*Shop our website www.emfcaraudio... *Support the channel on Patreon / emfaudio *Follow us on Instagram / emfaudio *Follow us on Facebook / emfaudiolabs
Videos like this I usually watch at least twice because they're so long and full detail. I paused at 15:17 and looked up and had to LOL. Great videos guys! We appreciate the gaggle of information.
Great vid. I can back this up that going from one 6" to 8" port for spl is a gain of about .5db with an high motor force sub. Give it our test was like 10 years ago so nice to see not much has changed.
Great video, real live testing, valuable info, always knew that port size are not only calculated by box dimensions but also by sub parameters and power to the sub.
Perfect timing for this. I'm designing a simple ported box for two Savard 8" subs. Port choices are standard round tube, vs long rectangular port with obviously shorter length requirement for same port volume.
The longer port was right up against the back of the car. That will definitely affect the tuning of the port. Next time I would take the subs and place them on a workbench.
How might I use these results if were using 4 ports? I have 4 3" ports which I'm seriously considering switching to 4 6" ports because I'm undersized on port area for my single Skar DNR 5K 15" which requires like twice the port area than what I have if I remember correctly.
Port area is port area, kinda. Obviously if you're going to a larger port area from a smaller you'll have a similar result to this. Way too small of port area to way bigger will likely yield a bigger difference. But, single port vs multiple ports can also yield differences.
Someone please clarify this. When you say 5000 watts or 10000 watts is that the multiplication product of voltage and current (instantaneous values)? In that case what are the typical voltage and current values in the speaker coil? For example like 50 volts and 100 amperes to make 5KW?
Great vid, appreciate all the efforts... for science! Port size will change the Q as well. 14853 will pull 1,061 amps from vehicle battery, that's not including losses in wires and amp; 100% efficiency. Holy Connolly, will need Tesla battery system.
I've got 8 banks of XS Power caps emfcaraudio.com/collections/super-capacitors-1/products/xs-power-sb500-supercell-bank and voltage drop isn't bad, around 1 volt without the car running I think it is.
I was hoping to see some undersized ports. Some people claim that port compression can limit your output, but I haven't seen any real world tests. Something you could look into?
Port compression absolutely limits your output. To demonstrate I'd have to build something specifically for that. Smaller port area needs less length, so I couldn't put a 4" port in this enclosure because it wouldn't be long enough to do anything, literally, tuning couldn't be achieved.
@@EMFAudio what would you recommend for sub and port placement? My sub sits, on top of the box and port is on the side, obviously there is a few positions I found the having the port facing into the cabin was loudest, sun is a blaupunkt 18" but with a custom voice coil
I have a question.... Why hasn't anyone used a linear actuator adjustable port that would extend/retract based on tuning and/or spl on the fly... so it would continually be adjusting the port length to maximize performance???
I'd have to see if I've taken the specs off that one, or have it handy. They're built per purpose so the specs vary. You can't look solely at the BL number. As impedance changes, BL will change, but that doesn't mean it's weaker or stronger. For that reason you use motor force factor which is (BL^2/Re). That levels the field for strength taking into account impedance.
It's possible but I don't believe that is the case here because the playing frequency was the same in most cases. On the flip side to that, moving the enclosure would change more things than just getting the port position the same. There is no case where everything could be matched 100% dimensionally speaking.
My only concern is the difference between the 6" and 8" ports is 3.14" (ironically). Ideally I would have liked to have seen a 3" or 4" compared to the 6" or 8" at half the value. But! Thank you for you videos. Great as always. PS I built a tline for the defective Rockville k9 and it's shutting down 4*12's like nothing...
First honda I was ever in was a Yellow CRX. Dude had 2 15" IDQ Image Dynamics slot ported on a. Chrome Zapco long as the interior was wide. Pretty wild for the 90s
Ive always wanted a true Y49 crx just to see if they're really cursed. I had a red 90' si with 2 JL W1v24s in a sealed box with a JL 500.1 amp and I've never heard a cleaner system to this day. I ended up selling the car with the system and regret it every day. Pretty sure the guy bought it just for the subs lol
Hi thanks for sharing. Question I have a 15" audio pulse revo subwoofer. I think the aero port should be a 6inch. I have 2 ....4inch precision ports and would like to use them but afraid for port noise. Do I use the dual 4inch or single 6inch. Subwoofer if 1500w. Thanks again
I love any and all info you can give about ports I understand the port is based off the box size and port size but what happens when you add subs as in multiple subs per box does that mean the size of the port should change I mean most people run at least 2 subs and sub specs are usually for a single sub
If you're adding subs you're also adding volume so you should be adding port area. If you're adding subs and not adding volume you're probably not going to have a good result unless the box was way too big to start with.
Your port area when building just a ported box as a rule of thumb should be around 1/4 of the total cone area. It depends on your subs, but thats a generalized size. Any smaller and youll end up choking your output, reducing efficiency, and introducing port noise. Any larger, and youll end up possibly over extending your subs by not creating the back preasure it needs, and muddying your sound. The only time where you would break away from that generalized size is when youre doing a different style box (bandpass, t-line).
@@ngaudio9143 That works for conventional subs, but high Xmax like the Ermagerd v2 needs more and high motor force like the YOLO also tend to benefit from more. The higher you tune the more port area you need as well, for any sub.
Cheers, lots of useful information. I'd say the reason why the ermagerd peaked at 60 is because the less efficient the sub the more the port impacts the output, but also if it were in an ideal volume box it would be much more efficient and should keep up. Maybe another video could be ported v 4th order by sealing off the front of the driver with another octagon.
The efficiency doesn't effect the peak frequency, there are other factors. Also remember with the 6" port it peaked 63 and 8" port it peaked 60. I do think it may have changed as a result of how large the motor is and it's relationship to the port location. The larger area is more opened to the motor directly, which takes up a ton of width in that enclosure.
@@ThomasShelby-uq8cz basically the more poor area you use the more you get a boost around tuning but the less bandwidth you'll have and for SQ a little less poor area just to make sure you flare
I've got a 42"x22"x24" box in my SUV with two Skar SDR 18s in it, and my port area is very small, just a 2" wide, 5" deep, 22" tall port along the back wall facing the back of my SUV. I've triple checked the software and my tuning is good at 32, and I don't hear port noise. But people say I'd get better performance if I made the port area bigger. What do you think? If it would help, how much would it help?
SUGGESTION 4 A VIDEO: How to add a new baffle onto an existing box without dismantling anything.. WHY?: For those.. ..who have stripped all of their subs screw holes, ..who need more box flexing support, ..needing deeper baffles for longer sub mounting screws, ..switching from square subs to round subs or vice versa, ..wanting to change the appearance of the front of their box/enclosure, ..and so on. Personally I NEED to do this because T-Nuts chewed up my MDF and so I'd like to add either a 1" wood baffle or a 1/2" black piece of PVC/ABS and install Threaded Inserts into the new baffle while sandwhiching the threaded inserts in between the old and new baffles. If interested, you could also teach us how to effectively attach the new baffle to the old baffle while painting or wrapping it to match your vehicle's interior or something interesting/helpful like that.
I like most, just make another baffle and put it on top of the other. In some cases you have to cut out the old one which I do with a router. I always just bond them with wood glue and screw them down.
I'm curious if the 8" port was hampered at all being that close to the rear wall. I've always worked under the rule of "the mouth of a port must be at least its width away from any surface".
If you google search "Salvatti et. al." top link should be to PDF of white papers with extensive research and testing into the topic of ports. Lots of good info in it, but the big takeaway is that for practical purposes there is no such thing as "too much" port area. That said, depending on the box and where all the sound sources set in your vehicle you may very well get poor results out of a port that is very big but is crowded too close to something or because it's so big something else is effected negatively. At the end of the day, if you're playing music if it's big enough to avoid turbulence and has enough volume so it won't unload you're fine, and if you're chasing numbers you'll have to test absolutely everything and the meter will tell you what you need to know.
Your statement is a bit contradictory. You say there is no such thing as too much port area, then say "if" this and that. You CAN have too much port area, where the port becomes ineffective as a port and it's just a "leak". It's the point where the box is no longer acting as a box. It's like holding it in your hand hand and opening the garage door and saying it's a ported box.
@@EMFAudio Read the Salvatti white papers. I'm sure you've seen walls with 3x as much port area as cone area that perform well built by guys who have done extensive testing. The "for practical purposes" caveat being that obviously you can't put a 15" diameter round port on the box in your video because it won't fit on any side of the box and probably wont' fit in a Rex and honestly I was surprised the 8" one even worked as well as it did for you considering how it was crowded into the back wall of the vehcle (I've had that both gain big and also fail). The point being, if you can fit more port area while maintaining the fundamentals of proper port design/placement (being far enough away from everything else or not being an unusual shape like 1" by 1000" for example) it will gain efficiency up to the point where we just can't fit more port on the box. And in fact the garage door will act as a port now whether it happens to tune anywhere useful depends on the volume of the room, area of the door, and depth of the column of air that will resonate, but it's the same principal as a Tahoe with a 1 cube box in the back gaining when you open a door or window. Also we will hit diminishing returns at some point but for anything we can fit in a car you're going to gain efficiency if you can add more port area all other things being equal.
I noticed your Port is facing towards the trunk which is normal as far as i know, in your experience does it matter if it's facing forward, back, side or even up?
The port and sub placement in the box as well as where they aim can make a huge difference. I mentioned those things in another video about SPL tips I believe.
They can be made using pipe, a mold, and heat, but I didn't make them. The 8" is Big Ass Ports and the 6" is Precision Port with a different middle section. That box is ~1.6 cu. ft after displacements, depending on the sub.
@@EMFAudio thanks for all the information sain hello here from Puerto Rico one of my friend from P.R recently went to the shop and bought two of your EMF 15 neo. Over there in south Carolina.
so kinda off topic, but if the emagerd was put in a more efficient box, and consequently had a higher rise say, 3 ohms with less power would it in theroy be louder, or is there a point where efficiency becomes to "good" or rises too high to see a higher SPL number?
Efficiency is always louder power for power but what you're saying is what the YOLO did, really. It went up to 8 ohms and I ran out of power. Had I been able to make more power it would have been louder. It's possible a little less efficiency would have gained more from power. Generally speaking in the SPL world people just wire subs lower in that case.
I had a 6" port tuned to 32 with 2 18s box volume was over 12ft3, it sounded great, but when I used 3 18s and had a rectangular port I believe it was 8"/3"/2" that didn't sound to good, now I have 2 10s in a band pass 1:2 , ported was 2.3 ft3 with 2 3"w/8"L ports and switched it to 1 port 3"w/4"L both around 36hz and they both sounded like crap, I'm going to go prefab until I make a regular ported box, thing I learned from this is I can't go to small on the ports with 3+k watts, I changed from 3k to 5k it made it worse
Lately I’ve been seeing these guys running a single 12”or 15” with 8”-10” port and some even bigger and claiming they are tuned to 32 HZ, and I’m thinking there is no way they could be tuned to that frequency with a box that looks to be around 2-3 cubes and a 10” diameter port.
A common mistake I see people making are confusing port displacement with port area when calculating. They just manipulate the area to have a workable length and end up with a very wrong tuning.
i have a versa tune port so port so the tuning can be changed 8in areo port tuned at 30 hz, i have to know would a 6.5 cubic ft box preform a whole lot different than a 6.8 cubic ft box? recommended is 7 cubic ft but cannot fit a box that big in the trunk
There may be some difference but I suspect not much. I'm assuming it's a musical build so to me the effort probably wouldn't be worth the reward unless the box just isn't right to start with.
@@EMFAudio awesome, it is a daily driver build so it will be mostly a musical build, but that is why I chose a tunable port, the box will be 6.72 cubic feet after all displacements of subs and ports, that's as close to the recommended volume i could get considering trunk size, I may burp it at shows for fun to see what it will do but is not designed for that.
I have very well understood what you are comparing... but the results ... am lost, am just seeing figures. Was expecting a conclusion which port had a deeper or punchier bass for which power inputs ...
This video was awesome, but 1 major thing seemed off. Box was tuned too high, right? If tuning was around the musical (eg. 33) I reckon there would have been dramatic differences in the output, because what we want to see are the ports bottlenecking it? *Edit: I got my answer after noting down every reading in the video. There is a gain across the entire spectrum. Low Baller gained the least, not worth having the huge port, almost certainly because it was close to the optimal box size for it already. Thank you.*
The end of the video summarized, the volume wasn't ideal for any of them. The Ermagerd kept gaining the more power was applied where the others gained the same nearly across the board.
I personally have seen larger gains than displayed in this video, there are a lot of factors happening in different applications, but 6 dB is definitely not just from a bigger port unless we're talking extreme changes.
Its nice to learn new things. may also explain when i cut my box for 3 12s and ported it for 2.lol ended badly. my setups not the way i like running 2 shitty sony 12s which were red just pained the black and a nvx vcw. when running all 3 subs i seem to get phasing issues and gets annoying im trying to get a ported box for my nvx vcw 15 that way I don't have any problems like this.
If you add port area and leave the same length, you're changing tuning. If you're adding port displacement you're also reducing box volume, which changes tuning.
Were the ports tuned to the same freq? When changing area you must consider the volume, more volume = more air to move. It's not as simple as just saying more area. It's more accurate to watch the area:volume ratio. This is knowledge from the 70's :) Also, you can model vent mach and get an idea on unloading.
I thought about doing that but in this case there are issues with the weight of the sub making the box tip over. Your question does spur an idea for another video though so I may do that in the semi-near future.
@@EMFAudio sounds good i tested this with a 6.347cuft box mathematically tuned to 34hz using 4x 6in round pvc ports.. with a single fi sp4+ 18 i found 3db at 36.8hz normal install and 33.1hz inverted still thinking about it also inverted was 0.2db higher on avg over 2mins at 1kw fixed rms used noise pink to test clipped everything below 20hz and above 120hz so really just pink bass. Measured response with my minidsp mic at 5ft
We did a box for 4 15 inch subs with 300 squarte inches of port (equivalent to 6 8 inch ports) and we did 153.7db at 41hz in a stock ford explorer, kinda overkill, but it worked.
But did you try different port areas? I personally have tried different port areas and seen more gain than in this video before, but it was in a more optimal volume for the subs being used. I think this does show that you don't necessarily need all the port area for some applications to get an inaudible difference in result.
We didn't tryed different ports, but we will reduce the area of the existing port to see what happens. Here is a video of the same box in obs tahoe th-cam.com/video/R6zlLR8L7SA/w-d-xo.html
I'm in Greer close to you I'd like to pick up 2 lowballer 15's for a Scion Tc possible wall what's the best way of going about acquiring the subs? Possibly a enclosure, or some advice for one? I would be able to pick the subs up if that's cool with you.
@@EMFAudio It's going to be a week or two before I'll be needing them maybe three. What would it cost to re-cone a 18in Kove armageddon and do you make the re-cone kits? I heard PSI makes a kit that fits the 18in armageddon subs, but definitely getting the lowballers I heard 2 15in in a civic that was ridiculous! Love your videos btw,good stuff! I'm currently learning amplifier repair and have successfully repaired 10-15 approximately and trying to get some Brazilian amps to diagnose and repair if you know anyone who has one in th he boneyard that's smoked I'll pay for broken amplifiers. Just lmk when you get those in and I'll come pick em up thanks!
That was a amazing video those boxes are so rich i have a question do u still make the EMF AUDIO ERMAGERD SORRY IF INCORRECT SPELLING THATS A COOL ASS NAME AND THAT IS 1 OF THE BADDEST SUBWOOFER'S IV EVER SEEN WELL ABOUT THE QUESTION DO U STILL MAKE THOSE PLEASE SAY U DO (🦍✌🏽💪🏽🔈✌🏽💪🏽🔉✌🏽💪🏽🔊🦍)
Ive watched this a couple times now. This time I'm checking to see if you describe how you measure port length. I always though you measure in the middle/center of the port. Is this correct? I'm currently tuning a box and have likely just confused myself overthinking it to death. He'll who knows if you even habe the time to respond to a question on a video posted so long ago. None the less thankyou EMF
I have just ran into this issue I went from. Building a suburban to a coupe never had issues with room or port length what would u say would be best bang for the buck I have about three cubes in total and about ten inches of height overall BTW wonderful video
from the research ive done, i came to the conclusion that MORE port area is required when overpowering a sub, especially one that has more xmax. Also, i was told by some professional builders, that the recommended port area rule of 12 to 16 does not always work out and also the recommended port area numbers on manufacturing websites are often on the low side. Im not saying this is true but this is what ive been told. What i WANT to see, and i hope one day you can make this. Is to choose a 12 inch sub that is rated for 1000rms or 1500rms but is underrated and then run the test using that same sub like this : put the 12 inch sub in the manufacturers spec box and run it on their rms rating. then test again, but this time using more power. Then see if there was any loss or gain of DBs. Then use same sub and overpower it (i.e use 2000rms to a 1500rms rated sub) and use MORE port area this time so instead of 32 sq inches of port for a slot, use 50. then measure DBs. I would love to see the results of this test. Cuz right now i have no idea if what ive been TOLD is true or if i should just use the manufacturers recommended box designs regardless if im overpowering or not. NOTE: the dude that has helped me and told me about using more port area esp when using more power to avoid port compression which will lose you output is a guy named triticum. here is his PORT AREA CALCULATOR. tell me what you think. you just enter the net airspace, tuning frequency and rms power you will be giving it and it will tell you the min and max recommended port area for aero and slots. I would LOVE to verify this and see if its true. here is the link to his calculator: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1mwBK02mF-8BF3mxqqB8WG0H0GUbTmgQfpJODlo_0moQ/edit#gid=1632976665
Appropriate port area depends on the tuning, volume, usable bandwidth, and motor force. A bigger port area will narrow your usable bandwidth as you can't stray too far above or below tuning without reaching mechanical limits. For SPL applications that doesn't matter, for musical applications it does. While you might gain 0.5 dB at a peak you may lose the ability to keep a linear response and you may not be able to play below tuning at all where a smaller port area you could play 8-10 hz below tuning and be fine. Motor force is a factor because of the Qes. A higher Qes will control movement on it's own without relying on the enclosure as much. A bigger port reduces mechanical control from the enclosure.
@@EMFAudio this is exactly the issue im running into now using a much larger than manufacturer recommended port area. My bandwidth is mad small. At first i thought maybe thats just how the sub is..but now im almost certain its due to the port being too big. I was told my velocity was too high at 2000rms so i should make as big a port as possible to keep it down but now my bandwidth has suffered. I guess i gotta make another box but this time closer to manu specs. I rather have a wider bandwidth than a measly .5db gain. And this is all for musical purposes. So it matters.
@@akuma4u You might enjoy the video I did about how box simulations are wrong. Port velocity is only too high (for musical) if you can hear the turbulence.
@@EMFAudio ill def take a look. I never hear port noise. But the triticum user who made that calculator says its the compression not noise thats the issue. The compression is what happens before the noise so your output will be reduced regardless if u hear port noise or not. Again thats what he says not me im still learning lol Once the spring hits here in toronto, im going to build a new box and test it out against this current high port area box and see whats up. As of right now, there are many songs with bass notes completely missing cuz my box cant play them. Its annoying.
@@akuma4u Yes, compression does happen before being audible, but that just means the port becomes less efficient. The concept is right for maximizing SPL, it's bad for music.
@@Jervin-Music yeah I'm in the same boat and my luck is shitty too. So it's highly unlikely I'd ever win 1 or the money to get 1 lol. Although I suppose if we were to put aside a little money here and there... maybeee eventually we could raise enough money. Maybe...
I had one and I paid only $1250 for it! Now he wants over $3,000 for one. They aren't all that. I switched to Fi and they are monsters(Sp4 plus series) I promised you, that you can't go wrong!
@@johnathanhunter7899 right on I'm sure there are a few subs out there that can bang just as impressively. I gotta say though, none have ever caught my attention like the ermergerd v2 or even the v1. I mean overall of course but I'm impressed by the look alone too.
They're priced over $3,000 so people will stop asking about them. We don't have any to sell and I got tired of telling people we don't have an ETA several times a day.
SQL isn't a thing, it's a term people use to describe a sub that isn't exceptional in a single usage. IE, a versatile balanced sub. /rant The Lowballer and Banhammer line fit the bill for that application.
The tricky part there is when you don't have impedance rise, you aren't efficient. Efficiency is louder than power, the more efficient you are the higher the impedance rise you have. You should be more worried about the end result than the clamped power.
Do u still have the Ermergerd the 1s with the ferrite Magnets i love those and im not 💯percent sure but i saw the price on them i think it was the 12" or maybe a 15" for $999 but i could be wrong i kno this video is a little old but if someone anyone can get back at me to let me kno i would really appreciate it and thank u i love all ur videos specially when u SCHOOL people that really think they kno what they are talking about and i kno i don't only speak for myself but i really learn alot from watching ur videos [☣✌💪🔈✌💪🔉✌💪🔊☣]
So I'm not soaking much of this in ... I'm not gonna say I'm not into spl cus that would be a lie. I am into loud accurate music...I like to listen to my music and have it dynamically effect me. That said, in my case how could I use this to allow a flat curve yet gain the efficiency of the port?
Some of the same things apply here. If you want less of a peak, use a smaller port. When you make it too small it will be noisy an inefficient so there are judgement calls to be made there. Example, the lower the tune the lower the port area needed anyway, so maybe you'd be going between a 3" and 4" port where a 3" port would give you a flatter response but still have efficiency where doing a 2" port would lose efficiency.
Hi I really like that you and doing. ? I have a 2000w amp with a 1500 speaker. It's mid to cheep dot that alone with a pioneer head unit a 1500w amp 10" sub. 600w 6x9 in back 450w 6.5 with a 300 w tested on the dash. In a Dakota it sounds killer but No bass all you hear is the pioneers the sub is not loud w it is seeled I'm thinking about putting 2 2" x 6" in the boxpvc
@@EMFAudio close I was going crazy cuz I had a 94 hatch and that back seat looked like it and the side mirror and the cowl. Nice u saved one from being improperly upgraded!
Wonder if you or anyone else with knowledge can help me. Its relating to ports and and an amp I just got. I have usually run a sealed box with my 12". My amp gave up after 10 years so got a pioneer Gm D9701 but have now found it has no subsonic filter. I have also just built a 2.5 cft ported box and gave away my sealed box but have now been told that this amp will damage my sub in a ported box due to lack of SSF. However some have said I should be fine. I listen to bass heavy music if that makes a dif. Thanks
Having a subsonic filter only matters if what you're playing is too much below tuning. Example, tuned to 32 hz and never play below 32 hz, the subsonic filter would do nothing. If you were tuned to 45 hz and played 30 hz, that's where a problem could occur at higher volume levels.
@@EMFAudio ok I get it. So my box is tuned to 37/38 I think. Its a 2.5 cft box but with sub dis its 2.3cft. The port recommended was a 4" at 190mm. That should tune to 37hz. The mistake I made was I got a horn style port. The bottle neck is 90mm wide with ends flaring to 125mm and a total length of 200mm so its hard to figure if its tuned higher or lower than 37hz. Should i pos look into getting some kind of inline ssf at either 20 or 30hz? Thanks
@@Pkdimmock You can use a port calculator to figure out how that turns out but that sounds like it's definitely too small of port area. That's a pretty high tune for music too.
Sean, you forgot to mention about vehicle peak frequency and how that comes into play. You kept running 60 and 63. Y not run or try 58 hz ? I feel you need a part 2 about vehicle frequency, having same setup in two different vehicles with same box/amp/subs they will act differently and sound different and perform different
I mentioned in the video I was playing the peak frequency, I think what you're describing would be best suited as the same sub in the same box in different vehicles, and I can do that.
I've learned a very valuable lesson from this video. We are not comparing subs, we're comparing a 6" port and an 8" port.
Dang the amount of unrelated comment sections I've seen you in doc is getting ridiculous
So what’s better?
this is exactly the type of content i want to see... how things perform when different parameters get altered.
Ashmeed Mohammed i second this
Hannibal_Toast
I plead the 3rd.
This is so damn informative and interesting, no BS, no crap. Just quality content.
Lmao @ all the "we're not comparing subs, watch the whole video." Related remarks. Shit was epic
>spends half the video fielding stupid questions
>fields the same questions in comments
i love this channel
Be sure to watch the Friday video LOL
I love what you do man, thanks for helpin everybody get louder
Low baller sub taking almost 10k burps back to back? Take my money, lol.
www.emfcaraudio.com go get some while they last.
I was amazed, that’s brutal 😂🤘🏻
Right
Just nonstop information to get our shit together for our rides lol... Love it brother! KEEP ON KEEPING ON
Videos like this I usually watch at least twice because they're so long and full detail. I paused at 15:17 and looked up and had to LOL. Great videos guys! We appreciate the gaggle of information.
Funny thing, after this testing was done I played with it some more and got just shy of 15,500 watts out of it. I posted it on Instagram and Facebook.
@@EMFAudio Wow! It's amazing how much difference tuning makes.
@@MadDragon75 actually, all I did was open a door
@@EMFAudio Oh. I'm playing around like that too.
Changing the port and, or sub positions can make a + or - difference.
5k at 8ohms is super impressive
Pry more than my other half will let me spend but what's price of 12k or maybe next smallest size down as well. I need power like that with rise
I watched this video 3 times , you are doing all the testing I wish I had time and equipment to do 👍🏻
I can't even fully comprehend what I'm watching, but the little I do understand is very impressive. Awesome stuff.
Great vid. I can back this up that going from one 6" to 8" port for spl is a gain of about .5db with an high motor force sub. Give it our test was like 10 years ago so nice to see not much has changed.
Nice to see someone taking the time to show just how much testing we do as competitors. 90 % of the audio world has no idea how hard we work.
Hands down the best sub comparison video on TH-cam… 🤣
Great video, real live testing, valuable info, always knew that port size are not only calculated by box dimensions but also by sub parameters and power to the sub.
Perfect timing for this. I'm designing a simple ported box for two Savard 8" subs. Port choices are standard round tube, vs long rectangular port with obviously shorter length requirement for same port volume.
For a given port area and volume the length should be the same for the same tuning, regardless of port shape.
Holy fuck 5k then 10k burp on the 2.5" coil low baller sub!? 🤯 siiiiick
Wonder why he's comparing those subs to each other?
Before you roast me lol I'm just kidding. Great video. Just what I needed.
The longer port was right up against the back of the car. That will definitely affect the tuning of the port. Next time I would take the subs and place them on a workbench.
How might I use these results if were using 4 ports? I have 4 3" ports which I'm seriously considering switching to 4 6" ports because I'm undersized on port area for my single Skar DNR 5K 15" which requires like twice the port area than what I have if I remember correctly.
Port area is port area, kinda. Obviously if you're going to a larger port area from a smaller you'll have a similar result to this. Way too small of port area to way bigger will likely yield a bigger difference. But, single port vs multiple ports can also yield differences.
Someone please clarify this. When you say 5000 watts or 10000 watts is that the multiplication product of voltage and current (instantaneous values)? In that case what are the typical voltage and current values in the speaker coil? For example like 50 volts and 100 amperes to make 5KW?
its nice to see the total Q factor an how it changes the qts of the system an effects on fs, good video
Explain yourself
Please explain
Why does this dude remind me of an older Jacob Viral lol?
Great vid, appreciate all the efforts... for science! Port size will change the Q as well. 14853 will pull 1,061 amps from vehicle battery, that's not including losses in wires and amp; 100% efficiency. Holy Connolly, will need Tesla battery system.
I've got 8 banks of XS Power caps emfcaraudio.com/collections/super-capacitors-1/products/xs-power-sb500-supercell-bank and voltage drop isn't bad, around 1 volt without the car running I think it is.
Great information
Seriously thank you good stuff to know that nobody else tests.
You can't stop me from comparing the subs in my mind. Lol
I like the way your mind works
I was hoping to see some undersized ports. Some people claim that port compression can limit your output, but I haven't seen any real world tests. Something you could look into?
Port compression absolutely limits your output. To demonstrate I'd have to build something specifically for that. Smaller port area needs less length, so I couldn't put a 4" port in this enclosure because it wouldn't be long enough to do anything, literally, tuning couldn't be achieved.
Does the the longer port have an effect because of loading off the back wall?
Depending how close it is, it can. I don't believe it does in this case.
Valuable content! Been wondering about real life results on this very topic! Thanks for the info!
Does it matter where the port is on a box? For example the sub on the top and the port facing into the rear or front of the car
Yes, it absolutely matters. Some cases more than others, but it does matter.
@@EMFAudio what would you recommend for sub and port placement? My sub sits, on top of the box and port is on the side, obviously there is a few positions I found the having the port facing into the cabin was loudest, sun is a blaupunkt 18" but with a custom voice coil
@@Carlst17 depends on the vehicle but it sounds like you've figured it out
sir gud pm..i have firland 2 12"s..1000rms each..how big is on a single port? is it 8" aeroport ir 6"? thanks
I have a question.... Why hasn't anyone used a linear actuator adjustable port that would extend/retract based on tuning and/or spl on the fly... so it would continually be adjusting the port length to maximize performance???
what are the t/s specs of the yolo used here? I'm wondering what you consider high bl? over 20?
I'd have to see if I've taken the specs off that one, or have it handy. They're built per purpose so the specs vary. You can't look solely at the BL number. As impedance changes, BL will change, but that doesn't mean it's weaker or stronger. For that reason you use motor force factor which is (BL^2/Re). That levels the field for strength taking into account impedance.
the larger port is also really close to the rear wouldnt this change the tuning
It's possible but I don't believe that is the case here because the playing frequency was the same in most cases. On the flip side to that, moving the enclosure would change more things than just getting the port position the same. There is no case where everything could be matched 100% dimensionally speaking.
I'll also mention I think it's further away than you think. It's about 6-7" away I believe with the 8" port.
np just a thought thank you and i greatly appreciate the video keep them coming.
But are you comparing the 3 subs?
Another nice video. Love it. Love it love it. I learn alot from you every day. Thanks brother
My only concern is the difference between the 6" and 8" ports is 3.14" (ironically). Ideally I would have liked to have seen a 3" or 4" compared to the 6" or 8" at half the value. But! Thank you for you videos. Great as always. PS I built a tline for the defective Rockville k9 and it's shutting down 4*12's like nothing...
Comparing insufficient port area to also insufficient port area wouldn't be a good test.
Crx is one of the best cars for a bass build! They're super fun to drive as well
First honda I was ever in was a Yellow CRX. Dude had 2 15" IDQ Image Dynamics slot ported on a. Chrome Zapco long as the interior was wide. Pretty wild for the 90s
Ive always wanted a true Y49 crx just to see if they're really cursed. I had a red 90' si with 2 JL W1v24s in a sealed box with a JL 500.1 amp and I've never heard a cleaner system to this day. I ended up selling the car with the system and regret it every day. Pretty sure the guy bought it just for the subs lol
@@jordank7685 I had 2 w4D4 12s on N alpine v12 expert...very clean as well. I've always wanted a JL amp. My buddy has one powering an 8w7 in a crv
Hi thanks for sharing. Question I have a 15" audio pulse revo subwoofer. I think the aero port should be a 6inch. I have 2 ....4inch precision ports and would like to use them but afraid for port noise. Do I use the dual 4inch or single 6inch. Subwoofer if 1500w. Thanks again
I love any and all info you can give about ports I understand the port is based off the box size and port size but what happens when you add subs as in multiple subs per box does that mean the size of the port should change I mean most people run at least 2 subs and sub specs are usually for a single sub
For SPL I'd go off cone area, so 2 subs means 2 ports, and for SQL I'd go off box volume, so 1 or 2 sub's in the same box would have the same port
If you're adding subs you're also adding volume so you should be adding port area. If you're adding subs and not adding volume you're probably not going to have a good result unless the box was way too big to start with.
Your port area when building just a ported box as a rule of thumb should be around 1/4 of the total cone area. It depends on your subs, but thats a generalized size.
Any smaller and youll end up choking your output, reducing efficiency, and introducing port noise.
Any larger, and youll end up possibly over extending your subs by not creating the back preasure it needs, and muddying your sound.
The only time where you would break away from that generalized size is when youre doing a different style box (bandpass, t-line).
@@ngaudio9143 That works for conventional subs, but high Xmax like the Ermagerd v2 needs more and high motor force like the YOLO also tend to benefit from more. The higher you tune the more port area you need as well, for any sub.
@@EMFAudio
Thats why I put the 1/4 cone area is a base generalization, and that it really depends on the sub itself.
Cheers, lots of useful information. I'd say the reason why the ermagerd peaked at 60 is because the less efficient the sub the more the port impacts the output, but also if it were in an ideal volume box it would be much more efficient and should keep up. Maybe another video could be ported v 4th order by sealing off the front of the driver with another octagon.
The efficiency doesn't effect the peak frequency, there are other factors. Also remember with the 6" port it peaked 63 and 8" port it peaked 60. I do think it may have changed as a result of how large the motor is and it's relationship to the port location. The larger area is more opened to the motor directly, which takes up a ton of width in that enclosure.
god bless you for this video! ive been looking for that kind of info for years.
Love the vids man i think ur the most informative guy on here good deal! Learning off u
Great vid as usual I can't wait for next tuesday thanks for your great knowledge input and explanation 👏👏👏👏👏👏👌👌👌
When using flared aero ports what are the port area recommendations for a SQ setup vs a spl?
Following
@@ThomasShelby-uq8cz basically the more poor area you use the more you get a boost around tuning but the less bandwidth you'll have and for SQ a little less poor area just to make sure you flare
I've got a 42"x22"x24" box in my SUV with two Skar SDR 18s in it, and my port area is very small, just a 2" wide, 5" deep, 22" tall port along the back wall facing the back of my SUV. I've triple checked the software and my tuning is good at 32, and I don't hear port noise. But people say I'd get better performance if I made the port area bigger. What do you think? If it would help, how much would it help?
Triticum's improved port area calculator. Look it up
SUGGESTION 4 A VIDEO: How to add a new baffle onto an existing box without dismantling anything..
WHY?: For those..
..who have stripped all of their subs screw holes,
..who need more box flexing support,
..needing deeper baffles for longer sub mounting screws,
..switching from square subs to round subs or vice versa,
..wanting to change the appearance of the front of their box/enclosure,
..and so on.
Personally I NEED to do this because T-Nuts chewed up my MDF and so I'd like to add either a 1" wood baffle or a 1/2" black piece of PVC/ABS and install Threaded Inserts into the new baffle while sandwhiching the threaded inserts in between the old and new baffles. If interested, you could also teach us how to effectively attach the new baffle to the old baffle while painting or wrapping it to match your vehicle's interior or something interesting/helpful like that.
I like most, just make another baffle and put it on top of the other. In some cases you have to cut out the old one which I do with a router. I always just bond them with wood glue and screw them down.
@@EMFAudio ty 4 responding
I'm curious if the 8" port was hampered at all being that close to the rear wall. I've always worked under the rule of "the mouth of a port must be at least its width away from any surface".
That is a good general rule, but CRX's are another beast. Quite often the port just has to be a certain length away.
If you google search "Salvatti et. al." top link should be to PDF of white papers with extensive research and testing into the topic of ports. Lots of good info in it, but the big takeaway is that for practical purposes there is no such thing as "too much" port area. That said, depending on the box and where all the sound sources set in your vehicle you may very well get poor results out of a port that is very big but is crowded too close to something or because it's so big something else is effected negatively.
At the end of the day, if you're playing music if it's big enough to avoid turbulence and has enough volume so it won't unload you're fine, and if you're chasing numbers you'll have to test absolutely everything and the meter will tell you what you need to know.
Your statement is a bit contradictory. You say there is no such thing as too much port area, then say "if" this and that. You CAN have too much port area, where the port becomes ineffective as a port and it's just a "leak". It's the point where the box is no longer acting as a box. It's like holding it in your hand hand and opening the garage door and saying it's a ported box.
@@EMFAudio
Read the Salvatti white papers. I'm sure you've seen walls with 3x as much port area as cone area that perform well built by guys who have done extensive testing. The "for practical purposes" caveat being that obviously you can't put a 15" diameter round port on the box in your video because it won't fit on any side of the box and probably wont' fit in a Rex and honestly I was surprised the 8" one even worked as well as it did for you considering how it was crowded into the back wall of the vehcle (I've had that both gain big and also fail).
The point being, if you can fit more port area while maintaining the fundamentals of proper port design/placement (being far enough away from everything else or not being an unusual shape like 1" by 1000" for example) it will gain efficiency up to the point where we just can't fit more port on the box.
And in fact the garage door will act as a port now whether it happens to tune anywhere useful depends on the volume of the room, area of the door, and depth of the column of air that will resonate, but it's the same principal as a Tahoe with a 1 cube box in the back gaining when you open a door or window. Also we will hit diminishing returns at some point but for anything we can fit in a car you're going to gain efficiency if you can add more port area all other things being equal.
Love this stuff! Keep up the excellent work
Good stuff Sean! Very informative information.
I noticed your Port is facing towards the trunk which is normal as far as i know, in your experience does it matter if it's facing forward, back, side or even up?
The port and sub placement in the box as well as where they aim can make a huge difference. I mentioned those things in another video about SPL tips I believe.
Damm the merica 12k is next hopefully they go on sale for black friday. Wt u think of the new sundown salt 12k amp
Questions how you make those aeroport for your SPL Box and how many cubes.
They can be made using pipe, a mold, and heat, but I didn't make them. The 8" is Big Ass Ports and the 6" is Precision Port with a different middle section. That box is ~1.6 cu. ft after displacements, depending on the sub.
@@EMFAudio thanks for all the information sain hello here from Puerto Rico one of my friend from P.R recently went to the shop and bought two of your EMF 15 neo. Over there in south Carolina.
Need help with my car is a two toyota Echo 2001 how I cant get in contact with you P.M.
@@davidspl Email is best, you can send us a message from the contact for on our website www.emfcaraudio.com
so kinda off topic, but if the emagerd was put in a more efficient box, and consequently had a higher rise say, 3 ohms with less power would it in theroy be louder, or is there a point where efficiency becomes to "good" or rises too high to see a higher SPL number?
Efficiency is always louder power for power but what you're saying is what the YOLO did, really. It went up to 8 ohms and I ran out of power. Had I been able to make more power it would have been louder. It's possible a little less efficiency would have gained more from power. Generally speaking in the SPL world people just wire subs lower in that case.
@@EMFAudio ah I see, Thank you!
maybe next time show the flex of the sub difference between boxes. 😊
In my experience short ports make louder bass!!
I tried with JBL
I had a 6" port tuned to 32 with 2 18s box volume was over 12ft3, it sounded great, but when I used 3 18s and had a rectangular port I believe it was 8"/3"/2" that didn't sound to good, now I have 2 10s in a band pass 1:2 , ported was 2.3 ft3 with 2 3"w/8"L ports and switched it to 1 port 3"w/4"L both around 36hz and they both sounded like crap, I'm going to go prefab until I make a regular ported box, thing I learned from this is I can't go to small on the ports with 3+k watts, I changed from 3k to 5k it made it worse
Lately I’ve been seeing these guys running a single 12”or 15” with 8”-10” port and some even bigger and claiming they are tuned to 32 HZ, and I’m thinking there is no way they could be tuned to that frequency with a box that looks to be around 2-3 cubes and a 10” diameter port.
A common mistake I see people making are confusing port displacement with port area when calculating. They just manipulate the area to have a workable length and end up with a very wrong tuning.
i have a versa tune port so port so the tuning can be changed 8in areo port tuned at 30 hz, i have to know would a 6.5 cubic ft box preform a whole lot different than a 6.8 cubic ft box? recommended is 7 cubic ft but cannot fit a box that big in the trunk
There may be some difference but I suspect not much. I'm assuming it's a musical build so to me the effort probably wouldn't be worth the reward unless the box just isn't right to start with.
@@EMFAudio awesome, it is a daily driver build so it will be mostly a musical build, but that is why I chose a tunable port, the box will be 6.72 cubic feet after all displacements of subs and ports, that's as close to the recommended volume i could get considering trunk size, I may burp it at shows for fun to see what it will do but is not designed for that.
I have very well understood what you are comparing... but the results ... am lost, am just seeing figures. Was expecting a conclusion which port had a deeper or punchier bass for which power inputs ...
This video was awesome, but 1 major thing seemed off. Box was tuned too high, right? If tuning was around the musical (eg. 33) I reckon there would have been dramatic differences in the output, because what we want to see are the ports bottlenecking it?
*Edit: I got my answer after noting down every reading in the video. There is a gain across the entire spectrum. Low Baller gained the least, not worth having the huge port, almost certainly because it was close to the optimal box size for it already. Thank you.*
The end of the video summarized, the volume wasn't ideal for any of them. The Ermagerd kept gaining the more power was applied where the others gained the same nearly across the board.
lol some guy said on a forum it was like a 6db gain with a bigger port. That must have been a huge placebo effect they were experiencing
I personally have seen larger gains than displayed in this video, there are a lot of factors happening in different applications, but 6 dB is definitely not just from a bigger port unless we're talking extreme changes.
Its nice to learn new things. may also explain when i cut my box for 3 12s and ported it for 2.lol ended badly. my setups not the way i like running 2 shitty sony 12s which were red just pained the black and a nvx vcw. when running all 3 subs i seem to get phasing issues and gets annoying im trying to get a ported box for my nvx vcw 15 that way I don't have any problems like this.
If I use multiple ports that are the same length, can they replace one port of the same length with the same added port area?
If you add port area and leave the same length, you're changing tuning. If you're adding port displacement you're also reducing box volume, which changes tuning.
@@EMFAudio Damn, guess ill have to build the port cause no one sells 7" ports.
Were the ports tuned to the same freq? When changing area you must consider the volume, more volume = more air to move. It's not as simple as just saying more area. It's more accurate to watch the area:volume ratio. This is knowledge from the 70's :) Also, you can model vent mach and get an idea on unloading.
They were in fact tuned the same, because otherwise would be a variable that changes results.
I agree this is good data a question i have is can you try and compare normal and inverted installs the extra box volume might help
I thought about doing that but in this case there are issues with the weight of the sub making the box tip over. Your question does spur an idea for another video though so I may do that in the semi-near future.
@@EMFAudio sounds good i tested this with a 6.347cuft box mathematically tuned to 34hz using 4x 6in round pvc ports.. with a single fi sp4+ 18 i found 3db at 36.8hz normal install and 33.1hz inverted still thinking about it also inverted was 0.2db higher on avg over 2mins at 1kw fixed rms used noise pink to test clipped everything below 20hz and above 120hz so really just pink bass. Measured response with my minidsp mic at 5ft
We did a box for 4 15 inch subs with 300 squarte inches of port (equivalent to 6 8 inch ports) and we did 153.7db at 41hz in a stock ford explorer, kinda overkill, but it worked.
But did you try different port areas? I personally have tried different port areas and seen more gain than in this video before, but it was in a more optimal volume for the subs being used. I think this does show that you don't necessarily need all the port area for some applications to get an inaudible difference in result.
try 4 8” ports 💪✅
We didn't tryed different ports, but we will reduce the area of the existing port to see what happens. Here is a video of the same box in obs tahoe th-cam.com/video/R6zlLR8L7SA/w-d-xo.html
My rule of thumb is go wide as you can as long as the length will fit.
Got one of the lowballer 15" on the sale what box should you recommend for a sq box? Oops for got ported lol
3.5-4 cu ft. is what we recommend for daily usage.
Yeah very cool look.
I'm in Greer close to you I'd like to pick up 2 lowballer 15's for a Scion Tc possible wall what's the best way of going about acquiring the subs? Possibly a enclosure, or some advice for one? I would be able to pick the subs up if that's cool with you.
You could pick them up, but they aren't at the warehouse just yet. You can buy them on the website though.
@@EMFAudio It's going to be a week or two before I'll be needing them maybe three. What would it cost to re-cone a 18in Kove armageddon and do you make the re-cone kits? I heard PSI makes a kit that fits the 18in armageddon subs, but definitely getting the lowballers I heard 2 15in in a civic that was ridiculous! Love your videos btw,good stuff! I'm currently learning amplifier repair and have successfully repaired 10-15 approximately and trying to get some Brazilian amps to diagnose and repair if you know anyone who has one in th he boneyard that's smoked I'll pay for broken amplifiers. Just lmk when you get those in and I'll come pick em up thanks!
That was a amazing video those boxes are so rich i have a question do u still make the EMF AUDIO ERMAGERD SORRY IF INCORRECT SPELLING THATS A COOL ASS NAME AND THAT IS 1 OF THE BADDEST SUBWOOFER'S IV EVER SEEN WELL ABOUT THE QUESTION DO U STILL MAKE THOSE PLEASE SAY U DO (🦍✌🏽💪🏽🔈✌🏽💪🏽🔉✌🏽💪🏽🔊🦍)
Ive watched this a couple times now. This time I'm checking to see if you describe how you measure port length. I always though you measure in the middle/center of the port. Is this correct? I'm currently tuning a box and have likely just confused myself overthinking it to death. He'll who knows if you even habe the time to respond to a question on a video posted so long ago. None the less thankyou EMF
The reference to middle is in the port diameter, not the length. If it doesn't curve it doesn't matter about measuring in the middle.
@@EMFAudio its long enough to have to be an "L" I was just trying to male sure if I go to the center instead of the wall
the amount of NEO in that prototype... OMG
Where can I buy a big port?
I have just ran into this issue I went from. Building a suburban to a coupe never had issues with room or port length what would u say would be best bang for the buck I have about three cubes in total and about ten inches of height overall BTW wonderful video
10" of height meaning it would have to fire forward or backward? 10's are 10.5" OD so that sounds like you're limited to 8's, period.
from the research ive done, i came to the conclusion that MORE port area is required when overpowering a sub, especially one that has more xmax. Also, i was told by some professional builders, that the recommended port area rule of 12 to 16 does not always work out and also the recommended port area numbers on manufacturing websites are often on the low side. Im not saying this is true but this is what ive been told. What i WANT to see, and i hope one day you can make this. Is to choose a 12 inch sub that is rated for 1000rms or 1500rms but is underrated and then run the test using that same sub like this : put the 12 inch sub in the manufacturers spec box and run it on their rms rating. then test again, but this time using more power. Then see if there was any loss or gain of DBs. Then use same sub and overpower it (i.e use 2000rms to a 1500rms rated sub) and use MORE port area this time so instead of 32 sq inches of port for a slot, use 50. then measure DBs.
I would love to see the results of this test. Cuz right now i have no idea if what ive been TOLD is true or if i should just use the manufacturers recommended box designs regardless if im overpowering or not.
NOTE: the dude that has helped me and told me about using more port area esp when using more power to avoid port compression which will lose you output is a guy named triticum. here is his PORT AREA CALCULATOR. tell me what you think. you just enter the net airspace, tuning frequency and rms power you will be giving it and it will tell you the min and max recommended port area for aero and slots. I would LOVE to verify this and see if its true. here is the link to his calculator: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1mwBK02mF-8BF3mxqqB8WG0H0GUbTmgQfpJODlo_0moQ/edit#gid=1632976665
Appropriate port area depends on the tuning, volume, usable bandwidth, and motor force. A bigger port area will narrow your usable bandwidth as you can't stray too far above or below tuning without reaching mechanical limits. For SPL applications that doesn't matter, for musical applications it does. While you might gain 0.5 dB at a peak you may lose the ability to keep a linear response and you may not be able to play below tuning at all where a smaller port area you could play 8-10 hz below tuning and be fine. Motor force is a factor because of the Qes. A higher Qes will control movement on it's own without relying on the enclosure as much. A bigger port reduces mechanical control from the enclosure.
@@EMFAudio this is exactly the issue im running into now using a much larger than manufacturer recommended port area. My bandwidth is mad small. At first i thought maybe thats just how the sub is..but now im almost certain its due to the port being too big. I was told my velocity was too high at 2000rms so i should make as big a port as possible to keep it down but now my bandwidth has suffered. I guess i gotta make another box but this time closer to manu specs. I rather have a wider bandwidth than a measly .5db gain. And this is all for musical purposes. So it matters.
@@akuma4u You might enjoy the video I did about how box simulations are wrong. Port velocity is only too high (for musical) if you can hear the turbulence.
@@EMFAudio ill def take a look. I never hear port noise. But the triticum user who made that calculator says its the compression not noise thats the issue. The compression is what happens before the noise so your output will be reduced regardless if u hear port noise or not. Again thats what he says not me im still learning lol Once the spring hits here in toronto, im going to build a new box and test it out against this current high port area box and see whats up. As of right now, there are many songs with bass notes completely missing cuz my box cant play them. Its annoying.
@@akuma4u Yes, compression does happen before being audible, but that just means the port becomes less efficient. The concept is right for maximizing SPL, it's bad for music.
Great video. So with your wealth of knowledge what would be a good ratio for a daily driver that could be heard from blocks away.
That's extremely vague but also vehicle dependent. Low frequencies are what's hurt far away as well.
Ermergerd v2 15" = my dream sub lol
BaSsAholiC SAAME. I WILL NEVER HAVE THE MONEY BUT SAME
@@Jervin-Music yeah I'm in the same boat and my luck is shitty too. So it's highly unlikely I'd ever win 1 or the money to get 1 lol. Although I suppose if we were to put aside a little money here and there... maybeee eventually we could raise enough money. Maybe...
I had one and I paid only $1250 for it! Now he wants over $3,000 for one. They aren't all that. I switched to Fi and they are monsters(Sp4 plus series) I promised you, that you can't go wrong!
@@johnathanhunter7899 right on I'm sure there are a few subs out there that can bang just as impressively. I gotta say though, none have ever caught my attention like the ermergerd v2 or even the v1. I mean overall of course but I'm impressed by the look alone too.
They're priced over $3,000 so people will stop asking about them. We don't have any to sell and I got tired of telling people we don't have an ETA several times a day.
So would port size matter when it comes to a slot style port?
Area is area, shape matters though.
Great stuff 👍thanks!
What is your recommended sub for a SQL application
SQL isn't a thing, it's a term people use to describe a sub that isn't exceptional in a single usage. IE, a versatile balanced sub. /rant The Lowballer and Banhammer line fit the bill for that application.
How can we get clamping more power and stop maximum impedance rise?
The tricky part there is when you don't have impedance rise, you aren't efficient. Efficiency is louder than power, the more efficient you are the higher the impedance rise you have. You should be more worried about the end result than the clamped power.
@@EMFAudio im so glad that someone with credibility said that. If you're not rising, youre inefficient
That's a groovy little toon ya got going on with that Yolo.
Do u still have the Ermergerd the 1s with the ferrite Magnets i love those and im not 💯percent sure but i saw the price on them i think it was the 12" or maybe a 15" for $999 but i could be wrong i kno this video is a little old but if someone anyone can get back at me to let me kno i would really appreciate it and thank u i love all ur videos specially when u SCHOOL people that really think they kno what they are talking about and i kno i don't only speak for myself but i really learn alot from watching ur videos [☣✌💪🔈✌💪🔉✌💪🔊☣]
We haven't had v1's in so long, the v2 is discontinued and has been unavailable for a few years now.
I watch this video for the ads 🤣😂
Someone has to do it.
oh-oh-oh-o'reilly...
For real though, youtube got on their bs again placing like 6 ads per video....smh
I don't have any ads bothering my videos. ......probably cause I give them $10 a month. ...lol
Im using a 100” long port 4” diameter with sub in a compact tube. 👍🏻😎👍🏻
I’m a Sub nerd.... I get it. Also helped me understand box/impedance rise a bit more
Explain yourself
So I'm not soaking much of this in ... I'm not gonna say I'm not into spl cus that would be a lie. I am into loud accurate music...I like to listen to my music and have it dynamically effect me. That said, in my case how could I use this to allow a flat curve yet gain the efficiency of the port?
Some of the same things apply here. If you want less of a peak, use a smaller port. When you make it too small it will be noisy an inefficient so there are judgement calls to be made there. Example, the lower the tune the lower the port area needed anyway, so maybe you'd be going between a 3" and 4" port where a 3" port would give you a flatter response but still have efficiency where doing a 2" port would lose efficiency.
@@EMFAudio thank you sir for your samich of knowledge for my hungry brain😂😅.
Hi I really like that you and doing. ? I have a 2000w amp with a 1500 speaker. It's mid to cheep dot that alone with a pioneer head unit a 1500w amp 10" sub. 600w 6x9 in back 450w 6.5 with a 300 w tested on the dash. In a Dakota it sounds killer but No bass all you hear is the pioneers the sub is not loud w it is seeled I'm thinking about putting 2 2" x 6" in the boxpvc
Would that work to make it louder
Good video!
The box volume is not the same when u put different subs in it cause of magnetmass and the depth of the cone. But still its a Good video. 👍
Test how much 0.02 cu. ft difference between subs effects results and get back to me.
That is a Civic u test with was bugging the hell out of me only know from the end of this video. And thanks for the info
CRX, yes.
@@EMFAudio close I was going crazy cuz I had a 94 hatch and that back seat looked like it and the side mirror and the cowl. Nice u saved one from being improperly upgraded!
How about flared ports why some speaker boxes sounds good even if the flared part was not included for the calculation of the box just wondering 🤨😅?
Flared ports reduce port noise. The effective length of a flared port isn't the full length of the pipe.
@@EMFAudio The flared part of the port is still a part of the port's effective length ? To get the box's tuned frequency ?
@@electronicbassboy5180 About half of it is, yes. There are flared port calculators that will show the difference from a non flared.
EMF Audio thank youu bro! God bless I learned a lot from this keep up the good work! More subs to come!
I want to get loud around 28 hertz... how do i do it with port area, length on a 10 cubic ft box with 2 18's
You do 15's or a bigger box.
passive radiators
@@EMFAudio dang ol sum ma ma bitch man
@@williamkillingsworth2619 thanks for the input
Wonder if you or anyone else with knowledge can help me. Its relating to ports and and an amp I just got. I have usually run a sealed box with my 12". My amp gave up after 10 years so got a pioneer Gm D9701 but have now found it has no subsonic filter. I have also just built a 2.5 cft ported box and gave away my sealed box but have now been told that this amp will damage my sub in a ported box due to lack of SSF. However some have said I should be fine. I listen to bass heavy music if that makes a dif. Thanks
Having a subsonic filter only matters if what you're playing is too much below tuning. Example, tuned to 32 hz and never play below 32 hz, the subsonic filter would do nothing. If you were tuned to 45 hz and played 30 hz, that's where a problem could occur at higher volume levels.
@@EMFAudio ok I get it. So my box is tuned to 37/38 I think. Its a 2.5 cft box but with sub dis its 2.3cft. The port recommended was a 4" at 190mm. That should tune to 37hz. The mistake I made was I got a horn style port. The bottle neck is 90mm wide with ends flaring to 125mm and a total length of 200mm so its hard to figure if its tuned higher or lower than 37hz. Should i pos look into getting some kind of inline ssf at either 20 or 30hz? Thanks
@@Pkdimmock You can use a port calculator to figure out how that turns out but that sounds like it's definitely too small of port area. That's a pretty high tune for music too.
Sean, you forgot to mention about vehicle peak frequency and how that comes into play. You kept running 60 and 63. Y not run or try 58 hz ? I feel you need a part 2 about vehicle frequency, having same setup in two different vehicles with same box/amp/subs they will act differently and sound different and perform different
I mentioned in the video I was playing the peak frequency, I think what you're describing would be best suited as the same sub in the same box in different vehicles, and I can do that.