Flat mill, double cut Nicholson files. Get a file card to clean the file as it's being used. Secure piece, with a hand on each end of the file, nice straight smooth stroke, no pressure down on the backstroke. Bronze tig brazing, get a small stainless steel brush and brush the weld after each go. Bronze forms an oxidization layer, and if not removed it requires more heat to burn through it, which heats up the area more then required.
I always learn something new from your videos. This one is a master class in chasing. It had never occurred to me to fill holes with bronze dust and epoxy. I really hope you do original sculpture again.
I enjoy this channel alot. maybe I have given you this suggestion before, but I think a good money making product would be a North American wild animal chess set. you have deer, elk, bear, eagle, wolverine, wolf, etc to choose from. make a sculpted head of the animal that best fits the chess piece function and characteristics. cougar = queen, bear = king or whatever. mount the heads on a standard chess piece base. only a few molds needed because pieces repeat. cast in different metals - aluminum for white, bronze for black. sell with or without the board.
Great piece! By the way, for your vacuum setup, something I've used is an air tank or two in between the flask and the pump. You can 'store' a significant vacuum in the tanks, and if you add a foot pedal valve, you can activate it as you begin to pour. It also adds a heat buffer between the flask and pump, which extends its life by avoiding overheating.
Here are some properites of a good Core: There are seven requirements for cores: Green strength: In the green condition. There must be adequate strength for handling In the hardened state, it has to be strong enough to handle the forces of casting; therefore, the compression strength should be 100 to 300 psi (0.69 to 2.07 MPa). Permeability has tp be very high to allow for the escape of gases. Friability: As the casting or molding cools, the core has to be weak enough to break down as the material shrinks. Moreover, cores must be easy to remove during shakeout. Good refractoriness is required because the core is surrounded by hot metal during casting. A smooth surface finish if exposed. Minimum generation of gases when metal pouring. Many formulas exist.
I have a favourite file. Try master craft triangle file. It cuts likes butter. I play around with mild steel and wood. Or try a chainsaw round file. They’re my favourite files.
Amazing as always, Lucas. Awesome casting. I loved the part where you repair the leg and ankle. The core may have moved during dewaxing because the bronze rods, That would explain the thin wall defects. You can use stainless steel rods instead. On the other hand, I let you know that the investment does not stick to the cured investment. Edit: please, consider to put international shipping. Im from Spain
I think I added international shipping now. Stainless steel might be better but I was hoping the welding rods would be the same color but I don’t think I will use them again.
Lucas, about 20 years ago, I had to patch a piece of bronze, and my local welding supply came up with what was essentially some bronze-colored solder. It was higher temperature than regular solder, but could still be melted with a simple propane/air torch. Looked like pure bronze when it cooled. I don't recall the trade name, but maybe a welding supply shop might be able to help you out. It would be perfect for filling tiny pits like the one on the arm.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios I'll see if I can find the rod material again. It really was very easy to work with; had some kind of flux included in the rod.
What I've seen others doing to repair deficiencies is to drill it out and thread the hole, then thread a piece of rod and screw it in and peen it over. Love you videos!
Nice job with the the chasing of the heel and ribs. I agree with you, there's not a lot of videos covering bronze chasing and it is a difficult skill to learn. It looks like the core may have shifted a little and that's maybe what caused the defects in the arm and chest. Just a quick bit of (unsolicited!😁) advice if you're interested, as a rule it's ok to leave the investment inside the bronze if you use ceramic shell (as long as it doesn't rattle!). Not ideal to leave plaster based investments inside as this can cause discolouration on the outside of your bronze later down the line. Keep up the good work and looking forward to the next one.👍🏼
I think you might be right. I suspect there were also some flakes from the core the fell off. I’m sure there were some air pockets in there. He is my question though. If the sculpture is sealed, why would an investment core cause discoloration? I wouldn’t think I’d be able to get a ceramic shell core to dry in this piece.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios to be honest I'm not sure what causes the discoloration, I suspect it may be to do with trapped moisture next to the bronze or even acidity levels in the investment that can corrode over time. I have seen it in larger pieces where the investment was left inside because it was difficult to remove and the whole piece needed a full re-patina. I personally would have printed and cast it in 2 separate pieces, removed all the investment then tigged them back together. It isn't much work if your joint is tight, welds are neat and you remove a lot of the messing around with cores, chaplets and air pockets.
Was there no way of taking a mould of the missing piece (perhaps by squeezing some clay into the hole & then moulding that) like patching a tire inner tube or tears in clothing.
Hi. I have an assumption, I was not engaged in metal smelting: And if you melt the stand separately and then weld it? Maybe all the bronze has gone there, and managed to freeze on the leg? P.S. I use google translate, sorry.
Very good but I think I'd have made this 18"-2 ft tall, that way any imperfections in something this detailed, would be easier to repair, do you find that with Bronze that the copper can dominate resulting in a more...ginger copper colour often?
An interesting choice for casting Arnie, but NOT the usual stereotype of him in a biker's jacket, with half his face melted off. Instead you chose something from his body building era, a good choice. know one has chosen to sculpt a Greek god Arnie, perhaps as an Olympic Athlete from the ancient World maybe...throwing a Javelin or a discus, or simply recreating a Grecian pose like Atlas, Hercules etc I see know you HAVE done a film character casting - the Alien Queen, I LOVE the bronze... chocolate metallic look of this metal, I cold cast film characters in bronze using Bronze powder mixed with fibre glass resin & a speck of black, such as- ROBOCOP, & at some point IRON MAN, ive also done the Terminator Endo Skeleton in bronze (from the Horizon kit) but modified, & I'm very happy with the results. I also want to do a TALOS from JASON & ARGONAUTS BUT without the green oxidised look all over seen in the film
@@lundgrenbronzestudios but apparently something went wrong. I would say shape is too complicated fo resin. Too much residue or something. Worth to try wax I gues..
@@waliza001 yes but things can go wrong with wax too. I do think wax is easier but the molding is expensive so unless I going to make a bunch of copies that is a simpler method to use the castable resin.
Flashing indicates mold still cracked. After it cracked, metal was taken from hot areas creating flaws elsewhere. Achilles foot was not fed properly. Should have had two main sprues going directly to the feet and two to the base. Lower legs could have been solid, not hollow. Or maybe could have cast two smaller, easier separate pieces, then welded together. Just guesses - such a complicated process. Maybe try again with either your uncle or rocky, using what you learned from this one. Poorly designed plaster core may have also created what reader below suggested - "nuclear bomb" ??
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Hallo i just dont now the englisch word. but if you use a core with plaster inside the gas in the plaster expanse, your flask has a temperature 500C and your poor the bronce in with 1100 C so the gas inside your plaster expanse and search for a way out That is the problem. you must build a way out for the gas inside of the core mfg Thomas Fleißgarten but by the way it is very interesting to see your videos
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Makes sense I think. Here are some properties of good cores from wikipedia: Requirements There are seven requirements for cores: -Green strength: In the green condition, there must be adequate strength for handling -In the hardened state, it must be strong enough to handle the forces of casting; therefore, the compression strength should be 100 to 300 psi (0.69 to 2.07 MPa). -Permeability must be very high to allow for the escape of gases. -Friability: As the casting or molding cools, the core must be weak enough to break down as the material shrinks. Moreover, they must be easy to remove during shakeout. -Good refractoriness is required as the core is usually surrounded by hot metal during casting or molding. -A smooth surface finish. -Minimum generation of gases during metal pouring. Many homemade formulas can be found on google
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Here are properties of good core. There are seven requirements for cores: (Green strength: In the green condition, there must be adequate strength for handling In the hardened state, it must be strong enough to handle the forces of casting; therefore, the compression strength should be 100 to 300 psi (0.69 to 2.07 MPa). Permeability must be very high to allow for the escape of gases. Friability: As the casting or molding cools, the core must be weak enough to break down as the material shrinks. Moreover, they must be easy to remove during shakeout. Good refractoriness is required as the core is usually surrounded by hot metal during casting or molding. A smooth surface finish. Minimum generation of gases during metal pouring.) Many formulas on google
Flat mill, double cut Nicholson files. Get a file card to clean the file as it's being used. Secure piece, with a hand on each end of the file, nice straight smooth stroke, no pressure down on the backstroke.
Bronze tig brazing, get a small stainless steel brush and brush the weld after each go. Bronze forms an oxidization layer, and if not removed it requires more heat to burn through it, which heats up the area more then required.
Thanks for the tips!
I always learn something new from your videos. This one is a master class in chasing. It had never occurred to me to fill holes with bronze dust and epoxy. I really hope you do original sculpture again.
I’m not sure it has been done or that it even should be done but I did it anyway 😆
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Not by the book for sure as plastic does not age like bronze
With softer metals, if you wax your files before you start and periodically as you go the metals won't stick in the groves and they will cut faster.
Oh really? I never knew that. Is it any wax or special wax?
We use chalk to stop the bronze getting stuck in the files. Sound like a similar method with wax. Will have to give it a try with wax.
Learn something new everyday. I've been using a wire brush...often 😁😎
"I'll be bock" - to watch more casting!
You have come a long way, young Paduan. :)
I enjoy this channel alot. maybe I have given you this suggestion before, but I think a good money making product would be a North American wild animal chess set. you have deer, elk, bear, eagle, wolverine, wolf, etc to choose from. make a sculpted head of the animal that best fits the chess piece function and characteristics. cougar = queen, bear = king or whatever. mount the heads on a standard chess piece base. only a few molds needed because pieces repeat. cast in different metals - aluminum for white, bronze for black. sell with or without the board.
Not a bad idea!
Great video as always 👍
"I'll BE BRONZE "
😆
Super great work Lucas, nice done how you patch up the statue. I think arnorld would be proud! 😄👏👍
Great job as always! You're an excellent teacher with a perfect sense of humor.
Great piece! By the way, for your vacuum setup, something I've used is an air tank or two in between the flask and the pump. You can 'store' a significant vacuum in the tanks, and if you add a foot pedal valve, you can activate it as you begin to pour. It also adds a heat buffer between the flask and pump, which extends its life by avoiding overheating.
That’s interesting. Sounds like a thoughtful set up.
So much skill goes into the cleanup! Good luck with the sale 👍
Excellent work again. Honesty gives you a clear track ahead to develop.
Bro, you're definitely not a quitter. Good job 👍
Here are some properites of a good Core: There are seven requirements for cores:
Green strength: In the green condition. There must be adequate strength for handling
In the hardened state, it has to be strong enough to handle the forces of casting; therefore, the compression strength should be 100 to 300 psi (0.69 to 2.07 MPa).
Permeability has tp be very high to allow for the escape of gases.
Friability: As the casting or molding cools, the core has to be weak enough to break down as the material shrinks. Moreover, cores must be easy to remove during shakeout.
Good refractoriness is required because the core is surrounded by hot metal during casting.
A smooth surface finish if exposed.
Minimum generation of gases when metal pouring.
Many formulas exist.
Awesome job!! Looks great
I have a favourite file. Try master craft triangle file. It cuts likes butter. I play around with mild steel and wood. Or try a chainsaw round file. They’re my favourite files.
Always love your work, keep it up mate
Amazing as always, Lucas. Awesome casting. I loved the part where you repair the leg and ankle. The core may have moved during dewaxing because the bronze rods, That would explain the thin wall defects. You can use stainless steel rods instead.
On the other hand, I let you know that the investment does not stick to the cured investment. Edit: please, consider to put international shipping. Im from Spain
I think I added international shipping now.
Stainless steel might be better but I was hoping the welding rods would be the same color but I don’t think I will use them again.
Lucas, about 20 years ago, I had to patch a piece of bronze, and my local welding supply came up with what was essentially some bronze-colored solder. It was higher temperature than regular solder, but could still be melted with a simple propane/air torch. Looked like pure bronze when it cooled. I don't recall the trade name, but maybe a welding supply shop might be able to help you out. It would be perfect for filling tiny pits like the one on the arm.
I have such a hard time with brazing. I can never get the metal to stick. But I don’t have the best torch either.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios I'll see if I can find the rod material again. It really was very easy to work with; had some kind of flux included in the rod.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Read a couple welding books from a good library.
What I've seen others doing to repair deficiencies is to drill it out and thread the hole, then thread a piece of rod and screw it in and peen it over.
Love you videos!
Interesting. I’ll have to try that.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios See Neil Martz's John Lennon bust video, its somewhere around the 12 minute mark...
🔥🔥🔥
To get the seal between the hot flask and the pipe, could you use something like caulk or does it have to be 100% silicone?
Nice job with the the chasing of the heel and ribs. I agree with you, there's not a lot of videos covering bronze chasing and it is a difficult skill to learn. It looks like the core may have shifted a little and that's maybe what caused the defects in the arm and chest. Just a quick bit of (unsolicited!😁) advice if you're interested, as a rule it's ok to leave the investment inside the bronze if you use ceramic shell (as long as it doesn't rattle!). Not ideal to leave plaster based investments inside as this can cause discolouration on the outside of your bronze later down the line. Keep up the good work and looking forward to the next one.👍🏼
I think you might be right. I suspect there were also some flakes from the core the fell off. I’m sure there were some air pockets in there.
He is my question though. If the sculpture is sealed, why would an investment core cause discoloration?
I wouldn’t think I’d be able to get a ceramic shell core to dry in this piece.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios to be honest I'm not sure what causes the discoloration, I suspect it may be to do with trapped moisture next to the bronze or even acidity levels in the investment that can corrode over time. I have seen it in larger pieces where the investment was left inside because it was difficult to remove and the whole piece needed a full re-patina. I personally would have printed and cast it in 2 separate pieces, removed all the investment then tigged them back together. It isn't much work if your joint is tight, welds are neat and you remove a lot of the messing around with cores, chaplets and air pockets.
Wondering best way to remove interiior plaster?
@@mevk1 it stays inside.
@@lundgrenbronzestudiosCores most likey have their own recipes and techniques, just like investments.
Don't forget carbides abrasives and files have a limited lifetime even though they still function
Very nice!
Was there no way of taking a mould of the missing piece (perhaps by squeezing some clay into the hole & then moulding that) like patching a tire inner tube or tears in clothing.
Aaaeeegghhaarrghh, the winnning pose!
Hi. I have an assumption, I was not engaged in metal smelting:
And if you melt the stand separately and then weld it? Maybe all the bronze has gone there, and managed to freeze on the leg?
P.S. I use google translate, sorry.
Very good but I think I'd have made this 18"-2 ft tall, that way any imperfections in something this detailed, would be easier to repair,
do you find that with Bronze that the copper can dominate resulting in a more...ginger copper colour often?
When you put investment inside the mold isn't it inside the bronze when you cast it?
Yep. It is. That’s how you keep the metal a uniform thickness.
I love your vids, i have an idea, could you please cast an adult tarantula
That would be an interesting one.
Whats the chemical to make the patina ?? Name pls
Liver of sulfur is its name.
An interesting choice for casting Arnie, but NOT the usual stereotype of him in a biker's jacket, with half his face melted off. Instead you chose something from his body building era, a good choice.
know one has chosen to sculpt a Greek god Arnie, perhaps as an Olympic Athlete from the ancient World maybe...throwing a Javelin or a discus, or simply recreating a Grecian pose like Atlas, Hercules etc
I see know you HAVE done a film character casting - the Alien Queen, I LOVE the bronze... chocolate metallic look of this metal,
I cold cast film characters in bronze using Bronze powder mixed with fibre glass resin & a speck of black, such as- ROBOCOP, & at some point IRON MAN, ive also done the Terminator Endo Skeleton in bronze (from the Horizon kit) but modified, & I'm very happy with the results.
I also want to do a TALOS from JASON & ARGONAUTS BUT without the green oxidised look all over seen in the film
What happened with core inside ? how you cleaned that
It stays inside. It is incased in metal.
My busts came out without a nose and mouth, do you know what happened?
eBay pictures don't do justice. Adding a short video may help.
Use a print to make a rubber mold and wax casting model.
That would work. The castable resin is supposed to be a way to avoid that.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios but apparently something went wrong. I would say shape is too complicated fo resin. Too much residue or something. Worth to try wax I gues..
@@waliza001 yes but things can go wrong with wax too. I do think wax is easier but the molding is expensive so unless I going to make a bunch of copies that is a simpler method to use the castable resin.
It's not a tooma!
Flashing indicates mold still cracked. After it cracked, metal was taken from hot areas creating flaws elsewhere. Achilles foot was not fed properly. Should have had two main sprues going directly to the feet and two to the base. Lower legs could have been solid, not hollow. Or maybe could have cast two smaller, easier separate pieces, then welded together. Just guesses - such a complicated process. Maybe try again with either your uncle or rocky, using what you learned from this one. Poorly designed plaster core may have also created what reader below suggested - "nuclear bomb" ??
Those sculpt issues are nothing a little D-bol test cycle cant cure
Kerngas!!! Auch beim Vakuumguss muss das beachtet werden
Something must be lost in translation because there is no nuclear gas involved.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Hallo i just dont now the englisch word. but if you use a core with plaster inside the gas in the plaster expanse, your flask has a temperature 500C and your poor the bronce in with 1100 C so the gas inside your plaster expanse and search for a way out
That is the problem. you must build a way out for the gas inside of the core
mfg
Thomas Fleißgarten
but by the way it is very interesting to see your videos
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Makes sense I think. Here are some properties of good cores from wikipedia:
Requirements
There are seven requirements for cores:
-Green strength: In the green condition, there must be adequate strength for handling
-In the hardened state, it must be strong enough to handle the forces of casting; therefore, the compression strength should be 100 to 300 psi (0.69 to 2.07 MPa).
-Permeability must be very high to allow for the escape of gases.
-Friability: As the casting or molding cools, the core must be weak enough to break down as the material shrinks. Moreover, they must be easy to remove during shakeout.
-Good refractoriness is required as the core is usually surrounded by hot metal during casting or molding.
-A smooth surface finish.
-Minimum generation of gases during metal pouring.
Many homemade formulas can be found on google
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Here are properties of good core. There are seven requirements for cores:
(Green strength: In the green condition, there must be adequate strength for handling
In the hardened state, it must be strong enough to handle the forces of casting; therefore, the compression strength should be 100 to 300 psi (0.69 to 2.07 MPa).
Permeability must be very high to allow for the escape of gases.
Friability: As the casting or molding cools, the core must be weak enough to break down as the material shrinks. Moreover, they must be easy to remove during shakeout.
Good refractoriness is required as the core is usually surrounded by hot metal during casting or molding.
A smooth surface finish.
Minimum generation of gases during metal pouring.)
Many formulas on google
Great work
Also
Arnold had fairly weak upper leg development
Lol
Should have left it alone
Just get his arms chest
😆
Gay Vanity
No thank you.
Arnold was anything but gay. Today all professional athletes must do weight lifting/excercises to build muscle mass. Body building is too extreme IMO.