She is beautiful. My Dad gave me the key to his 72 C10 Deluxe when I got my drivers license. It was ten years old and had become his farm truck. I eventually let her go for a new car because it was the 80s. I want another one, however I don't care if it's 67, 68, 69, 70 or 71. I look at it like this, a second generation C10 is a beautiful thing no matter the year.
@@JeckleH I had a 1972 Chevy C-10 in high school (graduated 74 for context). It was a long bed with a 350 V8, 4 bbl carb and automatic transmission. I loved that truck, and hauled our motorcycles around or go camping with it. When I moved from California to NJ in 78 that’s what I drove and had it quite awhile before I finally sold it. I kind of wish I still had it after having my 2013 Ford F-150 4X4 and all the problems that came with those twin turbos and quite frankly it seems like all the new vehicles have gotten more expensive, unreliable and overly complicated to work on unlike my C-10.
Also, the first gen c10s had coils in the rear. That did not debut in 1967 but more like 1960. You could also get a C20 or C30 long bed step side. Step sides weren't just short beds or half ton options.
My father couldn't say enough good things about the 292. When I was a little boy he had two C30's, a late 60's and an early 70's, one was a dually. His 58 Bellaire, and those two trucks were the only vehicles he regretted selling.
Since everything else was covered, I'll add in my little bit of info. The '67-72 C10 were indeed rear coil suspension, but an HD optional rear leaf spring suspension was available. I don't have the factory order code in front of me since my '68 isn't at my house at the moment, but mine has the HD rear leaf suspension with 12 bolt rear axle. To add, it has came with the 327 V8 with 4 bbl Carter Quadrajet, as well as a TH400 transmission. It was a special order out of California. Yes, I have most of the build sheet, it was stuffed inside the springs of the bench seat. I had managed to save it and tape it together. I had picked it up in running and driveable condition for the meager price of $500.00 back in sept. of 2003. The owner was going to part it out, but I couldn't see letting the truck go out in parts, so I bought it.
Robert Emmons hey how's the mpg is it bad a 68 C10 long bed because I'm thinking of getting one but I want to daily drive it and take it on vacation for a trip long trip is it bad mpg or not really I really love this vintage trucks compare to the new ones I had a 97 F-350 XLT crew cab long bed diesel 7.3L power Stroke made 17 mpg max 18.5 no towing that's why so how will a 68 C10 will be mpg no hardcore stuff
@@AlejandroP1980s I use to get upwards of 18 mpg on factory drivetrain, but now I'm getting 10-13 mpg after the engine rebuild, edelbrock carb upgrade, and a rear axle swap.
Robert Emmons ok thanks a friend of mines sells me a 68 C10 restore paint good and new tires and battery inside and out restore perfectly working without any issues of stop in the middle of the road but I think I will get 14 mpg highest 15 what you think good or not good
@@AlejandroP1980s it seems that no matter what pickup it is anymore it seems that the fuel mileage are all roughly the same. If I swap out my cam, go back to my Q-Jet, and reinstall highway gearing I'll be able to get back at 15 or better, especially if I go with an OD transmission.
The rear coil springs were on the first generation - it was not new in '67. At first the pickup has torsion bar front suspension and switched to all coil in '63 iirc. You could get a long box stepside into the eighties. They didn't have a K30 until '78.
It is rare to find a 68 Chevy C10 in such a fine, restored condition. It is a beautiful sight to see a restored 2nd generation C10. Whoever did this one knew what to do.
yep ive been looking for about 5 years , they are either rusted, thrashed, modified, too expensive, too far away, unregistrable, there is little video info out there about keeping an old truck running
My dad gave me his 73 c10 wich used to race at sanoma raceway and its rusted to the point were you can kick through it but these are good project trucks
cars it’s a carbonated big block. Not hard to figure out with general automotive skills. Good spark, keep the carbs clean and functional and in adjustment and it shouldn’t ever stop
Even though I'm a square body GM guy, I do have a soft spot for the 2nd gen trucks. Dad had one on the farm when I was a kid. This video mentions the "truck arm" coil spring rear suspension. I'd like to point out that this design was only used on the light duty C-10s. If you're looking at a "heavy half" or a C-20 or 30, they used leaf springs out back as did ALL of the K models. Dads truck did have the coil spring rear suspension along with a 327 and powerglide trans.
they also forgot to mention longhorn beds and these trucks could be order as a c series 4wd to get different options for the owner. I actually own a 1969 Chevy c/20 4 wheel drive
I've several of these trucks. I had a 68 custom long bed GMC which had leaf springs and factory AC. I have a 67 C10 now and the only option on it was a wooden bed floor. In 67 you could order it with factory AC and factory big back glass in the cab. I've only seen a very few with the big back glass. Im still in search of a 67 big back glass can with AC.
Pretty much sums it up, but also remember these trucks came with wood beds, so if your looking for a really elegant truck shoot for the wood beds they look and feel so much more than the steel. And if your looking to restore, think about 15-20k and that's not including the price of truck to purchase (project). Out here in AZ we have a whole bunch, try southwest, no snow and dry weather better for steel.
Here's a question that gets alot of people: when is the last time lifters were pulled for a clean & inspect? There's this myth out there that hydraulic lifters need no maintenance, but... that's upside down - they need to be totally disassembled one at a time [to stay straight on what cam lobe each came off of]. They need periodic cleaning [50k miles give or take depending on oil quality and general maintenance] to get rid of sludge etc that may build up/gets trapped over time and causes plungers to misbehave or check balls to leak by. Me? I disassemble new ones before install just to make sure all parts are in good order and on occasion have found metal flakes from manufacturing that ought not be there Personally, solid lifters are less trouble - if you have screw in studs installed, use lash caps and are mindful of cylinder head temp when adjusting lash - most old school mechanics never logged temps at time of adjustment, which is one reason why people chase valve lash more often than is needed.
I bought a used 1970 c10 on Labor Day weekend 1985 , it had 70 some thousand miles on it , I don’t drive it anymore just start it & let it run once in awhile , I plan to restore but probably won’t be until I retire , at least 2 more years maybe longer
I have the exact same truck I cannot wait to fix it up it’s backfiring and now it’s not starting at all I wish i was a better mechanic but I’m learning
I'm late to the show, but wanted to call out Hagerty's narrator. Hagerty is my company of choice for a couple vehicles. It seems, however, their narrators are not well versed as they should be. CST did not necessitate bucket seats and center "buddy" seat, but it was the only way to get them. Trim was the most obvious difference for the CST. THE CST was the highest trim level, from 1967 through 1970.
When I lived in CA about 20 years ago, guy had a 70 or 71 c10 short bed with rear leafs. I had to do triple take. The story goes the forestry and other CA state agencies who needed c 10's got them with rear leafs like a 2wd k-10. The c20's I have seen more commonly both ways and the c30 all had leafs.
C-10 didn’t introduce until 63. 60-62 was still Apache. Coil springs were on the 64-66s also. And I’m almost certain this one has the wrong steering wheel. That should have a three post color matched steering wheel.
These old Chevy trucks are cool as hell, but I always liked the GMC trucks just a little more because they have 4 headlights instead of 2. I dont know why I like that better, I just think that looks way cooler.
1968 was the first year of federally mandated side marker lights, which this truck has. It is a cleaner look without the side markers, which is why I prefer the 1967 model. What I like even better is series-1 C10s, 1960 - 1966.
I have a 74 c10 but I always loved these older 67-72 trucks...I want one really bad. its gotta be a 68 or 69 long bed 2wd with a 327 and 3 speed manual
Ironically, I have a 68 long bed, currently with a straight 6 and 3 on the tree. I had the 6 rebuilt years ago but would really like a 327 which I have one located. Most guys want me to put in a 700r4 tranny but I want to keep the manual.Can't beat the sound of a Chevy small block, winding out 2nd gear!
Any pointers on how to identify numbers on 69 through 72 c10 I am in the market just to be on the safe side I understand tag on the door driver side Glove compartment last but not least left side Front frame Bye the Strong will, Chef thank you
Beautiful truck. The 68 on the video had the marker lights working. Truth is the 68-69 had the reflector and light combo but the light was not hooked up until the 70 models came out. The 68 you showed had the lights working. Cool but not original.
This is indeed a '68, because of the side markers. I was surprised to see a '72 steering wheel. The correct steering wheel for this one would have been the interior color and a circular horn cover.
I have a 68 and the emergency brake & wheel are different I think someone put this Frontend on this truck cuz it’s the best looking front end if you ask me
Great video. I’m glad that you drove it. How tall are you? You look cramped in that cabin. I like to drive with my are close to fully extended on the steering wheel. Now I know for sure I need to look into a classic truck with bigger cabin
Can anyone help me figure out what my 1969 c20 custom camper is worth? Details -Breaklights dont work nor do reverse lights so I wired up a switch in the meantime. -It was repainted a dark metallic green amateur at best. -It has a rustic 1969 472 Cadillac engine that idles high but sounds mean as hell. -The interior had the radio removed and replaced but thankfully left the dash uncut the aftermarket speakers cut into the sides by my feet tho. -I took out the new radio and now there is a bunch of loose wires that need rerouting. -Seat has a tear with a wire poking out and black paint stains on it the passenger side. -It needs a new tailgate -Dash plastic is cracked and worn and black paint on dash is scratched up. -Crome was painted black and so were all Chevy badges amateur work. - Bed is misaligned but frame is good with no rust. - Interior and carpet were painted/dyed black. - Transmission needs rebuilding and gears were dropped to the floor off the column and shifter is now an 8 ball. - Bed is sold but has a few dents - The speedometer doesn't work - Exhaust was chopped and taken out the sides. Note: I did none of the previous work except 2 things the owner ratted it out which I liked at the time when I was 16 but now I'm 19 and want an original rustic c10 stepside. I paid 3k for him and most people really like the look of him and the people that dont said it grew on them over time. Edit: (I call him Orc because of the paint and mostly everyone else does too.) He Has 18k miles and a clean title just not sure what the value is dont want to sell or anything just looking to see if I overpaid.
I can tell you basically how much: PRICELESS. Seriously, It sounds like my 72. I plan on keeping mine. I've put a lot of time and a ginormous amount of change into mine (Retired Military). From radiator support, fenders/inner fenders, doors, floor pans, complete bed and other miscellaneous stuff. When I got mine, It was a work in progress but I wouldn't sell it for a million dollars. Just how I am. It's a labor of love if you are into stuff like that. It took me about 3 years to make my mind up and a year to start collecting parts (Classic Industries, LMC).What ever you paid for the truck you will recoup in smiles when you complete your truck. Keep your head up Lil' Brother and stay away from fads and make that truck your own.
Hello, I have same Chevrolet pick up as you in France, it is a C / 20 model 292! 6 on-line cylinders gasoline(essence) of 1970. He(it) starts very well under cold conditions, but very badly under heat! Met you problem? Thank you good day
I've got my eye on a beautiful black 65 c10 manual. It's got beautiful pin stripe accents on the hood and around the body. Asking about $12k. Also a white 84-86 c10. Asking about $10k. Both appear to be in really nice condition. Both are close to home so it's time to see it in person. Also my grandpa gave me his 79 c10 Cheyenne stepside. It's been pulled apart and sitting in the woods since 93. That's going to to be a serious project. I'm not mechanically inclined by any means. I want to build my grandpa's old truck but I am afraid it could be too far gone. I'm torn between building it or buying one. Help! I've got my eye on several trucks but those two I mentioned are the main ones. One day I will have one
I found a 68' C10 long bed, seller is asking 6k for it. It seems too good to be true. Even though I want a 84' Chevy k10...I think I should pounce on this one.
@@freemansgarage as bad as I wanted a the C10..it was a rust bucket. I ended finding a rust free 84 Dodge D150 318 5.2 V8. It's not the C10 but I finally have my Square body American muscle truck! I couldn't be happier!👍🦅🇺🇸🦅
'' a drop ladder frame that lowered the cab height '' : modern engineers should take note of this ''innovation'' ... instead of trying any kind of lowering tail-gate, among other things .
69 c-10 standard trim with a 350 and a turbo hydra magic, first wheels I ever drove. It brings back fond memories, couldn't see over the steering wheel, to be fair, I was only 10; driving out to the field at dawn, it was a simpler, better time, Bush was still in the white house, there was no Facebook, the police weren't on your ass the way they are now and yes, they are getting tougher on non minorities as well, Do you think a little kid could carry a hunting rifle today, they'd call him a school shooter when all he wanted was to bag a couple jack rabbits, nobody worried about gluten free, We didn't know what political correctness was, and people respected each other. Like I said, a better time, and I'm not even that old.
Actually, my 68' C-10 will roast your bag off in the winter it has excellent stock heating, in the summertime you'll roast your bag off, unless you're moving down the road and got those "wing-windows" open then its not too bad! TL'DR The following is a long story about my adventures in automotive upholstery repair and boy oh boy, I had no idea what I was in for... The original bench seat in my old pick-up was severely beat-down on the side edges, the vinyl cover was torn, cracked and falling apart with broken springs poking through it as well. Literally, after one hour of cruising around in the summertime you would be sitting in a pool of sweat with a serious backache! I used to wad up old t-shirts, stuff them in the holes and cover it all up with a blanket just to barely tolerate it! Then one day I got fed up with doing this and decided it was finally time to refurbish the bench seat in my pick-up truck. First off, I started by ripping the 40+ year old fragmented vinyl cover off, gutted the burlap and real cotton stuffed jute knit piece of garbage seat padding. So now what... I had a huge mess and didn't know exactly what to do or what I could use to even fix this old broken down bench seat? I went in the house to take a break for lunch while I looked on-line to find a local upholstery shop and I found a old furniture upholstery shop nearby. It was around 1:00PM and I was thinking the shop might be open on a Saturday until 3:00PM, so, I called the phone number and a guy actually answered! OK cool, a real human being to speak with, imagine that... I asked him how late he would be open today, he said until 5:00PM. SUCCESS! So, I quickly hopped in the car and drove down to talk to this guy, now at first, he started giving me a bit of the usual I'm too busy type of blow-off or run-around and excuses! He told me that because it was an old classic, it might be hard to get parts to fix the seat and it would likely end up costing a minimum of $500 or even upwards of $1000 just to fix the framework and re-cover it if you could even "find" the parts to fix it, really, 500-1000 bucks? Yeah, I don't even know what the hell this guy was thinking... Italian leather or something, OK right dude... for an old 68' pick-up truck bench seat cover!?! Well, after hearing the bad news about it possibly costing $500+ he could see that I was not amused one bit! He then told me about a drop ship company that sells reproduction parts named LMC Truck and that I could probably get a brand "new" OEM bench seat with the OEM cover for probably less than $500 plus shipping. I was thinking, what would shipping be on an item that weighs over 70 lbs... I bet that wouldn't be cheap! So, I said, "I'll keep that in mind as a last resort and yeah that might be a good solution if nothing else." I also said, "I was really looking for some supplies to get working on that old seat today!" He stood there with a blank stare... then I asked him if he had any old springs "lying" around like the one that I brought with me. He told me I could look around in his old upholstery parts salvage room and that if I found anything I was interested in to make him an offer, well I found a box in the corner with some old couch springs that were very close to the same length, shape, wire gauge and tension as the original seat springs were, SCORE! I brought the box up to the counter and told him I would pay $20, at first he gave me a look like I low-balled him... I told him there were only like eight springs in the box, but it looked like more! You could just tell the gears were turning in his head, after a minute he agreed on $20, he sold me the box and threw in some metal clips for attaching them to wood framework or whatever. The following week I found out about a DIY automotive upholstery shop located in Denver and I was told it was a good place to get some more upholstery supplies. Now, these guys were very cool and super helpful, they even gave me some pointers on repairing the framework and sewing the cover! They took the time to help me pick out the black "velvet" micro-fiber cloth material and even found me some remnant strips of black vinyl they had "lying" around in the back-shop to use for the side bordering around the base of the seat. These guys really helped me figure out what all else I was going to need to finish this project!!! I bought two different types of foam padding, two pads of 2" thick high-density foam good for keeping form and two pads of 1" thick softer low-density foam for a little comfort, a can of foam adhesive cement, box of hog-rings, some spring-steel wire, heavy nylon upholstery thread and some upholstery sewing machine needles that fit my Dad's sewing machine as well as some smaller furniture springs for the sides. All in all, I think I spent close to $360 at this shop, but, I got all the supplies I was going to need to finish the project. Wow, what an undertaking it really was though! I spent three days total on the metalworking part welding/building/repairing the original broken seat, the top edge and new inner metal framework. I had to make new spring sections using a mixture of spring-steel wire, those old couch springs, hog-rings, metal spring clips and some good old fashioned bailing-wire. I replaced all the spring sections along the edges, added more lateral support bracing than it originally had with bailing-wire and some small extension coil springs I had around the garage. I Used those small furniture springs to support the "egress" sides of the bench on both the driver and passenger sides to help keep the edges of the seat from getting beat-down again. The next part took another two full days to finish the foam pads, sew the cover, properly "fit" or "stretch" and secure the finished seat cover into place. It took nearly one day just to glue the "softer" foam pads onto the "harder" foam bench seat pads, then after the glue was "cured" taking about three hours just to be sure, I cut/shaped/formed the glued pads to fit the bench top and backrest. Finally, I took that black "velvet" micro-fiber automotive upholstery and together with the black vinyl strips made two separate nice very "breathable" seat covers for the bench and backrest sections! The final installation, getting the vinyl bottom boarder to "lay" around the bottom part of the framework just right proved to be a bit tricky, especially when getting the whole assembled cover to "stretch" in place while not tearing or puncturing the cover by pulling the nylon stitches through the vinyl! This was really the hardest most scary part about "installing" the cover, because you don't want any "saggy" looking panels after the fabric has "worn-in" for a bit or weathered a little and has been stretched! So basically, for less than $400 I purchased all the stuff I was going to need, minus a few things like; some 1" x 1" x 1/8" sq. steel tubing I already had at home; my Dad's MIG welder and his powerful sewing machine; 4 1/2" angle grinder; various hand tools; a few other miscellaneous supplies and a whole lot of elbow grease! Who needs grip strength exercises, just bend some spring-steel for a few days... I remember my hands were sore for days after this project was completed! In conclusion, it was defiantly well worth all the hard work and struggles! In my opinion, the refurbished seat was going to be way better than new, in fact, it even ended up being a lot stronger, more durable and plusher than you would ever get from LMC Truck, yet, for a lot less money too! What a huge difference it has made from before, and now after, it feels like you're cruising in a Cadillac! NO more sticky, sweaty, hot vinyl seat covers and NO more nasty backaches from cruising!
![Rough & Rowdy! This 800HP Big Block Manual Chevy C10 is a MONSTER! [4K]](/img/n.gif)
I just got a 1970 C-10 long bed. Traded my Saturn l-300 straight across. Been trying to get a C10 for years. I'm so happy
I'm a Ford guy but I LOVE our C-10. My wife has a '68 and it is a superb truck.
12tyo yolk USB 68b
Robert Billups Jr
I have a 66’ &72’ will restore one day .....😞
She is beautiful. My Dad gave me the key to his 72 C10 Deluxe when I got my drivers license. It was ten years old and had become his farm truck. I eventually let her go for a new car because it was the 80s. I want another one, however I don't care if it's 67, 68, 69, 70 or 71. I look at it like this, a second generation C10 is a beautiful thing no matter the year.
@@JeckleH I had a 1972 Chevy C-10 in high school (graduated 74 for context). It was a long bed with a 350 V8, 4 bbl carb and automatic transmission. I loved that truck, and hauled our motorcycles around or go camping with it. When I moved from California to NJ in 78 that’s what I drove and had it quite awhile before I finally sold it. I kind of wish I still had it after having my 2013 Ford F-150 4X4 and all the problems that came with those twin turbos and quite frankly it seems like all the new vehicles have gotten more expensive, unreliable and overly complicated to work on unlike my C-10.
I have a 70 gmc longbed....with trailing arms..all new suspension..rides and drives like a dream!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
this color is blowing my mind! I've never seen anything like it until now
Also, the first gen c10s had coils in the rear. That did not debut in 1967 but more like 1960. You could also get a C20 or C30 long bed step side. Step sides weren't just short beds or half ton options.
I've always liked this generation Chevy pickup truck. My dad has a 1969 C10. :)
My father couldn't say enough good things about the 292. When I was a little boy he had two C30's, a late 60's and an early 70's, one was a dually.
His 58 Bellaire, and those two trucks were the only vehicles he regretted selling.
Since everything else was covered, I'll add in my little bit of info.
The '67-72 C10 were indeed rear coil suspension, but an HD optional rear leaf spring suspension was available. I don't have the factory order code in front of me since my '68 isn't at my house at the moment, but mine has the HD rear leaf suspension with 12 bolt rear axle. To add, it has came with the 327 V8 with 4 bbl Carter Quadrajet, as well as a TH400 transmission.
It was a special order out of California. Yes, I have most of the build sheet, it was stuffed inside the springs of the bench seat. I had managed to save it and tape it together.
I had picked it up in running and driveable condition for the meager price of $500.00 back in sept. of 2003. The owner was going to part it out, but I couldn't see letting the truck go out in parts, so I bought it.
Robert Emmons hey how's the mpg is it bad a 68 C10 long bed because I'm thinking of getting one but I want to daily drive it and take it on vacation for a trip long trip is it bad mpg or not really I really love this vintage trucks compare to the new ones I had a 97 F-350 XLT crew cab long bed diesel 7.3L power Stroke made 17 mpg max 18.5 no towing that's why so how will a 68 C10 will be mpg no hardcore stuff
@@AlejandroP1980s I use to get upwards of 18 mpg on factory drivetrain, but now I'm getting 10-13 mpg after the engine rebuild, edelbrock carb upgrade, and a rear axle swap.
Robert Emmons will the same be if it's frame on rebuild have 14 mpg max 15
Robert Emmons ok thanks a friend of mines sells me a 68 C10 restore paint good and new tires and battery inside and out restore perfectly working without any issues of stop in the middle of the road but I think I will get 14 mpg highest 15 what you think good or not good
@@AlejandroP1980s it seems that no matter what pickup it is anymore it seems that the fuel mileage are all roughly the same. If I swap out my cam, go back to my Q-Jet, and reinstall highway gearing I'll be able to get back at 15 or better, especially if I go with an OD transmission.
I just bought a 72 C20 Custom Camper. Just surface rust. It's a blast to drive with that fuel injected 350 in there.
Wow 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Nice I love this truck I'm glad I'm restoring my 68 and my 72 c20s!!!
That truck is mint, and the '67-'68 front end design was the best looking on this series.
Maindrian Pace that I agree with you I prefer this frontend on my 68 than my 72 cuz it’s more rounder
The rear coil springs were on the first generation - it was not new in '67. At first the pickup has torsion bar front suspension and switched to all coil in '63 iirc. You could get a long box stepside into the eighties. They didn't have a K30 until '78.
It is rare to find a 68 Chevy C10 in such a fine, restored condition. It is a beautiful sight to see a restored 2nd generation C10. Whoever did this one knew what to do.
yep ive been looking for about 5 years , they are either rusted, thrashed, modified, too expensive, too far away, unregistrable,
there is little video info out there about keeping an old truck running
I got one in great condition for 15,000
My dad gave me his 73 c10 wich used to race at sanoma raceway and its rusted to the point were you can kick through it but these are good project trucks
You will have to commit to a trip to the Southwest. Last year there 4 on my block alone.
cars it’s a carbonated big block. Not hard to figure out with general automotive skills.
Good spark, keep the carbs clean and functional and in adjustment and it shouldn’t ever stop
Game Face 15k for a truck that old is too expensive.
Even though I'm a square body GM guy, I do have a soft spot for the 2nd gen trucks. Dad had one on the farm when I was a kid. This video mentions the "truck arm" coil spring rear suspension. I'd like to point out that this design was only used on the light duty C-10s. If you're looking at a "heavy half" or a C-20 or 30, they used leaf springs out back as did ALL of the K models. Dads truck did have the coil spring rear suspension along with a 327 and powerglide trans.
My 2- wheel drive 80’ Blazer has leaf springs.
Square Body 👍🏻👍🏻 hope one day to get it going $$$
Trailing arm, not truck arm.
My 69 step was bare bones on options! Still, it gets me to work 99.5% of the time!
they also forgot to mention longhorn beds and these trucks could be order as a c series 4wd to get different options for the owner. I actually own a 1969 Chevy c/20 4 wheel drive
Kyle Harris wow that's cool!
The GMC WERE NICE TOO 👍🏻
The long wheelebase was also available in the stepside configuration. There were also the fleetside Long Horn beds that were longer than 8 feet.
I've several of these trucks. I had a 68 custom long bed GMC which had leaf springs and factory AC. I have a 67 C10 now and the only option on it was a wooden bed floor. In 67 you could order it with factory AC and factory big back glass in the cab. I've only seen a very few with the big back glass. Im still in search of a 67 big back glass can with AC.
Pretty much sums it up, but also remember these trucks came with wood beds, so if your looking for a really elegant truck shoot for the wood beds they look and feel so much more than the steel. And if your looking to restore, think about 15-20k and that's not including the price of truck to purchase (project). Out here in AZ we have a whole bunch, try southwest, no snow and dry weather better for steel.
my grandfather had one when I was a young tot. It had a straight 6 with 3 on the tree
oooh that's what I got. Doing a ring job right now. Did you learn to drive manual in it?
This past summer I restored my 3 on the three
Here's a question that gets alot of people: when is the last time lifters were pulled for a clean & inspect? There's this myth out there that hydraulic lifters need no maintenance, but... that's upside down - they need to be totally disassembled one at a time [to stay straight on what cam lobe each came off of]. They need periodic cleaning [50k miles give or take depending on oil quality and general maintenance] to get rid of sludge etc that may build up/gets trapped over time and causes plungers to misbehave or check balls to leak by. Me? I disassemble new ones before install just to make sure all parts are in good order and on occasion have found metal flakes from manufacturing that ought not be there Personally, solid lifters are less trouble - if you have screw in studs installed, use lash caps and are mindful of cylinder head temp when adjusting lash - most old school mechanics never logged temps at time of adjustment, which is one reason why people chase valve lash more often than is needed.
I bought a used 1970 c10 on Labor Day weekend 1985 , it had 70 some thousand miles on it , I don’t drive it anymore just start it & let it run once in awhile , I plan to restore but probably won’t be until I retire , at least 2 more years maybe longer
Kermit, we meet again
So glad I watched this I've now got a better understanding of these trucks and am very exited to own one myself asap !
I have the exact same truck I cannot wait to fix it up it’s backfiring and now it’s not starting at all I wish i was a better mechanic but I’m learning
Sounds like the Timing is off ????
I'm late to the show, but wanted to call out Hagerty's narrator. Hagerty is my company of choice for a couple vehicles. It seems, however, their narrators are not well versed as they should be. CST did not necessitate bucket seats and center "buddy" seat, but it was the only way to get them. Trim was the most obvious difference for the CST. THE CST was the highest trim level, from 1967 through 1970.
I think you're spot on!
Absolutely beautiful truck IF you can find one that’s not rotten out.
These days you can get all the replacement metal though
What in amazing and well edited video. Thank you
I’m moving into the city I live near. Getting rid of my ‘19 Honda to get one if I can find one. No need for a little gas sipper 😎
I bought a 69’ C20 in the same color planning on buying a donor swb frame and swap every bring over
When I lived in CA about 20 years ago, guy had a 70 or 71 c10 short bed with rear leafs. I had to do triple take. The story goes the forestry and other CA state agencies who needed c 10's got them with rear leafs like a 2wd k-10. The c20's I have seen more commonly both ways and the c30 all had leafs.
A guy wouldn't mind finding himself one of those forestry trucks. That's a cool story.
C-10 didn’t introduce until 63. 60-62 was still Apache.
Coil springs were on the 64-66s also.
And I’m almost certain this one has the wrong steering wheel. That should have a three post color matched steering wheel.
I really prefer the 70 c 10 the grill looks really nice
I would have to agree with you on that
Yup! How to check my C-10. But never gonna be for sale! Easy and parts are available
Can't wait til mine's in that shape again...I'm ready to drive it...
On the cst10 the bucket seats and center console were optional not standard.
These old Chevy trucks are cool as hell, but I always liked the GMC trucks just a little more because they have 4 headlights instead of 2. I dont know why I like that better, I just think that looks way cooler.
avega2792 hey what is the mpg on a 68 C10 restore frame and inside and outside fully redesign are they gas guzzler
Parts are usually available, but sometimes your on your own. If in road ready condition, prices start at 5-6 grand.
Bucket seats on the 67-68 Chevy Trucks were the same on some of the Chrysler Trucks of that era.
Also 69’ had bucket seats !!!
Beautiful truck!
1968 was the first year of federally mandated side marker lights, which this truck has. It is a cleaner look without the side markers, which is why I prefer the 1967 model. What I like even better is series-1 C10s, 1960 - 1966.
Steve Rose The 68 Chevy Pickup’s side marker/reflectors did not illuminate. Pickups were not required to have side markers until 1970.
Yes, but you're only half right. The '68 did come with side reflectors, but they did not wire them to light up until '69.
Truly great trucks...
Great video, your info was correct as far as I could tell from my personal memories of those trucks. Thanks again!
Great looking truck by all means but the knob missing in the radio has my ocd going nuts
Wasent leaf springs a factory option on this truck?
I have a 74 c10 but I always loved these older 67-72 trucks...I want one really bad. its gotta be a 68 or 69 long bed 2wd with a 327 and 3 speed manual
Ironically, I have a 68 long bed, currently with a straight 6 and 3 on the tree. I had the 6 rebuilt years ago but would really like a 327 which I have one located. Most guys want me to put in a 700r4 tranny but I want to keep the manual.Can't beat the sound of a Chevy small block, winding out 2nd gear!
What about the Cheyenne trim?
My 72’ is a Cheyenne same A/C
Any pointers on how to identify numbers on 69 through 72 c10
I am in the market just to be on the safe side I understand tag on the door driver side Glove compartment last but not least left side Front frame Bye the Strong will, Chef thank you
Beautiful truck. The 68 on the video had the marker lights working. Truth is the 68-69 had the reflector and light combo but the light was not hooked up until the 70 models came out. The 68 you showed had the lights working. Cool but not original.
I’d really like to see a hagerty buyers guide on the 3rd gen Chevy vans.
Agreed
I drove a 69 with front drum brakes, lap belts, no tach, A/C, no tilt steering and turbo hydromatic.
These are awesome !
I've found one in my country for around 12k $ is it good price?
This is indeed a '68, because of the side markers. I was surprised to see a '72 steering wheel. The correct steering wheel for this one would have been the interior color and a circular horn cover.
+Rick Moderie
I was also surprised to see the foot actuated emergency brake. I am sure it should be the hand brake in a 1968 C-10.
I have a 68 and the emergency brake & wheel are different I think someone put this Frontend on this truck cuz it’s the best looking front end if you ask me
@@Wildstar40 Wrong dash and gauges aswell. Not a 1968 cab
Great video. I’m glad that you drove it. How tall are you? You look cramped in that cabin. I like to drive with my are close to fully extended on the steering wheel.
Now I know for sure I need to look into a classic truck with bigger cabin
they did have a rare long bed step side and short beds we're only available for the c10 not c20/30
sebastian chavez I have one a 67
Yup
Fun fact there were no K30'S or K3500'S from 1967 to 1972 only 1/2 ton's and 3/4 ton's were offered in 4WD.
would this also apply to the first gen. trucks? I have recently come across some and am interested in buying one.
Mines a 66’ SWB. BIG BACK WINDOW , my first truck . Bought it back in 1985 - ?👍🏻
Can anyone help me figure out what my 1969 c20 custom camper is worth?
Details
-Breaklights dont work nor do reverse lights so I wired up a switch in the meantime.
-It was repainted a dark metallic green amateur at best.
-It has a rustic 1969 472 Cadillac engine that idles high but sounds mean as hell.
-The interior had the radio removed and replaced but thankfully left the dash uncut the aftermarket speakers cut into the sides by my feet tho.
-I took out the new radio and now there is a bunch of loose wires that need rerouting.
-Seat has a tear with a wire poking out and black paint stains on it the passenger side.
-It needs a new tailgate
-Dash plastic is cracked and worn and black paint on dash is scratched up.
-Crome was painted black and so were all Chevy badges amateur work.
- Bed is misaligned but frame is good with no rust.
- Interior and carpet were painted/dyed black.
- Transmission needs rebuilding and gears were dropped to the floor off the column and shifter is now an 8 ball.
- Bed is sold but has a few dents
- The speedometer doesn't work
- Exhaust was chopped and taken out the sides.
Note: I did none of the previous work except 2 things the owner ratted it out which I liked at the time when I was 16 but now I'm 19 and want an original rustic c10 stepside.
I paid 3k for him and most people really like the look of him and the people that dont said it grew on them over time.
Edit: (I call him Orc because of the paint and mostly everyone else does too.) He Has 18k miles and a clean title just not sure what the value is dont want to sell or anything just looking to see if I overpaid.
I can tell you basically how much: PRICELESS. Seriously, It sounds like my 72. I plan on keeping mine. I've put a lot of time and a ginormous amount of change into mine (Retired Military). From radiator support, fenders/inner fenders, doors, floor pans, complete bed and other miscellaneous stuff. When I got mine, It was a work in progress but I wouldn't sell it for a million dollars. Just how I am. It's a labor of love if you are into stuff like that. It took me about 3 years to make my mind up and a year to start collecting parts (Classic Industries, LMC).What ever you paid for the truck you will recoup in smiles when you complete your truck. Keep your head up Lil' Brother and stay away from fads and make that truck your own.
What about square body? their awesome. need a update
I have a 1980 Jimmy Gmc Blazer - waiting one day to finish 😞
Which camera did you use to record?
Hi I have a 1990 Chevy Cheyenne Mexicana do you know anything about this truck
This thing is perfect
I have the exact same truck except mine is a blue 2020 Colorado
Hi I wanted to know if you knew anything about it a truck I have
1990 Chevy Cheyenne Mexicana
Hello, I have same Chevrolet pick up as you in France, it is a C / 20 model 292! 6 on-line cylinders gasoline(essence) of 1970. He(it) starts very well under cold conditions, but very badly under heat! Met you problem? Thank you good day
There are long box stepsides too
I've got my eye on a beautiful black 65 c10 manual. It's got beautiful pin stripe accents on the hood and around the body. Asking about $12k. Also a white 84-86 c10. Asking about $10k. Both appear to be in really nice condition. Both are close to home so it's time to see it in person. Also my grandpa gave me his 79 c10 Cheyenne stepside. It's been pulled apart and sitting in the woods since 93. That's going to to be a serious project. I'm not mechanically inclined by any means. I want to build my grandpa's old truck but I am afraid it could be too far gone. I'm torn between building it or buying one. Help! I've got my eye on several trucks but those two I mentioned are the main ones. One day I will have one
You could get a long bed stepside too. I have one
Loved this. Im in Australia do they have right hand drive conversions? How practical would it be to import one over?
Joey
Joe Scerri I would think parts would be fucking ridiculous to find there
These trucks are only for gun loving Americans, not liberal Aussies.
First gen hade coils in the rear to!
made kind of cheaply compared to a similar year Ford. Look at that crack in the window frame at 3:25
Marvin but new Ford and Chevy sucks Ford tranny issue Chevy and GMC GM junk ram Fiat junk only left is tundra Toyota time and Nissan Titan
68's are the best to me, but hey, i'm biased..I had one and have hated myself everyday since I sold it.
Have a 69
C 10 Arizona Truck
No rust straight 6 Don't know what to sell for
BrewBlaster ohhh man. Sad
Really nice thanks
My 1972 c20 has a factory smallblock 400
There where a couple mishaps where ther was 4wd c10 where produced i have a 71 that is a factory 4wd c10
I found a 68' C10 long bed, seller is asking 6k for it. It seems too good to be true. Even though I want a 84' Chevy k10...I think I should pounce on this one.
Did you get the C10?
@@freemansgarage as bad as I wanted a the C10..it was a rust bucket. I ended finding a rust free 84 Dodge D150 318 5.2 V8. It's not the C10 but I finally have my Square body American muscle truck! I couldn't be happier!👍🦅🇺🇸🦅
@@johnnie2388 That's awesome congrats! Dodges are sweet.
@@freemansgarage Thank you my friend 👍
Great video very informative, nice truck great colour.
That tach is a *very* rare option... up here anyways. Anybody have a radio delete ? I'm buying if you are selling... bonus if it is harvest gold !
i dont even have my drivers license and im looking at this car
I want one so bad
I got one for sale.contact if interested
I bought a 69 long bed c10 for 800 bucks
Lucky ass
Brayan Macias great buy - how was the body ??
@@jimmysapien9961 really straight but the floor and a piller was rusted out
I just got a 67 given too me by a old guy I was working for on his ranch, no rust just patina
bought a 71 from a farmer w a rebuilt 350 -$500- [1989!] ran like a raped ape but had more rattles in it than any car/truck i've owned .
AWSOME
These trucks believe it or not was made by the tractor truck division gives the colors of blue white and red fmc gmc division
I luv my 71 C10
I want one in black
Do a 3rd gen k10
'' a drop ladder frame that lowered the cab height '' : modern engineers should take note of this ''innovation'' ... instead of trying any kind of lowering tail-gate, among other things .
what is the source of the music?
Your speaker
This was my first automobile...in 1996! Was black but man that thing had power a 350 engine I believe. Did not look this good at all
nice car
69 c-10 standard trim with a 350 and a turbo hydra magic, first wheels I ever drove. It brings back fond memories, couldn't see over the steering wheel, to be fair, I was only 10; driving out to the field at dawn, it was a simpler, better time, Bush was still in the white house, there was no Facebook, the police weren't on your ass the way they are now and yes, they are getting tougher on non minorities as well, Do you think a little kid could carry a hunting rifle today, they'd call him a school shooter when all he wanted was to bag a couple jack rabbits, nobody worried about gluten free, We didn't know what political correctness was, and people respected each other. Like I said, a better time, and I'm not even that old.
the c10 is my dream druck cant find eny thoe
Them trucks are cold in the winter and hot in the summer. I'm a 3rd gen c10 guy.
Actually, my 68' C-10 will roast your bag off in the winter it has excellent stock heating, in the summertime you'll roast your bag off, unless you're moving down the road and got those "wing-windows" open then its not too bad!
TL'DR
The following is a long story about my adventures in automotive upholstery repair and boy oh boy, I had no idea what I was in for...
The original bench seat in my old pick-up was severely beat-down on the side edges, the vinyl cover was torn, cracked and falling apart with broken springs poking through it as well. Literally, after one hour of cruising around in the summertime you would be sitting in a pool of sweat with a serious backache! I used to wad up old t-shirts, stuff them in the holes and cover it all up with a blanket just to barely tolerate it! Then one day I got fed up with doing this and decided it was finally time to refurbish the bench seat in my pick-up truck.
First off, I started by ripping the 40+ year old fragmented vinyl cover off, gutted the burlap and real cotton stuffed jute knit piece of garbage seat padding. So now what... I had a huge mess and didn't know exactly what to do or what I could use to even fix this old broken down bench seat? I went in the house to take a break for lunch while I looked on-line to find a local upholstery shop and I found a old furniture upholstery shop nearby. It was around 1:00PM and I was thinking the shop might be open on a Saturday until 3:00PM, so, I called the phone number and a guy actually answered! OK cool, a real human being to speak with, imagine that... I asked him how late he would be open today, he said until 5:00PM. SUCCESS!
So, I quickly hopped in the car and drove down to talk to this guy, now at first, he started giving me a bit of the usual I'm too busy type of blow-off or run-around and excuses! He told me that because it was an old classic, it might be hard to get parts to fix the seat and it would likely end up costing a minimum of $500 or even upwards of $1000 just to fix the framework and re-cover it if you could even "find" the parts to fix it, really, 500-1000 bucks? Yeah, I don't even know what the hell this guy was thinking... Italian leather or something, OK right dude... for an old 68' pick-up truck bench seat cover!?!
Well, after hearing the bad news about it possibly costing $500+ he could see that I was not amused one bit! He then told me about a drop ship company that sells reproduction parts named LMC Truck and that I could probably get a brand "new" OEM bench seat with the OEM cover for probably less than $500 plus shipping. I was thinking, what would shipping be on an item that weighs over 70 lbs... I bet that wouldn't be cheap! So, I said, "I'll keep that in mind as a last resort and yeah that might be a good solution if nothing else." I also said, "I was really looking for some supplies to get working on that old seat today!" He stood there with a blank stare... then I asked him if he had any old springs "lying" around like the one that I brought with me.
He told me I could look around in his old upholstery parts salvage room and that if I found anything I was interested in to make him an offer, well I found a box in the corner with some old couch springs that were very close to the same length, shape, wire gauge and tension as the original seat springs were, SCORE! I brought the box up to the counter and told him I would pay $20, at first he gave me a look like I low-balled him... I told him there were only like eight springs in the box, but it looked like more! You could just tell the gears were turning in his head, after a minute he agreed on $20, he sold me the box and threw in some metal clips for attaching them to wood framework or whatever.
The following week I found out about a DIY automotive upholstery shop located in Denver and I was told it was a good place to get some more upholstery supplies. Now, these guys were very cool and super helpful, they even gave me some pointers on repairing the framework and sewing the cover! They took the time to help me pick out the black "velvet" micro-fiber cloth material and even found me some remnant strips of black vinyl they had "lying" around in the back-shop to use for the side bordering around the base of the seat. These guys really helped me figure out what all else I was going to need to finish this project!!!
I bought two different types of foam padding, two pads of 2" thick high-density foam good for keeping form and two pads of 1" thick softer low-density foam for a little comfort, a can of foam adhesive cement, box of hog-rings, some spring-steel wire, heavy nylon upholstery thread and some upholstery sewing machine needles that fit my Dad's sewing machine as well as some smaller furniture springs for the sides. All in all, I think I spent close to $360 at this shop, but, I got all the supplies I was going to need to finish the project.
Wow, what an undertaking it really was though! I spent three days total on the metalworking part welding/building/repairing the original broken seat, the top edge and new inner metal framework. I had to make new spring sections using a mixture of spring-steel wire, those old couch springs, hog-rings, metal spring clips and some good old fashioned bailing-wire. I replaced all the spring sections along the edges, added more lateral support bracing than it originally had with bailing-wire and some small extension coil springs I had around the garage. I Used those small furniture springs to support the "egress" sides of the bench on both the driver and passenger sides to help keep the edges of the seat from getting beat-down again.
The next part took another two full days to finish the foam pads, sew the cover, properly "fit" or "stretch" and secure the finished seat cover into place. It took nearly one day just to glue the "softer" foam pads onto the "harder" foam bench seat pads, then after the glue was "cured" taking about three hours just to be sure, I cut/shaped/formed the glued pads to fit the bench top and backrest. Finally, I took that black "velvet" micro-fiber automotive upholstery and together with the black vinyl strips made two separate nice very "breathable" seat covers for the bench and backrest sections!
The final installation, getting the vinyl bottom boarder to "lay" around the bottom part of the framework just right proved to be a bit tricky, especially when getting the whole assembled cover to "stretch" in place while not tearing or puncturing the cover by pulling the nylon stitches through the vinyl! This was really the hardest most scary part about "installing" the cover, because you don't want any "saggy" looking panels after the fabric has "worn-in" for a bit or weathered a little and has been stretched!
So basically, for less than $400 I purchased all the stuff I was going to need, minus a few things like; some 1" x 1" x 1/8" sq. steel tubing I already had at home; my Dad's MIG welder and his powerful sewing machine; 4 1/2" angle grinder; various hand tools; a few other miscellaneous supplies and a whole lot of elbow grease! Who needs grip strength exercises, just bend some spring-steel for a few days... I remember my hands were sore for days after this project was completed!
In conclusion, it was defiantly well worth all the hard work and struggles! In my opinion, the refurbished seat was going to be way better than new, in fact, it even ended up being a lot stronger, more durable and plusher than you would ever get from LMC Truck, yet, for a lot less money too! What a huge difference it has made from before, and now after, it feels like you're cruising in a Cadillac! NO more sticky, sweaty, hot vinyl seat covers and NO more nasty backaches from cruising!
@@thankfuluscitizen2706 hey hows will a rebuild 327 v8 68 c10 long bed mpg be 14 mpg max
Current C10 buyers guide, buy them all before theyre gone.
Shoot some quick starting fluid and save the starter.
I came from CSR2
My grandpa has a friend who if everything works out I get a 70s Chevy for free
No leg room, I learned to hate my 72 on a long ride, I could not stretch out. The new 73 gen 3 cured it but not as pretty.