Excellent techniques, from someone who used to work in a bronze foundry casting everything from figurines to huge monuments. One tip for adhering sprues: Take a hot needle tool, pierce the surface of the model and gently rotate at an angle, creating a cone-shaped void, melt a bead of the resin wax and join resin wax to resin wax. Tricky but sure to work. Or join all the pieces together in software like Blender and model the sprues there as well.
What a beautiful and fascinating video to watch. I would love to get into making bronze sculptures one day. At the moment apartment living prevents it. One thing for retirement!
i use it 50/50 mix with purple for best results. Base layer x3 with 60 seconds. each. Print hollow, add vent holes and plug after. after a quick rinse in ipa, put in vey hot water for a minute, then super easy support removal. Then quick wash again in ipa, blow dry and cure in glycerine, (very important for purple!) ipa and ethanol will both seep into the outer layers and can cause surface defects, so less time in it the better. sticky wax is your friend to help stick supports on, mix a bit with the sprue wax, melt a spot. then attach spue and heat weld they come in many small parts so ou can print them all at once, and reduce time the lcd light is on for (extends life of lcd before replacement is needed as it finishes everthing faster)
The crack in the wrist is a type of shrink deficit from the narrowness of the wrist causing the bronze the freeze prematurely and contracting quicker than the bronze above and below. The best solution would be to create a feeder reservoir to keep the bronze flowing hotter longer, which may require you to cast the bottom and top parts separately and weld together afterwards, depending on how much room you have in your flask to add a two-inch tall, one-inch in diameter feeder.
Agree that this is the issue. That thin area of bronze can't shrink past the constriction in the mold. Another idea, you can try to connect any thin-to-thick areas with a parallel runner. It might take some experimentation, but try adding runners from the elbow to the hand or the thigh to the hand, to strengthen against cracking during cool but also feed with warm material.
Nice work. I'm wondering, on the welding, whether using a rounded tungsten ( like doing aluminum ) would help to spread out the heat more uniformly. Wouldn't hurt to try on some scrap pieces. Cheers.
3d prints sometimes come separated, because many parts only print well in one direction. so it might be easier to glue them and paint over it, than deal with the connections. imagine all the fingers pointing down and having a connection on each fingertip. the hair was already breaking, and its thicker. also, the print time i determined by the height for sla printers. so cutting the model in half also halfs the printtime. lastly, try to model in blender (like combining the shapes), if you have some time. its a bit annoying to get into, but there are good youtube tutorials and its really worth it.
Great work! Loved to watch it complete. Is thjere a way to remove small bubbles/ hollow portions from the bronze surface? Is is because of the gravity cast and could be resolved with a forced cast? Would it be equally / better finished if in copper?
VogMan does this process as well, he refined his burnout cycles and has a guide for working with this resin. Definately give his siraya tech content a watch. Great job with those welds by the way that had to be nerve wrecking!
Really nice work, and also some good tips for how the printable resins works out. Tip for equipment for doing the fine sanding: Look for used dental equipment. I've got myself a set of air powered drills for next to nothing (many are switching to newer BLDC driven equipment, and they have very strict requirement for cleanliness, so if it has fire damage etc, it is usually just discarded), and they are _sooooooo_ smooth to use for fine detail filing.
Fell in love with the process!! Great work and video. I appreciate that you also showed the failures and how you fixed them. I'm a hobbyist 3D printer and I didn't know that you could mix 3d printing with metal casting. Really, an inspiring video, I'll check the rest of your channel :)
Siraya cast resin is made specifically for lost wax casting. Blue is harder to work with than purple(much more brittle), but claims to burn out cleaner.
I think the flashing is from thermal shock, “they” recommend the mold to be around 1000f but I poor mine right out of the kiln at 1600-1800 deg. I would also double check the burn out schedule is correct. Very cool casting, love it!
Cheap pneumatic engravers are great for removing thick flashing. Impressed with your results with siraya blue. I hated every moment trying to work with it.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios I exclusively use Bluecast X1 now. I like it because it burns out easy, clean, and fast. I just use sticky wax to sprue and never have an issue. It’s super easy to tell if it cures because it changes colors. You just need to cure with an ultrasonic, with ethyl alcohol. It’s a bit more involved and twice the price overall, but worth it for the reliability and ease of use for paid projects. Edit: we’ll probably 4x the price. But I ain’t payin 😁
I have a elegoo mars 3 pro and I am also trying to use tru blue siraya tech. I keep running into issues where the print isn't sticking to the build plate and is stuck at the bottom of the FEP later. I have tried re-leveing and changing the FEP layer with a fresh one. Could you share any tips? Also what settings are you using?
What did you wash the resin in? Did you let it air dry, or did you wipe it off? The difference could explain the chalky residue. P.S. 3d printing is what led me here. 😊 I live in the land of salt and cults, so it's cold here, too. It kills me. I don't print in the house, so my printer is down for the winter. What is your cure time? Longer cure time makes for more fragile prints.
Really I thought a longer cure time made the prints stronger. I had it set to like 6 seconds. This resin is known for having longer cure times but maybe I over did it. I did do some test prints of little models and it seemed like it looked fine to me. I rinsed the prints in IPA and I did let them dry before curing. It turned chalky as soon as it dried. The strange thing is, if you watch the video the color became uniform because It was days between working on it. It became less chalky colored and ended up matching the other half.
I've also tried casting with different "castable" resins. It's a very fiddly process. The resin needs to be handled in a very specific way, some need to be cured in glycerol, others have chemical procedures but I think it comes down to removing the weakening agents in the resin. It might be that cleaning with alcohol causes the flashing in your instance (alcohol or ethanol reacting with the resin and volletile compounds getting pushed out when in the oven causing expansion and the cracks you found). But on the other hand, some casting investments are formulated to be more resistant to the expansion/pressure and/or chemicals of castable resins. From what I've heard castable resins don't actually melt but they burn "cleanly"..
Sirya Tech makes two casting resins, the Blu (which as you found is hard to print) and a Purple (which is much easier to print and handle). Give the Purple a go. I did not have issues with the mold cracking and causing flashing either and just followed the investments normal burnout schedule. Also, when I can't find a version of the model in one piece, I "reassemble" the parts into one file so I can print them as one piece. It takes longer to print but a lot less time to glue and blend the pieces together. Keep up the good work
Use gloves when handling resin, Master, resin is nasty and contact and builds up in your system with time untill you become sensitized to it. Resin does not melt away like cast wax, it burns out and you must stick to the reccomended burnout cycle, idealy a klin that you can controll Prints must be hollow with vent holes to prevent cupping during print, reduce cross section to print better and to have less resin to burn out The reason why you should use the double tank dip-clean method instead of wash station is it is easyer to saturate the iso in the station, you can still use the wash station as the first clean tank but ideally you should have a tank for last pass to remove uncured resin. The IPA ideally should be left in a closed transparent box in the sun when not in use to cure dissolved resin and precipitate solids, it should be filtered before use each time
Looks like even resin casting has several weaknesses. Very nice demo though, thank you! Just a guess but maybe the wrist crack was caused by a "hot tear"
I would definitely recommend hollowing the models out. It'll save a significant amount of resin ($$$), reduce surface area on the FEP (much less suction and risk of it coming off the plate), and in the burnout it wont have as much expansion cracking the plaster. I just plug up the holes with wax, but of course that means no vacuuming the plaster while it cures, cuz that'd bust the plug right out. As for washing, cured resin is still *slightly* soluble in alcohol, just enough that longer wash times, or ultrasonic washing, can cause defects. It can accentuate layer lines, especially on areas that were almost flush with the plate (like the chest). I let my prints drip for 15-20 mins, then a progressive series of washes. First a rough wash with very dirty alcohol, just a dip and shake dry, then submerged in dirty, finished with a rinse in new/lightly used and filtered. Then I use compressed air to blow it completely dry before curing. Denatured alcohol works better than IPA in my opinion, plus it continues to clean parts even when it's absolutely filthy, and you can filter the resin out much easier than IPA. Because of the wax content in the resin, it is brittle as hell, and overcuring makes it far worse (cure times can be *way* different based on your setup, you're just gonna need to play with it). But if you put the print in hot water for 5-10 minutes before clipping the supports, they come off much nicer, less ripping out chunks from your print. Sprues... Yeah I got nothing for ya there, it's been a constant struggle for me too. Though after seeing your technique with using resin as a filler, it might work to put a drop on the end of a sprue and cure it to the print 🤷♂️
That looks great! Looks like you jumped straight into the resin printing deep end with wax resin! Good call on the space heater. I use a Uniformation printer for casting resins specifically because it has a built in resin heater. That alone has saved so many prints im sure. Not sure why they dont want you to use a curing station. Ive been doing that and it hasnt been an issue so far. Maybe the prints can get washed around with the liquid and break? Ive noticed the wax resins and tough resins dont want to come out totally clean and that can be a pain. I got an ultrasonic wash station to hopefully help with that, but i havent had any major problems from the normal ones.
@lundgrenbronzestudios I do a 2 stage washing process. First, I let the prints sit in a bucket of IPA (dirty ipa) for about 5-10 minutes. I'm usually doing something else while it sits in there, so I'm not keeping track. Then I take the stuff out and if there's a lot of resin still there I dunk it a couple more times and let it sit for a few more minutes. After that, I put it in another wash station with much cleaner IPA for 10 minutes. Then I remove them and let them dry/blow them dry a bit. If they still have lots of resin on them, its back into the wash station again. ABS like resin comes out perfect the first time, "tough" and "cast" resins usually take extra time. I hope the ultrasonic wash station can remove more resin without the prints sloshing around getting damaged. They usually go nuts whirling away in the whirlpool of ipa in the wash station. I print/investment cast much smaller stuff than you so this is a problem you might not have. BTW the parts are sometimes chopped into smaller bits for ease of supporting or to fit on smaller machines. A Saturn or uniformation printer is pretty big, but lots of people have a Mars or sonic mini or something like that. Hope this helps! You're doing awesome
In my point of view, the reason why it cracks in the hand is: when you touched the resin and dried it with light, the light only dried the outside, the inside always remains liquid, the piece only had a small dry part, so small that it could not support the mold, the plaster tends to lose strength when it dries
Oh and parts of your cast cracking has to do with pouring temperature and thermal expansion/contraction, if you cast solid it is probably not bad to pour somewhat cold.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios i do my own modeling, but if you set very large supports, slice and export the stl, you can bring that in and set supports. Seems complex. I might make a video explaining, I think it would be easier to understand. Also, I've begun making my models hollow, and as soon as its warmer, I'm going to see if that gives the resin somewhere to expand.
Regarding why the model comes in multiple pieces, its easier to print and get cleaner details as supports can be placed in non-obstructive places. BUT if you put your parts in a program like meshmixer, you can combine the parts yourself and print in 1 piece if you want.
Hi! First of all: Nice Video!!!!!!!! For the detaching of the Wax: i guess its because the Resin ist still gasing out?!? For the Crack at the Wirst: Most likely due to different Rates of cooling with in the Bronze Sculptures Arm to Hand to Wrist?!? The Wrist was cooling faster and was contracting. The Hand stuck in the Investment could not keep up!
Why not print resin sprues and cure those to the model the same way you reattached the braids? Edit: if it’s because you don’t have CAD experience, tinkercad is great for simple shapes
Take all the pieces of the model and load all them into mesh mixer All at once it should auto assemble the model for you into one piece that you can export and then print I hope this helps
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Oh no it's just that I'm not a native English speaker so my bronze casting vocabulary in English is very limited! I work in a bronze casting atelier, we make little chisels and texture 'stamps' from different scraps of tool steel, harden them, both for hammering/peening by hand and for pneumatic hammers.
Flashing here is resulted by wrong temperature cycle. You suppose to burn that at rates that they are providing (thay have instruction on a website) instead of eyeballing it. Also 1100 degrees is a bit to much for mold itself. It always about 'Longer not hotter'. Hope next time you will get cleaner result!
I just think the problem started with you favourite animated character not being Fone Bone, Casper the Friendly Ghost or Moominpapa. I'm thinking there would have been a lot less challenges there.
Two things that improved immensely the quality of my prints it to do that and change the support penetration depth to zero. But I've only used stardand resins so far@@lundgrenbronzestudios
@@lundgrenbronzestudios noch mal zur Erklärung, ich mache mein Silberlot auch selbst, und kann dadurch auch die Farbe anpassen … ich finde halt, eine weiche Flamme besser als ein Schweißgerät … 😉🤷🏼♂️
@@lundgrenbronzestudios with wood silk bees wax based polish you can. But at least you didn't polish it. So the clear coat stands a chance of staying stuck to the metal. I cast, and polish / make for a living too. (welcome to the club) x
@@thomaswakefield6889 with sheet metal it’s easy to heat up the thin metal but with the mass of the sculpture it’s so thick that it becomes a heat sink and it’s hard to get things to stick. I’ve tried but couldn’t get anything to stick. I may need an oxy, acetylene torch but I know there is a trick to it. I haven’t seen anyone show how they do it on sculptures.
Resin is a pain. So messy, sticky, brittle. And temperamental. You dont use it for a month and everything is a sticky clogged up mess. I put mine away on the shelf and counted it a loss. Additive is just so much faster and easier. Man I really want to try some casting, but so far Im terrible at it.
It's a process to learn but once you learn correctly, it becomes a breeze and very easy to make everything work flawlessly, every time. I'd rather gouge my eyes out with a hot spoon than use the super slow and ugly fdm methods for casting lol Casting resins differ in quality, sirayas been the best affordable and BlueCast x-one used by professional jewellers as a resin of choice, but its 4x more costly than siraya with its minor process issues
Maybe. Mine is formlabs and was around $4k. Was like the best at the time. Just not worth the mess to me. And the speed seemed slower if anything compared to fdm. Especially with all the cleaning and curing. Its way quicker to do fdm, but yes the layer lines are a deal breaker for some processes. @@noviceartisan
@@dcmotive nobody likes formlabs 😂 They're SO overpriced for what you get, and for the consumables, its ridiculous. The machines do work, but you're paying into a rather ludicrous scheme with them that's not ultimately for your benefit. Their machines are okay, but not something I would ever recommend over a contemporary bottom end printer like the Mars 4 Ultra, or Sonic Mini 8Ks which are also the best printers for jewellers currently, unless they want to spend very big sums on marginal xy improvements (mars 4 ultra and Sonic Mini 8ks are 18 microns xy, which is staggeringly good). These printers also print crazy fast too, like a densely packed buildplate of 100+ rings in 3 hours, to that 18 micron accuracy. Formlabs was very good to start and they built a large business model off of it, but they're far behind the times, mostly pushing themselves onto business users who are still comparing first gen resin consumer printers to current gen fdm. Theres a learning curve sure, but once you master it you'll never look back. The only consumables on the mentioned printers are the vat film, which you can replace directly, usually 5 very good sheets for £25 or less depending on printer, the LCD (30-60 average) and the resin.. Nothing else breaks. Once calibrated correctly and once you've learnt how to support manually, no auto, and how to deal with the post print process (most use a wash and cure machine these days, I still use tubs and ultrasonic) it's basically unbreakable. For around £200-£300 you get the whole printer, I do recommend getting one of those and trying again. Quality is night and day. And the current regular abs like resins from Anycubic & Elegoo are also crazy strong, non brittle and even flexible. Its just specialty ones that require compromises, same as with printing high temp filaments or tpu
I've spoken with a number of jewellers in person about their formlabs printers and several have the same fuck it why I buy this attitude, and they've been overjoyed after ditching it and trying the better, insanely cheaper, printers with modern resins :)
Excellent techniques, from someone who used to work in a bronze foundry casting everything from figurines to huge monuments. One tip for adhering sprues: Take a hot needle tool, pierce the surface of the model and gently rotate at an angle, creating a cone-shaped void, melt a bead of the resin wax and join resin wax to resin wax. Tricky but sure to work. Or join all the pieces together in software like Blender and model the sprues there as well.
This is what I do... I do jewelry, but instead of sprueing with wax I design and print everything already on a sprue tree. Works a treat!
Awesome video. Really enjoy seeing how much your channel and your casting have grown.
Every new project you do is my new favorite! Nice job again!!
Brilliant, I love this one, and god you have the patients of a saint, this one def one of the ones I like best.
What a beautiful and fascinating video to watch. I would love to get into making bronze sculptures one day. At the moment apartment living prevents it. One thing for retirement!
It is a great craft to get involved in.
Good work. you come a long way since your first video Great stuff
i use it 50/50 mix with purple for best results. Base layer x3 with 60 seconds. each. Print hollow, add vent holes and plug after.
after a quick rinse in ipa, put in vey hot water for a minute, then super easy support removal. Then quick wash again in ipa, blow dry and cure in glycerine, (very important for purple!)
ipa and ethanol will both seep into the outer layers and can cause surface defects, so less time in it the better.
sticky wax is your friend to help stick supports on, mix a bit with the sprue wax, melt a spot. then attach spue and heat weld
they come in many small parts so ou can print them all at once, and reduce time the lcd light is on for (extends life of lcd before replacement is needed as it finishes everthing faster)
degass before pouring, then pour super slow from high fo min bubbles. Mix water at 36:100 not 40:100
hand cos you glued with resin, no wax, so lots left uncured inside, and hand tiny
Great work ! I really appreciate your patience having to solve so many issues in the process.
Congratulations from Brasil 🎉
The crack in the wrist is a type of shrink deficit from the narrowness of the wrist causing the bronze the freeze prematurely and contracting quicker than the bronze above and below. The best solution would be to create a feeder reservoir to keep the bronze flowing hotter longer, which may require you to cast the bottom and top parts separately and weld together afterwards, depending on how much room you have in your flask to add a two-inch tall, one-inch in diameter feeder.
Agree that this is the issue. That thin area of bronze can't shrink past the constriction in the mold. Another idea, you can try to connect any thin-to-thick areas with a parallel runner. It might take some experimentation, but try adding runners from the elbow to the hand or the thigh to the hand, to strengthen against cracking during cool but also feed with warm material.
That turned out so good. The resin printer is amazing!
Looks good, good job.
Nice work. I'm wondering, on the welding, whether using a rounded tungsten ( like doing aluminum ) would help to spread out the heat more uniformly. Wouldn't hurt to try on some scrap pieces. Cheers.
I've been thinking of buying a 3d printer so I can do something like this- thanks a ton for sharing your process
More to come.
Great result, it looks like you had a lot of learning opportunities along the way! Good luck with the auction :)
3d prints sometimes come separated, because many parts only print well in one direction. so it might be easier to glue them and paint over it, than deal with the connections. imagine all the fingers pointing down and having a connection on each fingertip. the hair was already breaking, and its thicker. also, the print time i determined by the height for sla printers. so cutting the model in half also halfs the printtime. lastly, try to model in blender (like combining the shapes), if you have some time. its a bit annoying to get into, but there are good youtube tutorials and its really worth it.
Wow, you're getting good at this!
Great work! Loved to watch it complete. Is thjere a way to remove small bubbles/ hollow portions from the bronze surface? Is is because of the gravity cast and could be resolved with a forced cast? Would it be equally / better finished if in copper?
VogMan does this process as well, he refined his burnout cycles and has a guide for working with this resin. Definately give his siraya tech content a watch. Great job with those welds by the way that had to be nerve wrecking!
I’ve seen his videos and he does a good job. I’ve never seen him do a project this size or complexity though.
Really nice work, and also some good tips for how the printable resins works out.
Tip for equipment for doing the fine sanding: Look for used dental equipment. I've got myself a set of air powered drills for next to nothing (many are switching to newer BLDC driven equipment, and they have very strict requirement for cleanliness, so if it has fire damage etc, it is usually just discarded), and they are _sooooooo_ smooth to use for fine detail filing.
Excellent video... Really interesting content. Would love to see you do more of these with the resin prints... learning lots with you. ;)
There are special curing requirements to prevent the resin absorbing water - maybe that was what caused the expansion/flashing during the burnout?
Interesting. I didn’t know resin absorbs water.
Fell in love with the process!! Great work and video. I appreciate that you also showed the failures and how you fixed them. I'm a hobbyist 3D printer and I didn't know that you could mix 3d printing with metal casting. Really, an inspiring video, I'll check the rest of your channel :)
Siraya cast resin is made specifically for lost wax casting. Blue is harder to work with than purple(much more brittle), but claims to burn out cleaner.
Blue can be cured without glycerin too which is a plus.
Do you have a video on how to make the lifting and pouring tongs?
I came from your video titled things i wish i knew before building a foundry.
No I never made a video like that because feel like there are already so many out there but maybe I should make one with my own spin on it.
I think the flashing is from thermal shock, “they” recommend the mold to be around 1000f but I poor mine right out of the kiln at 1600-1800 deg. I would also double check the burn out schedule is correct. Very cool casting, love it!
Yep. That’s why some artisans cast arms separately; the thinnest of the investment between limbs and body is ssceptible to thermal shock.
Cheap pneumatic engravers are great for removing thick flashing. Impressed with your results with siraya blue. I hated every moment trying to work with it.
Did you find a better castable resin?
@@lundgrenbronzestudios I exclusively use Bluecast X1 now. I like it because it burns out easy, clean, and fast. I just use sticky wax to sprue and never have an issue. It’s super easy to tell if it cures because it changes colors. You just need to cure with an ultrasonic, with ethyl alcohol. It’s a bit more involved and twice the price overall, but worth it for the reliability and ease of use for paid projects.
Edit: we’ll probably 4x the price. But I ain’t payin 😁
Wow, great job.
I'm assuming if you wash it, and cure it will not melt away as you woukd hope when you're metal casting
Not unless it is castable resin.
I have a elegoo mars 3 pro and I am also trying to use tru blue siraya tech. I keep running into issues where the print isn't sticking to the build plate and is stuck at the bottom of the FEP later. I have tried re-leveing and changing the FEP layer with a fresh one. Could you share any tips? Also what settings are you using?
Awesome 👍 I have little problem if not burning hole after casting... Maybe you try this method.. and I think you casting be better
Not sure I understand what you mean.
nice, you might want to try anti aliasing in the slicer to get rid of some layer lines like on the chest
Never heard of anti aliasing. I’ll have to look it up. The cheat was a nearly flat angle and that’s why the layer lines were visible there.
What did you wash the resin in? Did you let it air dry, or did you wipe it off? The difference could explain the chalky residue.
P.S. 3d printing is what led me here. 😊
I live in the land of salt and cults, so it's cold here, too. It kills me. I don't print in the house, so my printer is down for the winter.
What is your cure time? Longer cure time makes for more fragile prints.
Really I thought a longer cure time made the prints stronger. I had it set to like 6 seconds. This resin is known for having longer cure times but maybe I over did it. I did do some test prints of little models and it seemed like it looked fine to me.
I rinsed the prints in IPA and I did let them dry before curing. It turned chalky as soon as it dried. The strange thing is, if you watch the video the color became uniform because It was days between working on it. It became less chalky colored and ended up matching the other half.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios damn. That's interesting. That's part of the fun and frustration of printing. The tinkering. What was the resin you used?
Meshmixer can hollow the model. Print a shell istead of a solid body. That may reduce expansion when burnt off.
I've also tried casting with different "castable" resins. It's a very fiddly process. The resin needs to be handled in a very specific way, some need to be cured in glycerol, others have chemical procedures but I think it comes down to removing the weakening agents in the resin. It might be that cleaning with alcohol causes the flashing in your instance (alcohol or ethanol reacting with the resin and volletile compounds getting pushed out when in the oven causing expansion and the cracks you found).
But on the other hand, some casting investments are formulated to be more resistant to the expansion/pressure and/or chemicals of castable resins. From what I've heard castable resins don't actually melt but they burn "cleanly"..
The brake at the wrist is typically referred to as a Hot tare, The hand and arm cooled at different rates.
I didn’t think there was that much of a size difference but I guess there was enough.
Sirya Tech makes two casting resins, the Blu (which as you found is hard to print) and a Purple (which is much easier to print and handle). Give the Purple a go. I did not have issues with the mold cracking and causing flashing either and just followed the investments normal burnout schedule. Also, when I can't find a version of the model in one piece, I "reassemble" the parts into one file so I can print them as one piece. It takes longer to print but a lot less time to glue and blend the pieces together. Keep up the good work
I avoided the purple because I was told it needs to be cured in glycerin. And that sounded like a pain. Is that the case?
Very very interesting!
About cracked hand- I think metal was too hot or not completely solidified when you started quenching the mold in the bucket.
You should watch the Teddy Roosevelt video I did. When the metal is still molten it is explosive.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios I suspect some sort of thermal shock anyway.
The results of your work are great, but how many total hours and total cost do you think this peace cost?
Much more than it sold for. I auctioned it off and it went for about $130.
I use to make wooden pipes, but the amount of time needed in each, i would never be able to sell them for a profit lol so feel that
Hey just curious, could you share the settings you used printing this resin on the Saturn 12k?
I know I had a long exposure time for this resin. 5 or 6 seconds. But I’m pretty new to 3D printing so I wouldn’t recommend copying me.
inspiring...i would like to know why u choosed elegoo as your 3d printer even i have plans to buy
Because it was a large size, 12k, reasonable price, and good reviews.
I guess you could implement the sprues directly into you print as well.
Use gloves when handling resin, Master, resin is nasty and contact and builds up in your system with time untill you become sensitized to it.
Resin does not melt away like cast wax, it burns out and you must stick to the reccomended burnout cycle, idealy a klin that you can controll
Prints must be hollow with vent holes to prevent cupping during print, reduce cross section to print better and to have less resin to burn out
The reason why you should use the double tank dip-clean method instead of wash station is it is easyer to saturate the iso in the station, you can still use the wash station as the first clean tank but ideally you should have a tank for last pass to remove uncured resin.
The IPA ideally should be left in a closed transparent box in the sun when not in use to cure dissolved resin and precipitate solids, it should be filtered before use each time
Looks like even resin casting has several weaknesses. Very nice demo though, thank you!
Just a guess but maybe the wrist crack was caused by a "hot tear"
Yep. Nothing is easy even resin casting but still I could have never sculpted it myself.
Hot tear could be the case.
3d printers sure do come in handy. Curious if there are laws against copying patterns though?@@lundgrenbronzestudios
Most likely, the hand fractured due to shrinkage as the bronze was solidifying. The arm shrunk, and the hand was pinned by the mold.
That makes sense.
Very impressive
I would definitely recommend hollowing the models out. It'll save a significant amount of resin ($$$), reduce surface area on the FEP (much less suction and risk of it coming off the plate), and in the burnout it wont have as much expansion cracking the plaster. I just plug up the holes with wax, but of course that means no vacuuming the plaster while it cures, cuz that'd bust the plug right out.
As for washing, cured resin is still *slightly* soluble in alcohol, just enough that longer wash times, or ultrasonic washing, can cause defects. It can accentuate layer lines, especially on areas that were almost flush with the plate (like the chest). I let my prints drip for 15-20 mins, then a progressive series of washes. First a rough wash with very dirty alcohol, just a dip and shake dry, then submerged in dirty, finished with a rinse in new/lightly used and filtered. Then I use compressed air to blow it completely dry before curing. Denatured alcohol works better than IPA in my opinion, plus it continues to clean parts even when it's absolutely filthy, and you can filter the resin out much easier than IPA.
Because of the wax content in the resin, it is brittle as hell, and overcuring makes it far worse (cure times can be *way* different based on your setup, you're just gonna need to play with it). But if you put the print in hot water for 5-10 minutes before clipping the supports, they come off much nicer, less ripping out chunks from your print.
Sprues... Yeah I got nothing for ya there, it's been a constant struggle for me too. Though after seeing your technique with using resin as a filler, it might work to put a drop on the end of a sprue and cure it to the print 🤷♂️
You like you’ve got some experience doing this. Thanks for the info.
That looks great! Looks like you jumped straight into the resin printing deep end with wax resin! Good call on the space heater. I use a Uniformation printer for casting resins specifically because it has a built in resin heater. That alone has saved so many prints im sure.
Not sure why they dont want you to use a curing station. Ive been doing that and it hasnt been an issue so far. Maybe the prints can get washed around with the liquid and break? Ive noticed the wax resins and tough resins dont want to come out totally clean and that can be a pain. I got an ultrasonic wash station to hopefully help with that, but i havent had any major problems from the normal ones.
How long do you wash your prints in the wash and cure station?
@lundgrenbronzestudios I do a 2 stage washing process. First, I let the prints sit in a bucket of IPA (dirty ipa) for about 5-10 minutes. I'm usually doing something else while it sits in there, so I'm not keeping track. Then I take the stuff out and if there's a lot of resin still there I dunk it a couple more times and let it sit for a few more minutes. After that, I put it in another wash station with much cleaner IPA for 10 minutes. Then I remove them and let them dry/blow them dry a bit. If they still have lots of resin on them, its back into the wash station again. ABS like resin comes out perfect the first time, "tough" and "cast" resins usually take extra time. I hope the ultrasonic wash station can remove more resin without the prints sloshing around getting damaged. They usually go nuts whirling away in the whirlpool of ipa in the wash station. I print/investment cast much smaller stuff than you so this is a problem you might not have.
BTW the parts are sometimes chopped into smaller bits for ease of supporting or to fit on smaller machines. A Saturn or uniformation printer is pretty big, but lots of people have a Mars or sonic mini or something like that. Hope this helps! You're doing awesome
It turned out very beautiful,❤ neat work !😊 Have you tried making the closest sprays in blender?
No I haven’t used blender yet.
for weling buy PUK ni fire overheating need it ( a basicly TIG flash spot welder
Maybe someday.
In my point of view, the reason why it cracks in the hand is: when you touched the resin and dried it with light, the light only dried the outside, the inside always remains liquid, the piece only had a small dry part, so small that it could not support the mold, the plaster tends to lose strength when it dries
What setting did you use??
I don’t remember but I know the resin needs to be warm and a longer exposure time.
Oh and parts of your cast cracking has to do with pouring temperature and thermal expansion/contraction, if you cast solid it is probably not bad to pour somewhat cold.
I have found printing with the sprues is the way to go. Adding then was nothing but problems!
Do you add them in the slicer?
@@lundgrenbronzestudios i do my own modeling, but if you set very large supports, slice and export the stl, you can bring that in and set supports. Seems complex. I might make a video explaining, I think it would be easier to understand. Also, I've begun making my models hollow, and as soon as its warmer, I'm going to see if that gives the resin somewhere to expand.
Regarding why the model comes in multiple pieces, its easier to print and get cleaner details as supports can be placed in non-obstructive places. BUT if you put your parts in a program like meshmixer, you can combine the parts yourself and print in 1 piece if you want.
I’ll have to look into mesh mixer. Thanks!
Amazing 🔥🔥🔥⚔️
Hi! First of all: Nice Video!!!!!!!!
For the detaching of the Wax: i guess its because the Resin ist still gasing out?!?
For the Crack at the Wirst: Most likely due to different Rates of cooling with in the Bronze Sculptures Arm to Hand to Wrist?!? The Wrist was cooling faster and was contracting. The Hand stuck in the Investment could not keep up!
Als #unwissender …. Beschleunigt es die Trocknung wenn man mit der UV-Lampe kreisende Bewegung über der UV Klebestelle macht?
I moved it all over the entire area I just didn’t show it all in the edit.
To make your spru connect better, dip the spru in the resin, put the spru in place on your print, then use a uv flashlight to cure the resin in place.
Interesting idea.
Why not print resin sprues and cure those to the model the same way you reattached the braids?
Edit: if it’s because you don’t have CAD experience, tinkercad is great for simple shapes
Yeah I’m just not the best with computers.
@ I feel that
Very Nice!
for pinpoint hole filing.. use a air hammer..
When speaking about the hand: Using a plaster cast will end up with shrinking at around 7%, that number reduces using a ceramic shell.
Take all the pieces of the model and load all them into mesh mixer All at once it should auto assemble the model for you into one piece that you can export and then print I hope this helps
Not bad, not bad at all.
You can easily remove what you call flashing with some specific chisels and hammer.
Do you call it something else?
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Oh no it's just that I'm not a native English speaker so my bronze casting vocabulary in English is very limited! I work in a bronze casting atelier, we make little chisels and texture 'stamps' from different scraps of tool steel, harden them, both for hammering/peening by hand and for pneumatic hammers.
@@palermo777 I see. I’ll have to try that next time. Thanks.
I'll place an opening bid!
has been said before, but hot water basically removes supports scar less making this step even enjoyable.
That’s good to know.
You can buy special resin for casting
You must have skipped that part of the video where I explained that that is what this is.
Flashing here is resulted by wrong temperature cycle. You suppose to burn that at rates that they are providing (thay have instruction on a website) instead of eyeballing it. Also 1100 degrees is a bit to much for mold itself. It always about 'Longer not hotter'. Hope next time you will get cleaner result!
hello lundgren can i ask if u would make a bronze cane handle on commission . i can send u pictures of what i want thank u in advance
I just think the problem started with you favourite animated character not being Fone Bone, Casper the Friendly Ghost or Moominpapa. I'm thinking there would have been a lot less challenges there.
Nah. Why start with an easy one for the first project. Haha.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios Well…. But that’s how some of us learned to swim, just get tossed into the pond and hope for the best.
Temperatures change as fire hearing gold
Why not model the sprue into the model so you don't have to attach them
That might work better next time.
👍Nice
No way did I think those joins we’re gonna be repaired!
try removing the supports before curing. They'll leave a lot less marks
I think you are right about that. I just need to be carful with how fragile the resin is.
Two things that improved immensely the quality of my prints it to do that and change the support penetration depth to zero. But I've only used stardand resins so far@@lundgrenbronzestudios
🤙👍
nice video, this resin is better burnt out at like 1350f
Good to know. I haven’t heard anyone give a good burn out schedule for it.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios probably 3 hr 150f then 3 hr 1350f for starters. 4 hr for a big flask like that probably
супер!
UV Resin mit einem Lötkolben zu erhitzen setzt gefährliche Dämpfe frei …. was zeigst du da 🤔🤷🏼♂️
Yes
Die Hand hätte ich z.b. mit Silberlot gemacht, da kann man die Hitze besser kontrollieren …
Silver is the wrong color.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios colorchanging mit Messing/kupfer zugabe 😉
@@lundgrenbronzestudios noch mal zur Erklärung, ich mache mein Silberlot auch selbst, und kann dadurch auch die Farbe anpassen … ich finde halt, eine weiche Flamme besser als ein Schweißgerät … 😉🤷🏼♂️
clear coating brass or bronze is an absolute waste of time, other than that great work dude! :)
It’s not a waste of time because it helps keep oxidation and preserves the color of the patina. If you don’t you can’t get spots of alteration.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios with wood silk bees wax based polish you can. But at least you didn't polish it. So the clear coat stands a chance of staying stuck to the metal. I cast, and polish / make for a living too. (welcome to the club) x
you know you could have used a brass solder on that cracked hand instead of welding it and avoided all of that extra welding and grinding work
Brass is the wrong color.
@lundgrenbronzestudios brass, copper, or bronze, they still make soldering wire for all 3. It's still cheaper than welding
@@thomaswakefield6889 hmm. are there any TH-camrs that show the process of using solders for fixing sculptures? I’ve never seen that before.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios it's the same process as soldering a copper sheet metal to copper sheet metal or brass to brass.
@@thomaswakefield6889 with sheet metal it’s easy to heat up the thin metal but with the mass of the sculpture it’s so thick that it becomes a heat sink and it’s hard to get things to stick. I’ve tried but couldn’t get anything to stick. I may need an oxy, acetylene torch but I know there is a trick to it. I haven’t seen anyone show how they do it on sculptures.
You could start with something a bit simpler :)
Add a bracelet to the broken wrist
DIY youtubers don't really know UV light is highly carcinogenic!?
So is the sun.
👏🤣😂😉🤙@@lundgrenbronzestudios
Habe ich schon in fdm Druck vor fast 8 Jahren gemacht … ist also nichts neues 🤷🏼♂️
Good job.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios in SLA ist Dental Resin noch eine gute Wahl 👍🏻. Der Schmelzpunkt ist niedriger
Быстро остужаешь бро,вот и трещины.
Resin is a pain. So messy, sticky, brittle. And temperamental. You dont use it for a month and everything is a sticky clogged up mess. I put mine away on the shelf and counted it a loss. Additive is just so much faster and easier. Man I really want to try some casting, but so far Im terrible at it.
It definitely takes practice.
It's a process to learn but once you learn correctly, it becomes a breeze and very easy to make everything work flawlessly, every time. I'd rather gouge my eyes out with a hot spoon than use the super slow and ugly fdm methods for casting lol Casting resins differ in quality, sirayas been the best affordable and BlueCast x-one used by professional jewellers as a resin of choice, but its 4x more costly than siraya with its minor process issues
Maybe. Mine is formlabs and was around $4k. Was like the best at the time. Just not worth the mess to me. And the speed seemed slower if anything compared to fdm. Especially with all the cleaning and curing. Its way quicker to do fdm, but yes the layer lines are a deal breaker for some processes. @@noviceartisan
@@dcmotive nobody likes formlabs 😂 They're SO overpriced for what you get, and for the consumables, its ridiculous. The machines do work, but you're paying into a rather ludicrous scheme with them that's not ultimately for your benefit. Their machines are okay, but not something I would ever recommend over a contemporary bottom end printer like the Mars 4 Ultra, or Sonic Mini 8Ks which are also the best printers for jewellers currently, unless they want to spend very big sums on marginal xy improvements (mars 4 ultra and Sonic Mini 8ks are 18 microns xy, which is staggeringly good).
These printers also print crazy fast too, like a densely packed buildplate of 100+ rings in 3 hours, to that 18 micron accuracy.
Formlabs was very good to start and they built a large business model off of it, but they're far behind the times, mostly pushing themselves onto business users who are still comparing first gen resin consumer printers to current gen fdm.
Theres a learning curve sure, but once you master it you'll never look back. The only consumables on the mentioned printers are the vat film, which you can replace directly, usually 5 very good sheets for £25 or less depending on printer, the LCD (30-60 average) and the resin.. Nothing else breaks. Once calibrated correctly and once you've learnt how to support manually, no auto, and how to deal with the post print process (most use a wash and cure machine these days, I still use tubs and ultrasonic) it's basically unbreakable.
For around £200-£300 you get the whole printer, I do recommend getting one of those and trying again. Quality is night and day. And the current regular abs like resins from Anycubic & Elegoo are also crazy strong, non brittle and even flexible. Its just specialty ones that require compromises, same as with printing high temp filaments or tpu
I've spoken with a number of jewellers in person about their formlabs printers and several have the same fuck it why I buy this attitude, and they've been overjoyed after ditching it and trying the better, insanely cheaper, printers with modern resins :)
print by casting vaX RESIN BRO WITH ALL BRIM YOU NEED IN ONE.. this is wasting of time..
I don’t understand what you are saying.
That had to be one of the dumbest movies of all time. What is wrong with people?
People sure seemed to like it.
@@lundgrenbronzestudios I love your channel. Please don't think just because I think this movie is stupid AF that I'm just here to hate.
Amazing tutorial of what not to do.
Learning from others mistakes is really useful.