I have been researching compound bows for a couple weeks now and I have really gained a lot of knowledge from your video's. I'm looking at buying my very 1st bow this week, Hoyt Torrex XT, and I thank you for the time you have taken to make this video's. They have helped me tremendously!
Thank you . Best tuning video I’ve seen so far . The others weren’t bad they just didn’t give all the pieces of the puzzle in one video. Thanks for not wasting time with a bunch of information I wasn’t looking for either . I will be watching more of your videos going forward.
Hey Sean quick update on the tuning problem , i spoke to soon about my Hoyt tuning problems , it turns out it was my release the whole time ,not sure why it was causing the high tear ,there is nothing that feels differently about it , but i don't why I decided to switch to my other release and I'm shooting perfect bullet holes every time now , so relieved ,i was getting very frustrated , thanks again for all your hard work to give all the info and DIY Vids , I'm truly a fan God bless ,have a good evening
100% informative! I just use this video to timing my 2 hoyts using my home made bow press (very similar to the ones they sold for 700) and using my home made draw board, thanks for the info.
Hey Alfredo, could you tell me how you make that bowpress and the draw bord please ? Like you said , buying is more expensive. And here in my country (Belgium), the archeryshops don't have that. If we want to buy that, we must order it in the States. And then add the shipping costs, then it is a very expensive arch press and drawing board. If you could explain that, maybe with some photo's, so i could see it. www.walter.eeckels@gmail.com . Then i could let it make for me. Thanks Alfredo.
Great video Shawn. I just bought a Spyder ZT and this video is very informative as I like to understand the "what's" and "why's" of my favorite hobby. Keep up the great work.
www.seansoutdooradventures.com facebook.com/seansoutdoors/ instagram.com/seansoutdooradventures/ www.amazon.com/shop/seansoutdooradventures Thanks for checking out my videos. I appreciate it. I actually responded to comment years ago, but ALL of my replies were deleted when changing the main email on my account, ugh. Anyway, I am going back through and re-replying to all old comments so they stop popping up in the unanswered post column of my TH-cam studio. As you can see, I included some links to my website and social media links in case you are interested in checking any of it out. Thanks for your patience with this process. God bless you.
Cheers mate. Just got my quest radical rt purple bow today and it has a tini bit of cam lean, thought it would have been checked at the shop but it wasn't. Video helped alot mate, thumbs up
+seansoutdoor so after watching your video i went and checked my hoyt defiant 34 and i found out that the bottom cam is under rotating also the tiller on the bottom is smaller by 1/8 . my draw weight is at 60 pounds ( limbs full screwed ). what i have to do is add a twist on the bass cable, and if i found that the draw weight went higher than 60 pounds then i have to take a twist from the control cable.or i can do the opposite add a twist on the control cable and if the weight goes more than 60 take a twist from the bass cable.is that correct? thanks in advance😊
www.seansoutdooradventures.com facebook.com/seansoutdoors/ instagram.com/seansoutdooradventures/ www.amazon.com/shop/seansoutdooradventures Thanks for checking out my videos. I appreciate it. I actually responded to comment years ago, but ALL of my replies were deleted when changing the main email on my account, ugh. Anyway, I am going back through and re-replying to all old comments so they stop popping up in the unanswered post column of my TH-cam studio. As you can see, I included some links to my website and social media links in case you are interested in checking any of it out. Thanks for your patience with this process. God bless you.
On my experience tuning my hoyt bows to reduce cam lean is best done on a draw board, taking the cam lean out so that they are the straightest while at full draw not at rest. Which is usually done in the hour factory and fine tuned In your pro shop or home shop.
Sean's Outdoor Adventures guess I should have clarified that. You’ll still add or remove twists in the cable. But based on the cam lean at full draw not at rest. Basically all my hoyt bows, if you look at them while at rest have some cam lean. But when I’m at full draw they are perfectly straight. Not saying wrong or right on the video. This is how they taught me to reduce it at Hoyt University. With cam & 1/2 cam lean or no cam lean at rest can be redundant if it isn’t straight at full draw.
Got ya. I just paper tune in that respect and ignore cam lean to some extent. I do that now after using Xpedition bows. Man, when it comes to the hybrid cam bow, Xpedition really has an amazing bow. Easiest bow I've ever tuned to get perfect arrow flight in a couple minutes th-cam.com/video/ymuKegWPJ5I/w-d-xo.html Somehow they have a faster, smoother, and easier to tune bow than Hoyt. If Xpedition would only change that cable guard system then they'd really be the perfect hybrid cam bow.
I will do that , don't understand why my bow which wasn't cheap by no means is so difficult to tune with regards to draw stop and and cam timing .. I guess more expensive isn't always the better option with regards to tuning .. I thought hoyt would have been the better choice, thanks again for all do Sean, God bless you, I'll be in touch
Thanks, Steven. Best of luck with it. I try to not say it often, but I haven't liked Hoyts for a while now. After I shot and owned a few Xpedition, it just makes it hard to shoot a Hoyt. Xpedition just crushes Hoyt with the same cam system. If Hoyt was serious and smart like their tag line, they would look for ways to implement what Xpedition is doing with the same platform of a hybrid cam system. (Hoyt, if you are reading this comment, please start considering that if you haven' already. Xpedition has a smoother, faster, more tune-able bow than you.)
Dear Sean. I have a carbon spyder turbo and it has 70 lb limbs on it. It measures 61-73 lbs. is that normal? Also the riser on these Hoyt's have a rubber guard around where we measure the nock point from the burger hole. Should I adjust the nock point high so the veins will clear the riser upon fire? Also I see the bottom stop is hitting about an eighth of an inch before the top. This means I need to take maybe 1 full twist out of the cable? Thanks a lot Sean. We don't have detailed technicians here in Ky. God bless you.
Years ago I transferred my TH-cam channel account and in the process it deleted every reply I ever made. It's my goal to go back and add a reply to them all. Visit the giveaways page of my website if you ever would like a chance at winning some of the free stuff I give to my viewers. www.seansoutdooradventures.com/giveaways/
Dear Sean, great video. Just bought a new hoyt nitrum turbo and I am still not getting proper arrow flight. The cam timing is pretty pot on. I keep on chasing my tail with adjustments with the rest during paper testing. The scary thing is that i am shooting bull's eye at 10, 20 and 30m so far but when i look down the bow setup, the arrow, string and sight are not aligned at all. I can only suspect a spine issue. Can you help here?
Years ago I transferred my TH-cam channel account and in the process it deleted every reply I ever made. It's my goal to go back and add a reply to them all. Visit the giveaways page of my website if you ever would like a chance at winning some of the free stuff I give to my viewers. www.seansoutdooradventures.com/giveaways/
Thanks Sean, this will help when I install my new string and cables on my Hoyt Spyder next week. My biggest problem now is the bottom cam lean. It's bad enough that it chews up my serving over time. Not sure how to correct that or if I should just leave it.
I thought it is common for peak weight to be 2-3 lbs above what's marked on the limbs. Is it necessary to tune it to max out at stated poundage. Awesomely clear and comprehensive video by the way.
have a question these bows hoyt are the cams supposed to have a little lean towards the roller thing or should the cams be straight?I'm new to archery ,great vids
There usually is some cam lean on the bottom one but you can modify the top can to achieve optimum performance. This means there could be some.cam lean depending on how the bow shoots.
Hello again Mr Seansoutdoor, thankyou very much for your info on cam or wheel lean.Well after twisted and untwisted on both yoke cables , the wheel on my solocam bow was perfectly straight. However Mr Seans how about yoke cable on my other two hoytbows which have a seperate yoke or "Y" that goes through the main buss cable.After twisted and untwisted the "Y" I still noticed there is a cam lean ! Do you agree that most bows with this type of buss cable , that is the separated yoke that goes throught the main buss cable have cam lean after shooting for a period of time? Need your ideas, suggestions and your expertise on how to correct this cam lean.Do u agree serving the tip at the "V" on the yoke say an inch can help? Thanks v much again for your feedback and God Bless You!
***** Hello and thankyou again Mr Seans for your prompt reply. I agreed there shouldn't any cam lean after adjusting either one of the yoke.l have done and corrected the cam lean on 3 bows already.All these bows have splited yoke on a continuously buss cable.However come to my older bows which have the separated yoke that runs through the main buss, I find difficulties adjusting cam lean here.In your opinion, Mr Seans, is it advisable to served the tip of 2 yokes together so that each yoke arm can b twist and untwist independently.Thankyou and also gratefully Mr Seans if u can make a video on "bottom Cam Lean".God bless you !
Hi Sean, great work, like following your channel and wisdom. I have 3 bows, possibly older than most, 2x Brownings and 1x Hoyt contender elite. You made this video about 7 years ago and I guess nothing has really changed? Any thoughts on doing another if there has been any changes ?. Cheers good luck with your book 👍🏻
Yes I have made a number of bow tuning videos. Some are in the playlist called archery tips and bow tuning on my channel and there are others in the archery for beginners playlist. I will be making more in the future as well. God bless
@@seansoutdoors , thanks for your prompt reply Sean, I don’t think there would be many of your videos that I haven’t watched. I’m just over 70, I was regarded as one of the best at my club. I gave it all up because of private circumstances nearly 15 years ago and now getting back into it. I don’t know how I was that good, there was no TH-cam back in the day your channel has been particularly good at jogging my memory and informing me of things I wasn’t aware off, I like your no nonsense approach. Again my thanks. I am non religious but may your god bless you and yours. Cheers.
Dear Mathias, seeing that we share the same bow model could you confirm your bow weight, arrow spine and if your arrows are launching perfectly. Many thanks
Hey Sean, When you got to the tiller part, yours was good so you just moved on. I've got a brand new Hoyt I'm trying to get setup. I noticed my tiller was off so I tried making some adjustments to see if I could get things to line up. I seem to have about 1/8" difference between the top and bottom limbs. One must've been turned more than the other, so I tightened both of the limb bolts down all the way. Still have that 1/8" difference between the two. Where do I go from here?
Sean's Outdoor Adventures cams are in sync. I think I've got it figured out though. I was reading that sometimes on the cam and a half bows the cams are slightly different sizes/shapes so this will throw off a tiller measurement to the string. But what the tiller is measuring is whether or not the limbs are both at the same angle with the riser. So I ran a string from axle to axle and measured to the riser on each side. That got me an equal measurement. My bow is a 2017 Pro Defiant, it's hard for me to tell looking at it if the cams are different or not. What do you think?
I haven't tried to tune the newer Hoyts so maybe that's the case. As long as your draw stop timing is on and everything seems to be giving you good arrow flight then I'd say you are fine.
great video :-) ! please make one for anchor point , form etc .. And just curious - if I tape a string on the front side of the bow ( from limbbolt to limbbolt ) and my arrow isn't inline with it but tunes nice through paper though . What does it mean ???? I think that my cams are not rotating completely straight...i have a feeling that the cable-guard is pulling them too harsh sideways. Or maybe I have to shim my cams in order to straighten their path of rotation ;-) what do u think ? I shoot a spyder 34 ( 2013 )
Love the video, i have a hoyt vulcan, and it does or has it ever had string stops , was like this out of the box , it has the vector cam and 1/2 on it, is this correct , how can i time where each cam stops without the string stops , give a shout when you can , i would love so.e insight on my particular hoyt
Hay, Sean so can't find the video where you drew a line on the target , to get left & right dialed in but I Have a ? , so @ 20 yrds I'm on the line same with 30 but at 40 & 50, 60 I start walking left and if I adjust the rest for that then back at 20 yrds I'm off, . the bow is a 2017 , Hoyt Pro Defiant, any help would be much appreciated ! thanks and God Bless, happy hunting!
If you are on point at 20 and 30, and then it goes off if you move the rest as you have said, then maybe you are very slightly modifying your anchor without realizing it when you are at the longer distances. Pay close attention to where the sight housing rests within the peep sight at all of the distances, and see where the arrow lands. Also, pay close attention to your arm that holds the bow to notice if you are moving it even the slightest amount at the last minute during the release. Good luck and God bless you! Sean
Hey Sean, i got 1 question. How much, in centimeters, must i set the tiller on my Hoyt XT 2000 ? And yes, it's a older bow, i know. But notice that i only shooting indoor at 18 and 25 meters. My arrows are Easton Triumph 9.3 carbon for 25 meters, and Easton aluminium 2315 for 18 meters. My drawweight is appox. 28 inch. And the plastic vanes are Bohning 2". The bow was set on 52 #, but i had a accident and my wrist was broken in 2 parts. Now i start shooting again after 6 months, but i have to decrease him to 34 #.
Dear Sean, one last issue with my Nitrum Turbo: I manage to get higher spined arrow (GT Velocity XT- 300) and i am still getting funny paper tears, typically fletching tearing on the LHS. Therefore it looks like spine is not the issue here. I swapped the spacer bushings on the bottom cam to try and get the string a bit more centered and this did not help much. Cam timing is perfect. Finally there is no consistency between the arrow tears; sometimes the arrow leaves the bow skewed to a high degree, some time to a lesser degree. Would the whisker biscuit arrow rest be the culprit and should i change to a drop rest OR could the nock be too tight and induce further trouble in? please help. Many thanks
www.seansoutdooradventures.com facebook.com/seansoutdoors/ instagram.com/seansoutdooradventures/ www.amazon.com/shop/seansoutdooradventures Thanks for checking out my videos. I appreciate it. I actually responded to comment years ago, but ALL of my replies were deleted when changing the main email on my account, ugh. Anyway, I am going back through and re-replying to all old comments so they stop popping up in the unanswered post column of my TH-cam studio. As you can see, I included some links to my website and social media links in case you are interested in checking any of it out. Thanks for your patience with this process. God bless you.
Thanks for checking out my videos. I appreciate it. I actually responded to your post years ago, but ALL of my replies were deleted when I transferred my channel to a branding account, www.seansoutdooradventures.com facebook.com/seansoutdoors/ instagram.com/seansoutdooradventures/ www.amazon.com/shop/seansoutdooradventures so I am going back through and replying to all old comments so they stop popping up in my unanswered post column on my TH-cam studio. As you can see, I included some links to my social media stuff in case you are interested in checking any of it out. Thanks for your patience with this process. God bless you.
Where do I go to check out the book you mention? Do you have an email address I can request additional information? I use this video repeatedly to assist in my tuning. THE best on TH-cam.!
Hey Sean, a buddy of mine just picked up a 2014 Hoyt Charger and the let off is insane. Too insane, to the point I think something is up. Is there a process to timing the cam and a half?
Hey Sean, I watched your video a few times over. You have great information, and it really helped get my Carbon Overdrive shooting bullets (if I could add a picture I'd show you). However, with the Hoyt Charger, there is only a draw stop on the bottom cam, which is making contact. Left to right is good, getting a high tear with a biscuit, arrow straight down berger hole with only a touch of a back end lift due to the d-loop. It is maybe a couple millimeters high. Do you think I should drop the d-loop to parallel? The lack of vertical adjustment on the biscuit is definitely annoying. Thanks for your help!
You can try that and see what that gives you. Depending on how much weight change and change to draw length you may also need to add twist to the cables.
But by some bows like my one where you nock the arrow is much higher over center so you need a positive tiller to compensate that right? Pls answer it would help
Sean thanks. My struggle is that I dont have a good press. Currently I use a portable press which is good for small jobs but just too timely for larger jobs. Again, i appreciate your feedback.
so say to change your draw stop you take out a couple twist of the bus cable; then you run into cam lean... how do you correct one without affecting the other?
Hey Sean, I've watched your videos for awhile and i keep finding myself coming back to this particular video ,one because I shoot a hoyt , i have a couple questions regarding my particular hoyt, which is a 2007 Vulcan 500 , 33" axle to axle, draw length 28", set at 65lbs , i put new strings and cables on it last week ,got it timed and got the tiller to match both limbs , i put a QAD ultra rest on it a few years ago , before I replaced my strings I was getting a right tear through paper , after I replaced my strings I set my knock point at 90 degrees on the string , i was getting a high tear , my rest was all the up as far as it would go , so i lowered my knock point , shooting bullet holes through paper but i noticed the front of my arrow running up hill a bit , is this normal , sorry for all info , but i could really use some input since you shoot hoyts
No it is not normal. Check to see if the cable is going through the spot on the cam that it should. I believe back then they had a little hole in the cam that you should be able to see the cable through that hole. If your arrow is pointing up, your cam rotation may be off a little causing it to impact the flight. When you set the timing, did you tighten the limb bolts all the way down? If not, then you could have some rotation things a little out even if the stops are hitting in time. Basically, I'd tighten them all the way down and just check the draw stop timing (ignore tiller for now). Once all that is on, paper tune at peak weight. Then back it down to your desired weight, check the timing again, and then see if your are still hitting well through paper. (Sometimes with a hybrid cam the tiller could measure a little off depending on the situation because the cams are not identical. It really all depends, so the tiller isn't the absolute biggest concern with a hybrid cam.) Also, when paper tuning, move back and shoot at several distances to see if you are still getting bullets. Sometimes you can think you are getting bullet holes but it is just where you are standing the arrow is at a certain flex coming off of the bow. Also, make sure you have the right spined arrow for your setup. God bless ya.
Sean's Outdoor Adventures thanks Sean I appreciate your response ,it has the Vector Cam & 1/2 , i will give it a try, i appreciate all you do for us , God bless you too
Hey Sean, just talked to Hoyt, tech said that after everything is said and done with arrow at 90 degrees with the bow string and cam draw stops hitting correctly and I'm still getting a nock high tear ,that I need to advance my top cam so the top draw STOP hits before the lower stop , does this sound accurate to you
Yeah that is one way to get good nock travel but it can also give you a less than desirable back wall. It will be softer and also you could experience variations depending on if you are pulling through to get the second stop to hit as well, or are just stopping at the first contact. That's also why I like the Xpedition hybrid cam system over the hoyts. With Hoyts you can't adjust for vertical nock travel and then move the draw stop pegs to compensate for the change like you can with the Xpedition bows th-cam.com/video/ymuKegWPJ5I/w-d-xo.html. Although I haven't done it, I guess you could also try changing the tiller on the top limb and then readjusting the draw stop timing to hit dead on and see if that change in limb angle and cam angle will do it. Let me know what you do and what works for you. God bless ya.
For the cam timing portion of the video, you incorrectly stated which cables need twisting. If the top cam is under rotated as you show in the video, you should take twists out of the control cable or put twist in the buss cable. You stated that you should take twist out of the buss cable which is incorrect. However, when you showed taking twists out of the cables in the next scene while the bow was on the press, you took twists out of the control cable. I think this should be clarified.
Yeah, Chad, I had clarified that after I realized it after posting the video, and I put text cards up on the video to identify that, but TH-cam has since done away with those. I made a mention in the description section how I switched the terms accidentally. Maybe some day I will be able to etch some time into my schedule to re-do the video. God bless you.
Sean, you did a good job with the video, I just wanted to make sure people weren't confused. I hope you didn't take offense to my comments. Keep up the good work.
No offense at all. I don't claim to be perfect and although I tried I still mixed up my terminology when filming. I wish it allowed you to edit a video once it is uploaded like this but it doesn't. Anyway, thanks for watching and God bless you.
Compound bows are an obsessive/compulsive's delight. You can fiddle forever to get it juuuuuust right. Drag it to your man cave and spend a whole evening LOL.
bow shop here didnt do any of that they put new strings and cables on didnt tell me to shoot 200 arrows to break in string and cable didnt tell me to come back for tune when i asked about tune they said it took to long if i had a problem bring it back to them sounds like a sorry bow shop would you agree
Thanks for checking out my videos. I appreciate it. God bless you. www.seansoutdooradventures.com facebook.com/seansoutdoors/ instagram.com/seansoutdooradventures/ www.amazon.com/shop/seansoutdooradventures
I don't currently have a video on a single cam tuning, and i don't have one to do as an example, but I will try to think of something to do for it. God bless you.
***** I am trying to tune my carbon element with the fuel cam. I have a little left cam lean. Center shot is perfect after walk back tuning. My fixed boradheads are hitting about 5 inches to the right of my field tips at 40 yards. Also I perform bare shaft tuning and my bare shaft is about 6 inches left of my fletched arrows at 20 yards. What would you try to make the fixed blade broadhead shoot closer of my field tipped arrows? I will appreciate any of your tips!. Do you thing i should start with correcting the Cam lean or adjust the rest to the right?,, Thank You!
Yes, I realized that later on after I posted the video which is why I explained it in the description section, but you are totally right. I called it by the wrong name. Sorry about that.
Sorry if you misunderstood it for being an insult. More like the other way around :) would rather have that manly cheekbones than the opposite, and hey girls like sharp jawlines. Interesting story you told aswell, glad it worked out well. Be proud of that sharpness and that it has a story behind makes it even better man. Thanks for an informative video, had pressed the thumbs up because of that. Cheers from Sweden fellow bowyer
***** You are correct on that. Its hard to know wether people are being serious or not over the internet. Some smileys work but mine on the first comment wasnt clear enough :P Personally if I thought someone looked funny or w/e I would NOT write anything about it and insult the person, cause thats not who I am and what I like to do. But there are people that likes to insult people look etc and therefore, like you said, dont think before they write stuff. But like you said, you dont know me and therefore won't know in wich way I mean things :) Glad you wrote your first comment tho so I could clear my point.
Thanks for checking out my videos. I appreciate it. God bless you. www.amazon.com/shop/seansoutdooradventures www.seansoutdooradventures.com facebook.com/seansoutdoors/ instagram.com/seansoutdooradventures/
Dear Sean, I suspected a underpinned arrow and i got GT arrows with a 300 spine. As per the GT spine table, since the bow is IBO in excess of 345 I should be using 300 spine with a 28-29inc DL with a 100gr tip. I am still getting this bloody tear with the point hitting RHS and a little bit on the lower side. I have been playing around with the different setups and could not get proper arrow flight. I also reduce the bow weight but didn't help much… As mentioned previously mentioned the timing between the cams is perfect. The only thing i could pick up is a slight lean in the top cam, i.e. the LHS limb is a little bit lower than the RHS. I will be doing the necessary for this in a near future. until then would you have any clue about what could be going wrong. many thanks
+TheBlackicehunter Dear Sean, one last clarification: the string as it stands between the two cams is actually not in the centerline of the bow. its sits on the LHS of both thentop and the bottom cam, meaning that if the arrow is to be square with the entire bow, it would be a little bit onnthe LHS of the shelf- right?
I did the tuning at peak weight prier to this phase of the video, which I talked about in the video, which is also why I was talking about peak weight in the past tense at 4:35, just saying. God bless ya.
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I have been researching compound bows for a couple weeks now and I have really gained a lot of knowledge from your video's. I'm looking at buying my very 1st bow this week, Hoyt Torrex XT, and I thank you for the time you have taken to make this video's. They have helped me tremendously!
Great, enjoy it.
THE best Hoyt tuning video on TH-cam! This gives me confidence.
Im staying tuned in...God bless you brother!
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Thank you . Best tuning video I’ve seen so far . The others weren’t bad they just didn’t give all the pieces of the puzzle in one video. Thanks for not wasting time with a bunch of information I wasn’t looking for either . I will be watching more of your videos going forward.
Thank you!!!!
Man I just got a helix and this is going to help me when I get home for sure to set my bow up.. thank you boss and god bless
Sure thing. Enjoy it
Hey Sean quick update on the tuning problem , i spoke to soon about my Hoyt tuning problems , it turns out it was my release the whole time ,not sure why it was causing the high tear ,there is nothing that feels differently about it , but i don't why I decided to switch to my other release and I'm shooting perfect bullet holes every time now , so relieved ,i was getting very frustrated , thanks again for all your hard work to give all the info and DIY Vids , I'm truly a fan God bless ,have a good evening
Lol, that is too funny. Good to know. Glad it all worked out. God bless ya.
100% informative! I just use this video to timing my 2 hoyts using my home made bow press (very similar to the ones they sold for 700) and using my home made draw board, thanks for the info.
That’s great!
Hey Alfredo, could you tell me how you make that bowpress and the draw bord please ? Like you said , buying is more expensive. And here in my country (Belgium), the archeryshops don't have that. If we want to buy that, we must order it in the States. And then add the shipping costs, then it is a very expensive arch press and drawing board. If you could explain that, maybe with some photo's, so i could see it. www.walter.eeckels@gmail.com . Then i could let it make for me. Thanks Alfredo.
Great video Shawn. I just bought a Spyder ZT and this video is very informative as I like to understand the "what's" and "why's" of my favorite hobby. Keep up the great work.
www.seansoutdooradventures.com facebook.com/seansoutdoors/ instagram.com/seansoutdooradventures/ www.amazon.com/shop/seansoutdooradventures
Thanks for checking out my videos. I appreciate it. I actually responded to comment years ago, but ALL of my replies were deleted when changing the main email on my account, ugh. Anyway, I am going back through and re-replying to all old comments so they stop popping up in the unanswered post column of my TH-cam studio. As you can see, I included some links to my website and social media links in case you are interested in checking any of it out. Thanks for your patience with this process. God bless you.
Excellent step by step, easy to follow instructions!!!
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Cheers mate. Just got my quest radical rt purple bow today and it has a tini bit of cam lean, thought it would have been checked at the shop but it wasn't. Video helped alot mate, thumbs up
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This video is very informative and makes me appreciate my recurve!
Lol thanks
thanks for making this video and all the other videos!I just bought my first bow (hoyt) and you are helping me A LOT!
+seansoutdoor
so after watching your video i went and checked my hoyt defiant 34 and i found out that the bottom cam is under rotating also the tiller on the bottom is smaller by 1/8 . my draw weight is at 60 pounds ( limbs full screwed ). what i have to do is add a twist on the bass cable, and if i found that the draw weight went higher than 60 pounds then i have to take a twist from the control cable.or i can do the opposite add a twist on the control cable and if the weight goes more than 60 take a twist from the bass cable.is that correct?
thanks in advance😊
www.seansoutdooradventures.com facebook.com/seansoutdoors/ instagram.com/seansoutdooradventures/ www.amazon.com/shop/seansoutdooradventures
Thanks for checking out my videos. I appreciate it. I actually responded to comment years ago, but ALL of my replies were deleted when changing the main email on my account, ugh. Anyway, I am going back through and re-replying to all old comments so they stop popping up in the unanswered post column of my TH-cam studio. As you can see, I included some links to my website and social media links in case you are interested in checking any of it out. Thanks for your patience with this process. God bless you.
On my experience tuning my hoyt bows to reduce cam lean is best done on a draw board, taking the cam lean out so that they are the straightest while at full draw not at rest. Which is usually done in the hour factory and fine tuned In your pro shop or home shop.
Okay, you put it on the draw board, but then what do you do to remove it?
Sean's Outdoor Adventures guess I should have clarified that. You’ll still add or remove twists in the cable. But based on the cam lean at full draw not at rest. Basically all my hoyt bows, if you look at them while at rest have some cam lean. But when I’m at full draw they are perfectly straight. Not saying wrong or right on the video. This is how they taught me to reduce it at Hoyt University. With cam & 1/2 cam lean or no cam lean at rest can be redundant if it isn’t straight at full draw.
I also do this using a hooter Shooter or similar device, So I can Eye the full draw lean or lack of while at full draw a little more closely.
Got ya. I just paper tune in that respect and ignore cam lean to some extent. I do that now after using Xpedition bows. Man, when it comes to the hybrid cam bow, Xpedition really has an amazing bow. Easiest bow I've ever tuned to get perfect arrow flight in a couple minutes th-cam.com/video/ymuKegWPJ5I/w-d-xo.html
Somehow they have a faster, smoother, and easier to tune bow than Hoyt. If Xpedition would only change that cable guard system then they'd really be the perfect hybrid cam bow.
I will do that , don't understand why my bow which wasn't cheap by no means is so difficult to tune with regards to draw stop and and cam timing .. I guess more expensive isn't always the better option with regards to tuning .. I thought hoyt would have been the better choice, thanks again for all do Sean, God bless you, I'll be in touch
Thanks, Steven. Best of luck with it. I try to not say it often, but I haven't liked Hoyts for a while now. After I shot and owned a few Xpedition, it just makes it hard to shoot a Hoyt. Xpedition just crushes Hoyt with the same cam system. If Hoyt was serious and smart like their tag line, they would look for ways to implement what Xpedition is doing with the same platform of a hybrid cam system. (Hoyt, if you are reading this comment, please start considering that if you haven' already. Xpedition has a smoother, faster, more tune-able bow than you.)
Dear Sean. I have a carbon spyder turbo and it has 70 lb limbs on it. It measures 61-73 lbs. is that normal? Also the riser on these Hoyt's have a rubber guard around where we measure the nock point from the burger hole. Should I adjust the nock point high so the veins will clear the riser upon fire? Also I see the bottom stop is hitting about an eighth of an inch before the top. This means I need to take maybe 1 full twist out of the cable? Thanks a lot Sean. We don't have detailed technicians here in Ky. God bless you.
+seansoutdoor thank you. Merry Christmas
Years ago I transferred my TH-cam channel account and in the process it deleted every reply I ever made. It's my goal to go back and add a reply to them all. Visit the giveaways page of my website if you ever would like a chance at winning some of the free stuff I give to my viewers. www.seansoutdooradventures.com/giveaways/
@@seansoutdoors signed up brother. You didn’t have to go back through all of them. There’s been many lol
Dear Sean, great video.
Just bought a new hoyt nitrum turbo and I am still not getting proper arrow flight. The cam timing is pretty pot on. I keep on chasing my tail with adjustments with the rest during paper testing. The scary thing is that i am shooting bull's eye at 10, 20 and 30m so far but when i look down the bow setup, the arrow, string and sight are not aligned at all. I can only suspect a spine issue.
Can you help here?
Years ago I transferred my TH-cam channel account and in the process it deleted every reply I ever made. It's my goal to go back and add a reply to them all. Visit the giveaways page of my website if you ever would like a chance at winning some of the free stuff I give to my viewers. www.seansoutdooradventures.com/giveaways/
Thanks Sean, this will help when I install my new string and cables on my Hoyt Spyder next week. My biggest problem now is the bottom cam lean. It's bad enough that it chews up my serving over time. Not sure how to correct that or if I should just leave it.
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I thought it is common for peak weight to be 2-3 lbs above what's marked on the limbs. Is it necessary to tune it to max out at stated poundage. Awesomely clear and comprehensive video by the way.
It really all depends on the manufacturer
have a question these bows hoyt are the cams supposed to have a little lean towards the roller thing or should the cams be straight?I'm new to archery ,great vids
There usually is some cam lean on the bottom one but you can modify the top can to achieve optimum performance. This means there could be some.cam lean depending on how the bow shoots.
@@seansoutdoors 👍thanks for the fast reply
Thanks for the Hoyt information !
You're welcome
Thanks for that video. It cleared up a few things for me for sure.
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Absolutely love this video thanks for the info
You are welcome and thank you
Hello again Mr Seansoutdoor, thankyou very much for your info on cam or wheel lean.Well after twisted and untwisted on both yoke cables , the wheel on my solocam bow was perfectly straight. However Mr Seans how about yoke cable on my other two hoytbows which have a seperate yoke or "Y" that goes through the main buss cable.After twisted and untwisted the "Y" I still noticed there is a cam lean ! Do you agree that most bows with this type of buss cable , that is the separated yoke that goes throught the main buss cable have cam lean after shooting for a period of time? Need your ideas, suggestions and your expertise on how to correct this cam lean.Do u agree serving the tip at the "V" on the yoke say an inch can help? Thanks v much again for your feedback and God Bless You!
*****
Hello and thankyou again Mr Seans for your prompt reply. I agreed there shouldn't any cam lean after adjusting either one of the yoke.l have done and corrected the cam lean on 3 bows already.All these bows have splited yoke on a continuously buss cable.However come to my older bows which have the separated yoke that runs through the main buss, I find difficulties adjusting cam lean here.In your opinion, Mr Seans, is it advisable to served the tip of 2 yokes together so that each yoke arm can b twist and untwist independently.Thankyou and also gratefully Mr Seans if u can make a video on "bottom Cam Lean".God bless you !
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Hi Sean, great work, like following your channel and wisdom.
I have 3 bows, possibly older than most, 2x Brownings and 1x Hoyt contender elite. You made this video about 7 years ago and I guess nothing has really changed? Any thoughts on doing another if there has been any changes ?.
Cheers good luck with your book 👍🏻
Yes I have made a number of bow tuning videos. Some are in the playlist called archery tips and bow tuning on my channel and there are others in the archery for beginners playlist. I will be making more in the future as well. God bless
@@seansoutdoors , thanks for your prompt reply Sean, I don’t think there would be many of your videos that I haven’t watched. I’m just over 70, I was regarded as one of the best at my club. I gave it all up because of private circumstances nearly 15 years ago and now getting back into it. I don’t know how I was that good, there was no TH-cam back in the day your channel has been particularly good at jogging my memory and informing me of things I wasn’t aware off, I like your no nonsense approach. Again my thanks. I am non religious but may your god bless you and yours. Cheers.
@@stevetait2 Thanks so much, Steve! God bless you and welcome back to the sport.
Great job making sense of all this
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Great video sean! What can i do when the axle to axle is too long? I have a Hoyt nitrum turbo 2015.
Dear Mathias, seeing that we share the same bow model could you confirm your bow weight, arrow spine and if your arrows are launching perfectly. Many thanks
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Hey Sean,
When you got to the tiller part, yours was good so you just moved on. I've got a brand new Hoyt I'm trying to get setup. I noticed my tiller was off so I tried making some adjustments to see if I could get things to line up. I seem to have about 1/8" difference between the top and bottom limbs.
One must've been turned more than the other, so I tightened both of the limb bolts down all the way. Still have that 1/8" difference between the two. Where do I go from here?
how is your draw stop timing when it is at full draw?
Sean's Outdoor Adventures cams are in sync. I think I've got it figured out though. I was reading that sometimes on the cam and a half bows the cams are slightly different sizes/shapes so this will throw off a tiller measurement to the string.
But what the tiller is measuring is whether or not the limbs are both at the same angle with the riser. So I ran a string from axle to axle and measured to the riser on each side. That got me an equal measurement.
My bow is a 2017 Pro Defiant, it's hard for me to tell looking at it if the cams are different or not. What do you think?
I haven't tried to tune the newer Hoyts so maybe that's the case. As long as your draw stop timing is on and everything seems to be giving you good arrow flight then I'd say you are fine.
great video :-) !
please make one for anchor point , form etc ..
And just curious - if I tape a string on the front side of the bow ( from limbbolt to limbbolt ) and my arrow isn't inline with it but tunes nice through paper though . What does it mean ????
I think that my cams are not rotating completely straight...i have a feeling that the cable-guard is pulling them too harsh sideways. Or maybe I have to shim my cams in order to straighten their path of rotation ;-)
what do u think ?
I shoot a spyder 34 ( 2013 )
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Thank you, this is the best video I ever watch and actually learn alot excelent I love it good job Sean's
Thanks, Marcos. I appreciate it. God bless you.
thanks finely a tuning that is related for my bow it will help me alot to get my bow shoting perfect
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Love the video, i have a hoyt vulcan, and it does or has it ever had string stops , was like this out of the box , it has the vector cam and 1/2 on it, is this correct , how can i time where each cam stops without the string stops , give a shout when you can , i would love so.e insight on my particular hoyt
I'm not familiar with that bow.
Hay, Sean so can't find the video where you drew a line on the target , to get left & right dialed in but I Have a ? , so @ 20 yrds I'm on the line same with 30 but at 40 & 50, 60 I start walking left and if I adjust the rest for that then back at 20 yrds I'm off, . the bow is a 2017 , Hoyt Pro Defiant, any help would be much appreciated !
thanks and God Bless, happy hunting!
If you are on point at 20 and 30, and then it goes off if you move the rest as you have said, then maybe you are very slightly modifying your anchor without realizing it when you are at the longer distances. Pay close attention to where the sight housing rests within the peep sight at all of the distances, and see where the arrow lands. Also, pay close attention to your arm that holds the bow to notice if you are moving it even the slightest amount at the last minute during the release. Good luck and God bless you! Sean
Hey Sean, i got 1 question. How much, in centimeters, must i set the tiller on my Hoyt XT 2000 ? And yes, it's a older bow, i know. But notice that i only shooting indoor at 18 and 25 meters.
My arrows are Easton Triumph 9.3 carbon for 25 meters, and Easton aluminium 2315 for 18 meters. My drawweight is appox. 28 inch. And the plastic vanes are Bohning 2".
The bow was set on 52 #, but i had a accident and my wrist was broken in 2 parts. Now i start shooting again after 6 months, but i have to decrease him to 34 #.
You just need the top and bottom tiller to match.
So the tiller must be equal, top & bottom ?
@@PopcornWalter yes
Dear Sean,
one last issue with my Nitrum Turbo: I manage to get higher spined arrow (GT Velocity XT- 300) and i am still getting funny paper tears, typically fletching tearing on the LHS. Therefore it looks like spine is not the issue here. I swapped the spacer bushings on the bottom cam to try and get the string a bit more centered and this did not help much. Cam timing is perfect. Finally there is no consistency between the arrow tears; sometimes the arrow leaves the bow skewed to a high degree, some time to a lesser degree. Would the whisker biscuit arrow rest be the culprit and should i change to a drop rest OR could the nock be too tight and induce further trouble in? please help. Many thanks
www.seansoutdooradventures.com facebook.com/seansoutdoors/ instagram.com/seansoutdooradventures/ www.amazon.com/shop/seansoutdooradventures
Thanks for checking out my videos. I appreciate it. I actually responded to comment years ago, but ALL of my replies were deleted when changing the main email on my account, ugh. Anyway, I am going back through and re-replying to all old comments so they stop popping up in the unanswered post column of my TH-cam studio. As you can see, I included some links to my website and social media links in case you are interested in checking any of it out. Thanks for your patience with this process. God bless you.
Thank you sir very helpful video
You’re welcome!
always enjoy your yt channels sean👍👍
Thanks for checking out my videos. I appreciate it. I actually responded to your post years ago, but ALL of my replies were deleted when I transferred my channel to a branding account,
www.seansoutdooradventures.com
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so I am going back through and replying to all old comments so they stop popping up in my unanswered post column on my TH-cam studio. As you can see, I included some links to my social media stuff in case you are interested in checking any of it out. Thanks for your patience with this process. God bless you.
Where do I go to check out the book you mention? Do you have an email address I can request additional information?
I use this video repeatedly to assist in my tuning. THE best on TH-cam.!
Website
got mine tuned up thanks to you buddy!
That is great!
Hey Sean, a buddy of mine just picked up a 2014 Hoyt Charger and the let off is insane. Too insane, to the point I think something is up. Is there a process to timing the cam and a half?
Hey Sean, I watched your video a few times over. You have great information, and it really helped get my Carbon Overdrive shooting bullets (if I could add a picture I'd show you). However, with the Hoyt Charger, there is only a draw stop on the bottom cam, which is making contact. Left to right is good, getting a high tear with a biscuit, arrow straight down berger hole with only a touch of a back end lift due to the d-loop. It is maybe a couple millimeters high. Do you think I should drop the d-loop to parallel? The lack of vertical adjustment on the biscuit is definitely annoying.
Thanks for your help!
Yes twisting the cable
My 70lbs Hoyt is reading only 66lbs with the limbs tighten all the way... I should take off some twist from the string? (Timing is perfect)
You can try that and see what that gives you. Depending on how much weight change and change to draw length you may also need to add twist to the cables.
@@seansoutdoors alright I'll try that thanks 😊
Good luck with it.
But by some bows like my one where you nock the arrow is much higher over center so you need a positive tiller to compensate that right? Pls answer it would help
I usually keep the knock close to center. There have been times I've had to modify the tiller to get perfect arrow flight.
Ok
god bless you and your family have happy holidays
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After this season I will tune in this method. Do you recommend I do this with a new set of strings?
Sean thanks. My struggle is that I dont have a good press. Currently I use a portable press which is good for small jobs but just too timely for larger jobs. Again, i appreciate your feedback.
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so say to change your draw stop you take out a couple twist of the bus cable; then you run into cam lean... how do you correct one without affecting the other?
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Is it true that 8 turns is maximum for draw weight reduction? seems like a lot, and at 3 lbs per turn that equals 18 lbs?
Depends on the brand
Hey Sean, I've watched your videos for awhile and i keep finding myself coming back to this particular video ,one because I shoot a hoyt , i have a couple questions regarding my particular hoyt, which is a 2007 Vulcan 500 , 33" axle to axle, draw length 28", set at 65lbs , i put new strings and cables on it last week ,got it timed and got the tiller to match both limbs , i put a QAD ultra rest on it a few years ago , before I replaced my strings I was getting a right tear through paper , after I replaced my strings I set my knock point at 90 degrees on the string , i was getting a high tear , my rest was all the up as far as it would go , so i lowered my knock point , shooting bullet holes through paper but i noticed the front of my arrow running up hill a bit , is this normal , sorry for all info , but i could really use some input since you shoot hoyts
No it is not normal. Check to see if the cable is going through the spot on the cam that it should. I believe back then they had a little hole in the cam that you should be able to see the cable through that hole. If your arrow is pointing up, your cam rotation may be off a little causing it to impact the flight. When you set the timing, did you tighten the limb bolts all the way down? If not, then you could have some rotation things a little out even if the stops are hitting in time. Basically, I'd tighten them all the way down and just check the draw stop timing (ignore tiller for now). Once all that is on, paper tune at peak weight. Then back it down to your desired weight, check the timing again, and then see if your are still hitting well through paper. (Sometimes with a hybrid cam the tiller could measure a little off depending on the situation because the cams are not identical. It really all depends, so the tiller isn't the absolute biggest concern with a hybrid cam.) Also, when paper tuning, move back and shoot at several distances to see if you are still getting bullets. Sometimes you can think you are getting bullet holes but it is just where you are standing the arrow is at a certain flex coming off of the bow. Also, make sure you have the right spined arrow for your setup. God bless ya.
Sean's Outdoor Adventures thanks Sean I appreciate your response ,it has the Vector Cam & 1/2 , i will give it a try, i appreciate all you do for us , God bless you too
Thanks, Steven, God bless you too! Best of luck
Hey Sean, just talked to Hoyt, tech said that after everything is said and done with arrow at 90 degrees with the bow string and cam draw stops hitting correctly and I'm still getting a nock high tear ,that I need to advance my top cam so the top draw STOP hits before the lower stop , does this sound accurate to you
Yeah that is one way to get good nock travel but it can also give you a less than desirable back wall. It will be softer and also you could experience variations depending on if you are pulling through to get the second stop to hit as well, or are just stopping at the first contact. That's also why I like the Xpedition hybrid cam system over the hoyts. With Hoyts you can't adjust for vertical nock travel and then move the draw stop pegs to compensate for the change like you can with the Xpedition bows th-cam.com/video/ymuKegWPJ5I/w-d-xo.html. Although I haven't done it, I guess you could also try changing the tiller on the top limb and then readjusting the draw stop timing to hit dead on and see if that change in limb angle and cam angle will do it. Let me know what you do and what works for you. God bless ya.
For the cam timing portion of the video, you incorrectly stated which cables need twisting. If the top cam is under rotated as you show in the video, you should take twists out of the control cable or put twist in the buss cable. You stated that you should take twist out of the buss cable which is incorrect. However, when you showed taking twists out of the cables in the next scene while the bow was on the press, you took twists out of the control cable. I think this should be clarified.
Yeah, Chad, I had clarified that after I realized it after posting the video, and I put text cards up on the video to identify that, but TH-cam has since done away with those. I made a mention in the description section how I switched the terms accidentally. Maybe some day I will be able to etch some time into my schedule to re-do the video. God bless you.
Sean, you did a good job with the video, I just wanted to make sure people weren't confused. I hope you didn't take offense to my comments. Keep up the good work.
No offense at all. I don't claim to be perfect and although I tried I still mixed up my terminology when filming. I wish it allowed you to edit a video once it is uploaded like this but it doesn't. Anyway, thanks for watching and God bless you.
I closed the twist and the gap on the other cam became bigger. So i opened it and now its fine. So do we need to open or close the twist?
I am not understanding your question.
Great video helped me a lot, thanks
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thank you so much for that video that was great information
Thank you I have a factor 34 I need to learn how to tune it I appreciate all your help
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Compound bows are an obsessive/compulsive's delight. You can fiddle forever to get it juuuuuust right. Drag it to your man cave and spend a whole evening LOL.
Yes
bow shop here didnt do any of that they put new strings and cables on didnt tell me to shoot 200 arrows to break in string and cable didnt tell me to come back for tune when i asked about tune they said it took to long if i had a problem bring it back to them sounds like a sorry bow shop would you agree
Yup, I agree.
Many many thanks
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I have to try this. thank you
Thanks for checking out my videos. I appreciate it. God bless you.
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Outstanding job keep up the good work! :)
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excelent video, thanks!
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how do i adjust draw weight for a hoyt compound bow xt2000
Turn limb bolts
Do a single cam bow please , I have a pse bowmadness 2013 and it is single cam and I am looking for the best way to tune it
I don't currently have a video on a single cam tuning, and i don't have one to do as an example, but I will try to think of something to do for it. God bless you.
Awsome I'll try that , thanks for the reply
You are welcome. Good luck
Love the video, I am subscribing,
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Great video!
***** I am trying to tune my carbon element with the fuel cam. I have a little left cam lean. Center shot is perfect after walk back tuning. My fixed boradheads are hitting about 5 inches to the right of my field tips at 40 yards. Also I perform bare shaft tuning and my bare shaft is about 6 inches left of my fletched arrows at 20 yards. What would you try to make the fixed blade broadhead shoot closer of my field tipped arrows?
I will appreciate any of your tips!. Do you thing i should start with correcting the Cam lean or adjust the rest to the right?,,
Thank You!
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thx helped a lot.
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Tuning a bow is the hardest thing for me to understand. I don't get why it is. Someone help me please .....
Lord, Jesus, please help Josh understand what to do to tune his bow, Amen.
@@seansoutdoors Thank you. Your videos are the best resource I've found so far
i love your videos and i am not trying to be a jerk but that was not the buss cable you adjusted it was the control cable .
Yes, I realized that later on after I posted the video which is why I explained it in the description section, but you are totally right. I called it by the wrong name. Sorry about that.
thanks a lot
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His jawbones are so sharp it can cause major bleeding if you dare to touch them =D
Sorry if you misunderstood it for being an insult. More like the other way around :) would rather have that manly cheekbones than the opposite, and hey girls like sharp jawlines. Interesting story you told aswell, glad it worked out well. Be proud of that sharpness and that it has a story behind makes it even better man. Thanks for an informative video, had pressed the thumbs up because of that. Cheers from Sweden fellow bowyer
***** You are correct on that. Its hard to know wether people are being serious or not over the internet. Some smileys work but mine on the first comment wasnt clear enough :P
Personally if I thought someone looked funny or w/e I would NOT write anything about it and insult the person, cause thats not who I am and what I like to do. But there are people that likes to insult people look etc and therefore, like you said, dont think before they write stuff. But like you said, you dont know me and therefore won't know in wich way I mean things :) Glad you wrote your first comment tho so I could clear my point.
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anyone know of an aftermarket or diy DL string stop? back wall is awful.
sorry....this is about the Ignite...not hoyts entire line.
Thanks for checking out my videos. I appreciate it. God bless you.
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Sorry no one had an answer
i meant cam timing is pretty SPOT on…
Dear Sean,
I suspected a underpinned arrow and i got GT arrows with a 300 spine. As per the GT spine table, since the bow is IBO in excess of 345 I should be using 300 spine with a 28-29inc DL with a 100gr tip. I am still getting this bloody tear with the point hitting RHS and a little bit on the lower side. I have been playing around with the different setups and could not get proper arrow flight. I also reduce the bow weight but didn't help much…
As mentioned previously mentioned the timing between the cams is perfect. The only thing i could pick up is a slight lean in the top cam, i.e. the LHS limb is a little bit lower than the RHS. I will be doing the necessary for this in a near future. until then would you have any clue about what could be going wrong.
many thanks
***** Many thanks Sean… will keep you posted.
Cheers
+TheBlackicehunter
Dear Sean, one last clarification: the string as it stands between the two cams is actually not in the centerline of the bow. its sits on the LHS of both thentop and the bottom cam, meaning that if the arrow is to be square with the entire bow, it would be a little bit onnthe LHS of the shelf- right?
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A OK
ok
your limb bolts are not maxed out, just saying
I did the tuning at peak weight prier to this phase of the video, which I talked about in the video, which is also why I was talking about peak weight in the past tense at 4:35, just saying. God bless ya.
Sean's Outdoor Adventures
okay, good video looking forward to seeing new videos. thanks
Great, thanks. I'm uploading a video right now. God bless ya :-)
And my powermax still tunes nock low lol
That's annoying.
@@seansoutdoors ever had this issue?