As one of our viewers pointed out, a weight distributing hitch can end up also shifting some weight from the tongue back onto the trailer's axle(s) depending on teh exact situation. However in our quick and dirty test with a load cell accurate to within 10 pounds, we noticed no rearward weight transfer but it is possible.
I appreciate the follow up, but the linked youtube video shows a signifcant 365 pounds being transferred back to the trailer, with a similar weighted test you used for your video. I will agree that it's probably highly variable, but still, it might be nice to discover and test for exactly what causes a 10 pound difference in one case vs 365 in another. th-cam.com/video/XBZu39pQ8Gg/w-d-xo.html
@@JohnSmith-ev1sm We would need an identical trailer and tow vehicle to replicate their findings, I can only comment on ours. It should also be mentioned that this does not change the recommendation that tongue weight should be 10-15% of trailer weight.
@@AAutoBuyersGuide At the 1:14 minute mark, you have a blow up picture of a weight distribution hitch covering your face while talking. Then, you make it smaller so that your audience can see your mug [face]. Nobody wants to see your ugly mug, or mine for that matter, when talking and showing truck/trailer accessories. I had to pause the video to see all of the weight distribution hitch components. Great video anyways. I did, however, laugh at your 'reasons not to' use a WDH list. That how some truck owners are in my area. Irresponsible people, they are.
It's not that it *can* shift weight back to the trailer axle, it's that it *will* increase the weight on the rear axle--by the laws of physics. A weight "distribution" device is very aptly named as that is exactly what it does. Think of it this way: The more pressure you put on that distribution device, the more weight gets distributed on *both* sides of the fulcrum point. In fact, if you cranked it up hard enough (assuming the device is strong enough and has enough adjustability) you could potentially lift the rear wheels off the ground, in which case, you'd effectively have a bus with a very large front-to-rear wheelbase. Of course, more of the weight would be on the front wheels simply because the center of gravity is toward the front (due to engine and cabin placement mostly). So, maybe you'd have something like a 30/70 weight distribution front/rear. But 30% of the total weight (truck+trailer) is far greater than the trailer weight alone. For example, take a 7,500 lb truck and a 1,500lb trailer = 9k lbs total; with an estimated 30/70 distribution, that would put 2,700 lbs on the trailer's rear axle (1200 lbs extra) in the most extreme distribution example. Of course, nobody would crank up the distribution arms that much, but I'm making a point to help you see how this works. Anyway, with every crank of that distribution device, you'd effectively be increasing your trailer's axle weight from the original 1500 lbs *toward* that maximum (2700 lbs in my example). All I can say is that your test was flawed or the laws of physics are not at play in your part of the world.
Thank you - for speaking clearly and concisely; for not filming yourself with a one-handed camera approach; for not playing music while teaching; for having great graphics and props; and for leaving all the jargon out with which the average viewer may not be familiar. Great video. Maybe in your free time you can explain why the American League has the Designated Hitter rule?!
I wanted to understand how trailer weight distribution works, not just how to set it up, and this is the best explanation I've found after watching 10 TH-cam videos. Well done, thanks!
I am not an experienced tow person and only came here to understand the concept better. I understand it MUCH better when you use the term 'load leveling hitch' than 'weight distribution hitch' and the show and tell description with the 2 metal bars explained it clearly. Thanks!!
Thanks for this video. I am an Engineering Professor and have a homework problem on weight distribution hitches. I recommend to my students that they watch your video for a good explanation on how they work.
Wow! I am thoroughly convinced that we’d been towing wrong or just wee bit unsafe all these years. Very very informative and helpful. Will be towing to Death Valley come this December and will BE USING these hitch tools for added safety and peace of mind for my family. Thank you!!🙏🏻
One of the better videos on the subject. Although not specifically stated, this video implies the idea of weight distribution is between the front and rear axles and not between the tow vehicle and the trailer. I think this is key in understanding the use and purpose of the weight distribution hitch. I also appreciated the overview of the sway bar, when to use it and when not to use it.
Dude, you're the man. This was SO helpful. I've never hauled anything bigger than a small, 6' trailer. We just purchased a truck and will be hauling a travel trailer for the next year, touring the country. I read a few suggestions about these things, and really needed someone to explain how they work to me. You did just that. Thanks again for taking the time to upload this!
13:50 - The "belt and suspenders" approach never hurt anyone! Be aware that you've put the friction anti-sway bar on in reverse order, Alex... and be aware that you should not overtighten them, otherwise they will break! Great video, as always, Alex!
Thanks for telling how it works rather than just what it does! Looked at several other videos and articles and none of them described how it actually works!
good video, great advice about towing with an SUV. I always tow with an Equal-i-zer hitch because the the sway control is built in and I don't need to remove the sway brake to back up or turn tightly. Happy Towing!
It's not often I take time to compliment an educational video, but then it's not often they deserve one. THIS ONE, however is the BEST i've ever seen. Being an engineer type (formerly a telemetry engineer) I figured I should be able to understand how a weight distributing hitch works but never did grasp it till this video. I now understand completely and will certainly use one on my 3500 lb. camper trailer. Thank you Alex.
An important topic overall. When considering to pull any trailer, this is a must. Some manuals point out that it’s a legal obligation and if you don’t, it’s legally called “negligence” and one can be sued without any insurance coverage because thou was being too cheap or too proud or similar and really, “negligent” in the eyes of the law. Also, consider the fact that employing such a weight distribution & sway control hitch (i.e. The Equal-i-zer), you can avoid hurting loved ones or others because your vehicle won’t lose control and worse.
Alex, excellent video. The production value is great. I appreciate the work you put into this. I think I finally understand what WD hitches are all about now!
Thank you for this! You both explained what these are and how they work, but ALSO mentioned why our Land Rover mechanic said to not use one despite basically everywhere else saying we should.
This explanation video is by far superior to the rest of the videos trying to explain it. Others only explain the result of the weight transfer. Your video very nicely explains why and how. Thank you
Minor correction... weight is shifted off the towing vehicle rear wheels to BOTH the tow vehicle front wheels AND to the trailer wheels. This became an issue when I towed a travel trailer with a 3500 lb axel rating.
Correct. And not pointing this out to people can cause smaller trailers with only a single axle to shift more weight over that single axle and that might be undesirable if that axle is already beyond its safe working limit.
This is one of the best videos on TH-cam the explains the mechanics on how WD works. Thanks for the detailed explanation @ Alex. I use the Husky Centerline TS WD system on my 2020 GMC Sierra 1500 when towing a 7K flatbed trailer. Knowing the actual tongue weight for each load out is the key to getting the WD setup properly. I use a Sherman 2,000 lb. tongue weight scale to get the tongue weight measurement for the varying trailer loads, then adjust WD springs accordingly. With WD I can tow comfortably with a full load as the truck/trailer combination is well-balanced.
That was very well done. I purchased a used 20' travel trailer today upgrading from an older, smaller one. The RV tech set it up and showed me how to go through assembly but I didn't understand how it worked. On the ride home, I did notice that my front was pointed correctly, unlike the 500lb lighter trailer I traded in. Assembly is an extra chore but OK if you stay the night without unhitching the trailer.
I bought a travel trailer and was given a weight distribution hitch and those sway bar friction brakes and I had no idea how to use them! Thank you so much for this explanation!!!
I replaced my weight distribution hitch that was similar to yours with a Blue Ox. Blue Ox claims that their hitch prevents sway from occurring in the first place. And indeed, that has been my experience when towing my 7,000 pound travel trailer. In addition it doesn't make any noise after the initial pull, and can be left connected when backing up (even in tight turns). The only downside is that it costs a couple of hundred dollars more than the average WD hitch.
A couple other systems offer the sway control capabilities that Blue Ox does - Husky Centerline comes to mind. What really distinguished the Blue Ox system when I was shopping is the ability to change bars to accommodate radically different hitch weights with the same hitch assembly: 350# to 1500#. Since I carry everything from couches to tractors on my auto hauler, that is a *huge* benefit.
Thanks very much for clearly, concisely, and quickly explaining this. Well done! We had a single-axle travel trailer that I loved when it was parked, but hated towing it to and from. "Had" as in sold it because of that because it would porpoise up-and-down like crazy. It was a 3,500lb trailer that towed okay when completely empty, but when loaded it was just awful. Could only carry a little in the trailer which had to be loaded rear of the trailer axle and everything else had to go in the back of the F150 (with extreme towing package), which wasn't optimal, either. Even the two full propane tanks were too much on the front of the trailer and had to go in the pickup. Using a weight distribution hitch would probably have made the towing much better. So now we're shopping for a new dual-axle travel trailer... and a weight distribution hitch!
These hitches are so underrated. Having all of that extra weight put on the front axle aids so much in steering feel and trailer sway. I recommend the Equalizer WDH with sway control.
A great video, I just bought a caravan and it has a weight distribution hitch however whether this is correct for my vehicle I don't know but will find out. What is needed is to remember that this is actually a physics problem and so working out or having a qualified person to work out the correct hitch is important. Your so spot on about speed, so many people drive a truck thinking it's a car and without thinking tow a trailer and still think they should drive the same way.
Thank you for this video. I've towed lots with various vehicles etc. Buddy bought a camper, to tow behind his trailblazer. Sent puc of camper.. Nice! Pic if camper on his vehicle... i was like ""Dude.. you need an equalizer hitch..." lol Then i finally found your vid to explain it.. thanks! So clear n concise! ❤
This is an excellent video. My only critique is that you should include how weight distributing hitches shouldn't be used with trailers that have hydraulic brakes. That's why they oftentimes are not used in the boating world
Andersen WD hitch with built-in sway control is something to be considered. It has its limitations, but easy to hook up and can do tight turns without the need to disengage the sway control mechanism.
Oh my lord, thank you. I had to go through so many articles saying "here's how a WD hitch works" that only showed what it did without explaining the physics.
Thank you so much for the explanation. I am picking up my new little travel trailer today, they are installing one of these, but I had no idea why I needed it. I've always had motorhomes before, and never pulled a trailer other than a small utility trailer. Now I will have a better understanding when they explain it to me at the dealer!!
Great video and explanation! We recently got our 1st travel trailer 24ft Jayco from a friend of ours, Wright distribution hitch is new for me as my aluminum boat trailer doesn’t need weight distribution very light aluminum boat. Thank you
Very good video. Helped clear up a lot of questions I had concerning weight distribution. One big mistake I noticed though is the way you put the sway control bar on. It's backwards which is why it is horizontal and not vertical. The "silver" end goes on the hitch and the black end on the trailer. You have a right side sway bar so it is mounted on the correct side. Just backasswards.....
REALLY good video. I've seen these, but looking at them couldn't picture how they work. I was actually going to ask a question regarding a smaller load behind a smaller tow vehicle, and by the end you had answered EXACTLY the question I had. Buying one tomorrow. Thanks!
I tow with a Tacoma and am routinely pushing the limits, so anytime I have an unfamiliar load, I hit the closest CAT scale to make sure I have the balance right. One of the factors that makes weight distribution important for compact trucks and other smaller tow vehicles is the relatively short wheelbase. For my Tacoma, simply hitching an empty 2160# auto hauler with 280# of hitch weight takes 120# off my front axle. A couple of months ago I picked up a tractor, could feel the front end a little floaty and unresponsive, and hit the scales. I had not correctly estimated the tension to put on my WD hitch bars, and my front end was down 200#. I was steering more than twice the load of an empty truck with almost 10% less traction on the front axle! With no weight distribution, that would likely have been close to 300# off the front axle, and would not have been safe. Adding tension to the bars brought it back to the regular front axle weight, and it handled well. It also pushed 40# back to the trailer axles, which is super helpful. I had some extra tools with me, and with 560# on the hitch, I was at 5580# on the truck with a 5600# GVWR.
Please make another thorough, detailed instructional video showing us how to mount the weight distribution anti sway hitch to a vehicle like a 2019 Ram 1500 which has the fully automatic self leveling air suspension. Are there any differences and extra things we should be aware of? Safe and happy RVing, God Bless
thank you for emphasizing the need for proper weight distribution, at around 12:00 your bars are adjusted too high of a pitch on the trailer end, i would recommend you point out that the pitch of the draw bar hitch ball angle can be adjusted so the equalizers can sit properly, in your case, the angle should be pointed down a bit so the equalizer bars are more straight; on a side note, the emphasis on properly working/ adjusted trailer brakes, break away switch should be at least mentioned.
Good video. Thanks. Please add the VW Touareg/Porsche Cayenne/ Audi Q7 from '03-'10. The manual specifically says do not use a WDH. Some people do, against OEM recommendations.
You need to consider if the trailer tongue and truck hitch is designed for the loads from the load transfer. Apparently these load leveler devices can result in bent trailer tongues. Look up this issue with Lippert rv frames. Think about what happens going across a larger road dip. The load bars are designed for level road surfaces. They do not have a means to release under excess loading, which leads to frame/tongue damage.
I was hauling firewood one day and the weight of the load in the trailer shifted to the back, and it started fishtailing until I ended up rolling the car and ending up in the creak, By the way the car was a Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. The trailer was a tilt trailer and a little longer behind the axel, so I have to put more weight on the tong, to keep things running straight.
Thank you sir for this I jus bout a camping trailer and have a Tundra and never towed before, looked and looked for a video detailing this took me awhile to find but very grateful I found your video, thank you
Thank you so much, you cleared a doubt that I had that not even technicians at rv places and not even in uhaul knew how to respond: The weight range for weight distribution hitchs. I have a trailer that will have around 560 dry tongue weight, and there is a kit from the husky that is 400 to 600. then 600 to 800. And a similar hitch (a copy may be) at harbour freight that says "up to 1000lbs" I was going to buy the harbour freight one since had great reviews and it costs HALF than husky or curt. I asked arround and all people told me "yeah its ok while you are in less than 1000lbs" But now I understand that must be between a range since those "spring bars" will bend accord and if I use a heavier trailer will go up since they are harder . Or at least thats what I understood hahaha THANKS again
This is a great video. I've rarely seen one of these hitches, and I just thought it was weird. Now I know more and think it's great! Thanks for the concise info!
Great video. Question knowing with any truck and trailer, you cannot turn 90° when backing up, or you will jackknife your trailer into your rear truck fender. How do you know when you reached your limit of turning with the weight distribution hitch on? Will your turning capability stop or could you possibly break a chain or other part?
Another sensible and great explaining video overall Alex. I’ve subscribed long ago and shared about your great TH-cam channel again and again. Keep up the great work.
Thank you for a great introduction to the “weighty” subject for this novice. As background for my question, please consider that I am fussing over the advisability of towing an Airstream Basecamp X, rated at a tongue weight of 450 lbs & a GVWR of 3500 lbs with a 2021 Subaru Outback Premier XT with a tongue weight of 350 lbs & GVWR of 3500 lbs. Questions: 1) Does a class 3 hitch automatically include the hitch levelling feature or must that be added as an option? 2) If added as an option, can it be added sometime after the installation of the hitch? 3) Should one generally expect a trailer brake option to be available for this type of trailer and if so, and once again, could any vehicle based controls be installed some time after the hitch has been installed? Thank you again for a very helpful review. Much appreciated indeed!
Nice video. Would have been even better if you capsule have ran the setup over a set of trucking scales before and after the hitch to show the 3 axle weights for the front, rear, and trailer.
Here in Germany, if you are towing that trailer with that truck, you are allowed to have a maximum tung weight of 180 kg (around 400 lbs). But only if the trailer has air brakes and you fitted an air brake system on the truck. You must also have a commercial driver's license, to be able to drive trailers above 3500 kg (around 7700 lbs). That license is about 3000€ and takes about 25-35 training hours. But it can cost more, depending on your skill. Most people stick to the max of 3500 kg, but even then you need an extra license for that. That license is about 600€ and you have to complete at least 5 training hours. And almost all trailers above 750 kg to 3500kg (1600-7700 lbs) are fitted with overrun type brakes, there are close to none electronic brakes on trailers.
Anything above 3500 kg is almost always transported with LKWs (literally Load force vehicle) with or without trailers. For example Mercedes Atego/Actros/Arocs. As far as I know, there are no WDH for sale in Germany.
My old Dodge has towed many trailers that weighed up to 16,000 lbs on the rear hitch without this setup. Never have I had any issues with the front end feeling light. It normally has 5,500 lbs on the front axle and about 2,500 lbs on the rear axle. It would take more weight than you could safely town on the rear of the truck to lift the front end. It would probably bend the frame first.
depends mostly on the tongue weight and which vehicle. Made a huge difference on my 20' camper with a 1/2 ton Chevy Avalanche. Likely wouldn't have needed it with a 1 ton truck.
May i ask what you 20’ trailers tongue weight is? I just bought a 21’ rv trailer that squats my Tacoma, it has 520# tongue weight. Im afraid to add another 100# hitch as that will put my to tongue weight over the trucks 600# limit. I was going to add helper springs as I have no sway, I just dont like the sag.
what if you have to go uphill steep for a second (not on a paved road) while using that hitch?? does it bind up or lift the rear tires off the ground and stop your forward power?
The headlights pointing too high is a symptom of the real problem. The real reason you want the load distributed back to the front wheels is because the vehicle was designed, tested and certified WITH the full weight on the front axle. That is where up to 85% of your stopping occurs and 100% of your turning. If the front is too light, it is like trying to steer or stop while popping a wheely!
I would like you to show me where Ford states a WDH is required for the 2019-2023 Ranger. Ford's own towing guides show the max trailer weight for the Ranger without WDH at 7,500lb with the tow package. Not saying it's not advised, but it's not required in any documentation from Ford as you stated at about 3:50. I've seen the documented requirement for the F-150 to have one over 5,000lb, another reason I chose the Ranger, the car on my trailer can change a bit and reconfiguring WDH for that every time is a bit or work, if I had a fixed trailer load, say an RV or one dedicated to a single car, I would look into getting a WDH then.
Am I the only one that noticed after he put the bars on and raised the tongue jack that the rear of the truck was squatted like before but somehow in the shot after loading the jeep it was mysteriously raised back up?
Very interesting, thanks for taking the time to discuss that. I've been towing a utility trailer with a Mazda 6 but don't get anywhere near 5k lbs. My local dealer wasn't very helpful when it came time to install the hitch but the frame had holes (and rubbery tape for the interface) already in place so the aftermarket hitch just bolted right on. It was surely designed with other markets in mind where folks tow with cars more often. One thing I've always wondered is why do they recommend putting so much weight onto the hitch? Assuming the connection to the hitch won't let go, wouldn't a weight distribution of around 49% rear and 51% front on the trailer be better? That way you wouldn't put so much stress on the tow vehicle's suspension. Is the extra weight meant to provide more traction for the rear wheels on a truck or is it more of a safety thing for the trailer connection?
ElroyMcDuff there is a short video out there somewhere where they use a toy mustang on a treadmill to show trailer weight distribution. If the weight is too far back, when the trailer starts to sway the rear tires of the vehicle are not planted enough to hold their line. In the case of more weight on the back of the trailer it actually starts to lift the back tires of the tow vehicle off the ground. I’m surprised Alex didn’t mention that with the leveling hitch too. If the chains on the bars are set up too tight it can actually cause trailer sway. There’s definitely some art to setting it up. I’ll go try find that video and post it here, as long as I can find this comment again.
Has anyone asked or commented on how the install is different for a tow vehicle with air suspension. The order of air and wdh setup is super important but not well explained. Could you explain that as well? Thanks and great video!
The weight distribution hitch does add weight to the axle or axles of the trailer. However it is a mechanism to get that straight line pull. The physics require that the weight on the trailer axle does increase. However it is minimal for what you're accomplishing.
The trailer hitch is the load, the rear wheels of the tow vehicle is fulcrum. If that distance doesn't change then you don't change the weight on the rear axle. Unless you count the added weight of the weight distribution hardware.
You haven't created a lever arm, but a force-couple. The bars impart a rotational torque, counter-clockwise as you look at the side profile with the truck to your left. This pitches the bar in your receiver down in front and up in back, causing the vehicle frame to rotate in the same direction, pushing the front end down.
I enjoyed you explanation, very clear and concise. I do have a question, can a weight distribution hitch be used for even smaller SUV's, with a relatively low tow rating, to assist with everything that is described above even for lighter trailers?
LOL Jag and Landrover probably tell you not to use one because they don't have a strong enough uni-body to handle it. You said that weight distribution hitches do not affect the trailer. But they do in fact put load on the trailer frame and axle. Not significant but the force on the spring bars has to be supported by something. Any truck towing a conventional trailer will benefit from a load distribution hitch for the simple fact that it re loads the front axle. Maybe if you have the longest 2500 or 3500 truck the effect may be minimal but anything else should always use it when you hit the recommended weight. Also squat wont be corrected that much with weight distribution. If you have a coil spring rear or light leaf spring you will defiantly want air bags or air shocks.
I tried that type of hitch once did not level the truck or trailer then I decided to go with air lift bags towed level and smoothly and when not having a trailer on truck handle nicely best investment ever made.
Nowadays, 1/2 trucks town 10K is easy, but I always emphasize not pulling but breaking! IMO safety, it's first, and I don't feel comfortable towin more than 7K lbs with a 1/2, a 3/4 has a beefy components abd will handle a LOT better. It's not about your safety only but colaterals too, just to think that 1 mistake can take family lives is not a game to be unsafe out there. My family and other ones are waiting for you and those around you, I encourage you to take the extra safety step and always leave a 30% free weight capacity, and even then, I have seen many accidents. No matter what truck you have, if a deer passes in front or below you, it's enough to create an accident. The USA has many regions, temperatures, and weather, so you are not only to consider weight but those extras too. Be safe out there
As one of our viewers pointed out, a weight distributing hitch can end up also shifting some weight from the tongue back onto the trailer's axle(s) depending on teh exact situation. However in our quick and dirty test with a load cell accurate to within 10 pounds, we noticed no rearward weight transfer but it is possible.
I appreciate the follow up, but the linked youtube video shows a signifcant 365 pounds being transferred back to the trailer, with a similar weighted test you used for your video. I will agree that it's probably highly variable, but still, it might be nice to discover and test for exactly what causes a 10 pound difference in one case vs 365 in another.
th-cam.com/video/XBZu39pQ8Gg/w-d-xo.html
@@JohnSmith-ev1sm We would need an identical trailer and tow vehicle to replicate their findings, I can only comment on ours. It should also be mentioned that this does not change the recommendation that tongue weight should be 10-15% of trailer weight.
@@AAutoBuyersGuide
At the 1:14 minute mark, you have a blow up picture of a weight distribution hitch covering your face while talking. Then, you make it smaller so that your audience can see your mug [face]. Nobody wants to see your ugly mug, or mine for that matter, when talking and showing truck/trailer accessories. I had to pause the video to see all of the weight distribution hitch components. Great video anyways. I did, however, laugh at your 'reasons not to' use a WDH list. That how some truck owners are in my area. Irresponsible people, they are.
@@JohnSmith-ev1sm , Scales and a scientific measuring system used in the video you linked.
It's not that it *can* shift weight back to the trailer axle, it's that it *will* increase the weight on the rear axle--by the laws of physics. A weight "distribution" device is very aptly named as that is exactly what it does. Think of it this way: The more pressure you put on that distribution device, the more weight gets distributed on *both* sides of the fulcrum point. In fact, if you cranked it up hard enough (assuming the device is strong enough and has enough adjustability) you could potentially lift the rear wheels off the ground, in which case, you'd effectively have a bus with a very large front-to-rear wheelbase. Of course, more of the weight would be on the front wheels simply because the center of gravity is toward the front (due to engine and cabin placement mostly). So, maybe you'd have something like a 30/70 weight distribution front/rear. But 30% of the total weight (truck+trailer) is far greater than the trailer weight alone. For example, take a 7,500 lb truck and a 1,500lb trailer = 9k lbs total; with an estimated 30/70 distribution, that would put 2,700 lbs on the trailer's rear axle (1200 lbs extra) in the most extreme distribution example. Of course, nobody would crank up the distribution arms that much, but I'm making a point to help you see how this works. Anyway, with every crank of that distribution device, you'd effectively be increasing your trailer's axle weight from the original 1500 lbs *toward* that maximum (2700 lbs in my example). All I can say is that your test was flawed or the laws of physics are not at play in your part of the world.
Thank you - for speaking clearly and concisely; for not filming yourself with a one-handed camera approach; for not playing music while teaching; for having great graphics and props; and for leaving all the jargon out with which the average viewer may not be familiar. Great video. Maybe in your free time you can explain why the American League has the Designated Hitter rule?!
I wanted to understand how trailer weight distribution works, not just how to set it up, and this is the best explanation I've found after watching 10 TH-cam videos. Well done, thanks!
I am not an experienced tow person and only came here to understand the concept better. I understand it MUCH better when you use the term 'load leveling hitch' than 'weight distribution hitch' and the show and tell description with the 2 metal bars explained it clearly. Thanks!!
Thanks for this video. I am an Engineering Professor and have a homework problem on weight distribution hitches. I recommend to my students that they watch your video for a good explanation on how they work.
Wow! I am thoroughly convinced that we’d been towing wrong or just wee bit unsafe all these years. Very very informative and helpful.
Will be towing to Death Valley come this December and will BE USING these hitch tools for added safety and peace of mind for my family. Thank you!!🙏🏻
One of the better videos on the subject. Although not specifically stated, this video implies the idea of weight distribution is between the front and rear axles and not between the tow vehicle and the trailer. I think this is key in understanding the use and purpose of the weight distribution hitch. I also appreciated the overview of the sway bar, when to use it and when not to use it.
Dude, you're the man. This was SO helpful. I've never hauled anything bigger than a small, 6' trailer. We just purchased a truck and will be hauling a travel trailer for the next year, touring the country. I read a few suggestions about these things, and really needed someone to explain how they work to me. You did just that.
Thanks again for taking the time to upload this!
13:50 - The "belt and suspenders" approach never hurt anyone! Be aware that you've put the friction anti-sway bar on in reverse order, Alex... and be aware that you should not overtighten them, otherwise they will break! Great video, as always, Alex!
I don't tow or even have a trailer, but I always wanted to know distribution hitch worked. Thanks for making a great video.
I'll be sharing this with my family. I've been telling everyone that they need one, but have not been able to explain it as well as you just did 👍
Thanks for telling how it works rather than just what it does! Looked at several other videos and articles and none of them described how it actually works!
Literally the only video that described anything close to how the moment arm works. Could have used a static free body diagram for us enginerds tho.
good video, great advice about towing with an SUV. I always tow with an Equal-i-zer hitch because the the sway control is built in and I don't need to remove the sway brake to back up or turn tightly. Happy Towing!
It's not often I take time to compliment an educational video, but then it's not often they deserve one. THIS ONE, however is the BEST i've ever seen. Being an engineer type (formerly a telemetry engineer) I figured I should be able to understand how a weight distributing hitch works but never did grasp it till this video. I now understand completely and will certainly use one on my 3500 lb. camper trailer. Thank you Alex.
An important topic overall. When considering to pull any trailer, this is a must. Some manuals point out that it’s a legal obligation and if you don’t, it’s legally called “negligence” and one can be sued without any insurance coverage because thou was being too cheap or too proud or similar and really, “negligent” in the eyes of the law. Also, consider the fact that employing such a weight distribution & sway control hitch (i.e. The Equal-i-zer), you can avoid hurting loved ones or others because your vehicle won’t lose control and worse.
Thank you, Alex - for the superbly clear explanation as well as the conciseness of your video and lack of extraneous chatter
Alex, excellent video. The production value is great. I appreciate the work you put into this. I think I finally understand what WD hitches are all about now!
Thank you for this! You both explained what these are and how they work, but ALSO mentioned why our Land Rover mechanic said to not use one despite basically everywhere else saying we should.
This explanation video is by far superior to the rest of the videos trying to explain it. Others only explain the result of the weight transfer. Your video very nicely explains why and how. Thank you
Minor correction... weight is shifted off the towing vehicle rear wheels to BOTH the tow vehicle front wheels AND to the trailer wheels. This became an issue when I towed a travel trailer with a 3500 lb axel rating.
Correct. And not pointing this out to people can cause smaller trailers with only a single axle to shift more weight over that single axle and that might be undesirable if that axle is already beyond its safe working limit.
Fantastic, best explanation I’ve seen by a mile!
This is one of the best videos on TH-cam the explains the mechanics on how WD works. Thanks for the detailed explanation @ Alex. I use the Husky Centerline TS WD system on my 2020 GMC Sierra 1500 when towing a 7K flatbed trailer. Knowing the actual tongue weight for each load out is the key to getting the WD setup properly. I use a Sherman 2,000 lb. tongue weight scale to get the tongue weight measurement for the varying trailer loads, then adjust WD springs accordingly. With WD I can tow comfortably with a full load as the truck/trailer combination is well-balanced.
That was very well done. I purchased a used 20' travel trailer today upgrading from an older, smaller one. The RV tech set it up and showed me how to go through assembly but I didn't understand how it worked. On the ride home, I did notice that my front was pointed correctly, unlike the 500lb lighter trailer I traded in. Assembly is an extra chore but OK if you stay the night without unhitching the trailer.
Thank you! This is one of the most easiest TH-cam channels to understand.
I bought a travel trailer and was given a weight distribution hitch and those sway bar friction brakes and I had no idea how to use them! Thank you so much for this explanation!!!
I replaced my weight distribution hitch that was similar to yours with a Blue Ox. Blue Ox claims that their hitch prevents sway from occurring in the first place. And indeed, that has been my experience when towing my 7,000 pound travel trailer. In addition it doesn't make any noise after the initial pull, and can be left connected when backing up (even in tight turns). The only downside is that it costs a couple of hundred dollars more than the average WD hitch.
A couple other systems offer the sway control capabilities that Blue Ox does - Husky Centerline comes to mind. What really distinguished the Blue Ox system when I was shopping is the ability to change bars to accommodate radically different hitch weights with the same hitch assembly: 350# to 1500#. Since I carry everything from couches to tractors on my auto hauler, that is a *huge* benefit.
Thanks very much for clearly, concisely, and quickly explaining this. Well done!
We had a single-axle travel trailer that I loved when it was parked, but hated towing it to and from. "Had" as in sold it because of that because it would porpoise up-and-down like crazy. It was a 3,500lb trailer that towed okay when completely empty, but when loaded it was just awful. Could only carry a little in the trailer which had to be loaded rear of the trailer axle and everything else had to go in the back of the F150 (with extreme towing package), which wasn't optimal, either. Even the two full propane tanks were too much on the front of the trailer and had to go in the pickup. Using a weight distribution hitch would probably have made the towing much better. So now we're shopping for a new dual-axle travel trailer... and a weight distribution hitch!
Very good video, this explained it better than any other video I've seen yet. Just remember all, no anti-sway when driving in snow or ice.
Best Explanation I have heard In 5 years of towing my Trailer !!
These hitches are so underrated. Having all of that extra weight put on the front axle aids so much in steering feel and trailer sway. I recommend the Equalizer WDH with sway control.
Now this is a very well detailed video. I'm a rookie but now feel more comfortable at towing. Thankyou for this video and keep up the great work!!
A great video, I just bought a caravan and it has a weight distribution hitch however whether this is correct for my vehicle I don't know but will find out.
What is needed is to remember that this is actually a physics problem and so working out or having a qualified person to work out the correct hitch is important.
Your so spot on about speed, so many people drive a truck thinking it's a car and without thinking tow a trailer and still think they should drive the same way.
Thank you for this video. I've towed lots with various vehicles etc. Buddy bought a camper, to tow behind his trailblazer. Sent puc of camper.. Nice! Pic if camper on his vehicle... i was like ""Dude.. you need an equalizer hitch..." lol
Then i finally found your vid to explain it.. thanks! So clear n concise! ❤
Wow TFL didn't even explain it this good because I would of remembered it.
@Benjamin Burkhardt
How so? Please, provide some factual evidence to back up your claim.
@@Sig721Tau chill out
@@Sig721Tau , Alex has appeared in TFL videos.
TFL lacks any mechanical knowledge. He's a computer nerd
SrE. Zzrzrze. Atz
This is an excellent video. My only critique is that you should include how weight distributing hitches shouldn't be used with trailers that have hydraulic brakes. That's why they oftentimes are not used in the boating world
Andersen WD hitch with built-in sway control is something to be considered. It has its limitations, but easy to hook up and can do tight turns without the need to disengage the sway control mechanism.
Searched for a while landed on this video. Hands down, the best video on this topic. Thank you!
Oh my lord, thank you. I had to go through so many articles saying "here's how a WD hitch works" that only showed what it did without explaining the physics.
Thank you so much for the explanation. I am picking up my new little travel trailer today, they are installing one of these, but I had no idea why I needed it. I've always had motorhomes before, and never pulled a trailer other than a small utility trailer. Now I will have a better understanding when they explain it to me at the dealer!!
Great video and explanation! We recently got our 1st travel trailer 24ft Jayco from a friend of ours, Wright distribution hitch is new for me as my aluminum boat trailer doesn’t need weight distribution very light aluminum boat. Thank you
Thank you. You are a gifted explainer. Your cadence and delivery are flawless. Keep up the good work.
Only today came across this vid. I love that you have the Rivian concept image on the shelf behind you.
Nothing fancy, just clear, concise information. Thank you so much
Very good video. Helped clear up a lot of questions I had concerning weight distribution. One big mistake I noticed though is the way you put the sway control bar on. It's backwards which is why it is horizontal and not vertical. The "silver" end goes on the hitch and the black end on the trailer. You have a right side sway bar so it is mounted on the correct side. Just backasswards.....
Thank you for this info I never new this
REALLY good video. I've seen these, but looking at them couldn't picture how they work. I was actually going to ask a question regarding a smaller load behind a smaller tow vehicle, and by the end you had answered EXACTLY the question I had. Buying one tomorrow. Thanks!
I tow with a Tacoma and am routinely pushing the limits, so anytime I have an unfamiliar load, I hit the closest CAT scale to make sure I have the balance right.
One of the factors that makes weight distribution important for compact trucks and other smaller tow vehicles is the relatively short wheelbase. For my Tacoma, simply hitching an empty 2160# auto hauler with 280# of hitch weight takes 120# off my front axle.
A couple of months ago I picked up a tractor, could feel the front end a little floaty and unresponsive, and hit the scales. I had not correctly estimated the tension to put on my WD hitch bars, and my front end was down 200#. I was steering more than twice the load of an empty truck with almost 10% less traction on the front axle! With no weight distribution, that would likely have been close to 300# off the front axle, and would not have been safe.
Adding tension to the bars brought it back to the regular front axle weight, and it handled well. It also pushed 40# back to the trailer axles, which is super helpful. I had some extra tools with me, and with 560# on the hitch, I was at 5580# on the truck with a 5600# GVWR.
Great information! I burned out my shoulder because the truck was laden down driving 900 miles.
Thank you!
I love these kinds of videos, so different from the usual content everyone puts out 👍
Great video, thank you for explaining everything in a clear, concise manner.
I didn't know I needed one, now I do thanks. I didn't know I needed a trailer like yours now I do.....Great presentation.
After watching your video i was surprised that trailer safety products have taken until now to improve. Good job!!
Please make another thorough, detailed instructional video showing us how to mount the weight distribution anti sway hitch to a vehicle like a 2019 Ram 1500 which has the fully automatic self leveling air suspension. Are there any differences and extra things we should be aware of? Safe and happy RVing, God Bless
Just keep your truck shut off while attaching the weight distribution hitch to a trailer.
Aaaaahhhhhh i was wondering how they worked. Very simple and clear. Thanks dude.
thank you for emphasizing the need for proper weight distribution, at around 12:00 your bars are adjusted too high of a pitch on the trailer end, i would recommend you point out that the pitch of the draw bar hitch ball angle can be adjusted so the equalizers can sit properly, in your case, the angle should be pointed down a bit so the equalizer bars are more straight; on a side note, the emphasis on properly working/ adjusted trailer brakes, break away switch should be at least mentioned.
I guess I need @Engineering Explained. You did a good job explaining what it does but not exactly how it works. Like the science behind it.
Best video on the subject I have found, very good and clear info.
Good video. Thanks. Please add the VW Touareg/Porsche Cayenne/ Audi Q7 from '03-'10. The manual specifically says do not use a WDH. Some people do, against OEM recommendations.
You need to consider if the trailer tongue and truck hitch is designed for the loads from the load transfer. Apparently these load leveler devices can result in bent trailer tongues. Look up this issue with Lippert rv frames. Think about what happens going across a larger road dip. The load bars are designed for level road surfaces. They do not have a means to release under excess loading, which leads to frame/tongue damage.
Best explanation I’ve seen. Now I get how these things work. 🇨🇦👍🏼
I was hauling firewood one day and the weight of the load in the trailer shifted to the back, and it started fishtailing until I ended up rolling the car and ending up in the creak, By the way the car was a Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. The trailer was a tilt trailer and a little longer behind the axel, so I have to put more weight on the tong, to keep things running straight.
Excellent video, quick and to the point. Clear and relevant information. Thank you!
Thank you sir for this I jus bout a camping trailer and have a Tundra and never towed before, looked and looked for a video detailing this took me awhile to find but very grateful I found your video,
thank you
Very well done video, I never fully understood the physics involved with these but do now. Thank you very much and keep up the good work!
Thank you so much, you cleared a doubt that I had that not even technicians at rv places and not even in uhaul knew how to respond: The weight range for weight distribution hitchs.
I have a trailer that will have around 560 dry tongue weight, and there is a kit from the husky that is 400 to 600. then 600 to 800. And a similar hitch (a copy may be) at harbour freight that says "up to 1000lbs" I was going to buy the harbour freight one since had great reviews and it costs HALF than husky or curt. I asked arround and all people told me "yeah its ok while you are in less than 1000lbs" But now I understand that must be between a range since those "spring bars" will bend accord and if I use a heavier trailer will go up since they are harder .
Or at least thats what I understood hahaha
THANKS again
I'm a big fan of your channel. Thank you for being informative and honest.
This is a great video. I've rarely seen one of these hitches, and I just thought it was weird. Now I know more and think it's great! Thanks for the concise info!
Great video. Question knowing with any truck and trailer, you cannot turn 90° when backing up, or you will jackknife your trailer into your rear truck fender. How do you know when you reached your limit of turning with the weight distribution hitch on? Will your turning capability stop or could you possibly break a chain or other part?
Thanks for the bonus of the sway control! Wasn't sure if I'd need two or one.
Another sensible and great explaining video overall Alex. I’ve subscribed long ago and shared about your great TH-cam channel again and again. Keep up the great work.
Informative video, concise and with theory and demonstration. Love it. 2 thumbs up
Absolutely excellent video and advise Alex. This is why you are unparalleled. 👍
Thank you for a great introduction to the “weighty” subject for this novice.
As background for my question, please consider that I am fussing over the advisability of towing an Airstream Basecamp X, rated at a tongue weight of 450 lbs & a GVWR of 3500 lbs with a 2021 Subaru Outback Premier XT with a tongue weight of 350 lbs & GVWR of 3500 lbs.
Questions:
1) Does a class 3 hitch automatically include the hitch levelling feature or must that be added as an option?
2) If added as an option, can it be added sometime after the installation of the hitch?
3) Should one generally expect a trailer brake option to be available for this type of trailer and if so, and once again, could any vehicle based controls be installed some time after the hitch has been installed?
Thank you again for a very helpful review. Much appreciated indeed!
Good video. Great and simple explanation of the sometimes over mystified topic.
Nice video. Would have been even better if you capsule have ran the setup over a set of trucking scales before and after the hitch to show the 3 axle weights for the front, rear, and trailer.
I enjoyed watching this video right like that. I was watching it right down there and sometimes right back there.
LOL
Great vid Alex, I finally understand that stuff. Thanx dude.
Excellent video. I learned a lot. Thank you! Very well explained and you very effectively communicated your points. Well done.
great presentation , clear and informative. very good speaker.
Great and well synthesized information about the ins and outs of weight distribution.
Here in Germany, if you are towing that trailer with that truck,
you are allowed to have a maximum tung weight of 180 kg (around 400 lbs).
But only if the trailer has air brakes and you fitted an air brake system on the truck.
You must also have a commercial driver's license, to be able to drive trailers above 3500 kg (around 7700 lbs).
That license is about 3000€ and takes about 25-35 training hours.
But it can cost more, depending on your skill.
Most people stick to the max of 3500 kg, but even then you need an extra license for that.
That license is about 600€ and you have to complete at least 5 training hours.
And almost all trailers above 750 kg to 3500kg (1600-7700 lbs) are fitted with overrun type brakes,
there are close to none electronic brakes on trailers.
Anything above 3500 kg is almost always transported with LKWs (literally Load force vehicle) with or without trailers.
For example Mercedes Atego/Actros/Arocs.
As far as I know, there are no WDH for sale in Germany.
My old Dodge has towed many trailers that weighed up to 16,000 lbs on the rear hitch without this setup. Never have I had any issues with the front end feeling light. It normally has 5,500 lbs on the front axle and about 2,500 lbs on the rear axle. It would take more weight than you could safely town on the rear of the truck to lift the front end. It would probably bend the frame first.
depends mostly on the tongue weight and which vehicle. Made a huge difference on my 20' camper with a 1/2 ton Chevy Avalanche. Likely wouldn't have needed it with a 1 ton truck.
May i ask what you 20’ trailers tongue weight is? I just bought a 21’ rv trailer that squats my Tacoma, it has 520# tongue weight. Im afraid to add another 100# hitch as that will put my to tongue weight over the trucks 600# limit. I was going to add helper springs as I have no sway, I just dont like the sag.
what if you have to go uphill steep for a second (not on a paved road) while using that hitch?? does it bind up or lift the rear tires off the ground and stop your forward power?
Excellent video for a subject I did not know anything about. Great job sir. 🏆
I see a lot of trucks suffering from misaligned headlights due to poor weight distribution. Hopefully more people start to use these
The headlights pointing too high is a symptom of the real problem. The real reason you want the load distributed back to the front wheels is because the vehicle was designed, tested and certified WITH the full weight on the front axle. That is where up to 85% of your stopping occurs and 100% of your turning. If the front is too light, it is like trying to steer or stop while popping a wheely!
Great video Alex! Just the information I was looking for. Appreciate it!
I would like you to show me where Ford states a WDH is required for the 2019-2023 Ranger. Ford's own towing guides show the max trailer weight for the Ranger without WDH at 7,500lb with the tow package. Not saying it's not advised, but it's not required in any documentation from Ford as you stated at about 3:50. I've seen the documented requirement for the F-150 to have one over 5,000lb, another reason I chose the Ranger, the car on my trailer can change a bit and reconfiguring WDH for that every time is a bit or work, if I had a fixed trailer load, say an RV or one dedicated to a single car, I would look into getting a WDH then.
2014 VW Touareg without air suspension says in the manual not to use a weight distributing hitch. FYI.
Am I the only one that noticed after he put the bars on and raised the tongue jack that the rear of the truck was squatted like before but somehow in the shot after loading the jeep it was mysteriously raised back up?
Perhaps he readjusted the hitch after adding the extra weight. I'd assume that you'd want it adjusted with the trailer loaded, not empty.
Very interesting, thanks for taking the time to discuss that. I've been towing a utility trailer with a Mazda 6 but don't get anywhere near 5k lbs. My local dealer wasn't very helpful when it came time to install the hitch but the frame had holes (and rubbery tape for the interface) already in place so the aftermarket hitch just bolted right on. It was surely designed with other markets in mind where folks tow with cars more often.
One thing I've always wondered is why do they recommend putting so much weight onto the hitch? Assuming the connection to the hitch won't let go, wouldn't a weight distribution of around 49% rear and 51% front on the trailer be better? That way you wouldn't put so much stress on the tow vehicle's suspension. Is the extra weight meant to provide more traction for the rear wheels on a truck or is it more of a safety thing for the trailer connection?
ElroyMcDuff there is a short video out there somewhere where they use a toy mustang on a treadmill to show trailer weight distribution. If the weight is too far back, when the trailer starts to sway the rear tires of the vehicle are not planted enough to hold their line. In the case of more weight on the back of the trailer it actually starts to lift the back tires of the tow vehicle off the ground. I’m surprised Alex didn’t mention that with the leveling hitch too. If the chains on the bars are set up too tight it can actually cause trailer sway. There’s definitely some art to setting it up. I’ll go try find that video and post it here, as long as I can find this comment again.
th-cam.com/video/6mW_gzdh6to/w-d-xo.html
Trl wagging the tow vechicle
Has anyone asked or commented on how the install is different for a tow vehicle with air suspension. The order of air and wdh setup is super important but not well explained. Could you explain that as well?
Thanks and great video!
The weight distribution hitch does add weight to the axle or axles of the trailer. However it is a mechanism to get that straight line pull. The physics require that the weight on the trailer axle does increase. However it is minimal for what you're accomplishing.
Finally, i got this. No need to look for another videos. That's it! Thanks for video !!! 👍
The trailer hitch is the load, the rear wheels of the tow vehicle is fulcrum.
If that distance doesn't change then you don't change the weight on the rear axle. Unless you count the added weight of the weight distribution hardware.
Add Honda to the list. They advised against it stating it is worse to set it up incorrectly than to not use one at all.
I'm curious why the hood of both of your vehicles appears to be slightly open? Fantastic video.
You haven't created a lever arm, but a force-couple. The bars impart a rotational torque, counter-clockwise as you look at the side profile with the truck to your left. This pitches the bar in your receiver down in front and up in back, causing the vehicle frame to rotate in the same direction, pushing the front end down.
The Auto Expert John Cadogan channel has a good episode on this, along with some warnings to think about. th-cam.com/video/kCgRiVNaXFc/w-d-xo.html
I enjoyed you explanation, very clear and concise. I do have a question, can a weight distribution hitch be used for even smaller SUV's, with a relatively low tow rating, to assist with everything that is described above even for lighter trailers?
LOL Jag and Landrover probably tell you not to use one because they don't have a strong enough uni-body to handle it.
You said that weight distribution hitches do not affect the trailer. But they do in fact put load on the trailer frame and axle. Not significant but the force on the spring bars has to be supported by something. Any truck towing a conventional trailer will benefit from a load distribution hitch for the simple fact that it re loads the front axle. Maybe if you have the longest 2500 or 3500 truck the effect may be minimal but anything else should always use it when you hit the recommended weight. Also squat wont be corrected that much with weight distribution. If you have a coil spring rear or light leaf spring you will defiantly want air bags or air shocks.
I tried that type of hitch once did not level the truck or trailer then I decided to go with air lift bags towed level and smoothly and when not having a trailer on truck handle nicely best investment ever made.
Nowadays, 1/2 trucks town 10K is easy, but I always emphasize not pulling but breaking! IMO safety, it's first, and I don't feel comfortable towin more than 7K lbs with a 1/2, a 3/4 has a beefy components abd will handle a LOT better.
It's not about your safety only but colaterals too, just to think that 1 mistake can take family lives is not a game to be unsafe out there.
My family and other ones are waiting for you and those around you, I encourage you to take the extra safety step and always leave a 30% free weight capacity, and even then, I have seen many accidents. No matter what truck you have, if a deer passes in front or below you, it's enough to create an accident. The USA has many regions, temperatures, and weather, so you are not only to consider weight but those extras too.
Be safe out there