And here i have been using a anglegrinder with a brush for 2 years to remove rust. My stepdad told me not to buy a sanblaster, because the sand had such a hard pressure it would destroy everything around the house. But here this guy is doing it, inside. Will buy.
They work great but they make hellacious mess. Word of caution: while using a similar blaster with even a hood on, I managed to get a glass bead in my eye. It got in there while removing my safety gear. That tiny glass bead felt like a chunk of pea gravel in my eye. It happened on a Friday evening. Couldn't wash it out myself so went to emergency room. They couldn't find it so gave me pain med to numb my eye. It was a long 2 days before I could get into eye surgeon who was able to locate the glass bead and remove it with out much problem. Everyone using this should be wearing a hood, safety glasses and mask. but very important, before taking any of it off, use blow gun to remove particles stuck to outside of your safety gear BEFORE you remove it. Nuff said.
Great tip to know much thanks I was thinking I could do this on my side panel on my 63' chevy nova boy was I wrong .I truely didn't know how to sand blast till and all the precosions along with it but after watching and reading your words I learned so much there's a lot more to it then I ever could have imagined..thanks bud I won't be doing this God bless 🙏
Man I can’t even tell you how happy it makes me feel to know I can do this myself! I’ve been in the process of restoring a trailer for my Jon Boat after I’ve already busted ass to get the boat looking nice. I was starting to think I was going to have to shell out money to somebody to blast the trailer but a brand new harbor freight just opened up in town and I know where I’ll be going very soon! Thanks again and the commentary was hilarious. Gotta love that elbow grease!
On the other hand, this video kind of sends the message that having the proper tools trumps elbow grease. I mean, compared to media blasting, wire wheels and sand paper are slower, more labor intensive, and will NEVER do as good of a job.
im retired i did my 50 years of fixing trucks and driving on the road,now im doing what i wanted to do restore two fords,great video i have one of these as well as a blastpot and a small luminem oxide gun,and a 6x3x3 cabinet.
I found you a few years ago . Then I lost ya. Now I have found you again! GREAT SHOWS /CLASS/SCHOOL YOU REMIND ME OF A FEW OF MY GOOD BUDDYS. I'M GETTING A SHOT BLAST GUN . THANK YOU MY FRIEND PETE!!!
Great video for those who do not know how to remove rust. Been doing rust removal for over 25 years. On my heavy rust I use Muriatic Acid mixed with water or no water. Just be cautious of the fumes. Best to do outside. With the wind blowing it away from you. Keep applying with paint brush, chipping, wire brushing, etc. to help remove faster. Once all the rust is off. (Actually better than sand blasting at this point, because it's going to get into the pores of the metal which sand can not do.) Once I have washed the metal surface with water and flushed all the Muriatic Acid. I used a mild rust remover from B&G Restorations, St. Catherines, Ontario, Canada. It's Phosphoric Acid (very mild) brush this on to remove the water stain rust from the Muriatic Acid operation. (Note: Muriatic Acid is a very violent Acid, but removes the rust fast.) Once the Phosphoric Acid again has removed the rust. Wash with hot water, and dry it fast with paper towels. Depending on the part. It's ready to Prime. If the part has other pieces welded or attached to it will rust in the corners again. At this point use what Pete's using the Harbour Freight self contained hopper sand blast gun or use a sand blast gun from Tricon, based in Cleveland, Ohio, USA. I'm using the Tricon, which has a hole close to the outlet tip, from there a flexible hose is attached, that runs to a tube you can stick in a bag of sand or aluminum oxide. Use this to blast the corners, like Pete did. Which does a super fine job. Blow it off and is ready to Prime. Merry Christmas to all! Paul, Brantford, Ontario, Canada Note: Will get exact info on B& G Products. I know they got a USA address in Niagara Falls, New York, USA. Good quality Stainless Steel small wire brushes (Not those Chinese pieces of junk) but stuff that is good. I highly recommend that Phosphoric Acid its very mild. If you used it right on the heavy rust it would take for ever to remove. But an excellent finalizer finish Acid.
Phosphoric acid is actually referred to as Naval Jelly. They use it as rust removal on Navy ships... but what i should say is not rust removal, but rust conversion as that is what it does. It converts the Rust to Ferrous Phosphate in a chemical reaction.. so the red rusty bits become phosphated a bluish colour with heavier rust going black and dusty. You can have zinc phosphates which create a zinc phosphate surface as well.. but pricier.. I think there is a Gun surfacing process using something like this.. Parkerizing?? expensive and comes out a metalic flat grey,, looks pretty good. The beauty of phosphoric acid is you can paint straight over the bluish areas (phosphated rust) with a good epoxy and you should not see any new rust appear in those spots. while Straight phosphoric works good and it is the cheapest way to go, there is off the shelf rust converters, ive used a few and most are shit. But one i used called Austech Rust convertor was alot better than straight phosphoric acid, while it reacts very similar, i found it better due to the other additives ( it think Iron salts are added) in it and how it cleaned up.. they obviously done some research. Other rust converters are just watered down Phosphoric acid... comelete garbage IMO/ you can just go buy phosphoric acid 89% pure.. not sure if you can get purer ?
Aaron James This Phosphoric Acid is sold by B&G Restorations, not a naval jelly. Loctite makes that sold at Walmart in the USA. To thick to spread. As I said the Muriatic does the heavy rust removal. Once rust is gone. Nice and clean. I totally wash it with water. Then use the B&G product. Looking to get exact address of manufacture. Did a google search they did not come up. Can buy in 1 litre or 4 litre sizes. In order to stop the Muriatic from rusting again, ri the B&G product must be used. Then that is flushed with hot water. Now depending on the part. You can sometimes wipe down quickly with paper towels and dry fast, and is ready to Prime paint. Other times it will start to mild rust again. At this point I would blast with the dry media. For a perfectly clean surface. Canadian Tire in Canada does sell a liquid rust remover, in small bottles. It does work the same way as the B&G product. I think Auto body supply stores sell a product called metal etch may work similar to B&G product. Just recently cleaned some hot rolled metal. I soaked the bars in muractic and water. Then wire brushed the rust and slag off. Cleaned up nice. Rinsed in water. Then used B&G product, flushed with hot water, air dried in the sun or use big torch to get water out of the metal and primed. Did not have to media blast on that part. No rust in the pores of the steel. Even large parts sandblasted. the sand can not get down in the pores. This is why if you let it sit even 12 or 24 hours the metal is turning brown. The rust is still there. The only way to get metal perfectly clean is use Acid. Once the cleanup Acid is used in this case the B&G product. Use a dry media sand or aluminum oxide to finish it clean.
henri So your from Canada I take it. Ok, I think NAPA may sell a metal etch. I have been using the B&G product for so long never looked into other products. But anyways after using Muriatic you always need to clean again with a mild rust remover.
@@diycarhome9151 That B&G product sounds like alot of work, the Austech one is alot simpler and i believe has the Iron salts which give you a better phosphated surface. And Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid, it is just loctite using the name given to phosphoric acid in the navy for there product because it probably contains phosphoric acid. Straight phosphoric acid is very viscous like oil, it is kind of like painting jelly. And you should not sand the phosphated surface or all your protection is gone and there is rust underneath... its really a coat clean and paint... any sanding should be done prior to remove heavy rust.
Pete I respect you so much. You're right not so many people use the term, "elbow grease". I'm a hard working man n love what I do. Thank you for sharing your knowledge n being real. Take care
Pete is so funny and really after a hard day at work seeing him just makes learning so much fun, easy and sometimes hilarious! Great videos, Thanks Pete!
that was an excellent demonstration of blasting with a simple gun! I'm taking the plunge and want to see if it can clean up weld slag, I expect it will clean up flux core residue but not so sure about stick with the thick hard slag. sometimes you just have to try things for yourself.
I am super stoked to try this. Going to Harbor freight tomorrow to pick one up. We have a 379 Pete that I am going to strip the frame of rust and repaint. I love a happy ending! Thank you
You got my sub, also, at the end of the video when you blew yourself off, for a second, I thought you still had the sandblaster hooked up. I thought "dang, my generation's not made of that" Cheers.
Damn Pete... you went and did it again... I'm sold on the little Sand Blaster.....Crazy I was just complaining about the sandblaster of mine being to Big on Smaller Jobs and Hard to get places ...thank you for being there... thank you
Great suggestion. I bought one from WalMart, and does work but it is cumberson to set up & use; the Harbor Freight unit does a better job. I particularly like the downdraft hopper. Thank you.
great demonstration. I bought that sand blaster but I didnt get anything close to his results because I was too cheap to buy the Aluminum Oxide. Im heading back to HFT to pick up a bag of the right stuff.
I do have a Harbor Freight sand blaster the mini tank one, but that hand held one I will get, I just started a 66 Chevelle and it does have surface rust that I will have to blast, I have been on you tube looking for some what quick solution's to blasting I have to do the fenders and doors just lie you are doing here in this video, and as well as the interior panels to combat the surface rust and this looks like a great solution, I have sand blasted before and it does require a 30 to 60 gal. compressor of which I have, and also a lot of patience, but as you show it is worth all the time, now I just have to figure out how to do the underside of the body, thanks for the video, it helps a lot.
Pete, that was a great reminder to use dry air. They will need a device to keep moisture out of the air before painting. Also, as you have said, use a dedicated 50 foot hose for painting as compressor oil and moisture gets inside the rubber of the hose. Still learning and remembering what lesions that Pete teaches. Thanks for the information. That is why I but a tee shirt as I can afford it, to pay it forward! Thanks Pete!
Asalam Alaikum (peace be upon you)... from your Muslim American Friend Very informative Pete. May the Good Lord bless you always brother. Stay blessed and keep up the good work!
"your Muslim American Friend" - Thanks "Mo" (but from the religion of peace) - Quran 8:12 "I will cast terror into the hearts of those who disbelieve. Therefore strike off their heads and strike off every fingertip of them" - We do appreciate your peaceful sentiments (BUT now google : taqiyya). = Lie to advance the cause of Islam, gaining the trust of non-believers in order to draw out their vulnerability and defeat them" - Again, thanks for your peaceful sentiments "Mo" - BUT I'd rather & instead, Remember 9/11...
These very same blasters also work good to soda blast using sodium carbonate, just used mine to soda blast some old vintage motorcycle carburetors & they look new again & work great considering they were left with water & gasoline in them since 1988 . If you go to a feed mill you can get 50lb bags of it much cheaper than Harbor freights 39.99 for a 50lb bag, I paid 16.00 at my local feed mill.
Thanks My Friend Pete. Today is Day1 of my 1955 Chevy Truck Restoration. I’m starting with your suggestion of spot rust removal. Headlight buckets 1st.
Your very funny!! Like the dry humor 😂😂 Lazy correct. I'm 59 and loved working on cars years ago . Unfortunately I struggle today with arthritis. Miss all classic cars I had from the 1960's-70's. Miss my Sunbeam Tiger. Had to sell it to pay bills when I was sick. Used to love to paint and do auto body work.
I'm needing to blast the underside of a 78 Bronco body. Although this is a spot blaster, do you think it would work? Not a ton of rust; just paint removal. Would make a mess, but I live on a farm and can do it outside my shop.
Thanks Pete! I'm teaching myself how to restore my Grandfather's 72 chevy caprice and I want to do as much as I can without a shop. I appreciate you greatly and I'm heading out to buy sand blasters to remove a bunch of sand blasting tools.
Pete thank u for your dedication on making these videos and your knowledge on paint and body work cant waitbtil u get to your new place and get the hell out of dallas thanks pete and minnie
@@denispoirier5442 I know, right? Well, all of us with eyes to see and ears to hear know it's the filth of satan at work to mock God's holy name in any which way possible.
Holy hella I have been busting my ass doing all this with a grinder and sand paper!!! I am definitely going to Harbor Freight to get one of these bad boys!! 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌I restore old horse trailers and this will make my life a lot easier!
I don't paint a lot of anything but I really enjoy your channel. No bullshit straight forward American commentary and direction. I appreciate the no political correct crap. I say "Thank You"!!!. And now I am going to watch and learn me something.
Thanks my friend Pete. Also available at HF are great big bags of soda which works well and cleans up easily. Do your blasting outside then wash away with the garden hose. It will not kill the grass & flowers. Much nicer to wash the soda out of your hair, clothes and all the places the media ends up than sand. A cardboard box and a trash bag makes an easy "cabinet" for containing some of the mess and reclaims a little too.
I'm buying one tomorrow! I have an 2006 F150 that has a spot on the rear wheel well opening that has two bubbles in it and the back side has less rust than what you're showing! I will clean it after that and use a zinc product to seal it. On the paint side I doubt I would need a teaspoon of filler! Sand. prime, wet sand, paint, clear and wet sand with 2000. A good polish and I think you saved my rear!
Tim Harmon Yes.... same here brother... I was just telling a friend the other day that I need a smaller Sand blaster... to do my old Harley Frames.... and there it is...
I have one like this at home that my brother in law gave me. I didn't think it would work THAT WELL! Really gonna have to try it out. I have a BBQ pit I need to clean up.
Word. Been finding some pretty good stuff there. Daytona 3 ton jack and earthquake xt stubby impact have both been great grabs. The icon torque wrenches on on my radar
Thanks for the video Pete. Sometimes it's the little things that seem to be the best information. I'm restoring a '65 GMC truck and it needs a good bit of blasting. I'm going to get one of these and try it out. Thanks again.
That tool is for spot blasting only. I wouldn't do an entire frame with it. It worked well with the lower portion of my radiator support in a car project im working on.
Wow, just when I am interested in going into sandblasting as a tool, prices more than doubled on it. HF don't even sell that particular item, they moved up to a $30 tool and the media costs twice as much as the weight. Where you used to buy a 40 pound media for $20, is now a 50 pound media for $70!
By by Miss American pie.....still married to that same little girl YOU sang to. LoL . It’s good to see you doing the custom stuff only now you get to do it while doing the show...too cool. I retired and bought a small farm and am mellow now. Can’t believe it’s been 31 years. Anyway it’s good to see ya. Stay cool. Your friend, Roy Post script: I think of you whenever I see a red wide glide shovel or hear your karaoke song.
I actually use one of these with simple baking soda to clean carbs. I own a small engine shop and this thing is perfect thing for cleaning corrosion from the outside of carbs and the inside of float bowls. Wouldn’t know what to do without one of these and my ultrasonic cleaner. Made the carbs for my 76 Honda GL1000 look like new!
3:25 it's not just about being lazy, it's mostly that we dont have the time. And also the sandblasting finish is much better and doesn't leave scratches and marks.
If anyone has time to flip through their phones they have time for a project. Not having time is hilarious. Total bs. There is always time to prioritize.
I have a question, you said in the video you don't like to use sand blasting which made me wonder what other methods do you prefer in your day to day basis?
Hold the gun just close enough to strip the material, plus you get a wider pattern. I use an Eastwood blast cabinet for smaller parts with Aluminum Oxide. You need a compressor with lots of volume.
Thanks Pete! That "get off your butt are you one of those lazy peoples" made me slap my help. Now hiring! Thanks again. But really nobody can hang with this. I bought a soda blaster years ago and it's exhausting messing with that big tank on small jobs. That little one is perfect for small jobs. Good looking out brotha.
@cheap cigs Mmmm........I find that pretty illogical and completely unscientific to say that, when without truth the damn thing don't work and without love who'd build such a thing... Yer thinking with yer dick not yer head.
Im going to get one of those guns this weekend. Thanks pete i always wondered how good they were and evidently if its good enough for my friend pete its good enough for me.
I had no idea how affordable that could be for something like that! I'll be investing in this blaster. I havent got any cars to work on. but other metal projects thats rusting away. My Friend Pete is indeed, My Friend Pete!
And here i have been using a anglegrinder with a brush for 2 years to remove rust. My stepdad told me not to buy a sanblaster, because the sand had such a hard pressure it would destroy everything around the house. But here this guy is doing it, inside. Will buy.
Anglegrinder method is very crude. Can't get into any details, and takes huge effort.
If you use on auto body or other sheet metal, be careful to manage heat or you'll cause warping.
They work great but they make hellacious mess. Word of caution: while using a similar blaster with even a hood on, I managed to get a glass bead in my eye. It got in there while removing my safety gear. That tiny glass bead felt like a chunk of pea gravel in my eye. It happened on a Friday evening. Couldn't wash it out myself so went to emergency room. They couldn't find it so gave me pain med to numb my eye. It was a long 2 days before I could get into eye surgeon who was able to locate the glass bead and remove it with out much problem. Everyone using this should be wearing a hood, safety glasses and mask. but very important, before taking any of it off, use blow gun to remove particles stuck to outside of your safety gear BEFORE you remove it. Nuff said.
X-Man thx men
You warn people, but they wont listen.
Great tip to know much thanks I was thinking I could do this on my side panel on my 63' chevy nova boy was I wrong .I truely didn't know how to sand blast till and all the precosions along with it but after watching and reading your words I learned so much there's a lot more to it then I ever could have imagined..thanks bud I won't be doing this God bless 🙏
Cletus Clem you can't teach stupid.
Did you tell the eye surgeon to get off his ass too?
Man I can’t even tell you how happy it makes me feel to know I can do this myself! I’ve been in the process of restoring a trailer for my Jon Boat after I’ve already busted ass to get the boat looking nice. I was starting to think I was going to have to shell out money to somebody to blast the trailer but a brand new harbor freight just opened up in town and I know where I’ll be going very soon! Thanks again and the commentary was hilarious. Gotta love that elbow grease!
On the other hand, this video kind of sends the message that having the proper tools trumps elbow grease. I mean, compared to media blasting, wire wheels and sand paper are slower, more labor intensive, and will NEVER do as good of a job.
3:32 to about 3:50. Truer words have never been spoken.
Thumbs up, old man 👍.
Haha. Yes.
Good sound. For someone like me that has trouble hearing your video is a god send. Easy to hear your instructions a tips. Thanks.
im retired i did my 50 years of fixing trucks and driving on the road,now im doing what i wanted to do restore two fords,great video i have one of these as well as a blastpot and a small luminem oxide gun,and a 6x3x3 cabinet.
I found you a few years ago . Then I lost ya. Now I have found you again! GREAT SHOWS /CLASS/SCHOOL YOU REMIND ME OF A FEW OF MY GOOD BUDDYS. I'M GETTING A SHOT BLAST GUN . THANK YOU MY FRIEND PETE!!!
Great video for those who do not know how to remove rust.
Been doing rust removal for over 25 years.
On my heavy rust I use Muriatic Acid mixed with water or no water. Just be cautious of the fumes. Best to do outside. With the wind blowing it away from you. Keep applying with paint brush, chipping, wire brushing, etc. to help remove faster. Once all the rust is off. (Actually better than sand blasting at this point, because it's going to get into the pores of the metal which sand can not do.)
Once I have washed the metal surface with water and flushed all the Muriatic Acid.
I used a mild rust remover from B&G Restorations, St. Catherines, Ontario, Canada. It's Phosphoric Acid (very mild) brush this on to remove the water stain rust from the Muriatic Acid operation.
(Note: Muriatic Acid is a very violent Acid, but removes the rust fast.)
Once the Phosphoric Acid again has removed the rust. Wash with hot water, and dry it fast with paper towels. Depending on the part. It's ready to Prime. If the part has other pieces welded or attached to it will rust in the corners again. At this point use what Pete's using the Harbour Freight self contained hopper sand blast gun or use a sand blast gun from Tricon, based in Cleveland, Ohio, USA. I'm using the Tricon, which has a hole close to the outlet tip, from there a flexible hose is attached, that runs to a tube you can stick in a bag of sand or aluminum oxide.
Use this to blast the corners, like Pete did. Which does a super fine job. Blow it off and is ready to Prime.
Merry Christmas to all!
Paul, Brantford, Ontario, Canada
Note: Will get exact info on B& G Products. I know they got a USA address in Niagara Falls, New York, USA.
Good quality Stainless Steel small wire brushes (Not those Chinese pieces of junk) but stuff that is good.
I highly recommend that Phosphoric Acid its very mild. If you used it right on the heavy rust it would take for ever to remove. But an excellent finalizer finish Acid.
Phosphoric acid is actually referred to as Naval Jelly. They use it as rust removal on Navy ships... but what i should say is not rust removal, but rust conversion as that is what it does. It converts the Rust to Ferrous Phosphate in a chemical reaction.. so the red rusty bits become phosphated a bluish colour with heavier rust going black and dusty. You can have zinc phosphates which create a zinc phosphate surface as well.. but pricier.. I think there is a Gun surfacing process using something like this.. Parkerizing?? expensive and comes out a metalic flat grey,, looks pretty good.
The beauty of phosphoric acid is you can paint straight over the bluish areas (phosphated rust) with a good epoxy and you should not see any new rust appear in those spots.
while Straight phosphoric works good and it is the cheapest way to go, there is off the shelf rust converters, ive used a few and most are shit.
But one i used called Austech Rust convertor was alot better than straight phosphoric acid, while it reacts very similar, i found it better due to the other additives ( it think Iron salts are added) in it and how it cleaned up.. they obviously done some research.
Other rust converters are just watered down Phosphoric acid... comelete garbage IMO/ you can just go buy phosphoric acid 89% pure.. not sure if you can get purer ?
Klean-Strip 1 gal. Phosphoric Prep and Etch
At home depot is great stuff...i go to buffual ny to get mine
Aaron James
This Phosphoric Acid is sold by B&G Restorations, not a naval jelly.
Loctite makes that sold at Walmart in the USA. To thick to spread. As I said the Muriatic does the heavy rust removal. Once rust is gone. Nice and clean. I totally wash it with water. Then use the B&G product. Looking to get exact address of manufacture. Did a google search they did not come up. Can buy in 1 litre or 4 litre sizes. In order to stop the Muriatic from rusting again, ri the B&G product must be used. Then that is flushed with hot water. Now depending on the part. You can sometimes wipe down quickly with paper towels and dry fast, and is ready to Prime paint. Other times it will start to mild rust again. At this point I would blast with the dry media. For a perfectly clean surface.
Canadian Tire in Canada does sell a liquid rust remover, in small bottles. It does work the same way as the B&G product.
I think Auto body supply stores sell a product called metal etch may work similar to B&G product.
Just recently cleaned some hot rolled metal. I soaked the bars in muractic and water. Then wire brushed the rust and slag off. Cleaned up nice. Rinsed in water. Then used B&G product, flushed with hot water, air dried in the sun or use big torch to get water out of the metal and primed. Did not have to media blast on that part. No rust in the pores of the steel.
Even large parts sandblasted. the sand can not get down in the pores. This is why if you let it sit even 12 or 24 hours the metal is turning brown. The rust is still there. The only way to get metal perfectly clean is use Acid. Once the cleanup Acid is used in this case the B&G product. Use a dry media sand or aluminum oxide to finish it clean.
henri
So your from Canada I take it.
Ok, I think NAPA may sell a metal etch. I have been using the B&G product for so long never looked into other products. But anyways after using Muriatic you always need to clean again with a mild rust remover.
@@diycarhome9151 That B&G product sounds like alot of work, the Austech one is alot simpler and i believe has the Iron salts which give you a better phosphated surface. And Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid, it is just loctite using the name given to phosphoric acid in the navy for there product because it probably contains phosphoric acid. Straight phosphoric acid is very viscous like oil, it is kind of like painting jelly.
And you should not sand the phosphated surface or all your protection is gone and there is rust underneath... its really a coat clean and paint... any sanding should be done prior to remove heavy rust.
Pete I respect you so much. You're right not so many people use the term, "elbow grease". I'm a hard working man n love what I do. Thank you for sharing your knowledge n being real. Take care
Pete is so funny and really after a hard day at work seeing him just makes learning so much fun, easy and sometimes hilarious! Great videos, Thanks Pete!
Great pitch....very conservative and old fashioned. You should run for office. Bless you!
50 Lbs. of Playsand at Lowes for $4.68. Seems fine enough/a little sifting maybe.
that was an excellent demonstration of blasting with a simple gun! I'm taking the plunge and want to see if it can clean up weld slag, I expect it will clean up flux core residue but not so sure about stick with the thick hard slag. sometimes you just have to try things for yourself.
WHAT??? NO PARTICIPATION TROPHY? I'M GOING TO MY SAFE SPACE AND CALLING MY COUNSELOR RIGHT NOW!!! LMAO!!! GOOD STUFF PETE! ALWAYS THUMBS UP!!!
I am super stoked to try this. Going to Harbor freight tomorrow to pick one up. We have a 379 Pete that I am going to strip the frame of rust and repaint. I love a happy ending! Thank you
This is the first time I have watched your videos, which are suitable materials. 'm subscribing
You got my sub, also, at the end of the video when you blew yourself off, for a second, I thought you still had the sandblaster hooked up. I thought "dang, my generation's not made of that" Cheers.
Damn Pete... you went and did it again... I'm sold on the little Sand Blaster.....Crazy I was just complaining about the sandblaster of mine being to Big on Smaller Jobs and Hard to get places ...thank you for being there... thank you
I’ve been meaning to buy one for the longest. Can’t go wrong for the money.
Great suggestion. I bought one from WalMart, and does work but it is cumberson to set up & use; the Harbor Freight unit does a better job. I particularly like the downdraft hopper. Thank you.
Pete for President!
great demonstration. I bought that sand blaster but I didnt get anything close to his results because I was too cheap to buy the Aluminum Oxide. Im heading back to HFT to pick up a bag of the right stuff.
Portable Sand Blaster is your Friend..Good stuff.
I do have a Harbor Freight sand blaster the mini tank one, but that hand held one I will get, I just started a 66 Chevelle and it does have surface rust that I will have to blast, I have been on you tube looking for some what quick solution's to blasting I have to do the fenders and doors just lie you are doing here in this video, and as well as the interior panels to combat the surface rust and this looks like a great solution, I have sand blasted before and it does require a 30 to 60 gal. compressor of which I have, and also a lot of patience, but as you show it is worth all the time, now I just have to figure out how to do the underside of the body, thanks for the video, it helps a lot.
Pete, that was a great reminder to use dry air. They will need a device to keep moisture out of the air before painting. Also, as you have said, use a dedicated 50 foot hose for painting as compressor oil and moisture gets inside the rubber of the hose. Still learning and remembering what lesions that Pete teaches. Thanks for the information. That is why I but a tee shirt as I can afford it, to pay it forward! Thanks Pete!
Asalam Alaikum (peace be upon you)... from your Muslim American Friend
Very informative Pete. May the Good Lord bless you always brother. Stay blessed and keep up the good work!
"your Muslim American Friend" - Thanks "Mo" (but from the religion of peace) - Quran 8:12 "I will cast terror into the hearts of those who disbelieve. Therefore strike off their heads and strike off every fingertip of them" - We do appreciate your peaceful sentiments (BUT now google : taqiyya). = Lie to advance the cause of Islam, gaining the trust of non-believers in order to draw out their vulnerability and defeat them" - Again, thanks for your peaceful sentiments "Mo" - BUT I'd rather & instead, Remember 9/11...
These very same blasters also work good to soda blast using sodium carbonate, just used mine to soda blast some old vintage motorcycle carburetors & they look new again & work great considering they were left with water & gasoline in them since 1988 . If you go to a feed mill you can get 50lb bags of it much cheaper than Harbor freights 39.99 for a 50lb bag, I paid 16.00 at my local feed mill.
Thanks My Friend Pete.
Today is Day1 of my 1955 Chevy Truck Restoration.
I’m starting with your suggestion of spot rust removal.
Headlight buckets 1st.
Great channel every time I watch I learn something new.
I wasn’t sure if I liked but at the end, “get off your ass” made it special. Motivational. Ty Pete
Your very funny!! Like the dry humor 😂😂 Lazy correct. I'm 59 and loved working on cars years ago . Unfortunately I struggle today with arthritis. Miss all classic cars I had from the 1960's-70's. Miss my Sunbeam Tiger. Had to sell it to pay bills when I was sick. Used to love to paint and do auto body work.
You are the best Pete, your channel is #1
Honestly, you had me at 3:30-3:50 mark, so true my friend. If your hands ain’t dirty, it doesn’t count! Lol
Gotta love the navy dungaree shirt. Even still got the creases.
I'm needing to blast the underside of a 78 Bronco body. Although this is a spot blaster, do you think it would work? Not a ton of rust; just paint removal. Would make a mess, but I live on a farm and can do it outside my shop.
very good mate ,just down to the point and a good point about laziness how true, also we can hear you instead of a whisper thanks
Thanks Pete! I'm teaching myself how to restore my Grandfather's 72 chevy caprice and I want to do as much as I can without a shop. I appreciate you greatly and I'm heading out to buy sand blasters to remove a bunch of sand blasting tools.
Thankyou for a no baloney video.I will buy the tool.Great car,that's from my era.
Pete thank u for your dedication on making these videos and your knowledge on paint and body work cant waitbtil u get to your new place and get the hell out of dallas thanks pete and minnie
Jesus Christ, the real video starts after the 10:00 mark.
Cry about it. You didn't have to watch it. And everyone else liked it. Just saying
Thanks for the heads up :)
F$%#ing Daniel larios who cares!
Why " Christ " & not Krishna , Allah, or Buddha .
@@denispoirier5442 I know, right? Well, all of us with eyes to see and ears to hear know it's the filth of satan at work to mock God's holy name in any which way possible.
Holy hella I have been busting my ass doing all this with a grinder and sand paper!!! I am definitely going to Harbor Freight to get one of these bad boys!! 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌I restore old horse trailers and this will make my life a lot easier!
We used this method on a 2nd Gen Camaro and even an old backhoe. WORKS GREAT!
I don't paint a lot of anything but I really enjoy your channel. No bullshit straight forward American commentary and direction. I appreciate the no political correct crap. I say "Thank You"!!!. And now I am going to watch and learn me something.
God bless America. Trump 2020.
Was going to chemically removal all the paint on my car, until I saw his video. Thanks Pete!!!
Great video I'm definitely going to get to Harbor Freight get the gun and get and get to work on some small spot rust, thanks for making this video.
I bought one + used the "Black Beauty" sand on my Wheelhorse ,+ it worked great!
Can't wait to buy one!! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks my friend Pete.
Also available at HF are great big bags of soda which works well and cleans up easily.
Do your blasting outside then wash away with the garden hose.
It will not kill the grass & flowers.
Much nicer to wash the soda out of your hair, clothes and all the places the media ends up than sand.
A cardboard box and a trash bag makes an easy "cabinet" for containing some of the mess and reclaims a little too.
Thanks for the Tech Tips.. Didn't know HF sold soda too.. Ill have to check it out and do a video on it.... Take it easy!
Thanks a lot Pete
I'm buying one tomorrow! I have an 2006 F150 that has a spot on the rear wheel well opening that has two bubbles in it and the back side has less rust than what you're showing! I will clean it after that and use a zinc product to seal it. On the paint side I doubt I would need a teaspoon of filler! Sand. prime, wet sand, paint, clear and wet sand with 2000. A good polish and I think you saved my rear!
damn! i've walked by those for years. didnt know thaey worked that well.
Tim Harmon Yes.... same here brother... I was just telling a friend the other day that I need a smaller Sand blaster... to do my old Harley Frames.... and there it is...
yes me to always tough it was just some cheap useless crap. Now i've just bought one for 15$ on Aliexpress.
@@drefhill definately gonna get one from Harbor Freights to use my my 63 chevy .Very kool
I have one like this at home that my brother in law gave me. I didn't think it would work THAT WELL! Really gonna have to try it out. I have a BBQ pit I need to clean up.
It’s nice video we’ll done thank you 😊
harbor freight for the win! i really think it's time to stop bashing them. their stuff is getting better all the time.
Word. Been finding some pretty good stuff there. Daytona 3 ton jack and earthquake xt stubby impact have both been great grabs. The icon torque wrenches on on my radar
It's been getting more expensive for the good stuff too
Beautifull .. how many gallons compressor do you used? .
Very nice work Pete!
Good to know! I have a harbor freight gun. Now ill have try it! Thanks
Nice job.
Thanks for the video Pete. Sometimes it's the little things that seem to be the best information. I'm restoring a '65 GMC truck and it needs a good bit of blasting. I'm going to get one of these and try it out. Thanks again.
That tool is for spot blasting only. I wouldn't do an entire frame with it. It worked well with the lower portion of my radiator support in a car project im working on.
Wow, just when I am interested in going into sandblasting as a tool, prices more than doubled on it. HF don't even sell that particular item, they moved up to a $30 tool and the media costs twice as much as the weight. Where you used to buy a 40 pound media for $20, is now a 50 pound media for $70!
Wow r u friggin serious???
Get er done PETE. Thanks very informative
Thanks for the great demonstration!!! Very useful tool, gonna go pick one up tomorrow.
man you just solved my problem of getting rust off the frame of my hog,PETE TAKE A BOW BUDDY,DAMN I WISH I COULD BUY YOU A BEER,THANKS
Good job on the video and demo. Exactly what I needed to know about autobody spot sandblasting. Thanks :-)
Thanks for the vid. Cheers from 🇨🇦
By by Miss American pie.....still married to that same little girl YOU sang to. LoL . It’s good to see you doing the custom stuff only now you get to do it while doing the show...too cool. I retired and bought a small farm and am mellow now. Can’t believe it’s been 31 years. Anyway it’s good to see ya. Stay cool. Your friend, Roy
Post script: I think of you whenever I see a red wide glide shovel or hear your karaoke song.
Awesome Sauce
I am gonna grab one for old woodworking tool restoration!
I actually use one of these with simple baking soda to clean carbs. I own a small engine shop and this thing is perfect thing for cleaning corrosion from the outside of carbs and the inside of float bowls. Wouldn’t know what to do without one of these and my ultrasonic cleaner. Made the carbs for my 76 Honda GL1000 look like new!
John Acuff baking soda huh? Thanks for the tip, probably not too abrasive
3:25 it's not just about being lazy, it's mostly that we dont have the time. And also the sandblasting finish is much better and doesn't leave scratches and marks.
If anyone has time to flip through their phones they have time for a project. Not having time is hilarious. Total bs. There is always time to prioritize.
man, great video. I want to be your apprentice! I appreciate the no-bullshit approach.
When he talked about elbow grease and laziness nowadays he got a sub from me. I agree entirely. It’s hard to find a decent worker these days.
Nice tips!
Thank you, just found me a new tool to ask my hubby to buy for me. He likes to buy them and watch me use them.
Get her done! My friend Pete! Great video Sir!
Thanks Pete. Seems like a fine product for the price
Good stuff. I need one to clean the brake caliper and more parts under my car that are rusty.
Merry Christmas Pete and thank you very much for all your help and tips
I have a question, you said in the video you don't like to use sand blasting which made me wonder what other methods do you prefer in your day to day basis?
These videos are cool and informative. Thanks for putting them out there
God bless you for sharing with us your knowledge and skills
Hold the gun just close enough to strip the material, plus you get a wider pattern. I use an Eastwood blast cabinet for smaller parts with Aluminum Oxide. You need a compressor with lots of volume.
I use fine coal slag for media for blasting . It's cheap and works well.
Did you put this up for me ? Thanks Pete
Hope you’re feeling better Pete
Thanks Pete! That "get off your butt are you one of those lazy peoples" made me slap my help. Now hiring! Thanks again. But really nobody can hang with this. I bought a soda blaster years ago and it's exhausting messing with that big tank on small jobs. That little one is perfect for small jobs. Good looking out brotha.
Nice job! That little spot blaster works pretty well.
Hi Pete. Sometimes cheap is good. lol.
Merry Christmas to you folks and may our LORD Jesus bless you all and keep you all safe.
@cheap cigs Mmmm........I find that pretty illogical and completely unscientific to say that, when without truth the damn thing don't work and without love who'd build such a thing... Yer thinking with yer dick not yer head.
I like the way you talk and act .you really deliver the right actitud
Merry Christmas to you and Minnie!
I have one and Pete is right on as usual. Thanks Much.
Im going to get one of those guns this weekend. Thanks pete i always wondered how good they were and evidently if its good enough for my friend pete its good enough for me.
if a blasted a bicycle, would the blasting have any affect on the welds?
Your the man harbor freight should sponsor you...👌🏽🤙
What is the recommended specs of the air compressor needed for this?
Great tool. Thanks Pete.
Again..ty so much Pete I'm getting one. Sanding by hand sucks!!!
I had no idea how affordable that could be for something like that! I'll be investing in this blaster. I havent got any cars to work on. but other metal projects thats rusting away. My Friend Pete is indeed, My Friend Pete!
Works well for small jobs . Thank you
Nice job Pete bought one haven't tried mine yet but thanx for suggesting the moisture filter
Love it Pete.
I've been following you for years. I owned a soda blast firm in the uk and boy was it facinating.
What do you treat the metal with after sandblasting before priming?
I really liked this review. Wondering if the little gun would work with walnut shell. I have a few spots I need to clean out removing old paint
AWESOME. THANKS I was wondering if that thing works ive seen it before