4:10 can confirm. Put a knock off pump on my rig 6k miles ago and that seal went out on me a block from home a few days ago. Truck was stuttering and stalling, I barely got it back into the driveway. The pump never worked well, usually had a fair bit of white smoke on start ups but the fuel pressure had never dropped to 8 psi before. Figured it was the lift pump since It wouldn't make more than 4 psi when I pumped it manually and it held the pressure after a couple hours. I pulled the pump off the block and a bit of oil and diesel poured out of the hole. Checked the dip stick and it was a finger width over the max line. Immediately suspected the plunger port so to test it I poured some diesel into the top outlet port and watched diesel seep out around the plunger.
2:09 Hey man not sure if you’ll see this sense this video was posted a while ago but i’ve got a question i’m hoping you could help me with. I’m currently modifying and upgrading my fuel system on my 96, i’m putting in a comp cam valve spring in my lift pump and i’m also deleting the pre heater. My first question is about the inlet/outlet fittings on the pump; I believe the female threads in the inlet are 1/2” npt and the female thread in the outlet are m14x1.5, but what I’m trying to figure out what thread size like the whole inlet/outlet fitting is that threads into the body of the pump. I can see it’s a male thread I just don’t know what thread size it is. I’m wanting to increase the female thread size on the outlet to 1/2” npt by finding a fitting that threads into it but I have yet to find anywhere that says what thread size those are or what those fittings are even called. another question I figured i’d ask just incase is if you knew what the thread size was for the inlet in the preheated that connects to the supply line. Anyways that’s all, if you happen to see this and could take a second to answer if you have one I wouldn’t be in debt to you! Thank you.
I just pulled mine off not because it wasn’t pumping but because of a pretty significant ticking sound . Upon further investigation it seems like the plunger is traveling further back than it supposed to and ticking against the spring retainer/end cap. I’m thinking to try and machine a uhmw washer which will move spring further into body and further away from end cap . Otherwise does anyone sell a rebuild kit or any parts for these ? Thanks for video
NoNonsenseKnowHow I’ve read some pretty bad reviews about the current Chinese junk available as replacement . Which direction would you suggest I go in terms of pump choice ?
@@tobaccofarmer4life yeah I hear you on that. I actually did a separate video where I do a comparison of a Chinese pump versus the factory pump. I'm currently using a Chinese dcec pump and I've had really good luck with it. A buddy of mine used the one that is in the description of this video and he's also had great luck with that, 15k miles later no problems
NoNonsenseKnowHow ok appreciate it . I still think I’ll modify this one and see if ticking goes away . It’s not a big deal to tear it off again if need be .
Iv'e installed them plenty of times without being on TDC. So its not a must but certainly a good idea. Just be very careful to make sure it goes in straight and true.
William Baker do you guys know the diameter, thread pitch and length these studs need to be ?? It’ll save me having to remove mine. I’ll run over to fastener shop and buy hardened studs and have them ready to go in. My Chinese pump is leaking now so it needs to be replaced. Think OEM is best huh ??
I got 2001 24 valve Cummins an it loses power when I'm driving, so I'll have to pump the pedal a couple times for it to regain power. I was told it was the lift. Would u know if that is true or what it might be?
NoNonsenseKnowHow.. I saw your other video showing comparison of all 3. Weird that I got a new one from Cummins "made in china" and it's got the hole in it. Maybe they revised?...
William Baker that's great if it has a hole in it. I think the OEM one that I showed in my other video was a knock off. The packaging was official and seemed totally OEM. But as you saw on that other video , once I took it apart it was pretty shoddy inside. . I'm running the dcec one in my truck now and it's been great. However it doesn't have that weep hole and that kind of bothers me some. Since you know if I ever had the seal blowout I won't know and see diesel dripping on the ground. It'll just pump right into my engine. How much was the OEM One that you got?
I know I'm late to the conversation, I am getting fuel in my oil and I suspect a lift pump or an injector. how can I test the pump out of the motor to verify the problem?
Take the fitting off the outlet port and pour some fuel in it. Look for diesel around the plunger. If the plungers wet it's the seal around the plunger and that's probably what is diluting your oil with fuel. If the plunger is dry the seal is fine.
@@brianlittleforest631 thanks! actually we had a huge rainstorm and somehow water got in the engine (the hood was off the truck) I changed the oil and made sure to keep the engine covered and all is good now.
4:10 can confirm. Put a knock off pump on my rig 6k miles ago and that seal went out on me a block from home a few days ago. Truck was stuttering and stalling, I barely got it back into the driveway. The pump never worked well, usually had a fair bit of white smoke on start ups but the fuel pressure had never dropped to 8 psi before.
Figured it was the lift pump since It wouldn't make more than 4 psi when I pumped it manually and it held the pressure after a couple hours.
I pulled the pump off the block and a bit of oil and diesel poured out of the hole. Checked the dip stick and it was a finger width over the max line. Immediately suspected the plunger port so to test it I poured some diesel into the top outlet port and watched diesel seep out around the plunger.
Thanks. I was able to use this info to determine that mine was bad.
If replacing your pump:
*GENUINE CUMMINS LIFT PUMP: amzn.to/2DmZC6p
*FUEL BOWL SCREEN/GASKET KIT: amzn.to/2La8dxb
*FUEL FILTER: amzn.to/2FIXFqf
*STUD MOUNTING KIT: amzn.to/36ezwSq
*UPDATED INJECTION PUMP SUPPLY LINE: amzn.to/2PFn59Q (stock hard lines are prone to cracking)
*My Other 2nd Gen Ram Videos: bit.ly/2TLhJLQ
2:09 Hey man not sure if you’ll see this sense this video was posted a while ago but i’ve got a question i’m hoping you could help me with. I’m currently modifying and upgrading my fuel system on my 96, i’m putting in a comp cam valve spring in my lift pump and i’m also deleting the pre heater. My first question is about the inlet/outlet fittings on the pump; I believe the female threads in the inlet are 1/2” npt and the female thread in the outlet are m14x1.5, but what I’m trying to figure out what thread size like the whole inlet/outlet fitting is that threads into the body of the pump. I can see it’s a male thread I just don’t know what thread size it is. I’m wanting to increase the female thread size on the outlet to 1/2” npt by finding a fitting that threads into it but I have yet to find anywhere that says what thread size those are or what those fittings are even called.
another question I figured i’d ask just incase is if you knew what the thread size was for the inlet in the preheated that connects to the supply line.
Anyways that’s all, if you happen to see this and could take a second to answer if you have one I wouldn’t be in debt to you! Thank you.
Is it possible for the pump to suck air from within itself?
Yeah. If one of the O-rings or seals were leaking then certainly possible
What are the symptoms of bad fuel lift pump on 97 ram 2500 turbo diesel 5.9 Cummins
My pump has this double spring setup that shot the cap across the garage when I took off the inlet side
Is it possible for it to make a knocking type noise. Under load?
yea
I just pulled mine off not because it wasn’t pumping but because of a pretty significant ticking sound . Upon further investigation it seems like the plunger is traveling further back than it supposed to and ticking against the spring retainer/end cap. I’m thinking to try and machine a uhmw washer which will move spring further into body and further away from end cap . Otherwise does anyone sell a rebuild kit or any parts for these ? Thanks for video
No problem man, honestly I would suggest just replacing the whole pump with a new one
NoNonsenseKnowHow I’ve read some pretty bad reviews about the current Chinese junk available as replacement . Which direction would you suggest I go in terms of pump choice ?
@@tobaccofarmer4life yeah I hear you on that. I actually did a separate video where I do a comparison of a Chinese pump versus the factory pump. I'm currently using a Chinese dcec pump and I've had really good luck with it. A buddy of mine used the one that is in the description of this video and he's also had great luck with that, 15k miles later no problems
NoNonsenseKnowHow ok appreciate it . I still think I’ll modify this one and see if ticking goes away . It’s not a big deal to tear it off again if need be .
@@tobaccofarmer4life that's what's up. Let me know how you make out and good luck
Is it a must to find TDC to install the new lift pump or just easier also considering I got the stud kit to reinstall it with.
Iv'e installed them plenty of times without being on TDC. So its not a must but certainly a good idea. Just be very careful to make sure it goes in straight and true.
William Baker do you guys know the diameter, thread pitch and length these studs need to be ?? It’ll save me having to remove mine. I’ll run over to fastener shop and buy hardened studs and have them ready to go in. My Chinese pump is leaking now so it needs to be replaced. Think OEM is best huh ??
I got 2001 24 valve Cummins an it loses power when I'm driving, so I'll have to pump the pedal a couple times for it to regain power. I was told it was the lift. Would u know if that is true or what it might be?
U try fuel filter yet?
Could be the tps sensor. Throttle position sensor
Is the Carter brand the stock one used originally?
William Baker, yes the Carter is the original pump that was in the truck.
NoNonsenseKnowHow.. I saw your other video showing comparison of all 3. Weird that I got a new one from Cummins "made in china" and it's got the hole in it. Maybe they revised?...
William Baker that's great if it has a hole in it. I think the OEM one that I showed in my other video was a knock off. The packaging was official and seemed totally OEM. But as you saw on that other video , once I took it apart it was pretty shoddy inside. . I'm running the dcec one in my truck now and it's been great. However it doesn't have that weep hole and that kind of bothers me some. Since you know if I ever had the seal blowout I won't know and see diesel dripping on the ground. It'll just pump right into my engine. How much was the OEM One that you got?
William Baker thanks for checking out the videos and good luck with the pump you got
NoNonsenseKnowHow $100 straight from Cummins service shop about 2 months ago. If I could post a picture I would.
What size o rings does it take?
I know I'm late to the conversation, I am getting fuel in my oil and I suspect a lift pump or an injector. how can I test the pump out of the motor to verify the problem?
Take the fitting off the outlet port and pour some fuel in it. Look for diesel around the plunger. If the plungers wet it's the seal around the plunger and that's probably what is diluting your oil with fuel.
If the plunger is dry the seal is fine.
@@brianlittleforest631 thanks! actually we had a huge rainstorm and somehow water got in the engine (the hood was off the truck) I changed the oil and made sure to keep the engine covered and all is good now.
Thank You Good video