Transitioning from a Thrustmaster T300 to a Moza R9
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มิ.ย. 2024
- An Older Gamer looks at transitioning from a Thrustmaster T300 to a Moza R9.
00:00 Intro
00:37 T300 Overview
01:14 Upgrading to T-LCM
01:38 Reasons I chose an R9
02:15 Test Conditions for both wheels
02:55 T300 - AI Test Race
08:36 T300 Test Conclusions
09:00 R9 - AI Test Race
17:39 R9 Test Conclusions
18:29 Personal Pit house setting
19:15 Comparing T300 with R9
21:00 Do I regret buying an R9?
Correction: 2:06 3.9Nm!!!
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Links
First iRacing win - • First Win in iRacing
iRacing - www.iracing.com/
GT Omega Euro Site - gtomega.eu/
Moza Racing - mozaracing.com/wheel-base-r9
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An Older Gamers Published Books - paulekert.com/
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I'm an older guy with a T300 who's planning to move to a Moza R9 so this video is exactly what I needed, exactly how I needed it. Subbed with thanks 👍
Glad to be of help. Keep me posted on what you eventually buy, which wheel and base and so on, and how you get on with setting it up. It's not a five minute job, as I mentioned, but if you persevere , it's worth the effort. I've subscribed to your channel, and advise anyone reading this to take a look as there is a wealth of videos over at GrandpaGoesGaming!
So many videos! I am impressed!
I went from the Trhustmaster TX (T300) to the Moza R9 and the difference is crazy. Absolutely no regrets. I've used me sim more than I ever have.
@@driftingbrandonc.6480 great, thank you for the info. Nice to hear that so many folks are having such a positive move to the Moza 👍
@@OlderGamersPerspective I ended up getting the R9 with CRP pedals. I explained to my wife that it's your fault for being a bad influence on me 😇
@@GrandpaGoesGaming Excellent. And I don't mind taking one for the team :)
"In this video I transition-"
youre never too old, old gamer ☺️
Yeah took me some time to move away from a belt driven wheel to a direct drive, but it was very much worth it. Sometimes it's so real, like when I crash or some one bumps into me, it's almost hyper realistic.
@@OlderGamersPerspectiveI don’t think you got the joke lmao
I'm a T300RS user for over 2 years. There was an offline event recently where I used a Moza R5 driving Formula E Gen 3. For many of the races I didn't find the right feel for the car. Too strong, too rough on the kerbs, too flimsy, etc. but at my very last race, what you said is definitely correct: With the right setting for the specific car it's like magic. I suddenly feel like I'm in complete control of the car and I could drive more confidently than I ever could. The key advantage for DD is the ability to fine-tune. I finally understand what makes DD so sought after.
But again, T300RS for what it is already got me so far, DD is only relevant if your money allows it and you really want to seek perfection.
Yeah exactly, the T300 is a great wheel, but if you have the money, and the time to set it up correctly, a DD wheel will feel so much better. What settings did you settle on in Pithouse?
@@OlderGamersPerspective Sorr,y, but I don't remember, since this was a setup by another driver (basically we swap drivers for each grid and we have 10 minutes of setup each time). But I'm mostly pointing out that R5 already wrestled with my weak arms. This is why I'm on the fence about R9; I don't feel like I need that much strength when I'm already wrestling with R5. Do you ever try a larger wheel rim? I wonder what effect it has on driving?
@@X1erra I've read that the larger wheel rim will dilute the FFB, so I didn't go there as I am happy enough with the size of the wheel I have.
Might be tempted to get the GT kit though.
@@OlderGamersPerspective Me too. I pre-ordered the Moza KS wheel which will come in 2 months. I have to carefully choose now. You can just buy the rim and you're set for life xD
Excellent. One of the best and most informative reviews! I too am in your (previous) shoes running a t300 rs belt. Enjoyed your calm assured commentary whilst catching apexs! I'm looking forward to the upgrade !
Probably more accurate to describe it as 'while attempting to catch an apex...' :) I am glad you found the review helpful. Which way are you going to jump? Fanatec or Moza, or something else?
You can widen out your turns so you can maintain more speed through the turns.
Yep, I am working on that. I have another video showing me racing the Roval in the Rookies. Take a look and let me know if you think I am improving.
great vid, I'm also an older guy with the T300 and TCLM pedals and saving for the Thrustmaster T818 direct drive. Enjoy your Moza I'm sure its awesome.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video. I did look at the T818, but it was a bit beyond my budget. But it does look like an awesome DD wheel, and one that I would have like to have bought, being a fan of Thrustmaster products.
This older (57) gamer is using a Thrustmaster TX leather edition (including the T3PA pedals) since 2016. In 2020 I bought a rig and Heusinkveld Sprint (3) pedals. The TX wheel will be upgraded to a Simucube Sport and a Cube Controls F-Core wheel this July. Thanks to your video I'm very much looking forward to it!
Us older gamers need to start a league :) I had the T3PA pedals, but I really didn't get on with them, try out the Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals if you get a chance, they really are very good. But nice to hear you've been getting some good use out of the TX. 2016! That's so cool, but you will really enjoy that SImcube wheel :)
Great review. I have the TSXW wheel base and I'm thinking of moving to the R9, this has helped a lot!
Cool, I am glad you found this video helpful. Many months on I still find this wheel an epic addition to my sim rig, but you do need something to mount it on. A wheel stand or a rig. This will get the best from it.
Wonderful content. Well played OGP. You got my sub.
Thank you for the feedback. I am glad you found the video helpful :)
Can't wait to get myself a r9. Was in g29 and now t300rs gt. I'm focusing on sim drifting ❤
I've played a bit with drifting, and with the right settings, it is fun. Fortunately the Pit house software has a pre-set to get you started on what drifting settings should look like.
if you go into options and also set your clutch pedal as your second clutch you can use clutch as you please/need and can still paddle shift normally. great for standing starts.
creates a kind of "clutch override"
I've never heard of this, but I am going to try it :)
And I did try this, and boy does it work. I did this epic start in one race where I actually managed a 180 skid turn from start off the grid. I mean, not a great start, but made me laugh. Got it a bit more under control now and yes, if I time it right, it can give me a better launch.
Just switched from G25 to Simagic Alpha. Wish I'd gone DD so much sooner. It was like going from an old CRT tv to a modern HD LED. You're watching the same movie but wow, is it a different experience. Pretty much all points in this video are spot on in my experience.
Thank you :) The Simagic stuff looks epic, hoping to try some out at the next sim racing expo.
Good conclusions. I upgraded from a set of G29 pedals to some Fanatec CSL load cell pedals and immediately improved my lap times. I have a similar wheelstand to yours and - as you say - its a must for decent pedals. I'll eventually upgrade my G29 wheel to a low end DD at some point but for now there's no rush. I also love the MX5, having had 3 of them in the past and being an older (52) gamer.
Thank you for the feedback. I am working on a more detailed review of the T-LCM to go with this video, should be ready next week. But yeah, you do really need a rig for it, otherwise you probably will be fighting for a good experience. MX5's are cool cars though, I loved mine with a passion.
Younger gentleman with a T300-sorry to break the trend... 😂
Appreciate the insight & grats on your first W in Global Cup MX-5's!
As it says in the channel description, age is just a number and all are very welcome here :)
Awesome review I've got same thrustmaster wheel and pedals. Was going to get the r5 bundle but don't need pedals or a shifter. So just ordered the r9 bundle that comes with a wheel. I subbed
Thank you John, I appreciate the support and the feedback. I didn't have the option of the bundle when I was buying, had to get the wheel separately. But I already had the pedals setup, so that was okay, and I've never been into shifters. Probably because I drive an automatic in real life.
Enjoy your R9 and let me know how you get on with it.
Great video! It surprised me how incredibly relatable your upgrade situation is to mine! I've been using my t300 for a longer time, almost 2.5 years now. I also upgraded to the T-LCM pedals but I did that because my original pedals died rather quick. I also happen to use the exact same cockpit and chair! I race assetto corsa on servers with older cars so sometimes no ABS and definitely no TC. I found the information about grip coming through the wheel to be quite important. This video kind of confirmed my thoughts about the upgrade. I will get more information through the wheel, though it might be a pricy upgrade. I've been using my t300 very actively from the moment I got it and it's showing signs of that. If it doesn't die first I'll be upgrading the entire cockpit setup. I'd like to have inverted pedals but there don't seem to be many setups supporting that yet. Anyhow great video! Sorry for the rant :p
Hi there, thank you for the feedback, and good to meet a fellow GT Omega ART owner. I do love that rig and wonder if I will ever need anything else.
The upgrade for me, from T300 to R9, was smooth and painless. The load cell pedals took longer to adapt to than the direct drive wheel, but when I go back to a non-direct drive wheel I am like... What the hell is going on...?
One word of caution, AC doesn't seem to have any presets for the Moza R9, so you will have to set that up manually, and that can be a bit fiddly. Not mind blowingly difficult, but just a bit of a time sucker. AMS2, and of course, PC2, also have this problem. You can get it done, but it does take more than a moment to sort out.
Unlike iRacing, which has a fast and easy set up, and ACC, which has a Moza 9 preset that setup my wheel without even asking me, which is nice.
Inverted pedals are a niche within a niche. Even a the expo, I didn't see much of it. But, I will have to try it at some point in life, just to see how it matches up to my real life drive.
No worries about the rant. I have been doing something like that over the last few days chasing a delivery that has failed to be delivered. It's all good :)
My 2cents:
I upgraded from a T150 to CSL 8nm + V3 pedals. After initial trial 50 hrs - The immediately noticeable biggest upgrade is pedals.
Although I would still recommend a T150 for newcomers, which I bought for £40, but can be had for £100 recently on sale from Game. I would not recommend the T150 at normal rrp.
I am now getting more used to the CSL DD, which is an upgrade but less noticeable than V3 pedals upgrade initially. Yes you need to try and experiment with different wheel settings.
I found the T150 vague, and we all know that the budget pedals are pretty useless, that come bundled with it. Having said that, this is a great value bundle ( when on Sale) to get you into Sim racing.
My latest purchase was 10x more expensive than my old T150 ( that can be had on Sale) or 20x compared to the deal I got on the T150) when you look at the numbers, I would say ignore the ”is it worth it argument”, and just upgrade, once you are sure you want to get into sim racing.
It is not “worth it” in monetary terms, however it is “worth it” in quality gaming experience…..to upgrade
I agree, none of this stuff is really worth it in monetary terms, I guess you need to think what it will mean to your day to day sim racing experience and if that will make you happy. I know that my driving experience is less, fraught, I think is the right word, using a DD wheel base, but for sure, the most difference came from the Load Cell pedals, which in turn work really well with the GT Omega rig.
it really is a case of everything being connected and being able to find the best combination that suits the individual.
I've stopped adding up what I am paying for this 'hobby' and I dread to think what I will come home with from the Sim Racing Expo in Dortmund in October. At least I have time to save up. Unless I buy something else in between... Oh look, there's a Quest 3 announcement.
Just purchased an old T300 with the original pedals for my old man. He's loving it so far but think we can all agree that the pedals are shite 😅
When it comes to your driving, looks good mate, one thing I can see straight off is that you are not using all of the available track on corner entry. Keep it up and great video!
I am right now, recording a review of the T-LCM pedals, which replaced my RS GT set that came with the T300, and yes, they were not much good, even with the conical mod.
And you are not the first to mention that I am not using the most of the track, it is something I am working on, and in Practice or Qualifying, I usually manage it, but once I get in a race, it becomes suddenly hard to manage. But I am working on it :)
@@OlderGamersPerspective hi, have you tested, or read, enough to recomend mods for g29 pedals? i can't have rig at the moment, so i have to keep g29. i saw that there are rubbers but also custom springs. also they make braking harder, apparently. but i think my chair with wheels with brakes can stand them. i can push really hard and the wheels doesn't move. maybe i could even use a load cell pedal with a very soft configuration, i don't know.
i have thought on upgrading to moza r5, or csl DD, which allows to increase newtons in the future, with a table clamp. because cockpit for now is impossible, most important the space. i won't have the best experience, but will improve a g29. pedals are the big problem. but sometimes when i see someone saying how good is the ffb in some game, i can't feel it. for example in one game, if you make a plane in the tyre, g29 feels like a drill, because ffb in the center is really bad. even it seems like the g29 could be getting damage.
i think best decision is to keep g29, and if it dies, then think about a DD with table clamp, if cockpit is not possible. also, do u know about the g29 pedal mods? talked at first
19:05 The T-GT II is by far the best belt driven wheel out there. It's not even close.
Yeah, but more expensive than the T-300.
I have a g25 of which I've had for 15years ,after watching this I think am gonna go for the R5,great video by the way I've watched the other 3 you have made, hopefully more to come?
Hi David, thank you for the feedback. Be great to hear how you get on with the R5. I have more to come, working on a review of the T-LCM, that I mentioned briefly in this video, plus some other stuff that's more to do with Racing itself. But yeah, more stuff to come :)
@@OlderGamersPerspective I've had my tlcm pedals for 2 years,great product for the price,just need to change out the springs as there not the best for an authentic brake pedal feel
Ha! I'd love to know how many people are still rocking a G25 in 2023. My G25 was the best $300 I've ever spent but it finally got retired a couple weeks ago when my Simagic Alpha arrived. Hats off to Logitech for building such a tank.
Ex T300 owner who is waiting for first dd wheel. To arrive i went with Asetek La Prima 12nm upgradable to 18nm in the future, got Fanatec V2 pedals for 200 in black friday deal. Will be making a solid wooden rig im glad youre enjoying your Moza 😊
That looks like an awesome kit. Let me know how it turns out.
I also had a wooden rig, a few years back, that I made myself. It did the job, but it was prone to creaking a bit when the action got frantic enough. But otherwise, it served me well.
@@OlderGamersPerspective Yeah, well after 1 week of processing asetek cancelled my order, no reason given. Plus been hearing of new issues with QR on reddit. So screw them, I will buy the Fanatec Clubsport DD
FFS - what are these companies doing with themselves? But good on you for voting with your wallet. The Fanatec Clubsport DD is also a really cool wheel. You will enjoy it, just take some time to tweak it to your own settings, which means looking at the youtube stuff, but then adapting their settings to your own needs. There is no 'one size fits all' when it comes to DD wheels, or really any aspect of sim racing.
Go back many years when DD wheels where very very expensive but OSW was a thing. Open Sim Wheel project turned an industrial servo motor into a forcefeedback wheel for a very reasonable price. To consider I started with 180 degree non forcewheel connected with a gameport, than a non working 99% microsoft wheel on gameport. The logitech G25 served me well for many years, the fanatec GT2 sucked mayor ball and Thustmaster TX was great again but than I went DD. And yeah I'm good for life with the OSW small MiGe, it's not as nice as current options out there but I really like how it feels with real car wheels. The main advantage is the much faster turning speed and all the strength you ever need. Set any wheel rotation degrees is also very nice. It's really nice upgrade.
Sounds awesome :) As long as it keeps you racing, it's all good :) But thank you for an insight into the history of OSW, I will read up some more on it. I remember vaguely hearing about it, but never got into it for one reason or another.
I make the same change from t300 with TLCM to R9 V2 and CS V2. Its great!
Sounds awesome :) You will enjoy this setup :)
I totaly agree with pedals 1st, wheel 2nd. I upgraded from a G27 with loadcell mod to T-LMC pedals (kept my wheel) and that was the biggest upgrade. Next upgrade was to an R9 and GS wheel.
I love it and after a short break from iRacing, coming back feels more natural over my old G27.
Yes, pedals are a priority, but if you go to a Load Cell set, then you do need something to attach them to, like a wheel stand or a full rig, otherwise you are not going to get the best from them. But yeah, decent pedals make a huge difference.
@@OlderGamersPerspective I've had a cockpit set up for so long that I forgot that's something you need to have as well.
@@frozendragon6873 Yeah, it's easy isn't it, to forget where we started. I only really started to remember when I put together these videos and found photos of the various (but by all means not all) of my sim racing setups. I never did the ironing board one, but I can remember giving it some thought....
I started with a T150 and a wheel stand.
Then I got the T300 /Open wheel add on and T LCM pedals.
Finally I uograded to a Trak Racer T80 cockpit with GT /Formula adjustable pedal positions.
Fanatec V3 Inverted pedals
CSL DD Pro witb the GrandTursimo wheel.
This was light years better than the T LCM pedals.
A solid cockpit will allow you to feel so much of the DD feedback that any flexing in your cockpit will rob you of feel.
I have the GT Omega ART rig and it copes nicely with the Moza R9 and the T LCM pedals, but I am not sure the rig would cope with anything more aggressive. For my own personal needs, at this time, it suits me, but I can see me looking at bigger and better stuff in the future.
I decided on the Moza R5 bundle...R5 base, A ok wheel and twin basic all metal pedal set with hall sensors no less. On sale now for $469 USD. Granted it has the very lower end pedals however they do have hall sensors and a upgrade for the brake $29 USD and a extra clutch pedal $49USD that I will order. My main title is MSFS and I just want to do some auto racing or simming like truck simulator so I don't need a very pricey unit. But after watching this video I considered the R9 however Moza does not offer any bundles so the R5 it will be.
Yes, if you haven't got pedals then the choices become complicated by finding bundle deals. It is a shame that there is no R9 bundle as the pedals do look decent, with the upgraded brake. I am not sure I would bother with the clutch as I never use it, but I guess it looks good for the aesthetics. Be sure to let me know what you think of the R5. I'm also an MSFS fan, using a X52 Pro and the flight add on for the GT Omega sim rig.
Im on an 8nm DD Pro and a set of V3 pedals but i loved the TLCM's while i was using a T300
Yep, those pedals make a real difference to the T300. A pity they don't offer a bundle that combines them in a 'Pro' set. Would be a great seller for people unable to stretch to a DD at the moment.
I like the TCLMs on road with heavy braking , but on ovals with slight braking inputs as needed throughout the corner entry, it seems like i had a slight deadzone that really threw me off.
There's a pretty decent load cell upgrade available for the Thrustmaster pedals, totally transforms them. I too am an older gamer and just upgraded from Thrustmaster's TS-PC to a Fanatec CSL DD 8Nm. Direct drive is better, more detailed ffb, faster response but it doesn't make as much difference to lap times as having a decent brake pedal. There are also upgrade kits for Thrustmaster's clutch & gas pedals, with a load cell and the other upgrades i prefer the T3PA to the newer TLCM pedals & they come in a little cheaper. You can also upgrade the potentiometers on the gas & clutch pedals, i didn't really notice any difference after but they'll probably last longer.
Yes I agree, a DD wheel is a very cool experience, but the Load cell pedal really seems to be the thing that makes a difference to lap time... Once you have the hang of it.
I've seen a number of upgrades available for the TLCM, but so far I am sticking with the stock setup. This may change though as I am keen to experiment.
Great video, I love it. I am still using my G29 and it does work for me but I want to upgrade it in a future. I am asking myself if R5 would be enough or should I save more for R9 instead. Thanks and I subscribed!
I am glad you found the video helpful. I went with the R9 as most reviewers said it was a sweet spot, and I was seeing a lot of reviewers say the R5 wasn't enough for them. Whether or not that's true I don't know, but the price difference at the time lead me to purchase the R9 and I haven't regretted it. I also bought the ES wheel to keep the price down, and to be honest, it works just fine (although I needed to buy gloves as my hands sweated on this wheel like you wouldn't believe).
If you can, try them out at a shop (not easy in this day and age) to see if you can get an opinion on them.
There is a expo soon in Dortmund, Germany, if you can get to that, there will probably be lots of gear to try out.
And thank you for the subscription :)
Oh, wann ist der expo denn? Ich würde gerne vorbei kommen! @@OlderGamersPerspective
@@SLIDEIT.99 simracingexpo.de/en/ the details can be found using this link :)
Nice thank you G29 going to be changed for Moza R9, as an old gamer too we have and know how a cars steering should to some degree feel having driven for many years and i am sure some of us like myself have actually raced or done track days or some karting, the feel i get from my G29 is so unrewarding most of the time so i will upgrade soon this video has helped my decision thank you.
Cool, I am glad the video helped you. :)
ASMR in simracing TH-cam🥳🤯 Subscribed
Cool. Thank you :)
I’m not old but went from the exact same wheel to the R9 and it was a world of difference. It always felt like you wanted more out of a t300 I mean sure as a beginner it’s good enough but after a while you want something better quality and with better feedback. Once I got the R9 I stopped having those issues of wanting more, it’s just the right amount of strength to price ratio for me. It’s strong enough that I have to fight the feedback a little but not enough to get fatigued after only one or two races. I’ve had a moza setup for almost 2 years now and it’s been incredible absolutely zero issues, can’t recommend them enough if your only on pc.
Yes, you nailed it with this description. I think I always had a problem with the T300 because I have driven in real life for so long, and it just didn't feel right. The R9 isn't exactly the same, but it is a lot closer.
I've owned and used this DD wheel for nearly a year now, and everytime I get on a bit of track that's got a rough surface, and the wheel relays the details to me with such minute accuracy, it makes me smile. It really does.
Like you say, the only down side is the Moza is PC only, but I've never actually used a wheel with a console, so I don't really feel as though I am missing out.
Enjoy your setup, and hope to see you on track.
Changed to the R5 myself and the difference is huge, HOWEVER the bigger upgrade is def the pedals , i went from TLCM pedals to Clubsport V3s and the difference makes so much difference racing
That's a pretty cool upgrade. What are they giving you that the Tlcms didn't? Finer control on brakes?
Just graduated to a R12 and CRP pedals I'm ready to see how much better it is compared to my R5 moving to the R5 from a logitech G29 was a insane improvement I hope its a similar effect with the R12 I know for sure it was a huge improvement moving to the CRP pedals
Get back to me with your impressions on the R12, be interesting to hear what you think of it.
Great video. I have been playing racing games since the days of Test Drive on PC in 1987. (keyboard only)
Background:
I am in my late 40's and building my 3rd sim rig. I have been more into autocross and track days over my lifetime, but have many competing hobbies. Family, Golf, Boating, etc.
I try to get my F80 M3 out to the track or autocross once a year after about a 5 year break I am rusty. My last autocross I found that each run was much faster then previous, but not seeing the results I am used to. Some of that is not dedicated tires, but other is just out of practice.
That basically made me think. How can I best spend 2k this year. Tires or Simulator.
Thrustmaster
Thoughts:
Your video was very helpful. I love the idea of better gear and even setting it up, but reality is I don't have time for it. If the DD wheels need tinkering to get them better out of the box then the T300 I am probably better off with T300. Since I only spent $900 of my budget I might just go get tires too. (or build a PC that I can use for multiple things)
DD wheels do need a bit of love to set them up, but once done, you are pretty much good to go. I haven't really touched the software for my DD since I got it running about right. I should maybe go in and tweak it a bit, but I prefer to spend the time racing.
The difference from T300 to DD is not night and day, BUT, in my opinion, it is much better. You could live without it, the question is, would you want to :)
My advice would be, if you are on the fence, is to find a sim arcade where they offer a setup with a DD wheel, or go to one of the trade shows. The next one I know is in Dortmund in October, so the arcade might be a better option, although they might not be set up for realism, and more for the arcade experience.
Try before you buy, but if you try, you will probably buy.
@@OlderGamersPerspective Trying before buying would be best. I know my biggest challenge is possible jumping between PS5 and PC. It is a $600 for T300RS GT with t--LCM pedals vs $950 for Fanatec DD GT Pro with Load Cell pedal. Now if I went just PC games that would be $600. I don't know what games I would play on PC. I tried iRacing early and just don't have the time. Once weather warms up this thing likely will collect dust. (the reality is the Fanatec might have stronger demand and resale plus better experience so it should make it a no brainer)
You have a great advert voice. Have you ever done ad work for UK TV or radio?
Thank you, that's a great compliment. I do also sometimes voice tutorial videos, but they are buried deep on corporate sites. So far, no ad work :)
I have notebook for each game. Working through the settings to find the balance takes time. I chose Dirt Rally 2, Fiat 131, and a kiwi track. After a week it's getting good. Eye opening good.
I retired my first generation G-25 for an R-5. A first rate upgrade.
Sounds as though you are making better progress than me. What settings did you settle on for Dirt Rally 2?
G25 was a great wheel in its day!
@@OlderGamersPerspective After watching your video I decided to perform the Wheel Base and Recovery reset. Recommended for any new wheel. This put every setting back to default. When exploring the Basic Settings page my curser strayed over one of the "Preset Modes" buttons. A drop down menu appeared listing a series of setups associated with that preset. If you hover over GT you will see such items as "AS-Official" (Assetto Corsa) and several others. For DR2 I pointed to "Rally" and chose DR2- Official. I clicked on the selection and the settings were applied instantly. After booting the game I adjusted the steering to my liking and bingo, awesome driving. A really good starting point.
Thanks for the clues.
If you create a "Preset" you are asked to select a "Preset Mode" before naming and saving. The preset you saved will be available under the Preset mode you chose.
It's all very neat.
@@patrick247two Yep, they have really thought this through, which is nice to see. I have hovered the mouse over the GT pre-set button, but I don't see the AS-Official, only Official. What am I missing here?
@@OlderGamersPerspective I have an R-5 as you have the R-9, the included software may be different. Make sure your wheel is up to date firmware wise. Are there other Presets under the GT preset?
As for DR2 I firmly recommend the car set ups provided by a youtuber called Rally Technical. Each set up turns the car from a monster to a steerable monster. These are a great basic starting point for fine tuning. Well worth the time and effort.
How is the ART cockpit holding up with the R9 and the T-LCM pedals ? Thinking about picking one up considering it's still quite a bit cheaper than an aluminium extrusion rig
The ART is holding up really well, not complained at all at the extra torque the R9 is place on it, nor has it grumbled about the extra pressure from the T-LCM. It just seems to be very happy. I've not tested this setup long term yet, just a single season in iRacing, but it will be interesting to see what, if anything, the rig is suffering from in 6 months.
But yeah, I thought about the Aluminium ones, but the price was a bit steep for me.
Let me know what you get.
Great video! 1 little thing I do have to say is that the t300 is 4-4.5nm and not 2.9
Hi, thank you for the feedback, I am glad you enjoyed the video.
The question of how much the T300 can output and how much it SHOULD output has come up a number of times in these comments. If you track down, you can find some comments from people who are far more knowledgeable than me on this subject.
But the gist of it is; you are right, it can output more, but if the setting is this high, it can cause some issues for the unit, and so it tends to be run at 2.9. I am paraphrasing here, but that's the TLDR summary :)
aaahh okay good to know i did not know that thank you :)@@OlderGamersPerspective
Tip, witch you might know...
While under breaking reaching the entre point you tend to be half to a full car away from the outside line.
This compromises your exit every time... If you can adjust that bit alone you gain a lot of time.
Goodluck and have fun.
Thank you. I am attempting to get my driving line under control, I feel at the moment my braking is the issue to my laptimes. To hard and too early. I've made a couple more racing videos. If you check them out, let me know if you think I am improving.
Hi. How did you manage to make the Thrustmaster pedals work with the Moza DD?
The short answer is; I didn't.
The longer answer is the TLCM pedals also have a usb port, which I connect directly to my computer. This gives me access to a Thrustmaster app that allows me to fine tune the each of the pedal inputs. This has worked just fine for about a year now.
Just upgraded my T300-Loadcellpedals-Playseat-Rig with a R9 with CRP Pedals mounted to a alu rig with bass shakers. Damn, it feels sooo much better. Totally worth it.
Nice, sounds like a cool rig. I don't have the bass shakers.... yet... but they are on the list ;)
@@OlderGamersPerspective you won't regret it, it adds so much to the immersion - for a fair amout of money (I spent ~150€)
@@stefanbuchholz1712 It is very cool and I really don't regret buying it, although it was more expensive at 180 than yours, but still, I am very pleased with it.
That being said, I am Mega interested in what I can try out at the ADAC sim racing expo in October in Dortmund!!!
@@OlderGamersPerspective what shakers did you get? and how many? 🙂
@@stefanbuchholz1712 I've been so busy with videos and racing I haven't had a chance to get that sorted. But I will make a video when I do :)
yes, a big difference between the t300 and the moza r9. funny thing is tho, the full experience starts at 15 nm and up. that's where the ffb detail goes all in, and you don't need to use all of the nm's to get it either. a 25 nm base gives you about 40% more detail compared to a 9 nm base, even if you set the power for the base to 4 nm. the wider bandwith in nm's is what gives you the added detail, not the raw power.
and you were spot on about the pedals, a good set (like heusinkveld sprints and up) is more usefull to becoming consitand.
im 58, owning 3 racing rig's and 2 of them are DD setups.
Good video, clear and insightfull narated. good job sir
Thank you, I apricate the feedback. I'm very interested in the higher Nm bases, but at the moment, they are beyond my price range. There is a Sim Racing Expo coming up in Dortmund in October, sponsored by ADAC, and I am hoping to get to that, and seeing if I can actually get to try one of the large Nm setups. I am really intrigued as to how much difference they do make. I also want to try a motion rig, although I seriously doubt that getting thrown all over the place is going to better my lap times. I am bad enough just sitting still in my rig.
@@OlderGamersPerspective yeah, motion is next for my top rig, but that comes with a price tag at about 10k in euro's so it takes some time.
for me it isn't all about fast lap times but more about the immersion of it all.
getting faster follows with better gear soon enough.
you are right tho, a motion rig will make it a lot harder.
count on fatige acting up a lot quicker, like a lot lol. seriously...
aaah, can't beat realisme tho... right?
getting tired quicker, neck pain soon to follow, other muscle pains creeping in.
a motion rig will give you some perspective on how atlethic a race drive needs to be.
i held a rally license for 10 years so i know a thing or two about it lol.
but im sure you will experience this wild rabbit hole on your own in a hurry.
curious to see how you experience some things to come, so following the progress.
@@D0G_CN Fairly curious myself. The Sim Racing Rabbit Hole is a pretty deep and intense one. I do find, now without a motion rig, that a single race can be a fatiguing. Last night I was in a battle for fourth place, and not keen to give it up, and it was me in the lead lap after lap, and then I looked at the lap counter and realised we still had more than half the race to run! I am hoping that before my lap times get better, my stamina increases. The GT Omega rig with the XL chair helps, its very comfortable and keeps me in the correct driving position. I think before I go motion rig, I will look at adding some rumble shakers to the pedals, and perhaps some to the seat as well.
@@OlderGamersPerspective i would recommend some shaker to the seat but pedals not so much. (personal choice so...)
i love my omega prime with xl seat, best rig i have actually, good choice.
yeah a good race can make you tired quickly, i have a good condition and plenty of stamina but still...
🤔
@@D0G_CN I will look round for shakers. I was tempted with the HF8 from NLR, but I am not sure about sitting higher in my rig as I've just got the seat placement and height of wheel about right. Don't want to mess with that now I have it working as I like it.
If you could get a DD wheel or a LC pedal or go from a wheel stand to cockpit, which would you do? If you eventually plan to get all, would that that change?
It's a real chicken and egg situation. Without the cockpit, the wheel and in particular the LC pedal don't make as much sense, but to know if you want a cockpit, you really need a wheel and a pedal first. I would say that if you cannot afford a cockpit, get a wheel stand, then you will get the most out of your gear. In particular, the LC pedal is not a great experience if it's not bolted down to something solid. Same really, to a lesser degree, the wheel. A wheel stand is not a brilliant rig, but it's better than a desk clamp for the wheel and some carpet grippers for the pedal.
I built a wooden rig to see if I liked it, but I had an old chair and some scrap wood, and a place to create such a thing, which isn't what everyone has.
If you were to ask me hand on heart, I would say, wait until you have enough money to get the rig, the wheel, and the load cell pedal. Maybe don't get a Direct Drive wheel straight away though, just in case sim racing is not for you.
Does the MOZA yet support auto-rotation (where the game auto sets the steering lock realistically as you switch from car to car, as in iRacing, AMS 2, etc.)? The last time I looked at this impressive wheel, it ticked every box except that one compared to the Fanatec series.
I don't know. I haven't updated the moza app lately as I keep reading poor reports on the updates and what I have works fine.
I will have a look around and see what I can find out.
First of all, thank you for this very nice and informative video.
I just want to notice you say @2:05 a T300 has 2.9Nm, but all sources I could find say it's 3.9Nm.
I would have thought, this could have been a number mismatch but you say the R9 has 3x more torque, which let me conclude you got the wrong number for the T300?
Nevertheless, this doesn't negate anything else or any conclusion of yours.
Appreciate your work, thank you very much.
Hi, thank you for commenting. Yes, that was my mistake. I have tried to correct this by adding a correction in the description, but sadly it's not very obvious. I am glad you found the rest of the video helpful :)
I sent you again three months ago. Then, I upgraded from T3PA to T-LCM only for 70 euro and was totally worth it. Now that I own a PC I was in a dilemma between Moza R9 and CSL DD. Between those two I choose R9 over CSL DD due to quality reasons and because there are two official retailers in my country for Moza. Although now, the upgrade from T300 to R9 won't cost me 70e but 380e. Given this cost, do you believe it is worth it to make the transition? Will it be another league like the pedal upgrade?
Hi, thank you for getting back to me with your upgrade decisions.
Your question is a tough one. The Load Cell pedal upgrade for me made a huge difference to my driving style, and I would say a direct drive wheel also has a large effect, but possibly not as much. It feels more like a Quality of Life upgrade, rather than a massive push towards helping me drive better. I guess I am driving with more consistency because the feedback I get feels more natural, and I certainly would never go back to a non-direct drive wheel, but I can't honestly say that it was in another league.
It is worth getting, if you can comfortably afford it, but don't expect it to be as big a difference to your driving as a Load Cell pedal.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Interesting video, the only thing that I observed (felt immediately) was that your not testing this with either dash cam or track cam, these usually give a far more accurate turning response and would be (imo) a more accurate test of these wheels.
Do you mean cockpit view? I had thought a lot about which view to show, and watched some other reviews to see how they handled it, and I concluded that the rear chase camera was the best for seeing how the car handled with each wheel. But I acknowledge that this is a subjective point of view. In other videos I tend to stick more with the cockpit or trackside cameras, only really switching to rear chase if I need to show another view point.
Thank you for finding the time to give me feedback on my video.
@OlderGamersPerspective it's a great video mate, it was just an observation as I love this kind of content. I'm 50 yrs old and been driving sims since the old microprose F1GP. It is subjective and love your findings as I'm still on a hybrid belt/drive wheel atm. I looked at fanatec but trying to overcome the hefty price.
Subbed!
Also Would enjoy your take on a vr difference with these wheels. I'm running assetto corsa, gt6, project cars in vr and its mind blowing immersion, that's why I'm looking at next level DD wheels.
My old set same as like you as a T300RS but yesterday i buy R9 with Es Wheel. And i have tlcm loadcell pedals. Can i use with R9 right?
Yes you can, but not directly. The TLCM pedals don't connect to the R9. Instead, you use the USB connection on the pedals and directly connect this to a USB port on your computer.
My rig is not near my computer, so I run the USB from my wheel and pedals into a USB hub, and that goes, via a USB extension cable, to my computer.
So far this has all worked without issues.
I couldn't help but notice you paired a MOZA R9(V1) base with the ES Rim and it appears in your video it's working fine for you.
How is this so when the R9V1 isn't compatible with the ES Rim?
Also I have an R9v1 and an ES rim from an R5 bundle I'd previously purchased and it won't work. Nor does it show up at all in the software when connected to the R9.
Hi, thank you for commenting. I have the version 2 of this wheel with the ES rim.
Ah gotcha. I was a little confused as the images of the R9 you show along side the ES rim is a V1. I thought maybe you'd found a clever way to make it work. Personally I like the rim as well as the Formula 1 Mod Rim for it. I actually prefer it over my FSR Rim that, imo, is way overpriced.
Cheers!
Yes, I think I got some of the product photos mixed up during the edit, and accidentally put up the V1, although you can see it's the V2 in the video.
I like the ES rim, its a solid rim, with all the buttons I want, but I don't like the material as it always makes my hands sweat, so I ended up wearing gloves.
Been tempted by a GT wheel, but man.... Are they pricey or what?
I've just bought a T300RS GT a few days ago (mainly because of my tight budget) as my first wheel, after having played racing games on controller for as long as I can remember.
I was considering skipping it to go directly for a Moza DD but the price point was just out of reach for me. Especially with how bad the conversion rates from USD to my local currency is.
Nonetheless I think I'll give my first ever wheel a few years before I even consider upgrading the wheelbase 😅
The T300 is a great wheel and I enjoyed using it while I had it. Watch out for overheating, it can get a bit warm if you drive it hard with the Force Feedback high, but otherwise, you are going to have some fun, especially if you are transferring from a controller.
Let me know how you get on, and if you use Discord, come share your experience on the Older Gamer discord channel - discord.gg/7U34BsqDXj
I’m looking to upgrade from a Logitech wheel and was torn between the csl DD or the moza r9, how’s the customer support with moza if you’ve needed any, have you had any troubles at all with the moza yet? “A month with the moza” or a few months would be a good future video down the line
Also if anyone knows any tips on building a sim racing computer I’d appreciate any help never built one before
I haven't had to have any contact with customer support, so I can say how they are one way or the other. So far the only problems I had was the wheel feeling a bit rough on first go, but running Recovery and Reset (which apparently calibrates the pedal as well) sorted it out. To be honest, I guess a calibration is the first thing we should all do once it gets out of the box.
I have a plan to run another review of this wheel at the end of the next iRacing season. Season 3 will start this week (6th June 2023 - for those reading this in the future) and at the end of that run, 13 weeks, I should have a much better opinion on what I do and don't like about this wheel.
For building a Sim Racing computer I would look at my video where I built an i5 with a 3070 earlier this year - th-cam.com/video/dm8jdlMjhVM/w-d-xo.html
In the description you will find two TH-cam channels that are invaluable when trying to work out what bits your need for your PC. Also, check out my video as it shows that building a PC these days in not as scary as it used to be, so long as your remember a couple of things (dealt with in the video). Let me know how you get on.
After watching this need to open F1 and play with my TX leather edition 😀
Go for it :)
The first thing you need to do if you want to get into sim racing seriously is to ditch the chase camera view and get in the cockpit, then get your field of view setup correctly. Your lap times will thank you!!!
Hi, thank you for the feedback, I should have explained more clearly that I always race in cockpit view, I just used chase cameras here to show the movement of the car, and the differences in handling between the two different wheel bases. I will try to make this point clearer in future videos.
FOV for me is I think not something I can change as I race in VR. That correct?
@@OlderGamersPerspective if you're racing in VR then your field of view will be correct. No need to change anything!
@@lufferov Yeah, I thought that might be the case, but thank you for confirming this.
Bought a T300 a few weeks ago and suffering from overheating. It’s unusable when it reduces the FFB mid race. I’m going to have to return it, which is a shame as it is great value.
Just ordered the GT DD Pro as in on PS5. Let’s hope it doesn’t take months to arrive 🤞
Do you know what power rating you have it set to? Some have said on here that reducing the amount of newtons it's trying to output can reduce the over heating. That being said, you may also have a defective unit, which is a shame.
The fanatec is a great choice. Let me know how it turns.
Check if you have the T300RS internal fan running.
Search in the manual and set it to always on, it sure helps a lot. During 3 years of use, I have never felt overheating and had it always on.
Not sure if this is still valid, if not, just search how to do it:
"What you need to do is press "Mode" and "Option/Start" and hold down until the red light flashes. If it flashes twice, it means forced cooling is switched on. If it gives a single flash, it means the cooling is set to "Automatic"."
I started with the Moza r5 Bundle and upgraded to the Asetek Forte. It is noticeable but not a crazy improvement.
(i have an mx-5 2020 irl, too :) )
That's interesting, what sorts of improvements did you get from the Asetek pedals? and do you think they will start to feel even better when you get more used to them?
But mate how do you use your thrustmaster pedals with your moza r9 i just Got a r9 and i have thrustmaster pedals
Hi there, thank you for watching and commenting on this video.
I have the T-LCM pedals plugged in via the USB out from the pedals not the DIN plug that was plugged into the T300. I then use the Thrustmaster software for calibration (I only had to do this once or twice until I got it how I wanted it to be). The Pedals are not connected to the steering wheel. Both go into the computer via separate USB leads, one lead from the wheel and the other from the pedals, this goes into a HUB.
I do find sometimes that the pedals don't register when my computer comes out of hibernation, and they need to be plugged in and out again to show up. To avoid scrabbling around behind the computer, I have the pedals (and the wheel) plugged into a hub that has switches on it, this then allows me to switch the devices on and off, and this this usually enough to allow the computer to see the devices.
www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B09V6WY1SD
This is the hub I use.
Let me know if you need any more information from me.
I'm looking at buying either the T300 or R5 as a first wheel. After a few months with it, do you still recommend direct drive over it? I'm a bit concerned with some things I read about the R5 that the T300 doesn't seem to have, like compatibility issues in games, some notchiness or oscillations. Do you have that problem with the R9? Has your opinion changed after a few months? Thanks!
To directly answer your question, I am very happy with the R9 and I will never go back to a belt or gear driven wheel. I did have some notchiness when I first got it, but I ran the calibration feature in the Pit house software (that comes with the wheel) and it went away and never came back. I have never had to run the calibration software again since, which must be coming up on about a year now.
But, I don't change my wheels at all and I am still using the ES wheel that I started with. If you were to change wheels, you would need to run the calibration feature each time you changed.
Touch wood I have not seen any reliability issues with my R9, and it really just works fine, sometimes almost a bit too realistic when I crash, but it relays some wonderful track detail to me when I am driving, in particular, with the smaller open wheel cars.
So, I would recommend it, but possibly not if you want to use it with a console, as there is, as far as I know, no way to connect it to an Xbox or PlayStation, but don't quote me on that as I it's not something I know a lot about.
Any sim that I have tried with it, iRacing, AC, ACC, AMS2 and PC2 have all worked fine. Some, like PC2 are a pain in the backside to set up, but it can be done and it will work, it's just a bit fiddly.
As for the R5? Well, I don't know the wheel and have never used it, but as far as I can see from the reviews, it is a step up from the T300. You will need either a rig or a wheel stand to run it though, I think trying to attach it to the desk will be a subpar experience. Maybe someone who does do this can comment on that?
Anyway, let me know how it turns out.
Thanks for the reply! It'll be for PC only, so console compatibility won't be an issue. I'll be playing on a desk, though - not considering anything higher than R5/T300 due to that, hoping it'll work out. Also not expecting to change wheels - except maybe swapping the D-shaped rim with a round one, but that's a one-time thing.
By the way, any issues with oscillations when you take your hands off? I noticed you did it with the T300 and there were no problems, but I recall a couple of videos with the R9 where it'd oscillate a lot with hands off. They're about one year old, though, so not sure if it was addressed via software in the meantime.
PC only should be no problem, I run mine through a powered USB hub, on to which is also connected the load cell pedals, keyboard and a mouse.
I did initially have an issue with oscillation, but there is a spider setting in the Pit house software that allows you to adjust this, and since then I haven't thought about it.
You will probably be able to just about get away with the R5 on a deal mount, if the desk is robust enough, but load cell pedals will be a different story.
Ended up going for the R5. You weren't kidding in your video, it's definitely not plug 'n play, takes a long while to get it right. I think I'm getting closer to it, but not there yet. I'm having fun with it (and even already shattered a couple of long-standing personal track records I had with controller), but still wondering if I made the right call by having it as a first wheel. Maybe something easier like the T300 would have been a better first step, to gain knowledge. There are some things where I'm not sure if I just have the configuration wrong, if it's meant to be like that or even if the wheelbase is defective. The force feedback doesn't feel smooth (it's really different from driving a car), but I'm not sure if there's something wrong with it or if that's just how it's meant to be.
The pedals were a pleasant surprise. It's probably because I don't know any better, but I actually like them. I bought the performance kit and haven't even tried it yet, as the brake pedal seems to have enough resistance for me. Also had no issues with oscillations or anything like that. I feel some notchiness sometimes, but not sure if it's a problem or just how force feedback works.
Another good thing is how small it is, and the quick release. I just attach it to the desk, connect the pedals and the wheel, and I'm good to go. When I'm done, I just pop off the wheel and the pedals, and place the base on the top of the desk. Takes less than a minute.
Some mixed feelings so far, but I guess most of it is probably due to my lack of knowledge.
Sounds like you are getting to grips with it all. The force feedback is not the same as a car, but, if you stick with it, you will start to appreciate the detail it gives you, on some tracks, like Summit Point, it can even feel like too much detail. But I am told that Summit Point is a very bumpy track in real life, so maybe it's just too real?
Make sure you run the calibration. If you are taking it off to store it, and putting it back on again, you may need to run the calibration more often. Not every time, but every now and then to make sure it's all set correctly. After that, it's a case of dialling in the settings to suit your own taste. That's the bit that does take a bit of time. Still shocks me slightly when I get hit by another car and the wheel jumps in my hard in such a fashion that THEN it feels very real.
The T300 is an excellent wheel, but the R9/R5 are better, and will offer a more immersive experience. I think you did the right thing going for a DD wheel straight away, just give yourself some time to adjust to using it, probably best not to alter too many settings at once, and just experiment with it all until you find something that works for you. I think I saved about 7 or 8 self made presets before I was happy. So it does take a bit of time and effort, and you can only really judge what you have done once you have got used to the experience.
And don't forget to have fun with it all :) Sometimes, I am so busy testing, I forget to have fun, and sometimes I am so busy having fun I forget what I should be testing. Finding the balance is always the tricky bit.
The T300 actually has around 4Nm (3.9 if i remember it right).
Besides tha: Thx fr the informative Video. I´m thiking to buy a R5 or R9 as a replacement for my T300 too.
Hi, thank you for commenting and also watching the video. Yes indeed, I made that mistake in the video, and it's been pointed out a few times, so I've added a correction in the description. Glad you found the video informative :) Let me know which you decide to buy, the R5 or 9, and why. But that being said, the T300 is an epic wheel.
@@OlderGamersPerspective yes it is a great and fun wheel. Especially when you transition from a Logitech Momo wheel.
But often it just feels too "squishy" for me in the FFB.
@@DerMega Muted?
@@OlderGamersPerspective you could call it like that. But only for the fine details.
Sections like Hatzenbach on the Nürburgring Nodschleife work great on the wheel. With the bigger bumps in the road.
Cant wait to buy the moza R9 with f1 wheel
Cool move. I keep looking at the F1 wheel, and also the GT wheel, but I race in VR, so I keep asking myself if there would be a point :) But anyway, enjoy your wheel when you get it and let me know how you get on.
Have you tried the r5? Curious to hear your input regarding the comparison of r5 vs r9!
Hi, I didn't get a chance to try one at the ADAC sim racing show. Mostly they seemed to have the big powerful stuff that shook the rigs they were on so much I mistook them for motion rigs. From what I've heard, it's still a decent buy, but not as detailed in track feedback as the R9.
What are you upgrading from?
First thing I would say is use all of the circuit you have, you enter every corner way too early. Wait at the outside of the corner, then go for the apex and exit wide. There’s loads of videos on how to corner, you should watch them
First of all, thank you for the feedback.
You are right of course, this is the correct way to race, using all the course and hitting the Apex. In this video I was narrating while driving and it was one of the first times I had done this, and I have to say, I found it somewhat difficult. That being said, at that stage of my racing experience, my driving lines were pretty awful.
I have recently released another video, A week in the life of a Rookie Race track. Take a look at the races in this one, I still have a long way to go, but I think I am starting to show some improvement.
@@OlderGamersPerspectivechatting and racing is very difficult for sure.
I moved from a TMX ffb to a R5 and I couldn't be happier. Don't get me wrong, the TMX was a very nice entry wheel and did what it needed to do.
I felt exactly the same when I moved from the T300. It did a lot of what I wanted it to do, but the R9 was just better at everything and I don't regret my purchase. Probably regret more, not doing it sooner.
@OlderGamersPerspective what kept me back for so long was the pricing. Once this became more accessible, all I needed to do was convince my "boss".
@@bundy26 Yes that's the tricky bit. You can always blame me for leading you into bad habits. I don't mind :)
so i just ordered my r9 with cs wheel cant wait i started with a g29 then a t300 the differnce was night and day hopefully the moza is good from what i see i should be happy.
Yes, when I got the T300, I though, yeah, this is cool. Then I got the R9 and was initially underwhelmed, until I realised that I needed to spend time in the Pithouse software sorting out the best settings that worked for me personally. You will find a lot of people telling you how to set up the R9, and all of them are good starting points, but you will need to tweak and test to get the best from the wheel.
But either way, pretty sure you are going to enjoy the experience :)
You need to open your racing lines much more. Use the whole track from kerb to kerb. You will get MUCH faster that way. Most of your lines were way to shallow, especially on the corner you were asking for help on. Start further to the left (with left tyres on the kerb) with a slightly later apex and you will have a much much better line out with way more speed
You are right, and it is something that I have been working on. I posted last week of my racing at the Rookie Roval track, I think I have improved. Take a look, I'd be interested to hear what you think.
I'm 59 and have been sim racing since the 90's. I'm more of an on/off casual player. I am into immersion and effects. I have 4 buttkickers under a platform for 4 theatre seats and surround sound with 2 power amps. I use a buttkicker , VR ,TLCM pedals and z906 surround sound for sim racing. The 4 are night and day for immersion and feeling like your in a race car. I recently ordered a Moza R12, CS and KS wheels at $1,200 (+ shipping). Coming from a G920 I'm expecting night and day feel of the cornering, curbs, grass, pavement. Your lack of enthusiasm may be because your going from a ts300 to R9 (I suspect), but being able to use a 13 inch wheel and QR to a formula/GT3 wheel in game will be ENTHUSIASTIC for me. Thoughts anyone.
Hi, thank you for commenting, and nice to meet a fellow older gamer.
I don't think I am lacking in enthusiasm for the R9, in fact I love it and I am so glad I bought it, but in order of priority, I think the load cell pedals made the biggest difference to my driving consistency. For sure the R9 is a big step up from the T300, and the level of detail I feel is wonderful, in fact, once I got the settings tweaked just right for me, it was an amazing experience. But I worried about saying it was a massive difference from belt drive to direct drive, as I am not sure it really was truly night and day. Perhaps with an R12 this will be more pronounced.
That being said, the level of detail in the R9 is really much clearer than a belt wheel, and I can't imagine going back.
It does have a learning curve, being so different from the T300, much like the load cells, which were a real change in driving style, although, in many ways, a little easier as they replicate a car more closely.
Either way, I am pretty sure you will have a lot of fun with this setup, it does sound awesome. I am thinking of some kind of rumble rig on mine in the future. Not sure which way to go with it though...
@@OlderGamersPerspective Cool. I recommend the buttkicker pro with hapticonnect. It's awesome just idling in a 69 Camaro let alone feeling the acceleration, shifting and rumble strips on your seat.
@@busterbrown1686 is it noisy? My concern is it will create too much buzzing when attached to the metal frame of my rig.
@@OlderGamersPerspective No noise. It's a DD for the rig so to speak . Can you hear the DD ? Any buzzing with the DD ?.Only buzz would be from something loose. It's effects driven not audio speaker performance. You'd have to isolate your rig from the floor with pads rubber in nature so it's free to motion. 4 hockey pucks under each corner for example.I have the Buttkicker pro on an office racing chair (isolated by the wheels) and so impressed. The plus would be definitely to small for a rig.You don't know what your missing, but can't drive/fly without it when you find out. I'll go out on a limb and say you'll buy a second one (intensify different effects per separate kicker), or add bass shakers for that rig.😁Yes you'd need a amp for each kicker. Research on TH-cam like I found you, but I'm here to answer a question anytime.
@@busterbrown1686 thank you, I appreciate the offer for advice and help, and will be taking you up on it :) I have zero experience with butt kickers or bass shakers. I looked a number of times for Elite Dangerous, MSFS, and now of course iRacing, and other sim based games, but I've never followed through.
I am going to visit the ADAC Sim racing expo in Dortmund in October, I am hoping to see some examples of kickers and shakers, and get an idea on how the effect will work for me.
I've also looked at the next level racing seat cover, with built in rumble stuff, but that would raise my seat, and I've got it in a sweet spot.
Anyways, thank you for the advice and the insights. Do you have a video of your rig running?
How to Connect TLCM pedal to moza r9? Do i need an Adapter?
Hi, I didn't connect the TLCM to the Moza 9. I used the USB connection on the pedals and connected that to a USB hub (along with the wheel) that runs directly to my computer. You do nee (I seem to remember) an extra bit of free software from Thurstmaster to set the pedals up with USB, but once done, it's done.
Not seeing many others talking about this here, but a lot of your corner entries are started from not an optimal entry point. You’re mid position in the track or maybe a car width from the left of the track before setting up say, a right hander. If you had been further over, you would have rounded that corner off a little bit more and carried more speed. I’m seeing you do this in a lot of the corners. Watch the AI’s positioning. Where they are, you should also be. Upon apex and then driving out, drive out to the outside line of the turn to maximize that speed advantage to complete the turn.
I know this sounds rudimentary, but just putting it out there for ya in case you did not know :)
No you be as rudimentary as you want, I am keen to learn.
Yes I had noticed this myself, that I was road driving instead of track driving, and I have been attempting to correct this by using more of the track and attempting to straighten out the corners.
Of course, most of this tends to go out the window when I have an opponent glued to my back bumper, but, I am starting to see my lap times drop, and I am starting to poll at G3 or G4 more often than not. Finishing is of course a different story. One small mistake, and it's all over.
Watching the AI's has been a big help, I plan to do more of that next season on iRacing.
Hope to see you on the track :)
Absolutely! I’ve been focusing more time these days on DCS (Digital Combat Simulator) and relearning a F/A-18 flight control, but I may dive back in with the Thrustmaster steering and the Fanatec pedals (I forget the exact ones, but they are the pretty nice load cell ones).
Work on getting close to that outside line and then dive in. I do a lot of circle track racing and any space you can squeeze out of the track by getting close (although I think you lose a little if you get too close due to wind drag and you may hit it) you’ll do better with a sharp turn in and entry.
Some tracks are too wide though and have better lines which do not require the full use of the track to be efficient, however. But this is circle track stuff and likely doesn’t apply too much to road.
I wish you luck out there as well, buddy. Let ‘em have it. The more you race, the better you’ll get under pressure because it’s just another race, and what is scary will not be so scary after awhile.
Moza offers a wheel mod that increase the diameter from 28cm to 30cm. Have you checked it out ?
I looked at the 30cm when I was considering the R9, but bought the 28cm version with the R9 because various reviews that I watched seemed to indicate that the 30cm passed less detail on from the R9 unit. I think they are indicating that the bigger the wheel, then the bigger the direct drive should be, and that the 28cm was a better fit for the R9.
So I went with that. I haven't regreted that decision and the wheel never feels too small for me. Possibly if you are in to truck driving, this would be different.
I think the T300 is a great entry point for sim driving, a cheap way to see if you like it.
But with a proper rig and setup, there's no comparison to Belt vs DD. The belt feels like a toy compared to a DD.
Yes the T300 is an excellent start point, although with price of Direct Drive wheels dropping, it may soon have had it's day. That being said, I enjoyed using it and it was probably the best belt wheel that I owned.
If I were to do this again, I would upgrade rig first, pedals second and wheel third. But they all work in close harmony, so it's always going to be a tough call deciding which order to upgrade.
Great video. 71 y.o just getting started.
How did you set the buttons on the steering wheel?
Hi, thank you for commenting and welcome to the world of sim racing. Which game are you using?
Excellent video :) Im in a very similar situation, but with a TGT2 instead of the t300. Also quickly traded the t3pa pedals for TLCMs and now looking at either Fanatec GT DD pro 8nm or Moza R9, but the TGT2 is, in my opinion, probably the best belt-driven wheel, I rate it higher than the CSL Elite. So Im not sure how big the upgrade is going to be comparatively and if I want to drop that kind of money on it already.
By the way, I got a 3D printed brakemod from 3DRap, and it completely transformed my brake pedal, so much more realistic now.
Thank you for the feedback :)
Going from a belt drive to a DD is going to be an improvement, maybe similar when going from a car stereo to a good HiFi player with decent speakers. You know what I mean? It's not like the difference would be truly dramatic, but suddenly, there is this whole range of musical notes that you weren't even aware of, and now you can clearly hear them, and when you go back to the car stereo, you realise what you are missing.
That's really the feeling of a DD wheel over a belt drive one. It's not something you can't live without, until you try it, then you really miss the extra fidelity of a DD wheel over the belt driven one. It just makes sim racing better, in various smaller, non-dramatic ways, adding up to a big QOL improvement.
Thank you for the tip on the 3DRap brakemod, I will check it out. Currently working on the T-LCM review video :)
Just a question... Are you playing on PC? Because your wheel looks like set to PS4 mode. But on PC, it should be set to PS3 mode and the diod should be shinning red...
Are you talking about the shots of the T300 ? Possibly the T300 may have shown the wrong setting while I was taking photos of it, but I always checked it before I started racing.
UPDATE: did some digging and apparently the firmware was updated so the LED shows green when connected to a PC.
ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pictures/PCMAC/T300RS/T300_V34_Led_Color_s.png
@@OlderGamersPerspective I will check my drivers. I have T300 GT edition, playing on PC and I always had it (as recommended) set to the PS3 mode, LED always shinning red.
...
Anyway - I am happy with T300. And I think I can be damn consistent with it too...
The ONLY issue I had with both wheel and pedals, they both started making squeeking noises just after a few weeks of use. Looks like Thrustmaster is not able to put a grease.
So, I think I lost the warranty right after a few weeks.
@ I thought the T300 wheel was damned good for the money, the noise that bothered me more was the fan, kicking out like a turbo jet when things got frantic on track. I don't remember any squeaking though.
@@OlderGamersPerspective Heh... interesting. I've read complains about the over-turboing fan, but in my case, the fan is absolutely OK. The squeeky noise started, as I mentioned, very soon after purchasing the thing. And it was totally annoying. The wheel squeeked always in the same position - like 10° left and the throttle pedal was first to squeek as well. And you can imagine, you can't focus on driving when "you know that the damn sound will be there again".
The solution was really easy - open both things, put a grease to all moving parts, lose the warranty. Done.
...
Finally - I am always little bit sceptical about these TH-cam wheel reviews. You mention that the "personal setup / tweaking" is important. Same as "getting used to your thing".
Of course, better hardware is "better", but among my online sim-friends, some use the crappy old hardware and are cosmic fast... like one friend, using G25.
But I liked your video. Not that I did not. :) ... Some good points / opinions.
@ I know what you mean, the youtube review industry is getting a little out of control. I bought the deckchair sim chair thing, from NLR (the GT Lite), because I saw reviews saying it was pretty good, from reviewers I did trust, but, it turned out to be a smouldering pile of dung and I had to send it back (at my own expense) and then spend about 2 weeks wrangling over the refund.
So yeah, it's good to be sceptical about anything on here, even stuff people by with their own money isn't always reviewed evenly. Maybe they have an eye towards future sponsorships. Don't know. I am just in for the giggles. I like computer games, vr and sim racing are my favourites, and I like making videos, hopefully with a bit of dark humour in there, so for me, it's win win. If people enjoy my videos, even better :)
Glad you got the squeeky stuff sorted out. Last night my Oculus 2 got caught in a cycle of always wanting to tell me to reset the guardian and although it was just a background hum, boy did it put me off!
If you like to drive I-racing i say buy the nordschleife track is amazing you will love it with your MX5.
I did buy this a week or so back, and raced it in the pro cup with the mx5. A challenging course that took me a while to get to grips with, but yes, I can really see why people come back to this course. It is great fun, but punishing of mistakes.
Any heat issues i see people talking about overheating issues kind of putting me off get moza and just sticking with thrustmaster
I have also heard these comments about overheating, but never experienced it myself. Every time I turn the unit off, I access the rear switch from a seated position, with my wrist resting on top of the case, while searching for the button. If it was overheating, I would have noticed.
Possibly other people race with an extreme high force feedback value, higher than mine, or they race for longer than me. I race at a moderate FFB level, and usually put in a session of between 90 minutes to two hours.
After a year of use, I've never noticed any overheating and the unit has always performed flawlessly.
Maybe I was just lucky, maybe I am not using it to the extremes others are. I don't know, all I can tell you is, as of 12 months use, this has never been an issue for me.
nice video your racing lines though are quite a way off ??
Yes indeed. Narrating and racing turns out to be more brain taxing than I thought, plus, really need to sort out my racing lines.
Can i use the thrustmaster th8a with MOZA r9? In ps5?
Only if you can find a way to plug it into the PS5. I am fairly sure it won't plug into the Moza R9, so that would be the only way to do it. Not saying it can't be done, but you would probably need a PC in the mix somewhere.
great review from someone who is normal.
Thank you. Not sure I have ever regarded myself as Normal, but I appreciate the support :)
Not sure how you drive in that view I can only drive in cockpit view
Hi, thank you for the comment. Just to clarify, I drive exclusively from the cockpit view while racing, but in the replay, specifically this one, I wanted to show compare how the car was moving on the track using each wheel. But yeah, I know what you mean, I have seen other people, usually with xbox controllers, who prefer the chase view for racing, but it's not for me.
Hello! Could you help me please? What do you think change t300 to R5?
It's a solid move, but you will need something to mount it on, either a wheel stand or a rig. I know people who use this with a deskmount, but it's not something I would recommend. Especially if you are going to use it in combination with a load cell pedal.
It takes time to adapt from a belt driven wheel to a direct drive, but it's worth the effort.
@@OlderGamersPerspective Thanks for your feedback. I will mount on a desk, I don't have space to install a rig for example. The pedal is propped up on the wall.
@@felipemoraes7277 what about a wheel stand? Try it on the desk first, but if you feel it's not working, maybe look at one of the many wheel stands that are available.
@@OlderGamersPerspective thank you. But, have much diferrence about ffb from t300 to R5?
@@felipemoraes7277 That I can't tell you as I haven't used one. Reddit would be a good place to ask.
I'm in almost exact same position..
which way are you going to go? R5, R9 or R12?
You have at least a full car width more to use which is miles in racing
Very true. My driving lines need a lot of work.
Finally a good video?!? ... and not some cringe zoomer generic tech channel. Rejoice
Wow, that's a cool compliment. Thank you very much.
here in Brazil the R9 is so expensive like a real car :(
Yes, I have seen on the news that prices for computer stuff is high in that part of the world. Steam as well now I gather :(
No disrespect meant chap, but I've never seen anyone sim-race with hand positioning of 10&2 aka taught as "good" real life method. Each to their own obviously, but I think you might find it better to change how you grip the wheel. I personally have my thumb sat directly over / on the wheels frame at 9&3, then have index and middle finger wrap around and to the back of the wheel obviously just above 9&3 (gear shift paddles operated by middle finger), and the ring and little fingers wrapped around and to the back of the wheel just below 9&3. Your method reduces your pressure points of input by working in only the upper half of the wheel which also puts a lots of emphasis on just your shoulders. and the wheel is only communicating to you through small contact areas. My method however gives more feel of feedback (the more contact points spanning wider range over the wheel gives you this), while also giving you more working range (essentially controlling 8 through 10 for left hand, and 2 through 4 for the right - which also makes reaching larger steering lock angles physically easier as your emphasis point is in a lower starting position), and the physical emphasis can therefore be spread all the way through shoulders, arms and even your side (lateral) muscles and importantly your abs / body core, and you can change wheel part emphasis dependent on the corner too (I personally rely on upper part of wheel for up to mid-speed precision driving and lower part of wheel for faster more forceful sections where your body can help out too). As a result, you'll have a way better idea of what the wheel is saying to you and equally a way better means to control the wheel as a response. Hand positioning alone won't achieve that perfect balance though as seating position is equally important relative to your wheel and pedals - you ideally need your body placed in a pretty specific way so that you can use pretty much all your body to influence the steering wheel (and pedals of course). If you're not using all of your body at times then you're not in the optimal position. You can achieve this with your ART cockpit as I do with my Titan version (I'm 6'3'' and use the same XLRS seat too). When you're in the perfect position, you'll use every single part of your body (even including your bum) and it makes for one hell of an immersive and fun experience, and you should be considerably faster, with much more smoother driving lines, and much more consistency too! :)
Hello, and thank you for this detailed feedback, I really do love it when people take the time to give me detailed advice on how to improve my driving style, and I always take time to listen and figure out how to implement it.
So, the hands on the wheel. Yep. You are 100% right. Being a driver who passed his test in the 80's (when they taught this, not sure if they still do), I automatically drive at 10/2. My current car, the iD3, even has grips on the wheel at this position (or about there I guess) and the buttons on the wheel are comfortable to reach from that position.
When I first started to use the Moza ES wheel, one thing I noticed, during the race, was my index finger was starting to go numb. Due to it being hooked around the wheel at the 2 of the 10/2, while my other fingers stretched to reach the right side paddle for changing gear. In fact, over a longer race, I would actually leave the sim with some pain in hand and wrist.
Of course the clue was in the question. When I looked at the actual arms in front of me in the sim (iRacing in this case) I saw the thumbs hooked over the spokes of the wheel (instead of further up where I had them) and the hands placed at 9/3. As soon as I swapped to this, my fingers naturally found a better place to be, and the pains that I had from longer racing just went away.
So this is clearly the way to go, but thank you for taking the time to advise me on this. I think the reason I didn't notice it was because I race in VR and as such, don't look at my hands. One of the dangers of putting your self into a place that isn't really real.
The seat advise is going to take a bit of time to figure out. I have already changed the seat position twice now, one time to a point where I needed t redesign my side table so it still had the correct height for my mouse to rest on. LOL. But yeah, when the seat is correct, and you feel the car movement in your head, with the back and bum gripping as you corner, it really does add up to faster, more consistent lap times.
All I need then is the spotter to say 'and don't forget to breathe' during hectic moments on track, and then it will be approaching perfection :)
@@OlderGamersPerspective Glad to be of some help / use chap. Not all real-world everyday driving setup & habits translate to racing - road cars are more about comfort and race cars are all about performance & efficiency. My equipment in my cockpit is all a touch closer to me both horizontally & vertically compared to my real car as I need more precision, usability, versatility & strength in vehicle control when racing.
As for seating position / placement that should be relatively obvious, although I see all too often 2 significant errors / oversights...
1) People sitting too far from the wheel, which forces a driving style based all in the arms & shoulders alone, and...
2) People having the wheel angle too high, putting even more emphasis on the shoulders. Setting angle is easy - get the wheel in the correct closeness and roughly correct height, then loosen the angle adjustment screws on the rig so it's stable but moveable, and while pushing & pulling on the wheel also raise then lower the angle. Too high and you feel a primary emphasis in shoulders, too low and the emphasis is in abdomen, and somewhere between (not necessarily the exact middle though) is the sweet spot where you feel equal use of every part of upper body (lower abdomen upwards).
As for changing placement / positions multiple times, I got my tools out at least 6 times to make subtle tweaks. Every change I thought was the last, but next time I sat in the rig it felt a bit off, it just takes time!
I totally understand though about the pains that you were having and it's great you've fixed that. As for being in VR and not seeing actual hands, I'm a bit jealous so I see that as a good problem to have! I'm still in flat-screen land (albeit using 65" screen).
Sorry if I'm preaching, I just like to share my experiences just in case it helps! Happy racing chap!
@@LargeStyle No it's all good. You are preaching to the converted, so not an issue.
At the moment I am concerned my wheel is a tad high, but I think the adjustment of the wheel base is about as low as it can go and I know the seat is as high as it can go. Of course this would mean I have the justification to buy that NLR Hf8 and raise my seating position!!!
The wheel angle I have is fairly flat, possible too flat? I am wondering if it needs to go back a bit.
Problem is, at the moment I am putting in my fastest times ever, and with the least amount of crashes, so I am worried about changing anything at all.
It is a tough call. At the moment I am starting to think my pedals are slightly too near to me as I am getting a bit of leg ache towards the end of long sessions.
@@OlderGamersPerspective Glad that I'm not annoying you then!
For wheel height, if you've run out of equipment options & if not done so already perhaps put a cushion or pillow on your chair just to assess the difference compared to without.
For wheel closeness I have a golden rule: when sat in racing position, grip the wheel with one hand at the 12 position, the back of your hand & your forearm needs to be flat & pointed upward, then ensure that your shoulder is touching your chair, then you completely straighten your arm by locking it & your elbow in one big straight line. If you're too close to the wheel your arm won't have enough room to straighten completely. If you're too far then your shoulder won't be touching the seat (or if you keep your shoulder touching chair then you won't be able to grip the wheel as I described). Perfect placement is where you can only just lock your arm / elbow straight when gripping wheel and shoulder placement is as described.
For leg (ache), if your calf muscles particularly ache the pedals are either too far and / or angled too far back. If your hamstrings ache then the pedals are too close and / or angled too far forward. If your quad muscles or knees ache then your pedals are too stiff for your natural strength.
As for not wanting to rock your results boat, that's 1000% understandable, and I wouldn't experiment in sessions which affect your rating in case your experiments either don't work out or take time to adjust to. I'm unfamiliar with iRacing so I don't know if you have unrated (practice) sessions, but perhaps try changes while on another sim. If you don't have many /any alternatives, Steam will have a big summer sale at the end of this month. As for already being somewhat comfortable Vs risking change, that's obviously a decision only you can make. I'm a bit crazy and can't rest until I've tried everything for peace of mind, but if you're not bothered about achieving perfection and just want to be happy enough then again that's your call. If you are careful with knowing what you adjust and by how much, you should be able to revert back if desired 😊
@@LargeStyle Okay, this is all good stuff. I've had a look at the wheel distance, and going by your instructions the wheel is about the correct distance away. I can straighten my arm with my shoulder touching the seat.
Not sure about the height though. Difficult to judge in the video and also when I am sitting there, but I would estimate the TOP of the wheel is roughly aligned, with my clavicle. Roughly!
The pedals I will have to use a bit more, but I think it's more knee ache, so not sure what I can do about that.
I am using iRacing and it has AI races that don't effect iRating and also some test laps that I can do. What would you recommend in the upcoming Steam Sale? I have AC, Dirt 2.0 and Project Cars 2.
You can tell your from the UK or somewhere in Europe just by you left foot braking they don't do that here in the US of A
I did not know that :) I am from the UK, but now living somewhere in Europe :)
Can l get the old wheel since you upgraded 😂😂😂
Sold it mate :)
so T818 for the win
Unknown at this time as I haven't tried it. It certainly looks like an awesome wheel base, but it also has an awesome price. Hopefully I can try one out at the ADAC sim racing expo in October. Then perhaps I can say for sure if it's worth that money.
@@OlderGamersPerspective just have to set it to performance mode and go
@@roadi7 The T818? Well okay, yes the options are simple for setup, but I think half the fun is playing with the Moza Pit House settings. If setting something to Performance does everything you need, then go for it, but I have a feeling most sim racers want more from their settings than a single checkbox.
@@OlderGamersPerspective simple yet effective settings leaves more time for racing
Logitech is a bit above.
There are starting to be returns of 818, with a breakage at the hub....
Above the logitech, there is the simagic mini .... which is not only 10 nm but 13 in peak
You don't need that wheel if you play like that, looking the car from above. A $50 wheel will do the job.
Thank you for the feedback.
I'm going from logitech dfgt to moza r5.
Cool. Let me know how it turns out :) Settings needs some work with the R9, but once you have it dialled in, you should have a good time.
@@OlderGamersPerspectiveI was mistaken in product I got the r5 and am currently loving it but I cannot get it to work properly in project cars 2.
I went from a DFGT to the T300. You're gonna have a massive upgrade :D
@@118Shadow118 it has been nothing but amazing. With this setup I was finally able to learn drifting.
@GaragebuiltOriginal very cool 😎
will a MOZA wheel work with a ps4
I don't think so, but then I don't own a PlayStation. Far as I know, Moza only officially support the PC, but who knows if that will change in the future. Their wheel rims look ready for it, but I don't know if it will ever happen.
No, Moza bases don't support consoles.
@@vsm1456 let's hope they do in future updates
@@OlderGamersPerspective As far as I know, it's impossible to add console compatibility through an update. Your device needs to have a security chip for each console, at least for the last couple of console generations.
@@vsm1456 Really? So that's not going to happen then for existing models. Perhaps future models will have it. Thank you for the information.
my wheel has a massive dead zone in the middle :D
have you checked the pithouse settings? I know you can set dead zones in that, and indeed in the software that you race with.
@@OlderGamersPerspective no no i have a genius speed wheel 5 xD
its basically a glorified chinese controller. has no drivers, no force feedback, doesn't even have vibration. what it does have is a little switch labeled ps but does nothing. the pedals are junk too but the accelerator is quite sensitive so that's good i guess.
@@white_mage Okay, maybe time for an upgrade?
@@OlderGamersPerspective
no upgrade until i get a job but first need to finish school.
@@white_mage TIme is on your side :)
I went from two g27 to an t300rs to an t150 with load cell pedals.. Honestly the 150 is pretty much just as good as the t300(90% of the t300), would love it to have a faster centring force but other than that I am very pleased with the t150. Honestly the Race Sims are still just games in my opinion and not even close to reality so why even put so much money in this hobby.
That is an excellent question, and one the game industry would prefer no one asks! ;) Honestly, if you think the sim racer community is spending big bucks, you should take a look at the flight sim world! Frightening amounts of money being spent there.
At the end of the day, yes, someone with a basic wheel and pedal set, bolted to their computer desk, can have as much fun as someone in a full motion rig with the best DD wheel and pedals on the market (the former might even get faster laptimes!). However, people being people, they chase the best experience they can get, which for some means spending more money on more expensive equipment.
I am going to the ADAC expo in October, and I shudder to think what I will bring home from that!
Enjoy the T150, a solid wheel.
Enjoyed the vid. However the T300 has 3.8nm
Really? I thought it was 2.9. Then I guess it makes even more sense to NOT go with a R5 as that would be an even smaller leap, although, technically, it would be the better wheel. Thank you for the correction, I will have to try and find a way to put a correction up.
@An Older Gamers Perspective yeah, but an R5 at 5.5nm would still like a decent jump up. Also with the moza you can run it at peak ffb for extended periods of time without fade. Every single Thrustmaster I have owned, I have had to run them at around 70% power for fear of them overheating and damaging the motors.
@@robertcarr4172 very true. Technology moves on. The R5 is a great looking wheel base, I just felt if I was going to spend money it probably should be for something that seemed to offer significantly more power. But your argument is a very valid reason for getting the R5.
3.9 precisely 😃
it is his mistake, which made me comment on this video, but you have already pointed out the problem 😉
@@OlderGamersPerspective correct .
the best would be to take the double in ffb, of the steering wheel used
Wait doesnt the T300 have 3.9nM or is that only the RS Version because mine for sure has 3.9nM Welp.. And The way you're holding the wheel can become dangerous for DD Please watch out
It does yes, this has been something that's been discussed in the comments, but the Tl;DR version is, the 3.9 power of the T300 could cause overheating, so it was best to run it at less.
And yes, the way I was holding the wheel was not ideal, and an overshoot from running for so long on the T300. Someone else commented on how I should place my hands and I have now adapted my style to a safer one, and also one that is better for racing.
The only thing I need to do though, was buy some gloves, as the Moza wheel fabric is not nearly as nice as the T300.
@@OlderGamersPerspective Yeah 9-3 hands position is very important
Thrustmaster T300rs gt have 3.9 nm power ffb
Hi, yes this comes up every now and again in the comments. If you read down further you will find that people more versed in this than me have concluded that although it can output this power range, it's best not to as it can cause issues. So for all practical
senses, what I have said is correct.
okey
@@OlderGamersPerspective
T300/RS has 4.4nm not 2.9
Hello, thank you for commenting. I did in fact make and error in this Video and I've added a correction in the description. But the official nm of the T300 is listed as 3.9nm.
The T300 has 3.8nm not 2.9
Yes, that mistake has been spotted and I added a correction in the description. Thank you for taking the time to post and make sure though :)
@@OlderGamersPerspective ups, i didn't ready the description, my bad 😁
@@nunopinheiro5543 no worries mate. Always best to mention these things in case no one else has. And thanks for watching the video
You are not practicing outside inside outside with your racing line. Your entering the corner from almost the middle of the track and it almost appears that your are worried to get ur car close to the outside edge of the track before the breaking zone and corner entry. This is making you apex early which kills ur entry, apex, exit, and down the strait speed. This also is why you ran wide on some of the exits. You have to use every inch of the track. This should solve the problem your having with that one corner also. I bet you can gain 1.5 seco ds on this track alone.
Thank you for the vid btw!
@@maydaygaming3953 My pleasure, and thank you for the feedback. I have seen this written a couple of times since I made this video, and it became obvious to me once everyone mentioned it. Which is a good thing. I have been trying to work on that, and made another video where I raced the rookies for a week, once a night. In that race I think I improved. Take a look and let me know, if you have the time.
@@OlderGamersPerspective absolutely and good luck on your journey! I picked up a lot of understanding from Driver 61 youtube videos and some other videos about physics in racing. Good luck!
T300/TX has 3.9 nm (not 2.9)
Hi, thank you for commenting. Yes, you are right, I made this mistake in the video. A few people have pointed it out so I have put a correction in the description, only it's not very obvious or easy to find. I really need to find another way to point out this error.
T300 has 3.9 nm at 100% but normally we can't use it at 100%, otherwise it will overheat and broken. All users have to lower the force feedback down to 70-75% which left you 2.7-2.9 nm.
So even if he made a mistake to inform the true specs in the video, but he's right anyway.
@@rujiranoyume956 Thank you for commenting. Yes, this is kinda what I wanted to say, but you put it better than me. Thank you.