) smh😢
We had lo Flo error and replaced the water inlet valves. still had lo Flo but would finish after 2 cycles. So we replaced the pressure sensor now have the f3 e1 code and can't get it into diagnostic code. How can we reset the machine. ours model is WFW6620HC0
After changing the sensor, tube, clearing the bladder, the quick service screen was performed and the F3E1 code still appears. I have tried to clear the code as well. What could the issue be?
If you have the dryer on top of that washer and it has a metal bracket connecting the washer and the dryer?I believe it still wouldn’t prevent you from taking the back panel off of the washer.
I would unplug washer, take off top panel, manually unlock door lock. Door lock has a manual door release on top, plastic loop pull up. I believe the drain pump is continually on because control board senses problem and locks the door. I would go by the video if no clogs found . I would replace the pressure switch. Hope this helps.
Hi there, I got the same E1 F9 error code. I have emptied and cleaned out the drain filter- a dime, an old money clip and hair ties inside. Tried running the quick diagnostic and it stopped again at C7. Drained it again, this time popped off the pressure switch hose and black bladder and it was full of gunk. Cleaned it all out and re-attached. Ran a spin and drain cylcle with no code thrown, but the washer was empty.....Then I ran a normal load and it stopped at min 34 out of 43 and same code for Long Drain. Would you advise a new pressure switch and hose or should I just go for replacing the drain pump? I suppose I will look into ordering both parts since my manual doesn't really tell me how to decipher between the two possible problems..... Any Suggestions? Thanks for the great video!
If the water is not draining when you have an issue, I would go with the drain pump. Let us know what fixed it. The drain pump or the pressure switch and hose?
@@appliance63 I replaced both as amazon had both parts the switch for 17 dollars arrived first, did not fix the issue, new drain pump arrived two days later and after install- presto fixed!
I replaced the sensor, ran a drain and spin, all good. Then set it to self clean mode as it was smelly, all good. I then put a load of laundry for short cycle (what we always run because who has time for laundry) and it then showed the error again. Please help! Thank you.
If you did the rest of the stuff that’s in the video like replace the pressure switch hose, clean out the pump trap, and that housing that the pressure hose goes into. Small chance, but it can also be the main control board.
I’m sorry to hear that. Did you check the air dome and the drain pump trap for obstructions? Also, the sensor pressure hose could have a leak in it if you didn’t replace it already. Is the drain pump working?
@@appliance63 Thank you for the reply, our replacement part was bad, too. Third time is a charm! Followed your tips with a GOOD replacement part and it worked! Thank you!
I purchased my appliance parts from Marcone, Encompass, and Reliable. Other names, you can, Google our parts select.com, appliance parts pros.com, and repair clinic.com. Slight chance, but you can get a bad new part from all these companies that was a part that someone returned.
Hello and thank you for this! We have that same exact Whirlpool washer WFW75HEFW (new 2017) and it has that exact code (F3E1). I have cleaned out the pump trap and checked the hose and air dome as you did (didnt find any blockage). I have ordered a new Whirlpool water level sensor (W10448876) as I believe this is our issue. Must I go into the diagnostic mode and clear the code for the machine to operate correctly after I replace the sensor? Thanks Paul
Hi Paul, the control board should recognize that it doesn’t have any more issues. But in some instances, it may need assistance in clearing the codes and running it through diagnostic mode. Hope everything works out for you. Let me know the outcome.
In order to eliminate the E01 F03 error codes, the Whirlpool Washer Manual said to check the filter for debris. You checked the trap!?? Please explain...
The drain pump filter, trap is the part that screws into the drain pump. You have to remove the back panel to get access to it. It’s in the video with how to check the air dome at the Seventh and eight minute.
I’m sorry to hear that. Did you check the air dome and drain pump trap for obstructions? Also, the sensor pressure hose could have a leak in it if you didn’t replace it already. Is the drain pump working?
C0 is the first step in the diagnostic mode. The door lock supposed to lock, unlock and then lock again. then it should advance to C1 and so on as in the video. If the door is locked and will not unlock it has a manual unlock ring or pull string. Make sure the washer is unplugged.
Do you have the part numbers for the switch and hose you used? I cleaned everything out and still have the f3 e1 error codes, guess ill have to try and replace some parts now.
The part for model number in the video pressure switch W10448876 and the pressure switch hose is W11044559. You could also put your model in online appliancepartspros.com and look for the part numbers. Let us know how it goes.
@@appliance63 I haven't had time to reach back out but I just wanted to say thank you so much for your video and providing me with the part numbers for the repair. 2 weeks ago I got the parts in and was able to repair my washer, it's been running great since then. Thanks again.
I had that happen to me too on a similar model before and after repair. The drain pump was continuously on. What I saw was that the door was locked and when I manually unlocked it, the drain pump was not constantly on any more.
@@appliance63 well this one I have sitting outside the damn pump stays on once you plug it in no lights showing Sept door lock which can be manually open by pulling the tab up inside. Will say the box for detergent that has two hoses running to it is really trash trying to take them off they break which follows to spend 150$ estimate by a repair man was giving me information on parts and money so why waste money for pump and detergent box just get another one. Plus you have senors to replace or motherboard, when you replace one thing others follow behind it.
If you have the service tech manual on the washer, you can follow their procedures. I just replaced the water level pressure switch. It was about $20-$30.
@kylevonahn8564 You get your model number and put it in online. There’ll be a lot of vendors to pop up go in and look for your part that is needed in the pictorial diagram. You can buy the part anywhere online or at your local Appliance Parts supplier now that you have the part number.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
Just dropping by to say that we used your instructions today to clean the little air bladder and the trap. Completely cleared the F3 E1 code on our front loader and it works great again. Appreciate you!
Great to hear!
Thank you very much. I am on the board of a nonprofit children's emergency shelter, and when kids come in, the shelter employees have to wash everything they bring with them. So it is vital to have a reliable, washing machine, and a large one at that.
The shelter was having this issue and I was able to fix their problem with a $17 part that I bought through Amazon. Money is very tight at some of these nonprofits, so you really helped us and we thank you very much!!
Glad it was helpful!
Your instructions to clean the little air bladder and the trap has completely solved my problem , I thought I needed a new machine. Alarm is cleared and machine works great again. Appreciate you!
Great to hear!
Very helpful video with clear instructions. I had the E01 F03 code and I needed to reset it otherwise the drain pump would keep running. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge!
Glad it helped
Thank you for the great video! My machine was completely locked out with F3 E1 code. We had already checked and cleaned the coin trap (it was clear, but gunky). Used your video to remove and clean the air dome (it was really gunky), and disconnected the pressure hose from the pressure switch and blew it out to check for leaks/debris (it was clear). But the real gold in your video was the revelation of the technician repair manual under the top lid - made everything SO MUCH EASIER! Ran the full diagnostic mode, cleared the codes, and ran the quick test diagnostic. Saved me at least $75 for a repair technician call, and no parts needed to repair. Just needed a little cleaning. Thank you so much!😉
Thank you for sharing your repair story. Happy to hear that the video was a benefit to you and you got your washer fixed.
I figure your video saved me $75 at least - amazingly the air dome and coin trap were pretty clean, but the washer is back up and running with a new pressure switch and air hose. Thank you!
Nice work!
We replaced the pressure switch followed your instructions .Our machine works perfectly now .A big thanks from Montreal Quebec Canada 🇨🇦 👍👍
I appreciate your response. Happy to hear your washer is working.
Excellent video, thanks a lot! Cleared both codes, trap was full of dirt , money and hair ties. Rubber bladder was crapped up as well😮
Happy to hear that you fixed it.😊
Thanks. Your video saved me some money. Good job
Great to hear!
Had a old green cleaner pad clogging the filter of the drain trap + pennies, rocks, srews and gunk! Had hard time to figure how to srew the trap back in place, you have to put the right part of the filter at the bottom and top, but finally did. No more error code! Thanks!
Nice work! And thank you for the tip.
I can’t recall ever seeing one of those switches go bad however I have seen the black hose gets smashed at the very top bracket from the heavy lateral movement It’s just as bad as having a restriction it gets flattened.
Thank you for posting this too because I forgot how to clear codes on this model and someone removed the Bible ( tech sheet) smh😢
Thank you for your help
Video helped us to fix our washer machine 😊
Happy to hear you fixed it.
Thanks Sr for everything it was helpful you video thaks thanks
Happy to help
We had lo Flo error and replaced the water inlet valves. still had lo Flo but would finish after 2 cycles. So we replaced the pressure sensor now have the f3 e1 code and can't get it into diagnostic code. How can we reset the machine. ours model is WFW6620HC0
After changing the sensor, tube, clearing the bladder, the quick service screen was performed and the F3E1 code still appears. I have tried to clear the code as well. What could the issue be?
Did you check the drain pump trap?
Thanks I have a stacked unit. Will the back come off while the dryer is on top?
If you have the dryer on top of that washer and it has a metal bracket connecting the washer and the dryer?I believe it still wouldn’t prevent you from taking the back panel off of the washer.
We have a washer just like that it shows that code also but when you plug it in the drain motor runs and the door does not open any idea what it is?
I would unplug washer, take off top panel, manually unlock door lock. Door lock has a manual door release on top, plastic loop pull up. I believe the drain pump is continually on because control board senses problem and locks the door. I would go by the video if no clogs found . I would replace the pressure switch. Hope this helps.
@@appliance63 thanks for the info I will try that and let you know tomorrow
I manually unlocked the door and now it's working fine thanks for your help!
If there is a true issue it could happen again .Unless it was a control board glitch.
Hi there, I got the same E1 F9 error code. I have emptied and cleaned out the drain filter- a dime, an old money clip and hair ties inside. Tried running the quick diagnostic and it stopped again at C7. Drained it again, this time popped off the pressure switch hose and black bladder and it was full of gunk. Cleaned it all out and re-attached. Ran a spin and drain cylcle with no code thrown, but the washer was empty.....Then I ran a normal load and it stopped at min 34 out of 43 and same code for Long Drain. Would you advise a new pressure switch and hose or should I just go for replacing the drain pump? I suppose I will look into ordering both parts since my manual doesn't really tell me how to decipher between the two possible problems..... Any Suggestions? Thanks for the great video!
If the water is not draining when you have an issue, I would go with the drain pump. Let us know what fixed it. The drain pump or the pressure switch and hose?
@@appliance63 I replaced both as amazon had both parts the switch for 17 dollars arrived first, did not fix the issue, new drain pump arrived two days later and after install- presto fixed!
@@preschoolcreativedancewith5196 I’m having the same problem , could I get a link for that part please?
I replaced the sensor, ran a drain and spin, all good. Then set it to self clean mode as it was smelly, all good. I then put a load of laundry for short cycle (what we always run because who has time for laundry) and it then showed the error again. Please help! Thank you.
If you did the rest of the stuff that’s in the video like replace the pressure switch hose, clean out the pump trap, and that housing that the pressure hose goes into. Small chance, but it can also be the main control board.
We have followed your video and replaced the sensor and are still getting the F3 E1 error. What else could it be?
I’m sorry to hear that. Did you check the air dome and the drain pump trap for obstructions? Also, the sensor pressure hose could have a leak in it if you didn’t replace it already. Is the drain pump working?
@@appliance63 Thank you for the reply, our replacement part was bad, too. Third time is a charm! Followed your tips with a GOOD replacement part and it worked! Thank you!
@@angiesheets8185 happy to hear that you fixed it. That sure can throw anybody for a loop when a new part is bad.
Having the same problem where did you purchase a good sensor from?
Thank you
I purchased my appliance parts from Marcone, Encompass, and Reliable. Other names, you can, Google our parts select.com, appliance parts pros.com, and repair clinic.com. Slight chance, but you can get a bad new part from all these companies that was a part that someone returned.
Hello and thank you for this! We have that same exact Whirlpool washer WFW75HEFW (new 2017) and it has that exact code (F3E1). I have cleaned out the pump trap and checked the hose and air dome as you did (didnt find any blockage). I have ordered a new Whirlpool water level sensor (W10448876) as I believe this is our issue. Must I go into the diagnostic mode and clear the code for the machine to operate correctly after I replace the sensor?
Thanks
Paul
Hi Paul, the control board should recognize that it doesn’t have any more issues. But in some instances, it may need assistance in clearing the codes and running it through diagnostic mode. Hope everything works out for you. Let me know the outcome.
@@appliance63 OK Thank you
@@appliance63 OK Thank you
Happy that it worked out for you. I’m sure your shared information would be helpful to others. Thanks.
Thank you sooo much it was very helpful
You're welcome!
In order to eliminate the E01 F03 error codes, the Whirlpool Washer Manual said to check the filter for debris. You checked the trap!?? Please explain...
The drain pump filter, trap is the part that screws into the drain pump. You have to remove the back panel to get access to it. It’s in the video with how to check the air dome at the Seventh and eight minute.
I have a code that keeps popping up E1 F9 do you know what that is
F9 E1 is a long drain code. Take off the lid and see if the service tech manual is taped to it.
I’m getting f1 E1 code , replaced the same sensor and still have the same problem 😢
Any ideas? Thanks
I’m sorry to hear that. Did you check the air dome and drain pump trap for obstructions? Also, the sensor pressure hose could have a leak in it if you didn’t replace it already. Is the drain pump working?
My washer is stuck in C0 after i replaced the drain pump, any idea what it could be
C0 is the first step in the diagnostic mode. The door lock supposed to lock, unlock and then lock again. then it should advance to C1 and so on as in the video. If the door is locked and will not unlock it has a manual unlock ring or pull string. Make sure the washer is unplugged.
I’m having the same issue. Were you ever able to get past C0? This washing machine has been a real piece of trash..
Is the F3 E1 code the same as Fe3 and E01 code?
The video shows F3 E1 code. I don’t think F3 is the same as Fe3 code. But E01 code can mean E1 code.
Do you have the part numbers for the switch and hose you used? I cleaned everything out and still have the f3 e1 error codes, guess ill have to try and replace some parts now.
The part for model number in the video pressure switch W10448876 and the pressure switch hose is W11044559. You could also put your model in online appliancepartspros.com and look for the part numbers. Let us know how it goes.
@@appliance63 I haven't had time to reach back out but I just wanted to say thank you so much for your video and providing me with the part numbers for the repair. 2 weeks ago I got the parts in and was able to repair my washer, it's been running great since then. Thanks again.
Happy to hear that you got your washer fixed.
How do you remove the top cover?
Worse junk to ever buy, got a 2016 model now just the pump makes noises when you plug it in
I had that happen to me too on a similar model before and after repair. The drain pump was continuously on. What I saw was that the door was locked and when I manually unlocked it, the drain pump was not constantly on any more.
@@appliance63 well this one I have sitting outside the damn pump stays on once you plug it in no lights showing Sept door lock which can be manually open by pulling the tab up inside. Will say the box for detergent that has two hoses running to it is really trash trying to take them off they break which follows to spend 150$ estimate by a repair man was giving me information on parts and money so why waste money for pump and detergent box just get another one. Plus you have senors to replace or motherboard, when you replace one thing others follow behind it.
Are there no tests for the pressure switch or just shooting the parts cannon at it?
If you have the service tech manual on the washer, you can follow their procedures. I just replaced the water level pressure switch. It was about $20-$30.
Where do you get the pressure switch
@kylevonahn8564 You get your model number and put it in online. There’ll be a lot of vendors to pop up go in and look for your part that is needed in the pictorial diagram. You can buy the part anywhere online or at your local Appliance Parts supplier now that you have the part number.