Wiring is really not that bad. You’ll have to force yourself to look at it one wire/circuit at a time. Once you’ve done one, it gets easier. You’re doing a great job!!!
Exactly! The wiring for this cars are really simple (compared with a modern car), with the basic understanding of it you can replicate, or even better improve the system (with, for example, adding relays for the lights subwiring, hiding wires in the wheel wells, etc). Great job by the way!
I've been watching some videos, especially the one SuperFastMatt did about wiring the whole car, it really brakes it down. Funny enough, bringing the wires to the engine bay seems easier than bringing it inside the car to wherever they go. Appreciate it!
I love this series its one of the greatest going on right now. Pro tip for the wiring, the HP academy lessons on wiring are a great help. I was in the same boat as you a year ago and after going through their instructional videos I was able to wire up an old Volvo from scratch with a bit of confidence. I'm still not a wiring expert but I feel like I have enough knowledge to at least not make any huge wiring mistakes. Cheers!
I saw their videos and started going through it, they're really great! I also like a video SuperFastMat did about rewiring an entire car, its super to the point and really helped my understanding so far. Thanks!
I just reconnected all of the wiring on my 87 GTI, what saved my life was wrapping each connection in painters tape to make a tag, then wrote (to the best of my ability) where it went, THEN took a picture of the wire with the writing where I unplugged it from. Seriously can't imagine figuring it out without doing all that. Tedious but 100% worth it.
Im probably a little to late for labeling, but I did get a few on there. This engine bay seems simple enough, but im hoping to learn how to make some nice clean wiring with weatherproof seals. I'm actually getting excited for it
Good gosh! I really like ALL your videos. This one is well up to your usual superb standard. Your explanation voiceovers more than made up for those little spots where you couldn't wear a microphone. The camera angles and editing perfectly support your exposition. They draw this viewer right into paying rapt attention to what you're doing! Your film...whets all our appetites for more! Well done!
Thanks for taking the time to say this, it really means a lot that people appreciate the time it takes not only to do the work, but to make it look and feel right. Thank you!
I just got myself a 1976 Corolla. I don't plan on doing the work myself but this is a great series for someone learning the details of the 70's corollas. At this point i'm just doing research on what I should get done to restore it, what I want and what my pockets can afford
Welding is a piece of cake. Its everything leading up to it that's a pain, but you're 95% there already. Just cutting out the rust and fabricating replacement panels now and you're good. I'm amazed at how well that enclosure worked, I expected to see way more grit and dust blown out of there.
I’m surprised too, today I had to do some touch ups without the tent and things went everywhere, it was a pain. Welding starts tomorrow, pretty excited
Excited to see this through to the end. I've always wanted to do full teardown restorations on cars/motorcycles but still don't have the space (or money). Hopefully some day!
Thanks man, this is the first teardown i've done too, so I say just get started and have a good learning experience. One tool at a time and one day at a time
@@sansberlin just stripping everything, glass, interior, etc. And fixing rust everywhere. Maybe that was already your plan but I assumed not since you didn't take it off prior to tipping the car over. You've done so much work already I just meant why not go all the way. that always runs the risk of too much cost, losing steam in the project etc.
@@alexabc123 the plan is to keep it simple and learn the skills so that when the dream car comes around, I can do a complete resto. This is the first project, and the first time ever doing this, so gutting the car would be too much for me
I Immediately subbed because I saw you doing it the right way with a sandblaster and because you use the same deadman valve as mine. I'm glad seeing someone olse using it too. One tip: put the air compressor on a piece of plywood and stuck up against the sandblasting pot in order for the comp to shake the media down at the botyom of the pickup
I watched your initial Corolla video from 3 months ago, and it popped up again in my feed today and I indulged by watching it a second time! Love the car. I even went on Facebook to see if there were any for sale local to me 😅
They’re hard to find up here in Canada but I see a few on the west coast in the states. Slowly making its way to completion from the first video’s “idea” of how this would turn out
Great job Joel been following this build from the beginning. My first car was a Corolla have soft spot for them. Keep up the great work we will continue supporting you. Can't wait to see the final results. Takecare.
You've already gotten a ton of new subscribers since this project began. Clearly, people are interested and the content is excellent. The blasting process is super satisfying to watch 😀 Continued good luck with this project!
I never thought there would be much interest, but I’m pleasantly surprised. The community around this has been so supportive, and it’s a fun creative outlet. Thank you!
My first car was a 1974 Corolla SR-5. It was a blast. I learned how to do most of the maintenance I do on cars today, on that poor thing. But the 72 Corolla is absolutely a classic, right up there with the Ford Escort.
Looking great so far, I think the tent was a really good move to contain the dust and sand. Really make sure you wear gloves when grinding or using anything that vibrates and or puts pressure on your hands and wrist, vibrations will ruin your life. I have carpal tunnel from this type of work and it isn't fun, nowadays I can't really tension my hands for a long while without it getting painful. Now I do 10 mins of work, a short 5 min break and then 10 mins of work. Other than that just like many others, very excited to see where this is going. I wasn't familiar with this Toyota corolla but I do really like the look of it. Keep up the good work Joel.
Very very interesting, thank you for sharing this. When my hands started going numb, I googled it and it said this should happen after long exposure, months, years. The google self diagnosis can be scary. The pills are working so far, and I don’t plan on doing this often so hopefully it clears up. Sorry that you had to go through it.
@@sansberlin Exposed myself to it for 3 years because I was young dumb and had the ''YA GOTTA KEEP GOING YEHAW'' mindset : ') I always suggest, when working on cars or doing garden work etc make sure you give your wrists time to recover and don't think that vibrations or hitting things hard won't hurt you.
this project is amazing and im thriled to see the resolts at the end of it. truly having a great time watching your vids man keep up with the good work!!!
😂The expressions are very rich, much like watching a stage play. I can feel that feeling of helplessness and sluggishness on the other side of the earth!😂 Very good😅
My god! This is a serious endeavor. I know nothing about cars so this would absolutely be my nightmare: Tearing things down and not being able to put them back in place. Wish you the best.
Just caught this in my feed…love the old Corollas (TE27s esp.) Be careful with flash rust as we try to have a coating on everything within 24hrs (12 is ideal). High zinc primer would also be a good route to go for long term protection (with a top coat & undercoating). You would have benefitted that “dryer board” by using brass but the concept is solid; autodrains are also fairly cheap and you can pull a few to support your system for $30-$40 each off of Amazon/EBay. Lastly, more than likely the amount of media making it through your nozzle is substantially lower on the more aggressive material subsequently you’re getting slower cut rates; would (may) be difficult to tell by just observing/looking at it (measure media consumption over set times with both). Keep up the good work!
Thank you for this, this is really great advice. It did start rusting near the back of the car and I coated it in a little WD40, it seems to have stopped for now. The zinc primer undercoat seems like a good way to go, I’ll do some research. After the coating I’ve seen people do the raptor bedliner, any experience with that? The worker at Home Depot told me I should get brass due to rust, I naively said “it’s for air, it won’t rust”…now it’s starting to rust. I’ll take all this knowledge to the next build
pro painting tip: use a brush to do a few stripe coats on seams, fixtures and hard to reach areas BEFORE actual spray painting. Usual caveats of proper surface preparation apply. Saves you time on touching up missed areas after spraying. The stripe coat serves 2 purposes: 1. it build up paint thickness in areas prone to low paint application and it serves as insurance that hard to reach areas by spray is covered by paint. If you don't do the stripe coats, might as well have not bothered to do a full blast on the chassis.
@@sansberlin the bendy tabs are structurally compromised once bent and are prone to fatigue failure if manipulated too often. If the tabs are salvageable and serviceable, a zinc based primer brush applied is probably your best choice for corrosion protection without having to further worry of paint cracking off. Remove all existing paint and contaminants as best you can to bare metal (DO NOT MIRROR polish) and brush on the zinc based primer. Ensure minimum and maximum overcoating intervals are observed as per manufacturer's recommendations. Usual surface prep caveats apply. If corroded, apply rust converter, and anti-rust primer and dont let OCD take over. Or just replace with fresh tabs if viable. Probably the best option and least tedious is looking into existence of the aftermarket parts and accessories that have screw-on or rivet on line holders to replace the factory intended single use tabs.
Great to follow you and your willingness to tackle anything in front of your viewing audience. On sandblasting stay away from it unless you are experienced. It heats up the metal quickly and staying too long in one area is a disaster. You can get away with it on the bottom but do use glass media blasting if doing the body. I figure you drew schematics of the wiring off camera. Keep entertaining us guys. You are inspirational.
I have a 85 GTS, working on removing rust a little bit at a time and it sucks! Very satisfying after each small section is done though, just difficult to get started. You progress is far ahead of mine, which is good because your video help! Next is cutting away the rust, looking forward to that since I’ve been welding for a few years now. Keep it going, looking forward to future videos! Awesome work!
A trick i picked up along the way is to put bolts and nuts back in place wherever/whenever possible. This cuts down on remembering and potential loss of hardware. 😊
For your limited skill set, this is quite an impressive project you have under taken. Hat's off to you. Sheet metal repair / welding is fun to learn. Basically you'll need a MIG welder. I have a friend who does sheet metal fabrication / repair on high end exotics and very old classic cars where sometimes parts just aren't available. I remember one time I dropped by his shop and was watching him make a door for this really old Porsche from scratch basically. He told me (and this was back in the 90's) this is gonna end up being a $3400 door. I remember he was doing many, many small "spot" MIG welds along the metal seams. He's pop the MIG on/off and do a quick tiny spot. Move along do a couple more. Then jump to another spot and do some more. He explained he had to move around to keep from heat soaking the panel. I'm sure there are plenty of TH-cam videos how about how to do it. Try to find yourself a MIG welder that allows infinite adjustment on both the wire feed rate as well as the amps - newer ones sometimes have notches or preset levels. I have a very old MIG by Lincoln that allows for variable adjustment through the entire range and more than one guy has commented that "those older machines with the full range adjustment" are the best. When it comes to electrical wiring, do you know how to solder and use heat shrink tubing and all that? I redid the entire wiring harness on my 1990 Toyota Pickup; you can see some of it on my channel.. but if you want some info, feel free to email me directly using the address in the channel about tab. I can maybe dig up some links to some of the high heat rubberized sheathing I used, as well as some of the specific expanding tube that worked well for me. Also, you might wanna check ebay to see if you can find the original Toyota electrical manual for this car. At least or my 1990 pickup, they provided a specific electrical manual which covers everything wiring / electronics on the truck. It's super in depth... it shows each individual connector, the specific pin numbers, the wire colors, everything. When I took my truck all apart and re-did all the wiring, that manual helped me figure out what wire went where and what wire did what.. also when I had to re-pin broken connectors, I was able to figure out which pin went where. Not sure if you are gonna find one clear back for 1972, but here's an example of one from 1983 that might be similar in some areas) www.ebay.com/itm/404175251555
I did pick up an decent MIG and a bottle of gas, this weekend I’m going to figure it all out and do some samples before hand. I’ve been watching a lot of videos and saw much of the same, spread the heat around and start with tac welds. I have an old 72 manual, but because this car was already modified, the wiring diagrams won’t be of much use. The car was running before, so all I’m hoping for is cleaning the wires up, upgrading grounds, sealing the connectors etc, there’s been some great videos out there explaining it simply
Man, I admire your courage to do all this without a jumpsuit, if I can give you an advice, get one before the painting, also, the soldering isn't as difficult, just take your time to train yourself, use some sheet of steel try with it untill you feel is good enough, I also encourage you to try grinding after, it looks better, isn't difficult, but it needs some attention.
Thanks man, I was eyeing the jumpsuit in princess auto the other day, I’ll have to get one. I was planning on doing exactly that, get some practice on the sheet metal I bought, and grind away the imperfections. I’m just hoping I don’t start a fire
Binged my way up to date on this series on the weekend. Great stuff! I really appreciate you working through all this stuff much like many of us do. An added bonus for me is seeing you do this with equipment and supplies available in BC - it can get frustrating watching US-based TH-camrs who order stuff like crazy from suppliers that would never ever be available in Canada. Looking forward to following along!
Great work! Learning to weld is fun, just start off in areas that aren't critical. Small patchwork and so. Having the car on it's side makes welding so much easier. I had to weld in the rear wheel wells with the car up on jackstands, that was no fun. The video of that is on my channel. Good luck!
I went through all the same issues. I have a Celica from 74, that needs to be blasted, but am a bit afraid of the aftermath hehe. Anyway great job, definately gonna follow for more :)
i heard people say, "do your best, grind the rest." when it comes to welding. i practiced on some spare junk i had before learinign on the car. experimented with trying to fill holes, with trying to weld different thicknesses. i think the hardest was to get used to not welding a long line all at once.
Now that i've started welding....I understand that quote. I did a few sample welds on some new material and it worked great.....but when I got to the car, the old sheet metal melted like butter. I've resorted to doing tack welding on the thin sheet metal so far.
Love this series!! I’ve been thinking about a project car recently - I haven’t been able to wrench on a car since my first car (73 Beetle that I bought in 1989). Wow, now that I say those years, I’m realizing that more time has passed since I owned that car, than had passed from the time it was new until I owned it - it seemed like such an old car back then. Anyway, I feel like I’m learning along with you. Keep up the good work!
Much respect for you going into this project without a mentor. Learning everything the hard way is one hell of a way to do it. Just subbed and am looking forward to the finished product man. Best of luck.
honestly, that's not a half-bad result and the makeshift booth did great. that was probably a lot of manual labor, but it was definitely worth it (now that it's over)
This is a really sweet project. It seems like you really enjoyed this work. I think there is a lot to be said for just sending the chassis for a chemical bath. Im not sure what is available to you, but sandblasting will let you down where you can't reach. It also and will make the metal easier to blow holes in, especially if you're a weak welder. Walnuts or bakingsoda are other "blasting" methods that leave you with more metal to work with, non-abrasive.
Pretty solid car underneath considering the age - great find and will look great when it's done. Had a chance to buy one of these along with a Lancer of similar age at a "proceeds of crime" auction but I blew it and the cars ended up selling really cheap too, much regret lol.
Another cheap thing you can do for dry air is an ice bucket after cooler. You pipe in a coil sitting in ice water bucket after the compressor pump then use the desiccant filter right before it goes into the tank. The expensive version is to buy a refrigerated air dryer. There are some models out there that only costs $500
Great idea on the canopy too BTW. They're usually way cheaper than the whole tent ones, then a roll of vapor barrier will make great sides (it's about 20x thicker than your shrink wrap! haha). I'll be in Van in about a month... If you're working on this first week of august I'll come give you a hand!
Knowing all the parts and how to work on them makes a project easy.... wiring isn't Rocket Science...even Rocket Science takes knowledge and education and experience.... make drawings of where parts are on your vehicle ( take pictures ) and mark every wire and what it goes to ( some are obvious based on connectors but best to label everything and not worry...even guys who do this daily can use help on the layout..but they usually can figure it out by just starting at one connector and laying it out pretty well gets most of it lined up...one step gets you moving and each step closer to the end .. when i started working on vehicles 50+ years ago it seems overwhelming but i soon found just relaxing and not over thinking things gets you going better at a task... everything is simple if you understand that it really is that way... same with repairs..i break it into simple steps and start with the basics..eliminating what is ok or finding an issue to repair ( sometimes unrelated to my real problem but you gotta fix what is broken and retest )..
I don’t want to endorse a particular brand of product. However, I’ve been using fish oil - aka fisholene - for maybe 15 years on my Fiat X1/9s, 128 3P and ‘75 Mitsubishi Galant hardtop and found it to be great. It applies like a cavity wax but skins over, forming a permanent anaerobic layer that resists water and air. Its carrier is acetone, which helps the oil penetrate deeply into crevices, etc, but then flashes off leaving a paintable top layer. We don’t salt our roads in Australia but I live in Tasmania, which is pretty wet and I’m often in salt-laden coastal areas but treated parts of the car have remained rust-free. It would likely be effective for Canadian condition, too; I know they salt but it works very well.
I was just researching this the other day, it seems there's a variety of spray products that stop rust. They also come with a long tube and a multi directional nozzle that sprays the product all over the inside of the subframe. Havent chosen anything yet though
Great job man. Btw I have experienced numbness in my hands from using tools for long periods also and the first time it happens it is a strange feeling. Undercarriage is looking great.
You’ll be grinding most of the welding flat anyways so looks don’t matter as much as strength. It will be tempting to grind down way to far to smooth out the seams but that’s a big mistake. Make sure you leave enough weld you can see the line. You’ll be much better off with a visible patch that holds vs on that looks nice but ends up cracking on you
IMO the 60's through say 1974 Toyotas were simply the best. I had a 74 Carina cause I'm 6'4" - it was the only Toy that would allow me to sit upright with good legroom. When the SR Corolla with the 5 speed hit the market, I wanted one for the 5th gear but it'd be like putting a size eleven foot into a size ten shoe. You could to it but the result would always be painful 🙂 I've subbed just to see where you go with this 72.
@@iamdjaninfj1758 Thanks It was a great car... eventually balanced, blueprinted it, put a custom cam and a sidedraft Weber & intake on it. Oh... and "Hooker" header. Gosh what a great car - you could run her like an air-cooled car, never a problem anytime, anywhere. I bought it new with money I'd saved for about two years. Carinas were sweet for sure... just wanted that stupid sr5 5speed tranny but never got one.
Love these videos ypur doing great bro, one thing you should have done before removing the wiring is lavel it like you did the brake lines, and maybe next time try remove as much of the parts as a whole, saves having heaps of little parts laying around and makes for easier to remember where it goes, but each to their own really. Maybe get some wire wrap too, would help clean up and protect the wiring on reassemble
Pictures and a wiring manual is your friend when it comes to the harnesses, but I can totally understand your anxiety. Also, I'd highly recommend a coupler of packets of cheap goggles (like $3 for 3 at Harbor Freight) and some tape to cover the breather holes in the goggles instead of the included hood for blasting next time. May not fit with your respirator though; I use 3M N95 masks to fit them better. Basically once they are pitted, grab another pair of goggles after about 30 mins of blasting
Wiring is super easy if you just isolate the different systems and do them one by one. A big rats nest can be intimidating but taking it slow and not doing everything at once makes it a breeze.
Me gusta el trabajo que estás haciendo te felicito, vi todos tus videos y estoy esperando los próximos, cómo lo mencioné anterior mente, te felicito buen trabajo 👍
Amazing video! I've always wanted to do this myself but i don't have a garage right now, hope to be able to do things like this in the future even though that it's hard work! Subscribed
I understand completely about your fear of wiring dude , what I do is use modern tech to help get yourself lots of different coloured sticky dots stick them on the wires using the different colours for various wire differences and take lots and lots of pictures then you can see exactly where they go without blowing a fuse yourself …well it certainly works for me 👍
I have same system sandblaster and its jamming at bottom where sand goes into the tube. I have dry air and so on... but sand quality is the main problem to jamming tube. Chaking it, smaller sand will drop and larger sand will be up and it not jamming so much.
Wiring is really not that bad. You’ll have to force yourself to look at it one wire/circuit at a time. Once you’ve done one, it gets easier. You’re doing a great job!!!
Exactly! The wiring for this cars are really simple (compared with a modern car), with the basic understanding of it you can replicate, or even better improve the system (with, for example, adding relays for the lights subwiring, hiding wires in the wheel wells, etc). Great job by the way!
I've been watching some videos, especially the one SuperFastMatt did about wiring the whole car, it really brakes it down. Funny enough, bringing the wires to the engine bay seems easier than bringing it inside the car to wherever they go. Appreciate it!
Great job
Exactly. I'd rather wire that whole car than sandblast it myself any day.
a 72 Rolla? power and earth to the coil. it will run.
I love this series its one of the greatest going on right now. Pro tip for the wiring, the HP academy lessons on wiring are a great help. I was in the same boat as you a year ago and after going through their instructional videos I was able to wire up an old Volvo from scratch with a bit of confidence. I'm still not a wiring expert but I feel like I have enough knowledge to at least not make any huge wiring mistakes. Cheers!
I saw their videos and started going through it, they're really great! I also like a video SuperFastMat did about rewiring an entire car, its super to the point and really helped my understanding so far. Thanks!
HP?
I just reconnected all of the wiring on my 87 GTI, what saved my life was wrapping each connection in painters tape to make a tag, then wrote (to the best of my ability) where it went, THEN took a picture of the wire with the writing where I unplugged it from. Seriously can't imagine figuring it out without doing all that. Tedious but 100% worth it.
Im probably a little to late for labeling, but I did get a few on there. This engine bay seems simple enough, but im hoping to learn how to make some nice clean wiring with weatherproof seals. I'm actually getting excited for it
@sansberlin ya as soon as I wrote it I was like "idk what the point of that was" lol. You did a great job regardless.
Blast from the Past! Keep working on it, Joel! 😊
Thanks man!
7:51 lmao man just permanently borrowed an unassuming car canopy 😂love this series
they wont miss it
Good gosh! I really like ALL your videos. This one is well up to your usual superb standard. Your explanation voiceovers more than made up for those little spots where you couldn't wear a microphone. The camera angles and editing perfectly support your exposition. They draw this viewer right into paying rapt attention to what you're doing! Your film...whets all our appetites for more! Well done!
Thanks for taking the time to say this, it really means a lot that people appreciate the time it takes not only to do the work, but to make it look and feel right. Thank you!
I am loving the progressive of this restoration man. I am with you with wiring / electrical...not my favorite thing about a vehicle.
Great work!!
Appreciate it! The wiring will be dealt with in time
6 hours to get to that point is pretty quick! Great job
I just got myself a 1976 Corolla. I don't plan on doing the work myself but this is a great series for someone learning the details of the 70's corollas. At this point i'm just doing research on what I should get done to restore it, what I want and what my pockets can afford
Welding is a piece of cake. Its everything leading up to it that's a pain, but you're 95% there already. Just cutting out the rust and fabricating replacement panels now and you're good. I'm amazed at how well that enclosure worked, I expected to see way more grit and dust blown out of there.
I’m surprised too, today I had to do some touch ups without the tent and things went everywhere, it was a pain. Welding starts tomorrow, pretty excited
Excited to see this through to the end.
I've always wanted to do full teardown restorations on cars/motorcycles but still don't have the space (or money). Hopefully some day!
Thanks man, this is the first teardown i've done too, so I say just get started and have a good learning experience. One tool at a time and one day at a time
So excited to see this build process! Looked like an absolute slog getting the under cleaned up. Can't wait for the next.
It was a dirty job and I’m glad its over. Thanks!
caught a bit of asmr vibes in this video making very satisfying you take it apart
I find the editing is moving in that direction, maybe on some of the parts I’ll make them asmr videos. Thanks!
@@sansberlin Keep up the great work
I can't wait for the next episode. This was fun to watch.
Appreciate it
For your enclosure, I've used vapor barrier poly to great success for similarly messy jobs
I saw some at Home Depot, but I was thinking it would be too heavy? Seemed very durable
I was waiting for this video now waiting for the next. Good DIY job for the sand blasting room.
Thanks man, already starting to weld
Great stuff. I keep thinking down the road you'll wish you went the extra mile. You're so close to having everything stripped and redone correctly!
Thanks man. Curious, what do you consider “correctly”? Think of this as the learner car so I can rebuild my dream car correctly
@@sansberlin just stripping everything, glass, interior, etc. And fixing rust everywhere. Maybe that was already your plan but I assumed not since you didn't take it off prior to tipping the car over. You've done so much work already I just meant why not go all the way. that always runs the risk of too much cost, losing steam in the project etc.
@@alexabc123 the plan is to keep it simple and learn the skills so that when the dream car comes around, I can do a complete resto. This is the first project, and the first time ever doing this, so gutting the car would be too much for me
There's an old evil engineer from Toyota watching this and laughing as he watches you struggle .
if this is not the best serie on the internet i don't know what is
I Immediately subbed because I saw you doing it the right way with a sandblaster and because you use the same deadman valve as mine. I'm glad seeing someone olse using it too. One tip: put the air compressor on a piece of plywood and stuck up against the sandblasting pot in order for the comp to shake the media down at the botyom of the pickup
Appreciate it man, thanks for the tip!
Thank you for these videos. Just found them. Picked up a 79 liftback a couple months ago
i want to see this project completed, is gonna be one of the nicest restorations in youtube
Appreciate it! But I’ll just hope for the nicest I can do with the skills I have haha
I watched your initial Corolla video from 3 months ago, and it popped up again in my feed today and I indulged by watching it a second time! Love the car. I even went on Facebook to see if there were any for sale local to me 😅
They’re hard to find up here in Canada but I see a few on the west coast in the states. Slowly making its way to completion from the first video’s “idea” of how this would turn out
You'll make welding look easy! Looking forward to the next vid
Haha the power of editing, I’ll have to make a video showing all the mistakes I made already. Too kind, thank you!
Excellent content and excellent taste in music! Looking forward to the continued series.
You're doing great! Keep up the amazing videos!! Turning out to be the shiey of car content imo
Thanks appreciate it!
Great job Joel been following this build from the beginning. My first car was a Corolla have soft spot for them. Keep up the great work we will continue supporting you. Can't wait to see the final results. Takecare.
Thanks for being one of the originals! Really appreciate it, thanks man
Great job on the blasting and grinding,Joel! love the makeshift booth.
Thanks man, it really held up!
You've already gotten a ton of new subscribers since this project began.
Clearly, people are interested and the content is excellent. The blasting process is super satisfying to watch 😀
Continued good luck with this project!
I never thought there would be much interest, but I’m pleasantly surprised. The community around this has been so supportive, and it’s a fun creative outlet. Thank you!
Dude I just found this and it’s exactly what I wanted to see, so yes new subscriber here
just did a marathon on your vids man. loving this series so far. looking forward for more great content from you.
Appreciate it! It’s nice to see a small collection of videos piling up
Love the editing style, can't wait to see more of this project
Appreciate it!
you can use POR-15. They really work great.
Was looking into ways I could use that inside the sub frame
My first car was a 1974 Corolla SR-5. It was a blast. I learned how to do most of the maintenance I do on cars today, on that poor thing. But the 72 Corolla is absolutely a classic, right up there with the Ford Escort.
Looking great so far, I think the tent was a really good move to contain the dust and sand.
Really make sure you wear gloves when grinding or using anything that vibrates and or puts pressure on your hands and wrist, vibrations will ruin your life. I have carpal tunnel from this type of work and it isn't fun, nowadays I can't really tension my hands for a long while without it getting painful. Now I do 10 mins of work, a short 5 min break and then 10 mins of work.
Other than that just like many others, very excited to see where this is going. I wasn't familiar with this Toyota corolla but I do really like the look of it. Keep up the good work Joel.
Very very interesting, thank you for sharing this. When my hands started going numb, I googled it and it said this should happen after long exposure, months, years. The google self diagnosis can be scary. The pills are working so far, and I don’t plan on doing this often so hopefully it clears up. Sorry that you had to go through it.
@@sansberlin Exposed myself to it for 3 years because I was young dumb and had the ''YA GOTTA KEEP GOING YEHAW'' mindset : ')
I always suggest, when working on cars or doing garden work etc make sure you give your wrists time to recover and don't think that vibrations or hitting things hard won't hurt you.
this project is amazing and im thriled to see the resolts at the end of it. truly having a great time watching your vids man keep up with the good work!!!
Appreciate it! I'm excited every step I get closer to driving it
Dude you’re literally like me! I wish I had the balls (and money) tsxkle something like this. One day though!
😂The expressions are very rich, much like watching a stage play. I can feel that feeling of helplessness and sluggishness on the other side of the earth!😂
Very good😅
The farther I go along on the project he more helpless I feel hahaha especially now that i've started welding!
this is going to be a fantastic restoration
Just can’t wait for it to be running again
Great work, Joel. Keep up the great work.
Thanks man, appreciate it
I understend you with the wirering thing . Have same issue with my toyota celica project.
“Sucking at something is the first step to being sort of good at something”
You got an excellent car, the metal es still in good condition, and with this job you are going to have an excellent piece of calssic too.
My god! This is a serious endeavor. I know nothing about cars so this would absolutely be my nightmare: Tearing things down and not being able to put them back in place. Wish you the best.
But see that’s the point of this series, I also know nothing about cars. But it’s the act of taking action that we learn the quickest! Thanks man
Just caught this in my feed…love the old Corollas (TE27s esp.) Be careful with flash rust as we try to have a coating on everything within 24hrs (12 is ideal). High zinc primer would also be a good route to go for long term protection (with a top coat & undercoating). You would have benefitted that “dryer board” by using brass but the concept is solid; autodrains are also fairly cheap and you can pull a few to support your system for $30-$40 each off of Amazon/EBay. Lastly, more than likely the amount of media making it through your nozzle is substantially lower on the more aggressive material subsequently you’re getting slower cut rates; would (may) be difficult to tell by just observing/looking at it (measure media consumption over set times with both).
Keep up the good work!
Thank you for this, this is really great advice. It did start rusting near the back of the car and I coated it in a little WD40, it seems to have stopped for now.
The zinc primer undercoat seems like a good way to go, I’ll do some research. After the coating I’ve seen people do the raptor bedliner, any experience with that?
The worker at Home Depot told me I should get brass due to rust, I naively said “it’s for air, it won’t rust”…now it’s starting to rust. I’ll take all this knowledge to the next build
pro painting tip: use a brush to do a few stripe coats on seams, fixtures and hard to reach areas BEFORE actual spray painting. Usual caveats of proper surface preparation apply. Saves you time on touching up missed areas after spraying. The stripe coat serves 2 purposes: 1. it build up paint thickness in areas prone to low paint application and it serves as insurance that hard to reach areas by spray is covered by paint.
If you don't do the stripe coats, might as well have not bothered to do a full blast on the chassis.
Really really great advice, thank you! Any tips on the flexible tabs that hold the fuel and brake lines in place? Will I need a more flexible paint?
@@sansberlin Stop bending them back and forth! Each bend weakens the metal and they will soon break off.
@@sansberlin the bendy tabs are structurally compromised once bent and are prone to fatigue failure if manipulated too often. If the tabs are salvageable and serviceable, a zinc based primer brush applied is probably your best choice for corrosion protection without having to further worry of paint cracking off. Remove all existing paint and contaminants as best you can to bare metal (DO NOT MIRROR polish) and brush on the zinc based primer. Ensure minimum and maximum overcoating intervals are observed as per manufacturer's recommendations. Usual surface prep caveats apply. If corroded, apply rust converter, and anti-rust primer and dont let OCD take over.
Or just replace with fresh tabs if viable.
Probably the best option and least tedious is looking into existence of the aftermarket parts and accessories that have screw-on or rivet on line holders to replace the factory intended single use tabs.
I particularly enjoy your laughs of satisfaction.
You're making lots of progress! These videos are a lot of fun to watch, and I can't wait to see what's next.
That means a lot, thank you!
best serie here love you project , keep going
Appreciate it!
the video quality has definitely improved! im excited to see this thing on its wheels
Great to follow you and your willingness to tackle anything in front of your viewing audience. On sandblasting stay away from it unless you are experienced. It heats up the metal quickly and staying too long in one area is a disaster. You can get away with it on the bottom but do use glass media blasting if doing the body. I figure you drew schematics of the wiring off camera. Keep entertaining us guys. You are inspirational.
This is our car way back in 1995. I'm really looking forward on your build!
Thank you!
@@sansberlin patiently waiting on your next upload bro!
I have a 85 GTS, working on removing rust a little bit at a time and it sucks! Very satisfying after each small section is done though, just difficult to get started. You progress is far ahead of mine, which is good because your video help! Next is cutting away the rust, looking forward to that since I’ve been welding for a few years now. Keep it going, looking forward to future videos! Awesome work!
Talking about dedication, praise unto you
Joel I love you man.. you are a hard worker. !!!!
Thanks man!
been waiting for this video! thanks for another amazing one!
Appreciate it!
Awesome job on the 1972 Toyota
Amazing progress!
Appreciate it!
A trick i picked up along the way is to put bolts and nuts back in place wherever/whenever possible. This cuts down on remembering and potential loss of hardware. 😊
Well done my man.
Thank you very much sir
For your limited skill set, this is quite an impressive project you have under taken. Hat's off to you. Sheet metal repair / welding is fun to learn. Basically you'll need a MIG welder. I have a friend who does sheet metal fabrication / repair on high end exotics and very old classic cars where sometimes parts just aren't available. I remember one time I dropped by his shop and was watching him make a door for this really old Porsche from scratch basically. He told me (and this was back in the 90's) this is gonna end up being a $3400 door. I remember he was doing many, many small "spot" MIG welds along the metal seams. He's pop the MIG on/off and do a quick tiny spot. Move along do a couple more. Then jump to another spot and do some more. He explained he had to move around to keep from heat soaking the panel. I'm sure there are plenty of TH-cam videos how about how to do it. Try to find yourself a MIG welder that allows infinite adjustment on both the wire feed rate as well as the amps - newer ones sometimes have notches or preset levels. I have a very old MIG by Lincoln that allows for variable adjustment through the entire range and more than one guy has commented that "those older machines with the full range adjustment" are the best. When it comes to electrical wiring, do you know how to solder and use heat shrink tubing and all that? I redid the entire wiring harness on my 1990 Toyota Pickup; you can see some of it on my channel.. but if you want some info, feel free to email me directly using the address in the channel about tab. I can maybe dig up some links to some of the high heat rubberized sheathing I used, as well as some of the specific expanding tube that worked well for me. Also, you might wanna check ebay to see if you can find the original Toyota electrical manual for this car. At least or my 1990 pickup, they provided a specific electrical manual which covers everything wiring / electronics on the truck. It's super in depth... it shows each individual connector, the specific pin numbers, the wire colors, everything. When I took my truck all apart and re-did all the wiring, that manual helped me figure out what wire went where and what wire did what.. also when I had to re-pin broken connectors, I was able to figure out which pin went where. Not sure if you are gonna find one clear back for 1972, but here's an example of one from 1983 that might be similar in some areas) www.ebay.com/itm/404175251555
I did pick up an decent MIG and a bottle of gas, this weekend I’m going to figure it all out and do some samples before hand. I’ve been watching a lot of videos and saw much of the same, spread the heat around and start with tac welds.
I have an old 72 manual, but because this car was already modified, the wiring diagrams won’t be of much use. The car was running before, so all I’m hoping for is cleaning the wires up, upgrading grounds, sealing the connectors etc, there’s been some great videos out there explaining it simply
@@sansberlin Good deal.. can't wait to see how she turns out.
good luck with the welds
Tomorrows d-day
Man, I admire your courage to do all this without a jumpsuit, if I can give you an advice, get one before the painting, also, the soldering isn't as difficult, just take your time to train yourself, use some sheet of steel try with it untill you feel is good enough, I also encourage you to try grinding after, it looks better, isn't difficult, but it needs some attention.
Thanks man, I was eyeing the jumpsuit in princess auto the other day, I’ll have to get one.
I was planning on doing exactly that, get some practice on the sheet metal I bought, and grind away the imperfections. I’m just hoping I don’t start a fire
Good luck buddy. Been there, done that... Lots of fun.
Binged my way up to date on this series on the weekend. Great stuff! I really appreciate you working through all this stuff much like many of us do. An added bonus for me is seeing you do this with equipment and supplies available in BC - it can get frustrating watching US-based TH-camrs who order stuff like crazy from suppliers that would never ever be available in Canada. Looking forward to following along!
I get the same frustration! Luckily most of those harbour freight items are just red copies of princess auto items. Thanks man, I appreciate the binge
Great work! Learning to weld is fun, just start off in areas that aren't critical. Small patchwork and so. Having the car on it's side makes welding so much easier. I had to weld in the rear wheel wells with the car up on jackstands, that was no fun. The video of that is on my channel. Good luck!
Tomorrows the day, excited for it. Just hope I don’t burn through the thin Japanese sheet metal. I’ll do some practice runs
Great progress!
Thanks!
I went through all the same issues.
I have a Celica from 74, that needs to be blasted, but am a bit afraid of the aftermath hehe.
Anyway great job, definately gonna follow for more :)
Love the series, keep it up
Thanks man
Lovin' these vids and lookin' forward to both the process and progress!
Appreciate it!
Hard work. Nice job with the enclosure! I'm looking forward to learning how to weld too👍
i heard people say, "do your best, grind the rest." when it comes to welding. i practiced on some spare junk i had before learinign on the car. experimented with trying to fill holes, with trying to weld different thicknesses. i think the hardest was to get used to not welding a long line all at once.
Now that i've started welding....I understand that quote. I did a few sample welds on some new material and it worked great.....but when I got to the car, the old sheet metal melted like butter. I've resorted to doing tack welding on the thin sheet metal so far.
Love this series!! I’ve been thinking about a project car recently - I haven’t been able to wrench on a car since my first car (73 Beetle that I bought in 1989). Wow, now that I say those years, I’m realizing that more time has passed since I owned that car, than had passed from the time it was new until I owned it - it seemed like such an old car back then. Anyway, I feel like I’m learning along with you. Keep up the good work!
I say if you have the time and need the hobby, nothing better than restoring something you can eventually use. Thanks!
Much respect for you going into this project without a mentor. Learning everything the hard way is one hell of a way to do it.
Just subbed and am looking forward to the finished product man. Best of luck.
A mentor would be much appreciated, but unfortunately I don’t know anyone that’s restored a car. Tackling it alone with TH-cam mentors.
Thanks man
honestly, that's not a half-bad result and the makeshift booth did great. that was probably a lot of manual labor, but it was definitely worth it (now that it's over)
That is a big big job I miss that work
Love that background music in the beginning of the video
This is a really sweet project. It seems like you really enjoyed this work.
I think there is a lot to be said for just sending the chassis for a chemical bath. Im not sure what is available to you, but sandblasting will let you down where you can't reach. It also and will make the metal easier to blow holes in, especially if you're a weak welder. Walnuts or bakingsoda are other "blasting" methods that leave you with more metal to work with, non-abrasive.
Damn, I just commented on your previous video that I was waiting for your next vid, and this happened
Right on time
Pretty solid car underneath considering the age - great find and will look great when it's done. Had a chance to buy one of these along with a Lancer of similar age at a "proceeds of crime" auction but I blew it and the cars ended up selling really cheap too, much regret lol.
Keep em coming, I’m invested now
you really amaze me
Don't make me blush.
fuck yea, love seeing progress on this build!
Thanks man!
Another cheap thing you can do for dry air is an ice bucket after cooler. You pipe in a coil sitting in ice water bucket after the compressor pump then use the desiccant filter right before it goes into the tank. The expensive version is to buy a refrigerated air dryer. There are some models out there that only costs $500
Great idea on the canopy too BTW. They're usually way cheaper than the whole tent ones, then a roll of vapor barrier will make great sides (it's about 20x thicker than your shrink wrap! haha). I'll be in Van in about a month... If you're working on this first week of august I'll come give you a hand!
Knowing all the parts and how to work on them makes a project easy.... wiring isn't Rocket Science...even Rocket Science takes knowledge and education and experience.... make drawings of where parts are on your vehicle ( take pictures ) and mark every wire and what it goes to ( some are obvious based on connectors but best to label everything and not worry...even guys who do this daily can use help on the layout..but they usually can figure it out by just starting at one connector and laying it out pretty well gets most of it lined up...one step gets you moving and each step closer to the end .. when i started working on vehicles 50+ years ago it seems overwhelming but i soon found just relaxing and not over thinking things gets you going better at a task...
everything is simple if you understand that it really is that way... same with repairs..i break it into simple steps and start with the basics..eliminating what is ok or finding an issue to repair ( sometimes unrelated to my real problem but you gotta fix what is broken and retest )..
If you want to remember things and where they go take some still phots and print them out. It works with mechanicals and electrical.
Awesome job! Love this project. Also they make anti vibration gloves
,,,,gonna look into that, thanks!
Amazing. What do you do on the inside of the members that make up the subframe? Spray paint inside of them? Is there a coating you can use?
I don’t want to endorse a particular brand of product. However, I’ve been using fish oil - aka fisholene - for maybe 15 years on my Fiat X1/9s, 128 3P and ‘75 Mitsubishi Galant hardtop and found it to be great. It applies like a cavity wax but skins over, forming a permanent anaerobic layer that resists water and air. Its carrier is acetone, which helps the oil penetrate deeply into crevices, etc, but then flashes off leaving a paintable top layer. We don’t salt our roads in Australia but I live in Tasmania, which is pretty wet and I’m often in salt-laden coastal areas but treated parts of the car have remained rust-free. It would likely be effective for Canadian condition, too; I know they salt but it works very well.
I was just researching this the other day, it seems there's a variety of spray products that stop rust. They also come with a long tube and a multi directional nozzle that sprays the product all over the inside of the subframe. Havent chosen anything yet though
@@alastairwatson3201 I've been researching lately and I've never heard of this, does it make the car smell?? Very cool, i'll look into it
Great job man. Btw I have experienced numbness in my hands from using tools for long periods also and the first time it happens it is a strange feeling. Undercarriage is looking great.
on a scale of 1-10, how good are you going to try and make those welds look?
3.5
You’ll be grinding most of the welding flat anyways so looks don’t matter as much as strength. It will be tempting to grind down way to far to smooth out the seams but that’s a big mistake. Make sure you leave enough weld you can see the line. You’ll be much better off with a visible patch that holds vs on that looks nice but ends up cracking on you
IMO the 60's through say 1974 Toyotas were simply the best. I had a 74 Carina cause I'm 6'4" - it was the only Toy that would allow me to sit upright with good legroom. When the SR Corolla with the 5 speed hit the market, I wanted one for the 5th gear but it'd be like putting a size eleven foot into a size ten shoe. You could to it but the result would always be painful 🙂 I've subbed just to see where you go with this 72.
@@iamdjaninfj1758 Thanks It was a great car... eventually balanced, blueprinted it, put a custom cam and a sidedraft Weber & intake on it. Oh... and "Hooker" header. Gosh what a great car - you could run her like an air-cooled car, never a problem anytime, anywhere. I bought it new with money I'd saved for about two years. Carinas were sweet for sure... just wanted that stupid sr5 5speed tranny but never got one.
Love these videos ypur doing great bro, one thing you should have done before removing the wiring is lavel it like you did the brake lines, and maybe next time try remove as much of the parts as a whole, saves having heaps of little parts laying around and makes for easier to remember where it goes, but each to their own really. Maybe get some wire wrap too, would help clean up and protect the wiring on reassemble
You’re right, I got a few labels in on my engine removal video. But I’m hoping the video log as well as the simplicity of these wires will help
Pictures and a wiring manual is your friend when it comes to the harnesses, but I can totally understand your anxiety. Also, I'd highly recommend a coupler of packets of cheap goggles (like $3 for 3 at Harbor Freight) and some tape to cover the breather holes in the goggles instead of the included hood for blasting next time. May not fit with your respirator though; I use 3M N95 masks to fit them better. Basically once they are pitted, grab another pair of goggles after about 30 mins of blasting
Wiring is super easy if you just isolate the different systems and do them one by one. A big rats nest can be intimidating but taking it slow and not doing everything at once makes it a breeze.
Love seeing the process!
I heard that the type of tires this car uses are really hard to find new.
They're a strange size, and I had to go to a specialist. But not that expensive
Me gusta el trabajo que estás haciendo te felicito, vi todos tus videos y estoy esperando los próximos, cómo lo mencioné anterior mente, te felicito buen trabajo 👍
Can you do a full video on what all is needed and recommend to get the results you had gotten?
I have a video on the sandblasting setup, should cover most of it 👌🏻
Amazing video!
I've always wanted to do this myself but i don't have a garage right now, hope to be able to do things like this in the future even though that it's hard work!
Subscribed
I understand completely about your fear of wiring dude , what I do is use modern tech to help get yourself lots of different coloured sticky dots stick them on the wires using the different colours for various wire differences and take lots and lots of pictures then you can see exactly where they go without blowing a fuse yourself …well it certainly works for me 👍
I have same system sandblaster and its jamming at bottom where sand goes into the tube. I have dry air and so on... but sand quality is the main problem to jamming tube. Chaking it, smaller sand will drop and larger sand will be up and it not jamming so much.