People with T3PA pedals or similar, when in game, press the brake pedal as hard as you can few times, then fully press gas and clutch. this way the pedals are calibrated and now they know where is the 100% mark. If you don't do this and for example press the brake 50% down, the pedals will think that that 50% mark is 100% (this is what is mention in video when he said he pressed brake half way and then if it pressed it more, it goes to 100% and locks the brakes up). Its listed in the manual, but people don't read it and most if not all reviewers don't know about this or mention it :D
Hi, thank you for commenting. I seem to remember I did this 50% thing as it was the advice given for people who were having issues with controlled braking (but it was a bit back so I might be mis-remembering) and that was why I did that. But either way, I found the T3PA hard to use, and that's probably because it felt so different from my daily ride (in my real car) and although the Load Cell isn't the same either, it is a closer approximation of how a real brake pedal works. That being said, I do know people who still use the T3PA to great effect, and still get faster times than me, so a lot of it is of course down to the ability of the sim racer. For me, the Load Cell pedal was just a much better fit for me.
@@OlderGamersPerspective I think you misunderstood what i meant with the 50% thing :) The way you setup your old pedals is all fine and okay. What i mean is the way TM pedals like T3PA and similar work(this doesn't apply to T-LCM) is that when you first start a game the pedals have no idea where the 100% pedal position is. So you jump in a car and press the pedal lets say 30%, now the pedals think that 30% you pressed it is full 100% pedal position(which is wrong, of course), hope that makes sense. This is why before driving always mash the pedals to their max as far as they go, so they calibrate and actually know the 100% pedal position. This doesn't apply to T-LCM pedals. Load cell pedals are more superior than normal non load cell pedals, no doubt in that. Good video, keep up the great work.
@@byCDMC Thank you for the comment, that's a lot clearer. Always so much for me to learn about sim racing, it's great the community is able to do this. Thank you again for your comments.
@@ajoydas-Watch-It nope, you dont have to mash them like old ones to calibrate and use before driving/racing. "3 pedal mash" only applies to non T-LCM pedals. so if you use T-LCM pedals, you dont need to mash them :D
Very nice review. And i must say , right on time. I was just searching for this when i saw your content. All the videos i saw was from a year ago. Nice to see this is still a good choice.
Thank you very much, glad you enjoyed the video and remained calm while viewing it. Let me know how you get on with the pedals. I found they work well if you can secure them to something. Carpet grippers are not going to work well here, nor a brick wall behind it. Mostly you will need some kind of wheel base or better still, a rig.
Love your voice and speaking rhythm. You deserve way more subs. I also started with T3PAs that came with my T300RS. At the moment I'm using Fanatec's ecosystem and am really satisfied. A little more pricy but definitely worth it. Keep it up. Cheers!
Thank you for the feedback. I am glad you liked the video and hopefully those subs will arrive in the course of time :) How's the fanatec treating you? Is that with a load cell setup?
Wow, I was really impressed with this review and I cannot believe you don’t have 50k+ subscribers! I’m definitely considering load cell pedals, thanks for the video.
Yes :) what's really hilarious is that those cars were at P1 and P2, and that was the final lap and they crashed and wrecked just short of the finish line. Even the one who flew through the air, didn't cross the line. I mean, hilarious for me....
Fantastic video! I just bought a bundle that came with the T LCM pedals I didnt know what to make of them until now I appreciate them better with your review
I would seriously consider the elastomer solution - the springs, even the stiffest, never felt like I was pressing a brake pedal. I used some soft skateboard bushings in place of one of the springs which improved things considerably, but they were a bit too stiff. I upgraded to HE Sprints before I found a good solution for the T-LCM. Heusinkveld actually sells a replacement elastomer kit for the Sprints, and while I've never tested them, they do look as if they would fit the T-LCMs quite nicely.
Good video. I went from base logitech to fanatec load cell a couple of months ago. I went slightly quicker but consistency increased big time due to logitechs vagueness. And I had improved the logitech with a spring setup and diy bodnar cable. So I highly recommend upgrading.
Hi, glad you found the video helpful. The load cells do make an incredible difference. Looking forwarded to trying out some of the newer stuff at the ADAC sim racing expo in October.
Ive had my tmlc pedals about a year now, everything in this video is accurate but over time they have become very creaky and noisy, ive tried the elastomer upgrades and stripped them down to regrease moving parts and pivot points, this helps a bit but hasn't cured the creaking under heavy braking. Just to come off topic, where is the Thrustmaster direct drive for consoles??
Mine are coming up on their anniversary in a two months time. So far they are still quiet, in fact most of the noise comes from the gear changers on my Moza R9, the ES wheel. Man are they loud. I mean really, earth shattering loud. Anyway, glad you liked the video, and just a heads-up, I have ordered a haptic feedback kit for the brake and accelerator, which should arrive sometime next month. They need Sim Hub to work and will apparently add some vibration to my feet. Can't wait :) Needless to say, a video on this will be made :) OH and thrustmaster... Yes, where are they? Totally missing from last years ADAC sim racing expo, as were Logitech. It's almost as though they are not longer interested in this market.
Hi, i have a question about t3pa. My accelerator pedal is shaking a little bit. Does this model have that porblem or only my? Thank you for answer and have nice day
I've just taken a look at mine and there is some side to side movement in it, a few millimetres, but I can't honestly tell you if it has always been like this or gone like that over time. In comparison to the brake or clutch pedal, it is clearly more movement, but the accelerator pedal is a longer pedal, so that might also be why. Hope this helps.
I use these pedals they are great.. there is a bolt in the middle bottom for the break tighten it.. your springs is perfect red silver black i advise you to put gain on 55
I am not too sure. I had a rig similar to the Challenge playseat, but I only used it with the T3PA pedals, having upgraded to an GT Omega Art rig before I got the T-LCM. You could probably get away with it if you bought some of those strengtheners that I have seen advertised on Etsy and places like that. Otherwise, I think you might eventually see a failure in where the footpedals attach to the chair. Let me know how it turned out.
Thanks for the video. I've been looking to upgrade my T300 pedals and now I know what to buy. I have a GT Omega Art cockpit and have been concerned about the fittings for fanatec etc. A quick question, what Moza wheelbase do you use?
Hi, I am glad the video can help you. I am using a Moza R9 wheel. You can find a video of how I moved from a T300 to an R9 here: th-cam.com/video/VAY-Ff1G6t4/w-d-xo.html Bolts onto the Omega Art with no issues, and I've never had an issue with flex or anything like that. Needs some time to customise the profile in the Moza software to get it to your liking, but once done, you can pretty much forget the settings are always there. Let me know how you get on.
Thanks for the info. Following a generous donation from HMRC! I went for the full Moza Ecosystem - R9, GS Wheel and SRP Pedals. Im sure it wont make me any faster but hopefully being passed by other cars mill be a nicer experience. @@OlderGamersPerspective
It definitely is a better experience, being passed by faster cars while you are driving with cool gear. I should know, it happens to me all the time :) Enjoy your new gear. Let me know how you get on.
I have the T-LCM pedals and I play at a desk. You’re right that it is a pain in the butt to get them to not move. The other reason I would recommend a sim rig with these pedals is just ergonomics. Playing at a desk with the way my feet are positioned compared to my body in a computer chair just makes it painful after a while. The top of my foot gets so sore from the angle. It’s just not a natural position for your feet to have to press a sprinted brake pedal.
Yes, I was in that position myself a while back, when I sold one rig and ordered another, but there was a period of time between them where I had no rig and was playing with the wheel attached to a table clamp, the pedals under the desk, and me sitting on an office chair that rolled back whenever I pressed to hard on the brake. One thing I noticed in the office chair was that my accelerator leg (right leg in my case) was aching after a prolonged session, and I had knee pains the next day, so watch out for your comfort, it is an early warning that you are making your body do stuff it shouldn't, Your Sore Foot is a red flag. Figure out what you can do to change that as soon as you can.
Hello, thank you for commenting on this video :) Glad you like the narration, it was fun to do. Cool idea about the sim racer explosion, I shall do some research on this :)
Great video, amazing effort. I’m using Logitech G29 and looking for first set of load cells. Been looking at Moza SRP, fanatec elite v2 and the TLCM, I use a playseat challenge and reckon the TLCM could be the best option. Your video really helped.
Hi, I am glad you found the video helpful. A load cell pedal does add a bit more pressure onto a rig, so with the Playseat Challenge, you may need to consider a reinforcement kit (available from various places on the internet), that will strengthen up your foot pedal area. Having said that, your driving style might not need it, so it's worth attaching the pedals to the rig first to see if there is any flex while braking heavily. Either way, let me know how it turns out.
I'm in the same boat and I'm curious what you ended up going with. I also use the Playseat Challenge + Thrustmaster T300 and want to upgrade to load cell pedals, but I'm unsure whether to go with T-LCM or SRP. T-LCM would be easier to fit but SRP is almost 100€ cheaper (which is weird considering that Moza seems like the more premium brand)
@@TzeiEm hi, I went with the tlcm and they have been really good. In terms of lap time wouldn’t say improved much but consistency definitely works better. Interesting with different pressure springs, which really is down to personal choice, I went with the red then 4 middle spacers then the black.
Informative and humorous. I mostly play GT7 and have been struggling to get used to pedals over the controller. I'd been considering the T-LCMs at some point. I currently have the T-3PA Pro.
Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed the video. To me the pedals, going to a Load cell, made more difference to my overall ability to drive than the wheel, although the wheel gives me much better feedback, particularly in oval tracks (for whatever reason), so as an upgrade, the load cell is a great one to make, but only if you have a rig to secure it to, otherwise you might struggle to get the best from it.
Hey your TP3A pedals , did they accelerator pedal rattle by any chance? I just received the T300 RS kit today brand new and without even setting it up took the pedals out as I had to measure the holes to see if it'll mount a challenge X seat and the accelerator pedal rattles.. Like a cheap toy.. I won't be able to deal with it moving forward, no chance, so I haven't set anything up and created a case with Thurstmaster... Just wondering if you experienced this before you upgraded. Looks like I'm going to have to fork out again for the T-LCM :( Oh and whilst on topic? Do any of the pedals on the T-LCM rattle ?
Been a while since I used the TP3A, but if they did rattle, I am pretty sure I would have remembered, so I am guessing that they never did. Sounds like you have a faulty model to me, so contact Thrustmaster before you use it too much. The T-LCM, I would say, is very much the same, in that I can't remember any rattles, in fact I was just using it a moment ago and even though I have rumble motors attached to these pedals, I am not getting any rattling, far as I can tell. Hope this helps. Oh and if you want to join other like minded souls of sim racing, jump over to my discord group - discord.gg/Nw7rfNmy
I’d like to go for load cell pedals but I fear that at minimum strength it’s still to hard to push for 100% braking. Is it possible to make this t-lcm quite soft with the softer springs and force to 0 in the software ?
You can put on the very light springs, and if they turn out to be too light, you can change them for a combination that's a bit tougher. They are very easy to change, and can be done in just a few minutes. The software is also very customisable, but only if you have the pedals connected to your computer via USB, not into a Thrustmaster steering wheel via the PS2 connector. Whether or not the combination will make it light enough for you, I can't say for sure, as I don't know exactly how light you want it to be. Either way, even at it's lightest, a Load cell pedal is going to be tougher to press than a standard pedal. Hope this helps.
I had the TLCM for almost 2 years and i also have the hardest springs on. Never had an issue with using socks, even when heel and toe braking. So I wouldnt classify this as a universal problem. They're a nice set of pedals though. Enjoy them :)
One word of advice from a fellow T-LCM pedal owner: order replacement springs for the throttle and clutch... they will snap in half after 2 years of usage...
I just needed a replacement set belonging to the Thrustmaster Ferrari Integral Alacantara edition with what looks like your old peadals, they where £100 pound cheaper. I'm just hoping they have the same fitting, the connection as the set that came with mine are T3PA, which is on the box but confusing. Do you know? I may get the time loader peadals next time, Thanks or Slainte 👍
I'm afraid I have never used this combination, although Thrustmaster tend to use similar connections across their range, probably to save money, so I would say you have a chance, but order from somewhere that offers a good returns policy.
I currently use a T500 with included pedal set and a basher boards brake mod (those skateboard tyres kits). But having upgraded (?) to a wheel stand my pedals don't allow the stand to be folded and put away. Long story - I retired from sim racing 5 years ago and no longer have room in my man cave due to a nice leather 3 seat couch taking up the space. I'm having another go. What's your opinion regarding the loadcell and arthritic knees? I can manage with the current brake in use, as long as I limit myself to under 3 hours at a time.
That's a difficult question to answer. I can say that I have some muscle issues in my leg, and when first using the load cell brake I could feel it the next day. Possibly you would need to use the lighter spring set, or adapt it using one of the mod sets, similar to the board mod you have been using. Either way, you need to order from somewhere that offers a good returns policy. This is the sort of question you could ask over at the Older Gamer Discord channel. Lots of people there or a certain age are available to help, someone might have a more personal experience they can share with you. Take a look here if you are interested - discord.gg/7U34BsqDXj
It will help you once you adapt to using a load cell pedal. This does require a learning curve and it will take a bit of time to get used to, but eventually, once you have everything set up, you should find braking to be overall better.
I need to switch from T-LCM mode to T3PA mode, for this i need to press left shifter paddle and the Mode button for 2 sec at the same time, the problem is i got a wheel with no shifter paddles, i have no idea what i could do. Heeellllppp please someone 😭🙏
when going in the corner and i hit the brakes , will these springs help when letting go of the breaks, i don't want the pedal to go back up quickly. I want a slow reset when i am letting go of the brakes, does that make sense?
It does make sense, and I get what you are trying to do, I think I am trying to do something similar here myself. I would say that it sort of helps, but it's because the springs and the load cell functionality offer a greater level of refinement when it comes to simply pushing down the pedal with your foot. It just feels better, and give you better control of smaller inputs on the brake. At least, it's better than the simple potentiometer system used by non-load cell pedals. Be aware though, Load Cell pedals do have a learning curve, so you may find you don't take to them straight away, but if you keep at it, they will improve your braking.
I didnt read through all the comments to see if its been answered or not, but you can invert T3PA pedals so they are hung like they are in a real car, Im wondering if both clutch and throttle having halls sensors are for that reason. I literally just got a set of these a couple hrs ago for xmas and looking for setup videos, sooo, Im assuming these can be inverted as well but was looking for verification, this might be it
I have not had any experience in inverting pedals, but I did find this for you: th-cam.com/video/p00s83CHDzU/w-d-xo.html Which is a very cheap way of doing it, but seems to suggest that, technically, it is possible. Good luck, and let me know how it turned out.
About to pull the trigger on these, they are on special where I live for another week - thank you for your review! It’s a low enough price for me to justify upgrading my pedals :) As a fellow older gamer, I’d like to know - after having these pedals for a while now, how are your knees going? Are these pedals too tough for old gamers knees?
I had some knee pain a few days ago, but I think that might have been the activities I was doing before racing (fitness studio, gardening, life), but I have been advised to move the brake pedal over (the bit you put your foot on can be adjusted laterally) to stop my knee from twisting while doing left foot braking. Otherwise, you can reduce the pressure of the brake pedal, both by using lighter springs, and also adjust a bolt underneath the brakepedal which adjust the tension of the pedal. Hope this helps.
I will be honest and say I don't know the answer to this question. But there are a number of clever and knowledge people on my Discord server discord.gg/QNFtHutX so if you do the discord thing, pop over there and ask this question.
I made exactly the same transitioning as you the day before yesterday. I have played only five hours ACC on PS5 with the new pedals and the feel is superior for sure over the T3PA. I don't see my lap times getting better neither being more consistent, i think it's too early to have a certain opinion. I use the same setup as you regarding the springs and the brake force set to 75. Because i bought a used set of T-LCM pedals i do not have all the washers included but only one. I would like to ask you if you tried putting the washers in the pre load spring and what is your experience with that. Take a sub from me, your channel is great. You deserve more!
Thank you for the feedback and also the sub :) I did not try the washers, at least not yet, as I felt the precompress worked better for me with zero washers in there. But far as I can see, they are fairly common washers, so if you take the one you have to a hardware story, you should be able to find a matching set. When I first got these pedals, I remember my lap times going the wrong way, but then I realised I was still driving like I had the T3PA under my feet, and that did take a bit of unlearning before I could get it right. So, I would say, you are right, it is too early yet to judge. Keep with it, and if you are anything like me, remember you don't have to hammer that brake any more, you can tickle it a little more. Some one else said the force can also be set to 50 and it is better, but so far I haven't tried that as I don't want to upset my times, but I think the main reason for that was some knee pain I was getting due to the extra pressure needed to use a LC pedal.
Do you mean it is physically someone has changed the pedal to the right or in the configuration it's on the right? If it's just physically, then I think you can change them back without too much fuss, some people change the clutch pedal and spring to be the throttle because they say it feels better. If you bought this unit new, then you should complain. If it's second-hand, then I would try it first, as it is, and if you like it, leave it, otherwise, change it over. Makes sure you use the correct tools to take it apart and look out for any washers or springs that might escape while doing so.
@@OlderGamersPerspective I've brought it brand new out the box the Accelerator is on the left i need it on the right im so confused by this because I brought the T3PA from the same place and the Accelerator is on the right on them
@@AaronMartin7193 you should contact the people that sent it to you. To me this clearly is incorrect and either been altered by someone who had it before you and returned it, or it was assembled wrong at the factory. Either way, it probably should be returned.
I am using an old M-Audio Producer USB mic that I bought a number of years ago. Been thinking of upgrading it to be honest. But at the moment, it sits on my desk, on a short stand, right in front of me, with a pop blocker between me and the mic. I have found that putting the text on my second monitor (which is to my right) and looking in that direction also helps with reducing the pops when talking. I am fairly close to the mic, which I am not sure is a good thing, and I would prefer to get a mic arm/boom thingy, but my desk is very deep and there is no way to use the side of the desk due to a drawer unit being there. In all, it's not ideal, but it's what I had in my possession and so I just went with it. I am glad you find it smooth and clear. I don't add any filters to the audio and record directly into Camtasia using the Narration feature, which I find easier. On scripted videos, I put down the audio first and then cut out as many of the umms and ahhs as I can, and any pauses that are too long. On 'live' videos I narrate off-the-cuff and so the video goes in first and audio second, although I do sometimes cut out stuff to keep it punchy. I have yet to do a live stream, the nearest I got to this was the Moza 9 review video where I narrated while driving and then put that together later. This had two downsides, firstly my driving sucked while I tried to multi task, and secondly, I used replay to put the video with the audio and so people assumed I was driving in third person, where as I was in reality using cockpit view. When I recorded this audio, while driving, I used a Zoom H1 with a Lav mic and synced everything up in post. I hope this information helps you.
From my experience it is just a different way of doing the same thing, I went from a G27 to Fanatec CSR to a G29, it is all about adapting to what you have, but with a load cell you definitely need a cockpit of sorts. I actually like a lot the stock "two-stage" braking + the app sensitivity adjustment of the Logitech G29, just got a TG-T recently and I am very disappointed about the T3PA compared to the G29... I really hate how Thrustmaster likes to bundle good stuff with bad stuff.
Yes, I can remember that, going from one set of pedals to the next, and just finding a way to adjust technique to suit the equipment you had. I also felt the same way about the pedals that came with the T300, they really were not a match for the wheel, which was pretty good for a non-DD wheel. The big question about Thrustmaster, and indeed Logitech, is where are they now? There was a time they ruled the wheel market, now, you don't even see them at trade shows.
@@OlderGamersPerspective I have been out of the loop about the best beginner wheel in recent years but what I always liked about the Logitech G27 / G29 is that they give everything in one set (3 pedals/shifter) and in a good accessible price point.
They are very good value, and years back, I started on something similar that I borrowed from a friend, but the lure of the Direct Drive wheel and a better brake pedal proved to strong :) What can I say? I am weak :)
I don't have any experience with Direct Drive wheels and consoles as I use the PC exclusively. I would ask this question on Reddit, where you will get a better answer. Let me know how you get on.
As far as I have read elsewhere the calibration set up on the PC doesn't carry forward to the console. I did set mine up on PC but I don't think it was necessary. On GT7 just press your pedals to where you want 100% to be and they are now calibrated on GT7. Not sure about other racing games.
Yes you can plug into your base and use, but for best results your going to need to use the software on a PC to calibrate properly. Once calibrated on a PC, unplug and connect to the base, and the settings will be saved and carried over to play on the console. I use an apex purple mod with a red spring and slider set to 97%, as the springs alone are very easy to overcome, and don’t supply just as good or as accurate a feeling underfoot as an elastomer modification.
Hi, glad you found the video helpful. I've had the ART rig now for a few months, with the XL seat, and I find it to be one of the best platforms I have used for sim racing. Very comfortable and able to cope with the demands of a load cell pedal and a direct drive wheel. I did a full review over at th-cam.com/video/QHyC_SPhPKQ/w-d-xo.html but at this point I was using the T300 and not the Moza R9. But the rig coped with the Direct drive with no issues and, as far as I can tell, no flex.
Yeah that was a hilarious crash moment. The two cars crashing each other out, about 40 meters short of the finishing line. Still one of my favourite crash replays that actually features me :)
@@OlderGamersPerspective yes and I have simsok. The grips was a little strange under foot at first but with a couple of uses you don’t notice it. You don’t get the numb foot and with the load cell set to full 100% with max springs and no preload by using the washers it’s fine
@@OlderGamersPerspective personally I’ve only tried the simsok one so far. I’m on my first pair that are around 7 months old. They are made of a lovely material and are nice snug fit. The only issue I would say I can see happening some cases is the grips may ware off for a heel toe driver. But that’s for someone else as use sequential. But I will definitely be looking at some others to compare after these feel like it’s time to replace. As it’s my first set. I use to just double up on normal socks
@@OlderGamersPerspective Rip will 😔 0:43 ... He was a youtuber passionate about simracing like you. Unfortunately there was no wake up call for him one morning 😔 His channel is still present on youtube.
@@THESHADOW97139 Ah I see. I picked those various clips pretty much at random. I had not realised he passed away. I'll leave that clip there as a tribute to him and I will check out his videos. Thank you for letting me know.
@@OlderGamersPerspective Not long, in total 4 hours but revisiting all the circuits and cars to get a feel for them. And feel like installing the old pedals again. I left foot brake with bare feet and got quite a finesse feel going with the old pedals (T300RS) VR + Playseat challenge. I've tried a wide variety of cars and had to go back to slower ones to start the learning curve over, as I was a full 10 seconds slower in the vintage Ferrari F1 cars. The calibration tool doesn't work in windows 11. The pedals are certainly more immersive tough, as they had me instantly desiring the shifter, where as before I wasn't bothered. I use paddles with throttle blip. The cars now snap a lot or drift when I've finished braking. Looks like I'll need to wait for time off work for some serious testing.
@@richy69ify The calibration tool works on my windows 11, it's the TM sim Pedals Calibration tool - if you don't have the correct one yet, you can find it here = support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-lcm-pedals-en/ This will only work if your pedals are plugged into your computer via the USB lead, it won't function if you have it lopped into the steering wheel with the PS2 type connector (whatever its called, I forget). But I can tell you it works fine for me, so take another look and see what you can do with it. Swapping out the springs can also help, trying different combinations until you have one that works well with your style of driving. Then stick with the one car, your favourite, until you have an angle on how these pedals work. When I put them on, I was at first slower, but after a while, I got the hang of it, but I don't think I used the older pedals for as long as you have, so maybe my transition period was bound to be shorter due to me having less experience. Keep on plugging away at them, I think they are great pedals and I still use mine today (just finished a race just now - although I came a disappointing 5th, fairly sure the pedals were not to blame :) ) You can also jump over the older gamer discord channel - discord.gg/pHJpvNff and post your issues in the Sim race help channel. Lots of great people here with lots of experience, and all willing to help out fellow sim racers.
@@OlderGamersPerspective Thanks for your help. The calibrator comes up and responds but it's always garbled across the screen. I've since discovered I had left stability control on 25% on my steam launcher, but I had previously been using content manager last year which is set to pro mode. It's much better without. I've now fitted the white spring for my bare feet and going back to school by braking earlier. Looking at my old ghost cars I was very late braking. It's possible I'd managed get too used to the flaws in the old pedals, so need to change my style a bit. I'm sure I'll get there. As I mentioned before these pedals are nice a jump up in immersion.
@@OlderGamersPerspective i have had several different ones. the plastic housing is just open to flex a lot, seen a few clips were they simply brake too. for me the quality from the fanatec v3's are a starting point, from there it goes up quickly and currently using the pricy heusinkveld sprints myself. sure they are slightly better then your old pedal set but as loadcell pedals they really aren't actually good.
@@D0G_CN I would say from my perspective the T-LCM offers a much better experience, way more than slightly better. But that is my subjective experience. They are simply much better. The Fanatec V3's certainly look cool, but they are twice the price of the T-LCM, and not everyone has that sort of money.
@@OlderGamersPerspective ok, ill give you that. sure they are a lot better then pot - based pedals because you got said loadcell. and offcourse not everybody has v3's money and surely not have heusinkveld pedals money. you do the best with the money you got, but even the latest fanatec lc pedals (witch are way cheaper then the t-lcm pedals) are better. not saying you should have or could have mind you, just pointing something out here. offcourse this is just my opinion and how important is that in a pool of 7 billion opinions? im not trying to make you regret it either, play on brother
I had a careful listen last night, and there was a tiny bit of noise from the springs on the brake, but not loud enough to be heard over the game, and certainly drowned out by the noise of my gear changing paddles on my Moza R9 (very loud). So I would say, you should be okay.
Best review of an upgrade to a load cell brake that I saw. Removed a lot of doubts that no one talked about.
Thank you, I am glad you found the video helpful :) Hopefully in the future I can do a video on the customisations that can be done to this pedal set.
People with T3PA pedals or similar, when in game, press the brake pedal as hard as you can few times, then fully press gas and clutch. this way the pedals are calibrated and now they know where is the 100% mark. If you don't do this and for example press the brake 50% down, the pedals will think that that 50% mark is 100% (this is what is mention in video when he said he pressed brake half way and then if it pressed it more, it goes to 100% and locks the brakes up). Its listed in the manual, but people don't read it and most if not all reviewers don't know about this or mention it :D
Hi, thank you for commenting.
I seem to remember I did this 50% thing as it was the advice given for people who were having issues with controlled braking (but it was a bit back so I might be mis-remembering) and that was why I did that. But either way, I found the T3PA hard to use, and that's probably because it felt so different from my daily ride (in my real car) and although the Load Cell isn't the same either, it is a closer approximation of how a real brake pedal works.
That being said, I do know people who still use the T3PA to great effect, and still get faster times than me, so a lot of it is of course down to the ability of the sim racer.
For me, the Load Cell pedal was just a much better fit for me.
@@OlderGamersPerspective I think you misunderstood what i meant with the 50% thing :) The way you setup your old pedals is all fine and okay. What i mean is the way TM pedals like T3PA and similar work(this doesn't apply to T-LCM) is that when you first start a game the pedals have no idea where the 100% pedal position is. So you jump in a car and press the pedal lets say 30%, now the pedals think that 30% you pressed it is full 100% pedal position(which is wrong, of course), hope that makes sense. This is why before driving always mash the pedals to their max as far as they go, so they calibrate and actually know the 100% pedal position. This doesn't apply to T-LCM pedals. Load cell pedals are more superior than normal non load cell pedals, no doubt in that. Good video, keep up the great work.
@@byCDMC Thank you for the comment, that's a lot clearer. Always so much for me to learn about sim racing, it's great the community is able to do this. Thank you again for your comments.
@@byCDMC does this apply for all 3 pedals mash them all down before driving? Just asking since I just purchased a used TGT 2.
@@ajoydas-Watch-It nope, you dont have to mash them like old ones to calibrate and use before driving/racing. "3 pedal mash" only applies to non T-LCM pedals. so if you use T-LCM pedals, you dont need to mash them :D
Love the videos, always honest & humorous 😂
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it :) They are fun to make.
Very nice review. And i must say , right on time. I was just searching for this when i saw your content. All the videos i saw was from a year ago. Nice to see this is still a good choice.
I am glad the video was of some help to you :) Did you buy the T-LCM?
@@OlderGamersPerspective still looking for a good deal on a used one.
I like how you talk about the benefits while watching crashes
LOL - I like doing that. The irony appeals to me. Plenty of that in my other two videos if you have had a chance to check them out.
Fantastic review and very calming! Excited for my new pedals to arrive 🏁🏁🏁
Thank you very much, glad you enjoyed the video and remained calm while viewing it.
Let me know how you get on with the pedals. I found they work well if you can secure them to something. Carpet grippers are not going to work well here, nor a brick wall behind it. Mostly you will need some kind of wheel base or better still, a rig.
So you finally bit the bullet hey.
Love your voice and speaking rhythm. You deserve way more subs. I also started with T3PAs that came with my T300RS. At the moment I'm using Fanatec's ecosystem and am really satisfied. A little more pricy but definitely worth it. Keep it up. Cheers!
Thank you for the feedback. I am glad you liked the video and hopefully those subs will arrive in the course of time :)
How's the fanatec treating you? Is that with a load cell setup?
Wow, I was really impressed with this review and I cannot believe you don’t have 50k+ subscribers! I’m definitely considering load cell pedals, thanks for the video.
Thank you very much, that's very kind of you :)
Wow that was quite an adventure the MX-5 had at 6:30
Yes :) what's really hilarious is that those cars were at P1 and P2, and that was the final lap and they crashed and wrecked just short of the finish line. Even the one who flew through the air, didn't cross the line. I mean, hilarious for me....
I'm glad I found your channel. Great informative and well made video!
Thank you for the feedback. I am glad you found the video helpful :)
Great vid, thank you. Hope to see more of your vids in the future!
Thank you for commenting on this video :) I hope to make more videos of products in the future.
Fantastic video! I just bought a bundle that came with the T LCM pedals I didnt know what to make of them until now I appreciate them better with your review
Hi, glad you enjoyed the video and found something in there to make your sim racing experience more enjoyable. Happy racing :)
I would seriously consider the elastomer solution - the springs, even the stiffest, never felt like I was pressing a brake pedal. I used some soft skateboard bushings in place of one of the springs which improved things considerably, but they were a bit too stiff. I upgraded to HE Sprints before I found a good solution for the T-LCM. Heusinkveld actually sells a replacement elastomer kit for the Sprints, and while I've never tested them, they do look as if they would fit the T-LCMs quite nicely.
I am going to look into the elastomer kits, as I am very curious about how much difference it will make to the brake pedal and it's responsiveness.
Good video. I went from base logitech to fanatec load cell a couple of months ago. I went slightly quicker but consistency increased big time due to logitechs vagueness. And I had improved the logitech with a spring setup and diy bodnar cable. So I highly recommend upgrading.
Hi, glad you found the video helpful. The load cells do make an incredible difference. Looking forwarded to trying out some of the newer stuff at the ADAC sim racing expo in October.
Ive had my tmlc pedals about a year now, everything in this video is accurate but over time they have become very creaky and noisy, ive tried the elastomer upgrades and stripped them down to regrease moving parts and pivot points, this helps a bit but hasn't cured the creaking under heavy braking. Just to come off topic, where is the Thrustmaster direct drive for consoles??
Mine are coming up on their anniversary in a two months time. So far they are still quiet, in fact most of the noise comes from the gear changers on my Moza R9, the ES wheel. Man are they loud. I mean really, earth shattering loud.
Anyway, glad you liked the video, and just a heads-up, I have ordered a haptic feedback kit for the brake and accelerator, which should arrive sometime next month. They need Sim Hub to work and will apparently add some vibration to my feet.
Can't wait :)
Needless to say, a video on this will be made :)
OH and thrustmaster... Yes, where are they? Totally missing from last years ADAC sim racing expo, as were Logitech. It's almost as though they are not longer interested in this market.
Awesome and informative video, this will help with my decision thanks! :)
Thank you for commenting on this video. Let me know what you decide to get and how it works out for you.
Your narrative is off the charts. 😂👌
Great review as well.
Thinking about this exact upgrade for GT7.
Thank you, glad you liked the video :)
Best of luck with your upgrade.
Brilliant review well done👏
Thank you for your comment. I hope you found the review helpful.
Hi, i have a question about t3pa. My accelerator pedal is shaking a little bit. Does this model have that porblem or only my? Thank you for answer and have nice day
I've just taken a look at mine and there is some side to side movement in it, a few millimetres, but I can't honestly tell you if it has always been like this or gone like that over time.
In comparison to the brake or clutch pedal, it is clearly more movement, but the accelerator pedal is a longer pedal, so that might also be why.
Hope this helps.
Well presented video. Quality channel
Thank you so much. I am glad you enjoyed the video :)
I use these pedals they are great.. there is a bolt in the middle bottom for the break tighten it.. your springs is perfect red silver black i advise you to put gain on 55
Yes, I saw the bolt, I might give it a bit of a twist as it does feel just a tad lose.
Gain to 55? Is that to prevent lockups? I could try that....
@@OlderGamersPerspective gain 55 will be easier to break and will not lockup
@@Gantz71 I will give it a try.
first of all great video I really want the pedals now. but do you think I can fit them on a challenge playseat?
I am not too sure. I had a rig similar to the Challenge playseat, but I only used it with the T3PA pedals, having upgraded to an GT Omega Art rig before I got the T-LCM. You could probably get away with it if you bought some of those strengtheners that I have seen advertised on Etsy and places like that.
Otherwise, I think you might eventually see a failure in where the footpedals attach to the chair.
Let me know how it turned out.
Thanks for the video. I've been looking to upgrade my T300 pedals and now I know what to buy. I have a GT Omega Art cockpit and have been concerned about the fittings for fanatec etc. A quick question, what Moza wheelbase do you use?
Hi,
I am glad the video can help you.
I am using a Moza R9 wheel. You can find a video of how I moved from a T300 to an R9 here:
th-cam.com/video/VAY-Ff1G6t4/w-d-xo.html
Bolts onto the Omega Art with no issues, and I've never had an issue with flex or anything like that. Needs some time to customise the profile in the Moza software to get it to your liking, but once done, you can pretty much forget the settings are always there.
Let me know how you get on.
Thanks for the info. Following a generous donation from HMRC! I went for the full Moza Ecosystem - R9, GS Wheel and SRP Pedals. Im sure it wont make me any faster but hopefully being passed by other cars mill be a nicer experience.
@@OlderGamersPerspective
It definitely is a better experience, being passed by faster cars while you are driving with cool gear. I should know, it happens to me all the time :) Enjoy your new gear. Let me know how you get on.
I have the T-LCM pedals and I play at a desk. You’re right that it is a pain in the butt to get them to not move. The other reason I would recommend a sim rig with these pedals is just ergonomics. Playing at a desk with the way my feet are positioned compared to my body in a computer chair just makes it painful after a while. The top of my foot gets so sore from the angle. It’s just not a natural position for your feet to have to press a sprinted brake pedal.
Yes, I was in that position myself a while back, when I sold one rig and ordered another, but there was a period of time between them where I had no rig and was playing with the wheel attached to a table clamp, the pedals under the desk, and me sitting on an office chair that rolled back whenever I pressed to hard on the brake.
One thing I noticed in the office chair was that my accelerator leg (right leg in my case) was aching after a prolonged session, and I had knee pains the next day, so watch out for your comfort, it is an early warning that you are making your body do stuff it shouldn't, Your Sore Foot is a red flag. Figure out what you can do to change that as soon as you can.
This is like David Attenborough narration. great video and love it.. please next time make.a video about us sim racer population explosion.😂😂😂
Hello, thank you for commenting on this video :) Glad you like the narration, it was fun to do. Cool idea about the sim racer explosion, I shall do some research on this :)
Use the t3pa.
Did the squash ball thing mod and set the brake gamma at 1.90.
Works great !
Excellent. These hard and fast mods can be cool.
Great video, amazing effort. I’m using Logitech G29 and looking for first set of load cells. Been looking at Moza SRP, fanatec elite v2 and the TLCM, I use a playseat challenge and reckon the TLCM could be the best option. Your video really helped.
Hi, I am glad you found the video helpful. A load cell pedal does add a bit more pressure onto a rig, so with the Playseat Challenge, you may need to consider a reinforcement kit (available from various places on the internet), that will strengthen up your foot pedal area. Having said that, your driving style might not need it, so it's worth attaching the pedals to the rig first to see if there is any flex while braking heavily.
Either way, let me know how it turns out.
I'm in the same boat and I'm curious what you ended up going with. I also use the Playseat Challenge + Thrustmaster T300 and want to upgrade to load cell pedals, but I'm unsure whether to go with T-LCM or SRP. T-LCM would be easier to fit but SRP is almost 100€ cheaper (which is weird considering that Moza seems like the more premium brand)
@@TzeiEm hi, I went with the tlcm and they have been really good. In terms of lap time wouldn’t say improved much but consistency definitely works better. Interesting with different pressure springs, which really is down to personal choice, I went with the red then 4 middle spacers then the black.
Thank you a lot! You saved me from buying this pedals as I do not have a rig!
A wheel stand would also do the job.
Informative and humorous. I mostly play GT7 and have been struggling to get used to pedals over the controller. I'd been considering the T-LCMs at some point. I currently have the T-3PA Pro.
Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed the video. To me the pedals, going to a Load cell, made more difference to my overall ability to drive than the wheel, although the wheel gives me much better feedback, particularly in oval tracks (for whatever reason), so as an upgrade, the load cell is a great one to make, but only if you have a rig to secure it to, otherwise you might struggle to get the best from it.
For sock preple worried about the meatal pedals they sell Thrustmaster T-LCM Rubber Grip that go over the pedals on amazon
Sounds interesting, do you have a link?
Hey your TP3A pedals , did they accelerator pedal rattle by any chance? I just received the T300 RS kit today brand new and without even setting it up took the pedals out as I had to measure the holes to see if it'll mount a challenge X seat and the accelerator pedal rattles.. Like a cheap toy.. I won't be able to deal with it moving forward, no chance, so I haven't set anything up and created a case with Thurstmaster... Just wondering if you experienced this before you upgraded. Looks like I'm going to have to fork out again for the T-LCM :( Oh and whilst on topic? Do any of the pedals on the T-LCM rattle ?
Been a while since I used the TP3A, but if they did rattle, I am pretty sure I would have remembered, so I am guessing that they never did. Sounds like you have a faulty model to me, so contact Thrustmaster before you use it too much.
The T-LCM, I would say, is very much the same, in that I can't remember any rattles, in fact I was just using it a moment ago and even though I have rumble motors attached to these pedals, I am not getting any rattling, far as I can tell.
Hope this helps.
Oh and if you want to join other like minded souls of sim racing, jump over to my discord group - discord.gg/Nw7rfNmy
@OlderGamersPerspective thanks dude ill jump on your discord for sure. I've also returned my T300 Rs will buy from somewhere else
good stuff
Thank you :)
I’d like to go for load cell pedals but I fear that at minimum strength it’s still to hard to push for 100% braking.
Is it possible to make this t-lcm quite soft with the softer springs and force to 0 in the software ?
You can put on the very light springs, and if they turn out to be too light, you can change them for a combination that's a bit tougher. They are very easy to change, and can be done in just a few minutes.
The software is also very customisable, but only if you have the pedals connected to your computer via USB, not into a Thrustmaster steering wheel via the PS2 connector.
Whether or not the combination will make it light enough for you, I can't say for sure, as I don't know exactly how light you want it to be. Either way, even at it's lightest, a Load cell pedal is going to be tougher to press than a standard pedal.
Hope this helps.
I had the TLCM for almost 2 years and i also have the hardest springs on. Never had an issue with using socks, even when heel and toe braking. So I wouldnt classify this as a universal problem.
They're a nice set of pedals though. Enjoy them :)
I am starting to look at sim racing socks with extra grip.... :)
One word of advice from a fellow T-LCM pedal owner: order replacement springs for the throttle and clutch... they will snap in half after 2 years of usage...
Thank you, I will look into that.
I just needed a replacement set belonging to the Thrustmaster Ferrari Integral Alacantara edition with what looks like your old peadals, they where £100 pound cheaper. I'm just hoping they have the same fitting, the connection as the set that came with mine are T3PA, which is on the box but confusing. Do you know? I may get the time loader peadals next time, Thanks or Slainte 👍
I'm afraid I have never used this combination, although Thrustmaster tend to use similar connections across their range, probably to save money, so I would say you have a chance, but order from somewhere that offers a good returns policy.
I currently use a T500 with included pedal set and a basher boards brake mod (those skateboard tyres kits). But having upgraded (?) to a wheel stand my pedals don't allow the stand to be folded and put away. Long story - I retired from sim racing 5 years ago and no longer have room in my man cave due to a nice leather 3 seat couch taking up the space. I'm having another go.
What's your opinion regarding the loadcell and arthritic knees? I can manage with the current brake in use, as long as I limit myself to under 3 hours at a time.
That's a difficult question to answer. I can say that I have some muscle issues in my leg, and when first using the load cell brake I could feel it the next day. Possibly you would need to use the lighter spring set, or adapt it using one of the mod sets, similar to the board mod you have been using. Either way, you need to order from somewhere that offers a good returns policy.
This is the sort of question you could ask over at the Older Gamer Discord channel. Lots of people there or a certain age are available to help, someone might have a more personal experience they can share with you.
Take a look here if you are interested - discord.gg/7U34BsqDXj
Great review. I have just ordered a set to upgrade from my T3pa pro pedals. I generally play ACC on Xbox. Does the load cell help with trail braking?
It will help you once you adapt to using a load cell pedal. This does require a learning curve and it will take a bit of time to get used to, but eventually, once you have everything set up, you should find braking to be overall better.
I need to switch from T-LCM mode to T3PA mode, for this i need to press left shifter paddle and the Mode button for 2 sec at the same time, the problem is i got a wheel with no shifter paddles, i have no idea what i could do. Heeellllppp please someone 😭🙏
when going in the corner and i hit the brakes , will these springs help when letting go of the breaks, i don't want the pedal to go back up quickly. I want a slow reset when i am letting go of the brakes, does that make sense?
It does make sense, and I get what you are trying to do, I think I am trying to do something similar here myself.
I would say that it sort of helps, but it's because the springs and the load cell functionality offer a greater level of refinement when it comes to simply pushing down the pedal with your foot. It just feels better, and give you better control of smaller inputs on the brake.
At least, it's better than the simple potentiometer system used by non-load cell pedals.
Be aware though, Load Cell pedals do have a learning curve, so you may find you don't take to them straight away, but if you keep at it, they will improve your braking.
I didnt read through all the comments to see if its been answered or not, but you can invert T3PA pedals so they are hung like they are in a real car, Im wondering if both clutch and throttle having halls sensors are for that reason. I literally just got a set of these a couple hrs ago for xmas and looking for setup videos, sooo, Im assuming these can be inverted as well but was looking for verification, this might be it
I have not had any experience in inverting pedals, but I did find this for you:
th-cam.com/video/p00s83CHDzU/w-d-xo.html
Which is a very cheap way of doing it, but seems to suggest that, technically, it is possible.
Good luck, and let me know how it turned out.
Thx, I had my T3PA pedals inverted already, thats why I was hoping I could with these, apparently thats harder than I thought@@OlderGamersPerspective
About to pull the trigger on these, they are on special where I live for another week - thank you for your review! It’s a low enough price for me to justify upgrading my pedals :)
As a fellow older gamer, I’d like to know - after having these pedals for a while now, how are your knees going? Are these pedals too tough for old gamers knees?
I had some knee pain a few days ago, but I think that might have been the activities I was doing before racing (fitness studio, gardening, life), but I have been advised to move the brake pedal over (the bit you put your foot on can be adjusted laterally) to stop my knee from twisting while doing left foot braking.
Otherwise, you can reduce the pressure of the brake pedal, both by using lighter springs, and also adjust a bolt underneath the brakepedal which adjust the tension of the pedal.
Hope this helps.
U can set it so that for eg. A 50% press translate to a fully pressed brake.
I think I use it on 74 off the top of my head
@@thefourfourfour9512 I have got mine set to about 70, so maybe I should back it off to 50%. I'll give it a try, Thank you for the advice.
Is there a software option for combined axis ?
I will be honest and say I don't know the answer to this question. But there are a number of clever and knowledge people on my Discord server discord.gg/QNFtHutX
so if you do the discord thing, pop over there and ask this question.
I made exactly the same transitioning as you the day before yesterday. I have played only five hours ACC on PS5 with the new pedals and the feel is superior for sure over the T3PA. I don't see my lap times getting better neither being more consistent, i think it's too early to have a certain opinion. I use the same setup as you regarding the springs and the brake force set to 75.
Because i bought a used set of T-LCM pedals i do not have all the washers included but only one. I would like to ask you if you tried putting the washers in the pre load spring and what is your experience with that.
Take a sub from me, your channel is great. You deserve more!
Thank you for the feedback and also the sub :) I did not try the washers, at least not yet, as I felt the precompress worked better for me with zero washers in there. But far as I can see, they are fairly common washers, so if you take the one you have to a hardware story, you should be able to find a matching set.
When I first got these pedals, I remember my lap times going the wrong way, but then I realised I was still driving like I had the T3PA under my feet, and that did take a bit of unlearning before I could get it right. So, I would say, you are right, it is too early yet to judge. Keep with it, and if you are anything like me, remember you don't have to hammer that brake any more, you can tickle it a little more.
Some one else said the force can also be set to 50 and it is better, but so far I haven't tried that as I don't want to upset my times, but I think the main reason for that was some knee pain I was getting due to the extra pressure needed to use a LC pedal.
Ive just brought the T-CLM pedals gone from the T3PA but the throttle is on the left? On the T-CLM pedals can i change it to the right?
Do you mean it is physically someone has changed the pedal to the right or in the configuration it's on the right? If it's just physically, then I think you can change them back without too much fuss, some people change the clutch pedal and spring to be the throttle because they say it feels better.
If you bought this unit new, then you should complain. If it's second-hand, then I would try it first, as it is, and if you like it, leave it, otherwise, change it over.
Makes sure you use the correct tools to take it apart and look out for any washers or springs that might escape while doing so.
@@OlderGamersPerspective I've brought it brand new out the box the Accelerator is on the left i need it on the right im so confused by this because I brought the T3PA from the same place and the Accelerator is on the right on them
@@AaronMartin7193 you should contact the people that sent it to you. To me this clearly is incorrect and either been altered by someone who had it before you and returned it, or it was assembled wrong at the factory. Either way, it probably should be returned.
@@OlderGamersPerspective Thabk you
what kind of mic do you use when recording? what makes it so clear and smooth?
I am using an old M-Audio Producer USB mic that I bought a number of years ago. Been thinking of upgrading it to be honest. But at the moment, it sits on my desk, on a short stand, right in front of me, with a pop blocker between me and the mic. I have found that putting the text on my second monitor (which is to my right) and looking in that direction also helps with reducing the pops when talking. I am fairly close to the mic, which I am not sure is a good thing, and I would prefer to get a mic arm/boom thingy, but my desk is very deep and there is no way to use the side of the desk due to a drawer unit being there.
In all, it's not ideal, but it's what I had in my possession and so I just went with it. I am glad you find it smooth and clear. I don't add any filters to the audio and record directly into Camtasia using the Narration feature, which I find easier.
On scripted videos, I put down the audio first and then cut out as many of the umms and ahhs as I can, and any pauses that are too long. On 'live' videos I narrate off-the-cuff and so the video goes in first and audio second, although I do sometimes cut out stuff to keep it punchy.
I have yet to do a live stream, the nearest I got to this was the Moza 9 review video where I narrated while driving and then put that together later. This had two downsides, firstly my driving sucked while I tried to multi task, and secondly, I used replay to put the video with the audio and so people assumed I was driving in third person, where as I was in reality using cockpit view. When I recorded this audio, while driving, I used a Zoom H1 with a Lav mic and synced everything up in post.
I hope this information helps you.
@@OlderGamersPerspective Really appreciate the info, keep it up, cuz the Audie is so nice that no one want to leave
From my experience it is just a different way of doing the same thing, I went from a G27 to Fanatec CSR to a G29, it is all about adapting to what you have, but with a load cell you definitely need a cockpit of sorts. I actually like a lot the stock "two-stage" braking + the app sensitivity adjustment of the Logitech G29, just got a TG-T recently and I am very disappointed about the T3PA compared to the G29... I really hate how Thrustmaster likes to bundle good stuff with bad stuff.
Yes, I can remember that, going from one set of pedals to the next, and just finding a way to adjust technique to suit the equipment you had. I also felt the same way about the pedals that came with the T300, they really were not a match for the wheel, which was pretty good for a non-DD wheel.
The big question about Thrustmaster, and indeed Logitech, is where are they now?
There was a time they ruled the wheel market, now, you don't even see them at trade shows.
@@OlderGamersPerspective I have been out of the loop about the best beginner wheel in recent years but what I always liked about the Logitech G27 / G29 is that they give everything in one set (3 pedals/shifter) and in a good accessible price point.
They are very good value, and years back, I started on something similar that I borrowed from a friend, but the lure of the Direct Drive wheel and a better brake pedal proved to strong :) What can I say? I am weak :)
Question is can i just direct plug into my base as i dont have a computer to calibrate. Im on xseries x thanku.
I don't have any experience with Direct Drive wheels and consoles as I use the PC exclusively. I would ask this question on Reddit, where you will get a better answer. Let me know how you get on.
As far as I have read elsewhere the calibration set up on the PC doesn't carry forward to the console. I did set mine up on PC but I don't think it was necessary. On GT7 just press your pedals to where you want 100% to be and they are now calibrated on GT7. Not sure about other racing games.
Yes you can plug into your base and use, but for best results your going to need to use the software on a PC to calibrate properly. Once calibrated on a PC, unplug and connect to the base, and the settings will be saved and carried over to play on the console.
I use an apex purple mod with a red spring and slider set to 97%, as the springs alone are very easy to overcome, and don’t supply just as good or as accurate a feeling underfoot as an elastomer modification.
Thanks for mentioning which rig you own - I'm currently looking at getting a GT Omega Art rig
Hi, glad you found the video helpful. I've had the ART rig now for a few months, with the XL seat, and I find it to be one of the best platforms I have used for sim racing. Very comfortable and able to cope with the demands of a load cell pedal and a direct drive wheel. I did a full review over at th-cam.com/video/QHyC_SPhPKQ/w-d-xo.html but at this point I was using the T300 and not the Moza R9. But the rig coped with the Direct drive with no issues and, as far as I can tell, no flex.
6:31 Crikey hope hes alright haha
Yeah that was a hilarious crash moment. The two cars crashing each other out, about 40 meters short of the finishing line. Still one of my favourite crash replays that actually features me :)
Now the next move is to grab a Cammus C5, 250$ for direct drive and its better than the Fanatec 8Nm somehow.
It's an interesting development, the C5, and I am hoping to try one at the Sim racing expo in October.
Sim socks not shoes, In my view and I can play 4/6 hours fine. But good video thank you
Sim socks had me reaching for google... That do look cool, but do you use a load cell pedal?
@@OlderGamersPerspective yes and I have simsok. The grips was a little strange under foot at first but with a couple of uses you don’t notice it. You don’t get the numb foot and with the load cell set to full 100% with max springs and no preload by using the washers it’s fine
@@jaimecarlow7368 okay, that sounds interesting. I shall look into them and see if I can do a video on them. Any you recommend?
@@OlderGamersPerspective personally I’ve only tried the simsok one so far. I’m on my first pair that are around 7 months old. They are made of a lovely material and are nice snug fit. The only issue I would say I can see happening some cases is the grips may ware off for a heel toe driver. But that’s for someone else as use sequential. But I will definitely be looking at some others to compare after these feel like it’s time to replace. As it’s my first set. I use to just double up on normal socks
@@jaimecarlow7368 so you slip them over your socks to race?
ahh , Rip Will
whatttt? I don't get this one.
@@OlderGamersPerspective Will Marsh
@@robertcarr4172 Sorry mate, I don't know him.
@@OlderGamersPerspective Rip will 😔
0:43 ...
He was a youtuber passionate about simracing like you.
Unfortunately there was no wake up call for him one morning 😔
His channel is still present on youtube.
@@THESHADOW97139 Ah I see. I picked those various clips pretty much at random. I had not realised he passed away. I'll leave that clip there as a tribute to him and I will check out his videos. Thank you for letting me know.
More immersive but they made me slower, by a lot. (Assetto Corsa with 250 hours)
How long have you been using them for? Took me some time to acclimatise to them.
@@OlderGamersPerspective
Not long, in total 4 hours but revisiting all the circuits and cars to get a feel for them. And feel like installing the old pedals again. I left foot brake with bare feet and got quite a finesse feel going with the old pedals (T300RS) VR + Playseat challenge. I've tried a wide variety of cars and had to go back to slower ones to start the learning curve over, as I was a full 10 seconds slower in the vintage Ferrari F1 cars. The calibration tool doesn't work in windows 11. The pedals are certainly more immersive tough, as they had me instantly desiring the shifter, where as before I wasn't bothered. I use paddles with throttle blip. The cars now snap a lot or drift when I've finished braking. Looks like I'll need to wait for time off work for some serious testing.
@@richy69ify The calibration tool works on my windows 11, it's the TM sim Pedals Calibration tool - if you don't have the correct one yet, you can find it here = support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-lcm-pedals-en/
This will only work if your pedals are plugged into your computer via the USB lead, it won't function if you have it lopped into the steering wheel with the PS2 type connector (whatever its called, I forget). But I can tell you it works fine for me, so take another look and see what you can do with it.
Swapping out the springs can also help, trying different combinations until you have one that works well with your style of driving.
Then stick with the one car, your favourite, until you have an angle on how these pedals work. When I put them on, I was at first slower, but after a while, I got the hang of it, but I don't think I used the older pedals for as long as you have, so maybe my transition period was bound to be shorter due to me having less experience.
Keep on plugging away at them, I think they are great pedals and I still use mine today (just finished a race just now - although I came a disappointing 5th, fairly sure the pedals were not to blame :) )
You can also jump over the older gamer discord channel - discord.gg/pHJpvNff and post your issues in the Sim race help channel.
Lots of great people here with lots of experience, and all willing to help out fellow sim racers.
@@OlderGamersPerspective
Thanks for your help. The calibrator comes up and responds but it's always garbled across the screen. I've since discovered I had left stability control on 25% on my steam launcher, but I had previously been using content manager last year which is set to pro mode. It's much better without. I've now fitted the white spring for my bare feet and going back to school by braking earlier. Looking at my old ghost cars I was very late braking. It's possible I'd managed get too used to the flaws in the old pedals, so need to change my style a bit. I'm sure I'll get there. As I mentioned before these pedals are nice a jump up in immersion.
Everything thrustmaster is junk
Not a statement I can agree with, but I am wondering why they have bailed out of the Sim Racing world, with no new products from them for some time.
sadly enough tho... the t-lcm pedals are the worse lc pedals you can get.
I mean, that is a subjective comment. I don't have enough experience to say one way or another, but they are much better than what I had.
@@OlderGamersPerspective i have had several different ones. the plastic housing is just open to flex a lot, seen a few clips were they simply brake too.
for me the quality from the fanatec v3's are a starting point, from there it goes up quickly and currently using the pricy heusinkveld sprints myself.
sure they are slightly better then your old pedal set but as loadcell pedals they really aren't actually good.
@@D0G_CN I would say from my perspective the T-LCM offers a much better experience, way more than slightly better. But that is my subjective experience. They are simply much better.
The Fanatec V3's certainly look cool, but they are twice the price of the T-LCM, and not everyone has that sort of money.
@@OlderGamersPerspective ok, ill give you that. sure they are a lot better then pot - based pedals because you got said loadcell. and offcourse not everybody has v3's money and surely not have heusinkveld pedals money. you do the best with the money you got, but even the latest fanatec lc pedals (witch are way cheaper then the t-lcm pedals) are better.
not saying you should have or could have mind you, just pointing something out here.
offcourse this is just my opinion and how important is that in a pool of 7 billion opinions?
im not trying to make you regret it either, play on brother
@@D0G_CN and you :)
Could barely hear this.
Fair comment, I have updated my microphone recording since the earlier days of making youtube videos and enhanced the audio quality.
do these pedals squeak at all the t3pas i have sound like a dying animal every turn
I had a careful listen last night, and there was a tiny bit of noise from the springs on the brake, but not loud enough to be heard over the game, and certainly drowned out by the noise of my gear changing paddles on my Moza R9 (very loud). So I would say, you should be okay.