Ahhh man - this is gold! - I love how thorough you are with this process and inclusion of specs - thanks for breaking this job down for the rest of us!
Nice Job, you explained everything real well good job thanks. Ha who manufactured of your ladder stand my truck is hard to work on off a regular ladder👍
I do my 06 5.9 at once a yr or 3k doesn't matter which comes but she gets fresh oil no matter what at either. I have the Amsoil bypass filter and I still do it that way. It's my money and that engine isn't cheap. With 203k I have plenty of life and I intend to drive it was years! That 6spd is always fun to drive!
293,000 on my 06 6 speed. I have been doing Amsoil extreme every 12k, it is supposed to be good for 25k. I do a new Donaldson Blue oil filter every 6k, and a new Baldwin fuel filter every 2.5k. The pervious owner had it changed at a garage, just cheap oil and filters, but every 3k. I don't think you will find an engine with this many miles any cleaner
Great video. Thx. I c u believe in deletes. I have the 2010 Ram Laramie 3500. I change my oil about every 4k miles. Is that delete on the crank case filter a good thing?. Have a good evening.
I’ve had mixed opinions on oil color. Some people say it should be black because it’s grabbing all the soot and if it’s clean then it’s not doing it’s job. Obviously we there’s some validity to it by theory on what the oil is supposed to do for these trucks
I run Red Line full synthetic and an Amsoil 2 micron bypass filtration system. With oil analysis I can easily get 25,000 mile change intervals. Soot that the full flow filter doesn’t catch (between 2 and 20 microns) is what causes wear in a diesel
I have been using Shaffers. Was looking into red line. Ive always used it on my bikes. Never thought that red line made diesel oil till I saw it at Summit. Want to do the oil bypass too.
Your vid was very informative , Thankyou. I noticed the ccv is deleted, but the filter is not gutted. Why did you not gut the filter? I did the delete to my 2012 and gutted the ccv. Is there an advantage to leaving the filter intact, rather than gutted.
I thought the main reason for deleting it was just to keep possible oil from entering into your intake. Not sure what benefit would be from gutting the filter?
Can i suggest that you use a inch lbs torque wrench on the valves this way you know all the valves are the same and also when you’re tightening the jam nut leave the feeler gauge in. That’s how I do my valve adjustments, been doing it way my whole truck mechanic career.
@@200130769 Using a inch lbs torque wrench. Find an inch lbs that you are comfortable with when doing valve lash, and when you find that torque spec. You use that torque for all the valves this way all the valves will have the same valve lash. When tightening the jam nut would recommend using a tee handle Allen wrench and a box end crow foot to torque the jam nut
I’ve made it 3 minutes into this video and can’t seem to figure out why you don’t lay a shop rag, towel, absorbent, etc down before putting oily parts down. Christ almighty it’s like I’m working on cars with my brothers children (tombstone spin-off quote)
Riddle me this. Do you change your oil and filters every 3500 miles? cause thats possibly over $1000 in oil changes every year. I run Rotella T5 15w 40 and do my oil changes as the truck requests . Black oil in a diesel is due to blow by. Introducing a catch can will help but Not sure it solves everything.
Valve clearences are overlooked on alot of engines not just cummims. To loose induction timing is not right. To tight burnt valves here we come.😂 As far as service intervals go oil & filters are cheap compared to rebuilds. Sooner rather than later wins everytime.
I'm no expert but you could try doing an oil flush next change to try and wash out more deposits, as I understand it just get cheap oil to fill up on after dumping the old oil, let the engine get to temp and flow the cheap oil around, then change that oil too and put in fresh full synthetic or whatever your preferred oil is. They might make oil specifically for flushing that might pull more stuff out but I've never tried it.
Your oil is probably dark as soon as you start it . Dont worry about . Just change oil every 3 or 4 thousand .mines the same. 06 . It has to do with the EGR SYSTEM . They set up the cam to keep the exhaust valve open for a just a millisecond while the intake valve is opening . Thus suckig some exhaust gas into intake valve to be burnt . This causes excess soot in oil . Im sure other guys could explain better but thats what Ive heard about it .
I deleted my grid heater but I m still getting the engine light on code p206 it’s on my 2008 2500 Dodge Ram 6.7L I removed the cable from both batteries that went to the old grid heater but I m still getting the engine light on
Filters are key to any oil change...what you pointed out was filtration not lubrication...that thick black oil is cheap oil, Its not shell Rotella or Valvoline or some of the other better brands...
I've only had one oil change, and used Rotella T6. The computer has it on a 15k change interval. It's a 2018. I would think the full synthetic should extend the life out.
At top dead center between power and compression both valves are closed (and ready to be adjusted). At top dead center between exhaust and intake stroke both valves are slightly open in overlap, and there should be no valve gap.
The crank rotates 2 turns for every 1 turn of the cam. Therefore turning the crank 360 degree’s rotation positions the cam lifter on the base circle of the cam allowing you to adjust the other set of valves. Maybe I missed it but there is an access plate to the flywheel and using the proper pinion gear tool you can rotate the engine with a ratchet turning the flex plate or flywheel.
You don't change oil because it wears out, you change oil because it's dirty. Extended oil changes are insanity. Great marketing though. People will believe anything.
Remember your truck is deleted , that’s why your oil is cleaner
Ahhh man - this is gold! - I love how thorough you are with this process and inclusion of specs - thanks for breaking this job down for the rest of us!
Good video and good job keeping a clean shop!
Nice Job, you explained everything real well good job thanks.
Ha who manufactured of your ladder stand my truck is hard to work on off a regular ladder👍
My 06 has 85,000 on it . Oil has been changed every 2 to 3 000 miles . Overkill ? Yep . Do I regret it. Nope .
I do my 06 5.9 at once a yr or 3k doesn't matter which comes but she gets fresh oil no matter what at either. I have the Amsoil bypass filter and I still do it that way. It's my money and that engine isn't cheap. With 203k I have plenty of life and I intend to drive it was years! That 6spd is always fun to drive!
My 2012 gets oil change every 15000. Currently 495000 miles. Everyday driver.
293,000 on my 06 6 speed. I have been doing Amsoil extreme every 12k, it is supposed to be good for 25k. I do a new Donaldson Blue oil filter every 6k, and a new Baldwin fuel filter every 2.5k. The pervious owner had it changed at a garage, just cheap oil and filters, but every 3k. I don't think you will find an engine with this many miles any cleaner
I'll stick with changing filter every 7500 and changing oil every 15k.
Yep, 3k miles. Let these other guys go 10-15k mi. Not me. Ive been changing oil since 1976. I dont care what anyone says.
thanks for the info, I am looking fwd to videos for the 2022 and up(4.5/5th gen) 🤠
Thanks, very good job, subscribed
Awesome content as always Mark. Love the editing on the videos especially! Can't wait to show you my turbo 300 Inline 6 when it's finished!
Great video!
Done my tractor at 800hrs and going to check the Cummins at 100k. Right now I think she is decently quiet but hard to tell straight pipped.
Subscribed thanks for sharing
I run a 2013 ram 3500 for my business, and i do my oil change at 15k. It has now 305,000 no issues at all
are those highway miles? is yours deleted?
@@myktheprotector a mix of both, and yes is deleted, has now 325,000. Running strong
nice topside creeper
Would you do a test drive video from the inside of the 2001 Dodge Truck?
Great video. Thx. I c u believe in deletes. I have the 2010 Ram Laramie 3500. I change my oil about every 4k miles. Is that delete on the crank case filter a good thing?. Have a good evening.
At almost 400k miles and never opened the motor up and she purrs still on my 5.9
I’ve had mixed opinions on oil color. Some people say it should be black because it’s grabbing all the soot and if it’s clean then it’s not doing it’s job. Obviously we there’s some validity to it by theory on what the oil is supposed to do for these trucks
What oil do you run and what additive for oil. Also what filter
What do we do if our oil looks that dark? Asking for a friend 😕
I run Red Line full synthetic and an Amsoil 2 micron bypass filtration system. With oil analysis I can easily get 25,000 mile change intervals. Soot that the full flow filter doesn’t catch (between 2 and 20 microns) is what causes wear in a diesel
I have been using Shaffers. Was looking into red line. Ive always used it on my bikes. Never thought that red line made diesel oil till I saw it at Summit. Want to do the oil bypass too.
Do U recommend oil bypass
Do you recommend oil catch cans?
Does it also.not matter on a fifth gen Cummins as well
My friend where are you located
I always ran my valves .07 intake
.017 exhaust.. My little secret on the exhaust is the turbo will come in sooner,approx 200 rpm sooner!!
I'm guessing the tighter lash causes the exhaust valves to open sooner, increasing flow to the turbo sooner?
I do the same. Never had a complaint and always says it runs better than it ever has.
Burnt valves coming😂
Is that a granny bed hanging over the engine bay
Your vid was very informative , Thankyou.
I noticed the ccv is deleted, but the filter is not gutted. Why did you not gut the filter? I did the delete to my 2012 and gutted the ccv. Is there an advantage to leaving the filter intact, rather than gutted.
I thought the main reason for deleting it was just to keep possible oil from entering into your intake. Not sure what benefit would be from gutting the filter?
Harmonic dampner...dampens the crank harmonics!💪
So by running 20 on the exhaust is that going to hurt anything on my 6.7 turbo Cummins??
Nice work! Just got my first diesel. About how many hours and how much would you charge a customer for adjusting valves?
Book time and the hourly rate the mechanic charges.
Can i suggest that you use a inch lbs torque wrench on the valves this way you know all the valves are the same and also when you’re tightening the jam nut leave the feeler gauge in. That’s how I do my valve adjustments, been doing it way my whole truck mechanic career.
Can you elaborate on the torque wrench? Torque the jam nut?
@@200130769
Using a inch lbs torque wrench.
Find an inch lbs that you are comfortable with when doing valve lash, and when you find that torque spec. You use that torque for all the valves this way all the valves will have the same valve lash. When tightening the jam nut would recommend using a tee handle Allen wrench and a box end crow foot to torque the jam nut
My 08 duramax is black as night 300k. I’ve done oil analysis and they come back perfect and tell me to run to 6,000miles which I only go 4k
I’ve made it 3 minutes into this video and can’t seem to figure out why you don’t lay a shop rag, towel, absorbent, etc down before putting oily parts down. Christ almighty it’s like I’m working on cars with my brothers children (tombstone spin-off quote)
Well. His shop looks spotless ....so...
do you have a complete list of things to do for maintenance
Yeah it's called a owners manual. Go to your dealer and order one.
Your oil life is dependant on the type of oil you use. Synthetic last quite a bit longer and can run up to 10,000 usually
Riddle me this. Do you change your oil and filters every 3500 miles? cause thats possibly over $1000 in oil changes every year. I run Rotella T5 15w 40 and do my oil changes as the truck requests . Black oil in a diesel is due to blow by. Introducing a catch can will help but Not sure it solves everything.
I've picked T6, and have been going to 15k as the truck suggests (it's a 2018). Not sure I could drop to 3k mile changes.
Same here. I do mine at 15k. Truck has 305k miles with no issues
I change the oil when the computer tells me to. Not sure what that interval is. Should I be doing changes more often?
I think computer says 3k but thats for conventional oil. 6-8k thats were im at
Valve clearences are overlooked on alot of engines not just cummims. To loose induction timing is not right. To tight burnt valves here we come.😂 As far as service intervals go oil & filters are cheap compared to rebuilds. Sooner rather than later wins everytime.
The oil in my 5.9 is super dark even after only 3k miles. Any recommendation on what to do? I think the old owner was neglecting oil changes as well.
Are you using full synthetic?
Do you burn oil? (If the the latter you have blow by so extra soot is getting into the oil)
I'm no expert but you could try doing an oil flush next change to try and wash out more deposits, as I understand it just get cheap oil to fill up on after dumping the old oil, let the engine get to temp and flow the cheap oil around, then change that oil too and put in fresh full synthetic or whatever your preferred oil is. They might make oil specifically for flushing that might pull more stuff out but I've never tried it.
Someone recommended to run marvel mystery oil for a bit at idle or even driven a bit and then drain old oil.
Your oil is probably dark as soon as you start it . Dont worry about . Just change oil every 3 or 4 thousand .mines the same. 06 . It has to do with the EGR SYSTEM . They set up the cam to keep the exhaust valve open for a just a millisecond while the intake valve is opening . Thus suckig some exhaust gas into intake valve to be burnt . This causes excess soot in oil . Im sure other guys could explain better but thats what Ive heard about it .
Do not screw with marvel mystery oil . It has its place , but not in your case .
I deleted my grid heater but I m still getting the engine light on code p206 it’s on my 2008 2500 Dodge Ram 6.7L I removed the cable from both batteries that went to the old grid heater but I m still getting the engine light on
Shouldn't you use a torque spec for the nuts?
Filters are key to any oil change...what you pointed out was filtration not lubrication...that thick black oil is cheap oil, Its not shell Rotella or Valvoline or some of the other better brands...
I've only had one oil change, and used Rotella T6. The computer has it on a 15k change interval. It's a 2018. I would think the full synthetic should extend the life out.
Question . What is the purpose of rotating 360 after adjusting valves. Thanks
At top dead center between power and compression both valves are closed (and ready to be adjusted). At top dead center between exhaust and intake stroke both valves are slightly open in overlap, and there should be no valve gap.
The crank rotates 2 turns for every 1 turn of the cam. Therefore turning the crank 360 degree’s rotation positions the cam lifter on the base circle of the cam allowing you to adjust the other set of valves. Maybe I missed it but there is an access plate to the flywheel and using the proper pinion gear tool you can rotate the engine with a ratchet turning the flex plate or flywheel.
Are there valve train mods to improve reliability
Second!
3rd
First 😎
You don't change oil because it wears out, you change oil because it's dirty. Extended oil changes are insanity. Great marketing though. People will believe anything.