As many of these videos I've seen of guys starting these chinese diesel engines up, I've come to the conclusion that it's against the law to bolt them down to a piece of plywood to keep them from jumping all over the place.
And your steel plate becomes a sounding board that will drive you mad with the amplified knock of the engine... Diesel (and petrol) engines are rubber mounted in vehicles to reduce noise vibration and harshness (NVH). D'ya reckon those multi billion dollar NVH projects might be onto something??? @@dennisyoung4631
@@kcraig51 if your going to set up on a belt drive it's better if you set up your pulleys so that the Engine is running at about 2800 RPMs - At 2800 RPMs is were the engine runs most efficient and developed the best torque - also use to belt pulleys and Kevlar belts
@@able880 That's why I was going with pulleys. I knew diesels like lower RPM. I was going to shoot for 2500. I wasn't far off. LOL Thanks for the info!
@@kcraig51 all engines run far more efficient at lower RPMs - if you look at the largest engines I'm the world that are. designed to run every dey for decades - many run from 50 to 120 RPMs - since there is time to burn all the fuel - there able to generate close to 30 KWs per gallon of fuel oil - If you run that air cooled diesel at 3600 RPMs it will give you 3 KWs per gallon of. Fuel - but at 2800 RPMs it can generate up to 10 KWs per gallon of fuel - The larger the high speed engine the less efficent it will be - the engine is most efficient up.to 50% out put - at 120 volts to 13800 volts - it take 1 HP to generate 416 watts - a 1/2 HP is lost via belt transition - so at 2/3 loads or 2hp minis a 1/2 HP - a 120 generator will generate around 625 watts per at an efficientcy of 8:1 or 8 KWs per gallon of fuel - With 12 to 36 volts 1 HP generates 385 watts - if you want the engine to last. Long time stay at 50% load or 1.5 HP at 2800 RMS - never let it run out of fuel it will score the barrel and plunger in the fuel pump - Order an extra recoil and govoner assembly for spare parts - after hurricanes bin my area Moto oil is hard to come by - so have extra oil on hand - you can filter the oil through toilet paper - If you using synthetic fleet oil you can use the oil over and over as you filter it - I worked on generators offshore for decades - I've seen engines rebuilt every two yrs over 40 yrs - the oil is never changed-
These are cool, but they are sort of hobby engines meant for screwing around, alternate fuel experiments, minibikes, go karts, etc. Not heavy duty enough to rely on off-grid or anything.
I won't let my 168F over a certain RPM. It's lower pressure injection, so turning up the fuel system is a smokey mess. Let the injector tip get hot at power and oil haze drops off. These diesels are tight specifications and a godsend. Only the price is cheap.
@@dennisyoung4631 Like a Thorobred. I'm not certain of the high idle, but I think 1500 is plenty fast for a good chunk of their output. I'm looking for a 7 or 8 inch pulley.
I’ve had mine close to 4500 on my minibike. Still runs fine. I’m a little scared of turning it anymore until I find a billet flywheel solution, although there is no magnet on the flywheel to fling off. It wants to turn even higher rpms. I have a ported/polished head with 26lb valve springs ready to go.
I kinda want to get one of these just to fuck around with. Have an engine with no manifolds on it what-so-ever that runs. record the intake valve opening and closing in real time. Maybe see if 20 feet of intake and exhaust piping can move the noise far enough away to hear the internals clacking. That sorta stuff.
Same. I’m thinking do this kind of disassembly to learn how it ticks, clean it up (some said insides still would have shavings in some of these type cheap motors), take a *PILE* of pictures for modding/reverse engineering, put it back together and then just *have fun with it*.
@@tonytran4857 maybe you mean the yanmar(Japanese) single cylinder clones? This little Frankenstein is relatively new to the offerings, surface around 8years...so how does this last 30years ?? Right out doesn't and it does not need to as the price is low
How can you tell the difference or is it specified somewhere? I have a small yanmar L around 200cc displacement like this Chinese one but the yanmar is considerably heavier by at keast 20% and its a pain to start by hand and makes a lot of smoke until its warmed up
@@drevilatwork 1. Look at the piston @31:27. This is the typical piston head associated with a ricardo type swirl pre-combustion chamber (Those are not valve pockets. They are there to promote combustion). Direct injection engines have a bowl shaped cavity in the piston head 2. Look at the cylinder head @31:45 . The small oblong hole is the opening of the pre-combustion chamber. Direct injection engines have the tip of the injector sticking out into the combustion chamber
Sorry, no they don't spray onto the intake valve. There is a "pre-chamber" in the head. The injector sprays into this and the spray travels out into the main chamber...the cylinder. A lot of Indirect injection diesels also have glow plugs in this pre chamber to ignite the fuel which has the heaviest concentration there.. The flame front then travels out of the pre chamber to ignite the weaker spray inside the cylinder. The valves operate to let only air in...and only exhaust out. Owner of 1991 IDI Nissan 2.7TD...for the last 23 years. @@SpicyBloodBean
What/where/when/how??? What do you use this engine on? Where do you keep it? (In heated barn, under tarp in deep snow? When do you need to use it...during the day, at night, in winter, in summer? How many options do you have re starting it? can you fit electric starter? Can you fit Thermostart (12VDC electric flame heater in metal manifold?) Do you have access to a gasoline or electric blow gun...(to heat up the intake manifold air to make the diesel start easily) Do you keep the fuel level in the tank high..and use anti-gel agents over winter? Could you fit a battery drill powered extension starter in place of a recoil starter?
Did you get this one off amazon? If so, can you post the link? They are all roughly the same, but i am hunting down which one to get, and this variant seems close to what i want. Great video, thanks for posting!
The reason I'm here. I need a oil burner to spin s alternator to recharge batteries for a off-grid project!. And burn waste! oil bio-diesel , I'd even build a centerfugee filter system. To remove the finest material from the oil! I'd like to mostly use vegetable oil, made into bio diesel. The Engine should normally run 6-8 hours ,2-4 times a week if the sun isn't shining! And possibly 2-4 hours daily in the winter ! But I really want to build a boiler/Wood stove to power a steam engine. That. Also heats the house while running! Possibly all-night on be a low setting (10-12! Hours, with a 30-50 % output! Or possibly 2-4 at 100-110%. Using either a Tesla turbine or converted gas engine a 20 something HP v twin running 150-200 psi,bat 300-500°F be steam. A water cooled engine would work the best. Use the exhausted steam directed into the water jacket. To heat the engine. To prevent the steam from condensing to water to and harming the engine.. also the oil cooler can heat the house also; with heat excavator, pipe in to a bathroom or something, sorry to ramble!
I have that exact motor and the only wish I have is for a smoother near idle. I made a 20 to 1 inch adapter out of a 3/4 to 1 inch adapter. I hope to find a 7 inch generator pulley.
I’ve seen this one and a red one. What’s the difference? One (this one) claims 4 and the red 6 but I don’t know if that’s right since I’ve seen the yellow one sold as 6 hp too
Just ask the seller for "rated at 6hp at what rpm" so that will show it? Maybe it is just govenor and at the last moment the diesel pump setting with Niger injector nozzle?
I'm trying to justify why I do not need one, collect about 50 gallons of used veg oil to start with , get some methanol, and have a generator running for $1 a gallon , it should do about 2kw , maybe add a little Turbo and get 3kw from it, and 7-8 HP, if enough fuel can be added, but 4hp should run for a long while generating power , 1500 watts 24/7 adds up to a lot!
A 10hp one is really common and you could do the same thing. Probably get 6-8kw out of it or more. I have a small house and I think I could build a whole house back up with a 10hp built generator.
@@dirtfootracing8788 I've had excellent luck cutting carb and intake gaskets from Fel-Pro 3157. Head and exhaust gaskets can be cut from Fel-Pro 2498, though with much less ease. I collect and tinker with antique outboards, so have had to learn to cut my own gaskets.
@@dirtfootracing8788 - You definitely have to be a hobbyist to own these. Making gaskets, parts, etc. Chinese companies are stupid not selling parts or at least making it difficult to get parts. I don't get it. They could dominate everything if cheap, plentiful parts were available without robbing parts from other complete engines.
Given i might get one of these and/or a Laser Cutter (and/or could use my FDM 3D Printer for Dies/Cutting Jigs) i am *intrigued* about all this DIY Gasket stuff, so all of y’alls comments are duly noted.
you have a shop? what would it take to have a L095 Lovejoy coupler bored and broach cut to fit the 20mm shaft on that diesel engine? I already have another one made to fit a GM 10SI alternator
Hey! I just built a generator with this exact engine using an L075 20mm lovejoy that I found online, aligning the generator head and engine took a bit of work, I had to mount them on the same rigid frame, but it works!
@@2000freefuel i just used 3/16 keys for both from tractor supply. The one on the engine had a little play in it, but there was a grub nut on the lovejoy connector that holds it in place just fine. You have to make sure they're REALLY well aligned though, otherwise the connector gets really hot really fast and will start shredding the spider
Make a billet head for that thing. Along with sculpting the crank, taking off excessive weight. Mill billet rods and forged Pistons, a custom ground cam. A billet flywheel. It should be capable of serious power. Converted to "gas" however run nitro methanol! Bolt on a amr,500 blower for 5-7psi boost! It would be amazing s blower and water to air intercooler. It should be really capable of making power possibly 40-80 HP+ from a 3-6 HP engine! An spinning it 6-10 x higher RPM ! If the mechanical injection could be used adding another pump and injector to inject Nitro- Methane WITH 12- 14:1 COMPRESSION and possibly go to a turbo to increase the boost from 5-6,7,psi to 15-25 psi!!.. a engine this small reaching nearly 100 horses! Possibly experiment with offset piston pins and reduce rod length and maybe add pressurized oiling ! Be use a motorcycle oil pump to pressurize the rod bearing! And lubricate the rockers! And a spray nozzle lubing the piston pin! And cooling the piston! Possibly use a second stage pump, twin pickups to feed a large oil cooler use the oil to help cool the engine! The crank possibly loosing 30% of the excess weight. Upgrade the bolts to studs. All that power and it appears to be a 6/7 HP engine! Use a modified starter from a 9 litre Cummins diesel, and 36 volts of lithium ion battery to build a divorced starter for the engine! Maybe use a onboard starter from a Honda 4cyl with custom flywheel gear. Using a 9-10" ring gear pinned to a billet flywheel! Use 24 v on the starter if it will only barely spin the engine over! It should definitely hold up to the power anyway!
the completely flat inside surface of the diesel cylinder head is how they got the compression up from say 9.5:1...........to 14:1 Very simple how they did the injector pump.
Fit a squeeze bulb outboard motor in line to pressurise it... or one of those cheap "Facet" style inline click click 12VDC pumps to initially pressurize everything... just crack each joint in turn all the way to the injectors to pressure bleed the whole system....
Yes but you will have to have the right pulleys if it's for a 3600 rpm generator head - also the power curve is at 2700 RPMs - not 3100 RPMs - also a half HP is lost in the belt transmission so that gives you 2.5 HP at the generator head - So it will deliver about 1000 watts at 120 volts AC - it takes 1 HP to generate 416 watts - it will have a better fuel efficensy than a gas inverter generator
Hi If it is a direct clone of a honda licenced or not providing the material selection is good and the machining finish is good it should be as good as the original version
This has me intrigued. Add a sensor to the shaft, grab an ECU, and try and give it some EFI! (Also could *maybe* add that Open Source FreeValve type thing if i can adapt it to this. That and Drill/Dedicated Electric Start, Tubo and/or Supercharging…all sorts of possibilities!)
I know you can put a 4000 RPM governor spring in the pump that will let it rev higher. At that point the engine is probably more limited by how much air it can get in rather than fuel.
@@nathanmandeville3205 Probably not different spring sizes and forces are needed for each specific pump. I'm not sure where exactly to get them but I've seen people talking about doing it. Worst case scenario remove it's current spring and get a couple of springs made with the same dimensions but with more and less force and test the results. I'm sure you could probably find something online. It would be a fairly common pump used by multiple manufacturers in china and they can be recpetive to helping you find what you need. Remember though that more RPM out of these probably won't equate to more power as the torque curve falls off pretty steeply above 3.6K so if you can get the desired performance with gearing instead that might be the best option.
@@dirtfootracing8788 ehh yeah I guess that’s good enough 😂 thank you lol, does that thing shake a lot too? It seems like it wouldn’t be a good idea to “strap it” on my minibike
Not how much the pump can travel but how much fuel bypasses the plunger element. A slot is ground in the plunger and twisting the plunger bypasses or blocks off more or less fuel to then be pushed toward the injector allowing it to pop.
That's an interesting piston design. That looks like a bare minimum of passing with the psi of 240 at least. I think if they change to a dome type piston, they probably be making at most 15 hp with a little bit bigger injection pump and a pencil design injector. With this design engine, it's max rating is 20hp before heat warps the living crap out of it. Other than that, cool video.
How much extra power do you think it would make pulling a shim out of the fuel pump and then using the gas clone head gasket to raise compression a bit more?
Not a good idea at all - the higher the compression is only needed for starting the engine - if you increase the compression the engine load will increase and you will burn more fuel and decrease the out put HP - You might chance burning the connecting rod bearing or cracking a head or piston - a for taking shims out the fuel pump your advancing the timing so again the engine will work against an early ignition - that decreases HP ect
It's a diesel they literally run off compressing fuel, more compression more heat more power.. advancing fuel is filling the fuel bowl for a longer duration before reaching top dead center more fuel more compression more power. Realistic these motors smoke black stock so they could use a little more compression since they don't have the extra air of a turbo or anything
@@codytyler5915 the high compression is for cold starting and maintaining a high enough cylinder temp for complete fuel burn - If you work with or on some large stationary engines the older ones have a compression change over valve - once your up to 100% load and 900° f exhaust temp - Then you open the compression change over valves on each cylinder - that might bring each cylinder from 21;1 compression to 13:1 compression - The exhaust temp will drop to 750° & the fuel efficensy will rise 30% - also the HP will rise another 25 % once the compression is lowered to 13:1 with a exhaust temp of 750° - Note the cylinder pressure was not increased but decreased - it's done on all computer controlled valving and fuel injection via lift and duration on modern diesel engines and vapor reciprocating engines today - the engines start on high compression and as the load increases the cylinder pressure decreases - Study up on it and you will under stand this statement
@@sabbath7081 do you have one and if you did add a shim do you know how many 1000th thick it was also could you tell me were to order them - Making it run quieter by adding a shim makes a lot of since - that regressed the timing my guess is it might have decrease the fuel efficensy - Many of the air-cooled Diesel's sold here in the US have a lower compression than Diesel's in others country's - That way they can run up to 4000 RPMs with out damaging the connecting rod bearing running at a lower compression - Those engines at 23:1 compression run fine on Marine diesel with out building carbon in the head - Marine fuel is #6 diesel when it's hot or #4 when it's cold - #6 diesel is close to #0 bunker oil but has slightly less sulphur - I had worked the offshore oilfields for decades and we used marine diesel - it has a BTU content of 165000 BTUs per gallon or 8 pounds I guess - they sold us fuel by thermal units - With a 3600 rpm diesel, they generate about 4000 watts per gallon of fuel using #2 diesel - We figured if you could run #6 diesel in them you would get 5 KWs out of a gallon of #6 fuel - It takes 1 hp to generate 385 watts of low voltage DC or 416 watts of AC from around 90 volts to 22000 volts - With those 3 hp air-cooled engines @ 2700 RPMs that's at the highest torque/HP - When you set them up on a 120 volt AC generator the engine will start lugging or blowing smoke at about a 1000 watts of load - that's 2.5 HP of load to spin the generator head - .5 HP or a half HP is lost from transmitting the power via belts - With directly coupled generator heads to engines you don't loose that 1/2 HP - If you use it to drive a generator head it's better to use two v belt pulleys with two kelvar belts - Generators as each magnetic pole swing against the next pole sort of bucks the field or armetur rotor you can see the Ider on a car altenator vibrating or jumping as it puts tension on the belt next to the altenator - that's because all generators and altenator's buck - Because of the bucking it's better to use two belts instead of one belt - for altenator's as on cars - they sell 4 inch aluminum racing pulleys in that case if your using a large pulley on the altenator and engine you only need one v belt - ( If you use the average size car altenator) there rated at surge power - a 120amp altenator can handle 120 amps for a few seconds, that's 1800 watts - But it can only handle 450 watts continues that's 30 amps or so - after that they will burn the diodes out - I use my engine on truck altenator with a programable regulator - so it's limited to 500 watts - that's about 1.5 HP at 2000 RPMs or less I guess - the pulleys are set up so the altenator to turn 2500 RPMs - that's all that's needed for car and truck altenator's -. I live in the rural deep South hurricanes can and do knock power out for long periods - All AC generators burn an enormous amount of fuel - After a storm I just use a hybrid system - that's a truck altenator to charge a couple of deep cycle battery's - To run a window fan a freezer and dorm fridge, well water pump along with some lights and a ceiling fan - I'll burn a gallon of fuel a day - After midnight during the summer I can run the window fan on low ect - I'll run the generator while we're awake and shut it down for 8 to 10 hrs a day - I would have to run a 4000 watt generator if I wasn't hybrid - that's at least 10 gallons a day of fuel - After a month when Katrina hit I ran low on fuel - instead of making a 300 mile round trip to get fuel - I just got a drum of old gasoline and old motor oil from a friend that has a junk yard - I just mixed it 50/50 and put a hole in a bucket and filled it with rags and poured the oil/gas mix through it, I used it for fuel - { I loaned the gen set to a friend when my power came on - that fuel lasted him 8 months lol) - I used the rest of that gas/oil after Ida hit - It had cooled down and we didn't need the fans - I was only running the lights TV/radio fridge and water pump off the inverter - so I only needed to charge the battery's a few hours each day - My neighbors were burning 15 to 20 gallons of fuel day lol - If you use 100% synthetic oil you can just pour it through some toilet paper in a large funnel to filter it - you can reuse the oil - On platforms offshore we never change oil we only change the filters - I don't change oil on my truck it has 380000 miles on it but I use high end synthetic oil - when you add new oil as the engine uses oil -. Some of the oil is changed - The way I'm set up with that engine my efficensy has run at 10:1 to 15:1 - That's that's 10 to 15 KWs to one gallon of fuel consumption
I wonder if some could use a diesel head, machine a small chamber in the head, and seat the valves a bit deeper in the head, making a high compression race head for the predator/Honda! If it's possible , I think I'd rather do that than weld up a stock head!
The compression on these cheap simple engines is very high even by diesel standards. It's 22:1 they do this so they can get away with cheap fuel system components and start reasonably easily without glow plugs or a grid heater etc. I don't know how much of that is head design or piston crown. Modern diesels use 14:1 which converges with high comp petrol engines. In fact the rare factory diesel dirt bike based on a Kawasaki bike uses a modified Kawasaki engine with an indirect injection head with a glowplug to ignite the diesel. That diesel engine revs to like 7.2K Mixing and matching would be an interesting experiment but probably not the cheapest way to do things.
It's already 23:1 compression. It's built to run on high sulphur low grade fuel - or unrefined diesel crude - the higher compression generates a higher cylinder head tempreture required to burn low grade fuel - you can decrease the compression and it will add HP - but you can only burn low sulphur fuel as sold in the US if you decrease the compression -
@able880 not so much the Sulphur but the cetan number that counts and the standard diesel is already at the lower end of fuel quality. But with that compression and features it can probably work with gasoil or similar stuff
@@SpencerHHOthat was the same bike that was used by the army to be able to run on JP-8 or whatever, right? That thing was sick! Would love to get one used (or hack together some replica/homage to it).
@@able880so you’re meaning to tell me this thing is already pretty damn fuel agnostic? That + Mods (or full on reverse engineering + iteration on that) and things get *exciting* ! I gotta get me one of these!
He acknowledged that it was going to make some people uncomfortable to watch him slam on the crank end with a steel sledge. Is that wrong? Or not? I was always taught that this was a HUGE sign of poor mechanic skills. It's too easy to notch the bearings without some dampening between the hammer steel direct to the bearing balls/rollers and races. Notched bearing=early failure. Totally avoidable. Even a piece of hard oak between the sledge and that nut is usually sufficient to protect the bearings from shock. And how damn hard would it be to find an appropriate puller in a well stocked machine shop anyway? I pretty much couldn't watch from that point forward.
Also. He wedged a driver beneath the flywheel and hammered it. Instead of just rotating the flywheel 180° and tapping the nut again.....repeat and tap again...repeat until it pops off the taper...like a reasonable person would do.. ..he just walks off and grabs a bigger hammer to beat the s#it out of the poor thing.
Also. He wedged a driver beneath the flywheel and hammered it. Instead of just rotating the flywheel 180° and tapping the nut again.....repeat and tap again...repeat until it pops off the taper...like a reasonable person would do.. ..he just walks off and grabs a bigger hammer to beat the s#it out of the poor thing.
leave the injektion Pump like it is. Turning it higher only damages the engine and you get very little runtime out of it. I have an Hatz 1B40 Diesel engine in my mortorbike and it had an bent rod and a damaged housing. The bearings worked it self in the housing and destroyed it. It had problems with the cold start and injekted to much fuel. After 200 km the with this fault the engine was toatelt.
To break over the compression stroke it take a lot of force to compress the diesel into ignition think of it like a hammer and a punch the punch has little driving force but hit it with a hammer and it makes things move it's kinetic energy
As many of these videos I've seen of guys starting these chinese diesel engines up, I've come to the conclusion that it's against the law to bolt them down to a piece of plywood to keep them from jumping all over the place.
Agreed
I don’t think they really care….
When I get mine, it'll be bolted down to something that doesn't move.
1/4 inch steel plate, with casters and a frame to put the generator on???
And your steel plate becomes a sounding board that will drive you mad with the amplified knock of the engine...
Diesel (and petrol) engines are rubber mounted in vehicles to reduce noise vibration and harshness (NVH).
D'ya reckon those multi billion dollar NVH projects might be onto something???
@@dennisyoung4631
Hmmm...The castings and machine work looked a lot better than I expected!
Your right about that ...cheap air cleaners on all I have seen so far ....we have 3 different models
@@kcraig51 if your going to set up on a belt drive it's better if you set up your pulleys so that the Engine is running at about 2800 RPMs -
At 2800 RPMs is were the engine runs most efficient and developed the best torque - also use to belt pulleys and Kevlar belts
@@able880 That's why I was going with pulleys. I knew diesels like lower RPM. I was going to shoot for 2500. I wasn't far off. LOL Thanks for the info!
At 2500 they will build carbon up in the head - 2800 is preferred -
@@kcraig51 all engines run far more efficient at lower RPMs - if you look at the largest engines I'm the world that are. designed to run every dey for decades - many run from 50 to 120 RPMs - since there is time to burn all the fuel - there able to generate close to 30 KWs per gallon of fuel oil -
If you run that air cooled diesel at 3600 RPMs it will give you 3 KWs per gallon of. Fuel - but at 2800 RPMs it can generate up to 10 KWs per gallon of fuel -
The larger the high speed engine the less efficent it will be - the engine is most efficient up.to 50% out put - at 120 volts to 13800 volts - it take 1 HP to generate 416 watts - a 1/2 HP is lost via belt transition - so at 2/3 loads or 2hp minis a 1/2 HP - a 120 generator will generate around
625 watts per at an efficientcy of 8:1 or 8 KWs per gallon of fuel -
With 12 to 36 volts 1 HP generates 385 watts - if you want the engine to last. Long time stay at 50% load or 1.5 HP at 2800 RMS - never let it run out of fuel it will score the barrel and plunger in the fuel pump -
Order an extra recoil and govoner assembly for spare parts - after hurricanes bin my area Moto oil is hard to come by - so have extra oil on hand - you can filter the oil through toilet paper -
If you using synthetic fleet oil you can use the oil over and over as you filter it -
I worked on generators offshore for decades - I've seen engines rebuilt every two yrs over 40 yrs - the oil is never changed-
That engine was designed for continuous severe application.
That is really cool. I'm trying to justify why I need one. 😎
A feather 🪶 in your cap.
Diesel mini bike. Boom lmao
Apocolypse backup - there, you're sorted, thank me when the zombies turn up 😉
These are cool, but they are sort of hobby engines meant for screwing around, alternate fuel experiments, minibikes, go karts, etc. Not heavy duty enough to rely on off-grid or anything.
Lol same here
Stage 4 kits will be cool
Amazon has a clutch for these 20mm shaft engines.
Title of the offering or the shorter URL with juzst the first article /AEIOU..
hello do you know how much the valve clearance should be and is the exhaust valve at the valve lifter?
Well I think that the injection pump and nozzle look VERY standard, seen some other single cylinder diesels in different sizes and ratings.
I won't let my 168F over a certain RPM. It's lower pressure injection, so turning up the fuel system is a smokey mess. Let the injector tip get hot at power and oil haze drops off. These diesels are tight specifications and a godsend. Only the price is cheap.
How well do they run at lower speeds, say, 1500 rpm? (Generator, 3-400 watts)
@@dennisyoung4631 Like a Thorobred. I'm not certain of the high idle, but I think 1500 is plenty fast for a good chunk of their output. I'm looking for a 7 or 8 inch pulley.
I’ve had mine close to 4500 on my minibike. Still runs fine. I’m a little scared of turning it anymore until I find a billet flywheel solution, although there is no magnet on the flywheel to fling off. It wants to turn even higher rpms. I have a ported/polished head with 26lb valve springs ready to go.
@@noahdement9271 Don't kid yourself. You'll bust it.
31:19 is what I came to see. It looks like the cylinder is sleeved. Good design.
Much thicker head bolts than the gasoline engine, understandably.
This is what I've been looking for, thank you
GREAT INFO.I saved this video for reference!
I was yelling at my screen that you were pulling the wrong end of the fuel line off. I guess you didn't hear me.
Yeah I did the same too
Interestingly the injector squirts into the pre-combustion vortex comet type head
So its like an indirect injection diesel?
Did this type of diesel engine have a cast iron sleeve by any chance?
Looks to be solidly constructed enough - not a toy !
I kinda want to get one of these just to fuck around with. Have an engine with no manifolds on it what-so-ever that runs. record the intake valve opening and closing in real time. Maybe see if 20 feet of intake and exhaust piping can move the noise far enough away to hear the internals clacking. That sorta stuff.
Same. I’m thinking do this kind of disassembly to learn how it ticks, clean it up (some said insides still would have shavings in some of these type cheap motors), take a *PILE* of pictures for modding/reverse engineering, put it back together and then just *have fun with it*.
The man of many talents. Thanks for the good content!
I have always liked messing with engines ..real satisfying to hear them run #allenginesmatter
Asian people are really smart real good quality engine I own one of this engine and is last me 30 year with no problem
@@tonytran4857 maybe you mean the yanmar(Japanese) single cylinder clones?
This little Frankenstein is relatively new to the offerings, surface around 8years...so how does this last 30years ?? Right out doesn't and it does not need to as the price is low
@@kitecattestecke2303 yep 30 years my friend
No oil pump? for crankshaft lubrication either ? On good, REGARDS Ziggy Canada
Finnaly somebody torn into one!
Hows the quality of the castings?
Not bad ...kinda normal for the chinese engines
Great to c the strip how reliable does anyone know I’d like to use on a plate compactor
Do you know the taper of the flywheel? Would a 212 non hemi or a clone flywheel work?
#2 morse
I think it might be worth mentioning that that this is an indirect diesel injection engine unlike say a Yanmar L series or its clone
How can you tell the difference or is it specified somewhere? I have a small yanmar L around 200cc displacement like this Chinese one but the yanmar is considerably heavier by at keast 20% and its a pain to start by hand and makes a lot of smoke until its warmed up
@@drevilatwork
1. Look at the piston @31:27. This is the typical piston head associated with a ricardo type swirl pre-combustion chamber (Those are not valve pockets. They are there to promote combustion). Direct injection engines have a bowl shaped cavity in the piston head
2. Look at the cylinder head @31:45 . The small oblong hole is the opening of the pre-combustion chamber. Direct injection engines have the tip of the injector sticking out into the combustion chamber
@@SunilSundar looks to me that the injector sprays directly into the combustion chamber. IDI engines spray fuel behind the intake valve
Sorry, no they don't spray onto the intake valve.
There is a "pre-chamber" in the head.
The injector sprays into this and the spray travels out into the main chamber...the cylinder.
A lot of Indirect injection diesels also have glow plugs in this pre chamber to ignite the fuel which has the heaviest concentration there..
The flame front then travels out of the pre chamber to ignite the weaker spray inside the cylinder.
The valves operate to let only air in...and only exhaust out.
Owner of 1991 IDI Nissan 2.7TD...for the last 23 years.
@@SpicyBloodBean
What/where/when/how???
What do you use this engine on?
Where do you keep it? (In heated barn, under tarp in deep snow?
When do you need to use it...during the day, at night, in winter, in summer?
How many options do you have re starting it?
can you fit electric starter?
Can you fit Thermostart (12VDC electric flame heater in metal manifold?)
Do you have access to a gasoline or electric blow gun...(to heat up the intake manifold air to make the diesel start easily)
Do you keep the fuel level in the tank high..and use anti-gel agents over winter?
Could you fit a battery drill powered extension starter in place of a recoil starter?
Did you get this one off amazon? If so, can you post the link?
They are all roughly the same, but i am hunting down which one to get, and this variant seems close to what i want.
Great video, thanks for posting!
The reason I'm here. I need a oil burner to spin s alternator to recharge batteries for a off-grid project!. And burn waste! oil bio-diesel , I'd even build a centerfugee filter system. To remove the finest material from the oil! I'd like to mostly use vegetable oil, made into bio diesel. The Engine should normally run 6-8 hours ,2-4 times a week if the sun isn't shining! And possibly 2-4 hours daily in the winter ! But I really want to build a boiler/Wood stove to power a steam engine. That. Also heats the house while running! Possibly all-night on be a low setting (10-12! Hours, with a 30-50 % output! Or possibly 2-4 at 100-110%. Using either a Tesla turbine or converted gas engine a 20 something HP v twin running 150-200 psi,bat 300-500°F be steam. A water cooled engine would work the best. Use the exhausted steam directed into the water jacket. To heat the engine. To prevent the steam from condensing to water to and harming the engine.. also the oil cooler can heat the house also; with heat excavator, pipe in to a bathroom or something, sorry to ramble!
Looks like good quality engines.
the air filters are kinda flimsy
For $200+ that's a fantastic engine -
One can easily make a new air filter setup, it seems.
Thanks, enjoyed that.
I have that exact motor and the only wish I have is for a smoother near idle. I made a 20 to 1 inch adapter out of a 3/4 to 1 inch adapter. I hope to find a 7 inch generator pulley.
I’ve seen this one and a red one. What’s the difference? One (this one) claims 4 and the red 6 but I don’t know if that’s right since I’ve seen the yellow one sold as 6 hp too
Just ask the seller for "rated at 6hp at what rpm" so that will show it?
Maybe it is just govenor and at the last moment the diesel pump setting with Niger injector nozzle?
What’s the part number on that recoil spring? Or where did you get it? Having the same issues with my original one
I contacted the seller and they replaced the dented one - sent from chyna
I put one of those on my Occ schwinn chopper bike and having it running on pure waste engine oil.
For the flywheel I simply hold the fly wheel with the entire engine up like 2 cm and smack it with a hamer
I'm trying to justify why I do not need one, collect about 50 gallons of used veg oil to start with , get some methanol, and have a generator running for $1 a gallon , it should do about 2kw , maybe add a little Turbo and get 3kw from it, and 7-8 HP, if enough fuel can be added, but 4hp should run for a long while generating power , 1500 watts 24/7 adds up to a lot!
A 10hp one is really common and you could do the same thing. Probably get 6-8kw out of it or more. I have a small house and I think I could build a whole house back up with a 10hp built generator.
Where can you get parts for these?
I'm impressed they used a needle bearing on the output side of the crank.
3Hp Diesel (motor). Why plugin your can to charge the battery. THE one I got had loose bolts/nuts I sent it back. the red one runs fine
If you have issues finding replacement gaskets, I've used Permatex Form-A-Gasket with good success.
I got lucky with this teardown none of the gaskets broke...I haven't found a source in country yet
@@dirtfootracing8788 I've had excellent luck cutting carb and intake gaskets from Fel-Pro 3157. Head and exhaust gaskets can be cut from Fel-Pro 2498, though with much less ease. I collect and tinker with antique outboards, so have had to learn to cut my own gaskets.
@@dirtfootracing8788 - You definitely have to be a hobbyist to own these. Making gaskets, parts, etc. Chinese companies are stupid not selling parts or at least making it difficult to get parts. I don't get it. They could dominate everything if cheap, plentiful parts were available without robbing parts from other complete engines.
Peanut Butter (creamy) works, but the next mechanic will say bad things about you!
Given i might get one of these and/or a Laser Cutter (and/or could use my FDM 3D Printer for Dies/Cutting Jigs) i am *intrigued* about all this DIY Gasket stuff, so all of y’alls comments are duly noted.
Does this engine have an iron sleave for the cylinder?
Yes
I would have used a puller on the flywheel. Even if I had to make one.
why do that? The ol' prybar-and-a-mallet trick is much faster and doesn't damage any parts.
Please make a video of you doing that so we can see how you do it.
Or at least even opposing pressure
Walter. What editing software are you using?
I Movie for now...I really need to step up my game
@@dirtfootracing8788 There is a cool ad on for FCPX that helps with sound
@dirtfootracing8788 How much would you want to mod another one of those 196cc Diesels for a 3/4 inch output shaft?
you have a shop? what would it take to have a L095 Lovejoy coupler bored and broach cut to fit the 20mm shaft on that diesel engine? I already have another one made to fit a GM 10SI alternator
Hey! I just built a generator with this exact engine using an L075 20mm lovejoy that I found online, aligning the generator head and engine took a bit of work, I had to mount them on the same rigid frame, but it works!
@@albertdantzer1347 what did you use to correctly match the keyways?
@@2000freefuel i just used 3/16 keys for both from tractor supply. The one on the engine had a little play in it, but there was a grub nut on the lovejoy connector that holds it in place just fine. You have to make sure they're REALLY well aligned though, otherwise the connector gets really hot really fast and will start shredding the spider
Make a billet head for that thing. Along with sculpting the crank, taking off excessive weight. Mill billet rods and forged Pistons, a custom ground cam. A billet flywheel. It should be capable of serious power. Converted to "gas" however run nitro methanol! Bolt on a amr,500 blower for 5-7psi boost! It would be amazing s blower and water to air intercooler. It should be really capable of making power possibly 40-80 HP+ from a 3-6 HP engine! An spinning it 6-10 x higher RPM ! If the mechanical injection could be used adding another pump and injector to inject Nitro- Methane WITH 12- 14:1 COMPRESSION and possibly go to a turbo to increase the boost from 5-6,7,psi to 15-25 psi!!.. a engine this small reaching nearly 100 horses! Possibly experiment with offset piston pins and reduce rod length and maybe add pressurized oiling ! Be use a motorcycle oil pump to pressurize the rod bearing! And lubricate the rockers! And a spray nozzle lubing the piston pin! And cooling the piston! Possibly use a second stage pump, twin pickups to feed a large oil cooler use the oil to help cool the engine! The crank possibly loosing 30% of the excess weight. Upgrade the bolts to studs. All that power and it appears to be a 6/7 HP engine! Use a modified starter from a 9 litre Cummins diesel, and 36 volts of lithium ion battery to build a divorced starter for the engine! Maybe use a onboard starter from a Honda 4cyl with custom flywheel gear. Using a 9-10" ring gear pinned to a billet flywheel! Use 24 v on the starter if it will only barely spin the engine over! It should definitely hold up to the power anyway!
Damn James your serious about this....it be a $20000 build ...I like it!
Your brain must turn 8900 rpm 24/7 , close to Smokey's 9000
All that work, put it back together! And it knocks like Krazy!!😆
Where did you find the replacement recoil?
The seller had it sent from china
do you think you could convert this to water cooled?
That would be a tough build
how are the valves lubed?
its just splash lubed like a clone
Can that governor gear be removed while still being able to throttle
How many horses do these put out?
I believe this one is rated at 4hp at 3000 rpms - lots of torque though
Does it have a glow plug?
No glow plug
Background noise not loud enough. I could decipher some ot the narrative.
Are the head bolts reverse thread
No
How many horses came out when you open it ?
Many !!!
the completely flat inside surface of the diesel cylinder head is how they got the compression up from say 9.5:1...........to 14:1 Very simple how they did the injector pump.
Actually 22 to 23 to 1...
U could try pressurizing the fuel tank to push fuel into the pump
Fit a squeeze bulb outboard motor in line to pressurise it...
or one of those cheap "Facet" style inline click click 12VDC pumps to initially pressurize everything...
just crack each joint in turn all the way to the injectors to pressure bleed the whole system....
Would this engine make a good generator?
Yes but you will have to have the right pulleys if it's for a 3600 rpm generator head - also the power curve is at 2700 RPMs - not 3100 RPMs - also a half HP is lost in the belt transmission so that gives you 2.5 HP at the generator head -
So it will deliver about 1000 watts at 120 volts AC - it takes 1 HP to generate 416 watts - it will have a better fuel efficensy than a gas inverter generator
MAn looks pretty solid to me except that’s it’s not turbo yet
a blower is a better choice ...stay tuned
Hi
If it is a direct clone of a honda licenced or not providing the material selection is good and the machining finish is good it should be as good as the original version
No not a direct copy
@@dirtfootracing8788 @dirtfootracing8788 How much would you want to mod another one of those 196cc Diesels for a 3/4 inch output shaft?
i think this is Fuwang 4hp diesel engine model 168F
yes it is
6:35 Like a hemostat lol. I hear lots of beeping, *is the engine gonna make it doc?!?*
The piston is what I wanted to see
I will most likely be redoing that video here soon
Did you ever figure out how to mod the pump or bypass governer?
You shouldn't bypass the governor in a diesel engine, but gasoline engine can handle the extra rpm so if you want rpm get a gas engine
This has me intrigued. Add a sensor to the shaft, grab an ECU, and try and give it some EFI!
(Also could *maybe* add that Open Source FreeValve type thing if i can adapt it to this.
That and Drill/Dedicated Electric Start, Tubo and/or Supercharging…all sorts of possibilities!)
Any possible way to get a little more rpm and fuel out of these for a go kart or mini bike application?
I know you can put a 4000 RPM governor spring in the pump that will let it rev higher. At that point the engine is probably more limited by how much air it can get in rather than fuel.
Where would I get one and how do you install it? I’m in the process of mocking up an amr300 supercharger to one
@@SpencerHHOwould like a 4000 rpm governor spring out of a p pump Cummins work?
@@nathanmandeville3205 Probably not different spring sizes and forces are needed for each specific pump. I'm not sure where exactly to get them but I've seen people talking about doing it.
Worst case scenario remove it's current spring and get a couple of springs made with the same dimensions but with more and less force and test the results.
I'm sure you could probably find something online. It would be a fairly common pump used by multiple manufacturers in china and they can be recpetive to helping you find what you need.
Remember though that more RPM out of these probably won't equate to more power as the torque curve falls off pretty steeply above 3.6K so if you can get the desired performance with gearing instead that might be the best option.
@@SpencerHHOI’m wondering if maybe valve springs off a little predator engine might work, I’ll have to take the pump back out and apart and check
What is a good Diesel engine manufacturer in that size?
Kohler but it will cost you 2k
How easy is it to find replacement parts for this engine?
Parts are available from china ....nothing quick though
@@dirtfootracing8788 ehh yeah I guess that’s good enough 😂 thank you lol, does that thing shake a lot too? It seems like it wouldn’t be a good idea to “strap it” on my minibike
@@brucegriffin1404 We put one on a Coleman frame. With the low rpm you have to get your clutch/cvt working sooner/lower rpm.
Entire rebuild kit for around $250
Not how much the pump can travel but how much fuel bypasses the plunger element. A slot is ground in the plunger and twisting the plunger bypasses or blocks off more or less fuel to then be pushed toward the injector allowing it to pop.
That's an interesting piston design. That looks like a bare minimum of passing with the psi of 240 at least. I think if they change to a dome type piston, they probably be making at most 15 hp with a little bit bigger injection pump and a pencil design injector.
With this design engine, it's max rating is 20hp before heat warps the living crap out of it. Other than that, cool video.
Will the diesel ROD swap into a 196cc or 212cc Gas clone? (Predator)??
they are different
@@dirtfootracing8788 Cool, thanks
This is my first time see crank shaft with no roller bearing and no oil pump
Gasket sets end play on crank
How many compression rings ??
3 compression rings and one oil ring.
@@davem6492 ty
Good
I rike video.....lol. Shims on bottom of pump to case control timing of fuel, simple design.
it is simple
I believe the cam controls the general timing and shims control level of squirt. Increased throttle should start a bigger squirt earlier.
When I try to start my 186 FA diesel engine it tries to run backwards
Shim the pump to retard the timing a bit. Work in 0.25mm increments.
How much extra power do you think it would make pulling a shim out of the fuel pump and then using the gas clone head gasket to raise compression a bit more?
Not a good idea at all - the higher the compression is only needed for starting the engine - if you increase the compression the engine load will increase and you will burn more fuel and decrease the out put HP -
You might chance burning the connecting rod bearing or cracking a head or piston - a for taking shims out the fuel pump your advancing the timing so again the engine will work against an early ignition - that decreases HP ect
It's a diesel they literally run off compressing fuel, more compression more heat more power.. advancing fuel is filling the fuel bowl for a longer duration before reaching top dead center more fuel more compression more power. Realistic these motors smoke black stock so they could use a little more compression since they don't have the extra air of a turbo or anything
@@codytyler5915 the high compression is for cold starting and maintaining a high enough cylinder temp for complete fuel burn -
If you work with or on some large stationary engines the older ones have a compression change over valve - once your up to 100% load and 900° f exhaust temp -
Then you open the compression change over valves on each cylinder - that might bring each cylinder from 21;1 compression to 13:1 compression -
The exhaust temp will drop to 750° & the fuel efficensy will rise 30% - also the HP will rise another 25 % once the compression is lowered to 13:1 with a exhaust temp of 750° -
Note the cylinder pressure was not increased but decreased - it's done on all computer controlled valving and fuel injection via lift and duration on modern diesel engines and vapor reciprocating engines today - the engines start on high compression and as the load increases the cylinder pressure decreases -
Study up on it and you will under stand this statement
Adding a shim makes it quieter and run better under lower rpm loads.
@@sabbath7081 do you have one and if you did add a shim do you know how many 1000th thick it was also could you tell me were to order them -
Making it run quieter by adding a shim makes a lot of since - that regressed the timing my guess is it might have decrease the fuel efficensy -
Many of the air-cooled Diesel's sold here in the US have a lower compression than Diesel's in others country's -
That way they can run up to 4000 RPMs with out damaging the connecting rod bearing running at a lower compression -
Those engines at 23:1 compression run fine on Marine diesel with out building carbon in the head -
Marine fuel is #6 diesel when it's hot or #4 when it's cold - #6 diesel is close to #0 bunker oil but has slightly less sulphur -
I had worked the offshore oilfields for decades and we used marine diesel - it has a BTU content of 165000 BTUs per gallon or 8 pounds I guess - they sold us fuel by thermal units -
With a 3600 rpm diesel, they generate about 4000 watts per gallon of fuel using #2 diesel -
We figured if you could run #6 diesel in them you would get 5 KWs out of a gallon of #6 fuel -
It takes 1 hp to generate 385 watts of low voltage DC or 416 watts of AC from around 90 volts to 22000 volts -
With those 3 hp air-cooled engines @ 2700 RPMs that's at the highest torque/HP -
When you set them up on a 120 volt AC generator the engine will start lugging or blowing smoke at about a 1000 watts of load - that's 2.5 HP of load to spin the generator head - .5 HP or a half HP is lost from transmitting the power via belts -
With directly coupled generator heads to engines you don't loose that 1/2 HP -
If you use it to drive a generator head it's better to use two v belt pulleys with two kelvar belts -
Generators as each magnetic pole swing against the next pole sort of bucks the field or armetur rotor you can see the Ider on a car altenator vibrating or jumping as it puts tension on the belt next to the altenator - that's because all generators and altenator's buck -
Because of the bucking it's better to use two belts instead of one belt - for altenator's as on cars - they sell 4 inch aluminum racing pulleys in that case if your using a large pulley on the altenator and engine you only need one v belt -
( If you use the average size car altenator) there rated at surge power - a 120amp altenator can handle 120 amps for a few seconds, that's 1800 watts -
But it can only handle 450 watts continues that's 30 amps or so - after that they will burn the diodes out -
I use my engine on truck altenator with a programable regulator - so it's limited to 500 watts - that's about 1.5 HP at 2000 RPMs or less I guess - the pulleys are set up so the altenator to turn 2500 RPMs - that's all that's needed for car and truck altenator's -.
I live in the rural deep South hurricanes can and do knock power out for long periods -
All AC generators burn an enormous amount of fuel -
After a storm I just use a hybrid system - that's a truck altenator to charge a couple of deep cycle battery's -
To run a window fan a freezer and dorm fridge, well water pump along with some lights and a ceiling fan - I'll burn a gallon of fuel a day -
After midnight during the summer I can run the window fan on low ect -
I'll run the generator while we're awake and shut it down for 8 to 10 hrs a day -
I would have to run a 4000 watt generator if I wasn't hybrid - that's at least 10 gallons a day of fuel -
After a month when Katrina hit I ran low on fuel - instead of making a 300 mile round trip to get fuel -
I just got a drum of old gasoline and old motor oil from a friend that has a junk yard -
I just mixed it 50/50 and put a hole in a bucket and filled it with rags and poured the oil/gas mix through it, I used it for fuel - { I loaned the gen set to a friend when my power came on - that fuel lasted him 8 months lol) - I used the rest of that gas/oil after Ida hit -
It had cooled down and we didn't need the fans - I was only running the lights TV/radio fridge and water pump off the inverter - so I only needed to charge the battery's a few hours each day -
My neighbors were burning 15 to 20 gallons of fuel day lol -
If you use 100% synthetic oil you can just pour it through some toilet paper in a large funnel to filter it - you can reuse the oil -
On platforms offshore we never change oil we only change the filters -
I don't change oil on my truck it has 380000 miles on it but I use high end synthetic oil - when you add new oil as the engine uses oil -. Some of the oil is changed -
The way I'm set up with that engine my efficensy has run at 10:1 to 15:1 -
That's that's 10 to 15 KWs to one gallon of fuel consumption
Great video, just couldn't here what you were saying.
I wonder if some could use a diesel head, machine a small chamber in the head, and seat the valves a bit deeper in the head, making a high compression race head for the predator/Honda! If it's possible , I think I'd rather do that than weld up a stock head!
The compression on these cheap simple engines is very high even by diesel standards. It's 22:1 they do this so they can get away with cheap fuel system components and start reasonably easily without glow plugs or a grid heater etc. I don't know how much of that is head design or piston crown. Modern diesels use 14:1 which converges with high comp petrol engines. In fact the rare factory diesel dirt bike based on a Kawasaki bike uses a modified Kawasaki engine with an indirect injection head with a glowplug to ignite the diesel. That diesel engine revs to like 7.2K
Mixing and matching would be an interesting experiment but probably not the cheapest way to do things.
It's already 23:1 compression. It's built to run on high sulphur low grade fuel - or unrefined diesel crude - the higher compression generates a higher cylinder head tempreture required to burn low grade fuel - you can decrease the compression and it will add HP - but you can only burn low sulphur fuel as sold in the US if you decrease the compression -
@able880 not so much the Sulphur but the cetan number that counts and the standard diesel is already at the lower end of fuel quality. But with that compression and features it can probably work with gasoil or similar stuff
@@SpencerHHOthat was the same bike that was used by the army to be able to run on JP-8 or whatever, right?
That thing was sick! Would love to get one used (or hack together some replica/homage to it).
@@able880so you’re meaning to tell me this thing is already pretty damn fuel agnostic? That + Mods (or full on reverse engineering + iteration on that) and things get *exciting* !
I gotta get me one of these!
I know that engine is probably working fine, but looking at that black exhaust makes me think that the combustion process is incomplete.
It's a diesel engine. Soot is completely normal.
Its a deisel engine... they create smoke when under labor or starting up at first
No oil pump at all.
How much do those engines cost
$250 - $275
Some people call things cheap to pretend they have money.
😆
YOU CAN GET PARTS FOR THAT JUNK?
yes but pricey
Can you get a new CAPS LOCK button instead of your current stuck one?
Sounds like a little 2 stroke Detroit 😂
Shut the engine off with the throttle, not the decompression lever.
Don't lose the timing.
You are not qualified to comment on diesel. Great disservice!
WOW
If you slow down a bit, you'll help us avoid some mistakes. That, and the background noise are my only negatives. All the rest is GOOD, GOOD, GOOD!
Thanks you very much good working
Sir please help me
Engine model number please recoste 🙏🙏🙏
168F
@@dirtfootracing8788
Thanks you Sir
He acknowledged that it was going to make some people uncomfortable to watch him slam on the crank end with a steel sledge. Is that wrong? Or not? I was always taught that this was a HUGE sign of poor mechanic skills. It's too easy to notch the bearings without some dampening between the hammer steel direct to the bearing balls/rollers and races. Notched bearing=early failure. Totally avoidable. Even a piece of hard oak between the sledge and that nut is usually sufficient to protect the bearings from shock. And how damn hard would it be to find an appropriate puller in a well stocked machine shop anyway?
I pretty much couldn't watch from that point forward.
Also. He wedged a driver beneath the flywheel and hammered it. Instead of just rotating the flywheel 180° and tapping the nut again.....repeat and tap again...repeat until it pops off the taper...like a reasonable person would do..
..he just walks off and grabs a bigger hammer to beat the s#it out of the poor thing.
Also. He wedged a driver beneath the flywheel and hammered it. Instead of just rotating the flywheel 180° and tapping the nut again.....repeat and tap again...repeat until it pops off the taper...like a reasonable person would do..
..he just walks off and grabs a bigger hammer to beat the s#it out of the poor thing.
Your so sensitive ....its not the space shuttle@@bjamesW32
Sir told me this tools model nomber name a to z size number
Weird that it doesn’t have a coil or glow plugs
Straight up compression is all it needs
Turbo charge it .
leave the injektion Pump like it is. Turning it higher only damages the engine and you get very little runtime out of it. I have an Hatz 1B40 Diesel engine in my mortorbike and it had an bent rod and a damaged housing. The bearings worked it self in the housing and destroyed it. It had problems with the cold start and injekted to much fuel. After 200 km the with this fault the engine was toatelt.
Why would you need the fly wheel.
To break over the compression stroke it take a lot of force to compress the diesel into ignition think of it like a hammer and a punch the punch has little driving force but hit it with a hammer and it makes things move it's kinetic energy
its metric ?
of course
It a lightweight piece of junk good for 200 hour of operation till the piston ring landings bust.
can't barely hear it.....from across the county
what was the point
Who else did a desktop drum roll, when he asked for it!!!🤣🤣🤣🤣
It's kinda same as a Chinese gas engine
They are very similar