When torquing wheels I follow the pattern for the final torque, then I follow up with the same torque around the wheel going from lug to lug in a circle. I have had multiple times that the pattern will torque to spec the first time and after finish up with the last the first ones will be loose again. I believe this is because the wheel will stick onto the hub slightly on the first pass. I try and torque the wheels weekly or when hooking up to a trailer if I have towed it in a while. The tire pressure is checked every time I hook up to a trailer or weekly depending on if I use it daily or it sits between loads.
I keep the torque wrench in the truck toolbox all the time. Thanks again on a great video! I mark on the vehicle or trailer torque specks somewhere, I CRS anymore.
Torque Test Channel did a video showing that electric impacts have to high of frequency between impacts for torque sticks and would consistently over torque lug nuts.
I recently lost a wheel on my 3500lb utility trailer. I do check my torque of my lug nuts regularly. I had been driving on some rough gravel roads with two atvs in it. Now I check them after driving on rough roads. Before this incident, I never found any loose lug nuts when I checked them.
I just followed the info in my Keystone owner's manual for my 6 lug 15 inch aluminum wheels. I don't remember what it said for the range, but I tend to go in the middle of the range which was 110 foot pounds.
I’m not sure I’d use a torque stick with a typical electric impact gun. I think they’re designed to be used with air (pneumatic) impact wrenches. ALSO, I’d use a lighter than required torque stick, so you can tighten to the correct torque with the torque wrench. If you put the wrench on and it clicks tight away, it’s potentially over torqued.
I have a nüCamp travel trailer with aluminum wheels. My owner's manual gives 110 ft./lbs. as the proper torque which is what I use (yes I did check that they were torqued to 110) but it seems way too high to me.
Love the videos. I have a question for you, I just got my 5th wheel back from a trailer shop to get the bearing repacked. When checking the torque, should I be worried about them being-over torqued? When checking them should I back them off then set torque them to the correct setting? Thanks for the info.
Good topic and good video. I never seen a guide on the starting, mid- and end-torque specs. Is there a rule of thumb there? I just looked thru my manual for a new trailer and did not see any guidance for applying torque in multiple passes.
Although perhaps hard to quantify due to the percentage of steel vs aluminum wheel trailers you have come into your shop for repairs, are you seeing more issues with wheel offs or loose lug nuts ( caught before the wheel managed to break the studs off ) with aluminum wheels over what always had been in the past of steel wheels utilized for trailers ?. With what I have experienced with various vehicles, highway tractors and trailers over the years, aluminum seems to have been the more touchy material with further rotation of the lug nuts required upon a retorque.
Hmmm, the chart you posted shows 120-140 for 16"-steel wheel with 9/16" stud, and you cited 140-175 for this same setup. I have a 24' PJ Superwide with two 7K Dexters, which torque should I use? Yours, or the chart ?
Here is a simple tip...If you have lug nuts on a steel wheel which the stud goes through (simple bolt), you can put an additional lugnut on that stud to create a "jam nut" to keep from becoming loose.
Crazy how many people are too cheap to have their trailer tires/wheels balanced. Its the quickest way to lose a wheel, damage bearings and wear out the springs and shackle bolts.
The only size that requires lube is the 22mm stud. 2 drops of oil on the collar, the stud and the threads on the nut itself. That being said I do spray a small bit of fluid film on the end of the studs before putting lug nuts on our fleet of trailers just due to being in the rust belt. I've had good luck with just torquing to 100 on all 1/2" studs and 150 on the 9/16" studs. None have stretched the threads and don't destroy the treads coming off.
You didn't mention the use of anti-seize, but unless specifically recommended conventional wisdom says to avoid using it, from what I understand. Good presentation, as usual.
Agree, keep them clean and dry and all torque specs are for dry only. Anything added to threads will act as a lubricant and cause you to overtorque your lug nuts.
I tell yall One thing ol boy knows his shit bout trailer!!! Got my sub
When torquing wheels I follow the pattern for the final torque, then I follow up with the same torque around the wheel going from lug to lug in a circle. I have had multiple times that the pattern will torque to spec the first time and after finish up with the last the first ones will be loose again. I believe this is because the wheel will stick onto the hub slightly on the first pass. I try and torque the wheels weekly or when hooking up to a trailer if I have towed it in a while. The tire pressure is checked every time I hook up to a trailer or weekly depending on if I use it daily or it sits between loads.
These videos are absolutely priceless! Thank you so much for creating this content and sharing your wisdom.
I keep the torque wrench in the truck toolbox all the time. Thanks again on a great video! I mark on the vehicle or trailer torque specks somewhere, I CRS anymore.
Torque Test Channel did a video showing that electric impacts have to high of frequency between impacts for torque sticks and would consistently over torque lug nuts.
I recently lost a wheel on my 3500lb utility trailer. I do check my torque of my lug nuts regularly. I had been driving on some rough gravel roads with two atvs in it. Now I check them after driving on rough roads. Before this incident, I never found any loose lug nuts when I checked them.
Did your studs break ?
Thanks for putting this up.. Made me check my trailer manual, and it would seem I've been torquing trailer wheel lug nuts too low.
Great information as always thanks Don
I just followed the info in my Keystone owner's manual for my 6 lug 15 inch aluminum wheels. I don't remember what it said for the range, but I tend to go in the middle of the range which was 110 foot pounds.
I’m not sure I’d use a torque stick with a typical electric impact gun. I think they’re designed to be used with air (pneumatic) impact wrenches. ALSO, I’d use a lighter than required torque stick, so you can tighten to the correct torque with the torque wrench. If you put the wrench on and it clicks tight away, it’s potentially over torqued.
As always very well SAID ! !
My flagstaff camper has a sticker on it saying 100 pound feet
Great information. Good to know that “most” of the time I’m on the same page😅
Thank you for the info. Most helpful.
I have a nüCamp travel trailer with aluminum wheels. My owner's manual gives 110 ft./lbs. as the proper torque which is what I use (yes I did check that they were torqued to 110) but it seems way too high to me.
Good stuff. I'm surprised you didn't mention removing tension off torque wrench.
I do my 5er ev 1k miles, unless wheel has been removed.
Love the videos. I have a question for you, I just got my 5th wheel back from a trailer shop to get the bearing repacked. When checking the torque, should I be worried about them being-over torqued? When checking them should I back them off then set torque them to the correct setting? Thanks for the info.
Do you torque it under the load or up in the air?
Good topic and good video. I never seen a guide on the starting, mid- and end-torque specs. Is there a rule of thumb there? I just looked thru my manual for a new trailer and did not see any guidance for applying torque in multiple passes.
can you put that chart on the cloud for download or printing?
Very informative. Thank you.
Although perhaps hard to quantify due to the percentage of steel vs aluminum wheel trailers you have come into your shop for repairs, are you seeing more issues with wheel offs or loose lug nuts ( caught before the wheel managed to break the studs off ) with aluminum wheels over what always had been in the past of steel wheels utilized for trailers ?. With what I have experienced with various vehicles, highway tractors and trailers over the years, aluminum seems to have been the more touchy material with further rotation of the lug nuts required upon a retorque.
Hmmm, the chart you posted shows 120-140 for 16"-steel wheel with 9/16" stud, and you cited 140-175 for this same setup. I have a 24' PJ Superwide with two 7K Dexters, which torque should I use? Yours, or the chart ?
Here is a simple tip...If you have lug nuts on a steel wheel which the stud goes through (simple bolt), you can put an additional lugnut on that stud to create a "jam nut" to keep from becoming loose.
Thank you
Crazy how many people are too cheap to have their trailer tires/wheels balanced. Its the quickest way to lose a wheel, damage bearings and wear out the springs and shackle bolts.
Dry versus Lubed torque?
The only size that requires lube is the 22mm stud. 2 drops of oil on the collar, the stud and the threads on the nut itself.
That being said I do spray a small bit of fluid film on the end of the studs before putting lug nuts on our fleet of trailers just due to being in the rust belt.
I've had good luck with just torquing to 100 on all 1/2" studs and 150 on the 9/16" studs. None have stretched the threads and don't destroy the treads coming off.
Any torque spec that you see is DRY. If you add anything to the threads this will usually lead to them being over torqued.
ALWAYS torque with lube.
there is a sticker on the frame of my trailer that says 70 ft-lbs
Spec on my truck is 500lbs
I thought wheel torque was rated in ugga duggas?!? 😂
You didn't mention the use of anti-seize, but unless specifically recommended conventional wisdom says to avoid using it, from what I understand. Good presentation, as usual.
Agree, keep them clean and dry and all torque specs are for dry only. Anything added to threads will act as a lubricant and cause you to overtorque your lug nuts.
Thank you Sir. Just the info I needed! Now on to the de-rusting, rust treatment, and a good paint that will last. Tom
@thud9797 you are correct. Using any type of lubricant on the studs actually increases the torque by 15 to 20 %
Great job as always, I always enjoy your videos and how you present them. Keep up the amazing work you do.
@@thud9797 wrong, you are spreading bad information.
You may need to show how to measure the stud, not every one knows how to do it.
Torque sticks aren't made for electric impacts...
Love ur content, thank you. But that ool.. now Im saying it too😂
i just turn til i feel a stud twist, then i back er off 5 %.
Terrible way to do it. If you backed it off it's loose.
@@rtz549 uh he is kidding lol