What do you find is the most challenging part of engine block preparation? 🔵 Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all-inclusive VIP online course package deal: hpcdmy.co/offery150 ✊50% OFF your first online engine building course. Enrol now: hpcdmy.co/offery150 TIME STAMPS: 0:00 - Introduction 1:30 - Visual inspection 6:35 - Measuring bores - Stock or oversize? 7:45 - Main cradle/caps inspection 10:50 - Ultrasonic bore thickness testing 12:15 - Checking deck surface for straightness 13:15 - Machining work 25:45 - Deburring 31:45 - Porting oil galleries 33:15 - Questions
@dorifthor even then a good machinist has staff come and go. Andre has used the same one for 15 or so years and the 1000hp 2jz build we did a few years ago for the Practical Engine Building Course came back with a MAJOR issue, which as a good machinist/company they did solve and we have since used them again without issue 😎 Putting it right doesn't get back the lost time and faffing around, but it's something - Taz.
My block had a catastrophic failure and we spun 1 main and 4 rods. No visible heat coloration but it did warp the entire block, since this was an iron block LS with side mains it managed to warp the entire skirt of the block. I was lucky that by some miracle I saved the block. Everything inside the block was trash but since its a 6.0L block was worth saving
@@hpa101 I think I got beyond lucky since the main shrank to where it wouldn't let the crankshaft turn but I was able to correct it to stock main bore specs without going to a machinist. since everything was junk inside I made it a 402 stroker with forged cranksahft, pistons, rods, and a new cam. definitely made lemonade out of that lemon
Very good, as expected - I suspect some sort of psychic abilities, because almost everything I thought of mentioning was addressed almost immediately after. Might have missed it, but I'd also suggest a full crack testing - not just the deck, but the bore walls (you mentioned the sonic checking for wall thickness and casting irregularities) and crankshaft support webbing around the bottom of the bores. Cap bores are undersized deliberately, it allows the builder to use the exact crush they want - you can't machine material back into them... With the line boring/honing of the crankshaft mains' bores, some engines are sensitive to the crank centreline position, so if it needs to be done to correct a problem, or for fitting stronger 'caps, it's good idea to check the bearing manufacturers/suppliers to see if they have bearing sets available with oversize outside diameters. I know this can be done for the Subaru engines, as they're susceptible to issues.
A criticism, as presented here, and depending on the level of the build, is the importance of the order of operations, to establish the datum’s to achieve the target dimensions and squareness. This typically begins with the crankshaft bore.
Andre thanks for the tech videos and podcasts, very good information! Any idea Where can i find the 4g63 6 bolt bellhousing blueprint as i'm making a trans adapter?
Do you guys not sleeve blocks in new Zeeland? Seems like a little bit of a waste, idk what they charge there but it's like 100 dollars a sleeve in the states typically.
Quick question, because I get different answer to it, with a. 010" over alloy piston in a 4G63, what shall be the block bore size, my used block, is. 005" over its original size, and in some places of the bore so actually the bores don't have a even wear, due to class regulations I can't go over. 020", so I'm aiming to. 010" for the 1st matching, but then at the different machine shops I have visited, some of them say they can't hone to achieve. 010" because they are to close to that size (. 005") away from it, other say they can but not garanties, others say no way it has to go. 020", others say it is possible but they are to busy.
I would suggest it's going to depend on how good - rigid - their honing tool is. The problem is a hone will tend to follow the shape of the bore wall. Personally, I would 100% have it bored/cut with a deck plate to ensure it's a clean, straight, parallel*. I'd reference the bore centres from the bottom of the cylinder bore unless I was 100% happy with the referencing from the top edge or dowels. then hone the last thou', or so, to the finished size and finish required for the rings used. *Note, it is possible, though unlikely, that your 0.010" oversize won't clean it up properly, if so, bite the bullet and either go to the next available o'size, or try an other block.
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What do you find is the most challenging part of engine block preparation?
🔵 Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all-inclusive VIP online course package deal: hpcdmy.co/offery150
✊50% OFF your first online engine building course. Enrol now: hpcdmy.co/offery150
TIME STAMPS:
0:00 - Introduction
1:30 - Visual inspection
6:35 - Measuring bores - Stock or oversize?
7:45 - Main cradle/caps inspection
10:50 - Ultrasonic bore thickness testing
12:15 - Checking deck surface for straightness
13:15 - Machining work
25:45 - Deburring
31:45 - Porting oil galleries
33:15 - Questions
Saving up all the money
@alexfrench8142 can relate! - Taz.
Cleanup is the hardest, esp after a catastrophe. Dirty engine = spun bearings
Finding a decent machinist who is capable of the accuracy a high performance engine requires. Not just a slap it together rebuild tolerance.
@dorifthor even then a good machinist has staff come and go. Andre has used the same one for 15 or so years and the 1000hp 2jz build we did a few years ago for the Practical Engine Building Course came back with a MAJOR issue, which as a good machinist/company they did solve and we have since used them again without issue 😎
Putting it right doesn't get back the lost time and faffing around, but it's something - Taz.
Best motoring enthusiast youtube channel bar none.
My block had a catastrophic failure and we spun 1 main and 4 rods. No visible heat coloration but it did warp the entire block, since this was an iron block LS with side mains it managed to warp the entire skirt of the block. I was lucky that by some miracle I saved the block. Everything inside the block was trash but since its a 6.0L block was worth saving
Gotta get lucky with being unlucky sometimes eh! - Taz
@@hpa101 I think I got beyond lucky since the main shrank to where it wouldn't let the crankshaft turn but I was able to correct it to stock main bore specs without going to a machinist. since everything was junk inside I made it a 402 stroker with forged cranksahft, pistons, rods, and a new cam. definitely made lemonade out of that lemon
Straight edge. Try StewartMac, made for guitar necks.
Very good, as expected - I suspect some sort of psychic abilities, because almost everything I thought of mentioning was addressed almost immediately after.
Might have missed it, but I'd also suggest a full crack testing - not just the deck, but the bore walls (you mentioned the sonic checking for wall thickness and casting irregularities) and crankshaft support webbing around the bottom of the bores.
Cap bores are undersized deliberately, it allows the builder to use the exact crush they want - you can't machine material back into them...
With the line boring/honing of the crankshaft mains' bores, some engines are sensitive to the crank centreline position, so if it needs to be done to correct a problem, or for fitting stronger 'caps, it's good idea to check the bearing manufacturers/suppliers to see if they have bearing sets available with oversize outside diameters. I know this can be done for the Subaru engines, as they're susceptible to issues.
old mate had a stroke at 3:40 lol
A criticism, as presented here, and depending on the level of the build, is the importance of the order of operations, to establish the datum’s to achieve the target dimensions and squareness. This typically begins with the crankshaft bore.
Good point, perhaps working through known weaknesses and/or problem areas would be a wise use of resources.
A good flat edge tool for checking blocks is actually a long machinist parallel
Andre thanks for the tech videos and podcasts, very good information! Any idea Where can i find the 4g63 6 bolt bellhousing blueprint as i'm making a trans adapter?
Nice info, thanks U
CSS is the company you’re thinking of
Do you guys not sleeve blocks in new Zeeland? Seems like a little bit of a waste, idk what they charge there but it's like 100 dollars a sleeve in the states typically.
Quick question, because I get different answer to it, with a. 010" over alloy piston in a 4G63, what shall be the block bore size, my used block, is. 005" over its original size, and in some places of the bore so actually the bores don't have a even wear, due to class regulations I can't go over. 020", so I'm aiming to. 010" for the 1st matching, but then at the different machine shops I have visited, some of them say they can't hone to achieve. 010" because they are to close to that size (. 005") away from it, other say they can but not garanties, others say no way it has to go. 020", others say it is possible but they are to busy.
I would suggest it's going to depend on how good - rigid - their honing tool is. The problem is a hone will tend to follow the shape of the bore wall.
Personally, I would 100% have it bored/cut with a deck plate to ensure it's a clean, straight, parallel*. I'd reference the bore centres from the bottom of the cylinder bore unless I was 100% happy with the referencing from the top edge or dowels. then hone the last thou', or so, to the finished size and finish required for the rings used.
*Note, it is possible, though unlikely, that your 0.010" oversize won't clean it up properly, if so, bite the bullet and either go to the next available o'size, or try an other block.