I just wanted to say thank you for providing such a clear and comprehensive instruction on how to do this. As a complete newbie, I found this very helpful.
@@DigitalBarbell I am in the process of getting an Outdoors RV 25DVS. I know that I will need a sway bar, but have been very nervous about it as I am somewhat disabled. However, your how to has convinced me that I can handle it.
I think you’re lifting your truck too high off the ground. 1. It’s too much tension on the system. 2. If you aren’t on level ground you run the risk of not having enough weight on the rear truck tires and the whole rig sliding. I agree with other comments to get a bar system with sway control and have a professional install, adjust and teach you how to use. Thanks for posting this and other videos. I enjoy them very much.
Great video and good safety advice. Wouldn't it be better to have some sort of template device to put under the hitch receiver to attain the same consistent height every time? So sorry you had to learn in such of hard way, but thanks for sharing.
First off terribly sorry to hear about your accident, I'm glad you recovered, and it wasn't much worse than it appeared to be. Secondly, thank you so much for making this video, absolutely crucial and vital information across-the-board especially on the safety side.
Viewers, ignore this dangerous advice regarding lifting the truck so high. He is over stressing the ball hitch retainer and over tensioning the WDH. Read your manual!
@digitalbarbell - What this comment is saying, is that you are literally jacking your truck into the air relying on your trailer's ball hitch retainer. Honestly, you should take this video down, this is extremely dangerous.
I always have my X jacks between the two trailer axles tight before mounting or unmounting my E4 weight distribution hitch. I have seen this type of thing and other worse accidents due to people not securing their TT while connecting.
I use air lift bags on my truck suspension and only raise my truck about 3" to put tension on the bars and chains. My truck is level with my trailer, and it pulls fine. My truck is smaller it's a Chevy Colorado pulling a 4400lb trailer, I also added a radiator for the transmission with a PPE Heavy-Duty Automatic Transmission Pan. Your way would scare me to death... =)
Thank you for sharing your experience. I am picking up our trailer in two days and it is coming with a Blue Ox Tow Pro WDH installed. I've seen a lot of excellent reviews on this hitch, quiet, great anti-sway, and easy to set up. Our trailer is only 3,200lbs. with a 400lb. tongue weight so hopefully we will not need as much tension on our set up as you had on yours. In videos that I have watched there is almost no tension on the chain when it is snapped into place. I would try to lift the hitch a bit higher at disconnect than when hooking it up and release all tension on the bars. I will be sure to address this with our dealer when we do our pick up!
You're welcome! I'm sure they will go through the setup and disconnect procedure. You should definitely be able to jiggle the bars when disconnecting to make sure they're nice and safe. Congrats on the tailer!
Hi guys, Ouch! I am glad you are ok. When we unhook the Bumbling Bullet we jiggle the bar, if it moves we know the tension is off. Hubs was scared the first few times releasing the chains. Also my hubs said to always push the wrench away from you. We didn't have that set up with our Little Guy. We have been thinking of upgrading to a 250 someday. Our F150 seems to be towing ok, but now I am worried. Anyway, great video! Be safe out there!
I’m glad that I have the old style EZ-Lift Weight Distribution , it’s so much easier to use and way less complicated . Have used it for more than 30 years on many different trailers with no problems . The secret is to spend a little time on the scale when changing trailers and learn what your axle weights are with a few different links on your chain . ( might want to change a link to add a little weight on the drive axle if you get caught out in snow or ice ) .
I too use the EAZ-Lift system and honestly I really prefer it. I know some people dislike having the external sway bars I honestly prefer it. One thing to note here is that you don't need to fully load the ball to the point the jack lifts off. You just need enough to lock the pin then raise the jack back up again to set the bars, saves time.
absolutely right you don't have to fight with the pulling, you might just have to go1 less link to make it right. does not have to be 8 links. thanks for your video and time.
I have found most people put way too much torque on the WDH. You really shouldn’t be anywhere near lifting the back tires off the ground when installing the bars.
@@DigitalBarbell That’s true. I have Husky Centerline WDH so no chains and I have to jack the backend up to get some torque on the bars. Either way, you don’t need a ton of torque on the bars to get a good towing experience. Nice camper BTW 🤙
I have an ATC Foy hauler. Dealer instructed to have the hitch just barely touching the ball on install & disassembly of the bars. Works like a charm. GMC 2500
When I had a tt I would bring hitch down just about to latch than used bars to pop ball fully into hitch there wasn't much tension at all and worked great to distribute the weight
When I unhook, I press down on the wrench slightly to create tension and then release the pin. You won't be surprised at the force as you are already pressing down on it. Then slowly reduced the tension to remove the chain. I find i have more control of it doing it this way.
Great video. One thing i see the most is people towing to much with a small tow vehicle. 1/2 tons are a great example of that. Even 1/4 ton trucks I see as well. Mine for example is a 2000 Chevrolet S10. Just because I see a S10 can tow between 5900-6400 pounds depending on the configuration of the truck in my opinion is a lot. I took my truck to the scale and weighed it with a full tank and empty. Weight in for a 2000 Chevrolet S10 Extended Cab 2WD 4.3L V6 Automatic at 3,720 pounds. I don't feel comfortable or safe to others on the road who like to cut you off and slam on the brakes for a 3,720 pound truck to stop a 5,900-6,400 pound trailer safety and same goes for these 1/2 trucks. Not how much you can tow, its how much can you stop safely. I feel a 3/4 or 1 ton are perfect trucks for that and I don't mean it has to be a loaded up diesel or something. These newer gas trucks have plenty of power to be towing but just be safe.
Couldn't agree more. Shortly after I made this video we upgraded to an F250. Even though the Airstream was within the "towing limit", the payload was maxed out which wasn't a safe situation. Thanks for watching!
Anyone watching this video should take the time to read the replies. This is a great discussion video where we all can learn something from each other. I used to crank my weight distribution hitch (WSD) to an unsafe tension which is probably why we are seeing a lot of discussions on "front end separation" (FES), There is a lot of great discussions and change in thought process of what we think we have been told and what was really meant as far WSD tension is. I now only use the amount of tension applied when the truck and TT are lowered to apply most of the tension and when I am hooked up, the bars of more than enough tension without being "cranked on", as I used to do. I am very sorry you got hurt. That is a very scary injury and I truly appreciate you sharing your experience and demonstration in this video so we can discuss it and prevent any more injuries and have our WDH tensioned better. Thank you, Brudda. Hope to see you on the road and maybe you can help me sculpt my body like yours 😇
Thanks so much for watching and the thoughtful reply. You make a really great point. I've learned so much in the last year since my accident. Since this video focused so much on what I did wrong I'm planning to make another video just on how to do it correctly, and how WD doesn't fix the situation of a truck that's outmatched by the trailer.
Equalizer Weight Distribution Hitch. I've used the Equalizer 4000 since I bought my rig and it's been amazing. 14 Jayco Octane T26y Toy Hauler attached to 2011 F150. FYI: I would never tow that trailer with any half ton knowing what I know now. New truck 23 F350 dually as we want a bigger trailer.
Another little tip for you, when removing the bars, position the wrench on the other side so that the force of the release is moving the wrench DOWN, not UP! The same is true when you're applying the bars to the system. Also, you can keep testing the force required to lock the bars into place, which might help prevent you from having to lift the truck and trailer so high. Using your method, I would have stopped at least once and tested before raising more. This is an important safety message; thanks for bringing it into focus.....
On my Airstream setup with the Blue Ox, I was instructed by the Dealer to use the seventh chain link and raise the trailer high enough to install and remove the bars without tension.
Same. I took delivery of a new Airstream 27FB International four days ago. Dealer technician was very experienced with the Blue Ox hitch, took all the measurements, made the right calculations and reviewed it all thoroughly with me. I tow with a 2021 F150 Powerboost. I raise the trailer high enough to mount the chains as directed, lock the rotating gear into place, then lower the trailer onto it's full weight. Under load, the sway bars are fairly tight with a slight bend that is visually evident. When unloading while raising the trailer they become slack once unloaded, and that's when I stop raising. I haven't needed to use the wrench either way. Really sorry this happened to the OP but I don't think it is a flaw of the hitch or tool.
Put some leveling blocks (which you should have for your trailer anyway) under your truck's rear tires and you won't need to lift your truck this high. At home I usually use a drop between my driveway and street level. Makes things way easier.
You should only be jacking the truck up a few inches higher than stock suspension height, then put the chain links on to the highest point where you can just barely turn it by hand, then add one more link. It should turn with very little torque required using the bar. Then when you bring it down the trailer should sit level. If you have a properly matched truck to the trailer the truck should also sit level. (Once everything is set up and adjusted correctly you can mark the chain link to use but remember different loads on the trailer could require additional or less links) The purpose of the bars is to distribute weight for braking, not lift the truck and trailer level. The trailer should be level if the hitch height is properly adjusted. To remove the bars you repeat the lifting process. Again it should only be a few inches until the chains become nearly completely loose. The chain should be loose enough that it could be removed by hand, but for safety reasons I never put my fingers in there to remove the chain, I still turn the rotating latch with the bar. Lifting the truck to the point of almost raising the tires off the ground like that will also raise the risk of premature failure of the ball hitch locking mechanism in the tongue of the trailer. Seriously you have those bars way too tight, that trailer frame will be under extreme stress every time it bounces on the highway or if you have to drive up any short steep inclines. The bars should always be applied when the trailer and tow vehicle are level and straight. Removing the bars with the rig on an angle or one of the units is pointing up on a grade can also result in extreme torques when applying or removing the bars.
Good info! It's so weird that the company that makes the WDH (and the dealer that installed it) give the opposite advice. On this setup (we don't have that truck anymore) there is no chance we'd have gotten much tension on the bars if we only raised the truck a few inches before putting the chains on.
@@DigitalBarbell I’ve said my peace, it’s your video so you do you, but I’m telling you that if you have to do that with your truck the hitch might not be adjusted properly and or you had the wrong tow vehicle. I currently have a 21 3500 AT4 and have never had issues towing with my setup I usually only need 7 links. In the past with half tons and cranking those bars up like this I’ve seen my RV frames all fail in the same spots each time. I have been RVing for 24 years and covered all but one shore line on this continent (the arctic, if you don’t count Anchorage). But what do I know you’re the expert.
@@DigitalBarbell yes and I don’t nor have I ever needed to jack the truck up to the point where the trailer is nearly lifting up the back end of my 9000 lb trucks tires off the ground, then apply the chains in such a way that they would be under tension in that current configuration. Then lower the truck to the ground and shift excess weight back onto the trailers frame where it was not designed to handle it. You aren’t just shifting weight from the trailer to the truck, you are shifting weight from the truck to the trailer too. That’s why they are weight distribution bars. Manufacturers such as GD go as far as to state that they will not cover “Damage caused by the tow vehicle hitch, equalizer, stabilizer” I wonder what would happen if I tried this method with my quad on the truck and all loaded up to its max GVWR of 12,000 lbs. I’m sure nothing would happen to the 7800 lb RV, right? I have the very same distribution system you showcased in your video and it has performed fine for me without having to jack the truck up to such an extreme. That is way too much stress on an RVs frame as far as I’m concerned. My previous 2016 Flagstaff required 20 hours of welding on the frame due to damage caused by a distribution bar system. The damage was extensive, right from the front to axels. It overloaded the trailer axles immediately and the combination of a loaded HD truck and bouncing on the road lead to extreme cracking in less than 2 seasons RVing across the USA. But like I said you’re the expert, I’m just some dummy out there with real world experience, I have no skin in this game, I’m not looking for hits likes or subscribes. I’m saying be careful using a DH and use a properly mated tow vehicle for the rig. If one was to run a DH system loaded to the extreme I’d highly advise keeping the trailer and the tow vehicle level at all times, and removing them when reversing.
That Blue Ox wdh system looks dangerous AF! I appreciate the video though so that we all remain aware that these wdh's are under serious pressure. I use the Camping World brand "weight & sway" Trailer Life that has round bar sway bars.
Great video! Thanks for sharing your story! I have a different weight distribution hitch but knowledge is the key to safety. And some of your points ring true even for my setup. Thanks again, your channel looks very interesting. Subbed.
I also had an incident with Blue Ox, but it was only close call. Scenario: rather than truck and trailer in a straight or relatively straight line. I unhooked in a turn. The site prevented me from being straight. I proceeded as usual to raise the tongue as high as possible, or as high as I did when I hooked up. One side released easily, however the other side was under such tension that it threw the wrench into the ground with great force; maybe an inch from my foot. My BO came with the small wrench and I was using a 1/2" breaker bar with socket. Another factor is the Airstream dealer that installed the BO installed 1400# bars when the proper bars should have been 600#. Another problem with the BO is that the chains (both sides) would hang up inside the rotating mechanism and at times, it would be difficult to get the chains loose. Bottom line: I ditched the BO and bought a Hensley. I have also have used an Andersen on other trailers successfully, but you could not give me a Blue Ox.
I have the same WDH make/model for my 2015 Dodge Ram 1500 Crew Cab / 2023 Forest River Surveyor Legend 203 RKLE. The most important aspect is to ensure the trailer jack lifts the rear of the vehicle high enough so when the torsion bars are set in place, there is virtually no/little tension when the chains are mounted and turned into place on the turrets. The same goes for dismount, I forgot a couple of times to jack the truck end sufficiently high and there was so much tension on the chain that it popped/whiplashed back at me. I always have the wrench handle horizontal and my knee/leg pressing the socket head lightly against the turret bolt shape so there's less chance of the socket head slipping off during removal, not during mount. One hand on the handle, one hand turning the release lever. I always make sure my head/eyes/shoulders/elbows are as far away from the chain and its path, I don't crouch close to the turret during mount or dismount in case there's backlash. The second part about proper torsion bar tension is when the trailer is in full tow position, the torsion bars should be slightly / noticeably bent else there is likely insufficient leverage to avoid sway. I put the ninth link (from the end the chain, not from the mount hook loop in the torsion bar) into the turret mount slot. The turret mount slot should be pointing about parallel with the ground, not up nor down else there isn't enough or too much height on the jack/truck for safe chain mounting.
Great video... But I would buy a new hitch!. I use a WeightSafe hitch and my wife does one side of the hook up and I do the other, no problem. Much much safer!
Off topic and a lot of you will probably disagree. I've always been under the impression. If you need load distribution then your engine and transmission are probably too small as well.
I get what you're saying, and I thought that for a long time too. I think the popularity of online forums, and the fact that RV dealers get a kickback for selling WDH's has resulted in a lot of people thinking they "need" one. That being said, they do "work" for helping balance out the weight on your front axle for safety, and some can really help with sway control which has nothing to do with your engine or transmission. You might find this video interesting! th-cam.com/video/2ukso2KLebw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for sharing. The stitches alone cost $5k. The teeth depends on how many. Some people are getting a deal in Mexico for $15k for all porcelain. You have great insurance. Do you mind sharing the name of the insurer? Most have a high premium. This could be another video. Two for one. Help pay for the doctors visit. I don’t have a RV. These little nook and crannies help people decide if they want to invest and what they should invest in!!!
Hey there. When we had the tundra, we just had the weight distribution bars. We’ve since upgraded to a three-quarter ton F250. Still using the blue ox, no airbags.
Getting hurt like that is no joke, should absolutely sell that Blue Ox and go with an Equal-i-zer hitch. WAY faster/easier to hook up, WAY less dangerous as there are no chains under tension, 4 point sway control vs 2 point, and a forged knuckle vs cast.
I agree with plaman. Get rid of that hitch. What a stupid design . I just upgraded to a 37' tt toyhauler and upgraded to the B&W Continuum wdh and love it. Equalizer was also being considered as it is known to be a very good wdh set up but I went with the Continuum for ease of adjustability since my weights will change depending on what toys I put in the garage. It also doesn't have the bars to deal with so hook up and unhooking are so much quicker. Biggest downside is the price but it comes with a lifetime warranty from a great company. Good luck with whatever you decide to do but there are much better wdh's that aren't as dangerous as that one.
@DigitalBarbell Does your hitch offer any sway control? This is right from B&W's faq's for the Continuum hitch. I figured your question would be best answered by them. Yes. The continuum has as much, or more friction sway control built into it as the leading brands, although we prefer the term ‘sway prevention.’ Because our bars are always ‘loaded,’ our friction sway prevention is immediate and continuous (hence, the name Continuum.) This ‘loading’ or ‘stiffness’ can help with handling, but in our opinion, sway control components do little to stop sway once it starts. Over the years that we were developing our weight distribution hitch, we studied sway control in an attempt to design the best system. We studied all of them; 2-point, 4-point, adaptive, self-adjusting, self-centering and all the buzz words the industry had invented. We conducted an experiment with the top WD hitches on the market. We set up a truck and trailer in a warehouse and used air castors under the tires to eliminate the ground friction. We then took readings of the hitch’s resistance to sway, or the force necessary to overcome the friction sway control components of each brand of hitch. We learned that all brands provide some level of sway control, but that it takes very little force to overcome them. Some brands don’t load until the angle of the trailer is 2-4 degrees or more. On a 25-foot trailer, this equates to 3-5 feet, which means your trailer will be significantly outside your lane before it has a chance to be helpful.
I've never heard of anyone lifting their truck and trailer that high. I pretty sure the max should be level trailer to hitch. Those weight distribution hitches were designed mostly for manual trailer jacks.
The only way to create tension on the bars when the truck and trailer is level is to start with the truck above the trailer when the bars are unloaded.
Guys, there's nothing wrong with a Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch. I've been towing a 39' travel trailer for a long time using one and it's been solid and flawless. Seeing how this guy raises his truck off the ground tells me all I need to know about his opinion. You have to understand the mechanics of the Blue Ox and know how to use it correctly.
years ago, my grandfather bought a trailer and they just started with the weight distribution hitch, Reese told him to measure the height of the bumper, then tighten up the bars to the point that the truck is squatting about two inches, that way the bars are not overloaded, and you don't put too much pressure on the front of the trailer, I have seen a lot of trailer videos where the front of the trailer has too much pressure on it from the distribution hitch and warranties won't cover that damage, also just watching the video I would say your bars are over loaded by the bend in them, I have never seen them bent as far as yours are, there is a ton of pressure on them that probably shouldn't be there
You make a good point! We bought the WDH from the Airstream dealer at the same time as the trailer. They installed it and set it up. We've since upgraded to a 3/4 ton truck though.
you have to raise your truck and trailer so high and go to the 9th chain on the Blue Ox because you have a 1/2 ton truck that can't handle the tongue weight and or payload. Your truck mega squats under that load and you are using all of that BlueOx to compensate for it.
With tension bars there's no way to load them without lifting the truck. I've learned how to get set up without having to lift the truck so high now though. th-cam.com/video/6A3ctaa7OmQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=nlSwEkXXyJ6vB1_p
Those forces you create with trailer weight and weight distribution hitch is going to result in one thing. Your Ute's chassis will bend at a point behind cabin in front of tub. This will happen when you go over a hump or ditch ie uneven road surface. Seen that happen to utes many a time. There are so many huge forces at play here. Goodluck.
@DigitalBarbell the blue ox system is great the same as any chain based system really. The reality is most of the "unsafe" claims come from people using tow vehicles unsuitable for the trailer they are towing. The "just send it" crowd are many sadly.
I have a jeep gladiator rubicon and will be pulling a trailer from alaska to texas. The max weight for the jeep is 7000 pounds. I will buy a small trailer with a GVWR of no more than 5000 pounds, that should be safe enough for the little V6 and jeep frame to handle.
I use 4 others brand of Weight distribution hitch. None of them seems so dangerous. I rarely jack my truck past the LEVEL point. None of the weight distribution hitch goes to 9 chain link. Honestly, it is between 3 and 6 depending on the trailer and, sometime, load. In your case, it might be always the same because it is the same trailer and approximate weight. I will have like to see if your truck was 100% level, and so was your trailer/RV. On the farm, we use a measuring tape to check if we have the proper number of link. You should make sure you have the proper setup. I drive sometime on snow and slippery farm road. Under these conditions, I usually drop one or two link to get some traction/braking capability. Too much compensation is also dangerous for stability.
I agree. I have the BO pro, and mine runs at 6 links. I have never heard of anyone going to 9. That is way too much tension on the bar. When I hook up and unhook, I never have to use the wrench unless I am not on level ground (e.g. one side is higher than the other). It sounds like the setup is wrong (or maybe you are not using the correct BO weight rating.
Comment & Question: 1) If at all possible, NEVER push on a lever or wrench. Busted chins and busted knuckles result. You are still in danger in your video. 2) Your preload seems incredibly high. Is that per the hitch manufacturer’s explicit direction? On a different system, I only raise the hitch about 3”, then add some serious grunt on the chains. Your bars are really bent from the high load. One helluva lot of stored energy. You were lucky.
Good advice! The Airstream dealer intalled the WDH on the trailer and walked us through the hookup procedure on delivery. I thought the part about raising the truck was crazy too. When I got popped with the wrench, the truck was up in the air with the bars more straight than they are when fully loaded. Still enough to darn near knock me out and mess up my teeth! Thanks for watching.
I urge you to call your manufacturer’s tech support line. If the company has any merit, their tech will make things really clear. Dealer info is at best ‘hit and miss’.
I had a Blue Ox WD hitch and had an incident with the wrench smashing my knuckles into the bottom of the propane bottle cover. I replace it with an Equalizer hitch. So much easier to both hitch and unhitch. And, the sway control is definitely better.
Been using a Husky Centerline hitch since 2018. These chain based hitches look like a pain (no pun intended). The husky jist uses tension bars. Whats the benefit of the chain based ones? Or is it just a manufacturing design choice?
People like the chain based systems because they can change the weight distribution simply by changing the number of links +/- depending on their current load out. Other systems require changing the hitch head height, which is far more work, especially if you don't have torque wrenches capable of 100s of ft lbs. The weight of my trailer can change by 500+ lbs depending on if I'm out for a weekend or a week requiring adjustments to my hitch.
@@chrisdills5072 it’s an acquired taste 🤣 But in all honesty, we knew nothing about WDH’s when we bought this trailer and airstream pushes the blue ox on you.
Blue ox is not my favorite,but that said,you should have ball up higher on your truck,that way you don't have to raise so high,your adjustments are off
I have been using blue ox hitches for years. The number of links is not the same for every vehicle. Most of the time people set these bars too tight. Weigh the tongue of the trailer and get the correct bars. Do not trust the listed tongue weight of the trailer or what the dealer tells you.
I'm no expert but this looks like too much tongue weight for that truck's suspension. from other vids I've seen they didn't put anywhere near that much tension on the bars.
You make a great point! We upgraded to an F250 shortly after this video. Airstream lists the 27' international @ 850lbs tongue weight which was borderline for the Tundra, but in taking it to a CAT scale, we found that it was more like 1100lbs when fully loaded. Ouch! Thanks for watching! Check out our new video with the F250.
Yea, bars are dumb. Anderson is the hitch to go with. This is a video demonstrating how someone that doesn’t know what they are doing would do it. Truck is way too high. Raising the truck that high without even mentioning wheel chocks will result in a roll away.
@@DigitalBarbell You’re supposed to relieve the tongue weight from your ball hitch to make it easier to chain up your torsion bars, not lift your truck up. If you can’t engage your chains, then you have too much pressure and angle. The improvement in sag should be 50% in front and 50% rear. You need to get on a level surface, drop your trailer on the ball, measure the sag in the rear and the front with a tape measure then adjust to create sag on front and decrease in rear the same amount, that way you know you have even distribution. You need to take it to a weigh scale and see how much weight you have in your front axels. Too much is dangerous, and will destroy your wheel bearings. Look at all the comments….
All distribution hitches have a tool to create the tension. With that tool that hit you in the face, you can put at least 150 foot pounds of torque on each side, then when you lower the tongue on the ball (not from lifting your truck up) you add at least another 400 lbs so then at least 700 pounds is distributed to the front axels of the truck. Your tongue weight on that airstream is about 900 lbs. and your torsion bars should be rated for about 700. Just watch a weight distribution hitch manufacturer video and you will see. Not trying to be a troll here, just trying to help you not get hurt
@@J26-e6g There's no chance of increasing the sag in the front of the truck. Check out my more recent video linked in the description when you have time.
@@DigitalBarbell Yes, it totally does. You can see this when you first load the tongue down on the ball without the weight distributing hitch. Measure the height of the front wheel well before you load it, then after. You will see it come up about an inch or two. Then once you engage the weight distribution hitch properly, you will see the front end go down about 1/2” below your initial, unloaded measurement. You will then also see your rear measurement come up about 1/2 to 1” from the measurement without weight distribution. Each manufacturer will have a setup video that goes over this. Yes, I will watch your other video as well.
No, the 9th link was perfect for that 1/2 ton truck. It just wasn't enough truck for that camper. Here's an updated video: th-cam.com/video/6A3ctaa7OmQ/w-d-xo.html
Really sorry that you got hurt. However there are still many things you are miss leading about that hitch. Every vehicle is different when it comes to how many links to leave between the trunnion bar and the cam lock. The way you are now standing to the side of the hitch and just using your are leaves you in a very precarious position with very little leverage and not much control over the stored energy. Most importantly that hitch is 100 percent the wrong hitch for your set up not to mention very poorly designed. If I was to give you any advice it would be to ditch that entire setup and look into the Reese s cam distribution and anti sway control set up. I wish you well in the future and very glad that your injury wasn't more Sirius and permanent. I wish you well.
I don't really see a way to get that particular distribution hitch to be safe on your rig. The biggest issue with it is that you have those huge propane tanks in the way and that limits the room you have to maneuver around and control the stored energy from the trunnion bars. I guess there are some trailers that that setup might work ok on but anything with a tool box or tanks on the tongue is going to be awkward. Most of the other distribution set ups have the cam lock that positions you to the side of the tongue. The S cam distribution hitch I mentioned gives you weight distribution with the added sway control built right into the hitch. I can't express how much of a difference they make and having a Muchmore pleasurable experience when towing. It will almost eliminate any sway you would get from side winds and or passing semi trucks. Sometimes in starting a new adventure in life you can make the wrong purchase but you're young and have a beautiful family. The last thing you want to do is leave them because of a few hundred dollar mistake. If there is anything I can do to help you all your need to do is ask. We own a small campground and have been RVing for our entire adult life. @@DigitalBarbell
I would Never, Never, have a blue ox hitch. It looks Too Dangerous. I have a Reese WD Hitch, and it works Great. Have been using it for years. Any WD Hitch with chains is a Red Flag for me.
You only need to enough tension to transfer so much weight. Scaling without, then with the tension bars. Do this while loaded as you plan to travel. Juat putting full tension on it can and will cause damage to the trailer. DO NOT do it this way.
@@DigitalBarbell Any scale will do. Find one as soon as you can. You have to take the time to scale as many times as necessary. Also, know your weight limits on tow vehicle and trailer. Almost bet you are exceeding the max weight limits for that tow vehicle and trailer
@@wpgoodsonify We upgraded to an F250 shortly after this video was made. We still use the blue ox, but I'm much better at it now. Check out my newer set up video if you have time. Thanks for watching!
Lifting the truck that high is wrong. Also you can NOT say 9 links for everyone. There is a procedure for proper setup. First you need a level spot like a parking lot. Next you need to tale measurements of the front and rear wheel well openings and record them. This is don without being hitched up. Next hitch up and with the jack retracted retake the measurements. The rear should be about the same with the front about 1/2 inch higher for proper distribution. When correct the equalizer bars should be parallel with the frame. If not correct the ball angle until it is. I have been doing this since 1985....I was a rep for a major manufacturer of campers...and have owned 7 campers. A proper setup should take about 2 hours and don't trust that the dealer did it correctly....most are idiots. I still use the old style Reese trunnion system with dual friction sway control. IMHO it is still the simplest design and the most reliable with infinate adjustments available.
Hey Don! We upgraded to a 3/4 ton truck a few months after that video. Also, it's common the run the blue ox at link 9. The Airstream dealer is actually the one that set it up.
The people building these things are wrong and giving you the wrong instructions. They are putting too much energy in the system. You will end up breaking your truck and trailer
I'd throw that junk hitch away and get an Equalizer 4point sway control hitch. Much easier and has sway control. My wife can hook up all by herself without even breaking a nail 😅😂
That was brutal what happened to you. I've owned a TT since 2007 up until just recently switching to a 5th wheel. The chain setup provide little to no sway control. I started with one similar that had the friction sway control piece that you clipped on to one side and it was knuckle with every semi truck that passed. I switched to an Equalizer brand and it was a totally different experience. Others make similar styles so I'm not promoting them by any means but that style of hitch just simply performs better and is a much simpler design.
Why are you shirtless? I get that your an older in shape man, but are you trying to show off your body while explaining how to hook up a trailer to a WDH? Its just very odd to me. To each their own I suppose.
Looks like a pain in the ass kind of system, get one of these Reese Weight Distribution Kit 49913, so much easier. Also, safety tip, climbing over the hitch is a safety no no, but people do it all the time. I walk around, takes longer but I know I won't trip and fall, or get pinched by a sudden hitch or bar failure.Looks like a lot of sag with that Toyota
I was referring to only the jack system to make the Blue Ox safer but upgrading the entire system is certainly something to consider. We replace the Blue Ox on Airstreams every day.
Gosh! He is so manly for a little fella w/no shirt. We, the general public are growing tired of y'all in the campsites. Yes, we see you... move on please.
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the info , Flex.
😂😂😂🤜🏼🤜🏼🤜🏼
I just wanted to say thank you for providing such a clear and comprehensive instruction on how to do this. As a complete newbie, I found this very helpful.
You're welcome! So glad it was helpful. What camper did you get?
@@DigitalBarbell I am in the process of getting an Outdoors RV 25DVS. I know that I will need a sway bar, but have been very nervous about it as I am somewhat disabled. However, your how to has convinced me that I can handle it.
I think you’re lifting your truck too high off the ground. 1. It’s too much tension on the system. 2. If you aren’t on level ground you run the risk of not having enough weight on the rear truck tires and the whole rig sliding. I agree with other comments to get a bar system with sway control and have a professional install, adjust and teach you how to use. Thanks for posting this and other videos. I enjoy them very much.
Wow....thankfully mine came with a ProPride hitch
Zip tie, brilliant I am totally going to do that. Thank you!
@@sethmkane you’re welcome! We have another trailer/ weight distribution video in the works so be sure to subscribe!
Great video and good safety advice. Wouldn't it be better to have some sort of template device to put under the hitch receiver to attain the same consistent height every time? So sorry you had to learn in such of hard way, but thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Since you’re not always hitching and hitching in the same angle, I’m not sure if that would be possible.
First off terribly sorry to hear about your accident, I'm glad you recovered, and it wasn't much worse than it appeared to be. Secondly, thank you so much for making this video, absolutely crucial and vital information across-the-board especially on the safety side.
Thank you for watching! I'm glad it was helpful. I have another video about how to weigh your truck and trailer if you'd like to subscribe!!
Viewers, ignore this dangerous advice regarding lifting the truck so high. He is over stressing the ball hitch retainer and over tensioning the WDH. Read your manual!
Isn't the load determined by the link used on the chain regardless of the height the truck was at when connected?
Yeah, your trucks owners manual will describe how the hitch should be used.
@@jameshelmkay6764why would the trucks manual mention this specific hitch? 🤦. The hitch has a user manual….
Absolutely
@digitalbarbell - What this comment is saying, is that you are literally jacking your truck into the air relying on your trailer's ball hitch retainer. Honestly, you should take this video down, this is extremely dangerous.
I always have my X jacks between the two trailer axles tight before mounting or unmounting my E4 weight distribution hitch. I have seen this type of thing and other worse accidents due to people not securing their TT while connecting.
Solid point!
I use air lift bags on my truck suspension and only raise my truck about 3" to put tension on the bars and chains. My truck is level with my trailer, and it pulls fine. My truck is smaller it's a Chevy Colorado pulling a 4400lb trailer, I also added a radiator for the transmission with a PPE Heavy-Duty Automatic Transmission Pan. Your way would scare me to death... =)
That’s not a bad idea! No one has mentioned that!
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing your experience. I am picking up our trailer in two days and it is coming with a Blue Ox Tow Pro WDH installed. I've seen a lot of excellent reviews on this hitch, quiet, great anti-sway, and easy to set up. Our trailer is only 3,200lbs. with a 400lb. tongue weight so hopefully we will not need as much tension on our set up as you had on yours. In videos that I have watched there is almost no tension on the chain when it is snapped into place. I would try to lift the hitch a bit higher at disconnect than when hooking it up and release all tension on the bars. I will be sure to address this with our dealer when we do our pick up!
You're welcome! I'm sure they will go through the setup and disconnect procedure. You should definitely be able to jiggle the bars when disconnecting to make sure they're nice and safe. Congrats on the tailer!
I would not even use any system on your setup. A ford ranger could pull it
Hi guys, Ouch! I am glad you are ok. When we unhook the Bumbling Bullet we jiggle the bar, if it moves we know the tension is off. Hubs was scared the first few times releasing the chains. Also my hubs said to always push the wrench away from you. We didn't have that set up with our Little Guy. We have been thinking of upgrading to a 250 someday. Our F150 seems to be towing ok, but now I am worried. Anyway, great video! Be safe out there!
Thanks so much Carolann! You're right about the jiggle the bar technique! You're sure to be safe that way. Have a good day!
Thanks for the tip. Good advice to always stay clear of that bar when you're working with stored potential energy
Yes! Thanks for watching!
Covered a lot of details even the manufacturers and dealers skipped over completely. Thanks!
Thanks for watching! Be sure to check out the updated video linked in the description!
I’m glad that I have the old style EZ-Lift Weight Distribution , it’s so much easier to use and way less complicated . Have used it for more than 30 years on many different trailers with no problems . The secret is to spend a little time on the scale when changing trailers and learn what your axle weights are with a few different links on your chain . ( might want to change a link to add a little weight on the drive axle if you get caught out in snow or ice ) .
Good points! Thanks!
I too use the EAZ-Lift system and honestly I really prefer it. I know some people dislike having the external sway bars I honestly prefer it. One thing to note here is that you don't need to fully load the ball to the point the jack lifts off. You just need enough to lock the pin then raise the jack back up again to set the bars, saves time.
absolutely right you don't have to fight with the pulling, you might just have to go1 less link to make it right. does not have to be 8 links. thanks for your video and time.
I have found most people put way too much torque on the WDH. You really shouldn’t be anywhere near lifting the back tires off the ground when installing the bars.
Doesn't that have more to do with which link on the chain you use vs. how high the truck was?
@@DigitalBarbell That’s true. I have Husky Centerline WDH so no chains and I have to jack the backend up to get some torque on the bars. Either way, you don’t need a ton of torque on the bars to get a good towing experience. Nice camper BTW 🤙
Thanks! We love it too! @@scstinger5
Good video ! But ill stick with my equalizer hitch set up lol !
Thanks for watching! Lots of people love that WDH!
I have an ATC Foy hauler. Dealer instructed to have the hitch just barely touching the ball on install & disassembly of the bars. Works like a charm. GMC 2500
Interesting. Do you have the blue ox?
Yes. I hook up tbe chain on the 6th link. I imagine my truck height has some bearing on this.
When I had a tt I would bring hitch down just about to latch than used bars to pop ball fully into hitch there wasn't much tension at all and worked great to distribute the weight
The clarity of the direction of the “A”s is helpful when connecting the chains. 🎉
Yep! Makes all the difference. Check out my updated video on using the Blue ox too if you have time. 🤜🏼
When I unhook, I press down on the wrench slightly to create tension and then release the pin. You won't be surprised at the force as you are already pressing down on it. Then slowly reduced the tension to remove the chain. I find i have more control of it doing it this way.
That's a great tip! Thank you!
That's a great tip and that's what I learned to do about 5 yrs ago after already using this system for 5 yrs.
Great video. One thing i see the most is people towing to much with a small tow vehicle. 1/2 tons are a great example of that. Even 1/4 ton trucks I see as well. Mine for example is a 2000 Chevrolet S10. Just because I see a S10 can tow between 5900-6400 pounds depending on the configuration of the truck in my opinion is a lot. I took my truck to the scale and weighed it with a full tank and empty. Weight in for a 2000 Chevrolet S10 Extended Cab 2WD 4.3L V6 Automatic at 3,720 pounds. I don't feel comfortable or safe to others on the road who like to cut you off and slam on the brakes for a 3,720 pound truck to stop a 5,900-6,400 pound trailer safety and same goes for these 1/2 trucks. Not how much you can tow, its how much can you stop safely. I feel a 3/4 or 1 ton are perfect trucks for that and I don't mean it has to be a loaded up diesel or something. These newer gas trucks have plenty of power to be towing but just be safe.
Couldn't agree more. Shortly after I made this video we upgraded to an F250. Even though the Airstream was within the "towing limit", the payload was maxed out which wasn't a safe situation. Thanks for watching!
All the Blue Ox hitches are bottom of the line kits. Upgrade to something like the Weigh-Safe. It’s much safer and works better.
Besides it trying to kill me, so far so good with the blue ox 🤣
@@DigitalBarbell hey definitely better than no distribution system!!!
Anyone watching this video should take the time to read the replies. This is a great discussion video where we all can learn something from each other. I used to crank my weight distribution hitch (WSD) to an unsafe tension which is probably why we are seeing a lot of discussions on "front end separation" (FES),
There is a lot of great discussions and change in thought process of what we think we have been told and what was really meant as far WSD tension is. I now only use the amount of tension applied when the truck and TT are lowered to apply most of the tension and when I am hooked up, the bars of more than enough tension without being "cranked on", as I used to do. I am very sorry you got hurt. That is a very scary injury and I truly appreciate you sharing your experience and demonstration in this video so we can discuss it and prevent any more injuries and have our WDH tensioned better. Thank you, Brudda. Hope to see you on the road and maybe you can help me sculpt my body like yours 😇
Thanks so much for watching and the thoughtful reply. You make a really great point. I've learned so much in the last year since my accident. Since this video focused so much on what I did wrong I'm planning to make another video just on how to do it correctly, and how WD doesn't fix the situation of a truck that's outmatched by the trailer.
Equalizer Weight Distribution Hitch. I've used the Equalizer 4000 since I bought my rig and it's been amazing. 14 Jayco Octane T26y Toy Hauler attached to 2011 F150. FYI: I would never tow that trailer with any half ton knowing what I know now. New truck 23 F350 dually as we want a bigger trailer.
Yeah, we upgraded to an f250 pretty quickly.
Another little tip for you, when removing the bars, position the wrench on the other side so that the force of the release is moving the wrench DOWN, not UP! The same is true when you're applying the bars to the system. Also, you can keep testing the force required to lock the bars into place, which might help prevent you from having to lift the truck and trailer so high. Using your method, I would have stopped at least once and tested before raising more. This is an important safety message; thanks for bringing it into focus.....
That's a great point! I actually made an updated video and mentioned that. th-cam.com/video/6A3ctaa7OmQ/w-d-xo.html
@@DigitalBarbell Excellent…..nice to share experiences and we all learn. Happy camping!
On my Airstream setup with the Blue Ox, I was instructed by the Dealer to use the seventh chain link and raise the trailer high enough to install and remove the bars without tension.
Interesting! What truck and trailer do you have?
I have the 25 FB Flying Cloud and a 2500HD Duramax Chevrolet
.@@DigitalBarbell
Same. I took delivery of a new Airstream 27FB International four days ago. Dealer technician was very experienced with the Blue Ox hitch, took all the measurements, made the right calculations and reviewed it all thoroughly with me. I tow with a 2021 F150 Powerboost. I raise the trailer high enough to mount the chains as directed, lock the rotating gear into place, then lower the trailer onto it's full weight. Under load, the sway bars are fairly tight with a slight bend that is visually evident. When unloading while raising the trailer they become slack once unloaded, and that's when I stop raising. I haven't needed to use the wrench either way. Really sorry this happened to the OP but I don't think it is a flaw of the hitch or tool.
Put some leveling blocks (which you should have for your trailer anyway) under your truck's rear tires and you won't need to lift your truck this high. At home I usually use a drop between my driveway and street level. Makes things way easier.
Yep! That trick works!
You should only be jacking the truck up a few inches higher than stock suspension height, then put the chain links on to the highest point where you can just barely turn it by hand, then add one more link. It should turn with very little torque required using the bar. Then when you bring it down the trailer should sit level. If you have a properly matched truck to the trailer the truck should also sit level. (Once everything is set up and adjusted correctly you can mark the chain link to use but remember different loads on the trailer could require additional or less links) The purpose of the bars is to distribute weight for braking, not lift the truck and trailer level. The trailer should be level if the hitch height is properly adjusted.
To remove the bars you repeat the lifting process. Again it should only be a few inches until the chains become nearly completely loose. The chain should be loose enough that it could be removed by hand, but for safety reasons I never put my fingers in there to remove the chain, I still turn the rotating latch with the bar.
Lifting the truck to the point of almost raising the tires off the ground like that will also raise the risk of premature failure of the ball hitch locking mechanism in the tongue of the trailer.
Seriously you have those bars way too tight, that trailer frame will be under extreme stress every time it bounces on the highway or if you have to drive up any short steep inclines.
The bars should always be applied when the trailer and tow vehicle are level and straight. Removing the bars with the rig on an angle or one of the units is pointing up on a grade can also result in extreme torques when applying or removing the bars.
Good info! It's so weird that the company that makes the WDH (and the dealer that installed it) give the opposite advice. On this setup (we don't have that truck anymore) there is no chance we'd have gotten much tension on the bars if we only raised the truck a few inches before putting the chains on.
@@DigitalBarbell I’ve said my peace, it’s your video so you do you, but I’m telling you that if you have to do that with your truck the hitch might not be adjusted properly and or you had the wrong tow vehicle. I currently have a 21 3500 AT4 and have never had issues towing with my setup I usually only need 7 links. In the past with half tons and cranking those bars up like this I’ve seen my RV frames all fail in the same spots each time. I have been RVing for 24 years and covered all but one shore line on this continent (the arctic, if you don’t count Anchorage). But what do I know you’re the expert.
When you raise your truck up a few inches it should release the tension on the chains substantially.
Wouldn't the link on the chain used determine when the tension on the bar is released?@@R3lyc
@@DigitalBarbell yes and I don’t nor have I ever needed to jack the truck up to the point where the trailer is nearly lifting up the back end of my 9000 lb trucks tires off the ground, then apply the chains in such a way that they would be under tension in that current configuration. Then lower the truck to the ground and shift excess weight back onto the trailers frame where it was not designed to handle it. You aren’t just shifting weight from the trailer to the truck, you are shifting weight from the truck to the trailer too. That’s why they are weight distribution bars. Manufacturers such as GD go as far as to state that they will not cover “Damage caused by the tow vehicle hitch, equalizer, stabilizer” I wonder what would happen if I tried this method with my quad on the truck and all loaded up to its max GVWR of 12,000 lbs. I’m sure nothing would happen to the 7800 lb RV, right?
I have the very same distribution system you showcased in your video and it has performed fine for me without having to jack the truck up to such an extreme. That is way too much stress on an RVs frame as far as I’m concerned. My previous 2016 Flagstaff required 20 hours of welding on the frame due to damage caused by a distribution bar system. The damage was extensive, right from the front to axels. It overloaded the trailer axles immediately and the combination of a loaded HD truck and bouncing on the road lead to extreme cracking in less than 2 seasons RVing across the USA.
But like I said you’re the expert, I’m just some dummy out there with real world experience, I have no skin in this game, I’m not looking for hits likes or subscribes. I’m saying be careful using a DH and use a properly mated tow vehicle for the rig. If one was to run a DH system loaded to the extreme I’d highly advise keeping the trailer and the tow vehicle level at all times, and removing them when reversing.
Thabks for taking the time to make this video. Sorry you got hurt, but now we all learn because of it!
Thanks so much 🤜🏼
Great video and thanks so much.
Glad you enjoyed it!
That Blue Ox wdh system looks dangerous AF! I appreciate the video though so that we all remain aware that these wdh's are under serious pressure. I use the Camping World brand "weight & sway" Trailer Life that has round bar sway bars.
There’s a learning curve for sure! After a year with I feel much more confident. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thanks for sharing your story! I have a different weight distribution hitch but knowledge is the key to safety. And some of your points ring true even for my setup. Thanks again, your channel looks very interesting. Subbed.
You're welcome, and thanks for subscribing!
Great information. Thanks. BTW, we had a Liitle Guy Max and upgraded last year to a Flying Cloud like y’all.
Oh nice! We loved ou LGM! Such a great, high quality camper too.
I also had an incident with Blue Ox, but it was only close call. Scenario: rather than truck and trailer in a straight or relatively straight line. I unhooked in a turn. The site prevented me from being straight. I proceeded as usual to raise the tongue as high as possible, or as high as I did when I hooked up. One side released easily, however the other side was under such tension that it threw the wrench into the ground with great force; maybe an inch from my foot. My BO came with the small wrench and I was using a 1/2" breaker bar with socket. Another factor is the Airstream dealer that installed the BO installed 1400# bars when the proper bars should have been 600#. Another problem with the BO is that the chains (both sides) would hang up inside the rotating mechanism and at times, it would be difficult to get the chains loose. Bottom line: I ditched the BO and bought a Hensley. I have also have used an Andersen on other trailers successfully, but you could not give me a Blue Ox.
I’ve heard of that exact thing happening at an angle!
I have the same WDH make/model for my 2015 Dodge Ram 1500 Crew Cab / 2023 Forest River Surveyor Legend 203 RKLE. The most important aspect is to ensure the trailer jack lifts the rear of the vehicle high enough so when the torsion bars are set in place, there is virtually no/little tension when the chains are mounted and turned into place on the turrets. The same goes for dismount, I forgot a couple of times to jack the truck end sufficiently high and there was so much tension on the chain that it popped/whiplashed back at me. I always have the wrench handle horizontal and my knee/leg pressing the socket head lightly against the turret bolt shape so there's less chance of the socket head slipping off during removal, not during mount. One hand on the handle, one hand turning the release lever. I always make sure my head/eyes/shoulders/elbows are as far away from the chain and its path, I don't crouch close to the turret during mount or dismount in case there's backlash.
The second part about proper torsion bar tension is when the trailer is in full tow position, the torsion bars should be slightly / noticeably bent else there is likely insufficient leverage to avoid sway. I put the ninth link (from the end the chain, not from the mount hook loop in the torsion bar) into the turret mount slot. The turret mount slot should be pointing about parallel with the ground, not up nor down else there isn't enough or too much height on the jack/truck for safe chain mounting.
All good advice! Thank you for watching!
Great video... But I would buy a new hitch!. I use a WeightSafe hitch and my wife does one side of the hook up and I do the other, no problem. Much much safer!
I’ll check it out! Is it also a sway control system?
@@DigitalBarbell Yes, it has great sway control. We tow a ORV 280 34' over mountain passes in the PNW with no problem. Ram 2500
I have a reese trunnion weight distribution hitch, I'll keep that over this any day. Thanks for posting this so I don't buy a blue ox system.
You're welcome!
Off topic and a lot of you will probably disagree. I've always been under the impression. If you need load distribution then your engine and transmission are probably too small as well.
I get what you're saying, and I thought that for a long time too. I think the popularity of online forums, and the fact that RV dealers get a kickback for selling WDH's has resulted in a lot of people thinking they "need" one. That being said, they do "work" for helping balance out the weight on your front axle for safety, and some can really help with sway control which has nothing to do with your engine or transmission. You might find this video interesting! th-cam.com/video/2ukso2KLebw/w-d-xo.html
Would using the new B&W weight distribution be better since it doesn’t use bars? Different approach used by B&W.
Good question! Truthfully, I don't know! It looks like a nice system!
He said “ gloves” this helps a lot 🤦🏼
@@Jturnb here to help! 😜
That’s awful. I’m so sorry that happened to you. We used to use the blue ox, but I upgraded that for an equalizer and haven’t looked back.
Thanks Sean! I made a full recovery after a dozen visits to the dentist :)
Equalizer system and you’re good to go. 👍
Seems like a lot of people are a fan!
That whole contraption you call a "blue ox" scares me. I like my simple to set up Reese Hitch. The Reese Hitch came with set up instructions.
It can be dangerous if you aren’t sure how to use it safely!
Thanks for sharing. The stitches alone cost $5k. The teeth depends on how many. Some people are getting a deal in Mexico for $15k for all porcelain. You have great insurance. Do you mind sharing the name of the insurer? Most have a high premium. This could be another video. Two for one. Help pay for the doctors visit. I don’t have a RV. These little nook and crannies help people decide if they want to invest and what they should invest in!!!
Hey there, Shoot me a message on IG and we can chat 👍🏻
Hey, do you also use air bags for your suspension or is the weight distribution hitch sufficient?
Hey there. When we had the tundra, we just had the weight distribution bars. We’ve since upgraded to a three-quarter ton F250. Still using the blue ox, no airbags.
Getting hurt like that is no joke, should absolutely sell that Blue Ox and go with an Equal-i-zer hitch. WAY faster/easier to hook up, WAY less dangerous as there are no chains under tension, 4 point sway control vs 2 point, and a forged knuckle vs cast.
Definitely no joke man! Appreciate the vote for the Equal-i-zer. You're not the only one who likes it! Thanks for watching!
I agree with plaman. Get rid of that hitch. What a stupid design . I just upgraded to a 37' tt toyhauler and upgraded to the B&W Continuum wdh and love it. Equalizer was also being considered as it is known to be a very good wdh set up but I went with the Continuum for ease of adjustability since my weights will change depending on what toys I put in the garage. It also doesn't have the bars to deal with so hook up and unhooking are so much quicker. Biggest downside is the price but it comes with a lifetime warranty from a great company. Good luck with whatever you decide to do but there are much better wdh's that aren't as dangerous as that one.
@@krispy1k I've heard good things about that continuum hitch. Does it have sway control also?
@DigitalBarbell Does your hitch offer any sway control?
This is right from B&W's faq's for the Continuum hitch. I figured your question would be best answered by them.
Yes. The continuum has as much, or more friction sway control built into it as the leading brands, although we prefer the term ‘sway prevention.’ Because our bars are always ‘loaded,’ our friction sway prevention is immediate and continuous (hence, the name Continuum.) This ‘loading’ or ‘stiffness’ can help with handling, but in our opinion, sway control components do little to stop sway once it starts.
Over the years that we were developing our weight distribution hitch, we studied sway control in an attempt to design the best system. We studied all of them; 2-point, 4-point, adaptive, self-adjusting, self-centering and all the buzz words the industry had invented. We conducted an experiment with the top WD hitches on the market.
We set up a truck and trailer in a warehouse and used air castors under the tires to eliminate the ground friction. We then took readings of the hitch’s resistance to sway, or the force necessary to overcome the friction sway control components of each brand of hitch.
We learned that all brands provide some level of sway control, but that it takes very little force to overcome them. Some brands don’t load until the angle of the trailer is 2-4 degrees or more. On a 25-foot trailer, this equates to 3-5 feet, which means your trailer will be significantly outside your lane before it has a chance to be helpful.
@@krispy1k I appreciate it!
Funny not so much; about the same time I did that also. I had 2 stitches and luckily no other damage.... listen up folks it happens SO fast!!
@@danaooley6611 oh my goodness! I’m so sorry it happened to you too! I made an update video a few weeks ago too.
Would it not be easier to measure were the correct height is after the first time?
Do you mean the height of the tongue?
Yes
@@rickrichardson5329 Sometimes the simplest answer is the best! Thanks!
Ez-lift is much better. Once the trailer is locked on the ball. I raise my truck and the bars with fit right in place. No chains and no broken teeth.
No broken teeth is always a bonus! Thanks for watching!
I've never heard of anyone lifting their truck and trailer that high. I pretty sure the max should be level trailer to hitch. Those weight distribution hitches were designed mostly for manual trailer jacks.
The only way to create tension on the bars when the truck and trailer is level is to start with the truck above the trailer when the bars are unloaded.
Guys, there's nothing wrong with a Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch. I've been towing a 39' travel trailer for a long time using one and it's been solid and flawless.
Seeing how this guy raises his truck off the ground tells me all I need to know about his opinion.
You have to understand the mechanics of the Blue Ox and know how to use it correctly.
I don't have anything against the blue-ox. I've learned a lot in the year since I made this video. Check out the one I put out a few weeks ago.
years ago, my grandfather bought a trailer and they just started with the weight distribution hitch, Reese told him to measure the height of the bumper, then tighten up the bars to the point that the truck is squatting about two inches, that way the bars are not overloaded, and you don't put too much pressure on the front of the trailer, I have seen a lot of trailer videos where the front of the trailer has too much pressure on it from the distribution hitch and warranties won't cover that damage, also just watching the video I would say your bars are over loaded by the bend in them, I have never seen them bent as far as yours are, there is a ton of pressure on them that probably shouldn't be there
You make a good point! We bought the WDH from the Airstream dealer at the same time as the trailer. They installed it and set it up. We've since upgraded to a 3/4 ton truck though.
you have to raise your truck and trailer so high and go to the 9th chain on the Blue Ox because you have a 1/2 ton truck that can't handle the tongue weight and or payload. Your truck mega squats under that load and you are using all of that BlueOx to compensate for it.
Yeah the tundra was outmatched for the 850lbs of tongue weight. We upgraded to an f250
Get rid of the old weight distribution system and get a equalizer hitch
You’re not the only one to say that! Is the blue ox an “old” tech?
Not sure thse jacks are built to lift your truck. Just my thought
With tension bars there's no way to load them without lifting the truck. I've learned how to get set up without having to lift the truck so high now though. th-cam.com/video/6A3ctaa7OmQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=nlSwEkXXyJ6vB1_p
Those forces you create with trailer weight and weight distribution hitch is going to result in one thing. Your Ute's chassis will bend at a point behind cabin in front of tub. This will happen when you go over a hump or ditch ie uneven road surface. Seen that happen to utes many a time. There are so many huge forces at play here. Goodluck.
Ute?
That’s a unsafe system I would get a bar system that has sway control on it as well as distribution thanks for sharing
Is the blue ox considered an old style? It also has sway control.
@DigitalBarbell the blue ox system is great the same as any chain based system really. The reality is most of the "unsafe" claims come from people using tow vehicles unsuitable for the trailer they are towing. The "just send it" crowd are many sadly.
I have a jeep gladiator rubicon and will be pulling a trailer from alaska to texas. The max weight for the jeep is 7000 pounds. I will buy a small trailer with a GVWR of no more than 5000 pounds, that should be safe enough for the little V6 and jeep frame to handle.
What’s the payload capacity on the jeep?
I use 4 others brand of Weight distribution hitch. None of them seems so dangerous. I rarely jack my truck past the LEVEL point.
None of the weight distribution hitch goes to 9 chain link. Honestly, it is between 3 and 6 depending on the trailer and, sometime, load. In your case, it might be always the same because it is the same trailer and approximate weight.
I will have like to see if your truck was 100% level, and so was your trailer/RV. On the farm, we use a measuring tape to check if we have the proper number of link.
You should make sure you have the proper setup. I drive sometime on snow and slippery farm road. Under these conditions, I usually drop one or two link to get some traction/braking capability. Too much compensation is also dangerous for stability.
You make some great points! We got a 3/4 ton truck after the accident and are still testing setups.
I agree. I have the BO pro, and mine runs at 6 links. I have never heard of anyone going to 9. That is way too much tension on the bar. When I hook up and unhook, I never have to use the wrench unless I am not on level ground (e.g. one side is higher than the other). It sounds like the setup is wrong (or maybe you are not using the correct BO weight rating.
Comment & Question:
1) If at all possible, NEVER push on a lever or wrench. Busted chins and busted knuckles result. You are still in danger in your video.
2) Your preload seems incredibly high. Is that per the hitch manufacturer’s explicit direction? On a different system, I only raise the hitch about 3”, then add some serious grunt on the chains. Your bars are really bent from the high load. One helluva lot of stored energy. You were lucky.
Good advice! The Airstream dealer intalled the WDH on the trailer and walked us through the hookup procedure on delivery. I thought the part about raising the truck was crazy too. When I got popped with the wrench, the truck was up in the air with the bars more straight than they are when fully loaded. Still enough to darn near knock me out and mess up my teeth! Thanks for watching.
I urge you to call your manufacturer’s tech support line. If the company has any merit, their tech will make things really clear. Dealer info is at best ‘hit and miss’.
Equalizer 4point!
That your favorite WDH?
I had a Blue Ox WD hitch and had an incident with the wrench smashing my knuckles into the bottom of the propane bottle cover. I replace it with an Equalizer hitch. So much easier to both hitch and unhitch. And, the sway control is definitely better.
Been using a Husky Centerline hitch since 2018. These chain based hitches look like a pain (no pun intended). The husky jist uses tension bars. Whats the benefit of the chain based ones? Or is it just a manufacturing design choice?
Good question... I think Airstream is in bed with Blue Ox, so they push them on new Airstream owners like us.
@@DigitalBarbell got ya. Not an airstream customer personally. But check out other hitches. The Husky has been trouble free for us.
People like the chain based systems because they can change the weight distribution simply by changing the number of links +/- depending on their current load out. Other systems require changing the hitch head height, which is far more work, especially if you don't have torque
wrenches capable of 100s of ft lbs. The weight of my trailer can change by 500+ lbs depending on if I'm out for a weekend or a week requiring adjustments to my hitch.
great point! @@zenderxt
I put the wheel on the pop up unhitched it and it rolled down a hill took out a Yorkie and slammed into an airstream. I quit camping.
😜😳😜
i do not like the chain style bars
@@chrisdills5072 it’s an acquired taste 🤣 But in all honesty, we knew nothing about WDH’s when we bought this trailer and airstream pushes the blue ox on you.
That’s why not a fan of that hitch where it rotates the why use equalizer hitch so much more simple and safer
We'd never had a WDH before, and for some reason airstream pushes the Blue Ox units. Lots of people like the equalizer it seems!
Blue ox is not my favorite,but that said,you should have ball up higher on your truck,that way you don't have to raise so high,your adjustments are off
Luckily we upgraded to a 3/4 ton truck
I have been using blue ox hitches for years. The number of links is not the same for every vehicle. Most of the time people set these bars too tight. Weigh the tongue of the trailer and get the correct bars. Do not trust the listed tongue weight of the trailer or what the dealer tells you.
So once you know the tongue weight, how do you decide the chain length?
I'm no expert but this looks like too much tongue weight for that truck's suspension. from other vids I've seen they didn't put anywhere near that much tension on the bars.
You make a great point! We upgraded to an F250 shortly after this video. Airstream lists the 27' international @ 850lbs tongue weight which was borderline for the Tundra, but in taking it to a CAT scale, we found that it was more like 1100lbs when fully loaded. Ouch! Thanks for watching! Check out our new video with the F250.
Yea, bars are dumb. Anderson is the hitch to go with. This is a video demonstrating how someone that doesn’t know what they are doing would do it. Truck is way too high. Raising the truck that high without even mentioning wheel chocks will result in a roll away.
Jesus! Look at how bent his torsion bars are. Way too much pressure. Dude is going to destroy his front wheel bearings
Based on…?
@@DigitalBarbell You’re supposed to relieve the tongue weight from your ball hitch to make it easier to chain up your torsion bars, not lift your truck up. If you can’t engage your chains, then you have too much pressure and angle. The improvement in sag should be 50% in front and 50% rear. You need to get on a level surface, drop your trailer on the ball, measure the sag in the rear and the front with a tape measure then adjust to create sag on front and decrease in rear the same amount, that way you know you have even distribution. You need to take it to a weigh scale and see how much weight you have in your front axels. Too much is dangerous, and will destroy your wheel bearings. Look at all the comments….
All distribution hitches have a tool to create the tension. With that tool that hit you in the face, you can put at least 150 foot pounds of torque on each side, then when you lower the tongue on the ball (not from lifting your truck up) you add at least another 400 lbs so then at least 700 pounds is distributed to the front axels of the truck. Your tongue weight on that airstream is about 900 lbs. and your torsion bars should be rated for about 700. Just watch a weight distribution hitch manufacturer video and you will see. Not trying to be a troll here, just trying to help you not get hurt
@@J26-e6g There's no chance of increasing the sag in the front of the truck. Check out my more recent video linked in the description when you have time.
@@DigitalBarbell Yes, it totally does. You can see this when you first load the tongue down on the ball without the weight distributing hitch. Measure the height of the front wheel well before you load it, then after. You will see it come up about an inch or two. Then once you engage the weight distribution hitch properly, you will see the front end go down about 1/2” below your initial, unloaded measurement. You will then also see your rear measurement come up about 1/2 to 1” from the measurement without weight distribution. Each manufacturer will have a setup video that goes over this. Yes, I will watch your other video as well.
you entirely have way to mush pressure on your weight distribution
No, the 9th link was perfect for that 1/2 ton truck. It just wasn't enough truck for that camper. Here's an updated video: th-cam.com/video/6A3ctaa7OmQ/w-d-xo.html
Really sorry that you got hurt. However there are still many things you are miss leading about that hitch. Every vehicle is different when it comes to how many links to leave between the trunnion bar and the cam lock. The way you are now standing to the side of the hitch and just using your are leaves you in a very precarious position with very little leverage and not much control over the stored energy. Most importantly that hitch is 100 percent the wrong hitch for your set up not to mention very poorly designed. If I was to give you any advice it would be to ditch that entire setup and look into the Reese s cam distribution and anti sway control set up. I wish you well in the future and very glad that your injury wasn't more Sirius and permanent. I wish you well.
Appreciate it! Since I have invested in this, what’s the best way to set it up safely?
I don't really see a way to get that particular distribution hitch to be safe on your rig. The biggest issue with it is that you have those huge propane tanks in the way and that limits the room you have to maneuver around and control the stored energy from the trunnion bars. I guess there are some trailers that that setup might work ok on but anything with a tool box or tanks on the tongue is going to be awkward. Most of the other distribution set ups have the cam lock that positions you to the side of the tongue. The S cam distribution hitch I mentioned gives you weight distribution with the added sway control built right into the hitch. I can't express how much of a difference they make and having a Muchmore pleasurable experience when towing. It will almost eliminate any sway you would get from side winds and or passing semi trucks. Sometimes in starting a new adventure in life you can make the wrong purchase but you're young and have a beautiful family. The last thing you want to do is leave them because of a few hundred dollar mistake. If there is anything I can do to help you all your need to do is ask. We own a small campground and have been RVing for our entire adult life. @@DigitalBarbell
I would Never, Never, have a blue ox hitch. It looks Too Dangerous. I have a Reese WD Hitch, and it works Great. Have been using it for years. Any WD Hitch with chains is a Red Flag for me.
Good deal! We were noobs when we bought the Airstream as far as WDH's and this was the one the dealers push...
No no no…..
I'm glad I own a 5th Wheel. Effortless hookup and disconnect.
I'm sure they have their advantages! Now if Airstream would make one ;)
I would never own this system. To dangerous.
Plenty of other options to choose from!
The probelm started when you lifted your truck so high. It dosent need to be that high to set the hitch up.
How high do you lift?
The higher the truck is raised the less tension on the bars.
I always put my bars ln first.
First before you do what?
You only need to enough tension to transfer so much weight. Scaling without, then with the tension bars. Do this while loaded as you plan to travel. Juat putting full tension on it can and will cause damage to the trailer. DO NOT do it this way.
Good info! Do you have a go to method for the average person to use if they don’t have access to a cat scale?
@@DigitalBarbell Any scale will do. Find one as soon as you can. You have to take the time to scale as many times as necessary. Also, know your weight limits on tow vehicle and trailer. Almost bet you are exceeding the max weight limits for that tow vehicle and trailer
@@wpgoodsonify We upgraded to an F250 shortly after this video was made. We still use the blue ox, but I'm much better at it now. Check out my newer set up video if you have time. Thanks for watching!
@@DigitalBarbell Hope you have safe and enjoyable trips.
@@wpgoodsonify You too sir!
Lifting the truck that high is wrong. Also you can NOT say 9 links for everyone. There is a procedure for proper setup. First you need a level spot like a parking lot. Next you need to tale measurements of the front and rear wheel well openings and record them. This is don without being hitched up. Next hitch up and with the jack retracted retake the measurements. The rear should be about the same with the front about 1/2 inch higher for proper distribution. When correct the equalizer bars should be parallel with the frame. If not correct the ball angle until it is. I have been doing this since 1985....I was a rep for a major manufacturer of campers...and have owned 7 campers. A proper setup should take about 2 hours and don't trust that the dealer did it correctly....most are idiots. I still use the old style Reese trunnion system with dual friction sway control. IMHO it is still the simplest design and the most reliable with infinate adjustments available.
You’re right about the 9th link 👍🏼 When you set up a wdh do you try to spread the lord evenly between the trailer, steer, and drive axles?
@@DigitalBarbell you are concerned that the trailer is as level as possible with the truck loaded as I described. Many videos on TH-cam
You're going to destroy the front ofthat airstream. I suspect that your Toyota is overloaded with that trailer as well
Hey Don! We upgraded to a 3/4 ton truck a few months after that video. Also, it's common the run the blue ox at link 9. The Airstream dealer is actually the one that set it up.
trying to be nice here, but if you are getting up in age, that does not look like a fun thing to hook and unhook
It's not too bad once you get the hang of it. It does make me miss our 5,000lb bumper pull though!
Get an andersen hitch
Noted
The people building these things are wrong and giving you the wrong instructions. They are putting too much energy in the system. You will end up breaking your truck and trailer
Energy in the system?
Notice that im wearing gloves.......lol
Notice that im not wearing a shirt😂
I mean… you’re not wrong!
I'd throw that junk hitch away and get an Equalizer 4point sway control hitch.
Much easier and has sway control.
My wife can hook up all by herself without even breaking a nail 😅😂
Sounds like a keeper James! Both the hitch and the wife!
Blue Ox has sway control too.
Get rid of the old style hitch and replace it one without chains
It’s old?
Sorry you got whacked so hard. You may have saved me from the same. Thank you.
You're very welcome! We have more trailer content coming so be sure to subscribe!
I would never recommend any WDH with a chain.
Any particular reason?
Or maybe because of what happened to me?
That was brutal what happened to you. I've owned a TT since 2007 up until just recently switching to a 5th wheel. The chain setup provide little to no sway control. I started with one similar that had the friction sway control piece that you clipped on to one side and it was knuckle with every semi truck that passed. I switched to an Equalizer brand and it was a totally different experience. Others make similar styles so I'm not promoting them by any means but that style of hitch just simply performs better and is a much simpler design.
@@F450FTW Thanks! I think we'll try a few long trips with the F250 and the blue ox and then make the call.
That's way too high!
Thanks for watching!
Shirt 👕?
Optional in TX
Why are you shirtless? I get that your an older in shape man, but are you trying to show off your body while explaining how to hook up a trailer to a WDH? Its just very odd to me. To each their own I suppose.
Shirts were banned for the summer in our county in TX. Something about the drought!
Well I clicked on it cause all I saw was the shirtless man so guess it’s working for views. Next time wear shorter shorts.
Because he can!
In the summer in Texas It's against common law for dudes to wear a shirt while working around the house, unless you're welding.
AMEN AND AMEN #texasforever@@dangibb1329
Looks like a pain in the ass kind of system, get one of these Reese Weight Distribution Kit 49913, so much easier. Also, safety tip, climbing over the hitch is a safety no no, but people do it all the time. I walk around, takes longer but I know I won't trip and fall, or get pinched by a sudden hitch or bar failure.Looks like a lot of sag with that Toyota
You're right on all accounts! The Tundra was replaced with an F250 not long after :)
If you have to run your hitch that tight your truck is way too small
I actually don't know if we "had to". That's just how the Airstream dealer set it up and showed us how to do it. We upgraded to an F250 recently.
Still doing it wrong
You are putting away too much tension on the bars by lifting the truck so high. Going to bend your frame
Just following the instructions for the WDH...
20 year trucker who has towed just about everything with just about everything. Ive never used a weight distribution hitch and i dont see a point
🤷🏽♂️
Retrofit your weight distribution brackets with ProPride 3P weight distribution jacks and that will never happen again.
Would that take the place of the whole blue ox system Sean?
I was referring to only the jack system to make the Blue Ox safer but upgrading the entire system is certainly something to consider. We replace the Blue Ox on Airstreams every day.
I appreciate it! @@SeanWoodruff
Gosh! He is so manly for a little fella w/no shirt. We, the general public are growing tired of y'all in the campsites. Yes, we see you... move on please.
🤣 Thanks for watching Jim! Safe travels!
Why isn’t he wearing a shirt? Ok, we all know why, but really? This what my 19 year old would do. Maybe.