Gettin in deep there bud😁 I’d spend a few more seconds honing cylinders but slow drill speed down and use lots of wd40 I normally have someone spray wide open at same time of honing Wire wheel the top of pistons and should be a part number for piston and maybe that will lead you towards the right rings? I assume you have already but make sure it’s not been bored out already it will be stamped on top of pistons also Std. = stock .20 .30 etc is overbores Good luck hopefully you don’t hate me 😁😂🤦♂️lol
Hahaha, hate you? How could I possibly hate you. It's the finest flower planter I've ever owned! 😂😂 definitely appreciate all the help and answering all the messages. 💪
We can probably all agree that C&C is your most reliable comment. I’ll agree that more honing in the cylinders wouldn’t hurt. Your roto-plunger 6k action is good and will get you a good cross hatch. Those rod bearings are probably a clue to that having been apart, and while they look good, I’d either check with a micrometer or plasti-gauge to see what the clearance is on them. This far in be good to know if the crank has been turned down, the bearings you have may be the wrong size if it has. Keep at it, you’re doing a fine job!
Hone the heck out of the cylinders. Your not going to take out to much material. You want the cylinders as clean as possible for the new rings. Remember that you will have to fit the rings to the cylinder before you put them on the pistons. Keep up the good work.
The backkhoe is yours and will never leave your property. If you put you invest your money and time the education you are creating is priceless. Thanks for taking us on the journey. I wish I had a chance .
I totally agree with your reasoning. You aren’t planning to use it for anything but your personal projects. You might end up putting a few thousand dollars in this and you couldn’t buy even a junker for that. Clint did you a huge favor. Love the channel
Cap’n I gotcha covered… my first engine rebuild was on a ‘63 Chevy small block V-8. It was done in the middle of August on 100degree days under a tree that shaded it only in the morning. I worked on it during the day and being only 18 yrs old… kinda rushed it. My dad helped me quite a bit when I tore it down, honed the cylinders, ground the valves, etc. But, when it came time to assemble the pistons, he was out of town. So, I called my mechanic buddy (who was also 18) for advice. He described how to install the rings, rod bearings… and loaned me a ring compressor. I carefully installed the rings, offset their gap, pushed them into the cylinder and commenced to install the rod bearings. That’s where it went off track. In those days, cattle feed came in 100lb and 50lb sacks. Because we had a dairy farm, I handled a lot of them. After I got the engine all buttoned up, oil in it and the starter installed… I hit the ignition switch…and, the starter strained and clicked then, strained and clicked some more…. finally it got so hot that it blew the fuse. That’s when I got out the big wrench and commenced to turning the crank a few times ‘to loosen it up’. So, I called my buddy up and asked him to come out and take a look. He started asking me questions about what steps I had gone through… then he asked me how tight I had torqued the piston rod bearings. I assured him that they were ‘plenty tight’. At which point… he mentioned a torque wrench. You know Cap’n I believe that was the first time I had ever heard of such a thing…. As it turned out, knowing the difference between the weight of a 100lb and a 50lb sack of cattle feed is not close enough for rod bearing bolts. They require a much more discriminating measure. The result? A couple of rod bearings seized on the crank shaft and scored the piston rod ends and caps. The remainder seized in the rod ends and galled the crank shaft. The cost of the overhaul doubled… just because a farm boys experience toting feed sacks doesn’t translate to a mechanics use of a torque wrench! Fortunately for you, there is no hot August sun to cause you to hurry… so you can take the time to read the manual. And, toting fire hoses might translate torque feel a lot better. I don’t know… but iffen you can get ahold of one of those fancy toque wrenches you won’t have to guess! PS: no ridge in the top of the cylinder walls. You have a lot of wear available in that block. It can’t have too many hours on it.
Mike, anytime you have an engine apart, always replace bearings..especially rod bearings. Before all the computerized crap, I loved building engines. Best of luck and have fun.
I have no doubt you'll get it running. Those engines aren't that complicated and you're not afraid to get dirty. Glad to see you got the head checked and did the valves. No sense doing it again next year.
'Stick' - sometimes they are the most useful tool - wonder what a used one would be worth! Admire your determination to have a go at 'fixing' the backhoe.
The 555 is a good machine , I agree with Clint , he's a pro .... I would spend a little more time on the cylinder hone . Make the walls smooth and clean out some of that surface imperfection and she will probably run long enough to pass down to your kids .
I think your best bet is listening to C&C, keep doing what your doing, your having fun and you will bring that thing back for it's second or third life. You'll get your money back, and best of all your learning. Keep on keepin on. Love to watch you go at it. Thanks, Captain !
Clean everything before you put it together so its all beautiful an clean well thats how i have done it but up to you and when you grind valves you twist lift twist lift twist hope it runs like a dream for you good luck
A 24hr soak in a 5 gal bucket of Evapo Rust goes along way Mike.👍👍👍👍And saves time. Google the engine stamp numbers to see what it is. ----->Keep in mind. When pulling out the connecter rods and pulling them back onto the crank put cut pieces of hose over the studs first. Cause the treads will nick the very soft crank journals. Making the bearings lock into the nicks after you torque down the nuts. Locking up the engine or they chew up your bearings.
Brings back memories (from the 60's) as a teenager working in my Dad's automotive repair shop. Thanks for all your effort in putting the video together.
Great series on rebuilding this tractor I'll be amazed how good the thing Runs you're doing an excellent job please do more rebuilds like this great stuff 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Mike, we love your sense of humor and your free advice. I am going to my auto parts store and signing up for their 'stick leasing program' to save money when I remove gunk form engines. Thanks for the money and time saving tip. Keep the great videos coming as you have time to edit and upload your adventures.
it would take a LOT more time pumping that Dingle-Ball hone up and down to re-size the bores! You need to run it back thru there a bunch more than you did to properly de-glaze and clean up those cylinders dude!
Agree with Clint hone the cylinder more transmission oil works wonders to clean the cylinder up. While it is apart and you can clean top of the block of the old head gasket. and not have to worry about getting in places you don't want it to. Also they have a nice gasket removing pad for this makes short works of it.
Mike, I was watching Chris @ Letsdig18 when he got Betty back, his comment was, it's his waste of time and money. In the same comment I also pointed that Mike at DP has his 120 and Jerry over at DC has Christina. Like you say your enjoying working on your Triple Nickel which you'll keep and don't forget your learning all the time, so it's a triple bonus. I'm just a little jealous, as I don't have the space for yours or any of the for mentioned pieces of kit. My joy is my wife's great uncles old workshop vice, which I have been rebuilding, it's all I have space for. Just to let you know my technical item of choice is a length of bamboo, I find that unlike the Auto Part Stick, its more flexible. 🤗
That’s how I learned. Started out in my dad and grandpa’s shop when I was 12. You are learning stuff that can’t be taught in a classroom and will last you the rest of your life. You have in my opinion 3 of the best people to go to for help, Clint, Kevin and Mike. Stay with it and hi from Texas
Nice work, Mike. I absolutely love your sense of humor - buy/lease a stick. I also appreciate your willingness to try new things and bring us along. By the way, the piston was coming out as you tapped it with your piece of wood.
Mike this adventure is refreshing and educational and very informative. The hoses and the unknown engine situation would scare a lot of green tractor buyers away. Get the engine block and head casting numbers it should tell you what engine it is. Almost like a mix of a gasoline and diesel piston components?
I'm guessing it's already been said. Keep it all as clean as possible(don't forget the oil pick up pipe) and lube any moving parts as you go when putting back together so on start up there is no metal on metal action. What a rewarding job though and from my end a pleasure to watch.👍
To add to C & C when someone removes there oil pan, change the oil pump and the scoop if the engine is old or high miles! You will make it a lot easier now then soon in the future!.. Good luck! Poppa Bear
A little trade secret , clean the cylinder walls with atf , using folded paper towels , the first couple swipes will come out black , clean new paper towels wipe again until clean , maybe clean one the best way you know how , then show the viewers , let's try the aft , and you will be impressed.
Really enjoying this Mike. One thing I remember from my mispent youth is when you install the pistons if you put a 4 or 5 inch piece of hose on the rod bolts it will protect the crank and help align the rod end.
Your first time is always the best. Never worked on heavy equipment engines, but I know that removing the block from a car makes pulling pistons a lot easier.
That is quite a job for a rookie. Keep asking questions and you will be fine. Remember to keep everything in the engine as clean as possible. I remember my first engine teardown and rebuild. The best way to learn something is to do it.
I have done essentially the same thing as you, tearing an engine apart and rebuilding it. Except my engine was the rear mounted engine in a Corvair. Like you I had a manual and went step by step. The engine was horizontally mounted and I never took it out of the car. This was in 1981-82 time frame. and it ran beautifully after all was done. I had never done that before, so I was quite pleased when it ran and I was finished. Drove that car from Abilene Tx. to South Carolina the following year.
Scoring on the pistons might be from overheating. So if it were me, I'd check over the water pump and clean the snot out of the rad. Love seeing you dig into unfamiliar waters! Keep at it!
I take my hat off to you Mike, you are not afraid to pull the 555 apart and find out how it works !!! When I left school I worked for a coachbuilders, did so well at that they put me vehicle electrics... I told them I didn't and still don't have the patience to work with any electrics, never mind fixing other people's mess..... 😬 I'm sure there are plenty of well qualified and experienced people out there to give you advice, all I can offer is a shed load of respect Sir ! 👍💪👏
In for a penny, in for pound! DIY is the huge cost saver. Even if the block had to come out, and you have to replace the hydraulic pump and all hoses. Once the 555 fires back up, you’ll likely still be way cheaper than any equivalent “running” backhoe you could find on the interwebs. You got this! Thanks for sharing Cap!
Mike there should be some kind of numbers on that block you might have to they should be on flat spots also make sure when you get those rings that you go ahead and check the gaffing on them that's very important you're doing a great job and don't let anybody put you down about it but you got that for it's worth every penny some money that you are putting into it so you got good bones there to work with all right this is Bob from Vero Beach Florida God bless you God bless your family and keep safe and have a great day and love all your videos
TH-cam videos are great as tutorials, but actually jumping in a doing it can be scary. I'm sure you'll get very "expert" in the world commenting on what you should and shouldn't do, but, just stay your course. You'll get there! And, what a great sense of accomplishment you'll feel when it starts for the first time. Great job Mike! Why am I so proud of you?? IDK, but I am!!
Mike, I have a couple of viewer suggestions: I have found that with old wiring, it is worth buying a spool of wire, and replacing everything you can. Yes, there is a cost, but it is worth it not to be chasing future wiring gremlins. Second, I bought hydraulic line in bulk (100' lengths) and the reusable, field applying fittings. This has saved me a fortune over having the lines made. They are always the prefect length, are made almost instantly, and are way cheaper. Short of buying a hydraulic line swage machine, I think this is next best option.
For future reference Captain. When installing the little keepers use a little dab of greeze to hold them in place. Not so critical on keepers that big but definitely helpful.
Just a thought Mike. If you add a rubber mat to the battery tray, make sure you have drainage or there's a risk that water will be trapped under the mat and that's no bueno. :)
FYI wit rust... after cleaning loose rust off and wire brushing, apply phosphoric acid(sometimes referred to as Naval Jelly) to it and let dry. It turns any rust left into iron oxide, which will not continue to corrode under the new paint... You're doing a great job so far!
Something special about seeing a machine like this get put back together. I think you will get it to work, and I am guessing they got tired of it more than it had some major problem.
Well you are doing your first in frame rebuild. Make sure to pull the oil suction screen and clean it. Doesn't make any sense to do all this and not to. Also, remember the recess in the top of the pistons goes away from the oil filter. Also there should be a mark on the rod caps that indicates which way they go on the rods. You might want to consider pressure washing it before you start to reassemble. You are at a good place to do this and will have a cleaner assembly if you do. Good job so far, just take your time. It will be well worth it when you are done.
Maybe you have a one of a kind!😳 Keep on tinkering, lots to do, and the light at the end of the tunnel will show up soon. I have faith in you. But that leads me to a story back when I was in the service. We had a C-130 in Germany numbered 555, and it was the pig of the fleet🥴 Just you saying triple nickel brought back memories. But nothing we couldn’t handle💪💪 and thank you for the flash back, good times for sure with my brothers and sisters 🇺🇸👍🇺🇸
Doing good Mike . When building engines dont do it dry use some sort of Lube even when you lapped the valves . When i rebuilt engines i always used oil when rebuilding even in the bores. it will all burn off when you start the engine . But for your first time i am well impressed
Since you already have it apart and you have the bearings, best bet is to go ahead and change em. Also, for honing, slow the drill down and move fast with lots of WD40. Can't wait for the next video. 👍
I'm rooting for you, Enjoy the Journey ! I most likey would have called Clint and told him to fix it. but I'm Old and cantankerous now. Other wise I would have been in there with you. Have fun.
I admire your tenasity of working on the engine without any experience or training. I have 2 years of automotive mechanic schooling in highschool BOCES and 2 years in a state college (non degree) auto motive course and have been employed as a auto/heavy duty mechanic for the last 50 years The information available on the internet is invaluable. There is some jerks out there who give advice, but most people are worth listening to. On your engine as far as you have shown us I agree with you just go for it. You will NOT "resize"the cylinders with that hone just resurface them, you don't have enough run time in that drill to enlarge the bore.
Mike make sure to wipe the cylinders down with ATF to halt flash rusting and it helps with installing pistons. Also make sure to either change the oil pump and pickup screen or at the least clean it very well to get the sludge out from sitting in water and oil.
Well no matter what the state of the machine is or how good you are in working on it, it shure makes nice content, and that is what we came here for😀. You can only hope that the gearbox and hydraulic pump are still working, because you don’t know yet. No matter how old or rusty, if you get something to work again the satisfaction is great.
Mike your going through the machine methodically I have good feelings that with a little time hopefully and my all amount of cash you will end up with a good machine for your needs :)
Don't know if anyone mentioned it but I think the oil pan is cast cause it helps hold the 2 halves of the hoe together. That's why the 2 big bolts in the bottom of the pan. Interesting channel like it.
This brought back memories of helping my Dad. He would bring home a car to fix once in a while. I remember those steps don't turn anything around, make sure it is installed just like it was, before we fixed it. Good luck with that, it will be worth the troubles when you turn the heater on, on some cold day, and wish you had a better windshield wiper ?
Good job Mike. Watch out for the crank bearings when you get to them. The oil ports are directional. If put in backwards, the bearing will burn quickly. Sure enjoy your channel.
“ I have good organizational skills as you can tell!” I just about choked on my coffee when you said that, it isn’t what you said much as how you said it, but just so you know, I have the same skill sets, but I was always told that “ you will always find things In the last place you look” I find that pretty much true, also was told by an old timer once to just throw everything on the floor that way you won’t have so many places to look for what your missing, but I be gettin to old to bend down that far, so will stick with the last place I look to find what ever, come to think of it, I should probably look at the last place first, wouldn’t think it would take as long to find whatever it is, I was looking for, then, again, getting to the point that if I can’t find the whatever soon, I kinda, well, forget what I started out looking for, you know what I mean?🙄😏😏🤪😂
Mike, 20 years ago I purchased a Ford 4500 tlb and went through the entire machine just like you are about to do. I pulled the head off my machine but never got into the bottom end of the motor. I also split my machine to work on the clutch. My gut feeling on the engine is maybe this engine is from a Ford 4500 tlb . They were painted blue. A lot of the components on these machines were very similar through their production.
Gettin in deep there bud😁
I’d spend a few more seconds honing cylinders but slow drill speed down and use lots of wd40
I normally have someone spray wide open at same time of honing
Wire wheel the top of pistons and should be a part number for piston and maybe that will lead you towards the right rings?
I assume you have already but make sure it’s not been bored out already it will be stamped on top of pistons also
Std. = stock
.20 .30 etc is overbores
Good luck hopefully you don’t hate me 😁😂🤦♂️lol
Hahaha, hate you? How could I possibly hate you. It's the finest flower planter I've ever owned! 😂😂 definitely appreciate all the help and answering all the messages. 💪
@@CaptainKleeman lol I hope everything else works on it for you
Maybe Clint can send someone to do all the work while you hold the camera. That will speed things up a bit. Enjoy watching. Thx
We can probably all agree that C&C is your most reliable comment. I’ll agree that more honing in the cylinders wouldn’t hurt. Your roto-plunger 6k action is good and will get you a good cross hatch. Those rod bearings are probably a clue to that having been apart, and while they look good, I’d either check with a micrometer or plasti-gauge to see what the clearance is on them. This far in be good to know if the crank has been turned down, the bearings you have may be the wrong size if it has. Keep at it, you’re doing a fine job!
Could those scratches be from excessive end play in the crank since they all in line.
Hone the heck out of the cylinders. Your not going to take out to much material. You want the cylinders as clean as possible for the new rings. Remember that you will have to fit the rings to the cylinder before you put them on the pistons. Keep up the good work.
The backkhoe is yours and will never leave your property. If you put you invest your money and time the education you are creating is priceless. Thanks for taking us on the journey. I wish I had a chance .
Definitely appreciate the support
I messed up on my earlier comment the engine looks like the same engine I have in a 1964 Ford tractor 2000 series
I totally agree with your reasoning. You aren’t planning to use it for anything but your personal projects. You might end up putting a few thousand dollars in this and you couldn’t buy even a junker for that. Clint did you a huge favor. Love the channel
Keep chipping away at it. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for watching
Thank you For showing the breaker bar extension very cool tool
Anytime!
Cap’n I gotcha covered… my first engine rebuild was on a ‘63 Chevy small block V-8. It was done in the middle of August on 100degree days under a tree that shaded it only in the morning.
I worked on it during the day and being only 18 yrs old… kinda rushed it. My dad helped me quite a bit when I tore it down, honed the cylinders, ground the valves, etc. But, when it came time to assemble the pistons, he was out of town.
So, I called my mechanic buddy (who was also 18) for advice. He described how to install the rings, rod bearings… and loaned me a ring compressor.
I carefully installed the rings, offset their gap, pushed them into the cylinder and commenced to install the rod bearings. That’s where it went off track.
In those days, cattle feed came in 100lb and 50lb sacks. Because we had a dairy farm, I handled a lot of them.
After I got the engine all buttoned up, oil in it and the starter installed… I hit the ignition switch…and, the starter strained and clicked then, strained and clicked some more…. finally it got so hot that it blew the fuse. That’s when I got out the big wrench and commenced to turning the crank a few times ‘to loosen it up’.
So, I called my buddy up and asked him to come out and take a look. He started asking me questions about what steps I had gone through… then he asked me how tight I had torqued the piston rod bearings. I assured him that they were ‘plenty tight’. At which point… he mentioned a torque wrench.
You know Cap’n I believe that was the first time I had ever heard of such a thing…. As it turned out, knowing the difference between the weight of a 100lb and a 50lb sack of cattle feed is not close enough for rod bearing bolts. They require a much more discriminating measure.
The result? A couple of rod bearings seized on the crank shaft and scored the piston rod ends and caps. The remainder seized in the rod ends and galled the crank shaft.
The cost of the overhaul doubled… just because a farm boys experience toting feed sacks doesn’t translate to a mechanics use of a torque wrench!
Fortunately for you, there is no hot August sun to cause you to hurry… so you can take the time to read the manual. And, toting fire hoses might translate torque feel a lot better. I don’t know… but iffen you can get ahold of one of those fancy toque wrenches you won’t have to guess!
PS: no ridge in the top of the cylinder walls. You have a lot of wear available in that block. It can’t have too many hours on it.
What vehicle was it?
@@BWYinYang Bel Air, 4 door sedan
Love how you're not afraid of trying something new.
💪
Mike, anytime you have an engine apart, always replace bearings..especially rod bearings. Before all the computerized crap, I loved building engines. Best of luck and have fun.
Your doing an awesome job one thing at a time…
Thanks
I have no doubt you'll get it running. Those engines aren't that complicated and you're not afraid to get dirty. Glad to see you got the head checked and did the valves. No sense doing it again next year.
If you got the time, it's worth your effort. Keep up the good work. C&C is giving you some great advice. They know thir business.
'Stick' - sometimes they are the most useful tool - wonder what a used one would be worth! Admire your determination to have a go at 'fixing' the backhoe.
Very handy
A backhoe no matter how old is an invaluable tool for the farm. It is ABSOLUTELY worth putting money into.
Good video Captain. Loved your explanation of it bouncing off trees and into the river. The pinball backhoe. 🤣 Thank you.
The 555 is a good machine , I agree with Clint , he's a pro .... I would spend a little more time on the cylinder hone . Make the walls smooth and clean out some of that surface imperfection and she will probably run long enough to pass down to your kids .
I think your best bet is listening to C&C, keep doing what your doing, your having fun and you will bring that thing back for it's second or third life. You'll get your money back, and best of all your learning. Keep on keepin on. Love to watch you go at it. Thanks, Captain !
Clean everything before you put it together so its all beautiful an clean well thats how i have done it but up to you and when you grind valves you twist lift twist lift twist hope it runs like a dream for you good luck
You are doing what a lot of people want to do, have fun and enjoy.🙃🐝👍
You got this! Finale is going to be great.
Thanks Tony
Michael I applaud your tenacity. As well as your patience. I figure we’re going to hear this beast purring pretty soon.
A 24hr soak in a 5 gal bucket of Evapo Rust goes along way Mike.👍👍👍👍And saves time. Google the engine stamp numbers to see what it is. ----->Keep in mind. When pulling out the connecter rods and pulling them back onto the crank put cut pieces of hose over the studs first. Cause the treads will nick the very soft crank journals. Making the bearings lock into the nicks after you torque down the nuts. Locking up the engine or they chew up your bearings.
Good tip, thanks mike
Brings back memories (from the 60's) as a teenager working in my Dad's automotive repair shop. Thanks for all your effort in putting the video together.
Yea nice to see that you are dressing up so.e stuff with paint
💪
Thanks for sharing all your ups and downs. I don.t think I would. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching
A fella is learning and doing his best 👍🏼
Great series on rebuilding this tractor I'll be amazed how good the thing Runs you're doing an excellent job please do more rebuilds like this great stuff 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Mike, we love your sense of humor and your free advice. I am going to my auto parts store and signing up for their 'stick leasing program' to save money when I remove gunk form engines. Thanks for the money and time saving tip. Keep the great videos coming as you have time to edit and upload your adventures.
Lol thanks for watching Bill
Captain try and get a large enough container of rust converter to dip the entire backhoe in. Lol God bless
😂😂😂
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching
it would take a LOT more time pumping that Dingle-Ball hone up and down to re-size the bores! You need to run it back thru there a bunch more than you did to properly de-glaze and clean up those cylinders dude!
Agree with Clint hone the cylinder more transmission oil works wonders to clean the cylinder up. While it is apart and you can clean top of the block of the old head gasket. and not have to worry about getting in places you don't want it to. Also they have a nice gasket removing pad for this makes short works of it.
Thanks for the tip John
Mike, I was watching Chris @ Letsdig18 when he got Betty back, his comment was, it's his waste of time and money. In the same comment I also pointed that Mike at DP has his 120 and Jerry over at DC has Christina. Like you say your enjoying working on your Triple Nickel which you'll keep and don't forget your learning all the time, so it's a triple bonus. I'm just a little jealous, as I don't have the space for yours or any of the for mentioned pieces of kit. My joy is my wife's great uncles old workshop vice, which I have been rebuilding, it's all I have space for. Just to let you know my technical item of choice is a length of bamboo, I find that unlike the Auto Part Stick, its more flexible. 🤗
I couldnt afford the bamboo model 😂
Looking good.
Thanks
That’s how I learned. Started out in my dad and grandpa’s shop when I was 12. You are learning stuff that can’t be taught in a classroom and will last you the rest of your life. You have in my opinion 3 of the best people to go to for help, Clint, Kevin and Mike. Stay with it and hi from Texas
Mike your doing very wel man . thanks for the video .
Thanks Leo
C&C is your best source for advise. You are doing good so far.
Thanks Roger
Nice work, Mike. I absolutely love your sense of humor - buy/lease a stick. I also appreciate your willingness to try new things and bring us along. By the way, the piston was coming out as you tapped it with your piece of wood.
Thanks Roy
Mike this adventure is refreshing and educational and very informative. The hoses and the unknown engine situation would scare a lot of green tractor buyers away. Get the engine block and head casting numbers it should tell you what engine it is. Almost like a mix of a gasoline and diesel piston components?
I'm guessing it's already been said. Keep it all as clean as possible(don't forget the oil pick up pipe) and lube any moving parts as you go when putting back together so on start up there is no metal on metal action. What a rewarding job though and from my end a pleasure to watch.👍
To add to C & C when someone removes there oil pan, change the oil pump and the scoop if the engine is old or high miles! You will make it a lot easier now then soon in the future!.. Good luck! Poppa Bear
A little trade secret , clean the cylinder walls with atf , using folded paper towels , the first couple swipes will come out black , clean new paper towels wipe again until clean , maybe clean one the best way you know how , then show the viewers , let's try the aft , and you will be impressed.
I've used more atf on this thing then I have in actual transmissions 😂
Really enjoying this Mike. One thing I remember from my mispent youth is when you install the pistons if you put a 4 or 5 inch piece of hose on the rod bolts it will protect the crank and help align the rod end.
Thanks for the tip
Your first time is always the best. Never worked on heavy equipment engines, but I know that removing the block from a car makes pulling pistons a lot easier.
That is quite a job for a rookie. Keep asking questions and you will be fine. Remember to keep everything in the engine as clean as possible. I remember my first engine teardown and rebuild. The best way to learn something is to do it.
I have done the same thing but with a JD 350 B Dozer and am really satisfied with the results ! Rock on !
Very cool
Hang in there. Check the oil pump out if you have time. Good luck
Thanks Eric
It's like eating an elephant Cap, just one bite at a time. Have fun.
I am so cheering for you to get this running. You could even sneak in an extra video of you cleaning parts or washing the years of grime off.
Man that wire sleeve looks like a dang gone snake! I would watch out. Great video thanks for bringing us alone Captain.
I have done essentially the same thing as you, tearing an engine apart and rebuilding it. Except my engine was the rear mounted engine in a Corvair. Like you I had a manual and went step by step. The engine was horizontally mounted and I never took it out of the car. This was in 1981-82 time frame. and it ran beautifully after all was done. I had never done that before, so I was quite pleased when it ran and I was finished. Drove that car from Abilene Tx. to South Carolina the following year.
Very cool!
mike and the mechanics!!!!
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Scoring on the pistons might be from overheating. So if it were me, I'd check over the water pump and clean the snot out of the rad. Love seeing you dig into unfamiliar waters! Keep at it!
Definitely on the list if we get it fired up
I take my hat off to you Mike, you are not afraid to pull the 555 apart and find out how it works !!!
When I left school I worked for a coachbuilders, did so well at that they put me vehicle electrics... I told them I didn't and still don't have the patience to work with any electrics, never mind fixing other people's mess..... 😬
I'm sure there are plenty of well qualified and experienced people out there to give you advice, all I can offer is a shed load of respect Sir ! 👍💪👏
Thanks for the support Alex
In for a penny, in for pound! DIY is the huge cost saver. Even if the block had to come out, and you have to replace the hydraulic pump and all hoses. Once the 555 fires back up, you’ll likely still be way cheaper than any equivalent “running” backhoe you could find on the interwebs. You got this! Thanks for sharing Cap!
Thanks for the support
Doing a fine job. When this thing gets going, your gonna tear up some ground.
Hope so!
Watching this one again. Last time I watched it, I didn’t have a ran when parked John Deere 310 (1971). Now my perspective is different.
Amazing that you just dive into these projects but totally worth it
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Cap'n Mustie1, interesting video 📷📸
You are making good progress, can't wait to hear that engine fire up.
It's all about the journey. Learning is priceless, but you can sometimes pay to skip learning new skills. I prefer learning
Me too!
Mike there should be some kind of numbers on that block you might have to they should be on flat spots also make sure when you get those rings that you go ahead and check the gaffing on them that's very important you're doing a great job and don't let anybody put you down about it but you got that for it's worth every penny some money that you are putting into it so you got good bones there to work with all right this is Bob from Vero Beach Florida God bless you God bless your family and keep safe and have a great day and love all your videos
Thanks Bob
great progress ya equipment is high dollars, good investment and you know where your at
Thanks ken
Well, good luck with it Capt! Great video Capt
Thanks
TH-cam videos are great as tutorials, but actually jumping in a doing it can be scary. I'm sure you'll get very "expert" in the world commenting on what you should and shouldn't do, but, just stay your course. You'll get there! And, what a great sense of accomplishment you'll feel when it starts for the first time. Great job Mike! Why am I so proud of you?? IDK, but I am!!
Appreciate the support!
You are doing better then me, my car never ran when I did what you are doing. :) Thank you and have a good week.
Lol thanks Dennis
nice job captain. I forgot they have sticks in the loan a tool program. lol. looks like more fun to come. cheers.
Thanks Nelson
Mike, I have a couple of viewer suggestions: I have found that with old wiring, it is worth buying a spool of wire, and replacing everything you can. Yes, there is a cost, but it is worth it not to be chasing future wiring gremlins. Second, I bought hydraulic line in bulk (100' lengths) and the reusable, field applying fittings. This has saved me a fortune over having the lines made. They are always the prefect length, are made almost instantly, and are way cheaper. Short of buying a hydraulic line swage machine, I think this is next best option.
For future reference Captain. When installing the little keepers use a little dab of greeze to hold them in place.
Not so critical on keepers that big but definitely helpful.
Thanks Wayne
Your videos are a smile for my day! Thank you
Thanks Joyce
Just a thought Mike. If you add a rubber mat to the battery tray, make sure you have drainage or there's a risk that water will be trapped under the mat and that's no bueno. :)
Mike everything you do to this is a step in the right direction. And it was free, and your going to prevail and be on top. 😉😁😆😆😅
FYI wit rust... after cleaning loose rust off and wire brushing, apply phosphoric acid(sometimes referred to as Naval Jelly) to it and let dry. It turns any rust left into iron oxide, which will not continue to corrode under the new paint...
You're doing a great job so far!
thumbs up but iron oxide to iron (II) phoshate..which doesn't expand in volume compared to iron like iron (II) oxide does. i knew what you meant tho.
Love your thought process. Thanks for taking us along. Today is 11/5 got my tee shirt today. Thanks.
Well this journey is definitely getting interesting truly enjoy you taking us along with you. Stay safe
Thanks Bruce
Something special about seeing a machine like this get put back together. I think you will get it to work, and I am guessing they got tired of it more than it had some major problem.
Hope so!
Well you are doing your first in frame rebuild. Make sure to pull the oil suction screen and clean it. Doesn't make any sense to do all this and not to. Also, remember the recess in the top of the pistons goes away from the oil filter. Also there should be a mark on the rod caps that indicates which way they go on the rods. You might want to consider pressure washing it before you start to reassemble. You are at a good place to do this and will have a cleaner assembly if you do. Good job so far, just take your time. It will be well worth it when you are done.
Maybe you have a one of a kind!😳 Keep on tinkering, lots to do, and the light at the end of the tunnel will show up soon. I have faith in you. But that leads me to a story back when I was in the service. We had a C-130 in Germany numbered 555, and it was the pig of the fleet🥴 Just you saying triple nickel brought back memories. But nothing we couldn’t handle💪💪 and thank you for the flash back, good times for sure with my brothers and sisters 🇺🇸👍🇺🇸
Very cool story sir!
Doing good Mike . When building engines dont do it dry use some sort of Lube even when you lapped the valves . When i rebuilt engines i always used oil when rebuilding even in the bores. it will all burn off when you start the engine . But for your first time i am well impressed
Since you already have it apart and you have the bearings, best bet is to go ahead and change em. Also, for honing, slow the drill down and move fast with lots of WD40. Can't wait for the next video. 👍
Lol! Love your approach to this project! Good place to be! Thank you for taking us along!
Thanks for watching
I'm rooting for you, Enjoy the Journey ! I most likey would have called Clint and told him to fix it. but I'm Old and cantankerous now. Other wise I would have been in there with you. Have fun.
Thanks for watching
Just to let you know that the 'keepers' you mention are called collets in the UK 🙂🏴
Thanks for telling them; its collet from collet chuck action.
I admire your tenasity of working on the engine without any experience or training. I have 2 years of automotive mechanic schooling in highschool BOCES and 2 years in a state college (non degree) auto motive course and have been employed as a auto/heavy duty mechanic for the last 50 years The information available on the internet is invaluable. There is some jerks out there who give advice, but most people are worth listening to. On your engine as far as you have shown us I agree with you just go for it. You will NOT "resize"the cylinders with that hone just resurface them, you don't have enough run time in that drill to enlarge the bore.
Thanks for support and appreciate the info David
Saw the use of the sledge hammer and was waiting for you to bring out the watermelon for the finale! Great video and content!
😂
Can’t wait to see where this goes! Your right if someone gave it to you then run with it!
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Mike make sure to wipe the cylinders down with ATF to halt flash rusting and it helps with installing pistons. Also make sure to either change the oil pump and pickup screen or at the least clean it very well to get the sludge out from sitting in water and oil.
Yup! I had them soaking in ATF and gave them a rub down before covering. Thanks for watching!
Mike, a great video your so positive, can't wait for the next video, after I have joined the queue to lease a stick 😁. 👍🇬🇧
Lol thanks!
Well no matter what the state of the machine is or how good you are in working on it, it shure makes nice content, and that is what we came here for😀.
You can only hope that the gearbox and hydraulic pump are still working, because you don’t know yet. No matter how old or rusty, if you get something to work again the satisfaction is great.
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I was going to comment but Clint said it all he knows what going on just by watching you it’s a great project Captain 👍👋🇨🇦
Mike your going through the machine methodically I have good feelings that with a little time hopefully and my all amount of cash you will end up with a good machine for your needs :)
Don't know if anyone mentioned it but I think the oil pan is cast cause it helps hold the 2 halves of the hoe together. That's why the 2 big bolts in the bottom of the pan. Interesting channel like it.
Great video, look forward to the next one…
Thanks Gregg
Thanks!
Thanks for watching
Looking good captain great job 👍👌😎✌️🇺🇲
Thanks Ken!
This brought back memories of helping my Dad. He would bring home a car to fix once in a while. I remember those steps don't turn anything around, make sure it is installed just like it was, before we fixed it.
Good luck with that, it will be worth the troubles when you turn the heater on, on some cold day, and wish you had a better windshield wiper ?
That's awesome! Thanks for watching
Be sure to clean the oil pump strainer that hangs down into the oil pan. Looking good.
Definitely! Thanks for watching
Good job Mike. Watch out for the crank bearings when you get to them. The oil ports are directional. If put in backwards, the bearing will burn quickly. Sure enjoy your channel.
Good tip, thanks!
I remember those days !! Your doing great CPT. That engine looks fine and should last you a long time. Can't waite to here it run 👍👍👍👍
Thanks mark
“ I have good organizational skills as you can tell!” I just about choked on my coffee when you said that, it isn’t what you said much as how you said it, but just so you know, I have the same skill sets, but I was always told that “ you will always find things In the last place you look” I find that pretty much true, also was told by an old timer once to just throw everything on the floor that way you won’t have so many places to look for what your missing, but I be gettin to old to bend down that far, so will stick with the last place I look to find what ever, come to think of it, I should probably look at the last place first, wouldn’t think it would take as long to find whatever it is, I was looking for, then, again, getting to the point that if I can’t find the whatever soon, I kinda, well, forget what I started out looking for, you know what I mean?🙄😏😏🤪😂
The amount of multiples I own because I forgot where I put them and rediscovered them is comical at this point. Lol
Mike, 20 years ago I purchased a Ford 4500 tlb and went through the entire machine just like you are about to do. I pulled the head off my machine but never got into the bottom end of the motor. I also split my machine to work on the clutch. My gut feeling on the engine is maybe this engine is from a Ford 4500 tlb . They were painted blue. A lot of the components on these machines were very similar through their production.