This is exactly what I needed for winter. I’m an extremely static climber (outside + alpine based) but struggle with powerful movements in the gym. Thanks Lattice
A lot of time the biggest issue with static climbers is lack of confidence in coordination and risk averse attitudes. Good exercises for a nice start as very fast improvements are: - warming up with easy boulders climbing as fast as possible. Repeat the boulders three times each. - climbing very easy routes/using all holds on the wall and moving two hands at the time. - break down coordination moves into multiple steps, especially when it comes to eye-foot coordination. Of course the physical training can be done on top of technique training 😊
Would love to learn how to build up lock off strength. As I took Lattice plans over the last years I am really looking forward to the new online class. Big fan here 🙂
Guess the easiest way is to just do lock offs lol. Start training it in 90 and 120 degrees with your bodyweight for round about 30secs each set. if it gets easy start adding weight :)
Long duration lock offs are cool but they put a lot of strain on your elbows. Normal pulling exercises will give you better lock off strength as a byproduct
@@Mrperson662 You have a point, but equally everyone is different, so we would always adapt and find the best training exercises for each client. So between doing 90 and 120 degree lock off or long duration, it will depend on your strengths and goals.
I can't be the only one who would really value a re-cap video to set out a basic schedule for a certain group of climbers, of whom there are plenty. Those of us in our 40s, who aren't necessarily chasing a specific objective or route, we're just climbing because we absolutely love it and value it and just want to remain strong and fluid on the wall as possible as age creeps up on us... There's such an overload of information out there, largely geared towards younger, more resilient bodies. It would be great to go back to basics for us. We're all wondering how much should we climb, for how long, how many strength days are necessary, how long should our sessions be, should we target our fingers, or just climb etc.... Thanks!
33 years old here and only 3 months into climbing (I climb at the gym 3 times/week) but I always feel a lot of these programs are far too advanced for me to maintain. I'm climbing a handful of 5.10a or v2 boulder in my gym but I struggle so bad with pushups or any other push/pull exercise with the upper body. I can't do a single pull up yet from a dead hang and I can only do about 4 pushups before failure. I would love to see something more tailored for absolute weaklings like myself who really found inspiration to get stronger so they can keep climbing and progressing
And this is exactly why we decided to make our educational series, which will be full of detailed explanations to help you understand how to train yourself. It will have all the insights in a concise format, making it simple and easy for climbers of all backgrounds to achieve their goals!
Probably one of your best videos so far. To the point, simple, effective. Great stuff. I just wonder, if we wanted to diagnose better, if it's useful to test the climber beforehand to see if he's lacking strength, speed, or both ? I've seen climbers with very little power because they have almost no speed contraction. Wouldn't it be a better approach to make them work only on speed ? how would we test that ? or is it not worth it ?
At Lattice we always make sure to test before giving out training, so we agree with what you are saying. Having a review of where you're starting from is very important, so we can assess how to build from there. When we build power, we first start by working on strength, and then afterwards speed. So in this case, if this person has done the work and is at the level we would want them to be, then we would start working on speed. This can be done with pull-ups where the aim is to move as fast as possible, campusing, or even some on-the-wall exercises. Hope this helps!
So a question is a week of “max strength” and a week of “power” for after the first 6 weeks, how many sessions are within that week, and duration of the sessions? Second question is should you, if you wanted to have once per week a max strength day and than later in the week a power day, so instead of either other week you do both each week along with your regular climbing, why or why not to do so?
I would add that when there is little experience with strength training or when coming back from an injury: don't start with 3 rep sets. Because this is very taxing on the muscles and joints. Instead start with 12-15 reps and work your way down over the weeks. Less intense larger rep sets also allow you to learn the movement of an exercise better that 3 rep sets.
Yes, the routines can definitely be combined with climbing. Do any of the climbing or finger based exercises before climbing and I would do the conditioning exercises afterwards. This means climbing is prioritised but you will make the most of developing contact strength when you are most fresh
Great content as always 💪 Suggested topic: As an average 6th grade sport climber I’m wandering what would be the best way to structure the training plan during winter, when we are back to the gym and we want to make the best out of this off season’s sessions. I just keep asking myself what should I prioritize between strength and power endurance and if we need to combine them what comes first?
It really depends what your goals are. However, if your looking to perform better in spring (often good sport conditions) I would prioritise strength until February and then flip to a PE focus until April/May. This doesn't mean you do none of the other training during the same time, you just change the ratios a bit. For example, Strength twice a week and PE (or endurance) once a week. Then flip it to strength once and PE twice a week. I hope that helps!
Would be interested to know if lattice rates weighted carries for general conditioning and grip strength. Or would this not be climbing specific enough to relate to climbing directly 🤔
I think it is a very fun exercise and certainly builds core and grip strength. I (Ollie) trained with a good friend who competed in strong man, and we did this a lot. Generally speaking though, beyond fun, you can train better by working grip strength and climbing specific conditioning separately. Weighted carries are so fatiguing and really hammer your upper traps in an elongated positions. This can sometimes annoy the structures around your neck and upper back if you are already adapted to climbing (pulling muscle dominant). So its fun but one to be careful of.
What about moving around smaller/bad holds on steep terrain ? I feel like this is a separate skill to moving dynamically, and one that requires specific shoulder strength?
Apologies. Always keen to improve my presenting, however, I don't think this is too uncommon. :) ''Irregardless is a word sometimes used in place of regardless or irrespective, which has caused controversy since the early twentieth century, though the word appeared in print as early as 1795.''
I came to write the same, although colloquially it may be acceptable as meaning regardless. Semantically it can be broken down to mean, without the lack of regard, which is the opposite of its intended meaning. So yeah. Why say irregardless when the intent is to mean regardless, and the meaning is semantically actually the opposite!?
Thoroughly enjoyed this! The lack of "climbing specific" power content available is quite astounding. 🙏
This is exactly what I needed for winter. I’m an extremely static climber (outside + alpine based) but struggle with powerful movements in the gym.
Thanks Lattice
A lot of time the biggest issue with static climbers is lack of confidence in coordination and risk averse attitudes. Good exercises for a nice start as very fast improvements are:
- warming up with easy boulders climbing as fast as possible. Repeat the boulders three times each.
- climbing very easy routes/using all holds on the wall and moving two hands at the time.
- break down coordination moves into multiple steps, especially when it comes to eye-foot coordination.
Of course the physical training can be done on top of technique training 😊
Mega glad we were able to help :)
Now I will try jumping to a deadpoint and increase my contact strength . This is new for me. 👍
Would love to learn how to build up lock off strength. As I took Lattice plans over the last years I am really looking forward to the new online class. Big fan here 🙂
Guess the easiest way is to just do lock offs lol. Start training it in 90 and 120 degrees with your bodyweight for round about 30secs each set. if it gets easy start adding weight :)
@@Jakobsch1yep, this is pretty much it.
Long duration lock offs are cool but they put a lot of strain on your elbows. Normal pulling exercises will give you better lock off strength as a byproduct
@@Mrperson662 long duration lock offs are actually good for elbow health maintenance
@@Mrperson662 You have a point, but equally everyone is different, so we would always adapt and find the best training exercises for each client. So between doing 90 and 120 degree lock off or long duration, it will depend on your strengths and goals.
I can't be the only one who would really value a re-cap video to set out a basic schedule for a certain group of climbers, of whom there are plenty. Those of us in our 40s, who aren't necessarily chasing a specific objective or route, we're just climbing because we absolutely love it and value it and just want to remain strong and fluid on the wall as possible as age creeps up on us... There's such an overload of information out there, largely geared towards younger, more resilient bodies. It would be great to go back to basics for us. We're all wondering how much should we climb, for how long, how many strength days are necessary, how long should our sessions be, should we target our fingers, or just climb etc.... Thanks!
33 years old here and only 3 months into climbing (I climb at the gym 3 times/week) but I always feel a lot of these programs are far too advanced for me to maintain. I'm climbing a handful of 5.10a or v2 boulder in my gym but I struggle so bad with pushups or any other push/pull exercise with the upper body. I can't do a single pull up yet from a dead hang and I can only do about 4 pushups before failure. I would love to see something more tailored for absolute weaklings like myself who really found inspiration to get stronger so they can keep climbing and progressing
And this is exactly why we decided to make our educational series, which will be full of detailed explanations to help you understand how to train yourself. It will have all the insights in a concise format, making it simple and easy for climbers of all backgrounds to achieve their goals!
@@LatticeTrainingtell us more… where and when is this content coming out?
This has some real great value, thanks for the video!
Quality as usual 💪👍👏
Excellent video.
Sweet, thanx a ton ❤
Probably one of your best videos so far. To the point, simple, effective. Great stuff.
I just wonder, if we wanted to diagnose better, if it's useful to test the climber beforehand to see if he's lacking strength, speed, or both ? I've seen climbers with very little power because they have almost no speed contraction. Wouldn't it be a better approach to make them work only on speed ? how would we test that ? or is it not worth it ?
At Lattice we always make sure to test before giving out training, so we agree with what you are saying. Having a review of where you're starting from is very important, so we can assess how to build from there.
When we build power, we first start by working on strength, and then afterwards speed. So in this case, if this person has done the work and is at the level we would want them to be, then we would start working on speed. This can be done with pull-ups where the aim is to move as fast as possible, campusing, or even some on-the-wall exercises.
Hope this helps!
Nice thanks 🙏🏻
Great stuff Ollie!
Cheers! Enjoying your channel too!
So a question is a week of “max strength” and a week of “power” for after the first 6 weeks, how many sessions are within that week, and duration of the sessions? Second question is should you, if you wanted to have once per week a max strength day and than later in the week a power day, so instead of either other week you do both each week along with your regular climbing, why or why not to do so?
this is a great video
I would add that when there is little experience with strength training or when coming back from an injury: don't start with 3 rep sets. Because this is very taxing on the muscles and joints. Instead start with 12-15 reps and work your way down over the weeks. Less intense larger rep sets also allow you to learn the movement of an exercise better that 3 rep sets.
Great content! Can the routines be combined with climbing sessions?
Yes, the routines can definitely be combined with climbing. Do any of the climbing or finger based exercises before climbing and I would do the conditioning exercises afterwards. This means climbing is prioritised but you will make the most of developing contact strength when you are most fresh
Very helpful!
Great content as always 💪
Suggested topic: As an average 6th grade sport climber I’m wandering what would be the best way to structure the training plan during winter, when we are back to the gym and we want to make the best out of this off season’s sessions. I just keep asking myself what should I prioritize between strength and power endurance and if we need to combine them what comes first?
prioritize strength, strength before pe if doing same session
Keep in mind that doing both within the session is suboptimal. If you still want to tackle both within the session, strength before power endurance.
Totally agree on this front. Nice one!@@minime453
It really depends what your goals are. However, if your looking to perform better in spring (often good sport conditions) I would prioritise strength until February and then flip to a PE focus until April/May. This doesn't mean you do none of the other training during the same time, you just change the ratios a bit. For example, Strength twice a week and PE (or endurance) once a week. Then flip it to strength once and PE twice a week. I hope that helps!
Would be interested to know if lattice rates weighted carries for general conditioning and grip strength. Or would this not be climbing specific enough to relate to climbing directly 🤔
I think it is a very fun exercise and certainly builds core and grip strength. I (Ollie) trained with a good friend who competed in strong man, and we did this a lot. Generally speaking though, beyond fun, you can train better by working grip strength and climbing specific conditioning separately. Weighted carries are so fatiguing and really hammer your upper traps in an elongated positions. This can sometimes annoy the structures around your neck and upper back if you are already adapted to climbing (pulling muscle dominant). So its fun but one to be careful of.
What about moving around smaller/bad holds on steep terrain ? I feel like this is a separate skill to moving dynamically, and one that requires specific shoulder strength?
Hey Jeremy, as you mentioned, they are two separate skillsets, and therefore wouldn't apply to power.
However, we will look into making a video on this as well :)
awesome
Goblet squat doesn’t improve your force too much
Too long. make plan shorter. need this done by christmas.
i love you tomstein3165
that is such a good idea
Please stop saying “irregardless” it is so grating and the opposite of what you mean. Regardless of your language, great video on training power.
do you know what irregardless means
Apologies. Always keen to improve my presenting, however, I don't think this is too uncommon. :)
''Irregardless is a word sometimes used in place of regardless or irrespective, which has caused controversy since the early twentieth century, though the word appeared in print as early as 1795.''
I came to write the same, although colloquially it may be acceptable as meaning regardless. Semantically it can be broken down to mean, without the lack of regard, which is the opposite of its intended meaning. So yeah. Why say irregardless when the intent is to mean regardless, and the meaning is semantically actually the opposite!?
But yeah, love your work Ollie, it's just really baffling to me!