Cummins 6.7 3500 09 ram oil changes 13-15k, orig motor, injectors, trans 68rfe, 1,862,383 miles, still running strong. 70% of miles are towing heavy. 28th set of tires, 11 water pumps, 5 alternators, 2nd transfer case, 6th windshield, 3rd fuel tank transfer pump, orig Cp3, never been over 3k rpm, drive it like grandpa, it’ll live forever.
Ahhh man - this is gold! - I love how thorough you are with this process and inclusion of specs - thanks for breaking this job down for the rest of us!
2011 6.7 here with 250k! had it brand new and still have the original injectors, finally got it straight piped! stay on top of fluids and they top the 5.9s any day!
Nice Job, you explained everything real well good job thanks. Ha who manufactured of your ladder stand my truck is hard to work on off a regular ladder👍
I do my 06 5.9 at once a yr or 3k doesn't matter which comes but she gets fresh oil no matter what at either. I have the Amsoil bypass filter and I still do it that way. It's my money and that engine isn't cheap. With 203k I have plenty of life and I intend to drive it was years! That 6spd is always fun to drive!
293,000 on my 06 6 speed. I have been doing Amsoil extreme every 12k, it is supposed to be good for 25k. I do a new Donaldson Blue oil filter every 6k, and a new Baldwin fuel filter every 2.5k. The pervious owner had it changed at a garage, just cheap oil and filters, but every 3k. I don't think you will find an engine with this many miles any cleaner
Quality of oil is very crucial. I’ve ran AMSoil 15w-40 and changed @ 15,000 miles. Current mileage 245k miles and 8100 engine hours. Emissions stopped working before I reached 1k miles. Zero issues and Under my valve cover is very clean.
Any oil additives??? 150k on mine deleted at 30k Doing a lashing tomorrow. I don't run additive but always curious especially with you fellas that run higher intervals
I run Red Line full synthetic and an Amsoil 2 micron bypass filtration system. With oil analysis I can easily get 25,000 mile change intervals. Soot that the full flow filter doesn’t catch (between 2 and 20 microns) is what causes wear in a diesel
I have been using Shaffers. Was looking into red line. Ive always used it on my bikes. Never thought that red line made diesel oil till I saw it at Summit. Want to do the oil bypass too.
I have 3 trucks the pull Hotshot daily I do oil changes at 5,000 miles Alway use Rotella T6 full 15-40 synthetic. All trucks have over 100k the 2020 has 230k. All run very well.
Your vid was very informative , Thankyou. I noticed the ccv is deleted, but the filter is not gutted. Why did you not gut the filter? I did the delete to my 2012 and gutted the ccv. Is there an advantage to leaving the filter intact, rather than gutted.
I thought the main reason for deleting it was just to keep possible oil from entering into your intake. Not sure what benefit would be from gutting the filter?
Great video. I have 13 and filter is easy to get to fyi. I’d appreciate a more in-depth getting the truck to tdc. Do you just keep bumping the starter or manually turn it? Otherwise love your content after I stumbled across this video and checked a few other videos out.
I’ve had mixed opinions on oil color. Some people say it should be black because it’s grabbing all the soot and if it’s clean then it’s not doing it’s job. Obviously we there’s some validity to it by theory on what the oil is supposed to do for these trucks
Riddle me this. Do you change your oil and filters every 3500 miles? cause thats possibly over $1000 in oil changes every year. I run Rotella T5 15w 40 and do my oil changes as the truck requests . Black oil in a diesel is due to blow by. Introducing a catch can will help but Not sure it solves everything.
Great video. Thx. I c u believe in deletes. I have the 2010 Ram Laramie 3500. I change my oil about every 4k miles. Is that delete on the crank case filter a good thing?. Have a good evening.
Filters are key to any oil change...what you pointed out was filtration not lubrication...that thick black oil is cheap oil, Its not shell Rotella or Valvoline or some of the other better brands...
I've only had one oil change, and used Rotella T6. The computer has it on a 15k change interval. It's a 2018. I would think the full synthetic should extend the life out.
I'm no expert but you could try doing an oil flush next change to try and wash out more deposits, as I understand it just get cheap oil to fill up on after dumping the old oil, let the engine get to temp and flow the cheap oil around, then change that oil too and put in fresh full synthetic or whatever your preferred oil is. They might make oil specifically for flushing that might pull more stuff out but I've never tried it.
Your oil is probably dark as soon as you start it . Dont worry about . Just change oil every 3 or 4 thousand .mines the same. 06 . It has to do with the EGR SYSTEM . They set up the cam to keep the exhaust valve open for a just a millisecond while the intake valve is opening . Thus suckig some exhaust gas into intake valve to be burnt . This causes excess soot in oil . Im sure other guys could explain better but thats what Ive heard about it .
Can i suggest that you use a inch lbs torque wrench on the valves this way you know all the valves are the same and also when you’re tightening the jam nut leave the feeler gauge in. That’s how I do my valve adjustments, been doing it way my whole truck mechanic career.
@@200130769 Using a inch lbs torque wrench. Find an inch lbs that you are comfortable with when doing valve lash, and when you find that torque spec. You use that torque for all the valves this way all the valves will have the same valve lash. When tightening the jam nut would recommend using a tee handle Allen wrench and a box end crow foot to torque the jam nut
I’ve made it 3 minutes into this video and can’t seem to figure out why you don’t lay a shop rag, towel, absorbent, etc down before putting oily parts down. Christ almighty it’s like I’m working on cars with my brothers children (tombstone spin-off quote)
Valve clearences are overlooked on alot of engines not just cummims. To loose induction timing is not right. To tight burnt valves here we come.😂 As far as service intervals go oil & filters are cheap compared to rebuilds. Sooner rather than later wins everytime.
At top dead center between power and compression both valves are closed (and ready to be adjusted). At top dead center between exhaust and intake stroke both valves are slightly open in overlap, and there should be no valve gap.
The crank rotates 2 turns for every 1 turn of the cam. Therefore turning the crank 360 degree’s rotation positions the cam lifter on the base circle of the cam allowing you to adjust the other set of valves. Maybe I missed it but there is an access plate to the flywheel and using the proper pinion gear tool you can rotate the engine with a ratchet turning the flex plate or flywheel.
I deleted my grid heater but I m still getting the engine light on code p206 it’s on my 2008 2500 Dodge Ram 6.7L I removed the cable from both batteries that went to the old grid heater but I m still getting the engine light on
You don't change oil because it wears out, you change oil because it's dirty. Extended oil changes are insanity. Great marketing though. People will believe anything.
Cummins 6.7 3500 09 ram oil changes 13-15k, orig motor, injectors, trans 68rfe, 1,862,383 miles, still running strong. 70% of miles are towing heavy. 28th set of tires, 11 water pumps, 5 alternators, 2nd transfer case, 6th windshield, 3rd fuel tank transfer pump, orig Cp3, never been over 3k rpm, drive it like grandpa, it’ll live forever.
thats mind blowing 1.8 million miles
Same transmission?
Damn
@@Black_stangthe transmission has to of been rebuild 2 or 3 times with that many miles.
Remember your truck is deleted , that’s why your oil is cleaner
Ahhh man - this is gold! - I love how thorough you are with this process and inclusion of specs - thanks for breaking this job down for the rest of us!
2011 6.7 here with 250k! had it brand new and still have the original injectors, finally got it straight piped! stay on top of fluids and they top the 5.9s any day!
Nice Job, you explained everything real well good job thanks.
Ha who manufactured of your ladder stand my truck is hard to work on off a regular ladder👍
Thanks again for all your shared knowledge Mark!
Done my tractor at 800hrs and going to check the Cummins at 100k. Right now I think she is decently quiet but hard to tell straight pipped.
I run a 2013 ram 3500 for my business, and i do my oil change at 15k. It has now 305,000 no issues at all
are those highway miles? is yours deleted?
@@myktheprotector a mix of both, and yes is deleted, has now 325,000. Running strong
Don't try that with a 5th gen or you'll be replacing lifters before 100k
Synthetic?
My 06 has 85,000 on it . Oil has been changed every 2 to 3 000 miles . Overkill ? Yep . Do I regret it. Nope .
I do my 06 5.9 at once a yr or 3k doesn't matter which comes but she gets fresh oil no matter what at either. I have the Amsoil bypass filter and I still do it that way. It's my money and that engine isn't cheap. With 203k I have plenty of life and I intend to drive it was years! That 6spd is always fun to drive!
My 2012 gets oil change every 15000. Currently 495000 miles. Everyday driver.
293,000 on my 06 6 speed. I have been doing Amsoil extreme every 12k, it is supposed to be good for 25k. I do a new Donaldson Blue oil filter every 6k, and a new Baldwin fuel filter every 2.5k. The pervious owner had it changed at a garage, just cheap oil and filters, but every 3k. I don't think you will find an engine with this many miles any cleaner
I'll stick with changing filter every 7500 and changing oil every 15k.
Yep, 3k miles. Let these other guys go 10-15k mi. Not me. Ive been changing oil since 1976. I dont care what anyone says.
Quality of oil is very crucial. I’ve ran AMSoil 15w-40 and changed @ 15,000 miles. Current mileage 245k miles and 8100 engine hours. Emissions stopped working before I reached 1k miles. Zero issues and Under my valve cover is very clean.
Any oil additives???
150k on mine deleted at 30k
Doing a lashing tomorrow.
I don't run additive but always curious especially with you fellas that run higher intervals
Good video and good job keeping a clean shop!
thanks for the info, I am looking fwd to videos for the 2022 and up(4.5/5th gen) 🤠
I run Red Line full synthetic and an Amsoil 2 micron bypass filtration system. With oil analysis I can easily get 25,000 mile change intervals. Soot that the full flow filter doesn’t catch (between 2 and 20 microns) is what causes wear in a diesel
I have been using Shaffers. Was looking into red line. Ive always used it on my bikes. Never thought that red line made diesel oil till I saw it at Summit. Want to do the oil bypass too.
I have 3 trucks the pull Hotshot daily
I do oil changes at 5,000 miles
Alway use Rotella T6 full 15-40 synthetic. All trucks have over 100k the 2020 has 230k. All run very well.
Does it also.not matter on a fifth gen Cummins as well
What do we do if our oil looks that dark? Asking for a friend 😕
nice topside creeper
do you have a complete list of things to do for maintenance
Yeah it's called a owners manual. Go to your dealer and order one.
Your vid was very informative , Thankyou.
I noticed the ccv is deleted, but the filter is not gutted. Why did you not gut the filter? I did the delete to my 2012 and gutted the ccv. Is there an advantage to leaving the filter intact, rather than gutted.
I thought the main reason for deleting it was just to keep possible oil from entering into your intake. Not sure what benefit would be from gutting the filter?
I always ran my valves .07 intake
.017 exhaust.. My little secret on the exhaust is the turbo will come in sooner,approx 200 rpm sooner!!
I'm guessing the tighter lash causes the exhaust valves to open sooner, increasing flow to the turbo sooner?
I do the same. Never had a complaint and always says it runs better than it ever has.
Burnt valves coming😂
Great video. I have 13 and filter is easy to get to fyi. I’d appreciate a more in-depth getting the truck to tdc. Do you just keep bumping the starter or manually turn it? Otherwise love your content after I stumbled across this video and checked a few other videos out.
I’ve had mixed opinions on oil color. Some people say it should be black because it’s grabbing all the soot and if it’s clean then it’s not doing it’s job. Obviously we there’s some validity to it by theory on what the oil is supposed to do for these trucks
Conventional oil was used on the bench truck for sure.
Do U recommend oil bypass
Would you do a test drive video from the inside of the 2001 Dodge Truck?
Thanks, very good job, subscribed
I change the oil when the computer tells me to. Not sure what that interval is. Should I be doing changes more often?
I think computer says 3k but thats for conventional oil. 6-8k thats were im at
My friend where are you located
How do you disconnect the 2 oil lines?
Awesome content as always Mark. Love the editing on the videos especially! Can't wait to show you my turbo 300 Inline 6 when it's finished!
Riddle me this. Do you change your oil and filters every 3500 miles? cause thats possibly over $1000 in oil changes every year. I run Rotella T5 15w 40 and do my oil changes as the truck requests . Black oil in a diesel is due to blow by. Introducing a catch can will help but Not sure it solves everything.
I've picked T6, and have been going to 15k as the truck suggests (it's a 2018). Not sure I could drop to 3k mile changes.
Same here. I do mine at 15k. Truck has 305k miles with no issues
You can get away with longer service intervals in all but 2019+ year models. 5th gens are different because of the roller lifters.
Great video. Thx. I c u believe in deletes. I have the 2010 Ram Laramie 3500. I change my oil about every 4k miles. Is that delete on the crank case filter a good thing?. Have a good evening.
Subscribed thanks for sharing
Filters are key to any oil change...what you pointed out was filtration not lubrication...that thick black oil is cheap oil, Its not shell Rotella or Valvoline or some of the other better brands...
I've only had one oil change, and used Rotella T6. The computer has it on a 15k change interval. It's a 2018. I would think the full synthetic should extend the life out.
What oil do you run and what additive for oil. Also what filter
The oil in my 5.9 is super dark even after only 3k miles. Any recommendation on what to do? I think the old owner was neglecting oil changes as well.
Are you using full synthetic?
Do you burn oil? (If the the latter you have blow by so extra soot is getting into the oil)
I'm no expert but you could try doing an oil flush next change to try and wash out more deposits, as I understand it just get cheap oil to fill up on after dumping the old oil, let the engine get to temp and flow the cheap oil around, then change that oil too and put in fresh full synthetic or whatever your preferred oil is. They might make oil specifically for flushing that might pull more stuff out but I've never tried it.
Someone recommended to run marvel mystery oil for a bit at idle or even driven a bit and then drain old oil.
Your oil is probably dark as soon as you start it . Dont worry about . Just change oil every 3 or 4 thousand .mines the same. 06 . It has to do with the EGR SYSTEM . They set up the cam to keep the exhaust valve open for a just a millisecond while the intake valve is opening . Thus suckig some exhaust gas into intake valve to be burnt . This causes excess soot in oil . Im sure other guys could explain better but thats what Ive heard about it .
Do not screw with marvel mystery oil . It has its place , but not in your case .
Great video!
Do you recommend oil catch cans?
Harmonic dampner...dampens the crank harmonics!💪
At almost 400k miles and never opened the motor up and she purrs still on my 5.9
My 08 duramax is black as night 300k. I’ve done oil analysis and they come back perfect and tell me to run to 6,000miles which I only go 4k
Can i suggest that you use a inch lbs torque wrench on the valves this way you know all the valves are the same and also when you’re tightening the jam nut leave the feeler gauge in. That’s how I do my valve adjustments, been doing it way my whole truck mechanic career.
Can you elaborate on the torque wrench? Torque the jam nut?
@@200130769
Using a inch lbs torque wrench.
Find an inch lbs that you are comfortable with when doing valve lash, and when you find that torque spec. You use that torque for all the valves this way all the valves will have the same valve lash. When tightening the jam nut would recommend using a tee handle Allen wrench and a box end crow foot to torque the jam nut
Nice work! Just got my first diesel. About how many hours and how much would you charge a customer for adjusting valves?
Book time and the hourly rate the mechanic charges.
Your oil life is dependant on the type of oil you use. Synthetic last quite a bit longer and can run up to 10,000 usually
I’ve made it 3 minutes into this video and can’t seem to figure out why you don’t lay a shop rag, towel, absorbent, etc down before putting oily parts down. Christ almighty it’s like I’m working on cars with my brothers children (tombstone spin-off quote)
Well. His shop looks spotless ....so...
So by running 20 on the exhaust is that going to hurt anything on my 6.7 turbo Cummins??
Valve clearences are overlooked on alot of engines not just cummims. To loose induction timing is not right. To tight burnt valves here we come.😂 As far as service intervals go oil & filters are cheap compared to rebuilds. Sooner rather than later wins everytime.
Question . What is the purpose of rotating 360 after adjusting valves. Thanks
At top dead center between power and compression both valves are closed (and ready to be adjusted). At top dead center between exhaust and intake stroke both valves are slightly open in overlap, and there should be no valve gap.
The crank rotates 2 turns for every 1 turn of the cam. Therefore turning the crank 360 degree’s rotation positions the cam lifter on the base circle of the cam allowing you to adjust the other set of valves. Maybe I missed it but there is an access plate to the flywheel and using the proper pinion gear tool you can rotate the engine with a ratchet turning the flex plate or flywheel.
Shouldn't you use a torque spec for the nuts?
I deleted my grid heater but I m still getting the engine light on code p206 it’s on my 2008 2500 Dodge Ram 6.7L I removed the cable from both batteries that went to the old grid heater but I m still getting the engine light on
Are there valve train mods to improve reliability
Do 8 intake and 20 exhaust.....thank me later.
Second!
Too much black oil means too much metal
First 😎
Is that a granny bed hanging over the engine bay
3rd
You don't change oil because it wears out, you change oil because it's dirty. Extended oil changes are insanity. Great marketing though. People will believe anything.