It is the IR heat from the HPS lamp itself. Acts as a heat lamp as well as PAR delivery. If you see a spectral chart for HPS that goes above 800nm, you'll see a significant spike and that is where the heat comes from.
@@deleqtronica8733 To my knowledge, this has not been tested for application. The efficiency and conversion to benefits are something worth exploring. I have a couple of IR COBs in the lab just for this. Keep an eye out for that :)
@gandygrows that's awesome, I grow in a small room not in a large space so heat is always an issue for me. I seen your video on hybrid setups and it interests me but I don't think I my room would be able to handle the heat. I ordered a couple of UV-A and IR flood lights, I'm thinking of mounting them up as well. I want to see what your findings are with the IR leds, if they do nothing I'm going to return them.
every time I see test videos like this the question automatically comes to mind, why don't you put the HPS in a cooltube as it should be to perform at its best?
To me, the value of the HPS is the heat. The additional infrastructure for tubes, ducting, and heat evacuation would negate the benefit and make LED a better fit. I ran ducted hoods for years trying to run HPS in a small room, but with higher ceilings and mounting heights, HPS heat the canopy. This drives metabolism or else you need to rely on heat / HVAC. LED has more targeted PAR and I would engineer any new room or facility around them if building from scratch.
Doesn't reducing the wattage of the HPS create more heat and a different light spectrum (more than 1500K difference) than it's designed to run? A 1000w bulb is meant to run at 1000w - Turn it up and raise the light to the desired level and you may find better results.
If you have humid fresh air, yes. If you have to add Dehus to compensate for the added transpiration rate, you are effectively adding heaters. In a hybrid configuration, in extreme heat situations, you can toggle off the HPS to keep temps in range.
@@gandygrows I'm in a hot Humid climate area. So AC has to run 24/7. But I have to use a dehumidifier also to keep the dam humidity in check. It is what it is. But I will say I'm getting great results. VPD is all over the place because of the fluctuation. My plants seem to like it tho.
@@zkilla4611 Hot and Humid are best LED applications. Plant canopy needs to stay warm and humidity needs to not get too low. Too high of RH is always an issue. Not sure what scale you are on 200 sq ft or 20K sq ft facility, but look in to CannabisMechanical's setup on IG. You can trick a mini split with a heat pump to do both, cool and remove humidity. If you hang Quests or Andens, they are essentially just heaters. I'll do more deep dives on this nuance of the topic because I am still learning the difference between latent and sensible loads and heat, re-heat and dehu etc. The initial point to make is that if you take an HPS facility and just swap out 1:1 for LED, you will have issues with too much humidity when removing the Heat from the HPS. Also the heat from HPS heats the canopy directly whereas and LED facility you have to control the Leaf Surface temperature with your ambient temperature, not the IR light from the light source. I've heard a ballpark number of no more than .4 VPD differential bandwidth if possible. A little positive stress is generally good for crops, but when you have high RH or VPD swings, thats when you get condensation, mold or PM issue conditions. If your HVACD can keep up with all the moisture, keep pushing those plants until you can't hold your bandwidths or you'll have issues. Hope this answered some or part of your question!
Great video can't wait to see more like this!!!!.... OATMEAL MUSIC 🎶
Yeah Man! Got several more fixture videos in the chute. Thanks for watching KT!
Is the LST warmer because of the radiant heat from the HPS lighting unit itself or is the heat from the IR light thats emmited by HPS?
It is the IR heat from the HPS lamp itself. Acts as a heat lamp as well as PAR delivery. If you see a spectral chart for HPS that goes above 800nm, you'll see a significant spike and that is where the heat comes from.
@gandygrows thank you for the info. For an all LED grow room or tent, would adding a 850nm IR flood light do anything for LST?
@@deleqtronica8733 To my knowledge, this has not been tested for application. The efficiency and conversion to benefits are something worth exploring. I have a couple of IR COBs in the lab just for this. Keep an eye out for that :)
@gandygrows that's awesome, I grow in a small room not in a large space so heat is always an issue for me. I seen your video on hybrid setups and it interests me but I don't think I my room would be able to handle the heat. I ordered a couple of UV-A and IR flood lights, I'm thinking of mounting them up as well. I want to see what your findings are with the IR leds, if they do nothing I'm going to return them.
every time I see test videos like this the question automatically comes to mind, why don't you put the HPS in a cooltube as it should be to perform at its best?
To me, the value of the HPS is the heat. The additional infrastructure for tubes, ducting, and heat evacuation would negate the benefit and make LED a better fit. I ran ducted hoods for years trying to run HPS in a small room, but with higher ceilings and mounting heights, HPS heat the canopy. This drives metabolism or else you need to rely on heat / HVAC. LED has more targeted PAR and I would engineer any new room or facility around them if building from scratch.
Doesn't reducing the wattage of the HPS create more heat and a different light spectrum (more than 1500K difference) than it's designed to run? A 1000w bulb is meant to run at 1000w - Turn it up and raise the light to the desired level and you may find better results.
You are correct. This was for demonstration purposes only. HPS prefer to be fired and operated at full power for optimum spectrum and performance
News flash. Plants like heat. Hps 4 life.
I started using hps/mh in winter instead of using led with a heater probably cost the same but saves me space , led better for summer
Simply need less AC for LEDs in warm climate at least.
If you have humid fresh air, yes. If you have to add Dehus to compensate for the added transpiration rate, you are effectively adding heaters. In a hybrid configuration, in extreme heat situations, you can toggle off the HPS to keep temps in range.
@@gandygrows I'm in a hot Humid climate area. So AC has to run 24/7. But I have to use a dehumidifier also to keep the dam humidity in check. It is what it is. But I will say I'm getting great results. VPD is all over the place because of the fluctuation. My plants seem to like it tho.
@@zkilla4611 Hot and Humid are best LED applications. Plant canopy needs to stay warm and humidity needs to not get too low. Too high of RH is always an issue. Not sure what scale you are on 200 sq ft or 20K sq ft facility, but look in to CannabisMechanical's setup on IG. You can trick a mini split with a heat pump to do both, cool and remove humidity. If you hang Quests or Andens, they are essentially just heaters. I'll do more deep dives on this nuance of the topic because I am still learning the difference between latent and sensible loads and heat, re-heat and dehu etc.
The initial point to make is that if you take an HPS facility and just swap out 1:1 for LED, you will have issues with too much humidity when removing the Heat from the HPS. Also the heat from HPS heats the canopy directly whereas and LED facility you have to control the Leaf Surface temperature with your ambient temperature, not the IR light from the light source.
I've heard a ballpark number of no more than .4 VPD differential bandwidth if possible. A little positive stress is generally good for crops, but when you have high RH or VPD swings, thats when you get condensation, mold or PM issue conditions. If your HVACD can keep up with all the moisture, keep pushing those plants until you can't hold your bandwidths or you'll have issues.
Hope this answered some or part of your question!
1st
Nailed it!