2011 Honda Accord Rear Brake and Rotor Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video, I show how to replace the rear brakes and rotors on a 2011 Honda Accord. This involves using a special tool to wind back the pistons, as well as drilling out the screws that hold the rotor on.
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Great video. Everyone who does this job has the perfect tool to wind back the brake disc so the calliper fits over the new pads. It's the metal edge of one of the used brake pads you just took off. The metal backing of the pad is just thick enough to go into the + on the front of that disc and you can turn it by hand or with a vice grip holding the old brake pad. It's so perfect I'm sure somebody at Honda design must have done this on purpose but nobody put it in the repair guide.
I have the little cheap square tool and it always does the job. Never thought about the brake pad working just as well though. Brilliant.
Awesome sause! I was wondering how I can twist this without a tool!!
Thank you. Video was right on the money for my 2011 Honda Accord. Also, I used the edge of a 1" Wood Chisel to turn (Clockwise) the Piston back in.
ragsamar that’s clever, I use a pair of needle nose pliers “opened slightly”
Thanks. Very good video explaining all the stuff I need to know in a good way. I will change my back breaks next week now :)
In addition to the great information he provided, always clean factory coatings from new and still usable used rotors...they may flash rust lightly on the surface but that is normal and is removed by the pads. Brake rotors rust all the time...it is normal.
Also be sure to add the brake grease to the back of the pad that sits between the caliper piston and the rotor...it will prevent brake squeal and help transfer heat back into the caliper.
Dude, your video saved me! I've changed brake pads 3 times in my life, so I thought I knew what I was doing. I was trying to use a damn c-clamp to push that piston back, then i bought a heavy duty spreader, the piston won't budge..I was getting so frustrated, like wtf is wrong..do I need to bleed out the brake line or something. Then I saw your video and I'm like oooooooh got to twist the effing thing...
My buddy. Told me the same thing about low break fluid. I had no idea. I had to change my front brakes and rotors as well. Thanks. Next are the back ones too.
I just did brakes on a 2011 Honda Accord Crossover, the rear calipers were the push in type not screw in. Just a fyi in case you're working on one. Thanks for the video.
Me too.
Im guessing if you see the big "X" then it must turn, vs push back in. Always something, or a special tool that they want you to buy, to do simple maintenance
Great video , has all the looks and info needed to do this job right
Thank you so Much Matt
Now this is what i call a tutorial!
Thanks. I hadn't seen the turning caliper before today. Had to improvise.
Thank you... headed out this morning to change mine.
Those screws that hold the rotors in place will come out pretty easily by putting a #3 phillips screw driver in them (firmly) and give it a couple real Good whacks (the Screw driver) with a hammer & that shock wil bust them loose...works every time! Also, if you have trouble holding the bracket spacers in place while starting the bolts you can put a dab of grease on them to hold them in place while starting your bolts!
Great video. The only thing I'll add is that the brakes should be bleed, even though the system wasn't open. Brake fluid isn't made to last forever. Most brake fluid is recommended to be changed every 50,000-100,000 miles. Worth bleeding the brakes to get new fluid in the entire system. I only use Honda specific fluids, except oil. Their coolant, brake fluid, transmission fluid and power steering are all superior in Honda's because the fluids are engineered specifically for Honda parts.
I manufactured a tool to turn the caliber in. I took a three quarter inch piece of pipe and ground for nachos in it to make a look like a tee And used a pair of players to turn the caliber back in. It was a simple solution before buying tools
Yeah , good job. Well explained. Thanks
Great tutorial. Great video work too, most people have blurry or missed items. We'll done.
Great and very helpful video!!! Thanks!!!
Great video but I'm having trouble putting the caliber back on but the pistons are not sliding back and forth like when you took the one part to the table
3/8 extension fits
Use a hammer impact tool Thor’s screws come right out. And clean the rust off the ears of you cal bracket and caliper. With a wire brush
good job
What lube you using mine don’t look that dark.
Channel locks if you don’t have the kit
18:07 that was bad, you can hear the scraping noise.
What caused the noise?
@@youremakingmesomad The rotor rubbing against the dust cover.
I accidentally took the spring off the back of my brake line. Anyone know a good way to get out back on?
You did not mention the torque requirement for bolts?
Good n tight
The clips wont seat correctly unless you clean the caliper bracket, the rust kind of expands
I learn that myself too. Thought my breakpads where to big :)
YOU EVER HEARD OF A TORQUE SCREW DRIVER.
Use stainless and it wont be rusting like that
You forgot to put the screws back in the rotor.
Dont realy need them
@@regalakitas9498 Exactly. Do people think a screw that small and soft actually is important? Its just for the assembly line work so the rotors stay snug, and dont fall off during production