You have saved me so much money and aggravation. Being a new homeowner I don’t have a ton of spare money and I have to make sure that all the tools I get to take care of my home are the best. Thank you so much for all the informative videos!
No he's not because we're stealing him for the UK! Seriously, one of my absolutely favourite channels out there! I've used PF's results to buy a few tools and consumables now and never been disappointed!
As a former auto technician, my preference is Norma. BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Audi, and VW are factory equipped with them. They do far less damage to the hose than the slotted brands. After a period of time, most slotted clamps have a tendency to cut into the hose. The hose protrudes through the slots which can make them difficult to remove. Normas work great and you don’t have those problems. Great job, Todd!
The aikihisa or whatever band clamp type should outperform any of the other worm gear drives for pressure. If you have the right size and can afford those type of clamps they surpass any of the tested ones with worm drive... On very old cars 1970..1980 those where used in all sizes with slot screws, they just vanish because of costs and plastic pipes under the rubber to clamp on
I swear older Volvos used norma clamps or ones that looked just like them. I had an s40 turbo that I scrapped but I pulled a bunch of random stuff from the car just to hoard, including the hose clamps from coolant hoses and intercooler piping. They've come in handy a ton of times
Rather than buying the expensive 'automotive' low quality plated steel clamps with ordinary steel screw that rusts, I simply go into the plumbing department and buy the low priced all stainless steel clamps/screw made for continuous use under water on deep well water pumps...
I'm a small percentage of TH-camrs probably...senior citizen lady lives by herself. I have no idea what I'm doing! So I have to learn and research...I'm on such a low income when doing a project it has to last! This guy is totally awesome! He's the best of the best! Fixing heater car hoses. That's a lot of heat , a lot of pressure , a lot of weather elements , it really makes a difference on how long it will last when you're splicing 2 heater hoses which you clamp together! Will it leak. Will it rust. Will it hold the pressure. Thank you so very much for helping me! God bless u hun!
Yes he does great videos when looking for the best and reading your post you are the best too! A women who appreciates things and has interest and does things is gold. God bless you dear!
Project Farm knocking it out of the park yet again! Seriously, these are the absolute BEST tests on products I have ever seen! You have definitely influenced some of my purchases!
This video is a gold standard example of what informational videos can achieve. So much information is quickly and clearly delivered, all while staying pleasant and unbiased.
I'm a marine mechanic, and I thank you for showing me that my shop has been wasting money on inferior hose clamps. #2 (Breeze) in leak prevention is plenty good enough for our applications considering the clamps we've been buying come in the middle of the pack. At half the price we've been spending, the switch will be an easy sell to the boss. Also, supporting USA made products is always a plus in my book. So, once again you have given the best straight forward, well organized, and somehow extremely relevant information one can find. Thanks again! p.s. I would still love to see a comparison of battery powered leaf blowers! Cheers!
I also work in the Marine industry and we use the Scandvik ABA clamps. It's important that the slots aren't cut all the way through or they damage the hose, and more important for the marine industry is their superior corrosion resistance which these tests verfied.
Well done mate! I always avoid Chinese made products wherever possible, whatever the brand. We'll probably be at war with them within our lifetimes, so no point powering them now!
Well, I see we have a company engineer watching. That's a good thing and I think more company engineers should watch their product being real world tested by Project Farm. Great job as always.
I have been using Norma brand clamps for many years, another advantage they have over most other worm type clamps is that they don't use the perforated slot in the band for the worm drive but use the raised ribs for the worm to engage, the major advantage of this is the Norma band does not cut up hoses when they are tightened, the bands with the slots tend to cut up the hose, especially if you have the hose off and reinstall it a few times from doing repairs or even just the original intallation.
Yeah, that's over time proven, BMW in E34 from 1993 which I have used norma clamps, and rubber have shape of clamp after time, but none visible cuts into it
Of the hose clamps I've used, the Scandvik (ABA) Brand clamp is the one that won't damage the hose because its steel strip surface is flatter than the Nroma brand clamp
@@GuancunW I just installed 3 ABA hose clamps on the cooler line hose for a magnetic in-line external transmission filter. Yeah you can definitely feel the quality improvement - they are much stronger and don't damage the hose.
I bought a car that had those kinds of clamps someone put on it for the heater hoses a long time ago. Best clamps I've ever seen, I reused them. I found they can be tightened WAY tighter than a standard worm clamp and they don't strip out. I just bought a bunch for the radiator and heater hoses for when I put new hoses on my truck here pretty soon.
Great video but you missed one very important test. Temperature. This is why the constant tension clamps reign supreme in many applications, due their ability to adjust to changes in temperature like heater hoses that with temps that vary widely & constant tension clamps adjust on their own always keeping constant tension. For cold, static applications your tests are fine but you are missing a big reason every auto manufacturer switched to the more expensive but better constant tension style clamp.
Spring clamps are like the almost perfect woman, her flaw being you can't stand doing anything with her because she needs a specific tool to get off. And if she's in the wrong position or slightly bent, it doesn't work! I've never had a Breeze or Ideal clamp leak on a car, including my intercooler piping that exceeds 25psi and 250F.
the constant tension clamps are also better for clamping to plastic barbs, where over-clamping results in failure of the barb and under-clamping results in leaks.
@@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC I don't deny that they can be a nigthmare to remove. The removal tools help but I wish someone would re-engineer a better version, they all are kind of lousy
For most applications, I think the Breeze would be perfect. It's not too expensive, great corrosion resistance, and quite strong. Unless you need something beefier for a specific application, it should handle 99% of what you'll need it for.
The Koehler brand is almost half the cost of the Breeze brand and performs very close in most uses that it's designed for. If you need to wire something together, use steel wire, don't use a hose clamp.
I watch a lot of technical videos on this service and I have to state, as an engineer, that you covered and presented the subject matter thoroughly and yet still concise. Great pace and editing, I did not even have to put the speed settings to 2X. Good show and thank you.
I agree… I’d like to see a real world testing of hose clamps for turbo charger and supercharger intake systems. Which type are the best that hold up to up to 50psi boost after heat cycles without having to re-tighten. And also which type hold rubber couplers best and silicone best. And if you want to go the extra yard, do the same pressure tests with dry couplers on the pipes. And then add some oil to the connections and tighten the clamps to the same torque settings. This would emulate real world conditions the best.
Thank you for including Norma. I've been using them, many times I re-use 30+ years old clamps. Never ever had a leakage, or a thread damage issue with them. For conventional use, they are the best.
Thank you for the video. As a professional diesel tech, I constantly see the various hose clamps used in the wrong applications. You must use constant tension clamps for high thermal cycling hoses like charge air coolers. For silicone hose, you must use either lined worm drive or rounded band clamps, otherwise, the standard cheap clamps destroy the hose. More important is using the proper size clamps and torques for the hose, which, unfortunately, I didn't see displayed in the tests. I also apply anti-seize or spray oil into the worm drive mechanism for smooth tightening. Doing things wrong is why the best clamps leak at lower than cheap clamp pressures. I recommend Norma, Scandvik, Breeze, Waveseal (not featured) and Smartseal (not featured). Ideal clamps have tanked in quality.
agreed, wrong applications include....the experiement conditions displayed in the video sadly. Excellent scientific method applied, but unfortunatly when it comes to hose clamps, the barb style is just as important if not more. As a connector specialist (working side by side with your industry Dimich) we saw a lot of customers using "big and strong" clamps in simply unacceptable circumstances which results in a particular clamp type getting a bad reputation. Take silicone couplers typically used in boost charge pipes. Double wrapped worm drive constant tension are prefferable. But T-Bolt style clamps are often selected by customers, These often leak under the application as they pinch the hose near where the overlap occours in the clamp. But they look "big and strong" so customers buy them and ignore your advice, then come back and buy more because having 3 works better apparently.
@@Typingwithpaws And similar application and method problems with the spring clamp, of course. Wrapping vinyl tape around the clamping surface to make up for a too-large clamp that is going to be pressure tested would be almost laughable if it were any other channel. For this channel, it's just incredibly disappointing.
Yeah, I remember when Ideal made some pretty decent clamps, bought a ton of them years ago and when I ran out and bought new ones the difference was immediately obvious. I use Norma, Breeze, and Mishimoto clamps depending on application, which made me laugh when that's what he recommended at the end. Going to check out these Waveseal/Smartseal clamps you mentioned. I run through all sorts of clamps on my ag plane, using the right ones will last several years, using the wrong ones won't last a single flight.
I would've liked to see the ideal tridon smartseal tested as well, found some randomly at Advance auto parts and thought they looked interesting with the inner piece.
Great comment, I work in the auto cooling industry and hose clamps are never worth skimping on. Lol. And the right clamp for the right application is spot on correct! 👍
Something I would have really loved to have seen here was a re-visit of the first test, once failure load for the clamps had been established. Where instead of cranking them down to a consistent 30 in/lbs, they were tightened to ~80% of failure load or something like that, to give a better idea of how they'd work in use. You can really crank down on a good-quality one to get a lot better seal than you can on a cheap one! The "smoother" ones are very likely applying a whole lot more compression on the hose than the ones with more rough threads for a given torque.
I don't understand why you would want to 'really crank down'. Set the clip at the required torque, but don't over-tighten it. A good quality clip will put up with a lot of abuse, as will cheaper ones for a short while, but at the same time you're risking damaging the pipe/ hose you're clamping.
Hose clamps are really under appreciated and should be up there in the handy man's arsenal with duct tape and wd40, I have rigged so many things together with hose clamps from Halloween decorations to robots.
for me it is more zip ties, but the ones that you can release and reuse again. I do not understand why the reusable variant does not have totally taken over the market, you still see only the unopenables in the shops. Well... understandably so, with my 50 reusable I only bought once, never needed new ones (of that size). BAD for the seller.
LOVE your channel! As an engineer, I really appreciate the tangible hands on approach to evaluating products. Your transparency lets us make informed decisions! Thank you! HERE IS AN IDEA>>> you need to compliment your oil evaluations with OIL FILTER evaluations!
@@ProjectFarm I would shy away from that because the ATF monitors oil filter purchases because they can be used to make illegal silencers. Anyone who buys multiple at a time gets flagged. Even mechanics often get questioned.
@@WardenWolf YIKES! I even avoid firearm tests on the tube because i get skeart of flags. I used lots of filters when I was a mek a nik but i didn't purchase the filters fpr the shop.
Love your passion and the way you keep to a very scientific and unbiased approach. It's amazing how you're able to come up with so many different ways to test products and expound useful data. You help a lot of people.
I would like to see one of these for shovels. I work on the pipeline and we break more shovels than you could imagine. We’ve settled on “Nupla” brand and they have been the strongest, but they’re heavy and can wear on your hands. The fiberglass ones with the cushy handles tend to break easy and cause blisters. I want to find a better shovel.
Great idea, I second that! Very difficult to find good shovels, whether spade, square, snow or large feed-type shovels. Been through countless examples of each and the best are 30-40 years old. Strangely enough, the heavy duty one I'm using now fractured near the spade and is held together with hose clamps and electrical and duct tape!
Something to consider - worm gear hose clamps are often not the failure point, but the hose they're clamping. In that regard, an assessment should be made on how much damage each brand imparts on the hose itself. It could be strong as all get out and immune to corrosion but if it ruins an expensive silicone radiator hose, I don't want it
@@Will_14_years_agoNo, only on hot fluid lines with plastic barbs. People need to start thinking about the other types of clamps used for automotive applications and why, there's no constant tension or worm clamps on an axle boot. I'm tired of the clamp elitists in youtube comments, take it all the way and buy $500 of all the clamps that will work perfectly for the job, or just shut your mouth and use a damn worm clamp
I have worked on cars for 30+ years now. And I have never seen a correctly fitted clamp damaging a hose. Unless someone tried fitting a to large clamp on a small hose, or overtightening the shit out of it. So I think your experience comes down to human error. And that can't be engineered away.
@@WebrexxxOEM hoses tend to be more resilient to worm clamps, because the rubber they're molded from is much firmer. However, as I mentioned in my original comment, silicone hoses are quite a bit softer. Your experience doesn't change facts.
As always, quality video from Project Farm. I don't even do plumbing and I watched the whole video without skipping or increasing speed. No nonsense, straight to the point, no attempt at comedy, no self-aggrandizing, just the comparison content. Love your videos!
Hose clamps like the ones featured in this video are often used in automotive applications, and to make a repair to an air line. I have never seen them used for plumbing in a building.
I've seen people poo poo Project Farm but I agree with you. He does a great job. There may be more scientific test but what he does is real world useful.
Having worked on European cars for decades, the only hose clamps I will use now (for everything) are Norma brand. They are made in Germany and are very high quality. OEM clamp for VW, Audi, Porsche, Mercedes, etc....the clamps are designed not to dig into hoses as you tighten the wormgear. And they have a HUGE range in sizes.
I use the breeze ones personally, never had an issue. Funny how such a seemingly universal part can perform so differently. Thanks for this video, I’ll continue using breeze clamps.
Yes, they don't have quality hose clamps in the chain auto parts stores. I can get Ideal / Tridon at the local independent store and those are good enough.
@@ProjectFarm weird request but one day can we find out whats the best mower deck belt brand. I've been through several and non make it a season with good thick grass.
Norma is always and has been my go to hose clamp brand, because of the non cutting edges into hoses, they are offered in 9mm and 12mm widths. Also these are the go to hose clamps for Porsche, Mercedes, BMW and VW. Maybe next time try out aviation clamps from Herbie Clamps, and safety wire
Oetikor style hose clamps are the best especially for anything fuel related. You need a special tool to install them and you have to have the right size clamp for your hose and fitting but they have a much smaller profile which is not only more aesthetically pleasing but easier to fit in tight spaces and they also have perfectly even clamping force all the way around.
The 'Norma' type is the clamp you see here most in the UK, they probably aren't always Norma branded though. I really dislike the slotted type as they never hold up as well as the threaded strap 'Norma' type, especially down to small sizes like those for fuel pipes.
They are also the OE on almost all older and modern BMWs. We have 40 year old BMW racecars still using the same original hose clamps for the coolant hoses/fuel lines.
In the UK these type of clamps are known as "Jubilee Clips" because of the first company to manufacture them (genericized trademark). It would be nice to see you test some of the Jubilee branded ones.
Hi, I like your tests and TH-cam videos. I worked with a lot of hose clamps for many years. I owned an automotive air conditioning & radiator repair shop from 1973 to about 2003. The vehicles cooling system used them at every connection. Also many of the early air conditioning fittings used worm-drive hose clamps. They had a little spacer bar on them to position them about 5/8" from the end of the hose. This positioned them more over the fittings 3 hose barbs. We found out right away it was better to double clamp the air conditioning fittings, that way there was a clamp right at the end of the hose and another clamp.right over the hose barbs. By the way, the 3 hose barbs each extended from the diameter of the fitting about 1/16" and were shaped to keep the hose from slipping off. Worm-drive hose clamps can be over tightened, the case you saw when you used a ratchet to tighten them. Off coarse some clamps are a little better than others. Your test probably showed how some were better than others but they were probably all over tightened. If you used a screw driver or nut driver you would not have over tightened them. Take care and Keep up the good work. A viewer that likes you and your videos. Patrick
I work in manufacturing and we’ve always used breeze. I’ve never stripped one or had one fail. We used them in a sizing process where there were hoses everywhere and some were open/closed multiple times a shift.
Thanks you for the video. At least in automotive use I have always liked the spring style clamps since they shrink and expand with the material they are wrapped around unlike a standard hose clamp so you don't get situations where you install a clamp and it either snaps from expansion or gets to loose when the hose shrinks.
Very professional and informative. I just spent over $4k on an engine build and I'm going for quality hose clamps for all of the heating and cooling hoses. This video provided just what I needed to know. Excellent
Here's a tip: find a pull-it-yourself junk yard, and yank a bunch of hose clamps off of enough German and Japaneses cars to have a decent collection of what you're likely to need. The German clamps are the best - like the Norma clamps here - because the design is easiest on the hose, easiest to tighten, and clamps most evenly. The Japanese constant-pressure clamps are also very good, I have no problem with them, and the constant-pressure design is exactly what you need for something like a cooling system where you need a good seal but only at low psi. They're also usually the easiest to get on and off quickly and the best to avoid overtightening, which I see all the time unfortunately. Some people just seem to think tighter is always better. I did this maybe fifteen years ago and still have a lifetime supply of both types. Same thing goes for metric hardware.
I used to do that as well as the fuses and light bulbs. Most of these items are scrapped along with the body after a couple of months in the yard. The yards usually charge very little if anything for these items so it is worth your time to collect them.
A few years ago, I found my SUV was loosing coolant. I traced the problem to the hose clamps for the auxiliary climate control that ran along the bottom of the vehicle. Nine out of ten had failed due to corrosion. I replaced them with whatever they had at the parts store. I wish I had your video back then!
I tend to prefer the constant tension type clamps for when hoses expand and shrink during heating and cooling. Plus i work in the automotive industry and 200+ psi is not often seen.
I had always thought that constant tension type clamps were used in automotive applications due to their speed of installation and cost for vehicle manufacturers. The truth is that since they expand and contract during the huge and repetitive temperature swings, they actually leak less than screw type clamps. Such capabilities greatly reduce warranty claims. A customer can tolerate performance issues, but even if it leaks a little, it goes to the shop for warranty work almost immediately.
Same here. I always imagined the hoses showed up to the assembly line with some type of disposable clip holding the clamp open so the employee could slip it on, pop off the clip, and quickly send it on its way.
I’m a Canadian trucker, I don’t need to watch the whole video because I already know which one is the best lol. But I will still watch because I love this guy’s energy!
We used the second last one on a waahplant that was fed by a cat 3406 and 12" water pump. Didn't have much issues with them, you can tighten them more without worrying like the cheap ones
Yes the t-bar clamps are fantastic, they don’t always come back off nicely as it will sometimes spin. They are the standard for clamps on the intake system for large diesels for a reason.
Everything I need to buy I check to see if this guy has made a video for it first. This plan has not left me disappointed yet. Love all of the testing rigs also.
This is a very thoughtful subject for study and comparison. hose clamps that are used on outdoor solar water heaters are expected to last more than 10 years although exposed to the elements. The failure of these hose clamps can lead to the failure of pumps and the loss of thousands of gallons of water.
I pulled some black colored stainless hose clamps off of our now defunct solar pool heating system. They were 30+ years old, and have been in the sun the whole time. They look, feel, and work perfectly. Interesting for sure.
Great video, love seeing the differences in quality from the different designs. Speaking strictly of automotive coolant hoses in an OEM setup, OVER clamping is one of the most common issues that cause premature hose failure. The too tight squeeze breaks down the material right next to the clamp and repeated heat cycles will cause softening and eventual failure. Most OEM hoses are so good that they will last long past 200K miles unless the clamps have been changed. I point this out because the simple spring style clamps are the most reliable and have a calibrated design to apply the correct amount of pressure and no more. As long as the spigot and the hose end are clean and undamaged they work perfectly. I'm sure many have experienced leaks, in my experience that is usually from the surface of the hose and the spigot being compromised or an OEM used cheaper clamps that lost their spring force which is usually obvious because the clamp will rotate easily when seated. In that case like for like replacement is the best solution. Intercooler tubes and high pressure racing cooling systems and the like are a whole different application, in that case the stronger clamps are necessary and the parts are designed for the clamping force. Love your videos PF, keep up the awesome!
Being able to get to the head of clamps in tight spaces should also be considered. I really want to try out those Mishimoto clamps but the Norma ones are more in my budgets upper end. Man I love this channel
Hey dude, you make great videos and will most likely put consumer reports out of business! Thank you for sharing your ingenious designs for testing and excellent scientific method as well as your knowledge of physics. Nice to see someone with a brain posting relevant articles on TH-cam! Keep up the great work, sir!
You're my hero for covering this, I was literally trying to do some planning for new parts and this is more detail than I thought I'd find! You're the best.
Bro... Your videos are so direct and to the point. Love how u edit and get right to the meat of it. Very easy to understand the charts and give the viewer all the critical data in order to make an informed decision on which choice is best for their particular application. Love your videos. Very enjoyable to watch. When I want to know if a particular product is good I come to you. Thank you for all your detailed work. Liked and subscribed... Sincerely, D.
I love your tests. I do want to offer a bit of defense to the constant tension/spring type clamp. Most of the cars I work on use those spring style clamps. They're kind of a pain, but there's a pattern I've noticed. Anytime someone replaces those clamps with a screw type, the hose eventually ends up leaking. Hoses lose elasticity and having a clamp compress one small area for so long eventually means a screw type clamp eventually finds itself to no longer be applying the same tension it originally did. The spring type, however, not only do they not compress a hose that hard, but they also do compensate for what little compressing of the rubber does happen, keeping much more consistent clamp load over the years. This is the primary reason OEMs seem to prefer them. They allow some expansion with heat and also contract back down as things cool plus compensate for compression of the hose underneath. Most of what they're sealing against is a maximum of 15-20 PSI on average... nothing crazy.
In marine applications, the clamps tend to fail under the screws. Guessing due to localized stress corrosion as well as dissimilar metal corrosion-a much better corrosion test would be to spray working & tightened clamps and make sure the corrosion inducing solution gets into the worms gears
Great test. Shame you didn’t have more clamps like the Norma. We refer to hose clamps as Jubilee clips here in England. Made by Jubilee clips company. It would be interesting to see the comparison with them against those others. Also I find it interesting to see how poor most of the slotted clamps are. I avoid them at all costs, opting for easily accessible Jubilee clips that I find readily available here.
@@chrisbaker2903 they do look very much like the Norma clamps but it’s almost like an industry standard over here if you need something like that. They’re living off their name but I always have good experiences with them. They’re a bit like how people here call vacuum a hoover but hoover is a brand of vacuum.
I go to junkyards and look for old Mercedes or BMW cars, and pilfer the German made hose clamps, much better quality than the Chinese clamps, and they don’t cut the hoses when tightened
Glad to see breeze did well, as that's what I use. Not all stainless steel hose clamps have a stainless worm gear, which is important for applications where the clamp is buried.
I agree with Quinn. I am a journeyman die maker and worked for one of the American clamp companies previously. I noticed that you used several types of hose clamps designed for different uses not one style of clamp made for the same application. The ideal hose clamp you had appeared to be misshapen and possibly damaged or previously used. Having worked for a major clamp company I can also tell you that it is very possible that several of the clamps with different names were made in the same factory by the same company. At ideal there were several brand produced by changing the product stamp in the stamping die for that product
I haven’t watched in awhile, but I was on the internet looking for some high quality clamps and here you are coming through again. I love project farm.
I've been using Norma for decades. They're the factory hose clip on Rover and Land Rover vehicles, and always release after a decade or more in a vehicle engine bay.
With the Akihisa brand, that style of clamp has the advantage that since it's not a pressed in thread and worm gear setup, you can apply significantly more torque to it without clamp failure to maximize sealing. It's basically limited by the torque limitations of the bolt you're cranking on, which I would guess is somewhere in the 30 ft-lbs. range. That's going to be a lot higher clamping force than anything else tested here.
I have the tool for wire clamps and I really like it for permanent repairs like puting a new end on a garden hose. You can get it crazy tight if you want but when your done it is flush and wont snag on stuff, including your skin. If you cover it with heavy duty heat shrink you cannot even tell it's there.
@@ProjectFarm May I suggest not a competition, but more of a fact check on numerous Amazon items. Another Channel did one on flashlight lumen ratings. How about grease gun PSI ratings, headlight lumen ratings, flashlight lumen ratings, claims of something being made of aluminum when it's actually made of pot steel, electronic component values, torque wrench accuracies, weight capacities, scale or gauge accuracy, etc. You know, stuff that an amateur DIY guy is likely to buy in Amazon for one or two projects just to get it done cheaply because he's on a budget or whatever. Buy three products that are their top sellers or recommended by Amazon in various categories and test them versus reality. I think it's getting to the point where Amazon is doing something illegal, at least they're benefiting from fraudulent statements.
Great tests! I liked the corrosion testing. Having used tons of cheap and nice hose clamps, the ability to do the job isn't always that different, but how "stainless" the steel is, especially the screws, varies a ton. As does how easy they are to tighten and how well they handle tightening force and reuse. The key with a lot of them is not to over tighten and to fix whatever you're assembling if it needs too much force. The leak test was awesome. Money no object the Breeze, Norma, or Scandvik would probably be my pick.
I had a sailboat in Mexico for 6 years and I found that those typical, perforated type hose clamps don’t hold up well in a warm saltwater environment. They would often have just a hint of surface corrosion, yet would break with just a bit of bending. I changed every critical hose clamp (those below waterline, engine cooling, oil lines, etc.) to the Skandvik brand, non-perforated clamps, and they never failed. The rounded edges don’t cut up the hoses either.
Simply stated, Using these clamps over the years, I noticed there is a definite difference in their quality and strength. The majority are cheaply made and tend to jump the slots if tightened to much, while others do not. The worst offenders are from Harbor Freight.
all the stuff from Harbor Freight is of the lowest quality. The cheap price is OK for short term needs or in a hurry fixes, but otherwise skip the store. They do have a somewhat large selection of stuff which can come in handy.
@@gkprivate433 Also as a mechanic i can say that it is way more cost effective to buy 100 cheap hose clams instead of 10 high quality time since in most cases even the cheapest option will outlive the car and in my cases i never have 30+ bars in the cooling system for example xDDD. But i can see how some industries might buy those highend ones
Solid Demonstration, if you're doing regular maintenance.....I'm still a Breeze guy......most bang for the buck. If you are worried about failure.... For 10 bucks, get a Breeze assortment, and keep them in the toolbox or glove box.....never stranded if you need field repair. Thanks for doing the science...You Rock!
Great video. for pretty much any automotive application the spring clamps are best. When they frst came out in the 1980s, the initial reaction at the shop was they were just a cheap out, but it didn't take long to realize they work way better over the long term, and once you had the right pliers, they were easy to get on and off. Always loved the Normas- just a high class clamp
I've found in my experience that they function fine, but come apart too easily. How well they actually function in relation to the band and worm-gear clamps, I would love to see as well. I expect that their weight savings is their biggest benefit, quite frankly. 😅
Thankyou sir. Great as always. I came across breeze clamps last year and I’ve been telling local suppliers to get them. I found they can squeeze down on a poly water line sufficiently without heat and without stripping, others you may need to give some heat to the pipe then tighten again. I find with breeze clamps I can use one in a situation I may have used two of another clamp brand. The two piece design of the gear assembly is a winner in regards to not stripping out.
Interesting video. I’ve worked in the auto industry for years. Most manufacturers have gone to hose clamps similar to the clips and fasteners (constant tension hose clamps). The metal band that you need pliers to install. From my experience they are the better option for automotive applications. Sure they don’t hold high pressure on your video. Where they were install on the wrong size hose. Even still in auto they don’t need to. Automotive coolant systems are design to operate at around 15 psi. What these claps are great at is low maintenance and keeping constant tension during heat cycles. I’ve seen multiple cars over heat after technicians replaced these factory clamps with worm gear style clamps. Due to hose leaks.
Older vehicles I used to work on always had the constant tension clamps from the factory. There were special notched pliers used on these that would grab the band ends. Sometimes these were difficult to get the pliers on, so many replaced them with the "aircraft" style worm drive clamps.
New age autos dont have the same size hoses as the old school autos , so a shop is better to stock the adjustable size , rather than the constant pressure ones , i miss the 3/4 inch and 7/8 inch common heater hoses , now you wont know the size till you get it off the vehicle , forced to buy premolded alot more often , and the universal heater hose that your local parts store carrys ....is usually a joke ( cheap , flimsy , wimpy ) gotta buy that big money premolded hose , might as well buy real clamps , factory uses them cause a automated machine can install them and there properly torqued every time in a simple way , its harder for them to do that on the adjustable style ....
Yup, spring clamps are the only way to go with automotive. I've had band clamps leak after a while because of the heat cycles where they become looser over time, whereas the constant spring tension eliminates this problem. For higher pressure applications, the clamps with the bolt are far better than the worm gear, especially on smaller hoses. I pretty much quit using the worm gear ones altogether.
I would LOVE to see a similar video testing t-bolt clamps with brands like Vibrant Performance, Ideal, Oetiker, Clampco, Breeze, etc. It would be a huge benefit to those into modified vehicles/ performance parts. One notable issue I've seen is the locking nut stripping itself on to the threads for the t-bolt after being tightened down resulting in a far less serviceable engine bay when things need to come back apart as they often do.
I was popping charge hoses like crazy before I switched everything to t-bolt clamps. They just get tighter than the worm clamps when working with large diameters
@@michaelhooboob I feel like t-bolt clamps were not well represented in this test. You could walk away feeling like they don't hold when, in fact, MANY people use t-bolts exclusively because nothing else worked.
Have used the Ideal & Breeze Constant Tension clamps on Race Cars, Marine, MotoCross, Sport/Street Bikes and Automotive applications for decades. Have never had one failure. Love that the worm gear doesn't cut into silicone/rubber hoses. And they have up well over the years under extreme conditions.
Comments like yours are pure gold to me. If something survives a racing or extreme commercial environment like you described, it will survive anything a hobbyist can throw at it. Thanks again for the comment.
@@giggiddy Absolutely! Always love digging through the comments to find other peoples real world experience. Depending on the brand/batch/age some are now overseas sources unfortunately. But have not heard any horror stories because of it. Still great products either way
Great video. So many things are of lower quality in this era of "made in china". It's nice to see that there are still some high-quality clamp manufacturers out there and ... now we know who they are thanks to you!
Another excellent suite of tests. Another test could perhaps be how well the head stands up to tightening with a screwdriver er. Most failures that I've seen have been the heads, with corriosion second. As a Brit, I'd really like to see our original "Jubilee clip" included if you ever re-run this. They are well worth paying for.
My mother-in-law worked at a hose clamp factory years ago, I don't know what brand, they looked like the first ones you showed. I'm not going to run downstairs and check. Anyway... years ago she gave me an assortment of different sized clamps. Her daughter has not been my wife for over 32 years now but I still have those clamps, used one 2 days ago! I liked, still appreciate my mother-in-law. She appreciated **me** more than her daughter ever did! I get to think about it every time I use a clamp.
Mikalor (commonly known as T bolt clamps) are awesome. Literally can't be compared to chappy worm gear clamps. Used these things on my car and never had a single leak after fitting these things. Worth 2x the price of a worm gear clamp
One of the things that your hose clamp test didn't take into account was temperature. Most of those hose clamps will leak on the temperature of the hose changes. The one that will move with temperature changes is the spring style. That's the one that's used through automotive hose clamps as they provide constant pressure under varying temperature conditions. It would be great if you could do a video test of the pressure style hose clamps in their own category under varying temperature conditions.
For automotive purposes over my many years of service experience I found that those spring clamps are the absolute best. Ford had a little difficulty with them breaking from time to time but for the most part if you want a clamp that will maintain a good compression over the life of the hose those can't be beat.
The break strength test you should have had the screw pin shackles turned 180 degrees so the clamps were on a flat surface. I guess they all went through the same test but you ended up putting more stress on the outer edges of the clamp which is where they were giving out at the slot ends. Either way excellent test. I use the breeze brand at home the big kit with storage rack is awesome.
Great work as usual. But it was unclear to me which of the tested clamps have screws that will resist corrosion. Working in a marine environment I frequently encounter clamps marked "All Stainless" that have non-stainless screws that turn into a seized mass of rust and can only be removed with a hammer and chisel.
I think all of the standard clamps used SS screws except for the Breeze and Mishimoto clamps, so if you look at how the bands and housings fared in the corrosion test you'll get a good idea of how their worm gears fare because they're likely made from the same steel source. For the t-bolt style clamps, the Mishimoto also uses a plated steel bolt, but the Akihisha uses a SS bolt. The tensile and torque tests highlight why plated carbon steel screws are used in environments where corrosion isn't the highest priority...SS isn't the best steel to use where strength is an important consideration. If you need that strength in a marine/corrosive environment, I'd suggest using carbon steel and making it a point to inspect and replace at regular intervals.
I second the desire to know the corrosion resistance of the screws. Platers tend to corrode and become problematic unless the task is one-and-done; I noted that some of the clamps tested claimed marine environment yet were clearly plated. Words are cheap.
The overall rating depends a lot on weighting of the various tests. Equal weighting, as here, is simple, but maybe not ideal for different applications. I like that you provided charts and the raw scores! The charts can help you see where the outliers are and which tests have maybe a couple of groups where positions within that group don't matter much.
I replaced the flexible oil pipes on a motorcycle with fluoro lined silicone. The recommended worm clips were actually too big. They went D shaped before the connection sealed. The next size down opened almost to separation sealed perfectly when tightened down.
Something your missing about the spring tension hose clamps is they all for thermal+ low pressure cycling over and over without damaging the hose. This is why they are used extensively on automotive cooling systems.
Agreed, but when replacing all the hoses on my old truck I found it was nearly impossible to source all the correct sizes (or at least within what I wanted to spend). I went with the Ideal constant tension style clamps and that was before watching this video.
In the construction field we have to wear a large range of safety gear and I've always wondered is there a difference is hard hats ? Also from personal experience ladders are not made equal my biggest disappointment was a DeWalt breaking down in the weather on my ladder rack only lasting 3 months before the fiber glass began splintering into my hands
Great video choice. Would have really liked to see how well each of the clips stood up to loosening from vibration or pressure cycling. In general for all videos, would really like to see how a certain amount of durability testing affects performance of the part, in addition to when the part completely fails, which you already do. Also surprised not to see jubilee clips on there!
I have been using Breeze for years because that's what McMaster-Carr sends me when I order hose clamps. I have another supplier that sends me Ideal Tridon, and I like the Breeze better. I should point out, though, that the benefit of the bolted style is that you can apply a great deal more tension with them. I would not use 30 inch pounds - I would be using more like 10 foot pounds or more, and at that tension it will not leak. The bolted style is MUCH better, but cruelly expensive. Nonetheless, I buy them for 3" hose vacuum connections because the connection matters.
Oetiker clamps are my personal favorite as they provide super high strength clamping, while being the most aesthetically pleasing imo. After that I tend to like t-clamp styles ones next. I really hate the standard slotted screw type ones
Those Norma/ska devil ones seem to be common on Volvos. I’ll be sure to scamvemge some next time I hit the junkyard, as they are miles better than the cheap autostore junk. I love oetiker style clamps but I hate how they’re one use. The reusable types I don’t like as much
@@mstrshkbrnnn1999 good, durable and non-reusable ones that stay on until you remove them or not so good reusable ones that may or may not be as durable? i'll take the first ones please. 😽
Here’s the list of products reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you!
Mishimoto Gold: amzn.to/3zQyrBs
Mishimoto: amzn.to/3OY3RKt
Precision: amzn.to/3BBFXRW
Norma: amzn.to/3BEs2L4
Breeze: amzn.to/3QrN6bH
Scandvik: amzn.to/3Q7huYO
Ideal Tridon: amzn.to/3cXjUuJ
Akihisa: amzn.to/3d4E06n
Koehler: amzn.to/3bpvJta
Lokman: amzn.to/3oTw2Qi
Indusky: amzn.to/3oOKJ70
Swpeet: amzn.to/3zRL3bo
Clipsnfasteners: amzn.to/3vCB3QW
Juasky: amzn.to/3OUpbR1
Meaxxna: amzn.to/3BDlsnS
Glarks: amzn.to/3PSqJMG
You have saved me so much money and aggravation. Being a new homeowner I don’t have a ton of spare money and I have to make sure that all the tools I get to take care of my home are the best. Thank you so much for all the informative videos!
This man is a national treasure.
Thanks for the positive comment!
No he's not because we're stealing him for the UK!
Seriously, one of my absolutely favourite channels out there! I've used PF's results to buy a few tools and consumables now and never been disappointed!
International
Dont say that or FBI will raid his house
He is the Man
As a former auto technician, my preference is Norma. BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Audi, and VW are factory equipped with them. They do far less damage to the hose than the slotted brands. After a period of time, most slotted clamps have a tendency to cut into the hose. The hose protrudes through the slots which can make them difficult to remove. Normas work great and you don’t have those problems. Great job, Todd!
The aikihisa or whatever band clamp type should outperform any of the other worm gear drives for pressure. If you have the right size and can afford those type of clamps they surpass any of the tested ones with worm drive...
On very old cars 1970..1980 those where used in all sizes with slot screws, they just vanish because of costs and plastic pipes under the rubber to clamp on
As a swedish car guy (and production tec) i dint use any clamps other then the ABA type.
I like my blue housings.
I swear older Volvos used norma clamps or ones that looked just like them. I had an s40 turbo that I scrapped but I pulled a bunch of random stuff from the car just to hoard, including the hose clamps from coolant hoses and intercooler piping. They've come in handy a ton of times
They use constant tension on cars, not worm clamp
Soft hose material extruding/shearing through a clamp's band is a result of design (non-lined) rather than brand.
Channels like this make the life of the consumer better. Thank you for the work you put in to these tests!!
Thanks and you are welcome!
I do wish he would run more than one test of each though. Testing only one leaves a huge margin of error to the extent that it is almost useless.
It`s to be recommended to friends for sure. These tests don`t lie. PF deserves extra piece of raisin pie.
Rather than buying the expensive 'automotive' low quality plated steel clamps with ordinary steel screw that rusts, I simply go into the plumbing department and buy the low priced all stainless steel clamps/screw made for continuous use under water on deep well water pumps...
That was a nice Comment.🤝🙏
I'm a small percentage of TH-camrs probably...senior citizen lady lives by herself.
I have no idea what I'm doing! So I have to learn and research...I'm on such a low income when doing a project it has to last! This guy is totally awesome! He's the best of the best! Fixing heater car hoses. That's a lot of heat , a lot of pressure , a lot of weather elements , it really makes a difference on how long it will last when you're splicing 2 heater hoses which you clamp together! Will it leak. Will it rust. Will it hold the pressure. Thank you so very much for helping me! God bless u hun!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Yes he does great videos when looking for the best and reading your post you are the best too! A women who appreciates things and has interest and does things is gold. God bless you dear!
Project Farm knocking it out of the park yet again! Seriously, these are the absolute BEST tests on products I have ever seen! You have definitely influenced some of my purchases!
Thanks so much!
I agree! Awesome research! Thank you for continuing to test so many products!
Agree, whenever I buy something I check out Project Farm first. I’ve been happy with everything I’ve bought based on his reviews!
This video is a gold standard example of what informational videos can achieve. So much information is quickly and clearly delivered, all while staying pleasant and unbiased.
I couldn't agree more!
I'm a marine mechanic, and I thank you for showing me that my shop has been wasting money on inferior hose clamps. #2 (Breeze) in leak prevention is plenty good enough for our applications considering the clamps we've been buying come in the middle of the pack. At half the price we've been spending, the switch will be an easy sell to the boss. Also, supporting USA made products is always a plus in my book. So, once again you have given the best straight forward, well organized, and somehow extremely relevant information one can find. Thanks again!
p.s. I would still love to see a comparison of battery powered leaf blowers! Cheers!
make that battery vs gas leaf blowers
Check out Kite Army for the leaf blowers. He does a lot of back yard style tests.
Thanks! Thanks for the video idea.
I also work in the Marine industry and we use the Scandvik ABA clamps. It's important that the slots aren't cut all the way through or they damage the hose, and more important for the marine industry is their superior corrosion resistance which these tests verfied.
Well done mate! I always avoid Chinese made products wherever possible, whatever the brand. We'll probably be at war with them within our lifetimes, so no point powering them now!
Well, I see we have a company engineer watching. That's a good thing and I think more company engineers should watch their product being real world tested by Project Farm. Great job as always.
Thanks!
Unfortunately the engineers have likely been fully aware for a long time but are overruled by the bean counters.
That engineer is proud to work there I bet. Must be great to be an engineer and work
At a place with such quality
@@trjb1767 thanks for the response AWR, I like your motor mounts by the way
Thickness of sheet matters, along with oval groves along worm assembly, now a days Clic R types are poppular@@hockeytops
I have been using Norma brand clamps for many years, another advantage they have over most other worm type clamps is that they don't use the perforated slot in the band for the worm drive but use the raised ribs for the worm to engage, the major advantage of this is the Norma band does not cut up hoses when they are tightened, the bands with the slots tend to cut up the hose, especially if you have the hose off and reinstall it a few times from doing repairs or even just the original intallation.
Thanks for sharing.
Yeah, that's over time proven, BMW in E34 from 1993 which I have used norma clamps, and rubber have shape of clamp after time, but none visible cuts into it
Of the hose clamps I've used, the Scandvik (ABA) Brand clamp is the one that won't damage the hose because its steel strip surface is flatter than the Nroma brand clamp
@@GuancunW I just installed 3 ABA hose clamps on the cooler line hose for a magnetic in-line external transmission filter. Yeah you can definitely feel the quality improvement - they are much stronger and don't damage the hose.
I bought a car that had those kinds of clamps someone put on it for the heater hoses a long time ago. Best clamps I've ever seen, I reused them. I found they can be tightened WAY tighter than a standard worm clamp and they don't strip out. I just bought a bunch for the radiator and heater hoses for when I put new hoses on my truck here pretty soon.
Great video but you missed one very important test. Temperature. This is why the constant tension clamps reign supreme in many applications, due their ability to adjust to changes in temperature like heater hoses that with temps that vary widely & constant tension clamps adjust on their own always keeping constant tension. For cold, static applications your tests are fine but you are missing a big reason every auto manufacturer switched to the more expensive but better constant tension style clamp.
Thanks! Thanks for the constructive feedback.
Spring clamps are like the almost perfect woman, her flaw being you can't stand doing anything with her because she needs a specific tool to get off. And if she's in the wrong position or slightly bent, it doesn't work!
I've never had a Breeze or Ideal clamp leak on a car, including my intercooler piping that exceeds 25psi and 250F.
the constant tension clamps are also better for clamping to plastic barbs, where over-clamping results in failure of the barb and under-clamping results in leaks.
They also are far superior for applications which require gouging a hole in the back of your hand.
@@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC I don't deny that they can be a nigthmare to remove. The removal tools help but I wish someone would re-engineer a better version, they all are kind of lousy
For most applications, I think the Breeze would be perfect. It's not too expensive, great corrosion resistance, and quite strong. Unless you need something beefier for a specific application, it should handle 99% of what you'll need it for.
Thanks for the feedback.
The Koehler brand is almost half the cost of the Breeze brand and performs very close in most uses that it's designed for. If you need to wire something together, use steel wire, don't use a hose clamp.
I have used breeze exclusively for a decade. I have never been let down
And USA made!
Exactly what I was thinking. The Breeze would probably be my choice for a 'general use' hose clamp.
I watch a lot of technical videos on this service and I have to state, as an engineer, that you covered and presented the subject matter thoroughly and yet still concise. Great pace and editing, I did not even have to put the speed settings to 2X. Good show and thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I agree… I’d like to see a real world testing of hose clamps for turbo charger and supercharger intake systems. Which type are the best that hold up to up to 50psi boost after heat cycles without having to re-tighten. And also which type hold rubber couplers best and silicone best. And if you want to go the extra yard, do the same pressure tests with dry couplers on the pipes. And then add some oil to the connections and tighten the clamps to the same torque settings. This would emulate real world conditions the best.
Thank you for including Norma. I've been using them, many times I re-use 30+ years old clamps. Never ever had a leakage, or a thread damage issue with them. For conventional use, they are the best.
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you for the video. As a professional diesel tech, I constantly see the various hose clamps used in the wrong applications. You must use constant tension clamps for high thermal cycling hoses like charge air coolers. For silicone hose, you must use either lined worm drive or rounded band clamps, otherwise, the standard cheap clamps destroy the hose. More important is using the proper size clamps and torques for the hose, which, unfortunately, I didn't see displayed in the tests. I also apply anti-seize or spray oil into the worm drive mechanism for smooth tightening. Doing things wrong is why the best clamps leak at lower than cheap clamp pressures. I recommend Norma, Scandvik, Breeze, Waveseal (not featured) and Smartseal (not featured). Ideal clamps have tanked in quality.
agreed, wrong applications include....the experiement conditions displayed in the video sadly. Excellent scientific method applied, but unfortunatly when it comes to hose clamps, the barb style is just as important if not more.
As a connector specialist (working side by side with your industry Dimich) we saw a lot of customers using "big and strong" clamps in simply unacceptable circumstances which results in a particular clamp type getting a bad reputation. Take silicone couplers typically used in boost charge pipes. Double wrapped worm drive constant tension are prefferable. But T-Bolt style clamps are often selected by customers, These often leak under the application as they pinch the hose near where the overlap occours in the clamp.
But they look "big and strong" so customers buy them and ignore your advice, then come back and buy more because having 3 works better apparently.
@@Typingwithpaws And similar application and method problems with the spring clamp, of course. Wrapping vinyl tape around the clamping surface to make up for a too-large clamp that is going to be pressure tested would be almost laughable if it were any other channel. For this channel, it's just incredibly disappointing.
Yeah, I remember when Ideal made some pretty decent clamps, bought a ton of them years ago and when I ran out and bought new ones the difference was immediately obvious. I use Norma, Breeze, and Mishimoto clamps depending on application, which made me laugh when that's what he recommended at the end. Going to check out these Waveseal/Smartseal clamps you mentioned. I run through all sorts of clamps on my ag plane, using the right ones will last several years, using the wrong ones won't last a single flight.
I would've liked to see the ideal tridon smartseal tested as well, found some randomly at Advance auto parts and thought they looked interesting with the inner piece.
Great comment, I work in the auto cooling industry and hose clamps are never worth skimping on. Lol. And the right clamp for the right application is spot on correct! 👍
Something I would have really loved to have seen here was a re-visit of the first test, once failure load for the clamps had been established. Where instead of cranking them down to a consistent 30 in/lbs, they were tightened to ~80% of failure load or something like that, to give a better idea of how they'd work in use. You can really crank down on a good-quality one to get a lot better seal than you can on a cheap one! The "smoother" ones are very likely applying a whole lot more compression on the hose than the ones with more rough threads for a given torque.
Thanks for the suggestion.
My thoughts exactly.
I was thinking the same thing. Also, would like to see a retest of the ones that were the wrong size, using the right size.
I don't understand why you would want to 'really crank down'. Set the clip at the required torque, but don't over-tighten it. A good quality clip will put up with a lot of abuse, as will cheaper ones for a short while, but at the same time you're risking damaging the pipe/ hose you're clamping.
Very informative but why do you keep mixing metric with imperial units?
Hose clamps are really under appreciated and should be up there in the handy man's arsenal with duct tape and wd40, I have rigged so many things together with hose clamps from Halloween decorations to robots.
Thanks for the feedback.
Yep always keep spares in my spare parts bag
I agree, I always keep some in my front pocket
and same makes will join together, a handy temp/permanent fixing
for me it is more zip ties, but the ones that you can release and reuse again.
I do not understand why the reusable variant does not have totally taken over the market, you still see only the unopenables in the shops.
Well... understandably so, with my 50 reusable I only bought once, never needed new ones (of that size). BAD for the seller.
Hi Todd! I picked up several of these through you Amazon Links! 🤠👮🏻♂️🙀😉🇺🇸👋. Stay Safe to you and your family. B9USA Sr.
Thanks for sharing! Thanks!
LOVE your channel! As an engineer, I really appreciate the tangible hands on approach to evaluating products. Your transparency lets us make informed decisions! Thank you! HERE IS AN IDEA>>> you need to compliment your oil evaluations with OIL FILTER evaluations!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm I would shy away from that because the ATF monitors oil filter purchases because they can be used to make illegal silencers. Anyone who buys multiple at a time gets flagged. Even mechanics often get questioned.
@@WardenWolf YIKES! I even avoid firearm tests on the tube because i get skeart of flags. I used lots of filters when I was a mek a nik but i didn't purchase the filters fpr the shop.
@teebles Search on TH-cam, "I'm under investigation for buying diesel parts!" by Truck Master.
@111sdh A channel called Brand Ranks does some pretty extensive oil filter testing. Purolator BOSS seems to be the best oil filter overall.
Love your passion and the way you keep to a very scientific and unbiased approach. It's amazing how you're able to come up with so many different ways to test products and expound useful data. You help a lot of people.
Thanks! Thanks so much for your support to the channel!
I would like to see one of these for shovels. I work on the pipeline and we break more shovels than you could imagine. We’ve settled on “Nupla” brand and they have been the strongest, but they’re heavy and can wear on your hands. The fiberglass ones with the cushy handles tend to break easy and cause blisters. I want to find a better shovel.
Thanks for the suggestion.
They have really good shovels on the rear of backhoes
Great idea, I second that! Very difficult to find good shovels, whether spade, square, snow or large feed-type shovels. Been through countless examples of each and the best are 30-40 years old. Strangely enough, the heavy duty one I'm using now fractured near the spade and is held together with hose clamps and electrical and duct tape!
My kids can brake them all!
Try a fiskars if you haven't. One piece steel.
Something to consider - worm gear hose clamps are often not the failure point, but the hose they're clamping. In that regard, an assessment should be made on how much damage each brand imparts on the hose itself. It could be strong as all get out and immune to corrosion but if it ruins an expensive silicone radiator hose, I don't want it
Manufacturers make a shielded hose clamp which prohibit silicone hose squeezing through the worm drive slots .
Tension clamps only for moat all automotive applications. Especially radiators heater cores coolant hoses etc.
@@Will_14_years_agoNo, only on hot fluid lines with plastic barbs. People need to start thinking about the other types of clamps used for automotive applications and why, there's no constant tension or worm clamps on an axle boot. I'm tired of the clamp elitists in youtube comments, take it all the way and buy $500 of all the clamps that will work perfectly for the job, or just shut your mouth and use a damn worm clamp
I have worked on cars for 30+ years now. And I have never seen a correctly fitted clamp damaging a hose.
Unless someone tried fitting a to large clamp on a small hose, or overtightening the shit out of it.
So I think your experience comes down to human error. And that can't be engineered away.
@@WebrexxxOEM hoses tend to be more resilient to worm clamps, because the rubber they're molded from is much firmer. However, as I mentioned in my original comment, silicone hoses are quite a bit softer. Your experience doesn't change facts.
As always, quality video from Project Farm. I don't even do plumbing and I watched the whole video without skipping or increasing speed. No nonsense, straight to the point, no attempt at comedy, no self-aggrandizing, just the comparison content. Love your videos!
Thanks!
Qualities that make PF one of the greatest who do these full time products vids.
Hose clamps like the ones featured in this video are often used in automotive applications, and to make a repair to an air line. I have never seen them used for plumbing in a building.
I've seen people poo poo Project Farm but I agree with you. He does a great job. There may be more scientific test but what he does is real world useful.
Having worked on European cars for decades, the only hose clamps I will use now (for everything) are Norma brand. They are made in Germany and are very high quality. OEM clamp for VW, Audi, Porsche, Mercedes, etc....the clamps are designed not to dig into hoses as you tighten the wormgear. And they have a HUGE range in sizes.
Norma clamps seem to be OEM on most turbos regardless of make.
Thanks for sharing.
I use the breeze ones personally, never had an issue. Funny how such a seemingly universal part can perform so differently. Thanks for this video, I’ll continue using breeze clamps.
You are welcome!
Where do you get breeze clamps most often? I’ve never seen them
@@rockoyouthman Amazon, i do find them in stock at Napa and the other parts stores from time to time
I'm always amazed at how Project Farm is able to do comparisons on everything and covers a wide range of tests.
Thanks!
Most of the hose clamps I buy locally are junk. Love watching your great testing methods! Thanks for another great video!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Yes, they don't have quality hose clamps in the chain auto parts stores. I can get Ideal / Tridon at the local independent store and those are good enough.
@@ProjectFarm weird request but one day can we find out whats the best mower deck belt brand. I've been through several and non make it a season with good thick grass.
Norma is always and has been my go to hose clamp brand, because of the non cutting edges into hoses, they are offered in 9mm and 12mm widths. Also these are the go to hose clamps for Porsche, Mercedes, BMW and VW. Maybe next time try out aviation clamps from Herbie Clamps, and safety wire
Thanks for the suggestion.
Wow, quite a difference! Thanks to those who suggested this test. It has real world relevance.
Thanks for sharing.
Oetikor style hose clamps are the best especially for anything fuel related. You need a special tool to install them and you have to have the right size clamp for your hose and fitting but they have a much smaller profile which is not only more aesthetically pleasing but easier to fit in tight spaces and they also have perfectly even clamping force all the way around.
Thanks for the feedback.
I been using the Norma clamps for decades, they are OEM on GM ,Opel,Vauxhall, Daewoo & Holden vehicles & hold up very well even after reuse
Thanks for sharing.
The 'Norma' type is the clamp you see here most in the UK, they probably aren't always Norma branded though. I really dislike the slotted type as they never hold up as well as the threaded strap 'Norma' type, especially down to small sizes like those for fuel pipes.
Norma are OEM fitment on Rover and Land Rover vehicles too, definitely the best all round hose clips I've ever used.
I'm a technician at a Maserati/Alfa Romeo dealership and we use Norma clamps in our shop
They are also the OE on almost all older and modern BMWs. We have 40 year old BMW racecars still using the same original hose clamps for the coolant hoses/fuel lines.
In the UK these type of clamps are known as "Jubilee Clips" because of the first company to manufacture them (genericized trademark). It would be nice to see you test some of the Jubilee branded ones.
Just wrote same thing jubilee clips don't have those slotted holes in way better
Jubilee clips are better than any of these.these are all just rip offs of jubilee brand.
Would be nice to see you add the Jubilee clamps to this test
Thanks for the suggestion.
316 jubilee clips are the best. I am a marine engineer, that is all I will use.
It’s so interesting to see the creative setups you come up with to test products!
Thanks!
Hi, I like your tests and TH-cam videos.
I worked with a lot of hose clamps for many years. I owned an automotive air conditioning & radiator repair shop from 1973 to about 2003.
The vehicles cooling system used them at every connection. Also many of the early air conditioning fittings used worm-drive hose clamps. They had a little spacer bar on them to position them about 5/8" from the end of the hose. This positioned them more over the fittings 3 hose barbs. We found out right away it was better to double clamp the air conditioning fittings, that way there was a clamp right at the end of the hose and another clamp.right over the hose barbs. By the way, the 3 hose barbs each extended from the diameter of the fitting about 1/16" and were shaped to keep the hose from slipping off.
Worm-drive hose clamps can be over tightened, the case you saw when you used a ratchet to tighten them.
Off coarse some clamps are a little better than others. Your test probably showed how some were better than others but they were probably all over tightened. If you used a screw driver or nut driver you would not have over tightened them.
Take care and Keep up the good work.
A viewer that likes you and your videos.
Patrick
Thanks, will do! Thanks so much!
I work in manufacturing and we’ve always used breeze. I’ve never stripped one or had one fail. We used them in a sizing process where there were hoses everywhere and some were open/closed multiple times a shift.
Thanks for sharing.
@@ProjectFarm and thank you sir for making top notch videos!
Thanks you for the video. At least in automotive use I have always liked the spring style clamps since they shrink and expand with the material they are wrapped around unlike a standard hose clamp so you don't get situations where you install a clamp and it either snaps from expansion or gets to loose when the hose shrinks.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
That is a good point, that is probably why spring clamps are what come stock from the factory on automobiles.
Fvck spring clamps.Leaky pos’s.
I love your videos. Straight to the point, just as long as they need to be. No BS. You are awesome!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Agreed, No B/S and to the point. will be replacing all my claps with Breeze ASAP. Problem is who sells Breeze clamps.
Very professional and informative. I just spent over $4k on an engine build and I'm going for quality hose clamps for all of the heating and cooling hoses. This video provided just what I needed to know. Excellent
Here's a tip: find a pull-it-yourself junk yard, and yank a bunch of hose clamps off of enough German and Japaneses cars to have a decent collection of what you're likely to need. The German clamps are the best - like the Norma clamps here - because the design is easiest on the hose, easiest to tighten, and clamps most evenly. The Japanese constant-pressure clamps are also very good, I have no problem with them, and the constant-pressure design is exactly what you need for something like a cooling system where you need a good seal but only at low psi. They're also usually the easiest to get on and off quickly and the best to avoid overtightening, which I see all the time unfortunately. Some people just seem to think tighter is always better.
I did this maybe fifteen years ago and still have a lifetime supply of both types. Same thing goes for metric hardware.
How much did they charge you for all those clamps?
@@insanemustaine111 a lot of places just let you take them for free. Same with fuse's. Oem fuses are the best
I used to do that as well as the fuses and light bulbs. Most of these items are scrapped along with the body after a couple of months in the yard. The yards usually charge very little if anything for these items so it is worth your time to collect them.
Shhhh, Don't share our secrets ; )
Spot on
A few years ago, I found my SUV was loosing coolant. I traced the problem to the hose clamps for the auxiliary climate control that ran along the bottom of the vehicle. Nine out of ten had failed due to corrosion. I replaced them with whatever they had at the parts store. I wish I had your video back then!
Thanks for sharing.
I tend to prefer the constant tension type clamps for when hoses expand and shrink during heating and cooling. Plus i work in the automotive industry and 200+ psi is not often seen.
I had always thought that constant tension type clamps were used in automotive applications due to their speed of installation and cost for vehicle manufacturers. The truth is that since they expand and contract during the huge and repetitive temperature swings, they actually leak less than screw type clamps. Such capabilities greatly reduce warranty claims. A customer can tolerate performance issues, but even if it leaks a little, it goes to the shop for warranty work almost immediately.
That is what I thought.
Same here. I always imagined the hoses showed up to the assembly line with some type of disposable clip holding the clamp open so the employee could slip it on, pop off the clip, and quickly send it on its way.
the worm gear clamps eventually bite into the hose, damaging it, with a high risk of pin hole leaking.
Thanks for the feedback.
I’m a Canadian trucker, I don’t need to watch the whole video because I already know which one is the best lol. But I will still watch because I love this guy’s energy!
Thanks for watching!
God Bless Canadian Truckers !
🍁 🚛 💪🏼 🔥
We used the second last one on a waahplant that was fed by a cat 3406 and 12" water pump. Didn't have much issues with them, you can tighten them more without worrying like the cheap ones
Great feedback! Thanks
Yes, I have the same results. I prefer this style over the other ones. It won't damage the rubber hose as the other ones
Yes the t-bar clamps are fantastic, they don’t always come back off nicely as it will sometimes spin. They are the standard for clamps on the intake system for large diesels for a reason.
Everything I need to buy I check to see if this guy has made a video for it first. This plan has not left me disappointed yet. Love all of the testing rigs also.
Thank you very much!!
This is a very thoughtful subject for study and comparison. hose clamps that are used on outdoor solar water heaters are expected to last more than 10 years although exposed to the elements. The failure of these hose clamps can lead to the failure of pumps and the loss of thousands of gallons of water.
Great point on the solar water heaters!!
I pulled some black colored stainless hose clamps off of our now defunct solar pool heating system. They were 30+ years old, and have been in the sun the whole time. They look, feel, and work perfectly. Interesting for sure.
@@life_of_riley88 It would be a welcome referral to those sturdy clamps if a name can be found.
@@jamesscott1932 I'll get back to you on that.
@@life_of_riley88 thank you would be awesome...
I think they where just painted standard " stainless V4A" steely type "geka" brand ones :-9
Great video, love seeing the differences in quality from the different designs.
Speaking strictly of automotive coolant hoses in an OEM setup, OVER clamping is one of the most common issues that cause premature hose failure. The too tight squeeze breaks down the material right next to the clamp and repeated heat cycles will cause softening and eventual failure. Most OEM hoses are so good that they will last long past 200K miles unless the clamps have been changed.
I point this out because the simple spring style clamps are the most reliable and have a calibrated design to apply the correct amount of pressure and no more. As long as the spigot and the hose end are clean and undamaged they work perfectly.
I'm sure many have experienced leaks, in my experience that is usually from the surface of the hose and the spigot being compromised or an OEM used cheaper clamps that lost their spring force which is usually obvious because the clamp will rotate easily when seated. In that case like for like replacement is the best solution.
Intercooler tubes and high pressure racing cooling systems and the like are a whole different application, in that case the stronger clamps are necessary and the parts are designed for the clamping force.
Love your videos PF, keep up the awesome!
Thanks, will do! Thanks for sharing.
Being able to get to the head of clamps in tight spaces should also be considered. I really want to try out those Mishimoto clamps but the Norma ones are more in my budgets upper end. Man I love this channel
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
I'm using mishimoto on all my engine coolant hoses and they hold up great, bought them with a full racing hose kit
@@1creep2e3r they definitely have the right look. Do they have them in all sizes?
@@jeremybaity7002 pretty big range yeah, I bought them 75% off so I got 2 bags of every size they offer
@@1creep2e3r awesome and good find
I will look for the Breeze brand next time I'm buying clamps. Seems to be the best all around while be affordable. Excellent presentation as always!
Thanks!
I think Napa has them
Breeze are standard equipment on Cat engines…
Breeze is part of NORMA Group so it's basically made in germany as well
Hey dude, you make great videos and will most likely put consumer reports out of business! Thank you for sharing your ingenious designs for testing and excellent scientific method as well as your knowledge of physics. Nice to see someone with a brain posting relevant articles on TH-cam! Keep up the great work, sir!
Thanks, will do!
You're my hero for covering this, I was literally trying to do some planning for new parts and this is more detail than I thought I'd find! You're the best.
You're very welcome!
I absolutely love project farm. He never fails to put out quality content!
I appreciate that!
This great video and your comment has just made me a subscriber... Thanks!
@@step4560 Niice! These are my go to videos for when I get some food haha
His reviews are so efficient and relevant to what people use them for. I often look for his videos before buying a tool.
Bro... Your videos are so direct and to the point. Love how u edit and get right to the meat of it. Very easy to understand the charts and give the viewer all the critical data in order to make an informed decision on which choice is best for their particular application. Love your videos. Very enjoyable to watch. When I want to know if a particular product is good I come to you. Thank you for all your detailed work.
Liked and subscribed...
Sincerely, D.
Thanks so much! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Needing to by more hose clamps thanks so much Todd as always .
Thank you! I'm always in need of them too. I use them for all sorts of things
@@ProjectFarm Absolutely they are irreplaceable for certain applications
Been using Norma clamps for all my automotive use and have been very happy with them.
Thanks for the feedback.
I love your tests.
I do want to offer a bit of defense to the constant tension/spring type clamp.
Most of the cars I work on use those spring style clamps. They're kind of a pain, but there's a pattern I've noticed.
Anytime someone replaces those clamps with a screw type, the hose eventually ends up leaking.
Hoses lose elasticity and having a clamp compress one small area for so long eventually means a screw type clamp eventually finds itself to no longer be applying the same tension it originally did.
The spring type, however, not only do they not compress a hose that hard, but they also do compensate for what little compressing of the rubber does happen, keeping much more consistent clamp load over the years.
This is the primary reason OEMs seem to prefer them. They allow some expansion with heat and also contract back down as things cool plus compensate for compression of the hose underneath.
Most of what they're sealing against is a maximum of 15-20 PSI on average... nothing crazy.
In marine applications, the clamps tend to fail under the screws. Guessing due to localized stress corrosion as well as dissimilar metal corrosion-a much better corrosion test would be to spray working & tightened clamps and make sure the corrosion inducing solution gets into the worms gears
Excellent suggestion! Boeshield T-9 annually, plus checking for tightness regularly because hoses creep.
Great test. Shame you didn’t have more clamps like the Norma. We refer to hose clamps as Jubilee clips here in England. Made by Jubilee clips company. It would be interesting to see the comparison with them against those others. Also I find it interesting to see how poor most of the slotted clamps are. I avoid them at all costs, opting for easily accessible Jubilee clips that I find readily available here.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
What's the difference?
@@chrisbaker2903 they do look very much like the Norma clamps but it’s almost like an industry standard over here if you need something like that. They’re living off their name but I always have good experiences with them. They’re a bit like how people here call vacuum a hoover but hoover is a brand of vacuum.
I go to junkyards and look for old Mercedes or BMW cars, and pilfer the German made hose clamps, much better quality than the Chinese clamps, and they don’t cut the hoses when tightened
@@PatricioGarcia1973 they’re worth their weight in gold. Really nicely made some of them.
Glad to see breeze did well, as that's what I use. Not all stainless steel hose clamps have a stainless worm gear, which is important for applications where the clamp is buried.
Very impressive 🤙🏼
Thank you and hope you enjoy the video!
Hey PF! I had an idea come to me this summer while camping. Battery powered air mattress inflators! As always, love the videos.
Thank you for the video idea!
I'd like to see the bigger Ryobi pump if this one happens.
I've got the Ryobi 18volt compressor with the mattress inflation. It's basically 2 pumps in 1. Living in a travel trailer, it works great for me.
I hope he includes the Bauer inflator if he does that test
Get a mini leaf blower, inflates a mattress in less than a minute and is far more versatile than an air pump
I agree with Quinn. I am a journeyman die maker and worked for one of the American clamp companies previously. I noticed that you used several types of hose clamps designed for different uses not one style of clamp made for the same application. The ideal hose clamp you had appeared to be misshapen and possibly damaged or previously used. Having worked for a major clamp company I can also tell you that it is very possible that several of the clamps with different names were made in the same factory by the same company. At ideal there were several brand produced by changing the product stamp in the stamping die for that product
I haven’t watched in awhile, but I was on the internet looking for some high quality clamps and here you are coming through again. I love project farm.
Thanks!
I've been using Norma for decades. They're the factory hose clip on Rover and Land Rover vehicles, and always release after a decade or more in a vehicle engine bay.
Thanks for sharing.
I think most British cars use the superior Norma type design, thankfully! I can't abide those cruddy slotted things!
With the Akihisa brand, that style of clamp has the advantage that since it's not a pressed in thread and worm gear setup, you can apply significantly more torque to it without clamp failure to maximize sealing. It's basically limited by the torque limitations of the bolt you're cranking on, which I would guess is somewhere in the 30 ft-lbs. range. That's going to be a lot higher clamping force than anything else tested here.
Compare it to the usual farm hose clamp - wire with the tool to tighten it.
Great suggestion!
I have the tool for wire clamps and I really like it for permanent repairs like puting a new end on a garden hose. You can get it crazy tight if you want but when your done it is flush and wont snag on stuff, including your skin. If you cover it with heavy duty heat shrink you cannot even tell it's there.
That was the first thought that went through my mind as well.
@@ProjectFarm May I suggest not a competition, but more of a fact check on numerous Amazon items.
Another Channel did one on flashlight lumen ratings. How about grease gun PSI ratings, headlight lumen ratings, flashlight lumen ratings, claims of something being made of aluminum when it's actually made of pot steel, electronic component values, torque wrench accuracies, weight capacities, scale or gauge accuracy, etc. You know, stuff that an amateur DIY guy is likely to buy in Amazon for one or two projects just to get it done cheaply because he's on a budget or whatever.
Buy three products that are their top sellers or recommended by Amazon in various categories and test them versus reality.
I think it's getting to the point where Amazon is doing something illegal, at least they're benefiting from fraudulent statements.
And a zip tie
The amount of work that goes into these videos. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Great tests! I liked the corrosion testing. Having used tons of cheap and nice hose clamps, the ability to do the job isn't always that different, but how "stainless" the steel is, especially the screws, varies a ton. As does how easy they are to tighten and how well they handle tightening force and reuse. The key with a lot of them is not to over tighten and to fix whatever you're assembling if it needs too much force. The leak test was awesome. Money no object the Breeze, Norma, or Scandvik would probably be my pick.
Thanks!
I had a sailboat in Mexico for 6 years and I found that those typical, perforated type hose clamps don’t hold up well in a warm saltwater environment. They would often have just a hint of surface corrosion, yet would break with just a bit of bending. I changed every critical hose clamp (those below waterline, engine cooling, oil lines, etc.) to the Skandvik brand, non-perforated clamps, and they never failed. The rounded edges don’t cut up the hoses either.
Thanks for sharing.
Simply stated, Using these clamps over the years, I noticed there is a definite difference in their quality and strength. The majority are cheaply made and tend to jump the slots if tightened to much, while others do not. The worst offenders are from Harbor Freight.
all the stuff from Harbor Freight is of the lowest quality. The cheap price is OK for short term needs or in a hurry fixes, but otherwise skip the store. They do have a somewhat large selection of stuff which can come in handy.
@@gkprivate433 The Daytona jacks are decent
I have never had a HF clamp fail but then I'm only holding 12 to 50psi
@@gkprivate433 haha low quality products are sold everywhere. Don't judge the product based on the store.
@@gkprivate433 Also as a mechanic i can say that it is way more cost effective to buy 100 cheap hose clams instead of 10 high quality time since in most cases even the cheapest option will outlive the car and in my cases i never have 30+ bars in the cooling system for example xDDD. But i can see how some industries might buy those highend ones
Solid Demonstration, if you're doing regular maintenance.....I'm still a Breeze guy......most bang for the buck. If you are worried about failure.... For 10 bucks, get a Breeze assortment, and keep them in the toolbox or glove box.....never stranded if you need field repair.
Thanks for doing the science...You Rock!
You are welcome!
Great video. for pretty much any automotive application the spring clamps are best. When they frst came out in the 1980s, the initial reaction at the shop was they were just a cheap out, but it didn't take long to realize they work way better over the long term, and once you had the right pliers, they were easy to get on and off.
Always loved the Normas- just a high class clamp
I would've liked to see double wire clamps included in the test. I never knew there was such a wide range of clamps available.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I've found in my experience that they function fine, but come apart too easily. How well they actually function in relation to the band and worm-gear clamps, I would love to see as well.
I expect that their weight savings is their biggest benefit, quite frankly.
😅
Thank you for doing these kinds of tests. You are very creative on finding ways on how to test them.
You are welcome!
Thankyou sir. Great as always.
I came across breeze clamps last year and I’ve been telling local suppliers to get them. I found they can squeeze down on a poly water line sufficiently without heat and without stripping, others you may need to give some heat to the pipe then tighten again. I find with breeze clamps I can use one in a situation I may have used two of another clamp brand. The two piece design of the gear assembly is a winner in regards to not stripping out.
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
Interesting video. I’ve worked in the auto industry for years. Most manufacturers have gone to hose clamps similar to the clips and fasteners (constant tension hose clamps). The metal band that you need pliers to install. From my experience they are the better option for automotive applications. Sure they don’t hold high pressure on your video. Where they were install on the wrong size hose. Even still in auto they don’t need to. Automotive coolant systems are design to operate at around 15 psi. What these claps are great at is low maintenance and keeping constant tension during heat cycles. I’ve seen multiple cars over heat after technicians replaced these factory clamps with worm gear style clamps. Due to hose leaks.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Older vehicles I used to work on always had the constant tension clamps from the factory. There were special notched pliers used on these that would grab the band ends. Sometimes these were difficult to get the pliers on, so many replaced them with the "aircraft" style worm drive clamps.
New age autos dont have the same size hoses as the old school autos , so a shop is better to stock the adjustable size , rather than the constant pressure ones , i miss the 3/4 inch and 7/8 inch common heater hoses , now you wont know the size till you get it off the vehicle , forced to buy premolded alot more often , and the universal heater hose that your local parts store carrys ....is usually a joke ( cheap , flimsy , wimpy ) gotta buy that big money premolded hose , might as well buy real clamps , factory uses them cause a automated machine can install them and there properly torqued every time in a simple way , its harder for them to do that on the adjustable style ....
Yup, spring clamps are the only way to go with automotive. I've had band clamps leak after a while because of the heat cycles where they become looser over time, whereas the constant spring tension eliminates this problem. For higher pressure applications, the clamps with the bolt are far better than the worm gear, especially on smaller hoses. I pretty much quit using the worm gear ones altogether.
@@loboheeler - I use channel locks on spring clamps and haven't had a problem.
I would LOVE to see a similar video testing t-bolt clamps with brands like Vibrant Performance, Ideal, Oetiker, Clampco, Breeze, etc.
It would be a huge benefit to those into modified vehicles/ performance parts. One notable issue I've seen is the locking nut stripping itself on to the threads for the t-bolt after being tightened down resulting in a far less serviceable engine bay when things need to come back apart as they often do.
I was popping charge hoses like crazy before I switched everything to t-bolt clamps. They just get tighter than the worm clamps when working with large diameters
@@michaelhooboob I feel like t-bolt clamps were not well represented in this test. You could walk away feeling like they don't hold when, in fact, MANY people use t-bolts exclusively because nothing else worked.
Thanks for doing these videos! Amazing work.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Have used the Ideal & Breeze Constant Tension clamps on Race Cars, Marine, MotoCross, Sport/Street Bikes and Automotive applications for decades. Have never had one failure. Love that the worm gear doesn't cut into silicone/rubber hoses. And they have up well over the years under extreme conditions.
Thanks for the feedback.
Comments like yours are pure gold to me. If something survives a racing or extreme commercial environment like you described, it will survive anything a hobbyist can throw at it. Thanks again for the comment.
@@giggiddy Absolutely! Always love digging through the comments to find other peoples real world experience. Depending on the brand/batch/age some are now overseas sources unfortunately. But have not heard any horror stories because of it. Still great products either way
I was definitely rooting for mishimoto because it's the brand of my J pipe (which I really like!) in my subie but wow breeze might be the winner here
Great brand! Thank you
Great video. So many things are of lower quality in this era of "made in china". It's nice to see that there are still some high-quality clamp manufacturers out there and ... now we know who they are thanks to you!
Thanks for the feedback.
Another excellent suite of tests. Another test could perhaps be how well the head stands up to tightening with a screwdriver er. Most failures that I've seen have been the heads, with corriosion second. As a Brit, I'd really like to see our original "Jubilee clip" included if you ever re-run this. They are well worth paying for.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
My mother-in-law worked at a hose clamp factory years ago, I don't know what brand, they looked like the first ones you showed. I'm not going to run downstairs and check. Anyway... years ago she gave me an assortment of different sized clamps. Her daughter has not been my wife for over 32 years now but I still have those clamps, used one 2 days ago! I liked, still appreciate my mother-in-law. She appreciated **me** more than her daughter ever did! I get to think about it every time I use a clamp.
ABA (from Sweden) makes some damned good hose clamps; they have a couple product lines from the $2-3/ea to the $10/ea range.
Thanks for sharing.
Mikalor (commonly known as T bolt clamps) are awesome. Literally can't be compared to chappy worm gear clamps. Used these things on my car and never had a single leak after fitting these things. Worth 2x the price of a worm gear clamp
Thanks for the feedback.
One of the things that your hose clamp test didn't take into account was temperature. Most of those hose clamps will leak on the temperature of the hose changes. The one that will move with temperature changes is the spring style. That's the one that's used through automotive hose clamps as they provide constant pressure under varying temperature conditions.
It would be great if you could do a video test of the pressure style hose clamps in their own category under varying temperature conditions.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Thank you for including metric units in your results.
You are welcome!
I love to see you do some tests on DIY high temperature paints. Like grill paint.
Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm Add some "normal" paint to the high-heat linup as i have found normal rustoleum works just as well as most of them!
For automotive purposes over my many years of service experience I found that those spring clamps are the absolute best. Ford had a little difficulty with them breaking from time to time but for the most part if you want a clamp that will maintain a good compression over the life of the hose those can't be beat.
Thanks for the feedback.
When I remember, I always hit like as soon as I watch. There’s never anything to dislike in your videos. Very consistent, concise content.
Thanks!
I am always amazed how you manage to come up with these tests and execute them well. Your creativity is awesome.
Thanks!
The break strength test you should have had the screw pin shackles turned 180 degrees so the clamps were on a flat surface. I guess they all went through the same test but you ended up putting more stress on the outer edges of the clamp which is where they were giving out at the slot ends. Either way excellent test. I use the breeze brand at home the big kit with storage rack is awesome.
Thanks!
Yeah, overall I thought the Breeze brand seemed like the best choice for most hose clamp applications.
I always try to say “we’re gonna test that” at the same time as you do
sometimes it doesn’t work but I don’t care
great video as always, Todd 🙂
lol. I need to use that statement more often!!
And "Very Impressive"!
@@greenfire919 correct!
Great work as usual. But it was unclear to me which of the tested clamps have screws that will resist corrosion. Working in a marine environment I frequently encounter clamps marked "All Stainless" that have non-stainless screws that turn into a seized mass of rust and can only be removed with a hammer and chisel.
I think all of the standard clamps used SS screws except for the Breeze and Mishimoto clamps, so if you look at how the bands and housings fared in the corrosion test you'll get a good idea of how their worm gears fare because they're likely made from the same steel source. For the t-bolt style clamps, the Mishimoto also uses a plated steel bolt, but the Akihisha uses a SS bolt. The tensile and torque tests highlight why plated carbon steel screws are used in environments where corrosion isn't the highest priority...SS isn't the best steel to use where strength is an important consideration. If you need that strength in a marine/corrosive environment, I'd suggest using carbon steel and making it a point to inspect and replace at regular intervals.
And if strength isn't critical, 316 stainless will last much longer in marine applications than the much more common 304.
I second the desire to know the corrosion resistance of the screws. Platers tend to corrode and become problematic unless the task is one-and-done; I noted that some of the clamps tested claimed marine environment yet were clearly plated. Words are cheap.
Thank you for the metric measurements
You’re welcome!
The overall rating depends a lot on weighting of the various tests. Equal weighting, as here, is simple, but maybe not ideal for different applications. I like that you provided charts and the raw scores! The charts can help you see where the outliers are and which tests have maybe a couple of groups where positions within that group don't matter much.
Thanks!
I replaced the flexible oil pipes on a motorcycle with fluoro lined silicone. The recommended worm clips were actually too big. They went D shaped before the connection sealed. The next size down opened almost to separation sealed perfectly when tightened down.
Something your missing about the spring tension hose clamps is they all for thermal+ low pressure cycling over and over without damaging the hose. This is why they are used extensively on automotive cooling systems.
Thanks for the constructive feedback.
Agreed, but when replacing all the hoses on my old truck I found it was nearly impossible to source all the correct sizes (or at least within what I wanted to spend). I went with the Ideal constant tension style clamps and that was before watching this video.
In the construction field we have to wear a large range of safety gear and I've always wondered is there a difference is hard hats ? Also from personal experience ladders are not made equal my biggest disappointment was a DeWalt breaking down in the weather on my ladder rack only lasting 3 months before the fiber glass began splintering into my hands
Thanks for the suggestion.
The invaluable information this channel gives is extraordinary. I proudly watch every vid even if they don't currently pertain to me. Excellent stuff!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Great video choice. Would have really liked to see how well each of the clips stood up to loosening from vibration or pressure cycling. In general for all videos, would really like to see how a certain amount of durability testing affects performance of the part, in addition to when the part completely fails, which you already do.
Also surprised not to see jubilee clips on there!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
I have been using Breeze for years because that's what McMaster-Carr sends me when I order hose clamps. I have another supplier that sends me Ideal Tridon, and I like the Breeze better.
I should point out, though, that the benefit of the bolted style is that you can apply a great deal more tension with them. I would not use 30 inch pounds - I would be using more like 10 foot pounds or more, and at that tension it will not leak. The bolted style is MUCH better, but cruelly expensive. Nonetheless, I buy them for 3" hose vacuum connections because the connection matters.
Thanks for sharing.
Oetiker clamps are my personal favorite as they provide super high strength clamping, while being the most aesthetically pleasing imo. After that I tend to like t-clamp styles ones next. I really hate the standard slotted screw type ones
Those Norma/ska devil ones seem to be common on Volvos. I’ll be sure to scamvemge some next time I hit the junkyard, as they are miles better than the cheap autostore junk. I love oetiker style clamps but I hate how they’re one use. The reusable types I don’t like as much
@@mstrshkbrnnn1999 good, durable and non-reusable ones that stay on until you remove them or not so good reusable ones that may or may not be as durable? i'll take the first ones please. 😽
Yep its Oetikor style clamps for me unless it's for an unimportant application or one that needs to be serviced often.