I like Dony’s clever idea of placing a paint dab in the handle grip of the adjusting tool! Even he uses that to help him keep track of the adjustments. Smart! And for sure, we can perform this repair ourselves and save money!!! Nice video.
Carby is worth more than the saw in aus, throttle pump replacement and back to factory setting 30min labour and few dollars for a pump. Thanks for the video.
Diaphragm is getting hard or the mesh filter screen inside the carb is clogged up if you have to open up the jets more than 3/4 of a turn on a little Husky. Luckily it's not a Home Depot Sthil or I would say Crank seals or leaking Base gasket or torn intake boot. Don't know how the newer Sthil oil is but the older non synthetic Sthil oil liked to gum up carbs and rings really bad once they sit for a few months. The 435 X-Torq is made in Sweden and 100% Husky. Husky does own Poulan, Redmax and several other brand names but the 400 series saws are 100% Husky. The 435, 435E and 440E are just little 2.2hp 41cc saws that loves to rev to 12,000+ rpm. I have a 445 which came in 45.7cc or 50.2cc depending on manufacture year. Mine is 50.2cc and I've cut ALOT of darn firewood with that thing. Truthfully it feels and cuts very very similar to the good old Husky 55 which was probably the best sub 50cc Firewood saw that you could get back in the 90s. Alot better saw than those POS Stihl 029 Farm Boss that you could get that absolutely loved to blow crank seals out every 2-3 years.
Really interesting like allways. This way to fix this very common issue works, but sometime not. If the setting of the carb was not modified previously, it means that you have a lack of gaz at high regime or a bad ratio air/gaz, caused by an other issue. Could be a dirty filter in the gaz tank, a dirt in the carb, an air leak somewhere, a bad spark at high regime for some reason, sparkplug, bad coal, platinium screw oxid or setting, chock locked, air filter clogged etc ... difficult to know, but when you find the real issue, you notice that the carb setting has to stay like originally. When modifying the setting of the carb works, it means that the issue can be conmpensated by a carb setting because it is not too grave. But often an issue is badly evolving and the setting done is quickly not efficient anylonger. That 's what I noticed. Good repair !
I bought a brand new 435e II, just received it today and it has this same bog issue. Once its revved up and in the cut its fine, but acts like its cold coming off idle. The 20 tooth spline adjustment tool seems to be hard to come by.
Hey Don, LUV ya Man, but ripping on Husky? I cant believe it! 😯 🙄 😂 Kidding kidding… Not every person can afford to get the best, and most Homeowners/ DIY do not need to own a Pro grade saw, so I guess it is why these models exist? @aussiehardwoods6196 made a great point, and I am echoing it here. @ 2:55 Saw has been left to sit out! Look at how the retaining clip has deteriorated and changed color, as well as the cowling of the saw! Terrible lack of care and maintenance! Good concise video Don. I might add, my nearly 20 year old Husky 345 is still going strong. Rarely takes over three pulls total, to start! Always E free gas and 45:1 mix. Recently pulled the muffler, and I could see the honing marks from the Factory! And she has bucked a bunch of wood over the years. Taken down quite a few trees, and in last two years, cleared up over 50 trees lost to an Ice Storm! Those Oregon VersaCut bars are quite nice. Combined with a super cut chain, and they slice and dice really nice! Ha Ha! 😆 Really good things come from Canada! 😊 Take care and stay safe! 👍🇨🇦🇺🇸
I've had my Husqvarna 350 for more than 25 years. NEVER have issues with it, and starts with one or two pulls, ALWAYS. Calling it an "upscale Poulan" may refer to the new Stihl and Husky saws, as they've started switching to plastic in more places. I'm not a brand-ego person. Small engine equipment, for me, has proven Echo to be the most reliable and functional. Your mileage may vary.
@@powrguy1696 But this video isn't about a 350 Husky is it. A 350 Husky is a vertically split magnesium crankcase similar to pro grade saws. Husky, Echo & Stihl all make highly reliable pro grade saws. They also ALL make some models that are horrible turds.
Interesting, because my friend just got rid of all his Stihl equipment and bought all Echo. Japanese made, magnesium crankcase, reliable. Stihl typically makes great power, but it seems like they don't like sitting for any amount of time. I don't have experience with Husky, but I would like to try a 450 Rancher.
My shape on my weed eater was a single D so I made one from the open end of a steel alligator clip, made the D at the split using needle nose pliers and attached it to an old screwdriver with no end on it. I tried a .22 shell but it’s too weak of a metal. When adjusting the H you need to have the throttle wide open while running. Turn in both directions until you have a smooth rpm.
Hi Donny boy, I don’t know if you could help out at all, but I have a Ryobi PCN 4545 45cc chainsaw. I have been on you tube all over to try and find out how to remove the carburettor, but there is nothing at all that I can find on the problem. Would you be able to put a video on about this problem if you can find the time please, also how to get at the adjusting screws as they seem to be different to what I have adjusted on my other chainsaw. This would be a very useful video for all if you could. Many thanks. Michael.D.
Are you always adjusting both L and H screws concurrently? I just put a new oem carburetor on my Stihl but you have to pulse the throttle to get it to get up to speed.
I recently got the same saw from Amazon and right out of the box it has the same problem you covered in this video (thanks BTW) , however, when I insert the tool to adjust the screw it feels like the tool is wobbly around the screw head. The tool opening I believe is 4mm which is what its supposed to be according to online sources. In short I can't adjust the screw because of this. Any idea what's going on? UPDATE: Unfortunately, I was unsuccessful finding any help online so I opted to order a replacement carburetor from Amazon since I couldn't find just the adjustment screws. My hunch was correct the replacement carburetor was easily adjusted using the splined tool that I already had. However, I feel that this was a dirty trick Husqvarna pulled by changing the adjusting screw head size without telling consumers and not making the correct size tool available!
Bonjour Dony , çà suppose que tout le reste (filtre à air, joints spy, prise d'air quelconque) soit bon . Pour ma part je visse d'abord un peu la vis de ralenti ( T ou LA) pour que le régime ne soit pas trop bas. Puis je dévisse d'abord L , doucement pour avoir le meilleur régime sans accélérer, je dévisse encore léger (légèrement trop riche, çà toussote) et enfin je revisse très peu , juste pour que le toussotement disparaisse totalement . Ensuite je fais exactement la même chose pour H , mais en maintenant le moteur à mi-régime , et là je suis très précis dans le réglage. Je teste, puis j'affine s'il le faut , et toujours avec un moteur chaud . J'ai toujours le petit tourne-vis dans la poche pour corriger en travaillant si nécessaire, ... à mon avis le meilleur réglage est celui qu'on fait en travaillant, et il est parfois un peu différent de celui qu'on a fait en atelier , surtout si le moteur était froid . Tout çà pour régler le carbu à la limite de l'excès de richesse, et pas à la limite du mélange pauvre , où le moteur tournerait aussi mais avec des risques de serrage à haut régime , en s'emballant parfois d'ailleurs (trop pauvre et dangereux) mais sans vraie force. Le moteur est préservé pour longtemps car mieux huilé. Et c'est plus précis que le simple respect des réglages constructeur....qu'on a peut-être aussi oubliés ...avec çà on peut s'en passer . I wish you a good day !
Hey Dony, a small engine repair shop shut down in my area. I am thinking of starting a small engine and compact tractor mobile repair business, I am curious on how you get and deal with your parts. Do you call thw companies directly or call the dealerships to order parts. I know you go on the internet too. But I am in the U.S.A so it might be different.
Hmmm...a definate improvement, but I'm not happy with that tune. Set screws factory specs to get it to start. Then work on the L speed seeking the highest rpm at idle, the richen it a little to slow idle down but test & ensure throttle response so there is no hesitation. Now set the H screw. You can be crude and do it with a tach and set it to factory max wot RPM. Or nake a few cuts to where it cuts best and cleans up under load. It should 4-stroke when load is removed or chain lifted. Then fine tune idle screw for 2800-3200. This all should be done with a full or close to full tank of gas. But some of the cheap homeowner saws are hard to tune perfect.
I agree the tuning made the saw run better but still not good. I would be pissed if that saw was handed back to me after having it at a shop expecting it to be fixed. That little husky should rev up without any hesitation at all if tuned properly
Back in the day Husqvarna was THE brand for professionals. In fact they were only sold by accredited dealers who would fuel up and demonstrate the unit before selling it to you. Now they are plastic junk sold by big-box stores. I am still running my 266XP I bought in the 80's. They don't make them like that anymore!
Sir. I sens stress in your voice and video. You need long vacation and hired help with those machines. I like you videos. You articulate well, makes no native english speaker life easier. 👍
I'm always suspicious of the crankcase seals, especially if it's an older saw. I've learned you can waste hours and hours trying to tune a saw, even replacing a carb, when a crankcase leak was the real problem.
I find huskys are naturally cold,, always 3 pulls, choke off then pow.. and a minute or two to warm up... Dont you adjust weedeater's carbs in reverse?? H first then L ???
Husqvarna has unfortunately gone downhill on quality, I have a handheld blower (125B) that I pulled out of a dumpster a few years back, I replaced the fuel lines and cleaned the carb, it has served me well for about 5 years but then it started to act up, turned out the intake boot had slid forward and the crank had significant play up and down. The crank issue was due to the engine housing wearing down. The carburetor has also been problematic. I’m stubborn however and I’m not parting it out until it completely fails. I run ethanol free gas at 32:1. Cylinder and piston still have factory machine marks visible. I also own a Maruyama blower which is about 25 years old and still runs well.
Husqvarna doesn't give you a tool for carb, Stihl is the only way to go in my opinion. I have a ms310 from 1990's and runs great also a 391 with 25" bar and the kombi system with weed wacker pole saw and blower. Go Stihl
Maybe a newer one is made by poulan but if you order one from husqvarna it will come from Sweden! Not made by poulan! The biggest problem with the newer saws is the autotune carbs!
My dads McCulloch chainsaw runs a 40:1 fuel to oil mix meaning that it has more oil in the fuel mix than the 45:1 fuel to oil mix. If the engine is flooding & bogging down it means that the reed valve for the main jet is leaking fuel in the carburettor. Either the main jet reed valve can be replaced if you want to keep the carburettor OEM or a cheap aftermarket carburettor which is good can be fitted. In my experience some of them are no good but if you order them directly from China they're usually o.k.,I ordered a cheap one from an Australian seller on eBay & it was no good !
You are dead on about letting it sit overnight. It sucks when the saw is running great, the customer picks it up just to call you in the morning saying it either won't start or runs poorly.
When your off the grid and need wood because it's freezing and you have to have a special carburetor tool is hogwash. It should be furnished with the saw. I should sue Poulan for freezing for days. Poulan sucks. My old Johnsered i could adjust with a screwdriver.
11 yo Poulan Pro. Bogs like crazy. Will not hold bar oil--leaks like a seive. The manual says find an authorized Poulan Dealer--and pay for the chainsaw again. I will prolly find a chainsaw shop and buy something that isn't just trash.
How dare you compare a Husqvarna to a Poulan? Usually adjusting the carb due to bogging down is the last thing to try because the spark arrestor muffler screen is carboned up, the fuel filter is clogged in the tank, the screen in the carb is clogged, the hard to find side gas vent on the gas tank is clogged up, the diaphragms in the carb are done worn out or just old gas got lacquered up in the carb. Find the real problem/s first before adjusting the carb on any 2 cycle engine.
I have a husky 120 that is bogging but only when it is put into wood. It runs fine otherwise. I have good compression, new carb, new air filter, new spark plug. I can not for the life of me find the proper carb tune to avoid bogging under load. Has anybody ever experienced this? Any idea what else I can look at?
I like Dony’s clever idea of placing a paint dab in the handle grip of the adjusting tool! Even he uses that to help him keep track of the adjustments. Smart! And for sure, we can perform this repair ourselves and save money!!! Nice video.
I learn something new every time I watch one of your videos. I like the spot of paint as a reference point on your driver. Simple yet effective.
I learned how to do these type of things from watching your videos for years.
Perfect!
I like that you explained that there's usually an underlying issue if you need to keep adjusting the H L screws, well done D✊
I absolutely love how detailed you go into it seriously
Carby is worth more than the saw in aus, throttle pump replacement and back to factory setting 30min labour and few dollars for a pump. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for posting this. I have the same saw with the same problem and it fixed it right away with the 3/4 turns. Can't thank you enough!
Good info! 50:1 is 2% oil in the gas. 40:1 is 2.5%, 32:1 a little over 3%. Not that much when you look at the percentages.
As always more very helpful information...... thanks for the video please keep sharing your Knowledge
Diaphragm is getting hard or the mesh filter screen inside the carb is clogged up if you have to open up the jets more than 3/4 of a turn on a little Husky. Luckily it's not a Home Depot Sthil or I would say Crank seals or leaking Base gasket or torn intake boot. Don't know how the newer Sthil oil is but the older non synthetic Sthil oil liked to gum up carbs and rings really bad once they sit for a few months. The 435 X-Torq is made in Sweden and 100% Husky. Husky does own Poulan, Redmax and several other brand names but the 400 series saws are 100% Husky. The 435, 435E and 440E are just little 2.2hp 41cc saws that loves to rev to 12,000+ rpm. I have a 445 which came in 45.7cc or 50.2cc depending on manufacture year. Mine is 50.2cc and I've cut ALOT of darn firewood with that thing. Truthfully it feels and cuts very very similar to the good old Husky 55 which was probably the best sub 50cc Firewood saw that you could get back in the 90s. Alot better saw than those POS Stihl 029 Farm Boss that you could get that absolutely loved to blow crank seals out every 2-3 years.
Used my first husqavarna today and thought it was acting up right out the box! This explains a lot tho! Thank you!
I’m unable to fit the splined driver down in there far enough for it to make an adjustment!
Dang Boy ya'll keep teaching me more and more! Thanks!
Winderdome Resort BC
I bought a set of adjustment tools from Amazon, 60 dollars each at a local parts store. 15 dollars for 6 assorted tools on Amazon
Never had that issue with any of my 4 Stihl’s. Even the old Farm Boss. Maintenance is key.
Really interesting like allways. This way to fix this very common issue works, but sometime not. If the setting of the carb was not modified previously, it means that you have a lack of gaz at high regime or a bad ratio air/gaz, caused by an other issue. Could be a dirty filter in the gaz tank, a dirt in the carb, an air leak somewhere, a bad spark at high regime for some reason, sparkplug, bad coal, platinium screw oxid or setting, chock locked, air filter clogged etc ... difficult to know, but when you find the real issue, you notice that the carb setting has to stay like originally. When modifying the setting of the carb works, it means that the issue can be conmpensated by a carb setting because it is not too grave. But often an issue is badly evolving and the setting done is quickly not efficient anylonger. That 's what I noticed. Good repair !
You've helped me on many of you videos....Thanks!
Brother this is the best video I’ve seen for this, it’s exactly what’s happened to mine thanks
I had one bogging and trouble idling. I checked the filter, plugged solid!!! Wonder it even ran😵💫🤪
Thanks Don. Great information.
I bought a brand new 435e II, just received it today and it has this same bog issue. Once its revved up and in the cut its fine, but acts like its cold coming off idle. The 20 tooth spline adjustment tool seems to be hard to come by.
Thanks Don, sorry I was a tad late getting to this tutorial, Cheers
Thats why they are named POULAN because you gotta keep poulan and poulan and poulan to start
loll🤣🤣🤣
😵💫👍
My newfie buddy always said to my dad when he had a poulan "keep poolin on the poulan"
They put the poo in poulan.
Hey Don, LUV ya Man, but ripping on Husky? I cant believe it! 😯 🙄 😂 Kidding kidding… Not every person can afford to get the best, and most Homeowners/ DIY do not need to own a Pro grade saw, so I guess it is why these models exist? @aussiehardwoods6196 made a great point, and I am echoing it here.
@ 2:55 Saw has been left to sit out! Look at how the retaining clip has deteriorated and changed color, as well as the cowling of the saw! Terrible lack of care and maintenance!
Good concise video Don. I might add, my nearly 20 year old Husky 345 is still going strong. Rarely takes over three pulls total, to start! Always E free gas and 45:1 mix. Recently pulled the muffler, and I could see the honing marks from the Factory! And she has bucked a bunch of wood over the years. Taken down quite a few trees, and in last two years, cleared up over 50 trees lost to an Ice Storm!
Those Oregon VersaCut bars are quite nice. Combined with a super cut chain, and they slice and dice really nice! Ha Ha! 😆 Really good things come from Canada! 😊 Take care and stay safe! 👍🇨🇦🇺🇸
Did you do any tests before deciding it needed adjustments?
I've had my Husqvarna 350 for more than 25 years. NEVER have issues with it, and starts with one or two pulls, ALWAYS. Calling it an "upscale Poulan" may refer to the new Stihl and Husky saws, as they've started switching to plastic in more places. I'm not a brand-ego person. Small engine equipment, for me, has proven Echo to be the most reliable and functional. Your mileage may vary.
@@powrguy1696 But this video isn't about a 350 Husky is it. A 350 Husky is a vertically split magnesium crankcase similar to pro grade saws. Husky, Echo & Stihl all make highly reliable pro grade saws. They also ALL make some models that are horrible turds.
@@aussiehardwood6196 His comment that Husky was an upscale Poulan ("made by the same company") was what warranted the comment.
@@powrguy1696 But he was just stating the truth. If Husky dont have a XP on it, well, it's just a Poulan ⚒🛠
We quit taking in Husqvarna, Poulan & Homelite at our shop . Service what we sell, Stihl & Echo.
Interesting, because my friend just got rid of all his Stihl equipment and bought all Echo. Japanese made, magnesium crankcase, reliable. Stihl typically makes great power, but it seems like they don't like sitting for any amount of time. I don't have experience with Husky, but I would like to try a 450 Rancher.
Hello my friend Happy new year's
Does that saw have limiter caps? Does the tool work over those caps or do you have to remove the caps? Thank you for your time.
No caps, you get at them no problem.
I always thought the h screw was for limiting the top end rpm so you blow the saw up.
Always amazing❤
Do you a video on replacing the governor internally on a riding mower? Or should I just replace the engine?
As with all carb adjustment screws one should gently seat the screw, just touch, then back out.
My shape on my weed eater was a single D so I made one from the open end of a steel alligator clip, made the D at the split using needle nose pliers and attached it to an old screwdriver with no end on it. I tried a .22 shell but it’s too weak of a metal. When adjusting the H you need to have the throttle wide open while running. Turn in both directions until you have a smooth rpm.
Thanks again.
How do you stop it from leaking the bar oil out in the case?
Hi Donny boy, I don’t know if you could help out at all, but I have a Ryobi PCN 4545 45cc chainsaw. I have been on you tube all over to try and find out how to remove the carburettor, but there is nothing at all that I can find on the problem. Would you be able to put a video on about this problem if you can find the time please, also how to get at the adjusting screws as they seem to be different to what I have adjusted on my other chainsaw. This would be a very useful video for all if you could. Many thanks.
Michael.D.
Big help to me.
Are you always adjusting both L and H screws concurrently?
I just put a new oem carburetor on my Stihl but you have to pulse the throttle to get it to get up to speed.
so both the high and low are 1 1/2 turns to start with what about the screw marked T
I have a Sthil that is bogging on full throttle. Just looses power . Hopefully an adjustment will be the fix.
Change fuel filter and air filter first 😊😊😊
Then check spark arrestor
Great video on adjustments
Good information from the USA central Florida
Good job
Good vid. Thanks
Well done.
Would this be the same adjustment for a rancher 450e
I believe so
Bravo et merci encoe pour une video super utile !
What chainsaw do you prefer I assume it's either echo or sthil😮
Verrrrrrryyyyyy Innnnnnnnnteresssssssssting indeed
Do you take the limiters off?
Thank you for the video
I recently got the same saw from Amazon and right out of the box it has the same problem you covered in this video (thanks BTW) , however, when I insert the tool to adjust the screw it feels like the tool is wobbly around the screw head. The tool opening I believe is 4mm which is what its supposed to be according to online sources. In short I can't adjust the screw because of this. Any idea what's going on?
UPDATE: Unfortunately, I was unsuccessful finding any help online so I opted to order a replacement carburetor from Amazon since I couldn't find just the adjustment screws. My hunch was correct the replacement carburetor was easily adjusted using the splined tool that I already had. However, I feel that this was a dirty trick Husqvarna pulled by changing the adjusting screw head size without telling consumers and not making the correct size tool available!
Bonjour Dony , çà suppose que tout le reste (filtre à air, joints spy, prise d'air quelconque) soit bon .
Pour ma part je visse d'abord un peu la vis de ralenti ( T ou LA) pour que le régime ne soit pas trop bas. Puis je dévisse d'abord L , doucement pour avoir le meilleur régime sans accélérer, je dévisse encore léger (légèrement trop riche, çà toussote) et enfin je revisse très peu , juste pour que le toussotement disparaisse totalement .
Ensuite je fais exactement la même chose pour H , mais en maintenant le moteur à mi-régime , et là je suis très précis dans le réglage.
Je teste, puis j'affine s'il le faut , et toujours avec un moteur chaud . J'ai toujours le petit tourne-vis dans la poche pour corriger en travaillant si nécessaire, ... à mon avis le meilleur réglage est celui qu'on fait en travaillant, et il est parfois un peu différent de celui qu'on a fait en atelier , surtout si le moteur était froid .
Tout çà pour régler le carbu à la limite de l'excès de richesse, et pas à la limite du mélange pauvre , où le moteur tournerait aussi mais avec des risques de serrage à haut régime , en s'emballant parfois d'ailleurs (trop pauvre et dangereux) mais sans vraie force. Le moteur est préservé pour longtemps car mieux huilé. Et c'est plus précis que le simple respect des réglages constructeur....qu'on a peut-être aussi oubliés ...avec çà on peut s'en passer .
I wish you a good day !
Hey Dony, a small engine repair shop shut down in my area. I am thinking of starting a small engine and compact tractor mobile repair business, I am curious on how you get and deal with your parts. Do you call thw companies directly or call the dealerships to order parts. I know you go on the internet too. But I am in the U.S.A so it might be different.
thanks sir great vidio
I carry my carb adjustment tool when I’m using my poulan chain saws
They are strange 😢😢😢
Hmmm...a definate improvement, but I'm not happy with that tune. Set screws factory specs to get it to start. Then work on the L speed seeking the highest rpm at idle, the richen it a little to slow idle down but test & ensure throttle response so there is no hesitation. Now set the H screw. You can be crude and do it with a tach and set it to factory max wot RPM. Or nake a few cuts to where it cuts best and cleans up under load. It should 4-stroke when load is removed or chain lifted. Then fine tune idle screw for 2800-3200. This all should be done with a full or close to full tank of gas. But some of the cheap homeowner saws are hard to tune perfect.
Appreciate the tuning tips♥
I agree the tuning made the saw run better but still not good. I would be pissed if that saw was handed back to me after having it at a shop expecting it to be fixed. That little husky should rev up without any hesitation at all if tuned properly
❤🎉.
Thanks 🙏👍
Back in the day Husqvarna was THE brand for professionals. In fact they were only sold by accredited dealers who would fuel up and demonstrate the unit before selling it to you. Now they are plastic junk sold by big-box stores. I am still running my 266XP I bought in the 80's. They don't make them like that anymore!
I guess you never ran a 562xp,
Thanks Dony. Do you prefer Don or Dony?
I do with the brake off ...
The T for what I mean for high speed or low speed,same time I confused
Soy un gran seguidor de tu canal pero vivo en España podrías hacer los suctilulos en español estaría muy agradecido
Sir. I sens stress in your voice and video. You need long vacation and hired help with those machines. I like you videos. You articulate well, makes no native english speaker life easier. 👍
👍👍
I'm always suspicious of the crankcase seals, especially if it's an older saw. I've learned you can waste hours and hours trying to tune a saw, even replacing a carb, when a crankcase leak was the real problem.
I find huskys are naturally cold,, always 3 pulls, choke off then pow.. and a minute or two to warm up... Dont you adjust weedeater's carbs in reverse?? H first then L ???
Husqvarna has unfortunately gone downhill on quality, I have a handheld blower (125B) that I pulled out of a dumpster a few years back, I replaced the fuel lines and cleaned the carb, it has served me well for about 5 years but then it started to act up, turned out the intake boot had slid forward and the crank had significant play up and down. The crank issue was due to the engine housing wearing down. The carburetor has also been problematic. I’m stubborn however and I’m not parting it out until it completely fails. I run ethanol free gas at 32:1. Cylinder and piston still have factory machine marks visible. I also own a Maruyama blower which is about 25 years old and still runs well.
We try to avoid any husqvarna equipment in my shop, they are nothing but trouble.
I really hate those clamps on Husqies 😮💨
👍👍👍🦅🦅🦅😉
TRY AMS OILSABER 60 TO 1 TO 80 TO 1 DONT USE PUMP GAS ORE BUY 50 TO1 GAS FROM HOMEDEPO YOU WILL LIKE IT.
Hi sorry for the question I want to cosplay leatherface so I want to buy a chainsaw and remove the chain can I rev up the chainsaw?
I would cut off all the teeth
Yeah I was thinking this too it will be tidius did just remove the chain will destroy the chainsaw?@@donyboy73
Check Air Filter first
Husqvarna doesn't give you a tool for carb, Stihl is the only way to go in my opinion. I have a ms310 from 1990's and runs great also a 391 with 25" bar and the kombi system with weed wacker pole saw and blower. Go Stihl
Maybe a newer one is made by poulan but if you order one from husqvarna it will come from Sweden! Not made by poulan! The biggest problem with the newer saws is the autotune carbs!
The Husqvarna 435 is famous for leaking bar oil, are you able to provide a video on how to fix that in the future?
Best fix is buy a Stihl 👍
@@stihl3826 😂 you’re not wrong
My dads McCulloch chainsaw runs a 40:1 fuel to oil mix meaning that it has more oil in the fuel mix than the 45:1 fuel to oil mix.
If the engine is flooding & bogging down it means that the reed valve for the main jet is leaking fuel in the carburettor.
Either the main jet reed valve can be replaced if you want to keep the carburettor OEM or a cheap aftermarket carburettor which is good can be fitted.
In my experience some of them are no good but if you order them directly from China they're usually o.k.,I ordered a cheap one from an Australian seller on eBay & it was no good !
Ain’t got no gas in it!
Great movie! Lol!
You are dead on about letting it sit overnight. It sucks when the saw is running great, the customer picks it up just to call you in the morning saying it either won't start or runs poorly.
I thought Husqvarna makes their own chainsaws.
I was shocked when he said they made by Poulan! All the Poulan stuff I've seen is just a step ahead of Ryobi junk!
This is the only chainsaw that I've purchased in the past that was junk from new until I gave away.
When your off the grid and need wood because it's freezing and you have to have a special carburetor tool is hogwash. It should be furnished with the saw. I should sue Poulan for freezing for days. Poulan sucks. My old Johnsered i could adjust with a screwdriver.
Test run tells me the saw is not properly adjusted. Both of my 435's run way, way better.
11 yo Poulan Pro. Bogs like crazy. Will not hold bar oil--leaks like a seive. The manual says find an authorized Poulan Dealer--and pay for the chainsaw again. I will prolly find a chainsaw shop and buy something that isn't just trash.
Husky junk sell him a stihl 😊
Double Mehhh... 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Buy a Stihl!
Meh... 🤷🏼♂️
Its now running to rich on the low side.
Don't be knocking my poulan just keep in tuned like it more than Stihl cause all they do is still your money
Just buy a echo cs 590 chainsaw and your done and good too go, spend the money up front. End of story.
What a wimpy chainsaw for a Husky!
How dare you compare a Husqvarna to a Poulan? Usually adjusting the carb due to bogging down is the last thing to try because the spark arrestor muffler screen is carboned up, the fuel filter is clogged in the tank, the screen in the carb is clogged, the hard to find side gas vent on the gas tank is clogged up, the diaphragms in the carb are done worn out or just old gas got lacquered up in the carb. Find the real problem/s first before adjusting the carb on any 2 cycle engine.
Why would Husky put their name on a Poulin? Bad business decision.
Definitely not a Stihl lol
I have a husky 120 that is bogging but only when it is put into wood. It runs fine otherwise. I have good compression, new carb, new air filter, new spark plug. I can not for the life of me find the proper carb tune to avoid bogging under load. Has anybody ever experienced this? Any idea what else I can look at?
I would turn out the H screw just a bit
Always good to make some money off helpless saw owners!
It still bogs slightly.
I turned it out another 1/4 turn after.