I already repaired mine. Mine was firing on the reset. Made the adjustments before I found your video.Figured it out for myself. But your method is exactly what I did. And I did not use heat like everyone was saying to do. I know something about working with metal and I know if you overheat it it's going to lose It's temper. Very good straight to the point video exactly what the people need.
Thank God for your comment. I was trying to figure out why my build would fire before the trigger reset. But if I removed my finger after every trigger pull it would reset fine.
I don't think mine was salvageable because it needed to move a LOT. It was part of a build kit from 80% Lowers in a Polymer 80 frame. I was getting three rounds per trigger pull. RSO didn't like that much! I made my half plate and observed marginal engagement with the firing pin. I was super gentle for three cycles, reassembling after each and getting no change. 4th time I was little more aggressive and got some results, maybe 50% engagement. I repeated the process with the same amount of pressure and SNAP! I probably fatigued the metal with so many tries. Dang it! On the plus side I got a lot of practice R&R'ing the trigger group!
You sir, are truly an amazing individual for sharing this. I'd been chasing a trigger breaking upon reset. I had changed so many parts and this fixed it for me, and allowed me to tune it to the parts I wanted to use as well!
Once again thank you for your video, I have the GSX100 frame from the Glock Store same problem, trigger failure to reset, did what you show in your video, first time 185 rounds one one failure to reset and I believe it was me, going again on Saturday 200 + rounds if I get one failure to reset I’ll simply adjust it one more time and test it again. I have the gen 2 pyramid trigger bar and curved trigger.
When you are ready, I can build you an even better trigger system. I have had to replace a bunch of Pyramid triggers over the years. They have some spotty quality control
WOOOOOOO LETS GOOOOO. Brand new build even the gun shop didn’t know what to do. I’m such a gunsmith now after learning this. I can fix any gun now 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Im having a rough time with my first glock build, was getting to much engagement and firing pin wouldnt drop. Lowered it then it wouldnt grab the bar to reset the trigger. I adjusted the connecter to help push the trigger bar down more to help woth over travel but any adjustment either way seems to make the firing pin either stick or not reset
Will poor engagement result in a light strike? 6# striker spring, btw. Adjust cruciform angle up a smidge to get it to pull the striker back further? TYIA
You need to pull the striker (firing pin) out and make sure the spring cups are installed correctly, and you need to make sure the slide had a striker liner installed.
I do not. I don't recommend this to be done by most people unless they have practice with multiple parts. There are videos elsewhere, but I don't plan on my own video on it.
If my firearm is going full auto does that mean theres not enough engagement? I replaced my oem trigger with a zev trigger, the halo 5000, and now if i pull the trigger once it empties the magazine even if i release the trigger. I tested a few times to see if it was a fluke and it was 5/5 magazines that this happened. Ive had a few different triggers in this glock and this is the only time ive ever had an issue like this. Hoping i can fix it because otherwise the trigger feels really nice i just want the reliability and accuracy back. Plus it doesnt feel safe knowing that its not operating as it should and i dont want it to misfire or worse. From my understanding from your video this means i dont have enough cruciform engagement but i want to clarify before i touch anything. Thank you for putting this stuff out there man, very helpful.
I have a dagger with a johny glock trigger in it. Every 5-10 rounds i get a random malfunction, failure to extract sometimes, failure to feed sometimes. When i am able to get rounds off, it feels and shoot amazing. Could this be the problem causing my issue? Ive pretty much went through everything else i know to do.
@@tacticalpontoon I think you are correct. I stripped the slide off a moment ago and the firing pin block was stuck in the down position and required force to for the spring to move freely. Maybe this is happening and there is too much drag and not enough pressure for the trigger bar to move it freely. A spring may be binding up.
@@xxviceslikevipersxx it could be. I would definitely check everything out and make sure it is assembled correctly, not damaged, and functional. ....also, next trigger system, let Tacticalpontoon have a chance to build you something worthy 👊😎
I have to bend 1 of your trigger bars, it's not catching my ZEV striker = should I just buy another trigger bar???? Because I don't wanna break it because I don't live next to you haha😥🤷🏻♂️unbelievable polish job on absolutely everything though❤️🙏🏽
I snapped 2 of these because I didn’t heat it first even taking my time. I would rather heat it up and get it where I need it then the heat treat by quenching it oil the annealing if needed
I have the GSX100 frame from the Glock Store, the triggers run with no problem in my Gen 3 19, I had a Glock armory check it out, he told me it’s the sear, but he doesn’t want to adjust the sear, it will dry fire with no problem, but with live ammo, it will not reset 100% of the time so the trigger spring is installed correctly, do you think it’s the Angel or the frame
@garysnow3389 I would get a different armorer. One thing that needs to be checked, is the interface with a mag and snap cap installed, because this better replicates the gun in operational condition. When you insert a loaded mag, this slightly lifts up the slide, which changes the interface. Dry fire without a mag will be different than with a mag inserted. What trigger is it? The Glockstore frames I haven't personally worked with because of their iffy quality.
@@tacticalpontoon I ran into a few problems when I swapped connectors to a 3.5lb . Double taps was common. I adjusted a striker lug before and it was binary as well 🤷♂️
@@40CalZiggy I have found some combinations of parts will cause a ton of trouble. Certain aftermarket trigger bars are notorious for this in my experience with some 3.5 connectors, requiring beyond 100% interface.
@@tacticalpontoon alright my bad it doesn’t seem to be pinned anymore at at least on my end. This video is like a year old and you’re still replying to comments that’s a sub
Yes now ordering a new trigger after listening to this 2nd rate Johnny Glock .. he was just smart enough to come up with a cool name and a website and make money off of watching JG videos and regurgitating it
Also, how about trigger bar to safety plunger engagement? Should the trigger bar pass over the plunger, thru the middle? Or is there a magic number like ⅔ is acceptable? Hope this post is comprehendible....😅
I already repaired mine. Mine was firing on the reset. Made the adjustments before I found your video.Figured it out for myself. But your method is exactly what I did. And I did not use heat like everyone was saying to do. I know something about working with metal and I know if you overheat it it's going to lose It's temper. Very good straight to the point video exactly what the people need.
Yes sir....temper is important....also not wasting time, but getting to the point is valuable as well. 👊😎
@@tacticalpontoon Yes, sir. Because time is the fire in which we all burn.
Thank God for your comment. I was trying to figure out why my build would fire before the trigger reset. But if I removed my finger after every trigger pull it would reset fine.
I am here because I’m waiting for my replacement in the mail. Definitely listen on the slow and gentle point. They break very easily
Lol thank you😂
I don't think mine was salvageable because it needed to move a LOT. It was part of a build kit from 80% Lowers in a Polymer 80 frame. I was getting three rounds per trigger pull. RSO didn't like that much! I made my half plate and observed marginal engagement with the firing pin. I was super gentle for three cycles, reassembling after each and getting no change. 4th time I was little more aggressive and got some results, maybe 50% engagement. I repeated the process with the same amount of pressure and SNAP! I probably fatigued the metal with so many tries. Dang it! On the plus side I got a lot of practice R&R'ing the trigger group!
You sir, are truly an amazing individual for sharing this. I'd been chasing a trigger breaking upon reset. I had changed so many parts and this fixed it for me, and allowed me to tune it to the parts I wanted to use as well!
Absolutely my pleasure. Glad to help
Thank you for making this video. My cr920 is like I installed a new trigger.
@@bfonfield1534 you are very welcome
Thank you soooo much again for this video seriously helped me
Once again thank you for your video, I have the GSX100 frame from the Glock Store same problem, trigger failure to reset, did what you show in your video, first time 185 rounds one one failure to reset and I believe it was me, going again on Saturday 200 + rounds if I get one failure to reset I’ll simply adjust it one more time and test it again. I have the gen 2 pyramid trigger bar and curved trigger.
When you are ready, I can build you an even better trigger system. I have had to replace a bunch of Pyramid triggers over the years. They have some spotty quality control
Great informational video for a green leaf like me. Straight to the point and no fluffing 😉
I was tired of long winded videos on this, so I made this one that is straight to the point.
WOOOOOOO LETS GOOOOO. Brand new build even the gun shop didn’t know what to do. I’m such a gunsmith now after learning this. I can fix any gun now 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
You need to send them a link to this...because this is a necessary step for any place that does any work on Glocks
Great video my friend
Im having a rough time with my first glock build, was getting to much engagement and firing pin wouldnt drop. Lowered it then it wouldnt grab the bar to reset the trigger. I adjusted the connecter to help push the trigger bar down more to help woth over travel but any adjustment either way seems to make the firing pin either stick or not reset
What trigger components do you have? Some aftermarket parts can cause issues as well.
Is this something that can be dialed in with stock glock triggers to improve them? Or is this specific to your upgraded triggers?
This can definitely be applied to any Glock trigger to improve thr break quality or safety.
Will poor engagement result in a light strike? 6# striker spring, btw. Adjust cruciform angle up a smidge to get it to pull the striker back further? TYIA
Not likely, especially with a 6lb spring....there sounds like more going on if you are having light primer strikes with that spring.
I’m having a problem on my p80 g26 where the trigger can break and the firing pen won’t even come out sometimes any help
You need to pull the striker (firing pin) out and make sure the spring cups are installed correctly, and you need to make sure the slide had a striker liner installed.
Are gen 4 trigger bars in gen 3 frames, a solid upgrade for simply keepin things oem? To run the dimple bar, or not, is the question, lol
It works. It might lighten the trigger about 4ounces or so.
Do you have any videos where you stone the rear (sear end) of the cruciform?
I do not. I don't recommend this to be done by most people unless they have practice with multiple parts. There are videos elsewhere, but I don't plan on my own video on it.
If my firearm is going full auto does that mean theres not enough engagement?
I replaced my oem trigger with a zev trigger, the halo 5000, and now if i pull the trigger once it empties the magazine even if i release the trigger. I tested a few times to see if it was a fluke and it was 5/5 magazines that this happened.
Ive had a few different triggers in this glock and this is the only time ive ever had an issue like this.
Hoping i can fix it because otherwise the trigger feels really nice i just want the reliability and accuracy back.
Plus it doesnt feel safe knowing that its not operating as it should and i dont want it to misfire or worse.
From my understanding from your video this means i dont have enough cruciform engagement but i want to clarify before i touch anything.
Thank you for putting this stuff out there man, very helpful.
Yes, you need more engagement.
Sounds like a free bonus upgrade
That’s incorrect it’s 2/3 or 66.6% to 100%, it’s right in the Glock armorers manual.
2/3's it is. I double checked. Thanks for the clarification.
Thank you
I have a dagger with a johny glock trigger in it. Every 5-10 rounds i get a random malfunction, failure to extract sometimes, failure to feed sometimes. When i am able to get rounds off, it feels and shoot amazing. Could this be the problem causing my issue? Ive pretty much went through everything else i know to do.
That doesn't sound trigger related. I would look at your extractor install, or verify which ejector you have installed.
@@tacticalpontoon I think you are correct. I stripped the slide off a moment ago and the firing pin block was stuck in the down position and required force to for the spring to move freely. Maybe this is happening and there is too much drag and not enough pressure for the trigger bar to move it freely. A spring may be binding up.
@@xxviceslikevipersxx it could be. I would definitely check everything out and make sure it is assembled correctly, not damaged, and functional. ....also, next trigger system, let Tacticalpontoon have a chance to build you something worthy 👊😎
I have to bend 1 of your trigger bars, it's not catching my ZEV striker = should I just buy another trigger bar???? Because I don't wanna break it because I don't live next to you haha😥🤷🏻♂️unbelievable polish job on absolutely everything though❤️🙏🏽
Stick to oem strikers
😮by doing this will it reduce the pound of pull?
@@oneloveyessah it can reduce drag before the break
I snapped 2 of these because I didn’t heat it first even taking my time. I would rather heat it up and get it where I need it then the heat treat by quenching it oil the annealing if needed
If it works for you, but I do not find it necessary or recommended.
Hears my problem, it will fire the first round chamber the second round but 70% of the time won’t reset the trigger, do I need more or less.
What is your cruciform at currently? Have you checked your trigger spring to make sure it is vertical in the trigger bar?
I have the GSX100 frame from the Glock Store, the triggers run with no problem in my Gen 3 19, I had a Glock armory check it out, he told me it’s the sear, but he doesn’t want to adjust the sear, it will dry fire with no problem, but with live ammo, it will not reset 100% of the time so the trigger spring is installed correctly, do you think it’s the Angel or the frame
@garysnow3389 I would get a different armorer. One thing that needs to be checked, is the interface with a mag and snap cap installed, because this better replicates the gun in operational condition. When you insert a loaded mag, this slightly lifts up the slide, which changes the interface. Dry fire without a mag will be different than with a mag inserted.
What trigger is it?
The Glockstore frames I haven't personally worked with because of their iffy quality.
@@tacticalpontoon, thank you for your time and info, I’m going to follow your video and do it myself
@@garysnow3389 always glad to help
Was this the way full auto was converted in Glock back in the day?
No
@@tacticalpontoon I ran into a few problems when I swapped connectors to a 3.5lb . Double taps was common. I adjusted a striker lug before and it was binary as well 🤷♂️
@@40CalZiggy I have found some combinations of parts will cause a ton of trouble. Certain aftermarket trigger bars are notorious for this in my experience with some 3.5 connectors, requiring beyond 100% interface.
@@40CalZiggyhow u got your gun to double fire?
can u only use a vice?
It's best to use a vise, and a cheap small vise from harbor freight doesn't take too much room
Pliers will work
@jfannin6036 if you can do it, go for it. A vise will be more effective.
What’s this tool called
Armorers plate...some call it a half plate
Just putting it out there the sear engagement is actually 2/3s or 66%
Yeah, I pinned that correction awhile back.
@@tacticalpontoon alright my bad it doesn’t seem to be pinned anymore at at least on my end. This video is like a year old and you’re still replying to comments that’s a sub
@Stupidguywithguns I will.pin it again and add it into the description. This video is an important one and I use it for people all the time.
I did this to a old trigger bar/ not yours and it freaking broke cheap tin gold trigger bar it was lol
That’s the same reason I’m here
@@squeak350 freaking sucks and is aggravating asf lol
Yes now ordering a new trigger after listening to this 2nd rate Johnny Glock
.. he was just smart enough to come up with a cool name and a website and make money off of watching JG videos and regurgitating it
Well....good luck
Sometimes mine will not reset, sometimes it just wants to go full auto...
Time for a Glock armorers plate and this tip
Also, how about trigger bar to safety plunger engagement? Should the trigger bar pass over the plunger, thru the middle? Or is there a magic number like ⅔ is acceptable? Hope this post is comprehendible....😅
Gave ya a follow btw 👍
If it activates the plunger, you are good. They usually ride off center.
Great page btw 👍
@@sidewayzmike thank you 👊😎