Second! But hey, Crazy Framer, thanks for all you do! You're obviously not just a crazy good framer, you're also a good teacher. I appreciate your videos and have been studying them!
I love the fact that everything he utters is to the point. He doesn't use any fillers / smalltalk to just fill up video time like most channels do. "Here's how I build a wall. Wall built. Beer time." Love it!
Could you do a video on the actual lay out of the walls where you're snapping lines and checking square? Would love to see how the crazy framer does it. Keep up the good work!!!
Great job of explanation Framer, I am old school and we used to do XBX for the inside corner blockers and XPX for the partitions running into another wall. You do save a stud and do not have to put the blocks in. This method is probably faster and save lumber. Thanks for the great video, love your channel!!!!
I had the same square for a few months... Really liked the bigger T bar for chamfered junk 2xs etc. Took a file to the top scale every quarter inch for ripping / scribing. Eventually though the coating wore off...couldn't read degrees and pitch numbers. Went back to old school swanson with the diamond. Classic.
Nice. I pretty much figured out the up-down from watching your other videos but thanks for the explanation. Perfect for doing the layout when somebody else is banging the walls.
I had an "Oh! Duh!" moment when you explained Up/Down. I'm watching because I used to renovate houses 25 years ago and still get twitchy that I'm not working on a house. But it was in the UK where houses are brick, not timber, and I was mostly repairing lath & plaster, rather than fitting drywall. So it's great seeing you dig in to getting it done, and yours is a trade I barely know.
Nastiest job I ever had to do was to replace a lath and plaster ceiling in a house where the floor above had been inhabited by dozens of cats and dogs. Imagine pulling that down, separating the lath from the plaster so you could barrow it out, and the whole lot reeking. Once in a lifetime was enough!
good idea with the 2x6 up and down to give the inner corner backing, we go around adding timber afterwards, sound tip, im thinking of heading to west side of canada from uk to work as a framer around january im hoping there work that time of year.
Great videos, Crazy! A suggestion (maybe you've covered this elsewhere) ... More than just showing *what* you're doing, highlight on the drawing each wall/feature that you're framing to explain *why* you're doing what you're doing.
I think I'm about ready to start framing my own house lol. Definitely helpful. Although I was hoping the video would be longer so I could watch you nail it all together. #TimeForABeer
@@ThecrazyframerOh yeah, as a non carpenter I've heard about that building technique elsewhere on the internet before. I bet the structure is slightly sturdier doing that too.
Wish we could top and bottom nail like you Canucks! We are required to toenail or studs into the shoes and plates. Either or, interesting style of framing up therere!
Really? That's odd. I here in Michigan, US that they're required to toenail their studs to the top and bottom plate when framing walls because it's "stronger" that way. I don't think so. Their building codes are a bit weird to me, but half of the building codes overall is weird bs that's been pushed by lobbyists for their building products.
You were mentioning in this that there's overhang on the top plates but they look like they've already been cut here. Where does the extra length come from?
At 6:45 you say you need "to put studs on top of every joist". Why do they have to be exactly on top of the joists? I thought the bottom 2x4 plus the sheeting would be enough to spread the load of the wall across the joists regardless of where the studs are located. (Is it specifically a load-bearing wall in the blueprints?) Also, joists are 24 inches on center, and I thought wall studs had to be 16 inches on center?
Steven Swenson stack studs over joists to help other trades when the studs fall over the joist. Like havoc,plumbing,electrical. Depending on what you are building stud spacing is typically 16”,19.2” or 24. Usually with 24” oc you have to stack everything floor - trusses/rafters. His joists are 19.2 layout. That’s why walls perpendicular to joists he stack with layout 19.2 and parallel walls he goes 24”.
IRC says you cannot be more than 1.5" off of the center of the joist below on a load bearing wall. Stacking them is typically the goal. Sometimes it doesn't line up exactly but in this case he does awesome work; they'll hit their mark.
The interior wall parallel to the bearing wall has stud layout on the joist. Or is it all walls parallel? Is it considered bearing all the way down? Does it have to stack?
So true and often overlooked. Imagine your HVAC guy trying to run a 2x10 duct up from the first floor. He’s in the bay space on the first floor and then, bang, he hits a stud trying to carry his run up to the second floor ceiling. The other bad thing is when a framer nails the top plate wherever he feels like instead of over a stud. The next trade though the door kills a bit or a blade because he hit a nail or screw that was in the middle of a bay space. Love your videos.
Homes like this uses trusses, and all roof loads goes to tge exterior walls down to foundation. Stack studs at joist make easy work for other trades as well making it easy later on to cut out cold air return and plumbing holes.
At 5:21 I must be missing something? There is no where to put the drywall on the inside corner? 2x4 UP on the corner; but there is no where to put drywall on the inside corner. Is anyone noticing this? Is there a reason for it?
Scott Petrock that’s because you start and end a wall with a 2x4 stud. The small wall without the 2x4 up you are looking at will start with a stud in the corner.
Problem with if he were black??? SMH I'm a black Carpenter and I'm so sick of the color shit man. Deal with that shit damn near every fucking day. People have a problem when a black man is doing something other than a fucking laborer on the job site. I don't give a damn if he was green his race is besides the point. Sorry for venting....
Great work mate. Do it a little different here. We have horizontal bridging at 1200 from floor height I use 4x2 block set at spacing for 450mm centre or 600mm centre and on corners do stud block stud and where wall comes in to wall say where that hotpress is just stud then 4x2 and other stud for dry wall. So no need to use square just the 4x2 block to mark out everything. We used the same method in Australia also. No need to use 6x2 at all. Only if a header across door is wider than 1metre. Good work though.
Engineered floor trusses usually have 5 spans per 8', instead of the stick built 4 spans per 8'. This is the reasoning behind the 19.2, you wouldn't normally use the 19.2 for drywall. Your standard 16 or 24 oc still apply there. Hope this helps.
Thanks for clearing that up. Keep em comin!!!
Good job.
Second! But hey, Crazy Framer, thanks for all you do! You're obviously not just a crazy good framer, you're also a good teacher. I appreciate your videos and have been studying them!
I'll second that.
I love the fact that everything he utters is to the point. He doesn't use any fillers / smalltalk to just fill up video time like most channels do. "Here's how I build a wall. Wall built. Beer time." Love it!
Could you do a video on the actual lay out of the walls where you're snapping lines and checking square? Would love to see how the crazy framer does it. Keep up the good work!!!
I have literally zero carpentry experience and have literally zero plans to ever do any of this, but I love watching it. =)
You DNT need experience a little smidge then you can educate your self with limitless knowledge
Good explanation. The most important thing to remember is no matter how you mark them make sure everyone knows exactly what the marks mean.
I never know why I'm here, and I'll never do anything close to this, but omg I love these videos and wait patiently for them everyday!
You are quickly turning into the Fred Dibnah of stick framing. Keep it up!
You’re killing it, kid. Great work!
Great job of explanation Framer, I am old school and we used to do XBX for the inside corner blockers and XPX for the partitions running into another wall. You do save a stud and do not have to put the blocks in. This method is probably faster and save lumber. Thanks for the great video, love your channel!!!!
Boy loves his beer! Very nice.
Loved this video very educational!! You’re an excellent teacher 💕🙋♀️
I am smarter now... and happy you finally got a new square.
Dude u do great work
Keep it up man
This video educated me
These videos are awesome. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
I had the same square for a few months... Really liked the bigger T bar for chamfered junk 2xs etc. Took a file to the top scale every quarter inch for ripping / scribing. Eventually though the coating wore off...couldn't read degrees and pitch numbers. Went back to old school swanson with the diamond. Classic.
This is an old thread, but Swansons are where it's at! They're much more affordable than a freaking Martinez square that's for sure.
Nice. I pretty much figured out the up-down from watching your other videos but thanks for the explanation. Perfect for doing the layout when somebody else is banging the walls.
HEY!!new speed square. Another great video. Keep up the great work. U don't play around ! 🔨
Another well explained video, nice details. Will you be showing how you square out your walls with one guy doing lay out. Keep up the great work.
You should make a video on what you carry in your tool belt.
why? you gay?
@@1dogpobo why do you ask?
Hi has a toolbelt tour video already.
Crazy Framer does not support gays nor do i
He finally got a new speed square! I use the same so i obviously made a good choice when i got mine a few months ago lol
I had an "Oh! Duh!" moment when you explained Up/Down. I'm watching because I used to renovate houses 25 years ago and still get twitchy that I'm not working on a house. But it was in the UK where houses are brick, not timber, and I was mostly repairing lath & plaster, rather than fitting drywall. So it's great seeing you dig in to getting it done, and yours is a trade I barely know.
Nastiest job I ever had to do was to replace a lath and plaster ceiling in a house where the floor above had been inhabited by dozens of cats and dogs. Imagine pulling that down, separating the lath from the plaster so you could barrow it out, and the whole lot reeking. Once in a lifetime was enough!
tool bag review time! great vid
Can you also show other ways to make corners and partitions?
good idea with the 2x6 up and down to give the inner corner backing, we go around adding timber afterwards, sound tip, im thinking of heading to west side of canada from uk to work as a framer around january im hoping there work that time of year.
6 year update?!?! Lol
Great videos, Crazy!
A suggestion (maybe you've covered this elsewhere) ...
More than just showing *what* you're doing, highlight on the drawing each wall/feature that you're framing to explain *why* you're doing what you're doing.
I think I'm about ready to start framing my own house lol. Definitely helpful. Although I was hoping the video would be longer so I could watch you nail it all together. #TimeForABeer
these videos are awesome! Pleas keep 'em comming
Hey, you got a new square! Nice.
Ray Zickrick Good eye i didn't catch that and thought I was paying attention !;-)
Irvin, 27 years in a power plant, I tend to notice change. A 'trained observer' you might say. ;)
Ray Zickrick he saw mine and wanted to be the only other guy on the job not wondering if they had the right square haha
Why 19.2 for the stud layout on the straight wall? Would it not be 16's O C?
The floor joists are on 19.2” layout. I line the studs up with the joists so the other trades can run mechanical through it.
@@ThecrazyframerOh yeah, as a non carpenter I've heard about that building technique elsewhere on the internet before. I bet the structure is slightly sturdier doing that too.
Now you're talking, Thanks for the vids.
Never seen anyone use backers like that when framing interior partions we usually just use 3 2x4s in a u shape
GREAT explanation, well done!!
Wish we could top and bottom nail like you Canucks! We are required to toenail or studs into the shoes and plates. Either or, interesting style of framing up therere!
Really? That's odd. I here in Michigan, US that they're required to toenail their studs to the top and bottom plate when framing walls because it's "stronger" that way. I don't think so. Their building codes are a bit weird to me, but half of the building codes overall is weird bs that's been pushed by lobbyists for their building products.
Muito bom, gostaria de aprender essa profissão
looks like you got a new speed square
U know your shyt good job man.
can you do a video on reading prints
Hey The Crazy Framer... Can I come up and help you frame?
You are f*€
Hey do you have to firestop those stair stringers? Or does insulation cover that code, because it's an exterior wall
You were mentioning in this that there's overhang on the top plates but they look like they've already been cut here. Where does the extra length come from?
another plate will go over them making for 2 pieces of wood on top of each wall
At 6:45 you say you need "to put studs on top of every joist". Why do they have to be exactly on top of the joists? I thought the bottom 2x4 plus the sheeting would be enough to spread the load of the wall across the joists regardless of where the studs are located. (Is it specifically a load-bearing wall in the blueprints?) Also, joists are 24 inches on center, and I thought wall studs had to be 16 inches on center?
Steven Swenson stack studs over joists to help other trades when the studs fall over the joist. Like havoc,plumbing,electrical. Depending on what you are building stud spacing is typically 16”,19.2” or 24. Usually with 24” oc you have to stack everything floor - trusses/rafters. His joists are 19.2 layout. That’s why walls perpendicular to joists he stack with layout 19.2 and parallel walls he goes 24”.
IRC says you cannot be more than 1.5" off of the center of the joist below on a load bearing wall. Stacking them is typically the goal. Sometimes it doesn't line up exactly but in this case he does awesome work; they'll hit their mark.
The interior wall parallel to the bearing wall has stud layout on the joist. Or is it all walls parallel? Is it considered bearing all the way down? Does it have to stack?
I stack the studs when I can, but not for load bearing reasons. It's so it's easier for the other trades to run mechanical and plumbing through .
So true and often overlooked. Imagine your HVAC guy trying to run a 2x10 duct up from the first floor. He’s in the bay space on the first floor and then, bang, he hits a stud trying to carry his run up to the second floor ceiling. The other bad thing is when a framer nails the top plate wherever he feels like instead of over a stud. The next trade though the door kills a bit or a blade because he hit a nail or screw that was in the middle of a bay space.
Love your videos.
Homes like this uses trusses, and all roof loads goes to tge exterior walls down to foundation. Stack studs at joist make easy work for other trades as well making it easy later on to cut out cold air return and plumbing holes.
I bet the other trades fight over getting to follow you.
At 5:21 I must be missing something? There is no where to put the drywall on the inside corner? 2x4 UP on the corner; but there is no where to put drywall on the inside corner.
Is anyone noticing this? Is there a reason for it?
Scott Petrock that’s because you start and end a wall with a 2x4 stud. The small wall without the 2x4 up you are looking at will start with a stud in the corner.
Grasias amigo
Lol this left me more confused. But, that's good it means I'm learning. :)
When u turn black?
Jay Burton Dang dude
Problem with if he were black??? SMH I'm a black Carpenter and I'm so sick of the color shit man. Deal with that shit damn near every fucking day. People have a problem when a black man is doing something other than a fucking laborer on the job site. I don't give a damn if he was green his race is besides the point. Sorry for venting....
brandon baisden I thought he was White. You need to chill black dude
Daniel 69 I need to chill huh lol ok
Daniel 69 9
Great work mate. Do it a little different here. We have horizontal bridging at 1200 from floor height I use 4x2 block set at spacing for 450mm centre or 600mm centre and on corners do stud block stud and where wall comes in to wall say where that hotpress is just stud then 4x2 and other stud for dry wall. So no need to use square just the 4x2 block to mark out everything. We used the same method in Australia also. No need to use 6x2 at all. Only if a header across door is wider than 1metre. Good work though.
What country and these Works?
How long have you been working on this house?
This guy is awesome... so I am guessing it has only been a few days based on his previous vids.
Interesting, didn’t realise Canada use imperial measurements for building, thought they were metric
Why 19.2 spacing? I’ve never seen that before doesn’t work very well with drywall
19.2 is what they engineered the joists at. Then I put the studs on top of the joists.
It work with 8ft drywall. 19.2x5=???? But new home nowaday rarely used 8ft dry wall. They get long 16fts so there is rarely any butt joints
Sometimes we do 4’ stand up sheets in closets. Doesn’t work with 19.2
Engineered floor trusses usually have 5 spans per 8', instead of the stick built 4 spans per 8'. This is the reasoning behind the 19.2, you wouldn't normally use the 19.2 for drywall. Your standard 16 or 24 oc still apply there. Hope this helps.
Agreed, 19.2 is special situation Only there is no need to frame regular partition using 19.2
Did you get a new square lol
4 min mark is where I usually mess up, by flipping the play and not realizing I did so
Super!!!
2x4s up all day blood
New speed square
I like the way you frame it why don't you ever get a Helper I mean I don't understand that part why hurt your back the way you do
No helper has the heart to do what he does.
Hi
О новый угольник.
!;-) Thankyou
the quality hurts my eyes. All others have been great quality.
Yeah I didn't get good lumber on this house. I'll make it work though.
haha no man, the video quality. it was showing at 144p!. but now it seems better? weird.
im scared of woddenhouses
Pretty much every house ever is wood?
In England all houses are brick houses , maybe the floors are wooden but I still don't fuck with it
during an earthquake: wooden structure is way superior
Here in the Caribbean its strictly concrete. a hurricane would turn those wood frame houses into splinters
fuq i miss the trade. eh :( ..Gud Video ! boi :)
I didn't understand a word you said
If you could just explain everything a bit quicker... Thanks
First!
He just confused me lol