Great video. If I just had some screw holes to fill with drywall mud do you think I still need to prime them or can I just do two coats of paint and be OK?
Depends on the type of product and sheen you are using. A lot of wall paints that claim to be paint and primer in one will cause spackle spots to flash through. For the best results I’d recommend priming
Yes we think we are the best in the USA :). For recoat time its listed on the side of the can. Usually 4 hours. Sometimes we push it and will recoat after 2 hours.
Thanks for the videos. They are very helpful and I am learning a lot about painting. For priming new drywall do you always use the drywall primer from Sherman Williams? I trying to decide between Drywall primer and multipurpose primer from Sherman Williams for 4000 SF of walls/ceilings. Again, Thank you and keep on the good work.
There are a lot of primers that would work for new drywall. If you’re priming that much square footage then you may want to look into getting some PVA primer. Sherwin Williams has their version but you can get it at most places that sell paint. It’s sold in 5 gallon buckets and is super cheap. That’s what we use when we’re doing a lot of priming over new drywall.
Great content, as always! You obviously chose not to texture-match the spackle work before priming... will a 3/8 or 1/2 nap leave enough of a texture for a seamless finish over the spackling after the final color coat?
In most cases we do two top coats. The repaired area gets rolled 3 times. One prime coat and two finish coats. That’s usually enough to re-texture the area effectively. “Seamless” is subjective. We get the results we’re looking for with our process. I suppose you could spend more time trying to re-texture but that’s up to you.
I prefer doing the painting after the flooring goes in. A lot of the time there’s new baseboard or shoe molding installed after the floor goes in which needs to be painted. I’ve also had a lot of experience doing it this way so I’m use to it.
Most primers will work with drywall. Drywall primer tends to be the cheapest. If we’re priming whole walls we usually use something like a multi-purpose primer. Here’s a video that you may find helpful th-cam.com/video/mEUZaXQpx2g/w-d-xo.html
Also, I do not know about you, but I am trying to avoid the brush as much as possible (practice shows that roller puts a better coat). Ever thought of using a special roller (that has an edger mounted on it) for cutting in?
It really depends on the product you’re laying down. Those roller edgers like the accubrush are hot garbage. There is a reason that professionals use a combination or brush and roller or spray.
@@SuperVassarBrothers And that tool works perfectly for corners. images.thdstatic.com/productImages/476192c4-3b31-4c56-9634-7249644fb58d/svn/pro-edge-paint-edgers-hd-pd-7002-c3_600.jpg
You can pour into the primer some amount of the paint. That way during priming you will get some sort of a preliminar view on what the paint will look like on the wall :)
If you’re going to go that route then just get the primer tinted to the paint color at the store. We almost always do 2 coats so it’s not a big deal for us to use white primer.
I haven't had much experience with the ProMar primer. We use the Drywall Primer often and it works great for priming drywall and spackle spots. I would assume that the ProMar primer would be similar. It's just a basic primer and would work well for all the things that the drywall primer would be good for. A lot of Sherwin Williams primers are similar.
New drywall and any spackled areas should be primed. We only prime the walls when there's a big color change. So if the walls are a dark color, and you're changing them to a much lighter color then it's usually a good idea to prime the walls with a white primer. This will cut down on the amount of top coats you will need to do. The reverse is also true. If you're going from a light color to a dark color then you may want to use a gray primer on the walls. This will also save you from having to do too many top coats with your finish paint.
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I keep a roll of Press & Seal with my paint supplies. It's the best! I've actually left a roller for months that was still usable!
Press and seal works well too! I’m more of a cling wrap guy, but both work great!
This is great! I love the music also.
Thanks for watching! I hope it was useful 🤙
digging the light bulb
Thanks David. Our clients always comment on them too. Crowd favorite : )
😆 lol when you said keep it nice & wet 🤣 the red sticker 🤣 above said : that's what she said 🤣 hahahaha!!!!
Glad we could provide a laugh Brenda. :)
Great video. If I just had some screw holes to fill with drywall mud do you think I still need to prime them or can I just do two coats of paint and be OK?
Depends on the type of product and sheen you are using. A lot of wall paints that claim to be paint and primer in one will cause spackle spots to flash through. For the best results I’d recommend priming
How much time do you let the drywall primer to start the painting? You are the best guy in usa ! I love your job
Yes we think we are the best in the USA :). For recoat time its listed on the side of the can. Usually 4 hours. Sometimes we push it and will recoat after 2 hours.
Thanks for the videos. They are very helpful and I am learning a lot about painting. For priming new drywall do you always use the drywall primer from Sherman Williams? I trying to decide between Drywall primer and multipurpose primer from Sherman Williams for 4000 SF of walls/ceilings. Again, Thank you and keep on the good work.
There are a lot of primers that would work for new drywall. If you’re priming that much square footage then you may want to look into getting some PVA primer. Sherwin Williams has their version but you can get it at most places that sell paint. It’s sold in 5 gallon buckets and is super cheap. That’s what we use when we’re doing a lot of priming over new drywall.
Great content, as always! You obviously chose not to texture-match the spackle work before priming... will a 3/8 or 1/2 nap leave enough of a texture for a seamless finish over the spackling after the final color coat?
In most cases we do two top coats. The repaired area gets rolled 3 times. One prime coat and two finish coats. That’s usually enough to re-texture the area effectively.
“Seamless” is subjective. We get the results we’re looking for with our process. I suppose you could spend more time trying to re-texture but that’s up to you.
Can you do a short spot priming video?
I will add it to the list!
Do you need to sand inbetween coats of paint on walls. Of so. What best to use. When doing manual by hand
It’s better to sand before doing top coats. We like using a sanding disk on an extension pole. If you’re doing it by hand I’d use 100 or 150 grit
@@SuperVassarBrothers thank you. Is it a must. To Sand ? Also how get the dust off the walls ?
You reccomend painting trim and walls before or after new flooring install ?
I prefer doing the painting after the flooring goes in. A lot of the time there’s new baseboard or shoe molding installed after the floor goes in which needs to be painted. I’ve also had a lot of experience doing it this way so I’m use to it.
So do you have to use specifically drywall primer over spackle? And is that the same primer you used over the entire wall?
Most primers will work with drywall. Drywall primer tends to be the cheapest. If we’re priming whole walls we usually use something like a multi-purpose primer. Here’s a video that you may find helpful
th-cam.com/video/mEUZaXQpx2g/w-d-xo.html
Do you remove any masking tape after priming or after top coat?
After all the top coats have been applied
Also, I do not know about you, but I am trying to avoid the brush as much as possible (practice shows that roller puts a better coat). Ever thought of using a special roller (that has an edger mounted on it) for cutting in?
It really depends on the product you’re laying down. Those roller edgers like the accubrush are hot garbage. There is a reason that professionals use a combination or brush and roller or spray.
@@SuperVassarBrothers And that tool works perfectly for corners. images.thdstatic.com/productImages/476192c4-3b31-4c56-9634-7249644fb58d/svn/pro-edge-paint-edgers-hd-pd-7002-c3_600.jpg
You can pour into the primer some amount of the paint. That way during priming you will get some sort of a preliminar view on what the paint will look like on the wall :)
If you’re going to go that route then just get the primer tinted to the paint color at the store. We almost always do 2 coats so it’s not a big deal for us to use white primer.
Is ProMar Primer comparable to SW Drywall Primer?
I haven't had much experience with the ProMar primer. We use the Drywall Primer often and it works great for priming drywall and spackle spots. I would assume that the ProMar primer would be similar. It's just a basic primer and would work well for all the things that the drywall primer would be good for. A lot of Sherwin Williams primers are similar.
How to decide if you need a coat of prime or not?
New drywall and any spackled areas should be primed. We only prime the walls when there's a big color change. So if the walls are a dark color, and you're changing them to a much lighter color then it's usually a good idea to prime the walls with a white primer. This will cut down on the amount of top coats you will need to do. The reverse is also true. If you're going from a light color to a dark color then you may want to use a gray primer on the walls. This will also save you from having to do too many top coats with your finish paint.
My saran wraped brush stayed wet for over 2 weeks 😄 Don't try that at home, kids!
It happens. I’ve got several brushes in need of my attention currently 😬