Always enjoy the videos. I'd be interested in seeing something about the painting business itself i.e. how to start one, start-up costs, pricing the jobs, setting customer expectations, etc. Thank you.
LOVE, LOVE, LOVE your channel! Very informative and delightfully entertaining. My question is, what is the best way to remove a brass kick plate from a medal front entry door that is glued and not magnetic attached? The door is glossy black. I am changing it to SW Iron Ore with brush nickel door handles and keypad deadbolt keyless top lock. Also, it has a brass door knocker above the peep hole. Thank you so very much. 😊
I’m glad you’re finding the channel useful! Usually the kick plate is either glued, screwed, or magnetic. Sometimes it’s a combo. If there are screws then remove them with the appropriate screwdriver. If it’s glued then I use a spackle blade / mudding knife to scrape the kick plate off. Once you get back behind the glue it’s pretty easy to pry it off.
@SuperVassarBrothers Thank you so very much for your prompt response. I will follow through. Watching your video on SW Emerald Trim paint and why you strongly recommend it. Keep your great procast coming.
It’s a very nice primer, but it’s pricey 😅 to repeint my home I use Ultra spec 500, a basic primer because I don’t have particular need except don’t see the little repair flash under the paint. I paint with Ben paint, this primer is moore expensive than the paint. But I use it to prime my wood kitchen cart and a Wood Plank on the media unit, it’s very nice!
That’s the way to do it. You don’t need to use it for basic priming like you’re describing. It’s a great specialty primer for a lot of other applications.
Thanks for making this video. I'm about to paint my varnished hand rails and banister so it's good to know Fresh Start works just as good as BIN for that. Which sheen did you use a Flat, Eggshell or Satin with the Ben Moore Advance for this application?
I used semi gloss for the advance. Satin would be the lowest I would go for that application.make sure you give the surface a good sand with 150 before you prime. That’ll help fresh start get a good bond to the surface.
Two questions re using primer.... if you are covering previously stained wood, are you looking for a uniform white color by using more than 1 primer coat? Also, if you do multiple coats, do you lightly sand between prime coats or only before the top coats? Thank you.
I’m just trying to get a decent coat of primer in the stained surface. It doesn’t need to be uniform in color. Doing more than one coat of primer is generally unnecessary. I get the uniform coloring by doing multiple top coats. I’ll sand before I prime, then in between topcoats if necessary.
Hi Jeremy, What is your recommended primer for rusted steel furniture? KILZ 3 Premium Interior/Exterior Multi-purpose Water-based Wall and Ceiling Primer or Rust-oleum primer spray? I am striving to refurbish a Room & Board steel desk. Thanks.
I’d make sure to sand down the surface so it’s as smooth as possible. I’d probably go with the Rust-oleum on that one. I’m not sure the Kilz 3 would give you a good bond to that surface but I’ve got limited experience with those products and the application you’re talking about. Take that for what you will and good luck with your project!
changing bunk beds from navy to white - sanded well and used my wagner to spray this amazing primer. How long would you let it cure before coating with Advance? I expect lots of wear and tear and want the best possible process for good durability. Thanks!
You’ll be good to start coating with advance right now. Once you get it coated with advance then I’d let it cure for at least 72 hours before trying to use it. Advance has a long cure time, so that’s the important one to allocate more dry / cure time to.
It depends on the type of cabinetry but it would work for a lot of them. A solid combo for cabinets would be to sand them, prime them with fresh start, then use Advance for your top coats.
Zinsser makes a wide variety of primers so it’s hard to say. Fresh Start has a lot of great uses and I’d rather use it vs BIN but sometimes you gotta use BIN
Thanks Jeremy, appreciate the review! Would you recommend this for a base coat on T&G PVC in a bathroom? I'm tying to figure out the best approach for durability and will pre-coating the boards before installation. Should I coat with Fresh Start or Stix, followed by a topcoat, or go to an exterior paint like Regal Select? Will rolling or spraying be better for durability? Again, Really appreciate the insights from your reviews and tips!
So if it’s a PVC material you generally don’t have to prime it. You could just apply 2 coats of your trim paint to it. I’d recommend something like emerald urethane from Sherwin Williams or Advance from Benjamin Moore
Hi Jeremy. Quick question. I have a stained fiberglass door that is pretty beat up. If I use fresh start as a primer, would I need to sand the old stain off? Would a light sanding do? Great video. Thanks.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thank you. I am an artist. I am creating several birch panels and I need the surface to be as smooth as possible almost like paper. I am doing acrylic paintings and they are very large scale. I’d prefer not to use gesso which goes on with several coats and a lot of sanding to get that smooth surface. So I need to do two or three coats.
Sometimes Home Depot sells those big gallons of Kilz 2 for a decent price, but I've been wondering if those can be used as regular primer since they are all purpose and also act as sealers? Is it okay to use primers with sealing properties for regular use?
Want to know what paints to buy? Click here: www.paintyourhomenow.com/interior-paint-buyingguide
Stellar, thanks!
You are most welcome! Thanks for watching!
Always enjoy the videos. I'd be interested in seeing something about the painting business itself i.e. how to start one, start-up costs, pricing the jobs, setting customer expectations, etc. Thank you.
I shall take that into consideration good sir. I am working on making more videos more frequently so hopefully I’ll get to it soon.
Yessss...used fresh start primer from Benjamin moore years back it was awesome
It’s quite a versatile primer 🤙
Use it everyday great primer ive even had it block red wood before ! ( not always ) Which usually needs oil primed
It’s my current favorite multi-purpose primer. I’ve always got a can in my truck 🤙
LOVE, LOVE, LOVE your channel! Very informative and delightfully entertaining. My question is, what is the best way to remove a brass kick plate from a medal front entry door that is glued and not magnetic attached? The door is glossy black. I am changing it to SW Iron Ore with brush nickel door handles and keypad deadbolt keyless top lock. Also, it has a brass door knocker above the peep hole. Thank you so very much. 😊
I’m glad you’re finding the channel useful! Usually the kick plate is either glued, screwed, or magnetic. Sometimes it’s a combo. If there are screws then remove them with the appropriate screwdriver. If it’s glued then I use a spackle blade / mudding knife to scrape the kick plate off. Once you get back behind the glue it’s pretty easy to pry it off.
@SuperVassarBrothers Thank you so very much for your prompt response. I will follow through. Watching your video on SW Emerald Trim paint and why you strongly recommend it. Keep your great
procast coming.
It’s a very nice primer, but it’s pricey 😅 to repeint my home I use Ultra spec 500, a basic primer because I don’t have particular need except don’t see the little repair flash under the paint. I paint with Ben paint, this primer is moore expensive than the paint. But I use it to prime my wood kitchen cart and a Wood Plank on the media unit, it’s very nice!
That’s the way to do it. You don’t need to use it for basic priming like you’re describing. It’s a great specialty primer for a lot of other applications.
Thanks for making this video. I'm about to paint my varnished hand rails and banister so it's good to know Fresh Start works just as good as BIN for that. Which sheen did you use a Flat, Eggshell or Satin with the Ben Moore Advance for this application?
I used semi gloss for the advance. Satin would be the lowest I would go for that application.make sure you give the surface a good sand with 150 before you prime. That’ll help fresh start get a good bond to the surface.
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thank you good sir!
Two questions re using primer.... if you are covering previously stained wood, are you looking for a uniform white color by using more than 1 primer coat? Also, if you do multiple coats, do you lightly sand between prime coats or only before the top coats? Thank you.
I’m just trying to get a decent coat of primer in the stained surface. It doesn’t need to be uniform in color. Doing more than one coat of primer is generally unnecessary. I get the uniform coloring by doing multiple top coats. I’ll sand before I prime, then in between topcoats if necessary.
Hi Jeremy, What is your recommended primer for rusted steel furniture? KILZ 3 Premium Interior/Exterior Multi-purpose Water-based Wall and Ceiling Primer or Rust-oleum primer spray? I am striving to refurbish a Room & Board steel desk. Thanks.
I’d make sure to sand down the surface so it’s as smooth as possible. I’d probably go with the Rust-oleum on that one. I’m not sure the Kilz 3 would give you a good bond to that surface but I’ve got limited experience with those products and the application you’re talking about. Take that for what you will and good luck with your project!
changing bunk beds from navy to white - sanded well and used my wagner to spray this amazing primer. How long would you let it cure before coating with Advance? I expect lots of wear and tear and want the best possible process for good durability. Thanks!
You’ll be good to start coating with advance right now. Once you get it coated with advance then I’d let it cure for at least 72 hours before trying to use it. Advance has a long cure time, so that’s the important one to allocate more dry / cure time to.
@@SuperVassarBrothers great! thank you so much.
Would this work for kitchen cabinets? Thanks for your help.
It depends on the type of cabinetry but it would work for a lot of them. A solid combo for cabinets would be to sand them, prime them with fresh start, then use Advance for your top coats.
Hey Jeremy, awesome video man, would you rather this over the Zinner primer
Zinsser makes a wide variety of primers so it’s hard to say. Fresh Start has a lot of great uses and I’d rather use it vs BIN but sometimes you gotta use BIN
Thanks Jeremy, appreciate the review! Would you recommend this for a base coat on T&G PVC in a bathroom? I'm tying to figure out the best approach for durability and will pre-coating the boards before installation. Should I coat with Fresh Start or Stix, followed by a topcoat, or go to an exterior paint like Regal Select? Will rolling or spraying be better for durability? Again, Really appreciate the insights from your reviews and tips!
So if it’s a PVC material you generally don’t have to prime it. You could just apply 2 coats of your trim paint to it. I’d recommend something like emerald urethane from Sherwin Williams or Advance from Benjamin Moore
Hi Jeremy. Quick question. I have a stained fiberglass door that is pretty beat up. If I use fresh start as a primer, would I need to sand the old stain off? Would a light sanding do? Great video. Thanks.
Just give it a light sand with 150 or 220 then hit it with fresh start. That door I showed in the video was super beat and it turned out really nice 🤙
Does it dry flat? How easily does it sand? I tried sanding kills recently and it just gummed up.
The paint is flat so that’s how it dries. I’m not sure why you’d be sanding it, but it would be different than Kilz.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thank you. I am an artist. I am creating several birch panels and I need the surface to be as smooth as possible almost like paper. I am doing acrylic paintings and they are very large scale. I’d prefer not to use gesso which goes on with several coats and a lot of sanding to get that smooth surface. So I need to do two or three coats.
My kitchen has semi gloss paint on the walls,Iam going to paint flat over it should I sand the walls before I paint them?
It’s not a bad idea to sand the walls with 100 or 150 grit. The 360 sanding disks on an extension pole are nice. You can also hand sand it.
Sometimes Home Depot sells those big gallons of Kilz 2 for a decent price, but I've been wondering if those can be used as regular primer since they are all purpose and also act as sealers? Is it okay to use primers with sealing properties for regular use?
For sure it is. It might be a bit overkill for some applications but it’ll still work well.
Would it work for old paneling?
I’d give it an 80% chance of working. You may get some bleed through on some of the darker spots, but it’s worth a shot in my opinion.