@@ohnaw223 He was a writer for one of the best car magazines of the 90s - early 00s "Sport Compact Car". I also remember him being a really active member on the old SR20 / Sentra SE-R forums back in the day.
Build it!!! Build up the dang .thing ..we want the play by play...drips of assembly drops...Loctite the blue and the red. Torque specs ,tips and tricks too...we want engine dyno runs numbers and graphs....big red lines an numbers through the roof . Love sr cant get enough
Would love you guys to do a video on the assembly of this engine to completion, including turbo and manifold. Be great to hear you do a segment on engine management.
What an absolute treat in this age we get information like this on hand from decades of experience. Thanks for generously sharing your knowledge (with the engineering justification) Mike!
I've been binging Lake Speed's Motor Oil Geek and Total Seal videos. Mazworx and Tekno Toyz are legendary. Been dreaming about having a Mazworx DE block for ages
I dont have that much experience so keep at mind that my own build is more an "amateur" build rather than an ultimate build, but thing i learned on SR20 since 10 years: 1-Oil pump => Go for either an GTI-R or SR16VE oil pump. Both have wider internals, resulting in more flow (and more pressure for the later). A minor adaptation is needed though, like a new collard for the crank (with is now diven by 2 wolfkey rather than 1), a 5mm shorten crank pulley and a relocation TDC indicator. It's rumored that SR20VE oil pump cover are a bit stronger and have the same are SR16VE internals. 2-Conrod = you can get some brands who use GTI-R bearings, switching from 17mm wide to 19mm wide. 3-Mains bearings = use Nismo or Tomei for the oil gallery on both sides. IDK if ACL do the same. 4-I'm not a fan off dual guide on the rocker arm, for what i understand you need to shim your rocker arm properlly if you dont wana throw them. Use the special tool (or make one) which is placed on the lifter location and mesure carfully with a comparator the heigt difference between your 2 valves. If done correctly (+/-0.025mm between them) you done with rocker arm problems, except if your using an agressive rev limiter or anti lag (the exhaust valves can lift from those). 5-Never use a rocker arm stopper 😠 6-For a non track only car, i recomand 4032 alloy pistons instead of 2618. There are less thermal expantion on 4032 so way less piston slack than 2618, and there are stong enough for more than enouth hp to daily drive. (4032 piston example : HKS, Mahle but there is no hole for oil squiter on this one) 7-Oil pan, obviously larger capacity + baffle but i recommand stainless rather than aluminium. The oil drain tend to wear the threads really quick on aluminium, but you can use an Helicoil to prevent that. I use Tomei japan N1 pan, + 0.8 liter and quite nice looking too. 8-Valve guide, dont cheap on that. They wears down quickly because of the rocker arm design, aftermarket ones are suposly a bit stonger, but the main thing is check the valve on the guide, 0.3mm is the max at max lift. 9-Coil : use a good aftermarket one, R35/370Z or VAG R8 are greats, spitfire etc... are garbage. And last thing, the OEM SR20 is 8.5:1 CR, uping this to above 9:1 until just under 10:1 mean that you can still use gas pump 93, but your engine will be nicer at low rpm and spool your turbo faster. More than 10:1 E85 is needed. 😊
Did you listen in the video on how we keep the rocker level with dual guide shims? 4032 is about superfluous now days due to the much better piston designs than now run about the same piston to wall clearance with 2816. We rarely run 4032 anymore.
@@motoiq dont worry i didnt say you told a bad or a good thing in the video, i just tel what in learn by myself 👍 By better piston design you mean they overcome the downside of large expansion alloys with some new tricks ? I know that part of the coating on the piston skirt is partially use to reduce the slap for exemple. But in the end the "ultimate sr20" is for a track use focused build, so 2816 downside are not a thing anymore. But for the valve grind to adjust the rockers its a clever Idea, it's get rid of the whole shim stuff. But the guided shim actually exist in different heigth, but it's probalbly for solid lifters stuff (tomei make them).
@@LMSCa18det As a GTiR owner. Can't beat solid lifers (or quad throttle bodies. But that's another story.) On a close to 'money no-object' build. It's an odd omission given the reliability advantages. Especially if planning on a flat-shift and/or limiter bashing. Having a lifter collapse from frothy oil is a real risk at high loads/rpm/g-forces. This combined with ALS(if they plan to run that) or flat shift can bounce the valve and then you've got instability at both ends of the rocker. Solids give you you piece of mind (and the ability to run more aggressive cams ;) ) Excluding a VVL head upgrade (but they can toss shims as well, just ask Andre.) Dry-sump and solid lifters are the gold standard for track focused builds (not just SR's.) Just like the old SuperTouring cars did. Regards Jordan.
@@manitoublack on gtir sr you have a system on the lifter who lock the rocker the lifter ? with sr20, it's always a mater of keeping the rockers in place, everytimes they need the cam lobe in near contact with the upper part, the 2 valves and the the lifter. If not, the rocker can move and will move. I was thinking about retrofiting in the valve train like the VVL head, but with custom rocker with an ajustement screw like in k20. No need to have a dual lift, just a rotative rocker instead of the one on DE head, with a screw to set valve play witout any shim.
Yes they have way better skirt shapes now with thermal analysis. The slapping noise is much less reduced. At least JE, CP, Mahale, wisco etc, the better companies.
Words of wisdom! Thanks for a video on the SR engine, I hope to see a video on the RB from you, especially with your knowledge. Thanks for taking the time to talk to us!😊
I think the ultimate SR needs a VE head but hard to find these days. My ultimate love is the SR, things have come a long way from 15 years ago when i used to have mine.
This is excellent information. Thanks so much. I recently had a failure after 10 years of use. Standing behind the engine my piston 1 front right valve relief burnt. Piston 2 front right valve relief cracked. Piston 3 ringland broke on the intake side. My 1st n 2nd piston rings were perfectly fine but the top and wavy oil ring were snapped. Piston 4 appears fine but the exhaust side valves were saturated in oil looking through the cylinderhead. I'm still tearing down the engine. Next I will remove pistons 1, 2 and 4
I do Autocross and you certainly get things much hotter and stressed even doing that compared to anything you could ever do on the road and that's nothing compared to track or drift. Road usage is so soft on an engine 😂
@@motoiq I just got one and this was ur most recent video so I thought I could get a reply. The general info on the internet isn't great on these cars yet.
FYI...my long gp doc always said that his patients would complain how he always prescribed the most expensive meds on the market...same here they won't have to come back because they didn't work...they're better😂
@motoiq Mike,aside from the huge following that Lemons has the Caterham, Locost, and Lotus 7 crowd all love bike engined cars. They've converted me. My next project is going to be a Locost chassis with a bike engine. Those things are awesome.
I don't think it's huge, I don't know anyone who cares about that stuff except the people doing it. Those articles didn't do to well on MotoIQ.com except the Miatabusa. I could be wrong. I wish Dave would get back into normal cars.
LOVE this segment Mike! I know this is may be sore spot for you but I gotta ask🙂 I'm an old head of the early SER days that grabbed a '02 QR25 Spec when they launched w\ 33K miles on it, do you have any plans to touch on the QR? 😁
People who think cryo treating and WPC are snake oil are idiots. I spent over 20 years in aviation. A lot of aircraft parts are cryo treated. Pretty much all the rotating parts in a jet engine (fan, compressor, and turbine blades) as well as any gears are cryo treated (and sometimes laser peened). Media impact deposition application of dry film lubricants has AMS and DoD process specifications (DOD-L-85645 Rev. A). It's been in use for at least 25 years by the military. I suspect its been around longer than that jusr under a different spec number. I've seen F-16 flight control parts manufactured in the 80s that had some kind of dry film surface coating and a slightly pebbled texture like WPC.
Yes. I’ve had one break off on my stock s13 sr20. The fix is very simple though, which is to buy the s14/s15 oil pickup. It bolts straight on and has a revised pickup shape, stronger support bracket, and more thorough brazing on the end of the tube.
So studs warp the block, heard that on this channel first. Is this feature unique to aluminum block engine? How much distortion would iron block see? Do we need a torque plate there?
Unfortunately the best ones sit behind Engineering Journal pay walls. If you're a university student or know someone who is, you could use their student credentials to gain access through their university's subscriptions. text books also exist Otherwise it's $5-50 per paper. Suffice to say, having read a few. they're very dry and can take some 'reading.' If you don't already have a good understanding of material science. You may not get much from the academic publications as they assume a high level of prior knowledge. I know that's not much help saying: "in order to learn about Z, you need to know Y. And in order to understand Y you need an understanding of X which you'll get from degree in materials science..."
@@motoiq Oh okay I watched it but was under the impression it was a build for a something less that 400hp. I will turbo the KA so this top and bottom end should be good for a soild 420hp build?
Don't think enough drivers understand the load braking in gear does to a engine especially rod bolts. Deceleration is the same load as acceleration. Losing your engine is automatic last place.
What do you say to the people who claim intakes with short runners like the Greddy lose a lot of low end torque and it's better to stick with the stock intake?
Considering a Mazworx basic sr20 rebuild is 10 grand I can only imagine how much this engine costs... You really have to want that sr20 to keep it over something more modern and cheaper.
I've been listening to this guy since the late 90's. This man knows his SR20s.
where did he share his knowledge back then? or like through what platform?
@@ohnaw223 He was a writer for one of the best car magazines of the 90s - early 00s "Sport Compact Car". I also remember him being a really active member on the old SR20 / Sentra SE-R forums back in the day.
The Legend Himself
Shit....totally spaced that out ! ya he is the king👌 I'm going to go find some old mags 😂 the magazine days was awesome.
@@ohnaw223 he engraved them into stone.
Build it!!! Build up the dang .thing ..we want the play by play...drips of assembly drops...Loctite the blue and the red. Torque specs ,tips and tricks too...we want engine dyno runs numbers and graphs....big red lines an numbers through the roof . Love sr cant get enough
What he 👆 said‼️
2nd
Step 1 for the ultimate SR is to get a VVL head. So much efficiency to be gained. Basically creating the K series within the SR world.
and it removes the stupid rocker arm problems from the regular heads too
You also unlock the ability to rev to about 9,000rpm with n1 camshafts and forged internals.
Would love you guys to do a video on the assembly of this engine to completion, including turbo and manifold. Be great to hear you do a segment on engine management.
Oooo i spy a P10/G20 😍 one of the best handeling chassis to grace this earth 🌎
What an absolute treat in this age we get information like this on hand from decades of experience. Thanks for generously sharing your knowledge (with the engineering justification) Mike!
Protect this man at all costs!
I've been binging Lake Speed's Motor Oil Geek and Total Seal videos. Mazworx and Tekno Toyz are legendary. Been dreaming about having a Mazworx DE block for ages
I dont have that much experience so keep at mind that my own build is more an "amateur" build rather than an ultimate build, but thing i learned on SR20 since 10 years:
1-Oil pump => Go for either an GTI-R or SR16VE oil pump. Both have wider internals, resulting in more flow (and more pressure for the later). A minor adaptation is needed though, like a new collard for the crank (with is now diven by 2 wolfkey rather than 1), a 5mm shorten crank pulley and a relocation TDC indicator. It's rumored that SR20VE oil pump cover are a bit stronger and have the same are SR16VE internals.
2-Conrod = you can get some brands who use GTI-R bearings, switching from 17mm wide to 19mm wide.
3-Mains bearings = use Nismo or Tomei for the oil gallery on both sides. IDK if ACL do the same.
4-I'm not a fan off dual guide on the rocker arm, for what i understand you need to shim your rocker arm properlly if you dont wana throw them. Use the special tool (or make one) which is placed on the lifter location and mesure carfully with a comparator the heigt difference between your 2 valves. If done correctly (+/-0.025mm between them) you done with rocker arm problems, except if your using an agressive rev limiter or anti lag (the exhaust valves can lift from those).
5-Never use a rocker arm stopper 😠
6-For a non track only car, i recomand 4032 alloy pistons instead of 2618. There are less thermal expantion on 4032 so way less piston slack than 2618, and there are stong enough for more than enouth hp to daily drive. (4032 piston example : HKS, Mahle but there is no hole for oil squiter on this one)
7-Oil pan, obviously larger capacity + baffle but i recommand stainless rather than aluminium. The oil drain tend to wear the threads really quick on aluminium, but you can use an Helicoil to prevent that. I use Tomei japan N1 pan, + 0.8 liter and quite nice looking too.
8-Valve guide, dont cheap on that. They wears down quickly because of the rocker arm design, aftermarket ones are suposly a bit stonger, but the main thing is check the valve on the guide, 0.3mm is the max at max lift.
9-Coil : use a good aftermarket one, R35/370Z or VAG R8 are greats, spitfire etc... are garbage.
And last thing, the OEM SR20 is 8.5:1 CR, uping this to above 9:1 until just under 10:1 mean that you can still use gas pump 93, but your engine will be nicer at low rpm and spool your turbo faster.
More than 10:1 E85 is needed. 😊
Did you listen in the video on how we keep the rocker level with dual guide shims? 4032 is about superfluous now days due to the much better piston designs than now run about the same piston to wall clearance with 2816. We rarely run 4032 anymore.
@@motoiq dont worry i didnt say you told a bad or a good thing in the video, i just tel what in learn by myself 👍
By better piston design you mean they overcome the downside of large expansion alloys with some new tricks ? I know that part of the coating on the piston skirt is partially use to reduce the slap for exemple.
But in the end the "ultimate sr20" is for a track use focused build, so 2816 downside are not a thing anymore.
But for the valve grind to adjust the rockers its a clever Idea, it's get rid of the whole shim stuff. But the guided shim actually exist in different heigth, but it's probalbly for solid lifters stuff (tomei make them).
@@LMSCa18det As a GTiR owner. Can't beat solid lifers (or quad throttle bodies. But that's another story.)
On a close to 'money no-object' build. It's an odd omission given the reliability advantages. Especially if planning on a flat-shift and/or limiter bashing. Having a lifter collapse from frothy oil is a real risk at high loads/rpm/g-forces. This combined with ALS(if they plan to run that) or flat shift can bounce the valve and then you've got instability at both ends of the rocker. Solids give you you piece of mind (and the ability to run more aggressive cams ;) )
Excluding a VVL head upgrade (but they can toss shims as well, just ask Andre.) Dry-sump and solid lifters are the gold standard for track focused builds (not just SR's.) Just like the old SuperTouring cars did.
Regards
Jordan.
@@manitoublack on gtir sr you have a system on the lifter who lock the rocker the lifter ?
with sr20, it's always a mater of keeping the rockers in place, everytimes they need the cam lobe in near contact with the upper part, the 2 valves and the the lifter. If not, the rocker can move and will move.
I was thinking about retrofiting in the valve train like the VVL head, but with custom rocker with an ajustement screw like in k20. No need to have a dual lift, just a rotative rocker instead of the one on DE head, with a screw to set valve play witout any shim.
Yes they have way better skirt shapes now with thermal analysis. The slapping noise is much less reduced. At least JE, CP, Mahale, wisco etc, the better companies.
Love the passion and knowledge you bring to the table, a nice change from the everyday TH-cam mechanic!
Some of the best car knowledge on youtube, bar none! Keep it up yall 😁
Between Mike Kojima and Dave Coleman when they wrote for the Sport Compact Car magazine, you can learn anything.
Words of wisdom! Thanks for a video on the SR engine, I hope to see a video on the RB from you, especially with your knowledge. Thanks for taking the time to talk to us!😊
coming
I think the ultimate SR needs a VE head but hard to find these days.
My ultimate love is the SR, things have come a long way from 15 years ago when i used to have mine.
What an incredible wealth of knowledge.
This man is the sensei of SRs
I love MotoIQ, its like therapy!
Ordered my Crank Scraper and Windage Tray from Kevin today! Thanks for the recommendation Mike!
You're AWESOME Mike!!! 😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
That P10 😍 can only imagine what’s been done to it in that garage
love to see you guys building a 3sge blacktop
This is excellent information. Thanks so much. I recently had a failure after 10 years of use. Standing behind the engine my piston 1 front right valve relief burnt. Piston 2 front right valve relief cracked. Piston 3 ringland broke on the intake side. My 1st n 2nd piston rings were perfectly fine but the top and wavy oil ring were snapped. Piston 4 appears fine but the exhaust side valves were saturated in oil looking through the cylinderhead. I'm still tearing down the engine. Next I will remove pistons 1, 2 and 4
YES!!! I've been waiting! Thanks Awesome!
thank YOU! ❤
I like how you are super humble about it and then says so were going to build a 500hp engine now... haha! love it!
Thank you, Mike! excellent content, as usual.
Hmm seems like a nice winter project
“With these generous cheeks and strong material, I think this crank is gonna be strong as heck” sometimes you just know when it’s gonna be good 😅
It would be great to see some follow up videos for these engine videos, assembly, dyno etc.
GREAT job Mike, what about VVL head????
I 2nd this.
Greatly information about technology and application even though my Mini Cooper will never get swapped.
This guy looks like he's about to burst out laughing all the time ! He's good but ! Cheers from New Zealand
Like he’s starting to peak on a mushroom or acid trip lol
thank you for the knowledge share
A couple of SR20’s would pull a premium a week before race wars
"Guys who make those statements, usually don't" lol
Sr20😉 build it to last and you’ll enjoy it! 💯💪
I wish I was closer to CA. I'd send you a 2ZZ-GE challenge.. 😅
Are you guys planning to create a video series of the engine and car build with dyno and track testing?
yes
@@motoiqmuch appreciated 😊
I have been waiting a while for the bbl head video…. That you mention in the other SR video 😅
man I wish you guys were closer to Nc!!
All I want is a smooth responsive engine and this looks like one.
Like 500 hp here is good fuel, good tune, new bearings, soft limiter, ARP rod bolts water pump pulley underdive, oil pickup mod.
Mike you are like a SR20 bible... I just dream about one day could afford to be one of your customer 😅
Excellent!
One day, i will get you guys to build me a balls to the wall engine. I have trust issues. you guys have my trust
My ideal SR20 project would be a Nissan Pulsar/Sunny Gtir rally recce car.
I do Autocross and you certainly get things much hotter and stressed even doing that compared to anything you could ever do on the road and that's nothing compared to track or drift. Road usage is so soft on an engine 😂
What would be ur recommendation for building up a vb wrx transmission. Should I go for an sti swap or is their a better option.
STI swap, saves money in the long run. What does this have to do with Nissan SR20's?
@@motoiq I just got one and this was ur most recent video so I thought I could get a reply. The general info on the internet isn't great on these cars yet.
Almost didnt just because.
@@motoiq Thx for the help. Now I just gotta figure out how to do an sti swap.
this guy knows his shit
my job is heat treating for blades. and we heat treat and cryo
Do the LFX next
If only I kept my NX2000 from 15 years ago, back when I was a dumb and a poor
FYI...my long gp doc always said that his patients would complain how he always prescribed the most expensive meds on the market...same here they won't have to come back because they didn't work...they're better😂
Great engine. Just replace -everything- with custom parts. And then modyfi them.
Love is blind I guess :P
Thanks for sharing knowledge guys.
Do n N/A sr20de and vvl
You are telling good stuff can you make a video series about full build of sr20
we did one already., search
Show us a VG30DETT!!! Please
Do you have any videos on the SR20 DE? I have one, and it’s pretty awesome even non-turbo. Great job as always 💯
It's the same but more compression and bigger cams
@@motoiq wow that’s awesome. Thank you!
Great build, I'm from Australia and struggling to find the part number for the lifters. A little help would be great
13234-53j01
Great video! But whatspsrk plugs would you recommend for this build?
PFR7G-11
Project do it all S13 ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Mike, when are you going to get Dave Coleman on here for an episode on one of his weird projects?
We should get the Miatabusa, don't think anyone would care about the lemons car.
@motoiq Mike,aside from the huge following that Lemons has the Caterham, Locost, and Lotus 7 crowd all love bike engined cars.
They've converted me. My next project is going to be a Locost chassis with a bike engine. Those things are awesome.
I don't think it's huge, I don't know anyone who cares about that stuff except the people doing it. Those articles didn't do to well on MotoIQ.com except the Miatabusa. I could be wrong. I wish Dave would get back into normal cars.
I’m goina recommend you guys do a how to build the ultimate f22c1 plzzzz :)
We will do one eventually. In the meanwhile watch our K motor stuff, the motors are a little close.
LOVE this segment Mike!
I know this is may be sore spot for you but I gotta ask🙂 I'm an old head of the early SER days that grabbed a '02 QR25 Spec when they launched w\ 33K miles on it, do you have any plans to touch on the QR? 😁
It's a crap engine.
@@motoiq My Spec just shed a tear hearing that Mike 😪. Thanks for the response 👍
Hi Mike.
Did you wpc the entire car as well 😂 jk you are the king brain 🧠 🫡🙌🙌
People who think cryo treating and WPC are snake oil are idiots.
I spent over 20 years in aviation. A lot of aircraft parts are cryo treated. Pretty much all the rotating parts in a jet engine (fan, compressor, and turbine blades) as well as any gears are cryo treated (and sometimes laser peened).
Media impact deposition application of dry film lubricants has AMS and DoD process specifications (DOD-L-85645 Rev. A). It's been in use for at least 25 years by the military. I suspect its been around longer than that jusr under a different spec number. I've seen F-16 flight control parts manufactured in the 80s that had some kind of dry film surface coating and a slightly pebbled texture like WPC.
please make a content about cylinerhead torque plate
We talk about them a lot in our videos.
Have you guys finished up that vq37vhr build?
did you see the video?
@@motoiq not the car in action 😉
Ok Mike, but what have you done to that E39 M5?
Bolt ons
I feel dirty watching the finger go into the ports on the head
Can we get a follow along engine build, the assembly I mean.
Great video Mike
Are you ever making a 4g63 video? How to build a fast street 4g63?
yes
@@motoiq thank you very much I love your content
mike do you ever build CA18's
we don't have them in the usa too much
@@motoiq I see, if you ever get to build one treat it like an RB or worse with oil restrictors and breathing systems
What about the oil pickup tube I’ve heard they tend to break off frequently?
Yes. I’ve had one break off on my stock s13 sr20. The fix is very simple though, which is to buy the s14/s15 oil pickup. It bolts straight on and has a revised pickup shape, stronger support bracket, and more thorough brazing on the end of the tube.
@@bransonfleischman2233 the tube usually breaks off at the strainer right?
Never had an SR do this, EJs yes. We will note this and beef up the pickup, than you!
@@motoiq glad I could help
I checked and we have the improved later pump pickup. I ordered a new one and will add a few tig welds to it.
Can you please make a Evo X 4B11T . Stock to 450 whp bullet proof build video, Please
So studs warp the block, heard that on this channel first. Is this feature unique to aluminum block engine? How much distortion would iron block see? Do we need a torque plate there?
It depends on the engine, some warp more than others. It generally is less of a problem with Iron blocks. We almost always use a torque plate.
Aka the 4 cylinder RB motor
I basically got that if you WPC treat everything you'll be OK 👍 😅
Where is the z32??? we need some videos on that build!
We need the video on the vvl head
coming
Would like to see a Ga15de build
That will never happen.
Do a video on ca18det
They are rare in our country and we have never had someone want us to build one.
I wanna build this engine so badd but im broke
❤️🔥
He's not building drag cars that need a fresh motor every race 😅
Let's be honest, the ultimate Sr would have a vvl head 👌
That is coming
Are there any papers You would recommend reading about the cryogenic metal treatment.
Google
Unfortunately the best ones sit behind Engineering Journal pay walls. If you're a university student or know someone who is, you could use their student credentials to gain access through their university's subscriptions. text books also exist
Otherwise it's $5-50 per paper.
Suffice to say, having read a few. they're very dry and can take some 'reading.' If you don't already have a good understanding of material science. You may not get much from the academic publications as they assume a high level of prior knowledge. I know that's not much help saying: "in order to learn about Z, you need to know Y. And in order to understand Y you need an understanding of X which you'll get from degree in materials science..."
You can find good white papers on cryo for free on google.
Excellent can we do a KA24DE that can safely push 400+hp as a daily.
we did a video on that
@@motoiq Oh okay I watched it but was under the impression it was a build for a something less that 400hp. I will turbo the KA so this top and bottom end should be good for a soild 420hp build?
I've always wondered. How can you "tune" a car's computer for mods. Without the O2 sensors and emission equipment, negating any effects?
Jim Wolf Technology has been turning stock Nissan ECU's for years.
From where can one purchase the roller rocker lifter
Nissan
Do you have a part number for it
13234-53j01
Put that in a Nissan juke
What would the price be for parts if you have a stock engine? Ball park.
google is your friend
Don't think enough drivers understand the load braking in gear does to a engine especially rod bolts. Deceleration is the same load as acceleration. Losing your engine is automatic last place.
What do you say to the people who claim intakes with short runners like the Greddy lose a lot of low end torque and it's better to stick with the stock intake?
The dyno doesn't show that.
they're accurate. but solve the issue with more displacement ;)
We haven't seen power fall off at low rpm with our builds, even at 2 liters.
❤❤❤❤B
Considering a Mazworx basic sr20 rebuild is 10 grand I can only imagine how much this engine costs... You really have to want that sr20 to keep it over something more modern and cheaper.
Modern engines are not cheaper to build. Our K motors cost more than this one.
Dog Car tricks when? Lol
doggone
@@motoiqdon’t remind me, I still beat myself up to this day for not taking the offer of buying it off Kojima-sama
I or H beam? Reply which and why?
did you watch the video?
Every time I see an SR20, I just get the feeling that Nissan didn't design and manufacture it to particularly high standards.
Well it's a 30 year old design. That being said the only late model 4 cylinder that is significantly better is a Honda K.
@@motoiq What are your thoughts on the ecotec engines? Some of them seem to have done really well in drag racing.
I don't have any experience with them, I think they are good.
all I hear is $$$ lol one day