Love the video. All your help is appreciated. Always great to see someone that makes a mistake tell others how not to. Was that the only nut you had to heat up?
Thanks appreciate it! I heated both lock nuts . The one I spoke about and the other one diagonal from it . It can be done with out heat but should let soak in penetrating oil for longer to ensure they don't snap.
@@DanVilla7 yea i saw that too. was thinking about just pulling the studs all the way out so i dont have to worry about snapping them. appreciate the reply bro
@@jeremyfernandez4774 did you figure it out? Mine did the same. I was thinking on plugging an obd2 scanner & try to clear codes but idk if that’ll work. Ill try after work today
Skip the downpipe entirely. There’s 20psi + of full pressure coming into that that turbine with only atmospheric backpressure on the other side. The “need” for a larger pipe is drummed up by speed shops that want to sell parts. Even that tiny stock downpipe is flowing mad with 20psi behind it. Forced induction engines are far less sensitive to exhaust system because you have that huge turbine restriction.
If you were to put a down pipe and a front pipe on a 2020 accord how much would you charge them ; the reason I’m asking is Bc I’m doing it for a customer and I don’t wanna over charger them
Azariah Alicea- My 2¢ but the fact that you’re on a “how to” video & asking how much to charge them to do the install tells me you’re not a mechanic. That said, do it for free with your friend instead of attempting it by yourself & charging them.
im noticing slight rattle after the DP install. im guessing its the heat shied touching. It only happens at a stop with the AC and when the car reaches around 130+ iats FL weather. Are you experiencing anything like it?
@@DanVilla7 its definitely the dp. it was the last thing installed. The rattle was worst at first when I left of the same exact bolt that you did. Everytime iats went near 130 with the a/c on it rattled bad. I somehow got the 4th bolt in which basically eliminated the rattle except for the minor rattle while in reverse when engine is very hot. Guess I gotta go in again and hammer that shield some more to fit the dp
Yo boss hope you’re having a great day. I just installed my PRL catless downpipe & im also runic Borla Catback Exhaust with stock midpipe. For whatever reason, my setup sounds raspy do you have any idea what could cause that? Im currently untuned should be running Phearable Stage 3 later today I don’t know if that could help with sound. I know it’s a different downpipe but it should be similar process
Borla tends to be that way especially when adding a downpipe. Im afraid a tune will not help it. Your best bet is to add a resonator to it and it most likely wont be enough but will help
Absolutely this is a power adder and will put out roughly 23whp and 20 ft/lb. It's not really a sound mod especially for this car although it does change the sound and will be a little louder. Working on posting those videos as well. A downpipe is one of biggest bolt on power adders there is besides a different turbo.
How did you get to the lower two bolts for the top end of the down pipe? We’re they easily accessible like the tops? Bottom seems very straight forward. Thanks in advance. 2022 2.0 Touring with 500 miles and got the ktuner and PRL HVI arriving today!
@@DanVilla7 thanks man. I wasn’t sure if the bottoms were also lock nuts which would be an extreme pia. Thanks for the content and answering my questions brother.
Yes after 700+ miles I got a cel. Once the weather got cold the car ran richer on cold starts and cause it to get a light. I since got a ktuner and turned it off
Love the video. All your help is appreciated. Always great to see someone that makes a mistake tell others how not to. Was that the only nut you had to heat up?
Thanks appreciate it! I heated both lock nuts . The one I spoke about and the other one diagonal from it . It can be done with out heat but should let soak in penetrating oil for longer to ensure they don't snap.
So would it be worth spraying and heating the nut to loosen it or just turn the whole nut/stud in one piece?
I've seen some loosen them cold after spraying them with penetrating oil, as well as heating them. Kinda your call to be honest
@@DanVilla7 yea i saw that too. was thinking about just pulling the studs all the way out so i dont have to worry about snapping them. appreciate the reply bro
Installed one last night and It threw out a lot of warnings(brakes,assists and uphill start)and CEL. Is that normal?
It shouldn't do that at all just from a downpipe install. If you unplugged the battery or flashed your ecu then totally normal
@@DanVilla7 damn I guess I messed up somewhere.
@@DanVilla7 it happened the next morning I got it installed drove home and this morning it popped up with all those. I wonder what it could be.
@@jeremyfernandez4774 the o2 sensor is the only thing that would trip warning lights... really strange 🤔
@@jeremyfernandez4774 did you figure it out? Mine did the same. I was thinking on plugging an obd2 scanner & try to clear codes but idk if that’ll work. Ill try after work today
I'm about to install the rv6 downpipe and just wanted to make sure that the accord plug goes on the top since that hole is not used right?
If you have the factory turbo the o2 sensor goes in the same location as stock and leave the plug on top
@@DanVilla7 okay awesome! I have factory turbo so I’ll put the plug on top. Thanks!
If you were to do this on someone else’s car how much would you charge them for putting a Down pipe and a front pipe on a 2020 accord
At least $650
What does everyone recommend when it comes down to Rv6 downpipe or prl downpipe ?
Skip the downpipe entirely. There’s 20psi + of full pressure coming into that that turbine with only atmospheric backpressure on the other side. The “need” for a larger pipe is drummed up by speed shops that want to sell parts. Even that tiny stock downpipe is flowing mad with 20psi behind it.
Forced induction engines are far less sensitive to exhaust system because you have that huge turbine restriction.
I’m looking at a few downpipe options. What made you go with RV6 over PRL or other brands?
Personal preference
So if was to do this myself, would the penetrating oil and torch be something I absolutely need to remove the lock nuts ?
Also… does the RV6 fit on a 2021 ?
It can be done with just penetrating oil, the longer you let the bolts soak the better. Yes should fit a 21 nothing engine wise has changed
How long did it take you?
If you were to put a down pipe and a front pipe on a 2020 accord how much would you charge them ; the reason I’m asking is Bc I’m doing it for a customer and I don’t wanna over charger them
I'm not a mechanic so I wouldn't be able to tell you
Azariah Alicea- My 2¢ but the fact that you’re on a “how to” video & asking how much to charge them to do the install tells me you’re not a mechanic. That said, do it for free with your friend instead of attempting it by yourself & charging them.
im noticing slight rattle after the DP install. im guessing its the heat shied touching. It only happens at a stop with the AC and when the car reaches around 130+ iats FL weather. Are you experiencing anything like it?
I never got a rattle from the heat shield? Could it possibly be the notorious hood rattle?
@@DanVilla7 its definitely the dp. it was the last thing installed. The rattle was worst at first when I left of the same exact bolt that you did. Everytime iats went near 130 with the a/c on it rattled bad. I somehow got the 4th bolt in which basically eliminated the rattle except for the minor rattle while in reverse when engine is very hot. Guess I gotta go in again and hammer that shield some more to fit the dp
@@TR1_93 ahhh ok. I'm sure if you just give it a slight bend the sound will go away.
Yo boss hope you’re having a great day. I just installed my PRL catless downpipe & im also runic Borla Catback Exhaust with stock midpipe. For whatever reason, my setup sounds raspy do you have any idea what could cause that? Im currently untuned should be running Phearable Stage 3 later today I don’t know if that could help with sound. I know it’s a different downpipe but it should be similar process
Borla tends to be that way especially when adding a downpipe. Im afraid a tune will not help it. Your best bet is to add a resonator to it and it most likely wont be enough but will help
Do you happen to have the torque specs on all the bolts removed? Or are we going with gutentight
I personally didn't tq them to spec.
Any difference in power gains? Or is this mostly for sound?
Absolutely this is a power adder and will put out roughly 23whp and 20 ft/lb. It's not really a sound mod especially for this car although it does change the sound and will be a little louder. Working on posting those videos as well. A downpipe is one of biggest bolt on power adders there is besides a different turbo.
Thanks for documenting this.
@@DanVilla7 thanks for this. Waiting for my rv6 dp and am nervous about the bolts. How Mny miles on your accord before this mod?
@DeathEngine No problem! It was pretty nerve wracking. Mine is a just over 2 years old with almost 20k miles on it.
@@GA08GT478 you got it!
How did you get to the lower two bolts for the top end of the down pipe? We’re they easily accessible like the tops? Bottom seems very straight forward. Thanks in advance. 2022 2.0 Touring with 500 miles and got the ktuner and PRL HVI arriving today!
Yes easily accessible, the only annoying part are the 2 lock nuts everything else is straight forward
@@DanVilla7 thanks man. I wasn’t sure if the bottoms were also lock nuts which would be an extreme pia. Thanks for the content and answering my questions brother.
Did you re-use the gasket that came with it? I know it only sends 1 with RV6.
I reused the gasket that mounts to the turbo. I used the gasket that rv6 sent but that is for the front pipe to downpipe connection
@@DanVilla7 Thanks for responding! I just got the RV6 installed on my 1.5T.
Do i need heat shield ?
Better to keep it on but not 100% necessary
@@DanVilla7why do you think honda incurred the cost of designing and installing a part that isn’t necessary?
How long did it take you to do this?
Took a couple of hours because the one lock nut gave me a hard time
@@DanVilla7 like 3 hours?
Did your 02 sensor go off at all any lights pop up on the screen
Yes after 700+ miles I got a cel. Once the weather got cold the car ran richer on cold starts and cause it to get a light. I since got a ktuner and turned it off
What code did you turn off?
Did you reuse the gasket and bolts?
Same gasket from turbo to downpipe and same bolts. New gasket connecting to the front pipe
@@DanVilla7 thank you. Video much appreciated.
@@glossking3570 you're very welcome!
I just installed my rv6 dp but didn’t place the heat blanket over the dp, are there any negatives Because of that ?
Will keep you engine bay hotter better to keep the additional heat out from the downpipe
@@DanVilla7 man the only reason I didn’t install was because it was touching the dp I was Afraid of vibration.
@@genuinecontent746 it does touch but it makes good contact so I get zero vibration or noise from it.
@@DanVilla7 you the man Dan. Thanks
@@genuinecontent746 no problem!