Thank you for your great review. I received mine #4090 several weeks ago and it is still on my layout. I am having too much fun with it and I think my diesel locomotives are getting jealous.
CV 29 has a bit that allows the decoder to determine if DC (analog) or DCC(digital) signal is being presented. The loco could get confused on a quick restart and think the signal is DC. DCC voltage levels are high and would set the loco at full throttle before the decoder makes the correction. Go into CV 29 and turn off the analog option. Search the web for the Digitrax CV calculator to create the new CV value. BTW, this happens with other decoders as well. It freaked me out when it happened to me as I had a full throttle run-a-way locomotive.
@10:38 - Sierra Pacific Lines refer - I noticed because I have some of those I'm in the process of restoring as the original owner botched assembling the kits.
I wouldn’t imagine that I will would watch a review about train models on YT But here is me. There is a little kid heart inside u Just like this little train. Your thumbnail was what being me here. Nice formations , I like them all.
Had this issue with a few DCC Sound locos I have at a club layout. Basically it will happen when the loco gets a power spike from a location where there is two power sections meeting. It does no damage but can sometime reset your loco.
Nice review. I have the same switcher version (#4023) and run it via NCE power cab, I have found if you press the emergency stop button the loco stops immediately and resumes as normal when power is re-applied, it disables the keep alive. The problem will occur if you loose track power either via a short or turning off supply as the system will see this as dirty track etc, all my locos that have a keep alive system operate this way, in fact the BLI Mikado is the only one that shuts down on the emergency button, the others continue. (which is a concern as it removes this emergency function) I have had no sound issues as yet. (time will tell) I stayed away from Paragon 3 for the well documented motor control and sound issues. Regards Gary
@@Flying_Goose Its actually quite simple after learning how to. I think you should watch this video instead of me typing it all out. I hope this helps th-cam.com/video/Esbj956Wz3Q/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=RRBOB
I have mostly been a athern guy since I got into model trains in 2023. I have a athern mikado I am working on but I think I might get one of these since I see them at the train shop and I am really impressed with the level of details on it. I definitely hope to get one in the future and I am really impressed seeing how bli is improving features of the models when they end up raising the price unlike athern where the new mt4 costs $200-$300 more and there isn’t to much to justify that price hike. Great review as always.
Great job! 4K video is sweet! I would suggest; If you review Paragon 3/4 locos with the Rolling Thunder system compatibility, the Rolling Thunder system is a must!
I’ve had the same problem with the sound with a diesel on my layout one day. I could ring the bell blow the horn but the engine would not give a sound. I took it off the layout put it back on and it was fine. It’s a digitrax sound bug on a digitrax DCC system and it has only happened once. I think in my case it had to do with dirty wheels/track as a day later my switcher wouldn’t even run around the main line. Maybe it’s just the dirty track that causes all the problems you were having? Just some thoughts. Thanks a lot for this video man! I was actually thinking about putting these in my wish list and I can say this video has made it a definite yes!
Glad I helped make the right decision! That issue sounds the same. It’s tough to tell, only 1 engine did it so it could be the engine, but other engines that had tsunami 2 and esu were experiencing different issues, so it could be layout. I couldn’t replicate it on my home Digitrax layout. The club layout is also Digitrax. But who knows, I may contact BLI if the issue becomes consistent.
This is an impressive steam locomotive, the ATSF mikado is a great addition to the new paragon4 line. I hope that BLI has eliminated the performance quality function issues with the decoders from the paragon3 series.
Unfortunately the Paragon 4 whistles and chuffs still trail the competition from ESU, SoundTraxx, and TCS. Really nice looking and seems to run smooth, but the sounds are a C- at best for me.
From what I’ve gathered, the Santa Fe 2-8-2’s and Dreyfus Hudsons all the decoders are is a paragon 3 with a built in go pack. I’ve heard samples from the FEf-3’s and it’s new chuff sounds and sounds beautiful.
I had an issue with mine too, the smoke unit quit working after 2 hours. The element is still on, so smoke slowly streams out, but the fan quit working, so puffing smoke. I did a factory reset on it, thinking it might fix the issue, but my nce controller said short circuit detected. It still works fine other than the smoke, so I guess I'll run it without the smoke.
Our club Corona Model Railroad Society has two of these otherwise outstanding locomotives. Our only issues is that if derailed or shorted the headlight goes out and cannot be restored except by removing power completely and reapplying the headlight function. Any other way of relighting the headlight short of killing power? Thanks.
The Model Railroad Club inc in Union, NJ. Their website is in the video description. Check them out! Such a beautiful layout with so much more under construction!
Good old Broadway, carries over the same hardware but adds just a few new sound files to claim that they've "fixed" major issues, crappy electronics as usual I see. Guess that means I won't be purchasing anything Paragon 4 related from BLI, I'll be sure to spread this news to our club.
There is a 9 pin plug between the tender and engine (the same plugs you’ll see on other Broadway limited models). Once you unplug that plug and remove the tender from the drawbar then the engine and tender will separate.
Overnight I have a question and it is that I have 4023 and it stopped chuffing so I took it off the track and put it back on 30 seconds but the chuffing never came back to 4023. Is it possible you could help?
I would open the tender, and use the reset button first. In the instructions manual there should be a section on how to use the reset button. If that doesn’t work, might be a broken reed switch inside the engine, in front of the flywheel on the motor
I've only done some running with my 4023 on my switching layout, only negative issue, so far, is that the wheels have to rotate several times before the chuff is heard. Wondering if a CV function setting could improve on that? I have yet to try the smoke unit and make any cosmetic improvements. Soon I will be taking it to a friends layout for a good running on a large layout with as many cars as it can pull. Regardless this engine is a beautiful model and Broadway should get a good pat on the back for what they have done. And thank you for a professional video review....!
Try CV 196. According to the technical reference manual, this controls the steam cocks event count. Default is 2. So I’m assuming setting CV 196=0 should turn it off, meaning you should get the chuff instantly. Hope this helps!
Put it in Pro Lighting Mode so you can control all the lights individually. I find the auto cab light on/off to be unprototypical to the max and really irritating. If you use Pro Mode, the manual forgets to tell you about setting CV 243. Very important or your lights might not work properly. Why they didn't use one mode and eliminate some of the totally useless (IMHO) sounds from F 14 to F 21, I'll never understand. If you use Pro Mode you will lose the coupler sound function and a few others that are much more useful and will have to re-map these functions back in. But I do love being able to turn the cab light on and off and controlling the other lights individually particularly in switching operations.
I’m asking this about 3 years too late but if you could let me know that would be great I am looking for a caboose just like that and I have found a few, however I have searched everywhere for one with those lanterns and I can’t find one to save my life. I also cant find just the lanterns to custom install on a caboose. So my question is, how or where do I find a caboose just like the one in this video with the lanterns? Also I love your content and yes I did click on this to see the review of the loco (amazing review btw) however I couldn’t help but note that wonderful caboose Thank you so much and I hope this message finds you well
Thanks for the comment, I custom did those lanterns. The caboose is a Centralia car shops Santa Fe caboose. Pretty hard to find, I found mine at a California train show for I believe $45-50. What’s nice about them is the lanterns holes are pretty much “pre drilled” but you have to drill through the holes for the lanterns. The lanterns are Cal Scale. They have a couple of options. Use a #62 drill bit to drill out the holes of the lantern and 1 hole from the bottom for the LED to fit in.
Well damn, I hope the Paragon 3 gremlins haven't migrated into the Paragon 4's. I love the build quality, love the detail, just don't love the Paragon 3 gremlins.
Beautiful models. Unfortunately I model Raton Pass and these 2-8-2's were not seen there. As it is I have a few of BLI's 2-10-2's including one modified 2-10-4 to model the 3829 which was a regular on the Pass. My question is all of BLI's earlier models had the option of getting rid of the traction tire-equipped driver and replacing it with a regular driver. While this would reduce the model's tractive effort on grades, it allows for wheel slip that could be more beneficial to the model as a complete stall which a traction tire could cause could blow critical components on the engine. I also like the need for adding additional locomotives and helpers to get trains over my 3 percent grade, just like on the prototype. Are regular replacement drivers without the traction tire available? By the way, I'm a member of the NYSME in Carlstadt.
In modeling, I’ve learned “never say never.” Although these were designed for freight use, I can’t say these never pulled a passenger train ever. I’m sure it happened whether it was photographed or not.
The whistles still suck compared to TCS WOW sound decoders. And the smoke can’t touch MTH. BLI continues to disappoint regardless of their attempts at improvements. The most disappointing point is the abysmal positioning of the eccentric cranks! With the exception of a few samples, their eccentric cranks barely move which is one of the main joys of watching steam locomotive running gear! BLI models look ok but still fall behind Athearn genesis! BLI still has lots of work to do before I’ll spend $500 on their locos!
@@Curious_Skeptic hi. MTH has been sold to Scaletrains Inc. Scaletrains hasn’t released any steam locos yet but I’ve been told they will be like the trusty MTH locos-same tooling and patents! Meanwhile you can find used MTH locos and you’ll see what I’m talking about. I’d recommend their first offering, the K4 Pacific. Excellent whistle and smoke and perfect eccentric rod movement. Same for their Mikado. Actually, all are excellent except for the J Class-kinda disappointed with how it looked. MTH looks great but BLI sometimes wins in that department. But BLI’s crappy eccentric crank modeling and weak smoke/chuff rendering ruins any edge they may have. MTH is a clear winner!
These train videos are worth filming n investing into as family entertainment n more new videos every weekend
Thank you for your great review. I received mine #4090 several weeks ago and it is still on my layout. I am having too much fun with it and I think my diesel locomotives are getting jealous.
CV 29 has a bit that allows the decoder to determine if DC (analog) or DCC(digital) signal is being presented. The loco could get confused on a quick restart and think the signal is DC. DCC voltage levels are high and would set the loco at full throttle before the decoder makes the correction. Go into CV 29 and turn off the analog option. Search the web for the Digitrax CV calculator to create the new CV value. BTW, this happens with other decoders as well. It freaked me out when it happened to me as I had a full throttle run-a-way locomotive.
@10:38 - Sierra Pacific Lines refer - I noticed because I have some of those I'm in the process of restoring as the original owner botched assembling the kits.
Great eye! I hope you get them built! I built this one in 2019 and bought it from the Roseville Train show in California.
I wouldn’t imagine that I will would
watch a review about train models on YT
But here is me.
There is a little kid heart inside u
Just like this little train.
Your thumbnail was what being me here.
Nice formations , I like them all.
Thanks for the kind words, keeps me encouraged to do more! And yes, we all have that little kid heart inside for trains.
Nice I didn't know you were a member of the club lol great review and love the Broadway Limited steam and at least we found where it was derailing
That last scene at Hills Hardware, where the road rises up beside the curve of the line! Thats gorgeous!
Thank you for sharing
Had this issue with a few DCC Sound locos I have at a club layout. Basically it will happen when the loco gets a power spike from a location where there is two power sections meeting. It does no damage but can sometime reset your loco.
Nice review.
I have the same switcher version (#4023) and run it via NCE power cab, I have found if you press the emergency stop button the loco stops immediately and resumes as normal when power is re-applied, it disables the keep alive.
The problem will occur if you loose track power either via a short or turning off supply as the system will see this as dirty track etc, all my locos that have a keep alive system operate this way, in fact the BLI Mikado is the only one that shuts down on the emergency button, the others continue. (which is a concern as it removes this emergency function)
I have had no sound issues as yet. (time will tell) I stayed away from Paragon 3 for the well documented motor control and sound issues.
Regards
Gary
Very nice review! They look like superb models
Sweet bro great review
I love this layout! Especially the double heading freight train. The locomotives on the other hand are awesome too.
Very solid review Travis! Great seeing the thing in action at the club last Saturday
I wonder how you make it so the cab light always on. Overnight is it possible to make a tutorial on making the light on the cab turn on always?
Change CV 208 = 255
But how do you do that with the controller? Idk how to change it
@@Flying_Goose what DCC system do you have?
The power cab
@@Flying_Goose Its actually quite simple after learning how to. I think you should watch this video instead of me typing it all out. I hope this helps th-cam.com/video/Esbj956Wz3Q/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=RRBOB
I have mostly been a athern guy since I got into model trains in 2023. I have a athern mikado I am working on but I think I might get one of these since I see them at the train shop and I am really impressed with the level of details on it. I definitely hope to get one in the future and I am really impressed seeing how bli is improving features of the models when they end up raising the price unlike athern where the new mt4 costs $200-$300 more and there isn’t to much to justify that price hike. Great review as always.
The 3759 has a gorgeous 6 chime whistle sound
Great job! 4K video is sweet! I would suggest; If you review Paragon 3/4 locos with the Rolling Thunder system compatibility, the Rolling Thunder system is a must!
Excellent High Quality
I’ve had the same problem with the sound with a diesel on my layout one day. I could ring the bell blow the horn but the engine would not give a sound. I took it off the layout put it back on and it was fine. It’s a digitrax sound bug on a digitrax DCC system and it has only happened once. I think in my case it had to do with dirty wheels/track as a day later my switcher wouldn’t even run around the main line. Maybe it’s just the dirty track that causes all the problems you were having? Just some thoughts. Thanks a lot for this video man! I was actually thinking about putting these in my wish list and I can say this video has made it a definite yes!
Glad I helped make the right decision! That issue sounds the same. It’s tough to tell, only 1 engine did it so it could be the engine, but other engines that had tsunami 2 and esu were experiencing different issues, so it could be layout. I couldn’t replicate it on my home Digitrax layout. The club layout is also Digitrax. But who knows, I may contact BLI if the issue becomes consistent.
I wish people would look in Topeka kansas, a 2 Santa fe mikados are in the water somewhere and a praise type loco
This is an impressive steam locomotive, the ATSF mikado is a great addition to the new paragon4 line. I hope that BLI has eliminated the performance quality function issues with the decoders from the paragon3 series.
Unfortunately the Paragon 4 whistles and chuffs still trail the competition from ESU, SoundTraxx, and TCS. Really nice looking and seems to run smooth, but the sounds are a C- at best for me.
From what I’ve gathered, the Santa Fe 2-8-2’s and Dreyfus Hudsons all the decoders are is a paragon 3 with a built in go pack. I’ve heard samples from the FEf-3’s and it’s new chuff sounds and sounds beautiful.
@@James-Railyard Good to know! Thanks
Very nice video!
I had an issue with mine too, the smoke unit quit working after 2 hours. The element is still on, so smoke slowly streams out, but the fan quit working, so puffing smoke. I did a factory reset on it, thinking it might fix the issue, but my nce controller said short circuit detected. It still works fine other than the smoke, so I guess I'll run it without the smoke.
Paragon 4?? Man I didn’t even know that was a thing yet
This is the first steam engine with Paragon 4 that Broadway limited released.
Whoa, I really want this in N scale.
Our club Corona Model Railroad Society has two of these otherwise outstanding locomotives. Our only issues is that if derailed or shorted the headlight goes out and cannot be restored except by removing power completely and reapplying the headlight function. Any other way of relighting the headlight short of killing power? Thanks.
what club in NJ, might have to check them out
The Model Railroad Club inc in Union, NJ. Their website is in the video description. Check them out! Such a beautiful layout with so much more under construction!
We need these models in n scale, but we never get them
Good old Broadway, carries over the same hardware but adds just a few new sound files to claim that they've "fixed" major issues, crappy electronics as usual I see. Guess that means I won't be purchasing anything Paragon 4 related from BLI, I'll be sure to spread this news to our club.
I only buy Paragon 2 and older.
The detail
Does anyone have any information on when they switched from the Switcher to the Road pilots? I can't find any information on that detail
How did you disconnect the loco and tender?
There is a 9 pin plug between the tender and engine (the same plugs you’ll see on other Broadway limited models). Once you unplug that plug and remove the tender from the drawbar then the engine and tender will separate.
Overnight I have a question and it is that I have 4023 and it stopped chuffing so I took it off the track and put it back on 30 seconds but the chuffing never came back to 4023. Is it possible you could help?
I would open the tender, and use the reset button first. In the instructions manual there should be a section on how to use the reset button. If that doesn’t work, might be a broken reed switch inside the engine, in front of the flywheel on the motor
The problem is on the layout with a short circuit.
I've only done some running with my 4023 on my switching layout, only negative issue, so far, is that the wheels have to rotate several times before the chuff is heard. Wondering if a CV function setting could improve on that? I have yet to try the smoke unit and make any cosmetic improvements. Soon I will be taking it to a friends layout for a good running on a large layout with as many cars as it can pull. Regardless this engine is a beautiful model and Broadway should get a good pat on the back for what they have done. And thank you for a professional video review....!
Try CV 196. According to the technical reference manual, this controls the steam cocks event count. Default is 2. So I’m assuming setting CV 196=0 should turn it off, meaning you should get the chuff instantly. Hope this helps!
@@OvernightScaleModels Thank You Much...!
Put it in Pro Lighting Mode so you can control all the lights individually. I find the auto cab light on/off to be unprototypical to the max and really irritating. If you use Pro Mode, the manual forgets to tell you about setting CV 243. Very important or your lights might not work properly. Why they didn't use one mode and eliminate some of the totally useless (IMHO) sounds from F 14 to F 21, I'll never understand. If you use Pro Mode you will lose the coupler sound function and a few others that are much more useful and will have to re-map these functions back in. But I do love being able to turn the cab light on and off and controlling the other lights individually particularly in switching operations.
Hi - what setting do you apply to CV243 please? Thanks
Is Paragon 4 better? Sound? Soeaker better?
Please try to make it more popular
I’m asking this about 3 years too late but if you could let me know that would be great
I am looking for a caboose just like that and I have found a few, however I have searched everywhere for one with those lanterns and I can’t find one to save my life. I also cant find just the lanterns to custom install on a caboose. So my question is, how or where do I find a caboose just like the one in this video with the lanterns?
Also I love your content and yes I did click on this to see the review of the loco (amazing review btw) however I couldn’t help but note that wonderful caboose
Thank you so much and I hope this message finds you well
Thanks for the comment, I custom did those lanterns. The caboose is a Centralia car shops Santa Fe caboose. Pretty hard to find, I found mine at a California train show for I believe $45-50. What’s nice about them is the lanterns holes are pretty much “pre drilled” but you have to drill through the holes for the lanterns. The lanterns are Cal Scale. They have a couple of options. Use a #62 drill bit to drill out the holes of the lantern and 1 hole from the bottom for the LED to fit in.
I want to find these locomotives
What kind of paint is that steam power black?
The paint I used on the drivers are model master engine black
@@OvernightScaleModels Thanks a lot.
Well damn, I hope the Paragon 3 gremlins haven't migrated into the Paragon 4's. I love the build quality, love the detail, just don't love the Paragon 3 gremlins.
Beautiful models. Unfortunately I model Raton Pass and these 2-8-2's were not seen there. As it is I have a few of BLI's 2-10-2's including one modified 2-10-4 to model the 3829 which was a regular on the Pass. My question is all of BLI's earlier models had the option of getting rid of the traction tire-equipped driver and replacing it with a regular driver. While this would reduce the model's tractive effort on grades, it allows for wheel slip that could be more beneficial to the model as a complete stall which a traction tire could cause could blow critical components on the engine. I also like the need for adding additional locomotives and helpers to get trains over my 3 percent grade, just like on the prototype. Are regular replacement drivers without the traction tire available? By the way, I'm a member of the NYSME in Carlstadt.
Unfortunately, there isn’t a replacement driver with no traction tire like they used to include. I understand the concern
Say, you don't have an ATSF 2-8-4 you can review?
Unfortunately no, but once I get my hands on one, you’ll see it on the channel
Where these used for passenger severice too
In modeling, I’ve learned “never say never.” Although these were designed for freight use, I can’t say these never pulled a passenger train ever. I’m sure it happened whether it was photographed or not.
@@OvernightScaleModels alright I'll take your advice , thanks , also great videos
The whistles still suck compared to TCS WOW sound decoders. And the smoke can’t touch MTH. BLI continues to disappoint regardless of their attempts at improvements. The most disappointing point is the abysmal positioning of the eccentric cranks! With the exception of a few samples, their eccentric cranks barely move which is one of the main joys of watching steam locomotive running gear!
BLI models look ok but still fall behind Athearn genesis! BLI still has lots of work to do before I’ll spend $500 on their locos!
So, new to all this. What MTH would you recommend?
@@Curious_Skeptic hi. MTH has been sold to Scaletrains Inc. Scaletrains hasn’t released any steam locos yet but I’ve been told they will be like the trusty MTH locos-same tooling and patents! Meanwhile you can find used MTH locos and you’ll see what I’m talking about. I’d recommend their first offering, the K4 Pacific. Excellent whistle and smoke and perfect eccentric rod movement. Same for their Mikado. Actually, all are excellent except for the J Class-kinda disappointed with how it looked. MTH looks great but BLI sometimes wins in that department. But BLI’s crappy eccentric crank modeling and weak smoke/chuff rendering ruins any edge they may have. MTH is a clear winner!