The electro magnetic can become permanently/partially magnetized with that high heat and sustained engagement… the heat allows the metal in the magnet to “polarize” at the molecular level… creating magnetic effect once power is removed… Also any form of dragging brakes is absolutely detrimental to your fuel economy… this is a problem that keeps on costing… fixing the issue costs something (generally not very much), ignoring the problem cost money each and every mile you attempt to drive it, and it can only cost more to fix the longer you wait etc. I’m a big fan of your platform and how you give advice at the technical level and with experienced insight. Thank You! Is your website and shop set up for delivery to home orders? I’d prefer to purchase from you etc… i watch a lot of your videos, and if you’re set up for online ordering you could mention it more in video every so often in closing remarks… Thanks again!
Great video. As a side note, I use one of those cheap Harbor Freight infrared thermometers to check my hubs after a few miles just to make sure I'm not overheated. Works great.
Self adjusting brakes i had one warm hub. Backed tension off it corrected heat. Issue i have is tow a lot with very light load. Can only have brake set on a level 2. Otherwise brakes lock up on easy stops and flat spots tires.
I thank you for all the information. I have pulled trailers since the early 90s, we did not do as much maintenance as you recommend. Not saying you are not right.... But never had blown seals, bearing failures, or major brake issues. I do not do it commercially, I guess max a couple thousand miles at most per year. Is breaking down each axle once a year not excessive? There is alot to breaking down each axle, if you do it right. Every single time the seals will need to be replaced... Are the components of yesteryear better then today? I remember replacing the seals and packing the front hubs on my 1970 galaxy 500 only one time and I drove the hell out of it, for example. Even my 1969 f250 highboy only had one front hub packing/seals then complete replacement of everything on all 4 20 years later just because I wanted new brakes and everything new. Again I drove the wheels off that ole truck, (still have it😊)deployed with it to 3 countries... I am not being critical only trying to understand. Thanks for all your videos.
I just picked up a brand new Lamar 14’ dump with 7k axles, one hub of the 4 is heating up beyond normal. Took drum off, adjusted brake preset screw all the way down, made sure bearing was greased etc and put it back on, still overheating- trailer is brand new- any idea?
What would be the scenario for improper wiring? The install video, you mentioned that the 2 wires from the back plate assembly were interchangeable for brake wire and ground wire. Or are you saying the tow vehicle was wired incorrectly?
Was the axle displayed a parrallel stub, I have heard of van parallel axle systems [using timkin bearings] and wondered what he difference to the normal Ford/Holden axle bearing axles. Have you done a video explaining the different bearing/axle types used and the adjustment of both systems ? When I was young people who went offroad used to use "molybdenum disulfide grease" in both cars and trailers in their stub axles. Is this still used?
Hey boss. Love the videos! With a laser-thermometer… do you know how hot is “too hot/overheating”? Or is a better way to be “anything to touch with a bare hand”?
Off topic, but I want to build a 12 or 14k trailer. I have a Tig welder and a 240 volt Mig welder. Which would be best to build it with? I can stick weld with my 200 amp tig, but haven't yet. I've seen people use dual shield mig, but I think I'd have to buy a new mig for that. Thanks in advance! ;)
The electro magnetic can become permanently/partially magnetized with that high heat and sustained engagement… the heat allows the metal in the magnet to “polarize” at the molecular level… creating magnetic effect once power is removed…
Also any form of dragging brakes is absolutely detrimental to your fuel economy… this is a problem that keeps on costing… fixing the issue costs something (generally not very much), ignoring the problem cost money each and every mile you attempt to drive it, and it can only cost more to fix the longer you wait etc.
I’m a big fan of your platform and how you give advice at the technical level and with experienced insight.
Thank You!
Is your website and shop set up for delivery to home orders? I’d prefer to purchase from you etc… i watch a lot of your videos, and if you’re set up for online ordering you could mention it more in video every so often in closing remarks…
Thanks again!
Great video. As a side note, I use one of those cheap Harbor Freight infrared thermometers to check my hubs after a few miles just to make sure I'm not overheated. Works great.
Likewise I do the same; during the trip.
Another very informative video, thanks for not playing music or having a flashy intro, wish more channels were like yours.
Good information
Thanks for watching!
Great tip on using National Seals, truly the real "Trailer Smith"...
How about: Advantage vs Disadvantage use of shock-absorbers?
Thanks for another informative video
Easy to follow.
You're welcome! Thank you for watching!
You are the man. Thank you. Don
Self adjusting brakes i had one warm hub. Backed tension off it corrected heat. Issue i have is tow a lot with very light load. Can only have brake set on a level 2. Otherwise brakes lock up on easy stops and flat spots tires.
you have great videos. I'm new to many of the topics you present for RV's and watching you sure beats learning things the hard way!
I appreciate that! Glad they are helpful! Thank you for watching!
I thank you for all the information. I have pulled trailers since the early 90s, we did not do as much maintenance as you recommend. Not saying you are not right.... But never had blown seals, bearing failures, or major brake issues. I do not do it commercially, I guess max a couple thousand miles at most per year. Is breaking down each axle once a year not excessive? There is alot to breaking down each axle, if you do it right. Every single time the seals will need to be replaced... Are the components of yesteryear better then today? I remember replacing the seals and packing the front hubs on my 1970 galaxy 500 only one time and I drove the hell out of it, for example. Even my 1969 f250 highboy only had one front hub packing/seals then complete replacement of everything on all 4 20 years later just because I wanted new brakes and everything new. Again I drove the wheels off that ole truck, (still have it😊)deployed with it to 3 countries... I am not being critical only trying to understand. Thanks for all your videos.
I just picked up a brand new Lamar 14’ dump with 7k axles, one hub of the 4 is heating up beyond normal. Took drum off, adjusted brake preset screw all the way down, made sure bearing was greased etc and put it back on, still overheating- trailer is brand new- any idea?
Öl😊 thank you for no bs info, sir
You're welcome! Thank you for watching.
@ no, thank you, much needed and appreciated information you share every vid
appreciate the vids bud
Thank you for watching!
Love your videos
Thank you for watching!
What would be the scenario for improper wiring? The install video, you mentioned that the 2 wires from the back plate assembly were interchangeable for brake wire and ground wire. Or are you saying the tow vehicle was wired incorrectly?
Was the axle displayed a parrallel stub, I have heard of van parallel axle systems [using timkin bearings] and wondered what he difference to the normal Ford/Holden axle bearing axles.
Have you done a video explaining the different bearing/axle types used and the adjustment of both systems ?
When I was young people who went offroad used to use "molybdenum disulfide grease" in both cars and trailers in their stub axles. Is this still used?
Hey boss. Love the videos! With a laser-thermometer… do you know how hot is “too hot/overheating”? Or is a better way to be “anything to touch with a bare hand”?
Also, how full to fill the axle/bearings with grease? (Just trying to think of some questions to help myself & others as well)
Off topic, but I want to build a 12 or 14k trailer.
I have a Tig welder and a 240 volt Mig welder.
Which would be best to build it with? I can stick weld with my 200 amp tig, but haven't yet.
I've seen people use dual shield mig, but I think I'd have to buy a new mig for that.
Thanks in advance! ;)
👍👍
Dors National Seal make seals for greased hubs not oil bath.
Sorry, I think testing the brake away switch once a year is a good idea. Maybe you were just talking about using them instead of chocks.