Jose! You did it again! You are the only one in TH-cam who clearly describe and show how to use CRC cleaner on M278 engine. I have been searching/asking for years with no luck. Thanks a lot for your time and for this clear video. Keep up to good work. The only difficult task is that spraying half of the bottle to one side and other half to other side. It is kind of difficult to feel that we reached to half of the bottle. I am looking forward to seeing your next videos. I hope you will show us replacing thermostat and water pump on this engine. Another tough job is replacing turbo cooling hoses.
@@lawrenceralph7481 thank you so much for your comment. I didn’t really check the valves before or after. I just know the product works after years of application. I have used it in many different cars, and so have other subscribers that asked how to use it on an M278 engine. So basically it’s just experience and trust with the product.
Thank you Jose! I’ll work on mine this weekend with the same exact product. It seems very straight forward. I like your ingenious contraption as the air going to the engine remains filtered with the filter box.
As somebody else said, there is no other video like this one, I have been looking for this for a long time. Your videos have helped me so much. You have great tutorials. Thank you for taking the time in doing this videos. Can you please make a video on how to bleed the brakes? Thank you.
Hey Jose, I saw a video of many Mercedes M157/M278 owners removing Oil Control Solenoid (valve). Which is used by Mercedes to reduce the oil pressure to the engine to improve MPG. After removing, many noticed significant improvement in engine performance (better idling, smooth gear shift, quieter engine and faster oil temp at cold starts). Despite removing the Oil control solenoid, it still limits the oil pressure to maximum of 60psi (which means, that removing it wont disrupt the oil supply by uneven flow). I couldn't find any negative to remove the connector. However, I am not an expert with such things. There are numerous forums and videos about people doing it. And also some studies of people monitoring oil flow and found detaching it to be better for engine. All the things mentioned are from different forums and sources and not my own. In theory, quicker oil flow at higher psi without valve to the engine equals better performance, more lubrication maybe slightly worse MPG. Its safe as it still limits oil flow (at a higher psi) without oil control valve. In my opinion, worth it. You input will be appreciated. th-cam.com/video/MuZJSGN8qZ4/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much for your comment. What I think of the subject? In my personal opinion... I really do not think they put that pump there just for emissions. Without the solenoid you are disabling the pump to control the pressure that goes to the engine, and if you are in a cold place, in a cold start you may be wearing the engine faster and the viscosity of the oil will go down quicker, so I think oil changes should be done much more frequently if this procedure is done. I also think that if you see a difference in performance is because something else is wrong in the engine, I don't think it happens with a good engine. But I guess we would have to see if somebody with a brand new, good engine did it and see what happened. If you ever get another issue inside your engine and you have full pressure the entire time, I think you would cause more issues. You can't compare an older pump with the new design, so you can't question why engines didn't have the solenoid before. The pump it self has a pressure relieve valve set to 60psi, you are right. This is a mechanical safety. So when the pressure gets to that point it will release the excess pressure. So long story short, I trust the engineering involved with the pump. I would not change a thing, but this is just my opinion. As the guy says on that video you send me, it all depends on what you want to do.
@@josecitomarin Your videos speak for yourself! There is too much technology for someone like me to fiddle around. Btw I have the same color on my sclass as yours :)
Great video, The easiest way is to use the berrymans kit and plug it right into the pvc port directly in the center right behind the ecu. It you prefer the crc product, hook it up in the same area. Its the most direct path to what needs cleaning vs coating the intake pipes. I was very happy with the results on a 157 with 72k. It will smoke and misfire once or twice upon takeoff and then clean up. It won't be as good as walnuts, but there is something to be said if these products are used every 15k or so from the start.
Thank you so much for your comment. I like your idea. Please take a look at my second video and tell me what you think. Here is the link. th-cam.com/video/gFzm_VA80x8/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
Hey man waiting to get my 2010 S550 face lifted version wotu the 5.5 naturally aspirated and wonding if i should do this and is the procedure any different?
Thank you so much for your comment. With yours is a little different because you have a MASS air flow (MAF) sensor. But you can take the MAF sensor out and then spray right there. While the MAF is out, clean that too with a MAF sensor cleaner. If you need more help doing that email me and I’ll help you further. You can also use the online manual alldata diy. You can get all of the info you need for any repairs and maintenance on your car. I have a link on my channel
Could you just drill holes in the existing tubes, (obviously remove not to get particles inside the engine) spray through the holes and plug them afterward? Great video however, I had this done to my Alfa and Cayanne and it is not cheap. Made a huge difference in throttle smoothness and response.
Any harm in just sliding the canister tubes into the turbos? Has a bit of extra air coming though but makes the procedure a lot easier. Seems like you could loosen the back clip just enough to slide in the tube and then tighten them back down a bit. A great video idea would be coving the w222 maintenance intervals with your honest opinion. Anyways thanks for all the great content!
Thank you so much for your comment. I believe you can just spray into the turbos. I just wanted to have an operating system that is running as normal as possible. Thank you so much for the video idea.
Please share your opinion about this ideal as describe in the video I have shared, and consider doing a video. You make things much easier with your communications skills and techniques, so I'm sure others as well would appreciate your insight as a professional technician. I have run across several videos and forums that mention this as a positive change to do on the (m278) and (m157) engines. Please share your thoughts. Here is a quote from one of the posts. "I know several mercedes techs, some with 25+ years experience. ALL of the mercedes certified mechanics I know say to disconnect the solenoid. I could go on and on about why doing this improves the lifespan and performance of the engine but it's been said and covered. I've personally seen engines ruined by the oil restrictive solenoid going bad and locking out in a semi closed position. Regular oil changes, good routine maintenance and disconnect that solenoid brother. Cap it off, as well as the connector. Zip-tie or clamp the harness out of the way after disconnecting." th-cam.com/video/MuZJSGN8qZ4/w-d-xo.html
Update. Sprayed crc, the sound and feel changed considerably. Is this possible? Engine seems to have throaty exhaust, faster Acceleration, and a slight rumble inside the cab
Thank you so much for your comments Troy. I was going to suggest to spray first. I’m glad you did. It could be that you had some carbon build up. Did they say if you have a misfire and which cylinder?
This doesn't do much, it has to run through the turbos, then the intercooler then the intake manifold before it hits the valves. You'd have a better chance using the map sensor port.
I have a 2016 Sonata hybrid like this. Thankfully the newer ones have GDI/Port injection. Even using this spray, I have the BG service done every 12-18 months. I iave before/after BG photos that went from carbon covered to where i could see the piston head markings from the factory. 👍 172,000 miles so far, no issues. Even have the factory brake pads. ! The method I do this now is I installed an oil catch can years ago (as these people should) and I spray this or Seafoam in the hose going into the intake. I had mechanics tell me it worked better into the intake than the throttle body. 👍 It gets the back of the valves better-in theory.
Hi Jose. This may very well be the beginning of the end for that engine. The last thing that you want is carbon flaking off of your valves from the "cleaning procedure" and entering the combustion chamber... The carbon may likely become embedded in the top ring land and over time can badly score the liners. These are huge chunks of carbon on these valves, not just sintered carbon dust like you would have on a port injected or carbureted engine. Also carbon may pass through the engine become embedded in and damage the catalytic converters. This made up repair procedure from snake oil manufacturer is highly NOT RECOMMENDED. Remove the intake and clean the valves properly. It is the only way to do it. This is absolutely the worst advice I have ever seen given for any engine. Also everything goes through the two charge air pipes into the ONE heat exchanger on this engine... Anyway Not good advice at all in my opinion as a ex Mercedes-Benz factory rep.
Thank you so much for your comment. I appreciate your input on this. You are correct, the best way to clean the valves is taking the intake out. I may work on it one of this days. I just have another video I have to upload on spraying the valves then ill probably work on removing it to see how we are doing.
you're partially correct but mostly not correct.....where is the images of the valves before and after the cleaning to prove it actually does anything at all.
Tha k you so much for your comment. Yeah it’s a bit difficult to get those images. The whole idea of spraying the valves is so that you don’t have to remove all the parts that need to be removed. If you are going to remove the parts may as well do a walnut cleaning. I am not 100% sure how his method or even the other method I show in my other video works, but on both my videos I show the way to deliver the cleaner to the valves as some of my subscribers asked for.
@@josecitomarinif you look at other videos where people have tested these cleaners they don’t really do a good job at removing existing carbon build up.
Best Carbon Buildup Cleaner for Engines, Berryman vs SeaFoam vs Motor Power vs CRC GDI th-cam.com/video/JgcZQqeFiu8/w-d-xo.html Video compares 5 valve cleaners. Best - Berryman Intake valve and combustion chamber cleaner, while CRC was terrible at removing carbon.
Thank you so much for sharing. I don’t really think it’s a fear test or even a “real test”. We don’t know how bad each one of the parts were. So to prove something like that it would have to be with many different parts, many times done over and over again and then come up to a conclusion like that.
Jose! You did it again! You are the only one in TH-cam who clearly describe and show how to use CRC cleaner on M278 engine. I have been searching/asking for years with no luck. Thanks a lot for your time and for this clear video. Keep up to good work. The only difficult task is that spraying half of the bottle to one side and other half to other side. It is kind of difficult to feel that we reached to half of the bottle. I am looking forward to seeing your next videos. I hope you will show us replacing thermostat and water pump on this engine. Another tough job is replacing turbo cooling hoses.
Thank you so much. I have not seen any videos on this either. I will definitely make a video on everything that comes along the way.
How do you verify that this process worked? Bore scope before and after?
@@lawrenceralph7481 thank you so much for your comment. I didn’t really check the valves before or after. I just know the product works after years of application. I have used it in many different cars, and so have other subscribers that asked how to use it on an M278 engine. So basically it’s just experience and trust with the product.
Thank you Jose! I’ll work on mine this weekend with the same exact product. It seems very straight forward. I like your ingenious contraption as the air going to the engine remains filtered with the filter box.
No problem. I know you have been waiting for a long time for this. Let me know how it goes. Thank you so much.
Thank you from the middle east... You are the best. I have a w166 turbo engine.
Hello. Thank you so much.
As somebody else said, there is no other video like this one, I have been looking for this for a long time. Your videos have helped me so much. You have great tutorials. Thank you for taking the time in doing this videos.
Can you please make a video on how to bleed the brakes? Thank you.
Thank you so much. I’m glad my videos are helping
Another excellent video! Don't forget that you also need to keep your valves clean by the "Italian tune-up"!
Thank you so much. I do enjoy and perform Italian tuneups as often as I can :)
I followed these steps and did this service on my S class! Noticed an immediate difference in performance! Great work
As long as we keep doing the maintenance with our cars they will be nice to us.
Hey Jose, I saw a video of many Mercedes M157/M278 owners removing Oil Control Solenoid (valve). Which is used by Mercedes to reduce the oil pressure to the engine to improve MPG.
After removing, many noticed significant improvement in engine performance (better idling, smooth gear shift, quieter engine and faster oil temp at cold starts).
Despite removing the Oil control solenoid, it still limits the oil pressure to maximum of 60psi (which means, that removing it wont disrupt the oil supply by uneven flow). I couldn't find any negative to remove the connector.
However, I am not an expert with such things. There are numerous forums and videos about people doing it. And also some studies of people monitoring oil flow and found detaching it to be better for engine. All the things mentioned are from different forums and sources and not my own.
In theory, quicker oil flow at higher psi without valve to the engine equals better performance, more lubrication maybe slightly worse MPG. Its safe as it still limits oil flow (at a higher psi) without oil control valve.
In my opinion, worth it. You input will be appreciated.
th-cam.com/video/MuZJSGN8qZ4/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much for your comment. What I think of the subject? In my personal opinion...
I really do not think they put that pump there just for emissions. Without the solenoid you are disabling the pump to control the pressure that goes to the engine, and if you are in a cold place, in a cold start you may be wearing the engine faster and the viscosity of the oil will go down quicker, so I think oil changes should be done much more frequently if this procedure is done.
I also think that if you see a difference in performance is because something else is wrong in the engine, I don't think it happens with a good engine. But I guess we would have to see if somebody with a brand new, good engine did it and see what happened.
If you ever get another issue inside your engine and you have full pressure the entire time, I think you would cause more issues. You can't compare an older pump with the new design, so you can't question why engines didn't have the solenoid before.
The pump it self has a pressure relieve valve set to 60psi, you are right. This is a mechanical safety. So when the pressure gets to that point it will release the excess pressure.
So long story short, I trust the engineering involved with the pump. I would not change a thing, but this is just my opinion. As the guy says on that video you send me, it all depends on what you want to do.
@@josecitomarin Thank you for your insight. I guess I will leave mine as factory.
@@waleedkhalid4624 thank you for your trust. I am not an expert or an engineer, but I have been working on my own cars for more than 20 years
@@josecitomarin Your videos speak for yourself! There is too much technology for someone like me to fiddle around.
Btw I have the same color on my sclass as yours :)
@@waleedkhalid4624 thank you. I have only seen one car with my color, that is great. Le me see some pics!
Outstanding. I have been wondering how to complete this process. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for your comment. Wait for another video I’m working on before you do it.
Absolutely, will do
Great video, The easiest way is to use the berrymans kit and plug it right into the pvc port directly in the center right behind the ecu. It you prefer the crc product, hook it up in the same area. Its the most direct path to what needs cleaning vs coating the intake pipes. I was very happy with the results on a 157 with 72k. It will smoke and misfire once or twice upon takeoff and then clean up. It won't be as good as walnuts, but there is something to be said if these products are used every 15k or so from the start.
Thank you so much for your comment. I like your idea. Please take a look at my second video and tell me what you think.
Here is the link.
th-cam.com/video/gFzm_VA80x8/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
I want you to show me how to replace the turbo coolant.
Here is the link for that video. th-cam.com/video/mDfTtIkiK10/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
@@josecitomarin Thank you dear friend. I wish you all the best.
@@mikebenz2448 thank you so much
@@mikebenz2448thank you so much
Don't both turbos feed into a common intercooler? Wouldn't spraying into one pipe still distribute to all cylinders?
Thank you so much for your comment. You are correct. But you are also cleaning the lines and the turbos.
@@josecitomarin Makes sense. Does the engine oil need to be changed after this procedure?
@@Moldyvoldym not at all. They don’t mix
Hey man waiting to get my 2010 S550 face lifted version wotu the 5.5 naturally aspirated and wonding if i should do this and is the procedure any different?
Thank you so much for your comment. With yours is a little different because you have a MASS air flow (MAF) sensor. But you can take the MAF sensor out and then spray right there. While the MAF is out, clean that too with a MAF sensor cleaner. If you need more help doing that email me and I’ll help you further. You can also use the online manual alldata diy. You can get all of the info you need for any repairs and maintenance on your car. I have a link on my channel
@josecitomarin awesome man, thank you so very much. Appreciate the rapid response. I'll check out the link bud
@@carloscastiano anytime. Yeah check the link. If you use that link you’ll get a discount
Could you just drill holes in the existing tubes, (obviously remove not to get particles inside the engine) spray through the holes and plug them afterward? Great video however, I had this done to my Alfa and Cayanne and it is not cheap. Made a huge difference in throttle smoothness and response.
Hey Andy. I would worry about leaving plugs there that may or may not be aspirated into the engine
@ thought about that, found a plug that would work, has a under clip to widen the surface area. I’m just lazy😀
@ try the other way I did it in my other video
Any harm in just sliding the canister tubes into the turbos? Has a bit of extra air coming though but makes the procedure a lot easier. Seems like you could loosen the back clip just enough to slide in the tube and then tighten them back down a bit.
A great video idea would be coving the w222 maintenance intervals with your honest opinion.
Anyways thanks for all the great content!
Thank you so much for your comment. I believe you can just spray into the turbos. I just wanted to have an operating system that is running as normal as possible. Thank you so much for the video idea.
Please share your opinion about this ideal as describe in the video I have shared, and consider doing a video. You make things much easier with your communications skills and techniques, so I'm sure others as well would appreciate your insight as a professional technician. I have run across several videos and forums that mention this as a positive change to do on the (m278) and (m157) engines. Please share your thoughts. Here is a quote from one of the posts.
"I know several mercedes techs, some with 25+ years experience. ALL of the mercedes certified mechanics I know say to disconnect the solenoid. I could go on and on about why doing this improves the lifespan and performance of the engine but it's been said and covered. I've personally seen engines ruined by the oil restrictive solenoid going bad and locking out in a semi closed position. Regular oil changes, good routine maintenance and disconnect that solenoid brother. Cap it off, as well as the connector. Zip-tie or clamp the harness out of the way after disconnecting."
th-cam.com/video/MuZJSGN8qZ4/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much for your comment. If you read on the previous comments you will actually see my thoughts on the same video
I have a 14 ML550, and ive been told it needs valve repair. P0305. & Leak test
Im now wondering it is just DI carbon.
Update. Sprayed crc, the sound and feel changed considerably. Is this possible? Engine seems to have throaty exhaust, faster Acceleration, and a slight rumble inside the cab
Thank you so much for your comments Troy. I was going to suggest to spray first. I’m glad you did. It could be that you had some carbon build up. Did they say if you have a misfire and which cylinder?
This doesn't do much, it has to run through the turbos, then the intercooler then the intake manifold before it hits the valves. You'd have a better chance using the map sensor port.
Thank you so much for your comment. I have an even better suggestion than that. I am working on another video. Stay tuned.
@@josecitomarin that's awesome but I'll just do the map or completely remove the manifold and touch them.
@@blinx197 which map sensor? The one under the ECU? My other method sends the chemical almost directly to the valves.
@@josecitomarin yes, the one under the ECU.
@@blinx197 okay let me know how it goes
You can also disconnect the vacuum like going to the brake booster and do it there
Thank you so much for your comment Dave. I appreciate your recommendation
I have a 2016 Sonata hybrid like this.
Thankfully the newer ones have GDI/Port injection.
Even using this spray, I have the BG service done every 12-18 months. I iave before/after BG photos that went from carbon covered to where i could see the piston head markings from the factory. 👍
172,000 miles so far, no issues. Even have the factory brake pads. !
The method I do this now is I installed an oil catch can years ago (as these people should) and I spray this or Seafoam in the hose going into the intake. I
had mechanics tell me it worked better into the intake than the throttle body. 👍 It gets the back of the valves better-in theory.
Thank you so much for your comment.
Thank is awesome. Thank you for sharing
The spray in cleaner doesn't work. The only real way is to take off the intake manifold and walnut blast or use a pick and scrape it off.
Thank you so much for your comment. It definitely is the best way.
Hi Jose. This may very well be the beginning of the end for that engine. The last thing that you want is carbon flaking off of your valves from the "cleaning procedure" and entering the combustion chamber... The carbon may likely become embedded in the top ring land and over time can badly score the liners. These are huge chunks of carbon on these valves, not just sintered carbon dust like you would have on a port injected or carbureted engine. Also carbon may pass through the engine become embedded in and damage the catalytic converters. This made up repair procedure from snake oil manufacturer is highly NOT RECOMMENDED. Remove the intake and clean the valves properly. It is the only way to do it. This is absolutely the worst advice I have ever seen given for any engine. Also everything goes through the two charge air pipes into the ONE heat exchanger on this engine... Anyway Not good advice at all in my opinion as a ex Mercedes-Benz factory rep.
Thank you so much for your comment. I appreciate your input on this. You are correct, the best way to clean the valves is taking the intake out. I may work on it one of this days. I just have another video I have to upload on spraying the valves then ill probably work on removing it to see how we are doing.
I disagree, if you use this as a maintenance product every oil change or so it should do a great job at potentially keeping the valves clean.
@ thank you so much for your comment and sharing your thoughts
you're partially correct but mostly not correct.....where is the images of the valves before and after the cleaning to prove it actually does anything at all.
Tha k you so much for your comment. Yeah it’s a bit difficult to get those images. The whole idea of spraying the valves is so that you don’t have to remove all the parts that need to be removed. If you are going to remove the parts may as well do a walnut cleaning. I am not 100% sure how his method or even the other method I show in my other video works, but on both my videos I show the way to deliver the cleaner to the valves as some of my subscribers asked for.
@@josecitomarinif you look at other videos where people have tested these cleaners they don’t really do a good job at removing existing carbon build up.
I'm
K iu 😊
Best Carbon Buildup Cleaner for Engines, Berryman vs SeaFoam vs Motor Power vs CRC GDI th-cam.com/video/JgcZQqeFiu8/w-d-xo.html Video compares 5 valve cleaners. Best - Berryman Intake valve and combustion chamber cleaner, while CRC was terrible at removing carbon.
Thank you so much for sharing. I don’t really think it’s a fear test or even a “real test”. We don’t know how bad each one of the parts were. So to prove something like that it would have to be with many different parts, many times done over and over again and then come up to a conclusion like that.