Here my friends thought I was going overboard cleaning my saw, bar, and the clutch/drum after every weekend I use them. I use them hard, too. This just proves I was correct in my practice. "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"
Every use is probably excessive, but like myself, you probably enjoy doing it. It's really satisfying to clean up a grungy saw. It's also nice to pull out,a clean saw to use. Better too much maintenance than not enough.
Another super helpful, money saving video from Dony! Wow….I never knew this could happen!!! This simple maintenance would prevent losing the entire saw. Thanks so much, Dony!
I'm a hard knuckle chainsaw guy ,but maintenance is always my first priority "AS WELL AS A SHARP CHAIN" my saw after years is better than new 😅! U my number 0ne guy,keep up the good work mate
I clean and grease this bearing after each use of my MS462. Prior to installing the bearing, I fill the interior about half full of Stihl grease and cover the opposite end of the bearing with my finger. As the bearing slides are pressed over the crankshaft with my finger, the grease is forced from the interior through to the exterior surfaces of the bearing packing it. I then slide the clutch drum on , making sure that the slot in the drum engages the oil pump, and then complete the assembly. Less messy way to grease it. This is a good video. Thanks Don.
Have a husky 51. It is 30 years old now. Never knew about this bearing maintenance till this year. I now do it and the bearing was still good. I do 20 cords or more a year. Great video for those who did not know. I think all of us really enjoy how you share your knowledge. Will be working Dec.29th up in your area
Cut wood for 50 years. Never knew about this bearing maintenance. Started out with a XL-123 Homelite, then a R55 Partner. I ended up converting both to a rim sprocket from a star sprocket. Bars back then were hard nos bars not sprocket nose bars. After cutting firewood for my dad and I I have now converted to wood pellets.I have a Harman PF-100 wood furnace. I must say that I actually enjoyed my time in the woods with my dad. He has passed on in July at 95 years old. Many memories, mostly good and some bad. I now own a Husqvarna 359, and an Echo CS-370 chain saws.
I’ve never particularly had an interest in small engines before, I just did what I needed to on my own equipment when the time arose but after bingeing all your videos you make being a small engine mechanic look so cool. I’m always outside doing the maintenance tips you show
Great tip and reminder! Admittedly, I haven't done that since I got my saws running. I have stihl 460, 034, and 260 which I just bought new oil cap for per another video of yours. Thank you for your very informative videos. While I have figured out over the years much of the content, I refer to your knowledge and experience to dot i's and cross t's. Your "no BS" delivery approach keeps me coming back for more knowledge. Thanks and keep up the excellent work. TC
I’m a longtime subscriber and just watched this video last night. I’ve owned an MS391 for 6 years and use it for about 6 weeks a year to cut firewood to heat my home (around 16 m2 of mixed softwood and hardwood). I do all the maintenance myself. I’ve replaced the clutch drum and bearing once in that time but have never lubricated the bearing in between. This morning I removed the E-clip to check the condition of the bearing, and the plastic cage was broken! Fortunately the crankshaft appears to be undamaged. You saved my saw, Dony. Thank you!
Great advice but one other thing that will cause this wear is over tightening the chain , if fact that can actually take your main crank bearing and seal out. Cheers , former Stihl Canada Tech. Dept. employee.
I'm a professional tree surgeon in the UK, I have both 291 and 391 they are great saws. I clean my fully after each day, even sometimes during the day if it's particularly dirty weather or I'm cutting a wind blow out of a river. Another great informative video for the uninitiated, thanks.
@@ronaldbailey7365 I was going to say same; plus power-to-weight ratio is better for less fatigue and more productivity, plus the materials are stronger e.g. more magnesium, less plastic. Do a teardown or watch a youtube teardown of home-gamer vs. pro saws from Stihl. Night and day differences.
More important tips! Thanks. Volunteer in preserve with much chainsaw work. Saws take aa beating. Your tips assist in maintaining said saws that are essential to preserve maintenance. Essential channel for me and the preserve.
Great advice. I was unaware that new saws had plastic clutch bearing cages. My saws are older and I used NGLI-2 lithium. I now use NGLI-2 shear stable polyurea. I replace clutch spurs as the chain wears into them causing pitch change compared to new replacement chains. But, bearings are original from back in mid 1970's.
Glad I caught this video. I learned about the roller bearing when I first started running saw 15 years ago, but I, uh... forgot about it. And I just bought a used Echo. Sure enough, all my saws including the Echo had dry roller bearings BIG time. Much better now.
Just replaced needle bearings in an MS311 and MS361 (MS361 got very hard to pull, I found needle bearings in the case when I pulled the clutch drum; I replaced the bearings in the 311 before it happened there). I had not greased them ever! Thanks donyboy, you are spot on as usual. I've been running saws for 50 years off and (mostly) on, having owned about a dozen and had never seen this happen before. Heed his advice!
That's been on my mind about that bearing and you put my mind at ease cause I'm heading to the shop now. Much thanks and appreciate it. Nothing's cheap these days and any preventative maintenance is worth everything!! 👍😉
Thank you for this video, really. I made the purchase of a brand new MS261, with the M-tronic. I'm really keen on proper maintenance and being a new chainsaw owner, not entirely fluent in the dos, donts, and shoulds. Still studying sharpening alot. With no one to turn to in person, and only TH-cam videos and hear say to go off of. I do a lot of trial and error research. Now I'm aware of another consideration in terms of maintenance! Thank you!
Dony, not sure if you remember me but you helped me out big time with Sachs Dolmar older than dirt chain saw. I picked up Stihl MS261C a couple of years ago to give my smaller Sachs Dolmar a break. With a longer bar the Stihl is my "go to" saw but frankly the weight and balance of the Sachs Dolmar old saw is hard to beat. So I just decided to pull the Sachs Dolmar out and run through some smaller logs when I notices fuel dripping onto my boot. I set the saw down removed the 3 screws holding the housing and the one holding the handle and I could see immediately the fuel line had broken where the slip-on brass fitting transitions. I was thinking about getting all the fuel out and dried and then hitting the fuel line with a little heat to see if I could slip it onto the brass fitting on the carb but the more I looked at it there simply isn't enough fuel line length to do that. Can you recommend me a vendor for a fuel line and that filter like device which I see in the Sachs-Dolmar fuel tank? Also, any "bear traps" I need to avoid in threading a new line through the old rubber grommet?
I have a ms180 size and I maintain that area. I've 6 years and haven't had the need to replace any of it yet. Might be up for a new sprocket next year but if that's all I need in that time, it's worth the ounce of prevention
Thanks so much Dony, this will be my first job tomorrow morning lol. I had never thought about that bearing at all. Thanks for bringing it to our attention. Cheers mate.
Ive been doing that on my saws going back to the 90s. They have always been plastic caged through at least 5 stihls. My saw mechanic pulled me aside, when i was having a saw sharpened and ahowed me how to break it down that far. He used to maintain a whole landscaping crews saws. General rule of thumb. Was hit it in the spring and fall. Then every 4 sharpening. About qhen you got it near the shop and swere usung the air compressor. To clean it up. Its probably every few cords of wood for me. Averaging 30 to40 cords a year. Ive never seen a clutch shaft wear loose. The sales guy goes farther and recommends loosening the chain when you quit. So the chains not hot and pulling\bending the shaft. He says he has seen it. When he worked the repair side
Hey Don, I just did the bearing maintenance/cleaned and greased on my 290. While I had the clutch drum off I cleaned the inside surface where it contacts the clutch also with the carb cleaner an a terry towel. It had a build up on the edges that don’t contact the clutch. Got it back together feeling good about something I didn’t know. Thanks Matt From Ohio 👍👍
290 is well and I love it I'm not looking forward to upgrading to a newer cheaper made song in the future that's for sure I'm going to make sure all 290 stays running strong FYI do the muffler mod thank me later LOL
Also note that using the chain brake when idling with it on for anymore then needed will melt those plastic caged bearings, melt plastic case around the brake band, change the temper in your clutch springs also. I did a 2 part series on a ms171 that had this happen to, and have a couple ms170s on the shelf from customers who did the same thing. There are aftermarket options for steel caged clutch bearings also. I never use the stihl plastic caged ones anymore for those reasons
Hi Dony, greetings from Down Under. Thanks for the 291 advice. I have a fairly new one and will be checking the bearing from now on. I also have a Stihl 010 from the early ‘80’s. It is still going strong. I can’t help thinking they are not made as well now.
Good information. Many people neglect these little things that make a big difference in longevity of their saw. It is hard to understand why manufacturers make something they know is going to get beat on so cheap, and ask a pretty penny for it out of the box.
When I've done this, I notice a difference for the better in performance. But I used standard axel grease- not sure if that's the best option... Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks for sharing this vital information. I checked my bearing today and it was needing grease. Without this video I would never have known to check….until it was too late. Note to Stihl: Please change to a metal cased roller bearing not the plastic version.
Same plastic cage on camshafts of the Harley Twin Cam and Evo. Most owners replace with Torrington steel cage so I wonder if the same could be done on the saws? Hate to admit but in this case the plastic cage beaing held together as crank wore down.
thanks for the good advice. We have an old Farmboss 29, and a new MS661. I did encounter a worn out bearing, it was gone. patched it up with a new bearing and some lube.
Also on the ms194 to check under the recoil for pom prons it is common for them to be by the coil if you don't check you will get the cylinder hot same on the ms201tcm
Thanks for the heads up. I have the same plastic cage roller bearing design on my MS250 that I purchased new last year. Just packed mine with low temp lithium grease, great tip thanks!
Thank you for the great maintenance tip. I am new to the chain saw game. Have learned a lot from you. I have always taken care of my equipment, but this is another level which I am happy to start doing. Saving me money and having my machines run at their top potential is key! Thanks again
How often is Thais recommend ? I just checked my 2017 261 of course bearing dry ... it had little play but after greasing was snug agin so I guess I’m good I prob don’t put more than 30h on since ... used shell 22 greas it’s a air plain grease for like -60 to 240 c or so
Well now this is a interesting video and I already knew about this. I have always done routine maintenance on my sprocket bearings, but this is definitely good information for people that didn't even know that this little bearing existed.
Brilliant! MS 362s do this too and if ignored, the rocking of the clutch drum on worn bearings and on the worn crank stresses the E-clip and its groove causing wear and the whole drum, sprocket and chain sometimes makes a bid for freedom out of the side of the clutch cover. Over 4 years I have consigned nine 362s to parts for one customer who runs a big saw fleet. The saws are excellent, robust and reliable and earn the money, but they get worked hard and maintenance just does not seem to happen out on site.... 1&2 series pro and semi-pro Husqvarnas had a greasing drilling in the end of the crank and had less issues. Without this, the clutch drum bearing just does not seem to get enough lube from chain oil alone.
Thank you for the maintenance tip Dony! I just checked the parts diagram for both my baby Poulan and my Chinese 038 clone (don't judge me...lol) and they both have this arrangement.
That's the 1st thing I did, too, on my 2 Poulans. You are right, there is no roller bearing. Guess that's one of the reasons that they sell for $130 vs $300 &up for Stihl & Husq.
@@jjparody8257 Yes. Instead of a nice roller bearing, the little Poulan has a bearing sleeve pressed into the clutch drum. 😒Disposable versus rebuildable. Even more reason for me to clean and lube it I imagine.
Actually, that plastic bearing cage is somewhat designed as a sacrificial component. Grease it every 50 hours/season and it will last almost forever . But as owners generally don't perform grease maintenance, a stronger metal bearing cage would rapidly grind down the crankshaft causing that saw to be srapped prematurely. As Donny said, changing the bearing cage makes economic sense, changing the crankshaft doesn't !
Great video and good advice. I currently maintain and repair power equipment such as chainsaws and cut-off saws for the fire dpt and I saw something in this video that never occured to me before. At 2:33 you explain that the handheld grease tool (which I have that exact same one) can be used on the shaft to grease the bearing, and that not every saw has that. Question: Do you have a short list of saws that do have that grease application feature on the shaft? My department primarily uses MS 460s, MS 660s, MS 661Cs, and MS 462Cs. I'm looking closely at an MS 660 that I have in my shop and it has that hole in the shaft. However, it doesn't seem like there's anywhere for the grease to go. I'm guessing the only purpose that hole serves on this saw is to keep a puller centered if you're messing with the main bearings for some reason. Hope you're still making vids because I'll be watching them. Thanks.
Thanks, good videos. Very helpful information. Do have anything on replacing chain brake on STIHL MS291 releasing the tension on the two springs tools best used to do so. Than put everything back together.
One of my saws is a 1984 038. Any idea when Stihl changed to plastic bearings? My other 2 saws are later vintage 015, I'm guessing the smaller saws are probably plastic bearings.
Thanks Dony, I have a MS180 and It was on my todo list but I didn't know about the plastic bearing, it's kind of ridiculous that to save 1$ a company would design something like that. It looks like a trend now to make short videos, not sure why but I like the concept.
This is surprising. In my experience, that bearing is totally still 99% of the time because it only spins when the saw is idling. When cutting, and the clutch is engaged, the bearing doesn't turn. Nonetheless, I keep mine clean and lubed, but I'm thinking some of Dony's customers must 1) completely ignore basic cleaning and lube and 2) let their saws idle for long periods of time.
Sorry but that is wrong, the bearing spinns the whole time when the saw is running. But the good thing is that you can buy those metal ones. I dont know if you in America can but we in Germany can. Greetings
@@maxmustermann2841 Think once more. At high RPMs, the crankshaft, clutch shoe assembly, and clutch housing all turn together as one. When the clutch is engaged that bearing is still. When the the motor idles, the crankshaft continues to rotate (slowly) along with the shoes, but the clutch housing is still. Hence, the crankshaft spins inside the clutch housing. This is what the bearing is needed for.
LOL...though I do agree with you that the bearing "spins"; it's just spinning in a stationary state in concert with the crankshaft, shoes, and clutch drum. It's basically going along for the ride. Maybe that's what you were referring to.
This video was really helpful. I have always taken out the clutch drum and the roller bearing to blow that area out. Can the Oregon grease gun you showed be used on the Stihl 261? Thanks -
Servicing your saw after heavy use for next use or user is key . That’s what was taught at a chainsaw servicing and usage seminar the guys went to. Line up the clutch drum to your oiler lever also on those Stihls .And watch that you don’t flick the c clip across the room ( ask me how I know this) Clean , bar and chain maintenance and adjustments will make them last for near forever. 10 plus years so far lol
Hi Dony, very useful video...as usual! Ce roulement ne se voit pas et on le néglige souvent. Le pire est aussi de nettoyer le coté pignon/chaine avec un coup de laveur haute pression , pour gagner du temps. Je l'ai déjà vu. L'eau rentre dans la cloche avec la pression , rien de pire pour accélérer la détérioration du roulement, de l'embrayage, de la pompe à huile...Une catastrophe si la machine est ensuite rangée pour un bon moment, ce qui est souvent le cas. Je te suis depuis la France avec beaucoup de plaisir! Michel
A very broad question. A 260 used only a few days a year and occasionally had to work hard but mostly medium work ... Looked after and never abused... Yearly fuel used would not be more than 10 litres...... What would you say could be a life expectancy of this saw? Just a very broad question I know but I've often wondered over the years when might the time be to start thinking about a new one. Its been brilliant for years and its still brilliant today.
I have an MS 291, and we just took it apart. The bearing cage is indeed plastic. Does Stihl or anyone offer a steel caged roller bearing to fit? Will a Pro model roller bearing work? I know that there were fixes for this problem on automotive crankshafts where the oil seal would wear a groove in the crank. There is a ring that can be slid over the crank to cover the groove. I also have a MS 260Pro i bought in 2007. Will it have this problem as well? Thank you for your time and the video.
Omg, I didn't know about this service point, thanks! Hope my older MS260 has the better quality bearing. I think I would have noticed play, so I'm probably good. It'll get greased now.
I looked at my MS260 today. Indeed it has a plastic sleeved bearing, so it looks like they’ve been using them for awhile, even on the pro level saws. No play or visible wear, but it was dry of any grease, and I couldn’t see any sign of grease ever being there. I suspect it might have been oiled only. I’m so glad I saw this video to catch this before I had issues. I used the red lithium all temperature bearing grease, which should work fine.
Hi there. We enjoy your videos and and instruction. Thank you. Question: I saw a video recently about an aftermarket implement for my ms250. It was a drilling attachment - the bar is removed and this attachment is bolted on. This would allow me to easily drill one inch holes into the center of a 20 in. dia tree trunk, or so it seems. What effect would that kind of use have on the saw? Thanks in advance.
To late, my clutch drum is hard on the shaft. What preceded the failure is the chain wouldn't run. Removed it and the clutch drum is frozen hard to the clutch mechanism or the clutch shaft. Thanks for the video it might be helpful if I can get that drum of "IF".
This stinks. I had no idea about this dony. I just put a brand new Zama carb on my ms250, and didn’t grease this roller bearing. Hopefully it’s not damaged. How often should this be done? Every 3 chains? Every 5th gas tank?
I'm curious to know if there's a way to weld material back on to the crankshaft in the low areas and then sand or smooth it out to be circular again. Not a problem I have yet, but something the welder in me wonders is possible.
Is that just on the ms291 ms391 or do you have to grease the clutch drum bearing on all makes of chainsaws ? I also try to keep up with the maintenance on my and my dad's saws
Check out my video on a neat MS170 chain adjuster mod here;
th-cam.com/video/RnFd2NMWPYo/w-d-xo.html
Here my friends thought I was going overboard cleaning my saw, bar, and the clutch/drum after every weekend I use them. I use them hard, too. This just proves I was correct in my practice. "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"
Every use is probably excessive, but like myself, you probably enjoy doing it. It's really satisfying to clean up a grungy saw. It's also nice to pull out,a clean saw to use. Better too much maintenance than not enough.
What you are saying is maybe I should do this to my 40 year old mcculloch? I thought I cleaned it pretty good with a air hose. Never had any problems.
I am planning on getting me a 391 at some point. I hope they don’t stop making it anytime soon, but I’m glad I watched this video
Another super helpful, money saving video from Dony! Wow….I never knew this could happen!!! This simple maintenance would prevent losing the entire saw. Thanks so much, Dony!
I'm a hard knuckle chainsaw guy ,but maintenance is always my first priority "AS WELL AS A SHARP CHAIN" my saw after years is better than new 😅!
U my number 0ne guy,keep up the good work mate
I clean and grease this bearing after each use of my MS462. Prior to installing the bearing, I fill the interior about half full of Stihl grease and cover the opposite end of the bearing with my finger. As the bearing slides are pressed over the crankshaft with my finger, the grease is forced from the interior through to the exterior surfaces of the bearing packing it. I then slide the clutch drum on , making sure that the slot in the drum engages the oil pump, and then complete the assembly. Less messy way to grease it. This is a good video. Thanks Don.
I just wrote, then cancelled a comment, after I scrolled down to see you said almost exactly what I said.
Have a husky 51. It is 30 years old now. Never knew about this bearing maintenance till this year. I now do it and the bearing was still good. I do 20 cords or more a year. Great video for those who did not know. I think all of us really enjoy how you share your knowledge. Will be working Dec.29th up in your area
Cut wood for 50 years. Never knew about this bearing maintenance. Started out with a XL-123 Homelite, then a R55 Partner. I ended up converting both to a rim sprocket from a star sprocket. Bars back then were hard nos bars not sprocket nose bars. After cutting firewood for my dad and I I have now converted to wood pellets.I have a Harman PF-100 wood furnace. I must say that I actually enjoyed my time in the woods with my dad. He has passed on in July at 95 years old. Many memories, mostly good and some bad. I now own a Husqvarna 359, and an Echo CS-370 chain saws.
I’ve never particularly had an interest in small engines before, I just did what I needed to on my own equipment when the time arose but after bingeing all your videos you make being a small engine mechanic look so cool. I’m always outside doing the maintenance tips you show
Excellent! I have an MS 291 and did not know this, thank you. And the 291 has been a very reliable saw.
Great tip and reminder! Admittedly, I haven't done that since I got my saws running. I have stihl 460, 034, and 260 which I just bought new oil cap for per another video of yours. Thank you for your very informative videos. While I have figured out over the years much of the content, I refer to your knowledge and experience to dot i's and cross t's. Your "no BS" delivery approach keeps me coming back for more knowledge. Thanks and keep up the excellent work. TC
I’m a longtime subscriber and just watched this video last night. I’ve owned an MS391 for 6 years and use it for about 6 weeks a year to cut firewood to heat my home (around 16 m2 of mixed softwood and hardwood). I do all the maintenance myself. I’ve replaced the clutch drum and bearing once in that time but have never lubricated the bearing in between. This morning I removed the E-clip to check the condition of the bearing, and the plastic cage was broken! Fortunately the crankshaft appears to be undamaged. You saved my saw, Dony. Thank you!
Great advice but one other thing that will cause this wear is over tightening the chain , if fact that can actually take your main crank bearing and seal out.
Cheers , former Stihl Canada Tech. Dept. employee.
Great point John, as will not releasing tension on the chain after saw has been shut down from a lot of cutting!
Man, great advice. I’ll service my two saws the next time I’m at our farm.
I'm a professional tree surgeon in the UK, I have both 291 and 391 they are great saws. I clean my fully after each day, even sometimes during the day if it's particularly dirty weather or I'm cutting a wind blow out of a river. Another great informative video for the uninitiated, thanks.
Gotta get pro grade saws last longer
@@ronaldbailey7365 I was going to say same; plus power-to-weight ratio is better for less fatigue and more productivity, plus the materials are stronger e.g. more magnesium, less plastic. Do a teardown or watch a youtube teardown of home-gamer vs. pro saws from Stihl. Night and day differences.
More important tips! Thanks. Volunteer in preserve with much chainsaw work. Saws take aa beating. Your tips assist in maintaining said saws that are essential to preserve maintenance. Essential channel for me and the preserve.
Great advice. I was unaware that new saws had plastic clutch bearing cages. My saws are older and I used NGLI-2 lithium. I now use NGLI-2 shear stable polyurea. I replace clutch spurs as the chain wears into them causing pitch change compared to new replacement chains. But, bearings are original from back in mid 1970's.
Yes Sir,been doing this for years ms391 and old school 044.Running smooth with no problems.
Glad I caught this video. I learned about the roller bearing when I first started running saw 15 years ago, but I, uh... forgot about it. And I just bought a used Echo. Sure enough, all my saws including the Echo had dry roller bearings BIG time. Much better now.
Just replaced needle bearings in an MS311 and MS361 (MS361 got very hard to pull, I found needle bearings in the case when I pulled the clutch drum; I replaced the bearings in the 311 before it happened there). I had not greased them ever! Thanks donyboy, you are spot on as usual. I've been running saws for 50 years off and (mostly) on, having owned about a dozen and had never seen this happen before. Heed his advice!
That's been on my mind about that bearing and you put my mind at ease cause I'm heading to the shop now. Much thanks and appreciate it. Nothing's cheap these days and any preventative maintenance is worth everything!! 👍😉
Thank you for this video, really.
I made the purchase of a brand new MS261, with the M-tronic.
I'm really keen on proper maintenance and being a new chainsaw owner, not entirely fluent in the dos, donts, and shoulds.
Still studying sharpening alot. With no one to turn to in person, and only TH-cam videos and hear say to go off of. I do a lot of trial and error research.
Now I'm aware of another consideration in terms of maintenance! Thank you!
Dony, not sure if you remember me but you helped me out big time with Sachs Dolmar older than dirt chain saw. I picked up Stihl MS261C a couple of years ago to give my smaller Sachs Dolmar a break. With a longer bar the Stihl is my "go to" saw but frankly the weight and balance of the Sachs Dolmar old saw is hard to beat. So I just decided to pull the Sachs Dolmar out and run through some smaller logs when I notices fuel dripping onto my boot. I set the saw down removed the 3 screws holding the housing and the one holding the handle and I could see immediately the fuel line had broken where the slip-on brass fitting transitions. I was thinking about getting all the fuel out and dried and then hitting the fuel line with a little heat to see if I could slip it onto the brass fitting on the carb but the more I looked at it there simply isn't enough fuel line length to do that. Can you recommend me a vendor for a fuel line and that filter like device which I see in the Sachs-Dolmar fuel tank? Also, any "bear traps" I need to avoid in threading a new line through the old rubber grommet?
Have a 270 and 271, will check them this weekend, great tip thanks
I have a ms180 size and I maintain that area. I've 6 years and haven't had the need to replace any of it yet. Might be up for a new sprocket next year but if that's all I need in that time, it's worth the ounce of prevention
Thanks so much Dony, this will be my first job tomorrow morning lol. I had never thought about that bearing at all. Thanks for bringing it to our attention.
Cheers mate.
Cleaned the bearings and clutch housing today. Thanks Dony for the thumbs up.
Ive been doing that on my saws going back to the 90s. They have always been plastic caged through at least 5 stihls. My saw mechanic pulled me aside, when i was having a saw sharpened and ahowed me how to break it down that far. He used to maintain a whole landscaping crews saws. General rule of thumb. Was hit it in the spring and fall. Then every 4 sharpening. About qhen you got it near the shop and swere usung the air compressor. To clean it up. Its probably every few cords of wood for me. Averaging 30 to40 cords a year. Ive never seen a clutch shaft wear loose.
The sales guy goes farther and recommends loosening the chain when you quit. So the chains not hot and pulling\bending the shaft. He says he has seen it. When he worked the repair side
Hey Don, I just did the bearing maintenance/cleaned and greased on my 290. While I had the clutch drum off I cleaned the inside surface where it contacts the clutch also with the carb cleaner an a terry towel. It had a build up on the edges that don’t contact the clutch. Got it back together feeling good about something I didn’t know.
Thanks
Matt
From Ohio 👍👍
290 is well and I love it I'm not looking forward to upgrading to a newer cheaper made song in the future that's for sure I'm going to make sure all 290 stays running strong FYI do the muffler mod thank me later LOL
Also note that using the chain brake when idling with it on for anymore then needed will melt those plastic caged bearings, melt plastic case around the brake band, change the temper in your clutch springs also. I did a 2 part series on a ms171 that had this happen to, and have a couple ms170s on the shelf from customers who did the same thing. There are aftermarket options for steel caged clutch bearings also. I never use the stihl plastic caged ones anymore for those reasons
Well, I guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend! Thanks for another clear and complete video.
Thanks for another great video. You were the first and by far the best small engine repairman I subscribed to . Keep up the great work. 👍
I never ever knew this and I try to look after my gear as best I can
I like the stihl design for the clutch, easy to clean up.
Hi Dony, greetings from Down Under. Thanks for the 291 advice. I have a fairly new one and will be checking the bearing from now on. I also have a Stihl 010 from the early ‘80’s. It is still going strong. I can’t help thinking they are not made as well now.
Oh dear. Thank you for great tips! I happen to have a 390 (and 026 Super) and will check on these now.
Great tip. I have a 291 & I'll make sure to do this maintenance regularly. 👍 Thanks
Good information. Many people neglect these little things that make a big difference in longevity of their saw.
It is hard to understand why manufacturers make something they know is going to get beat on so cheap, and ask a pretty penny for it out of the box.
Great video. You’re right. They don’t make ‘em like they used to. Thanks for the tips!
When I've done this, I notice a difference for the better in performance. But I used standard axel grease- not sure if that's the best option... Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks for sharing this vital information. I checked my bearing today and it was needing grease. Without this video I would never have known to check….until it was too late. Note to Stihl: Please change to a metal cased roller bearing not the plastic version.
Same plastic cage on camshafts of the Harley Twin Cam and Evo. Most owners replace with Torrington steel cage so I wonder if the same could be done on the saws? Hate to admit but in this case the plastic cage beaing held together as crank wore down.
thanks for the good advice. We have an old Farmboss 29, and a new MS661. I did encounter a worn out bearing, it was gone. patched it up with a new bearing and some lube.
The old saying "They don't make them like they used to" is SO true. For just about everything.
Also on the ms194 to check under the recoil for pom prons it is common for them to be by the coil if you don't check you will get the cylinder hot same on the ms201tcm
Thanks for the heads up. I have the same plastic cage roller bearing design on my MS250 that I purchased new last year. Just packed mine with low temp lithium grease, great tip thanks!
Great tip. I must check my one out
I have not greased it up to this point.
Thanks, Bearing was in need of more grease, but we’re good on wear. Great tips!
Thank you for the great maintenance tip. I am new to the chain saw game. Have learned a lot from you. I have always taken care of my equipment, but this is another level which I am happy to start doing. Saving me money and having my machines run at their top potential is key!
Thanks again
How often is Thais recommend ? I just checked my 2017 261 of course bearing dry ... it had little play but after greasing was snug agin so I guess I’m good I prob don’t put more than 30h on since ...
used shell 22 greas it’s a air plain grease for like -60 to 240 c or so
Excellent Advice Mate! I'm off to the shed to grease my Stihl BEFORE I use it again. Thank you from NZ.
Well now this is a interesting video and I already knew about this. I have always done routine maintenance on my sprocket bearings, but this is definitely good information for people that didn't even know that this little bearing existed.
Only somebody who works on these saws knows the real deal on what wears out and how to prevent it...great tip ...👍
my buddies that work at stihl dealers noticed the same problem
Brilliant! MS 362s do this too and if ignored, the rocking of the clutch drum on worn bearings and on the worn crank stresses the E-clip and its groove causing wear and the whole drum, sprocket and chain sometimes makes a bid for freedom out of the side of the clutch cover. Over 4 years I have consigned nine 362s to parts for one customer who runs a big saw fleet. The saws are excellent, robust and reliable and earn the money, but they get worked hard and maintenance just does not seem to happen out on site.... 1&2 series pro and semi-pro Husqvarnas had a greasing drilling in the end of the crank and had less issues. Without this, the clutch drum bearing just does not seem to get enough lube from chain oil alone.
Thank you for the maintenance tip Dony! I just checked the parts diagram for both my baby Poulan and my Chinese 038 clone (don't judge me...lol) and they both have this arrangement.
That's the 1st thing I did, too, on my 2 Poulans. You are right, there is no roller bearing. Guess that's one of the reasons that they sell for $130 vs $300 &up for Stihl & Husq.
@@jjparody8257 Yes. Instead of a nice roller bearing, the little Poulan has a bearing sleeve pressed into the clutch drum. 😒Disposable versus rebuildable. Even more reason for me to clean and lube it I imagine.
! It's really very simple I was a Sthil man for forty years now I run nothing but Huskies, no more problems !
I’ve got a 391 so this information in greatly appreciated!! Awesome! Thank you Dony!!👍🔥
Actually, that plastic bearing cage is somewhat designed as a sacrificial component. Grease it every 50 hours/season and it will last almost forever . But as owners generally don't perform grease maintenance, a stronger metal bearing cage would rapidly grind down the crankshaft causing that saw to be srapped prematurely. As Donny said, changing the bearing cage makes economic sense, changing the crankshaft doesn't !
Daniel the MAN
@@georgedavall9449 Flattery will get you nowhere. LOL !
@@danielrobert7181 Ha Ha I appreciated your comment is all. I wont push it! LOL!
Great video and good advice. I currently maintain and repair power equipment such as chainsaws and cut-off saws for the fire dpt and I saw something in this video that never occured to me before. At 2:33 you explain that the handheld grease tool (which I have that exact same one) can be used on the shaft to grease the bearing, and that not every saw has that.
Question: Do you have a short list of saws that do have that grease application feature on the shaft? My department primarily uses MS 460s, MS 660s, MS 661Cs, and MS 462Cs. I'm looking closely at an MS 660 that I have in my shop and it has that hole in the shaft. However, it doesn't seem like there's anywhere for the grease to go. I'm guessing the only purpose that hole serves on this saw is to keep a puller centered if you're messing with the main bearings for some reason.
Hope you're still making vids because I'll be watching them. Thanks.
Thanks, good videos. Very helpful information. Do have anything on replacing chain brake on STIHL MS291 releasing the tension on the two springs tools best used to do so. Than put everything back together.
You could repair the crankshaft using a speed sleeve, e.g. SKF speedi sleeve, if you can find a suitable dimension. They are 11 thousands thick.
Thanks for another great video. Does the same advice apply to a 031 saw?
Great tip Don, I have two older Stihls , curious to see if they have the metal roller cage. Eric.
My 025 has plastic!
some do
One of my saws is a 1984 038. Any idea when Stihl changed to plastic bearings? My other 2 saws are later vintage 015, I'm guessing the smaller saws are probably plastic bearings.
Chainsaw clutch bearings being greased around the world. Good job Donny! Keep it up.
Thanks Dony, I have a MS180 and It was on my todo list but I didn't know about the plastic bearing, it's kind of ridiculous that to save 1$ a company would design something like that. It looks like a trend now to make short videos, not sure why but I like the concept.
Thanks for posting the video. My chainsaw is a stihl 361 from 2002. I will check to see how similar it is to the 291 or 391.
This is surprising.
In my experience, that bearing is totally still 99% of the time because it only spins when the saw is idling. When cutting, and the clutch is engaged, the bearing doesn't turn.
Nonetheless, I keep mine clean and lubed, but I'm thinking some of Dony's customers must 1) completely ignore basic cleaning and lube and 2) let their saws idle for long periods of time.
Exactly my thoughts.
Sorry but that is wrong, the bearing spinns the whole time when the saw is running. But the good thing is that you can buy those metal ones. I dont know if you in America can but we in Germany can.
Greetings
@@maxmustermann2841 Think once more.
At high RPMs, the crankshaft, clutch shoe assembly, and clutch housing all turn together as one. When the clutch is engaged that bearing is still.
When the the motor idles, the crankshaft continues to rotate (slowly) along with the shoes, but the clutch housing is still. Hence, the crankshaft spins inside the clutch housing. This is what the bearing is needed for.
LOL...though I do agree with you that the bearing "spins"; it's just spinning in a stationary state in concert with the crankshaft, shoes, and clutch drum. It's basically going along for the ride.
Maybe that's what you were referring to.
It’s like a automotive clutch throw out bearing
This video was really helpful. I have always taken out the clutch drum and the roller bearing to blow that area out. Can the Oregon grease gun you showed be used on the Stihl 261? Thanks -
Servicing your saw after heavy use for next use or user is key . That’s what was taught at a chainsaw servicing and usage seminar the guys went to. Line up the clutch drum to your oiler lever also on those Stihls .And watch that you don’t flick the c clip across the room ( ask me how I know this) Clean , bar and chain maintenance and adjustments will make them last for near forever. 10 plus years so far lol
Hi Dony, very useful video...as usual!
Ce roulement ne se voit pas et on le néglige souvent. Le pire est aussi de nettoyer le coté pignon/chaine avec un coup de laveur haute pression , pour gagner du temps. Je l'ai déjà vu. L'eau rentre dans la cloche avec la pression , rien de pire pour accélérer la détérioration du roulement, de l'embrayage, de la pompe à huile...Une catastrophe si la machine est ensuite rangée pour un bon moment, ce qui est souvent le cas.
Je te suis depuis la France avec beaucoup de plaisir!
Michel
A very broad question. A 260 used only a few days a year and occasionally had to work hard but mostly medium work ... Looked after and never abused... Yearly fuel used would not be more than 10 litres...... What would you say could be a life expectancy of this saw? Just a very broad question I know but I've often wondered over the years when might the time be to start thinking about a new one. Its been brilliant for years and its still brilliant today.
I have an MS 291, and we just took it apart. The bearing cage is indeed plastic. Does Stihl or anyone offer a steel caged roller bearing to fit? Will a Pro model roller bearing work? I know that there were fixes for this problem on automotive crankshafts where the oil seal would wear a groove in the crank. There is a ring that can be slid over the crank to cover the groove. I also have a MS 260Pro i bought in 2007. Will it have this problem as well? Thank you for your time and the video.
Omg, I didn't know about this service point, thanks! Hope my older MS260 has the better quality bearing. I think I would have noticed play, so I'm probably good. It'll get greased now.
I had a 261 fail in this way, the bearing let go and destroyed the clutch.....I pay close attention to this bearing now.
I looked at my MS260 today. Indeed it has a plastic sleeved bearing, so it looks like they’ve been using them for awhile, even on the pro level saws. No play or visible wear, but it was dry of any grease, and I couldn’t see any sign of grease ever being there. I suspect it might have been oiled only. I’m so glad I saw this video to catch this before I had issues. I used the red lithium all temperature bearing grease, which should work fine.
And on the ms201 and ms 194 under the recoil cover check for pom Pons especially the ms 194 by the coil
Hi there. We enjoy your videos and and instruction. Thank you.
Question: I saw a video recently about an aftermarket implement for my ms250.
It was a drilling attachment - the bar is removed and this attachment is bolted on.
This would allow me to easily drill one inch holes into the center of a 20 in. dia tree trunk, or so it seems.
What effect would that kind of use have on the saw?
Thanks in advance.
Try to get a piston and cylinder for a ms661 thay are on backorder I work on stihl every day
Good morning DB73, All good points I didn't know about. I need to take out my saws and check this out on mine. Thanks, Ol Budy. U - D - Best 👍
This guy makes me go out to my garage and check this bearing and grease it lol
lol
To late, my clutch drum is hard on the shaft. What preceded the failure is the chain wouldn't run. Removed it and the clutch drum is frozen hard to the clutch mechanism or the clutch shaft. Thanks for the video it might be helpful if I can get that drum of "IF".
Muy buenas recomendaciones y voy a poner en practica tengo una SM660 SERÁ QUÉ SERÍA BUENO HACERLE ESE MANTENIMIENTO ??
DESDE COLOMBIA SUD AMÉRICA
Nice video. Very helpfull. I agree with everything u said. However i seem to find it impossible to keep my saws even remotely clean lol.
First time seeing this, I’ll have to service mine, thanks for the information 👍
Have you ever tried porting saws and moding carbs i swear this can take your channel to a new level
I clean my saw after every use but never new I should check and grease that bearing. Thanks for the video.
So was that one you showed, was it able to be greased with the tool or do you have to do it by hand? I have a MS 251
This stinks. I had no idea about this dony. I just put a brand new Zama carb on my ms250, and didn’t grease this roller bearing. Hopefully it’s not damaged. How often should this be done? Every 3 chains? Every 5th gas tank?
Thank you for the great info, how often do I need to do this maintenance part? thanks.
Great video man , dony do you have a ms200t for sale?
Very valuable bit of advice. Thank you for posting this video. I will be sure to regularly perform this maintenance on the 291 I recently purchased.
Good idea I usually only check when changing our bar and or chain. Ty..
Your the best. I love these vids on maintenance. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Glad you like them!
I have a 391. Thanks for the tip. You are excellent.
What fuel filter should I use for my 1998 year husqvarna 350 chainsaw?
Having that wore out shaft will also cause the saw to not be able to cut straight. Happend to me on a stihl 026
Bearing ground to pieces
Luckily I have my dads old 353 husqvarna from early 2000's. Best saw I have ever seen. It has been abused decades and still runs flawlesly.
I like tihis chainsaw stihl
I'm curious to know if there's a way to weld material back on to the crankshaft in the low areas and then sand or smooth it out to be circular again. Not a problem I have yet, but something the welder in me wonders is possible.
Don't quick I have a 2013 Ms 271 do you think it has the plastic needle cage bearing?
Thanks Don! Great tip! I want to wish you and your family a very Merry Christmas! Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and expertise!
Stihl 241 does have the same plastic cage needle bearing, although it IS a pro saw. It is the next smallest pro saw after 201.
Is that just on the ms291 ms391 or do you have to grease the clutch drum bearing on all makes of chainsaws ? I also try to keep up with the maintenance on my and my dad's saws
Yeah, I'm about to check my 028 WB Stihl after this.
@@bdmenne that reminds me i need to do that to all my saws
yes all saws but the 291/391 crankshaft will wear if not done regularly