Whole process was informative and easy to understand the only comment/sugestion I have please clean that old oil and maybe even repaint whole back part of it so it does look "properly" done, plus if you leave like that your driver will have hard time convincing DOT officer that the seal has no leak and has been replaced recently. Good luck, drive safe.
The STEMCO spindle nut comes with instructions for torquing. 200 lb-ft, 3 spins. Loosen then torque to 100 lb-ft, 3 spins. Then loosen 1 face mark on the nut and install the keeper.
Never washed the bearings? And packed them with grease before installation? There is always dirt that gets into the inner bearing when removing the old axle seal.. I’d be cautious if these mechanics that take shortcuts like this.
You can clean up the brake pads & drum with brake cleaner, no need to replace them. Yes, DOT would say you have to replace it but as an owner op. I have just had the brakes & drum cleaned all the oil off & can save $ on doing that. If the drum isn't got grooves cut in it then you can run it longer.
@@albycortez1992....umm, your wrong. You can clean up the the brake shoe & reuse them because I have seen it done but you can do it how you want. If the brake shoe is not too soaked in oil then you can keep useing the same shoe.
I personally have not done it myself but have had mechanics to do it to my own truck & I'm ok with it provided that there isn't any sign of oil on the edge of the brake shoe which would be visible for DOT to see. Just because you get a wheel seal leak doesn't mean you have to change the brakes too because oil got on the surface of the pad. I say clean it up & keep running it if you still have descent pad left.
First, you didnt clean anything (sould fully inspect clean bearings, races and spindle), Second you put silicone on a sealing surface (with the wheel seal) completely unnecessary and takes way more time for the next guy since hes gotta remove all that silicone, Third you didnt even torque the spindle nut down properly, hack job here
If someone is about to do it this kind of stuff first time, then this is not the best video to follow. Find something that walks you through in babysteps. But overall, it does provide a good suggestion or reminder on how it is done.
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Big shops take longer beacause the do it right like torquing the nut to seat the Wheel bearing. A 3 step process
You have no idea what your talking about huh
Fact!
Whole process was informative and easy to understand the only comment/sugestion I have please clean that old oil and maybe even repaint whole back part of it so it does look "properly" done, plus if you leave like that your driver will have hard time convincing DOT officer that the seal has no leak and has been replaced recently. Good luck, drive safe.
What about the torquing especsifications
The STEMCO spindle nut comes with instructions for torquing. 200 lb-ft, 3 spins. Loosen then torque to 100 lb-ft, 3 spins. Then loosen 1 face mark on the nut and install the keeper.
Bro put up a how to on something he knows nothing about 😂 holy hell
Where can i find a spindle nut kit im trying to remove it today
Never washed the bearings? And packed them with grease before installation? There is always dirt that gets into the inner bearing when removing the old axle seal.. I’d be cautious if these mechanics that take shortcuts like this.
Ana skiping the torquing especsifications
THANKS
It 100% wouldn’t take hours for that axle to cool off after welding. Maybe 20 minutes
Check axle breather if there is one that’s why they pop
awsome tip!
Where is the axle breather located?
Grease packed wheels are a bitch to work on
100 dollars for the wheel seal including parts . Very low price
Find mom & pop shops they do it cheap
Back yard mechanics
Im one of the cheapest mobile mechanics here in vegas and i charge 125 with out parts 😬
No es necesario poner silicon por que cuando tira aceite no lo tira por ahi
It also ruins the bearings when the silicone breaks down
So what size socket is he using to remove the bearing nut
Varies truck to truck
It's about 4" 13/16 or 120 mm.
Thank you
@@terrellscaife2411 did you have to order one?
Is no way that you take 30 minutes,
100 dollar no way . Wheel seal is like $40 and oil is like $12 and gasket . Plus brake cleaner.
forgot to torque that crap
I'll listen to your opinion on how to do this when you know the difference between a nut and bolt
Well said! Lmao
No need to put silicone on spindle where seal sits on. First time see somebody doing that with silicone.
You can clean up the brake pads & drum with brake cleaner, no need to replace them. Yes, DOT would say you have to replace it but as an owner op. I have just had the brakes & drum cleaned all the oil off & can save $ on doing that. If the drum isn't got grooves cut in it then you can run it longer.
Umm no you dont use the brake pads again wth
And brake cleaner is not enough to clean an oil soaked brake shoe
@@albycortez1992....umm, your wrong. You can clean up the the brake shoe & reuse them because I have seen it done but you can do it how you want. If the brake shoe is not too soaked in oil then you can keep useing the same shoe.
Just because youve seen it done doesnt make it right.
I personally have not done it myself but have had mechanics to do it to my own truck & I'm ok with it provided that there isn't any sign of oil on the edge of the brake shoe which would be visible for DOT to see. Just because you get a wheel seal leak doesn't mean you have to change the brakes too because oil got on the surface of the pad. I say clean it up & keep running it if you still have descent pad left.
First, you didnt clean anything (sould fully inspect clean bearings, races and spindle), Second you put silicone on a sealing surface (with the wheel seal) completely unnecessary and takes way more time for the next guy since hes gotta remove all that silicone, Third you didnt even torque the spindle nut down properly, hack job here
Horrible job!!! Hammering the spindle like that is a no no!!! And then adding rtv silicone to spindle….i cant believe this guy…..did he torque it???
No
I seen that no torque. And silicone I have never used silicone
If someone is about to do it this kind of stuff first time, then this is not the best video to follow. Find something that walks you through in babysteps. But overall, it does provide a good suggestion or reminder on how it is done.
You did absolutely everything wrong here
45 minutes for a wheel seal? PFFFF!!!! i can tell that you have zero mechanical experience
just taking a seized drum off will be over 45 minutes
So many things wrong within first 5 minutes 🤦♂️🤦♂️