EASY Resin Quality on Modern FDM Printers? (following your tips!)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
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In this video Jacob puts all of your tips and tricks to use to improve the quality of his FDM 3d Printed Miniatures. From an extra fine 0.2mm nozzle to a look at Orca Slicer, he shares his experience, some important information and gets to show off some incredible near-resin level prints from his Elegoo Neptune 3 pro.
If like what I do, consider checking out the channel!
/ @painted4combat
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FAQ:
What printer am I using: Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro (Love this thing!)
What Filament am I using: Elegoo PLA (standard) Love the matte finish and slight flex, just gotta have good cooling or parts curl.
Where can you get my print proile or settings??: Im new to Orca Slicer so just figuring out the few issues then ill do a follow up video with my settings!
Wait, wait wait ... 😅
One nitpick I have is that you switched the nozzle size and the slicer together so we (and you probably also) don't know how much of the improvement is caused by which of these changes.
The nozzle probably did most of the work for the improved quality, but printing the same mini with both nozzles and both slicers would be really interesting.
More than that, he doesn't specify whether the settings were the same between slicers, and if they weren't then that adds another very major set of factors to your previous point.
Looking to cover this when I do a more "complete" breakdown. I got significant improvements from swapping to Orca alone (retaining the 0.4 nozzle) this was due to it having much nicer supports as well as some built in calibration tools (and some other minor stuff). and then the addition of the 0.2 nozzle helped to bump that quality further again. - but again, hoping to go more in depth once ive some more time in the software!
@@claws61821 I had much more success with the default settings for my printer in Orca than I did with the defaults Prusa gave me (besides Orca's bizarre travel), I then went through and matched some of my settings to my old Prusa profile where I thought they would improve it. So my settings are different, but only because I had much more success from the get go with Orca. - I'll be doing a future video where I hope to go more in depth once ive had more time in Orca and will discuss all that there!
Incredible quality, I'm totally sold on FDM minis now. Much as I like resin printer's quality, the cleanup/etc drove me up the wall when I owned one. Glad to see I can get an FDM printer and still make good minis for my tabletop campaigns, plus I can use it to print terrain/etc!
I'm not sold on the print times. You can probable get at least 10 resin minis printed in the same time.
@@aaarghzombies640 Of course, resin will definitely print faster (can print whole plates at once), and with higher detail, but I'd happily sacrifice that if it means I don't have to deal with the hazardous chemicals, both liquid and gaseous.
Maybe the speed/quality is a dealbreaker for you, then go for resin, but for me I just want a machine that prints without having to don a scientist's getup every time I want to print a tiny toy.
FDM means 100x more tinkering than resin though...
@@rrxyzrr Yeah, there's going to be trade offs. Have you used a resin printer? You need a dedicated room, ventilation, you need to clean the resin prints with IPA/etc, you need to wear gloves, a respirator, etc. Resin is no joke!
I'd rather tinker with an FDM printer to get some good enough results than deal with hazardous stuff, who knows, I might get another resin printer someday. I don't have an extra room I can dedicate to resin printing right now, FDM PLA is already a little hazardous but not near resin levels.
This is a personal decision and preference. For me, I do not want to be dealing with resin, but maybe you find it worth it for the detail.
@@MartinDubuque you can get a bambu lab FDM printer, it has very good quaility and literally is plug and print, very user friendly and it is a tool and not a project, for starters you have the A1 mini or the A1 for more build space
I like the way the layer lines orientation, make the cape look like fabric
This will probably get me into 3D printing. I wanted to print models for my TRPG games, but the more I looked into resin, the more I was discouraged, you have to take a lot of preparation with resin. I'm glad FDM printers caught up.
I'm new to printing and if you're on the fence about it just do it my Bambu lab A1 might be the best thing I've ever purchased it's just so fun and if you have a laptop a phone and some free time you can make your own stuff I'm currently learning how to use Nomad Sculpt and it's so easy not to sound like an infomercial but I'm just genuinely enjoying printing stuff
I've been printing fdm minis for 2 years now, started on old jgmaker a3s bedslinger. 0.2mm, 0.06mm layers. Now printing those at bambulab a1m and it works wonders. Glad more people are catching up on that.
Damn, it's nice to see FDM is close to my model standards. Not quite there yet, a bit too many layer lines for me still, but WOW it's neat to see how far it's come in 2 years.
That looks much better than I expected
I use an Ankermake M5 with 2mm nozzle! Absolutely love the results super easy to use
u could also get a soldering station, it has very precise iron ends that can be heated up to an exact temperature. So instead of gluing parts together you can melt them together, also you can smooth out certain areas by melting those layer lines. some soldering stations also have heat blower guns, but I havent found any use for mine yet in 3d printing. It's awesome that you listen to your community, way to go!
Good point & Great Tip! Heat guns can be suuuuper useful for blasting any super fine stringing and makes it way easier to flick off with a hobby knife!
One of the best videos I have seen on printing minis or figures in Filament.
I am a digital sculptor and 3D modeler, it has been almost a year since I acquired my first printer, an Elegoo Neptun 4, obviously not all of us can afford a resin printer and despite what they say, I am managing to print my figures in 12cm, with tremendous quality in a layer height of 0.08.
Not all of them are minis in life, there are also figures of those sizes, and I am really very happy with the quality and clarity with which my characters printed in PLA come out, without worrying about the toxicity of the resin, and everything that comes with a resin print.
But here you show that you can go much further, and you can practically compete with a resin one by having the appropriate configurations in a 0.2 nozzle.
Would you be so kind to share your settings?
Adaptive layer height will make these even better
Another great video, im so glad that there are people like you willing to experiment around and sharing the discoveries with the community.
Thank you!
@@Painted4Combat By the way, wanted to ask if you can make a video going more in-depth about Orca Slicer and nozzle settings
@@Izemalt @Painted4Combat Yes please we all would appreciate it
I would love to see how 10mm minis look with this technique!
Really appreciated the video comparing results between a 0.4 and 0.2 nozzles. Been considering a new nozzle to upgrade my Anycubic Kobra 2. This won't replace my resin printer any time soon, because a good resin printer can throughput an entire squad in less time than a single high quality FDM miniature. But it would be a great option individual miniatures, or for hobbyists looking for high quality results but don't have a safe/ventilated space for a resin printer. I mostly print terrain and scenic bases on my FDM, and even with a .4 nozzle always have to weigh the trade offs between finer detail and the time it takes to print. It is interesting that, in the future, we may speak of resin not as being the higher detail option but as the faster option.
I want that 2h hammer dude stl :P looks so cool!
Awesome!
I already use the Orca slicer and managed to print some 10mm marines and 6mm Necrons on my Bambu A1 Mini with the 0.2 nozzle. The later break rather easily and are hard to clean but dangling filament remains and damaged parts fit well for Necrons anyways and not much is lost if I have to throw a couple of them in the bin. 😁
Please make a video about propper suppor placement and maybe one about slicing miniature up in a program like Meshmixer for better prints!
BRO i appreciated your tips, my minis look awesome after i see your video thx
Super fun video and certainly educational, I look forward to your next one.
Greetings from Holland
Thanks 😊
subbed. cant wait to see these minis painted
Thank you! 🙌
Looking good! You can use a bit of tape to clean up the stringing. Better than vaporizing it into the air you breath.
Thats a great tip! Will have to try that out
ONLY thing to note and it probably got fixed already. But prusa slicer seems to handle overhangs better than orca since there was a bug that treated overhangs like bridges that was fixed after bambu labs slicer was forked.
Yup with a .2 nozzle and a .05 or .03 layer height will give you that resin quality look. The quality will be at the level of an Elegoo Mars 2 in detail level, no it won't be 4k or 90k detail level but for little table top minis, its perfectly sufficient. The reason for this is with the smaller nozzle, details that are smaller then the Nozzle Width will not be ignored, even with Arachne enabled.
I have been printing Grey Knights myself with a .4 nozzle, and am quite surprised at seeing the Rune details on the shoulders of the Terminators, actually coming through. The multi part model for Drago didn't really come out that well, so when my .2 nozzle comes I will re-try him again, if all else fails he might have to wait till I get a resin printer again.
Great follow up. It's nice to see the improvements and you not letting the resin huffers get to you.
One thing you might want to try, just for interest sake, is running resin supports, or pre-supported minis, through with added autosupports in orca. I've done this a couple of times - it drastically increases print time due to travel but.. Well, it would be interesting to see what your results are.
I started using Orca because the default Creality slicer didn't allow me access to a lot of the settings that other mini printers were using. It knocked about 10 - 15 minutes off a lot of my prints and printed with a better quality. I'm still using the .4 nozzle although I did buy some .2, but really haven't felt the need for them since I started using Orca.
If find that using models from a decent sculptor is a bigger key to successful minis than any particular Slicer settings. Printing minis has never been better!
Ha! I just printed that hammer marine. He's a cool one. Those look great!
The only issue you have with FDM rather than resin is time. For health reasons, I can't have a resin printer so I do everything via FDM. I know from getting mates do some resin for me, they can get a squad of 12 done in a day. I'm looking at 4 days given downtime. Now safeguarding my health is important and so is printing all year round. I'm interested in how you progress. I'm still doing terrain so haven't swapped out the 0.6 for the 0.2 but it will be soon.
just got my first 3d printer and you video is so helpfull for me. would like to see a video for models bigger than 180mm. have some dragon models i really want to print.
this would be amazing usecase for multimaterial where the supports are petg
Thanks for the advice! I'm probably gonna get a 0.2mm nozzle in the future now for by brothers models
It would be interesting to see the print time differences and qualities between different printers (I have a p1s)
Kudos dude, I made a comment that wasn't very positive in the last video. Not because I don't believe FDM can produce good minis but because the quality you showed were not showing that. These are much much better. But I am surprised that you get this quality without atleast tuning the motion system. The layer lines in your last video looked a lot like they were inconsistent as in z banding meaning your movement system wasn't tight. That going away with changing nozzles to a smaller one is weird. But yeah those look great. Good Job.
Thanks for tuning back in then! I have done some physical calibration since then and tightened a few of the axis nuts up, the usual upkeep. when I do a settings video in the future ill be sure to mention the steps I took. Thanks for taking the time to comment 😄
Impressive I might have to look into getting an FDM printer one of these days maybe for Christmas...
Yeeeah, thanks for trying! I knew you would love it
As someone with an FDM printer(ender 5 with upgraded smoothsteppers) and somepne whos new to wh40k figurines. This gives me great hope.
Gonna prove my FDM-negative friend wrong with this😂
Hopefully they're a swayable FDM-negative person - some people cannot be swayed 😂
Happy printing!
I'm actually looking at getting into FDM printing now with a Bambu A1 Mini. Resin has been a non-starter for me; I have a tiny house, pets, and a roommate with some significant chemical allergies.
Yeah im the same, Resin just aint an option. The A1 seems like the way to go at the moment, great pick!
biggest issue with FDM minis, is that you need 0.2 that tends to clog faster, and models on 28mm bases like Tau Pathfinders are hard to get the details being so small
Wow. This is great.
I'd be happy with that quality. It's not perfect but it's good enough for tabletop for sure and without the hassle and cost of resin.
My only concern is that it's taking 9h for one mini and two minis would take take twice as long, while a resin printer can print out a whole plate at a time without going any slower.
I'd be interested in comparing the experience of printing out and cleaning up 10-20 models and and a tank resin vs doing the same in FDM. That's a larger project, I don't know whether you'd want to do something like that.
Been looking into 3D printing for WarHams 30k/40k, so I’m pretty fresh when it comes to what socket goes with what ball, so to speak.
I *think* I’ve got a printer that I want (a BambuLabs entry model for FDM printing), but I need a bit more information in regards to the following:
-How difficult each FDM plastic is to work with
-How difficult FDM is to work with vs resin
-What needs to be done in regards to setting up the printer’s workspace prior to printing
-How to print FDM safely without landing myself/others in the hospital
-What features should be top priority when shopping for a FDM printer (specifically features oriented towards printing minis)
-The differences between a resin-oriented slicer and a FDM-oriented one
TL;DR: Looking to get into 3D printing, need help with the basics before I hurt myself like an idiot.
Awesome to hear someone else is getting into the hobby!
Lets take this from the top.
- PLA is the most common FDM plastic and is very easy to work with and well documented, its much less temperamental than other FDM plastics and doesn't emit toxic fumes like other materials.
- FDM and Resin both have their difficulties, with FDM youll spend more time calibrating your print settings and tuning your printer whereas Resin requires external cleaning and curing.
- For setting up a space, if you use PLA plastic on an FDM machine you can simply just put the printer on your desk/table and go for it, if you use PETG (not ideal for minis) then youd need an enclosure to keep moisture out and vent fumes. Resin you would need your printer, a IPA container (or 2) for cleaning, a curing station and a way to 100% vent the harmful resin and IPA fumes.
- FDM is pretty safe if you use PLA, just dont go touching the 200*C peice of metal and you'll be sweet!
- Features for printing minis; as long as the printer can do a minimum layer height of 0.08 or under (ideally 0.05 or 0.04) and the nozzle can be swapped to a 0.2, you're pretty much in business. Any recent Bambu machine should be great from what ive heard, especially if its the A1 or A1 Mini.
- FDM vs Resin slicers are completely different and output files for the different technologies. A resin slicer gives you settings for resin printers and outputs image masks for each layer where the printer needs to produce light to cure resin, whereas and FDM slicer generates a path for the printer to move the nozzle along and extrude molten plastic.
Overall, resin is better if you have a spare, well ventilated room and a way to exhaust fumes and dont mind the cleanup and curing process; resin will always give you better details and little to no layer lines or print artifacts. if you want an easier set-and-forget type machine you can have on your desk then FDM is the way to go, youre just sacrificing a bit of quality (and speed) for a "safer" machine that doesnt need chemicals or special ventilation.
If you are looking for more FDM mini videos, I 100% recommend checking out "Once in a Six Side" - he has great FDM and Resin printing videos, check out his A1 and A1 Mini review!
@@Painted4Combat hey, thanks for taking the time to not only read this but also comment!
The information you’ve provided here is going to be incredibly helpful when I’m making my purchase! Thanks!
Of course!
A quick hit with a heat gun (a smaller one) will clean up with stringing almost instantly. Another tip that a lot of people don't use is to make sure your outer walls are printing first. Overhangs can have issues with this, but the outside walls of the model become so much smoother. Also, if you're doing anything above about 60 on your outside walls, slow down a little. It's not a race, it's about making something really good.
Will give the Outside walls first a try for sure! Thanks for the tip.
I don't have a heat gun but a quick pass over with a light works to 👍
@@wstate I wouldn't be at all surprised if a quick pass with a flame improved paint and glue adhesion too. This is a trick that works wonders on granny grating.
I'm doing some test helmets on my 0.2 nozzle and 0.1 layers, easing down the layer height as I dial the settings in, and the cooling tower tip really helped. While I'd normally print multi-object plates object by object, I instead did them layer by layer and put each helmet a bit far away from the other. Same effect. So, oddly enough, if you have two models you want to print that have about the same height, they work as fine cooling towers against each other.
Most printers have 0.04 steppers so 0.12 or 0.08 are probably better options for layer height
LOL well... if we are talking nozzle sizes, a .06mm nozzle and vase mode makes bases MUCH better.
Small suggestion but once the prints are done hit them with a hair dryer to get rid of the wispy strings on them.
This is an awesome print, able to share your print profile to try out
Still figuring out a few final tweaks to my settings then i'll do a follow up video in a few weeks with a User Profile 🙌
I own both types of printer, and they have their strengths and weaknesses, but for me it's resin every time for mini for one simple reason. Even an entry level resin printer can print an entire squad of minis in the time that it takes a mid-range FDM printer to print a single model. He said that some of those minis took over 7 hours for a single model. That's about two build plates worth of models on a cheap resin printer. So maybe 10-14 models depending on how cheap you go.
How long does the entire finishing & clean up process take?
@PerfectionHunter I'm not person from post, but I can answer your question :) 15min +- : few minutes washing, few curing, and removing support it is way easer on resin then on fdm - just use heatgun and they pop off, but... Its messy, and it smells horrible, I have separte room with big filtration unit but still I hate using it :D fdm on other hand is greate for everything else, terrain, single character, tanks, etc
@@PerfectionHunter my resin printer, with the settings I have, takes less time to clean up then a plastic model. The supports pop off and a quick hard edge makes it smooth very fast. I dont use a heat gun or anything special either, just have to dial in your printer to find that sweet spot where supports are strong enough to support, but not enough to leave pock marks.
@@szaibot agreed, just rinse in ipa for5 minutes soak in warm water and pull right off
20 minutes @@PerfectionHunter
This looks very good and i am glad one can get nice minis without needing to deal with resin. I am curious though: is the quality heavily dependent on the model suiting fdm (chunky space marines seem easier than fragile elves) or can you get pretty much any model in this quality with a bit of fiddeling. Gotta say, especially for people who are 10% hobbyist and 90% gamer, this is it!
Yeah - it might limit your STL selection to 80-90% of what available, super thin minis are difficult but I've been printing Hero Forge minis with no issue if that's a good point of comparison for ya! Anything that's Heroic scale or that isn't to "realisticly" proportioned should be fine (in my experience so far).
gorgeous
This is really impressive stuff. I might consider finally investing in an FDM machine now. The quality is still way off for figures IMO and I don't think FDM tech will ever close the gap but I'm actually considering one for terrain.
I have an FDM printer for terrain and I have been able to get good results even without fine tuning. I also print scenic bases with it.
I mean, yes and no.
If you dont want to put much effort to paint them its fine.
But for me, i would not mind to make an awesome paintjob on FDM-Minis. Maybe some Speedpaints, thats it. Decals are a nightmare aswell.
And if you need more minis FDM takes ages compared to resin.
For now i stick to resin when it comes to minis, FDM for 3D maps and bigger stuff.
I would maybe put the mini in a short acetone vapor bath just to smooth out the lines slightly, I do see a bit of stringing but nothing major might want to adjust the heat slightly. Other wise this is looking good.
Yeah! Haven't adjusted my retraction fully since swapping from 0.4 to 0.2 so stringing is still a bit wild. Acetone might be a nice way to polish these off if I'm seeing to many layer lines after Primer.
Can you go into more detail for supports? I have tried chitu lychee and a few other FDM slicers and I just cannot get any decent supports like I do with resin. Would love to see that in more detail when you do the setting vid
Paint it to compare !
Most printers can print down to 0.04 layer height. But probably turn on variable layer height to reduce print time if you go that low
Yeah, the only downside of the Neptune 3 pro is that its minimum height is 0.08 - ive tried going lower but it does casue issues, so im assuming the 0.08 is accurately its minimum. Good call though!
Love this
Im printing my 28mm miniatures (space marine like, OPR models etc) on my bambu A1 with a .2 mm nozzle and the 0.08mm high quality setting. Have made tweaks to supports(and brims) but nothing else. Supports and mostly the only issues i have run into.
But...my prints are taking two hours, tops. I dont get how these can take 8 or 9 hours...per model!
I love your videos, and used your last slicer/settings video to increase the quality on my FDM Ender 3 printer. Would you make a video on the settings for the new slicer your using and what settings?
Yes yes! just figuring out my last few bits and bobs since im new to Orca Slicer, but once im locked in ill share my new profile and settings in another video!
@@Painted4Combat Thank you so very much! I'm not very tech savvy with the 3d printing, so you are awesome for sharing your work! I love your videos and look forward to your D&D campaign as well!
Now you need to get a color changer and have pre-colored minis 😂
Now theres a thought 😂
Great video! Printer noob here. I am thinking of getting a Bamboo A1 next year but I wondered: Can I print any STL file or does it have to be a specific type of file? Im scared that I wont find many good files to do warhammer prints. thanks in advance
A1 is a great choice! any STL's you can find on Websites like Cults3d, MyMiniFactory, CGtrader, just have to keep an eye out. and STL is just the most common format, sometimes youll get OBJs or other file types but most slicers can handle those just fine! Many "warhammer" models come and go, so just make sure you grab files when you see them, especially if they are close proxies for GW models, they get taken down pretty fast xD
For me, Resin just isn't worth it, with the toxic materials, the space requirements, high material costs, high upfront costs (for printer, washing and curing stations), and hassling with respirators etc.
I'm looking for some Space Marines to print. Can you recommend somewhere to get them?
Artel W Miniatures has some great sculpts!
Also check out the Space Bears by TabletopTime, very cool range!
I’m looking for somewhere to download Space Marines stl’s or similar too, any links would be a great help
Where are you getting your STLs and what are your setting? Thanks!
awesome vid! some of the music doesn't really fit well though imho
I have a k1c I switched to a .2 nozzle but there isn't a .2 profile for k1c on Orca slicer. Any suggested where to start?
I had the same issue for the Neptune 3 pro. All i did was the following;
- - Printer Settings - -
Nozzle Diameter = 0.2
- - Print Profile - -
Quality = change ALL my "line width" settings to half the default value used for the 0.4mm nozzle
Walls = 4 (i use 3 walls on my 0.4mm nozzle, but found that 4 or higher is much better idea for a 0.2)
so really all i had to do was just tell it I was using a 0.2mm nozzle. nothing too fancy! the rest of my 0.4 settings worked great for the 0.2.
If you find your printer is struggling to push out filament try increasing the temperature by 5-10 degrees and slow down your speeds by 20-25%
Hope this helps!
whats the best way to get rid of the fuzz? quick pass with a heat gun?
Yeah! if you cant just nick it off with a hobby knife a heatgun is the go-to
I’ve been printing since 2017 from using a CR-10 to the K1 MAX and many people wouldn’t stop talking about 0.4 nozzles for their speed however at that time there weren’t Core XY printers so I’ll look into 0.2mm nozzles thanks to your video.
I wonder if you used ironing for these prints
No ironing on these!
@@Painted4Combat damn, that’s really impressive
Nice job? What filament are you using?
Just standard Elegoo PLA. I find it has a nice finish, a slight flexibility that's nice for minis, and it's super cheap.
It can struggle a bit on overhangs without proper cooling which I think is a result of it's slightly flexible nature, but it's a fine trade-off imo.
@@Painted4Combattry the sunlu meta. Also Fat dragon games has some really nice pre sets for miniatures
@@Painted4Combat Hi! Sorry to bother you but I just found your channel in my youtube recommendations. I watched your video but I don't seem to see what FDM 3D printer model are you using. Could you tell me which one it is? Thank you!
@@terraxcell hi, did you try the meta? I'm having a bad time setting it on my Mega S. What I think is the worst problem is that it melts to easy and small parts aren't possible. I also find difficult to have consistent results. ESUN PLA+ gave me better results on minis.
@@adfasadf-h3g Looks like Elegoo Neptuine 4 (or maybe pro?)
first of all, great video. Question related to the "strings" of filament on the models, how do you clean those?
Yeah! your probably talking about the Orc and Mephit shown at the end, I did very little cleanup on those.
Usually its easy enough to run the back of a hobby knife along those areas (same way i'd go about removing sprue lines from a plastic model).
- otherwise blasting them with some heat (heatgun or superheated hairdryer) will cause them to curl up into little blobs that can be flicked off easily with a knife.
@@Painted4Combatcool thanks for explaining.
Did you ever try to „polish“ the minis to smooth some of the layer lines, e.g. with a dremel tool?
Can you share the settings you used in Orca Slicer?
Still figuring out a few final tweaks to my settings then i'll do a follow up video in a few weeks with a User Profile 🙌
Could you try printing WWII infantry?
I was checking the price of the elegoo nep 3 pro and saw the nep 4 pro is only like $50 more, so you think it is a good enough upgrade over the 3 to spend the extra money on? I don't know anything about printers, just getting in to it
I haven't been hands on with the 4, apparently it a few very minor "upgrades" and comes with Klipper by default which lets the 4 series printers print faster (not sure if this has quality drawbacks or not). I would recommend just looking at the youtuber 'Uncle Jessy', pretty sure he has videos on both printers, and go from there!
Uhhh say you forgot to uncheck the "Emit limites to G-code" box.... what do?
If you leave it checked the acceleration/movement speed settings of the file you slice will overwrite the printers default speeds once you load the file. so if the print is set to travel slowly (which Orca does by default) it will make ALL future movements of the printer slow (even after the print finishes)
Another thing you could try is to get a diamond nozzle. Print anything forever.
How durable are things like spears and swords with FDM?
Depends on their thickness. As long as they have some thickness to them (like the weapons shown here) my personal experience is that they're more likely to survive being dropped than a resin print, but still not has durable as a plastic model kit from a sprue.
Really good videos with fdm showcasing! , how did the changing the 0.2 nozzle on the elegoo machine go? heard it was a big hazzle and might wanted to just buy a whole new head so you can switch around instead of replacing?,
when you say "perfect out of box" is that in terms of slicer settings? ive only been using orca and love it. or did u change the standart orca settings, for some of the things you talked about in this and earlier videoes?
By 'perfect out of the box' I meant I just had adjust my current settings for the 0.2 nozzle (orca doesn't have a default 0.2 for the neptune 3) but I had dialed in some of those settings beforehand.
As for swapping the nozzle I quite literally just removed the silicon shoe on the printhead and I was able to unscrew the 0.4 and screw in the 0.2 without any hassle of pulling anything apart.
@@Painted4Combat what about the speeds? Is orca slicer set to the same speeds etc. as the other slicer you show in your other video?
Any idea if the p1s is as good as the a1 for minis?
From a "spectators view" the A1 seems like the way to go;
I would recommend checking out these videos to help with your choice!
th-cam.com/video/Udf6Hh38CDs/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/KfB_S_IuF_8/w-d-xo.html
Would be interested to know if printing using 0.4mm nozzle sliced with orca produces better results than the same mini printed slicing with prusaslicer.
Have a k1c and did some tests comparing a 0.4 nozzle and 0.2 nozzle both sliced with orca and the 0.2mm nozzle produced only very slightly better results than the 0.4, not enough of an improvement to warrant the extra time.
So I'm wondering if the big improvement you saw was due to the slicer rather than the nozzle?
Good plan! Will try and do a proper comparison in the future!
I still have trouble sometimes removing supports on thin parts and weapons etc. Also where did you get the marines files?
Artel W Miniatures for the main showcase one, the one featured is a free sample model
the other one is a Space Bear by Tabletop Time!
You should see what terrabloks are doing with FDM and its not wit a .2mm Nozzle
Sorry but for them to be printet on as Elegoo mashine then look awesome. My neptune 4 plus is not able to do that. My X1C yes but not my Elegoo
Where can I find the STLs?
I haven't tried prusa slicer as I've been solely using ultimaker cura. Would you still suggest moving to Orca compared to Cura?
And Bambu to Orca?
Cura is a great slicer to get to know 3d printing and comfortable with slicing software, but if you're comfortable enough with 3d printing then Orca Slicer is definitely a good next step as you get access to a few more settings and orcas tree supports are easily the best in the game (that I have used so far)
As for Bambu, it's tricky. I thing it will depend on what printer you're using. The new babmu printers seem to be highly tuned in for their slicers from what I'm seeing. Bambu slicer seems to allow for "easy" printing out of the box, but orca might be worth a go if you want to have more control over some of the more hidden settings.
Going from Bambu to Orca was pretty easy in my opinion as they use the same code base
having user profile would really have been usefull.
Still figuring out a few final tweaks to my settings then i'll do a follow up video in a few weeks with a User Profile 🙌
That's some of the best FDM quality minis I've seen, but I wouldn't call it resin quality.
I mean the quality is good, really nice job there, but comparing it to resin quality is just clickbait lets be honest... I dont think you need to compare them, resin printers have tons of cons, but the pro is the amazing quality you get. The other side of the coin is filament, really easy nowadays but the quality is worse. Theres nothing wrong with that.
PLS SHARE YOUR SETTINGS!!
For FDM those look amazing. But that’s still comparable to a $100 resign printer. Probably similar to a 2k or overrated 4k printer.
That being said I love the progress FDM has made it and can’t wait until resign is obsolete because I hate resign and love FDM. But both have their uses and both have their obvious limitations
Yeah definitely, the fact that it's comparable at all is amazing though. My apartment is too small to allow for the fumes and space requirements of resin printing so the fact that I can get results like this from fdm is great.
Space marine cosplayer minis, cool!
i just did an Intercessor in a 0.4 nozzle at 0,08 layer height at 25 speed and it took one hour and a half... how does your took 6 and 9?... 1: 30 is already too much time for a mini as it is.
my issues so far aren't layer lines but the supports, i will test make overhands printable and filling some gaps to see if it solves some of the rough edges.
But you can put 5 miniatures on the plate and have it print over night and then do another plate while at work.
This should give you plenty Marines to paint in the evening! 😁
It doesn't work like resin, in FDM it adds up, 5 at 1: 30hrs each sure, 5 at 6hrs will take the whole day
That without taking in consideration all the time finding, fixing and supporting the models, sheeesh, it's not easy and is not that cheap either. *Facepalm*
@@Badbufon I was talking about the "1.5 hours is already to much"... Sure if it takes 6-9 hours for a single miniature then you end up with 2 miniatures a day.
I dont know about you but I and probably most of the rest of the wargaming population wont be able to consistently paint 60 miniatures every month...
sure, but those are more like game pieces than candidates for a golden demon tho, even at 0.2 the details will be rough and some stuff won't print correctly. just slap chop them with the cheapest craft paints on sight lol
@@Badbufon Absolutely! Thats kinda the perfect level for my painting skills! :D
Did the print time really say over 7 hours? If so 4:08 that alone makes this not worth my time. in that time i can print 12 of that mini in a higher resolution wash and cure them then cleanup after myself. Im not going to pretend layer lines don't exist on resin but layer lines are the most off putting thing to 3d printed goods. yes these minis are better than no minis but saying that mini was good enough to be a hero character is a big stretch.
orca slicer is a clone of Prussia slicer. Anybody care to offer more details on why is better than the other. Is the improved quality objective ? Can it be quantified ?
Not sure about too many of the details yet, I prefer the way it handles solid infill areas for small models, but mainly the "tree supports" are miles better than the default prusa "organic" ones; much nicer.
Man my bambu a1 prints significantly better ones then those
That still looks like absolute garage quality compared to resin
You're correct, resin prints are better for the most part, but you forget the fact that not everyone has the correct conditions for resin printing. No matter what, it's a daunting task to print, maintain, wash, cure minis, etc. Not to mention the costs, health risks and space needed for both ventilation and surface area. Anyone who say "just open a window" really don't know what they are talking about. FDM? Print and Forget. Post processing? Scrape the surface a bit. I print at 0.04 mm layer height using a Bambu Lab printer, and the only difference between resin prints and my fdm minis are time spent print. I've checked. I don't have ADHD, neither, so I don't care about time.
Well duh. Even an old SLA printer will have 0.05mm layer height.
That's not the point of the video. It's that you can do finer detail if you switch the nozzle on an FDM.
I personally would let a 12 year old use an FDM printer, but I wouldn't let them anywhere near an SLA printer.
@@helgehansen4458 I can only agree, where I live, houses are uncommon. I live in a flat, impossible to install any ventilation. The printer would sit right next to my work desk I sit at all day every day. The last thing I want is getting fumed all the time. Space is also a concern. While I could fit a printer, the wash / cure stations wouldn't without seriously expanding the hobby area (I doubt my gf would like that). So all in all, it's unfeasable for me to use resin. It's also a hassle, produces lots of waste (I wouldn't want to go to the local garbage disposal to get rid of dirty iso, but I would have to, though I believe that many people just chuck it). So if I can produce good enough quality prints, where you'll only be able to spot the difference under the macro lens or really up close, but not from 1.5m away on the gaming table, I couldn't care less.
On the note of the bambu lab printer and 0.04 mm layer height, which printer do you use ? I wanted to grab myself a A1 mini but it's hard to find info on what the lowest layer height possible is.
I use the A1 mini, as I live in an apartment as well and I'm sharing an office space with my wife. My printer is sitting only half a meter away from me, and I've had no issues at all in that regard. I use the basic grey PLA and it's definitely feasible to print 0.04 layer height consistently, without any problems at all for the most part. As long as the first layer is adhered to the bed, like with any other FDM printer, them you're good.
Hope this helps.
@@helgehansen4458 agree completley , But shop bought mini's already painted look alot better than resin printed ones ,so i will just buy my figurines from a shop .
C'mon, stop blowing wind up the ass of FDM. It's not "resin quality".
And I don't get people who say resin printing is such a hassle. They probably all suck at space optimization and/or are very lazy and clumsy.
You're incorrect, the bambu labs printers can really get to that level of some resin printers. You really cant tell once you get some primer / paint on them
1:30 smaller nozzle doesnt account for less layer line visibility . only plus in quality you get is in the x-y direction
Yep! I think the main improvement in Layer Line quality came from having to slow the prints down a but more for 0.2 nozzle. Im planning a follow up video with my settings where I'll explain why these look better than my old ones.
@@Painted4Combat cool! I've been thinking about whether or not I should change to a 0.2mm nozzle but I print other things as well and those are easier with a 0.4
0:25 I’m so embarrassed. I just noticed the typo. “Like like” instead of “look like”. I’ll take the L on that one.