Hilux 1kdD4d always use Mineral oil 15w40 (hot weather country "Bali"). Change every 4000Km, never see oil burn. Cheap maintenance. Mileage 330.000Km, still strong
On my 1995 GMC Jimmy with the 4.3 liter engine and 350,000 Km the oil consumption is at 1 liter per 5,000 Km using SAE 10W/30 as per the owner’s manual “summer” recommendation of the highest API spec available! I decided to switch to SAE 15W/40 due to the high temperatures prevailing in Costa Rica, where I live, a tropical country that range from 25C to 38C. So far, its consumption is about the same as I had to add 1/2 a quart of oil at the 2,000 Km mark. The oil pressure is always higher than with SAE 10W/30 and the engine seems a little less peppy on the very short on ramps of the sole higher speed road around… So, the jury is still out on this one. I might return to SAE 10W/30. However, on our delivery Van a 1999 Toyota HiAce LH-122 diesel 2.4 liter engine with 450,000 Km I’ve consistently used SAE 15W/40 of the highest diesel oil spec available and change it every 5,000 Km as per the owners recommendation and there is no oil consumption whatsoever. Perhaps I could replace it using a diesel SAE 10W/30 as per the recommendation in the HiAce owners manual as an experiment, but, if it ain’t broke it ain’t worth fixing!
Went from Castrol 5w30 to Liqui Molly 5w40 on n52b30 engine. It used to drink about 1L per 3000 km but with Liqui molly it went down to 500 ml per 10 000km. Huge difference.
It's normal that a thicker oil worsens fuel economy. I wouldn't use 5w50 as this engine was not designed for it and its not the passages but bearing clearance. Search "bearing clearance vs oil viscosity" and you'll know.
5w50 is almost useless because most passenger cars with modern engines require 5w30 which may use 5w40 or end up using 5w40 or 10w40 in case of high mileage cars
@@awaisiqbal8934 I've heard alot of engine builders talk about how 5w50 is superior to 5w30 for performance cars, it's just expensive and hard to make, only a few companies carry 5w50. They both have the same cold flow but when hot the 5w50 resists heat better. I run it and it's good
@@wcovey25 resistant to heat means less flow after heat up. There are many components of an engine which may require different oil viscosities. However, the manufacturer usually recommends the best suitable viscosity of engine oil. We can go up or down just one W of an oil depending upon climate (heat expansion) and wear and tear (mileage of engine)
I'm currently using Penrite HPR5 5w-40 LL01 in my m54b30 with suposedly 362k km, engine drinks 1l of oil every 7000-8000km. I tried in the past Liqui Moly Leichtlauf, Shell Helix ultra (both 5w40 LL01), so the compumption was the same. When CCV broke down, engine used 1l/200km 😅after replacing CCV, it went back to normal 😃
I once used oil 5w-40 from Yacco instead of liqui moly. The oil was more thick burnt slightly less on my 330i but started getting vanos codes and fuel consumption increased.
i used Castro edge 5w50 in my e34 m50nv and it faired fine as far as protection wise, but then again a m50 is like the beginning of an era for these types of engines just not as much electronic focused as for say a e60/e92/1/x 50 weight is alright if you live in a hot subtropical climate (ie me in satx) where the summers can sometimes be brutal and reach 105F
@@user-sf7kl9uh7k i dunno mane the owners manual says 50 weight is okay to use (yes ik the pamphlet is outdated but still kinda useful), sometimes the 40 be burning up a lil too much after awhile
During my holidays i drove about 5000km (3100miles). It consumed 3dl (10 fl oz). Car is a MB w211 E 320cdi my 2005. Oil used is Total Quartz 9000 Energy 5w 40.
My n52b25u1 burns 1L per 5000km. Using BMW TPT 5w30 LL01 or Shell Helix Ultra 5w30 LL01. Mileage: 140.000 kms. Fuel consumption: 5.5L/100km on highway. 12L/100km in city heavy traffic
The viscosity, discript the first Value, is in these Test the same. The second Value is the Value of Heat resistant. The more is the better for Heat resistant.
Hi, I really would like too see the cylinder bores. I doubt it is only the piston/ring design that causes this much oil consumption after the rebuild. I did have n52b25 (e60 2005) with 180k km that did about 3000km/l (5w30) No difference with 5w40. This engine did have a supercharger on it with LPG. I replaced the b25 with a b30 that uses no oil between oil changes (8-10k km). Re-ring with valve seals. No hone.
@@pumm5866 do not use a dingleberry hone to make a crosshatch. you need to use an alusil hone. all the info is in the description of this video: th-cam.com/video/1s68Ssb29C0/w-d-xo.html
it all depends on the head... lifters? thin oil is great.... but anyways in my peugeot 1.4 8v gasoline, I had insane oil consumption... kinda normal for the engine and high miles it has 200.000kms... so I do 20w50 2/3 and 1/3 of 80gear oil. cause in this particular engine it basically does not have tinny passages. anyways... oil consumption went from 1L every 750 to 1L every 2000 ... I have bad valve stem seals too though... After I fix them I will probably go back to thinner 15w40. Save on gas lol havent really changed from 100% 20w50 to 2/3-50 and 1/3-80 edit*** I live in Brazil... I dont recommend the whole mineral super thicker oil in colder weather areas. 0~5w is the way to go incolder areas.. weather you use 20/30/40 or 50 will come down to temp and type of engine... sometimes the oil consumption does not added up to the fuel consumption you will have. just saying...
Great videos one of my go too channels . E39m5 restoration . Nathan bmw garage George austers and this guy . Great content for n52 keep up the videos . I have n52b25 so this content is like gold for me and 99 percent of my interest would be oil related . Keep it up bro
I appreciate it. There wasnt so much info on the n52s so I learned alot through trial an error. So I hope these videos can help other e90 owners. These cars are incredible but so finniky😂
@@buildanddrive 100 percent . I’m sitting on 107 k miles . When I first got the car I was using oil from dealership 5-30 ll04 it would do 1500 miles for liter . Now I’m using Castrol edge 5-30 ll01 I’m getting 2k miles .
Try 5w30 ect c3 shell dexos2 oil after couple of thousand km the engine oil control rings will be clean and sealing again, my oil consumption is dropped significantly. On my M54B22 engine
My n52b25af was burning 1l per 1000km with bardahl 5w40 but after changing the shaft seal to the gearbox and replacing the oil pan gasket putting Motul 5w40 x-clean I was gettnig 3k km per liter, the next oil change i got the motul 5w40 x-cess and actually right now, Im getting 5000km per liter. No rebuild done, spiritedly driving every drive, I havent changet ccv or valve stem seals. Im at 196k km. I actually think you have some sort of oil leak somewhere.
I own a bmw n52b25a e60 and thus far its 1500 km further after the last oil change with 5w30 and still no oil warning light still waiting for it to pop up….then will poor a litre in and check again how much i got with 5w30. Have to say my oil sump gasket is leaking. Still need to replace it.
That's still pretty good oil consumption for an n52 👌🏼. Try checking your oil pan bolts to see if any are loose and then locktight and tighten them gently again. They can break pretty easily because they are torque to yeild bolts.
@@buildanddrive yes bmw says 1l on 1000 km is acceptable. I think the gasket is the problem though, car has 285.XXX on it. And most of the things I replaced are still oem from 2005. I know the bolts are a pain in the ass had a leaky headgasket when I bought the car 2 months ago. Turned out two bolts were broken. Replaced the two bolts but broke one in the process. But maybe I will check the bolt and replace it I already have a extra set of spare bolts haha just in case.
@@buildanddrive oh really. Think I will check this weekend if some small tightining will work..love your vids btw 💪🏽 and the info u are giving and decent testing stuff. Like the other video the oil stop stuff.
Hey bro, another great upload. Thanks for all the time and effort you put in to your videos and all the information you give to your subscribers. The fuel prices where I am are very low but I gave you a big thumbs up anyway. Stay cool bro and keep your videos coming. Very interesting watching. ✌
Thanks vincent, your comment is very motivating. I have so many ideas for videos and they are challenging to make. Where do you live and how much is fuel prices there?
Hey bro, you deserve the boost. I live in Russia and the price per litre is 70 euro cents. Diesel is a little more expensive 73 euro cents. I thought you might have seen where I'm from by your stats, but maybe I'm wrong. I tore apart my Bmw e93 328i N52 B30 engine originally imported in from the states. In Europe they're refered to as the 330i as you well know. Been a bit stuck with my rebuild parts due to the sanctions, but I've worked around the problem now and will start putting mine back together. I didn't have any problems with my engine, it was purely a complete refresh. I stripped the bottom half also. Stay cool man ✌
Don't know how i got here? anyway I enjoyed the video.. great job 👍.. you obviously got some skills to breakdown the motor..Im not sure why you didn't increase the oil return holes in the pistons and go with some better oil control rings? so much labor for poor results is disheartening..
Don't know if there are any better oil control rings, unlike the m52tu, those were a better design but didn't come to the n52 as far as I know. I didn't know about the oil return holes would help that much more with the oil consumption. I assumed new rings would get me at least 1L/3000kms but it didn't. Only about 1L/1600. So bmw designed it that way from the start which I think is crazy
I have been unlucky enough to have bought one of the many BMW oil burners. The compression, pcv and valve seals are ok, but still it burns a lot of oil. I think it could be bad/damaged oil rings, or could it be something else?
Check for vacuum leaks (in my other smoke test video). This would help the CCV to work correctly. Otherwise it's just the bad piston design and worn out rings unfortunately.
I did hone the block BUT you don't need too if everything measures straight. And if you do, it's an alusil block so you need to use a special tool with abrasive pads + a compound... NOT A DINGLEBERRY HONE.
I have an n53b30a 330i and burns 1L/1000 - 1250 miles so around 1600/2000 km I use 5w-30 mannol now as it's only £22 for 5 litres have not tried a thicker oil thougg
I have the exact same engine in US with 260k miles and it doesn’t really burn any oil. May be 1 quart or liter per 4k miles. I think high revs on autobahn doesn’t help.
I have a 2006 330i. I think it is b30. Absolutely love this car with auto ZF trans. Car has been maintained very well with 7k miles oil change with Mobil one 5w30.
Hi, great video! I wonder what causes this high oil consumption that you have? This is the first video that I've seen from your channel and I also wonder why did you decided to rebuild the engine with new piston rings and so on? In a 125i with N52B30 (N or K, the one with the plastic valve cover) I need to top up 1.5 litres in between oil changes (10000 kms). The tendency is to lose 250ml every 1500 kilometers roughly. I have changed the oil sump gasket with new one and new bolts for it, the front crankshaft seal (where the crank pulley is located), pcv pipes (new design), VANOS solenoids and lastly a cheap valve cover with new gaskets. The valve cover cracked half a year ago next to the pcv diaphragm so I am in need of a new one and even though it is leaking oil from there, it's not that much and still within 250ml in 1500 kms. Keep up the great videos!
My 2008 Camry HYBRID recommended 0-20 weight oi, l guess thinner oil for less resistance when the crank rotates thru the oil for better gas mileage, it never burned any oil at all, guess i got a good one, it was made in Japan. Best car I ever owned, 38-40 MPG on the hwy, not 1 thing happened to it in 8 years, just change the oil. Toyota makes awesome vehicles, so I sold it and got a 2016 Lexus NX 200T, We have owned it 7 years and I just had the servicing done and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. We also have a 2012 Sienna, also a great van, had to replace the water pump at 60k miles though.
A thicker oil WILL cause worse fuel economy. Theres more drag on the engine. Try swimming in honey vs water and see how much more energy you spend to get to the finish line. Theres a reason manufacturers have moved on to thinner and thinner engine oils over the years..........
@@buildanddrive yes exactly. It is based on engine temperatures. Hotter engines that use 40 weight oils will have approx the same viscosity as cooler engines that use 30 weight oils at their operating temps. The oil film needs to stay in a fairly strict range of viscosity to do an optimal job. So the weight of oil recommended is based on the engines operating temperature. Too thick or too thin will push it out of its optimal viscosity.
Oil pessure dont mean much its oil flow that really matters. Outside temp is only relitive at startup. After warm up it dont matter one bit. Please educate yourself.
If you treat your car like a tractor for tenths of thoudands of kilometers/miles, it will burn oil. WOT @ 7K rpms is fine for a few times, not all the time.
Hey man I subscribed. It's weird how with my 09 n52b25 once a .25 of a litre drop in the oil reading...oil usage speeds up to .25l per 800km. All up I get around 5k to 6k km per litre of oil on 5w40.
@@buildanddrive ok cheers. Mine is an Feb 09 build and I thought I still had the old rings. I recently pulled plugs and the threads had oily residue so might be valve leak internally.
@@buildanddrive I have E46 M54b25. I bought it from the first owner with complete service documentation. But the car had oil change after 30 000km. Motor consumed oil 1l/2500km 5w40. After 4x oil changes (every 5000km) and using 5w50 oil consumption improved to 1l/4000km. And i tried Liqui Moly motor protect and and maybe it's better or placebo efect, i do not know.
Yes. 10w40 is a better oil depending on the brand and the oil lab test. If you follow the oil forums they have a bunch of good oils that are much better than 5w40 and protect better. I am in a cold climate and prefer to change my oil once per year so 5w40 it is for me
actually no engine is designed to burn oil!(!!!!!!!!!)the reason for your car burning oil, is the low quality and craftmanship of bmw and the failure for not opting for a recall to try and fix flawed engines. seriously this reminds me of the e46 chassis that used to torn apart at 100% rate and bmw didn't issued a recall and someone actually wrote that this chassis is designed to fail to absorb more vibrations!!!!! ahahaha ,hilarius
@Dave Unbranded I wore the mask during COVid and then decided to just keep going with it. 👍🏼 I want to help people fix their cars and have some fun building engines, that doesn't require my face.
@@buildanddrive I think it is alienating and you will not get subs that way. If you don't care about subs, then keep doing what you want. Or do what most people do and let it fly. Sometimes your face will get on camera, sometimes not
Yeah, thanks for the feedback. It's not about subs for me. I agree that people subscribe to good personalities but im not trying to be a big TH-camr. I have a full time job. This is just for fun and to help people.
It's true 🤷🏼♂️. I was inspired by chrisfix. He doesn't show his face and has the biggest automotive following ever. I get the vibe all these car TH-camrs are chasing clout and attention... I just wanna share what I've learned fixing these damn n52s 😂 and have some fun
Hilux 1kdD4d always use Mineral oil 15w40 (hot weather country "Bali"). Change every 4000Km, never see oil burn. Cheap maintenance.
Mileage 330.000Km, still strong
Nice 💪🏼
On my 1995 GMC Jimmy with the 4.3 liter engine and 350,000 Km the oil consumption is at 1 liter per 5,000 Km using SAE 10W/30 as per the owner’s manual “summer” recommendation of the highest API spec available! I decided to switch to SAE 15W/40 due to the high temperatures prevailing in Costa Rica, where I live, a tropical country that range from 25C to 38C. So far, its consumption is about the same as I had to add 1/2 a quart of oil at the 2,000 Km mark. The oil pressure is always higher than with SAE 10W/30 and the engine seems a little less peppy on the very short on ramps of the sole higher speed road around… So, the jury is still out on this one. I might return to SAE 10W/30.
However, on our delivery Van a 1999 Toyota HiAce LH-122 diesel 2.4 liter engine with 450,000 Km I’ve consistently used SAE 15W/40 of the highest diesel oil spec available and change it every 5,000 Km as per the owners recommendation and there is no oil consumption whatsoever. Perhaps I could replace it using a diesel SAE 10W/30 as per the recommendation in the HiAce owners manual as an experiment, but, if it ain’t broke it ain’t worth fixing!
Went from Castrol 5w30 to Liqui Molly 5w40 on n52b30 engine. It used to drink about 1L per 3000 km but with Liqui molly it went down to 500 ml per 10 000km. Huge difference.
That's awesome. The n52b30 seen to respond better and don't have the oil consumption issue that the n52b25 has. 👌🏼
What liqui moly?
Leichtlauf 5w40? Molygen 5w40? Toptec 4200 5w40?
@@hanynowsky Molygen.
Is that a fully synthetic?
@@buildanddrive yes, of course.
I am using 0w20 in my n52b25 in a really hot county because my trips are really short and infrequent. Works very well.
You should be using at least a 0w30 though
If it's very hot, you should use a 5w40
It's normal that a thicker oil worsens fuel economy. I wouldn't use 5w50 as this engine was not designed for it and its not the passages but bearing clearance. Search "bearing clearance vs oil viscosity" and you'll know.
Definetly
5w50 is almost useless because most passenger cars with modern engines require 5w30 which may use 5w40 or end up using 5w40 or 10w40 in case of high mileage cars
@@awaisiqbal8934 I've heard alot of engine builders talk about how 5w50 is superior to 5w30 for performance cars, it's just expensive and hard to make, only a few companies carry 5w50. They both have the same cold flow but when hot the 5w50 resists heat better. I run it and it's good
@@wcovey25 resistant to heat means less flow after heat up. There are many components of an engine which may require different oil viscosities. However, the manufacturer usually recommends the best suitable viscosity of engine oil. We can go up or down just one W of an oil depending upon climate (heat expansion) and wear and tear (mileage of engine)
@@awaisiqbal8934 that’s not true lol
I'm currently using Penrite HPR5 5w-40 LL01 in my m54b30 with suposedly 362k km, engine drinks 1l of oil every 7000-8000km. I tried in the past Liqui Moly Leichtlauf, Shell Helix ultra (both 5w40 LL01), so the compumption was the same. When CCV broke down, engine used 1l/200km 😅after replacing CCV, it went back to normal 😃
Yes CCV will do that lol.
I once used oil 5w-40 from Yacco instead of liqui moly.
The oil was more thick burnt slightly less on my 330i but started getting vanos codes and fuel consumption increased.
Use a full synthetic 5w40 with LL01 or LL04 and you should be fine.
Switch to Pennzoil
Shell
@@mooauto2388shell
Hell Helix Ultra is the same as Pennzoil Ultra Platinum
i used Castro edge 5w50 in my e34 m50nv and it faired fine as far as protection wise, but then again a m50 is like the beginning of an era for these types of engines just not as much electronic focused as for say a e60/e92/1/x
50 weight is alright if you live in a hot subtropical climate (ie me in satx) where the summers can sometimes be brutal and reach 105F
Why, those temps are only interesting for engine startup. Oil runs at way higher temps
Too thick, 10w/40 is as thick as you should go
@@user-sf7kl9uh7k i dunno mane the owners manual says 50 weight is okay to use (yes ik the pamphlet is outdated but still kinda useful), sometimes the 40 be burning up a lil too much after awhile
@@jalenrodriguez4733 If it works for you then do it.
During my holidays i drove about 5000km (3100miles). It consumed 3dl (10 fl oz). Car is a MB w211 E 320cdi my 2005. Oil used is Total Quartz 9000 Energy 5w 40.
That's not too bad 👌🏼
My n52b25u1 burns 1L per 5000km.
Using BMW TPT 5w30 LL01 or Shell Helix Ultra 5w30 LL01.
Mileage: 140.000 kms.
Fuel consumption: 5.5L/100km on highway.
12L/100km in city heavy traffic
Wow your engine is in AWESOME shape. What year is your car?
@@buildanddrive bmw 523iA lci May 2007
i have 2.0tdi and my engine used 1.5l 5w30 oil in 4000km and i changed piston rings too
Well done 👏🏽. That's not too bad oil consumption
The viscosity, discript the first Value, is in these Test the same. The second Value is the Value of Heat resistant. The more is the better for Heat resistant.
I also have n52b25 with 290000+ km. I use castrol 5w-40 and the oil consumption is about 1L/3000km in the city and 1L/5500km outside the city.
Which Castrol? Is it HC oil or full synthetic?
@@buildanddrive castrol edge 5w-40 turbo diesel full synthetic
@@buildanddrive i can guarante you that its the n52b25 with the new piston design that Nodi's driving
what model year?
I have the first version with gray engine cover from 2007.
Hi, I really would like too see the cylinder bores. I doubt it is only the piston/ring design that causes this much oil consumption after the rebuild. I did have n52b25 (e60 2005) with 180k km that did about 3000km/l (5w30) No difference with 5w40. This engine did have a supercharger on it with LPG. I replaced the b25 with a b30 that uses no oil between oil changes (8-10k km). Re-ring with valve seals. No hone.
You can kinda see the bores here: th-cam.com/video/FHOHIt18Rb8/w-d-xo.html
@@buildanddrivewell i am about to rebuild a n53b30 with the same crosshatch hone. I do not like it because of the alusil.
@@pumm5866 do not use a dingleberry hone to make a crosshatch. you need to use an alusil hone. all the info is in the description of this video: th-cam.com/video/1s68Ssb29C0/w-d-xo.html
@@buildanddrive Machineshop already did it. Said it would be OK...
it all depends on the head... lifters? thin oil is great.... but anyways in my peugeot 1.4 8v gasoline, I had insane oil consumption... kinda normal for the engine and high miles it has 200.000kms... so I do 20w50 2/3 and 1/3 of 80gear oil. cause in this particular engine it basically does not have tinny passages. anyways... oil consumption went from 1L every 750 to 1L every 2000 ... I have bad valve stem seals too though... After I fix them I will probably go back to thinner 15w40. Save on gas lol havent really changed from 100% 20w50 to 2/3-50 and 1/3-80
edit*** I live in Brazil... I dont recommend the whole mineral super thicker oil in colder weather areas. 0~5w is the way to go incolder areas.. weather you use 20/30/40 or 50 will come down to temp and type of engine... sometimes the oil consumption does not added up to the fuel consumption you will have. just saying...
Great videos one of my go too channels . E39m5 restoration . Nathan bmw garage George austers and this guy . Great content for n52 keep up the videos . I have n52b25 so this content is like gold for me and 99 percent of my interest would be oil related . Keep it up bro
I appreciate it. There wasnt so much info on the n52s so I learned alot through trial an error. So I hope these videos can help other e90 owners. These cars are incredible but so finniky😂
@@buildanddrive 100 percent . I’m sitting on 107 k miles . When I first got the car I was using oil from dealership 5-30 ll04 it would do 1500 miles for liter . Now I’m using Castrol edge 5-30 ll01 I’m getting 2k miles .
5W40 1.9tdi asv 278k km i change oil every 10k km and any i don't suspect any oli missing its same amounth like when i pour it in engine.
Try and measure it when it comes out next time. I would be interested. 10k without adding oil at that mileage is excellent 👍🏽
With 5-50 oil u can get trouble with clearances in crankshaft bearings. Not lubricating properly.
yeah its a stupid idea to use anything else than what the owners manual says
Try 5w30 ect c3 shell dexos2 oil after couple of thousand km the engine oil control rings will be clean and sealing again, my oil consumption is dropped significantly. On my M54B22 engine
What was the oil consumption before and after?
@@buildanddrive before like 800 km per liter and after 2000 km/l and later it became like 3500 to 4000 km per liter oil, so im very happy
First I also used this 5w30 and the liquimoly Ceratec. But I don't know if that helped or not.....
2009 bmw 128i manual 6 speed, running 5w30 liqui molly 1.5 l per 5000miles including 2 full summer track days in Amp Dawsonville Georgia USA.
Thats pretty good oil consumption, even for track use 👌🏼
My n52b25af was burning 1l per 1000km with bardahl 5w40 but after changing the shaft seal to the gearbox and replacing the oil pan gasket putting Motul 5w40 x-clean I was gettnig 3k km per liter, the next oil change i got the motul 5w40 x-cess and actually right now, Im getting 5000km per liter. No rebuild done, spiritedly driving every drive, I havent changet ccv or valve stem seals. Im at 196k km. I actually think you have some sort of oil leak somewhere.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing. I'll take another look to see if something is leaking again 😂
I own a bmw n52b25a e60 and thus far its 1500 km further after the last oil change with 5w30 and still no oil warning light still waiting for it to pop up….then will poor a litre in and check again how much i got with 5w30. Have to say my oil sump gasket is leaking. Still need to replace it.
That's still pretty good oil consumption for an n52 👌🏼. Try checking your oil pan bolts to see if any are loose and then locktight and tighten them gently again. They can break pretty easily because they are torque to yeild bolts.
@@buildanddrive yes bmw says 1l on 1000 km is acceptable. I think the gasket is the problem though, car has 285.XXX on it. And most of the things I replaced are still oem from 2005. I know the bolts are a pain in the ass had a leaky headgasket when I bought the car 2 months ago. Turned out two bolts were broken. Replaced the two bolts but broke one in the process. But maybe I will check the bolt and replace it I already have a extra set of spare bolts haha just in case.
Mine oil pan bolts rattled loose. I did the gasket again anyway
@@buildanddrive oh really. Think I will check this weekend if some small tightining will work..love your vids btw 💪🏽 and the info u are giving and decent testing stuff. Like the other video the oil stop stuff.
Hey bro, another great upload. Thanks for all the time and effort you put in to your videos and all the information you give to your subscribers. The fuel prices where I am are very low but I gave you a big thumbs up anyway. Stay cool bro and keep your videos coming. Very interesting watching. ✌
Thanks vincent, your comment is very motivating. I have so many ideas for videos and they are challenging to make. Where do you live and how much is fuel prices there?
Hey bro, you deserve the boost. I live in Russia and the price per litre is 70 euro cents. Diesel is a little more expensive 73 euro cents. I thought you might have seen where I'm from by your stats, but maybe I'm wrong. I tore apart my Bmw e93 328i N52 B30 engine originally imported in from the states. In Europe they're refered to as the 330i as you well know. Been a bit stuck with my rebuild parts due to the sanctions, but I've worked around the problem now and will start putting mine back together. I didn't have any problems with my engine, it was purely a complete refresh. I stripped the bottom half also. Stay cool man ✌
N57 6k changes, now on 190k no issues
I agree 💯.
I have been using 0w-40 to BMW LL-04 for some years in BMW M47R diesels for some years with no issues
What was your oil consumption?
@@buildanddriveZero oil consumption between 6,000 mile changes
Don't know how i got here? anyway I enjoyed the video.. great job 👍.. you obviously got some skills to breakdown the motor..Im not sure why you didn't increase the oil return holes in the pistons and go with some better oil control rings? so much labor for poor results is disheartening..
Don't know if there are any better oil control rings, unlike the m52tu, those were a better design but didn't come to the n52 as far as I know. I didn't know about the oil return holes would help that much more with the oil consumption. I assumed new rings would get me at least 1L/3000kms but it didn't. Only about 1L/1600. So bmw designed it that way from the start which I think is crazy
I have been unlucky enough to have bought one of the many BMW oil burners. The compression, pcv and valve seals are ok, but still it burns a lot of oil. I think it could be bad/damaged oil rings, or could it be something else?
Check for vacuum leaks (in my other smoke test video). This would help the CCV to work correctly. Otherwise it's just the bad piston design and worn out rings unfortunately.
When you changed the rings, did you hone the cylinders?
I did hone the block BUT you don't need too if everything measures straight. And if you do, it's an alusil block so you need to use a special tool with abrasive pads + a compound... NOT A DINGLEBERRY HONE.
I have an n53b30a 330i and burns 1L/1000 - 1250 miles so around 1600/2000 km
I use 5w-30 mannol now as it's only £22 for 5 litres have not tried a thicker oil thougg
Try a 5w40 and let me know if it changes anything
I have the exact same engine in US with 260k miles and it doesn’t really burn any oil. May be 1 quart or liter per 4k miles. I think high revs on autobahn doesn’t help.
Do you have the n52b25 or n52b30?
I have a 2006 330i. I think it is b30. Absolutely love this car with auto ZF trans. Car has been maintained very well with 7k miles oil change with Mobil one 5w30.
BMW's a company that seems to worse as time goes on.
Like Ford
Hi, great video! I wonder what causes this high oil consumption that you have? This is the first video that I've seen from your channel and I also wonder why did you decided to rebuild the engine with new piston rings and so on?
In a 125i with N52B30 (N or K, the one with the plastic valve cover) I need to top up 1.5 litres in between oil changes (10000 kms). The tendency is to lose 250ml every 1500 kilometers roughly. I have changed the oil sump gasket with new one and new bolts for it, the front crankshaft seal (where the crank pulley is located), pcv pipes (new design), VANOS solenoids and lastly a cheap valve cover with new gaskets. The valve cover cracked half a year ago next to the pcv diaphragm so I am in need of a new one and even though it is leaking oil from there, it's not that much and still within 250ml in 1500 kms.
Keep up the great videos!
The high oil consumption is caused by the faulty piston ring design. BMW changed this after 2008 in other n52 engines
Hi brother for diesel should I use 5w30 or 5w40in country like Thailand.Cambodia the weather not cool
Yes any 5w30 LL04 bmw certified oil is fine for a diesel.
My 2008 Camry HYBRID recommended 0-20 weight oi, l guess thinner oil for less resistance when the crank rotates thru the oil for better
gas mileage, it never burned any oil at all, guess i got a good one, it was made in Japan. Best car I ever owned, 38-40 MPG on the hwy,
not 1 thing happened to it in 8 years, just change the oil. Toyota makes awesome vehicles, so I sold it and got a 2016 Lexus NX 200T,
We have owned it 7 years and I just had the servicing done and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. We also have a 2012 Sienna, also
a great van, had to replace the water pump at 60k miles though.
Yes I am also a Toyota guy before getting my BMW. My parents car has gone 240,000kms with only basic maintenance. It's amazing!
A thicker oil WILL cause worse fuel economy. Theres more drag on the engine. Try swimming in honey vs water and see how much more energy you spend to get to the finish line. Theres a reason manufacturers have moved on to thinner and thinner engine oils over the years..........
Definitely. The thicker oil is only really useful on the track at very high temps.
@@buildanddrive yes exactly. It is based on engine temperatures. Hotter engines that use 40 weight oils will have approx the same viscosity as cooler engines that use 30 weight oils at their operating temps. The oil film needs to stay in a fairly strict range of viscosity to do an optimal job. So the weight of oil recommended is based on the engines operating temperature. Too thick or too thin will push it out of its optimal viscosity.
Exactly 👍🏼
Do the test on an engin that is not so screwed up!
Engine is rebuilt but has a piston design flaw I didn't know about. New pistons don't burn oil at all.
Oil pessure dont mean much its oil flow that really matters. Outside temp is only relitive at startup. After warm up it dont matter one bit. Please educate yourself.
Please explain more
10L /100KM THATS A LOT... HAVE U EVER TRIED 100% PAO?
What's PAO?
@@buildanddrive pao is real synthetic oil. usually we use hydrocracking that is only called full synthetic but it is not
If you treat your car like a tractor for tenths of thoudands of kilometers/miles, it will burn oil. WOT @ 7K rpms is fine for a few times, not all the time.
Hey man I subscribed.
It's weird how with my 09 n52b25 once a .25 of a litre drop in the oil reading...oil usage speeds up to .25l per 800km. All up I get around 5k to 6k km per litre of oil on 5w40.
Thanks for subbing! 🙏🏼The oil sensor isn't very precise. Your oil consumption seems perfect 👍🏼
you have the new piston design so the comment is useless
@@leifharaldlongbeardiii861 when was it? And no the comment is not useless
Yeah I believe after 2008, they changed the piston design and updated the cylinder head for better oil flow to avoid the ticking
@@buildanddrive ok cheers. Mine is an Feb 09 build and I thought I still had the old rings. I recently pulled plugs and the threads had oily residue so might be valve leak internally.
I use oil 5W50 (Valvoline, Champion) in M54b25 and is it better than 5W30, 5W40.
How is it better?
1l/2500km with 5w40.
Now when i use 5w50 valvoline 1l/4000km
And very important is change oil max 7000km, because previous owner use norm BMW long life (30 000km).
Which engine do you have? I agree not to go much longer to 10k oil changes maxxxx. The first owner did a 22k oil change on the new engine.
@@buildanddrive I have E46 M54b25. I bought it from the first owner with complete service documentation. But the car had oil change after 30 000km. Motor consumed oil 1l/2500km 5w40. After 4x oil changes (every 5000km) and using 5w50 oil consumption improved to 1l/4000km. And i tried Liqui Moly motor protect and and maybe it's better or placebo efect, i do not know.
Damnnnn your car is leaking everywhere man
Bruh, you have no idea 🙃
@@buildanddrive 🤣🤣😂🤣
10w40 350.000 km and runs
Where do you live? Is it a warm climate?
@@buildanddrive i live in Italy
Whats with the mask? You're on your own. WT F. Great video. Subscribed. 🇬🇧
It was covid time when I filmed but then didn't want to show my face on camera.
Keep in mind as your oil gets dirtier it gets thicker !
How so?
try liqui moly ceratec maybe it help. My twingo use 500ml 10kkm
Sure. Want to buy it for me? 👼
0W40 😉
Do you know a good full synthetic 0w40?
@@buildanddrive Petronas Syntium 7000 0W-40
VALVOLINE RESTORE & PROTECT will fix it. 😉🤣😂
Send me some and I'll try it.
Bro seriously😂 5w is the viscosity 5w-30 or -40 refer to heat resistance you want to increase viscosity use 10w someting
Yes. 10w40 is a better oil depending on the brand and the oil lab test. If you follow the oil forums they have a bunch of good oils that are much better than 5w40 and protect better. I am in a cold climate and prefer to change my oil once per year so 5w40 it is for me
I understand but curious what is the thicker oil 10w40 or 5w50😅
Use a lower w rating if you want it reliable in winter snow.
It will stop oil comsumtion because your not gonna have a running engine long using 50 wieght oil. Way to thick.
Yes, 50w is way too much for this engine.
You choosed engine oil from market that i buy bred,addinol🤦♂️
😂
it's burning oil cause it's a BMW 😛
Yes 😬
2.4azfe 800 miles to a quart 08 Camry😢
dang... do those 2.4L really burn that much?
@@buildanddrive hell yeah. It’s sad other than that it’s cool.
Put a 10w60
The engine will explode
0w40@@buildanddrive
@@buildanddrivesorry its a j ajoke eje can i mix 0w40 with 5w50? Racing is really my quesiton
@@buildanddrive do a video of what is better than 3.0 n54 vs el n55 our la somthing avísame y el honda K24
actually no engine is designed to burn oil!(!!!!!!!!!)the reason for your car burning oil, is the low quality and craftmanship of bmw and the failure for not opting for a recall to try and fix flawed engines. seriously this reminds me of the e46 chassis that used to torn apart at 100% rate and bmw didn't issued a recall and someone actually wrote that this chassis is designed to fail to absorb more vibrations!!!!! ahahaha ,hilarius
Bmw says it's ok if the engine burns 1L/700miles. Anything after that is considered "bad"
Are you robbing a store later? Why the gator?
This is the funniest comment ever 😂😂😂😂. just don't want to show my face online
@@buildanddrive why though? Seems like people that know you will know who you are. Give me a day or 2 I can probably post your whole life story
@Dave Unbranded I wore the mask during COVid and then decided to just keep going with it. 👍🏼 I want to help people fix their cars and have some fun building engines, that doesn't require my face.
@@buildanddrive I think it is alienating and you will not get subs that way. If you don't care about subs, then keep doing what you want. Or do what most people do and let it fly. Sometimes your face will get on camera, sometimes not
Yeah, thanks for the feedback. It's not about subs for me. I agree that people subscribe to good personalities but im not trying to be a big TH-camr. I have a full time job. This is just for fun and to help people.
Japanese 🗾 enginess have tighter what?
Tighter tolerances on the piston ring gap
Flip flop
Wha
BMW a pain in the a..
Yes they ARE
Why are you wearing a bandanna?
I mean you’re outside and it just looks stupid
dont wanna show my face.
gangster answer 😂
It's true 🤷🏼♂️. I was inspired by chrisfix. He doesn't show his face and has the biggest automotive following ever. I get the vibe all these car TH-camrs are chasing clout and attention... I just wanna share what I've learned fixing these damn n52s 😂 and have some fun
😂😂😂😂
Please help me, which piston rings are the best for n52b25, which type, number or manufacturer, thanks mate 👍
I talk about that here th-cam.com/video/FHOHIt18Rb8/w-d-xo.html
20w50 is for this car
I will try straight 60W next time 😅