I run both 600 watt HPS and a 240 watt LED in my 5x5 Flower tent simultaneously. I barley can get any more then 4 plants in it at a time because of the explosive growth under DWC and the benefits of running both types of lights. Thank you for sharing this informative information. Stay Frosted!
Definitely not. Undeniably LED grows better plants people just don't run hot enough rooms when they do LED..... And that environment is easier to control with LED. Not to mention you don't need to replace bulbs, worry about ballasts, worry about popping bulbs while doing foliar sprays, etc.
Gimmick. I can grow good smoke under either. The larger LED fixtures (1000W+) run pretty damn hot (bars get upwards of 95F) and use as much power as an equivalent 1000W Digital Ballast - Lumatek for example. Don't take my word for it - read the specs. I have a Spider Farmer SE1000W and a Lumatek 1000W digital ballast. Then there is the HUGE price difference - even when you consider replacing the bulbs.. Good bulbs will last two-three grows.
For me the choice was made by the money I saved going form HPS to LED. and not even talking about the heat dispersion . The ambient temperature in my area is on a cool day 27 C , so with LED helps a lot .Being on a prePaid electricity grid, you can see the difference almost immediately. Great information as usual! Thanx professor.
What an informative video. The info included in the differences between the two, is a wealth of information that applies to any plant growing. Lots of sorting of my reality in this video. Reconciling all my gut feelings and knowledge from my limited experience like "wow my plants grew 2 inches over night" after I watered & fed them. To the "strength" of my shop lights vs my Fiet grow lights. To having a basic fan on with the lights to increase transpiration. Plenty of ah-ha moments like the "coulda had a V-8" commercial from several years ago lol. A light slap to the cerebral cortex. My intuition meets science 🙂.
I appreciate the information! However this is one of the most expensive leds out there there’s a lot better options than gavita for 1/4 the cost, besides that though I see how the led gavita spectrum is actually very lackluster I think the only fair comparison would be uv/ir led just a thought though!
That less upfront cost will add up at the end of year. On avg you’re saving about $200 per year using LEDs. And that’s just the power consumption… then you have to buy new bulbs every year - then you have to buy different bulbs for flowering. While yea, HID still perform extremely well, they’re just power drains
@@Freedom_Born that is true but not if I can crop out enough for a year in one run with the additional power and space. But I don’t disagree, in the long run it will always be cheaper to go with LEDs. It would probably take 2-3 years of use for the light to pay for itself.
@Veni Vidi Vici I replied before i even got to the end of the video. Matt made some really good points about keeping HID/HPS (if you have them). Also said 6 hps bulbs/fixtures will cost the same as LED upfront. I guess those bulbs will prob last about a year each. So that’s almost 6yrs worth. Which should pay for itself in about a year (depending how much you would’ve spent buying the amount you yield - within that year). That would theoretically be the same for LED - it’ll pay for itself when you’ve grown enough to compare the money you would’ve spent just buying the weed instead.
@@Freedom_Born I spent about $120 to build my own LED system with emitters, transformers, steel tubing and extruded aluminum to illuminate 1/2 square meter. I got more than 150g trimmed bud (+popcorn and trim) 5 times in a year using less than $150 worth of energy. After more than ten years, I've replaced a handful of emitter chips and a couple drivers, but most of the lights still look bright, despite that they were rated for 75% of light after 50,000 hours. Using cheap COB horticultural lights, I could do the same, except brighter, better, and cheaper. Because I grow autos, and don't need deep canopy penetration -70 cm tall plants - LEDs are the ONLY way for me. Buy a soldering iron, 3 Watt emitters or 20 Watt COBs, and thank me later.
I like to put a fan facing the led driver or back of the light. It really helps cool it off, as well as circulate the warmth. Mars hydro has a 780w led for $630. The fc-e8000 covers up to 5x5 ft for veg, 4x4 for flower.
@@DeBaccoUniversityI believe this person is talking about using an external fan just to help cool the fixture a tiny bit more. It's not needed but helps a little bit (who wants hotspots in their garden?)
Great Video. Very informative! Can you please do a video comparing a traditional ppfd Meter with a mobile app Meter like Photone. I've been that app to keep my flowering plants at 800-900 ppfd but I'm not sure how accurate it is compared to much more expensive meters
iPhone sensors are about 7-10% better than android, so the accuracy is better with Apple. Photone won’t go over 2000 ppfd and 300,000 illuminence, the DLI has hours so you can check what’s needed for your cycle.
MIGRO has comparison videos… and Photone is almost as good as regular readers - still off a little - but not as much as the android sensors. Search his videos for comparison reviews.
What I’d tell as owner of that very expensive par meter and owner of the several other meters including the app meters is the measurement of far red isn’t calculated with the App meters. When I measured there was a significant difference between how much additional light was measured with apogee as compared with the others. ie apogee 350 vs 300 on the others and it widened with more intensity
3:00 I don’t think that consumption comparison is accurate, according to my experience, HPS use 100% of the power rating but LED use 1/10th of their power rating. I’m confused on how 1000w and 78w can be so close in consumption? It’s only saving roughly a quarter of the consumption of HPS compared to using 1/10th of the power? It doesn’t seem right
I found that the biggest difference between LED and HID lighting was the ability to choose light wavelength, and MINIMIZE the part of the spectrum that isn't needed (as much). By using ONLY red and blue LEDs, you will have all the light your plants need. Sure, the purple isn't the best in terms of rendering, so adding a few diodes of "white" will give the plants ALL the wavelengths they need from cyan to orange-red light, providing for the accessory pigments, as well as giving more light for the eyes to see the plants better. When you start using those royal blue emitters, you are going to get DENSE bud, like little broccolis on the stem - which can be awesome, until humid air turns to dew, and allows bud rot to hit It's easy enough to build, r have built, a rail-type LED system using readily available 3 Watt diode chips, or even those more of less purple and pink COB lights you might see for $5 per chip for a 20 or 30 watt light - the proper heat sink for these lights might cost $10, though. For less than $200, you could easily have a system able to light up a square meter beyond adequately, and using far less than 300 Watts.
Strange but I can tell you for whatever reason I grew danker buds under those old blurples and I’m not sure why? And true if it weren’t for certain factors I’d still be growing under hps
The single largest issue most people face when switching from hps to led is a colder canopy temperature and this will quickly causes nutrient imbalances, specifcally phosphorus. You must always run LED rooms ten degrees hotter, this is doubly true when you supplement co2 If you know the science as to why I'm all ears. If i were to consult a company making the switch, what i mentioned above is the largest obstacle and first thing that should be mentioned.
In short it has to do with the rate of the photosynthetic reaction. Leaf temperature is important because if the leaf is "cold" the plant processing speed will be "slow", so be increasing the heat this speeds up the reaction rate.
@@DeBaccoUniversity Thanks for the heads up - so basically vpd gets thrown off. What I brought up is a huge issue on cannabis forums for people switching to LED - the problem almost always appearing in early do flower as phosphorus deficiency. The heat required for a healthy vpd seems to be in a ratio with the par value of a light also, so that the fuller spectrum of LEDs requires more total photosynthesis (or whatever scientific term is relevant) given all other variables being the same. So with LEDs you get the lower temps, while simultaneously requiring more photosynthesis, leading to very quick nutrient imbalances the moment your plants finish stretching and start budding. I've seen several operations lose out on revenue for months making the switch. LEDs are a different beast for sure.
Man that was intriguing to hear @7:50 about vpd being as effective as co2 (if I’m understanding that correctly). I kinda already know that any optimal inputs will increase growth regardless. That was just interesting to hear. Another great topic Prof’, many thanks.
Thank you. Finally a honest review on led grow light technology. Most out there are just promotional reviews
This channel is all about scientific based information.
I run both 600 watt HPS and a 240 watt LED in my 5x5 Flower tent simultaneously. I barley can get any more then 4 plants in it at a time because of the explosive growth under DWC and the benefits of running both types of lights. Thank you for sharing this informative information. Stay Frosted!
I used to do both. A lot of people still do. But man the power bill was ridiculous. Now i just run LEDs cos it saves me approx $200 per year
Mixed spectrum can provide plant benefits.
@@Freedom_Born ....and more yield
debacco knows the best quality is grown with HPS lights with the right environment.
It all comes down to the environment;-)
Definitely not. Undeniably LED grows better plants people just don't run hot enough rooms when they do LED..... And that environment is easier to control with LED. Not to mention you don't need to replace bulbs, worry about ballasts, worry about popping bulbs while doing foliar sprays, etc.
Gimmick. I can grow good smoke under either. The larger LED fixtures (1000W+) run pretty damn hot (bars get upwards of 95F) and use as much power as an equivalent 1000W Digital Ballast - Lumatek for example. Don't take my word for it - read the specs. I have a Spider Farmer SE1000W and a Lumatek 1000W digital ballast. Then there is the HUGE price difference - even when you consider replacing the bulbs.. Good bulbs will last two-three grows.
For me the choice was made by the money I saved going form HPS to LED. and not even talking about the heat dispersion . The ambient temperature in my area is on a cool day 27 C , so with LED helps a lot .Being on a prePaid electricity grid, you can see the difference almost immediately.
Great information as usual! Thanx professor.
Money does drive most choices.
Thankyou DeBacco University,I really Enjoyed This One :) Packed Full of Information
Glad it was helpful, there was a lot of research that went into the production.
So much useful information in this video. I love the science backed knowledge you give. Keep up the good work
Glad to know you appreciate science backed knowledge.
What an informative video. The info included in the differences between the two, is a wealth of information that applies to any plant growing. Lots of sorting of my reality in this video. Reconciling all my gut feelings and knowledge from my limited experience like "wow my plants grew 2 inches over night" after I watered & fed them. To the "strength" of my shop lights vs my Fiet grow lights. To having a basic fan on with the lights to increase transpiration. Plenty of ah-ha moments like the "coulda had a V-8" commercial from several years ago lol. A light slap to the cerebral cortex. My intuition meets science 🙂.
Here is the commercial you were thinking of... th-cam.com/video/qYo0lVVH2wU/w-d-xo.html
@@DeBaccoUniversity hahaha ya thats it LMAO.
Thanks for the video. Bery daunting task ive been growing for 20+ years and i feel way out of my element. Happy holidays
The key is to keep on learning!
I appreciate the information! However this is one of the most expensive leds out there there’s a lot better options than gavita for 1/4 the cost, besides that though I see how the led gavita spectrum is actually very lackluster I think the only fair comparison would be uv/ir led just a thought though!
Comparing across the same manufacturer.
This video is funny/well timed for me because I’ve been thinking of flipping the switch the other way to cover more area for less cost upfront. Lol
That less upfront cost will add up at the end of year. On avg you’re saving about $200 per year using LEDs. And that’s just the power consumption… then you have to buy new bulbs every year - then you have to buy different bulbs for flowering. While yea, HID still perform extremely well, they’re just power drains
@@Freedom_Born that is true but not if I can crop out enough for a year in one run with the additional power and space. But I don’t disagree, in the long run it will always be cheaper to go with LEDs. It would probably take 2-3 years of use for the light to pay for itself.
@Veni Vidi Vici
I replied before i even got to the end of the video. Matt made some really good points about keeping HID/HPS (if you have them). Also said 6 hps bulbs/fixtures will cost the same as LED upfront. I guess those bulbs will prob last about a year each. So that’s almost 6yrs worth. Which should pay for itself in about a year (depending how much you would’ve spent buying the amount you yield - within that year). That would theoretically be the same for LED - it’ll pay for itself when you’ve grown enough to compare the money you would’ve spent just buying the weed instead.
^^ I forgot to add that the paying for itself part, will have to include the power and inputs used too. So prob about 2yrs on avg.
@@Freedom_Born I spent about $120 to build my own LED system with emitters, transformers, steel tubing and extruded aluminum to illuminate 1/2 square meter. I got more than 150g trimmed bud (+popcorn and trim) 5 times in a year using less than $150 worth of energy. After more than ten years, I've replaced a handful of emitter chips and a couple drivers, but most of the lights still look bright, despite that they were rated for 75% of light after 50,000 hours. Using cheap COB horticultural lights, I could do the same, except brighter, better, and cheaper. Because I grow autos, and don't need deep canopy penetration -70 cm tall plants - LEDs are the ONLY way for me.
Buy a soldering iron, 3 Watt emitters or 20 Watt COBs, and thank me later.
I like to put a fan facing the led driver or back of the light. It really helps cool it off, as well as circulate the warmth.
Mars hydro has a 780w led for $630. The fc-e8000 covers up to 5x5 ft for veg, 4x4 for flower.
This can be beneficial, but fans fail at a higher rate than most LED's so it is a good addition, but should not be a requirement of the fixture.
@@DeBaccoUniversityI believe this person is talking about using an external fan just to help cool the fixture a tiny bit more. It's not needed but helps a little bit (who wants hotspots in their garden?)
Great Video. Very informative! Can you please do a video comparing a traditional ppfd Meter with a mobile app Meter like Photone. I've been that app to keep my flowering plants at 800-900 ppfd but I'm not sure how accurate it is compared to much more expensive meters
iPhone sensors are about 7-10% better than android, so the accuracy is better with Apple.
Photone won’t go over 2000 ppfd and 300,000 illuminence, the DLI has hours so you can check what’s needed for your cycle.
MIGRO has comparison videos… and Photone is almost as good as regular readers - still off a little - but not as much as the android sensors. Search his videos for comparison reviews.
Great suggestion, but others such as MIGRO are likely a better source for the answer to your question.
What I’d tell as owner of that very expensive par meter and owner of the several other meters including the app meters is the measurement of far red isn’t calculated with the App meters. When I measured there was a significant difference between how much additional light was measured with apogee as compared with the others. ie apogee 350 vs 300 on the others and it widened with more intensity
3:00 I don’t think that consumption comparison is accurate, according to my experience, HPS use 100% of the power rating but LED use 1/10th of their power rating. I’m confused on how 1000w and 78w can be so close in consumption? It’s only saving roughly a quarter of the consumption of HPS compared to using 1/10th of the power? It doesn’t seem right
Numbers generated by the retailer and it is 1000watt to 780 watt comparison.
@@DeBaccoUniversity so your saying the information supplied with the cheap LED unit I bought from China…is wrong? 😅
Great information 👍🏾
Great comment!
I found that the biggest difference between LED and HID lighting was the ability to choose light wavelength, and MINIMIZE the part of the spectrum that isn't needed (as much). By using ONLY red and blue LEDs, you will have all the light your plants need. Sure, the purple isn't the best in terms of rendering, so adding a few diodes of "white" will give the plants ALL the wavelengths they need from cyan to orange-red light, providing for the accessory pigments, as well as giving more light for the eyes to see the plants better. When you start using those royal blue emitters, you are going to get DENSE bud, like little broccolis on the stem - which can be awesome, until humid air turns to dew, and allows bud rot to hit
It's easy enough to build, r have built, a rail-type LED system using readily available 3 Watt diode chips, or even those more of less purple and pink COB lights you might see for $5 per chip for a 20 or 30 watt light - the proper heat sink for these lights might cost $10, though. For less than $200, you could easily have a system able to light up a square meter beyond adequately, and using far less than 300 Watts.
Customized spectrum lights look like the direction of the future, but the science is trying to catch up to the technology at this time.
Strange but I can tell you for whatever reason I grew danker buds under those old blurples and I’m not sure why? And true if it weren’t for certain factors I’d still be growing under hps
The single largest issue most people face when switching from hps to led is a colder canopy temperature and this will quickly causes nutrient imbalances, specifcally phosphorus. You must always run LED rooms ten degrees hotter, this is doubly true when you supplement co2
If you know the science as to why I'm all ears. If i were to consult a company making the switch, what i mentioned above is the largest obstacle and first thing that should be mentioned.
In short it has to do with the rate of the photosynthetic reaction. Leaf temperature is important because if the leaf is "cold" the plant processing speed will be "slow", so be increasing the heat this speeds up the reaction rate.
@@DeBaccoUniversity Thanks for the heads up - so basically vpd gets thrown off. What I brought up is a huge issue on cannabis forums for people switching to LED - the problem almost always appearing in early do flower as phosphorus deficiency.
The heat required for a healthy vpd seems to be in a ratio with the par value of a light also, so that the fuller spectrum of LEDs requires more total photosynthesis (or whatever scientific term is relevant) given all other variables being the same. So with LEDs you get the lower temps, while simultaneously requiring more photosynthesis, leading to very quick nutrient imbalances the moment your plants finish stretching and start budding.
I've seen several operations lose out on revenue for months making the switch. LEDs are a different beast for sure.
just add some infrared and you are good, and you will have the white/blue from leds + the emerson effect of infrared on hps
hps are dead
HPS was invented for lighting large spaces in warehouses.
LED was developed specifically for growing. Jus sayin.
The History of LED Lighting: www.stouchlighting.com/blog/history_of_light_emitting_diode_led-lighting
@@DeBaccoUniversity amazing info thank you Prof.
Man that was intriguing to hear @7:50 about vpd being as effective as co2 (if I’m understanding that correctly). I kinda already know that any optimal inputs will increase growth regardless. That was just interesting to hear.
Another great topic Prof’, many thanks.
Also remember that poorly managed VPD can have exponentially bad impacts on the plant growth and production.
@DeBacco University
Duly noted.
Hard pass on the leds.
HPS still has its advantages.