Hey! I really appreciate the review. So many people try to offer a review after a day on the bike but putting 20km on it and then talking about it is great!
A good review, and out of the normal 20 mile assessment on a newish bike. I'd read a lot of good things about the Himalayan and Scram, so much so that I decided to ride one on a trip to try an Interceptor 650. My first 100 metres riding the Scram hit me with 'What the heck am I doing on this?', but because of the reviews I persevered. By 200 metres I was settling in. After 20 miles I was planning how to buy both it and the Interceptor! No way I could keep my previous big Kawa so, with less regret now than I thought I'd feel, traded that in (for one of each). I've managed about a thousand miles on my own new Scram and also on both a loan Himalayan and another Scram (apart from initial demo, they lent me each on a couple of services while my bikes were in - I'm 45 miles away, so I've just over 100 miles on the Himalayan). There's very little difference imo. I can concur that the seat on the Himalayan, which initially seems plush, then presses on the inner thighs (and other areas!) after ten or twenty miles. In contrast I'd say the Scram feels slightly less comfortable initially, but remains comfortable for a long period - for me. The gearboxes on all three 411 machines I've ridden have been excellent and smooth. You may have been unlucky and had a bad one. Never owned a Triumph twin, but on all those current models I rode, the gearbox was more clunky missed gears were easy. Then again, I grew up over many years with airhead twins and those BM boxes trained one for most things! As reported in reviews, the Scram does move a little more responsively with the smaller front wheel. The Himalayan holds a nicer, easier line on long sweeping bends. But it's subtle. And the fixed headlight and screen - 'fairing mount' - which I like, versus turning headlight of the Scram are probably a personal choice. I missed a tacho on the Scram, but by the time I rode the Himalayan, never looked at it - other than to confirm I was by then used to the engine. I've been very surprised at their on-road ability and, having been caught in torrential rain on them on two occasions, amazed at their capability 'out of the box' to deal with slippery and bumpy roads. Even the oem Ceat tyres have impressed me - first on any bike for years that have been fit for purpose and not needed replacing quickly. The price is an added bonus, but personally, I think it's such a great bike, I'd choose it over the dearer competition. A further bonus is that in buying parts - like engine bars, etc - the cost is much lower than the competition, and the quality seems just as good in many cases, and acceptable in others.
Hi David I have a 2022 Lake Blue Himi and I absolutely love it ! Bought the bike about 1 month ago and wanted an ADV because I plan to do more gentle off-roading. She has currently done about 2600 kms and exceeds my expectations both on and off road. I'm 70 now so definitely no longer looking for speed thrills, much more looking for adventures, which she provided yesterday when I was out on small knarly tracks. In the last 30-odd years of riding I've had many bikes but this Himi is the very first that makes me smile when I look at her, when I ride her and when I park her up and walk away - she's the best, EVER. PS But the seat is still crap !
Thanks for the honest review of your Himalayan. Maybe the vlogger need serious routine maintenance and adjustments to keep his Himalayan works and functions properly. Effectiveness of machines will only rely on timely maintenance.
My biggest problem was false neutrals for the first 50 miles until I pulled the shift lever off, lubed it and adjusted it properly I have heard of a few that came from the factory with the wave spring plate in the clutch incorrectly installed causing a few problems I have a standard valve adjustment tool that fits with absolutely no problems, had it for years, same one that fits all the o,d XL Honda's
I'd love to see a video demonstrating the use of the valve adjustment tool. Warro has some videos showing the adjustment without it. It seems straightforward, but would be nice to have this confirmed visually.
@@jamesdspaderf2883 if I remember when I do mine in 2500 km I'll try and do a vid.. using an adjustment tool is just simpler than trying to use a 4" adjustable on the adjustment square. #2 Roberts head square drive screw in the end of a bit of dowel is the same size if you want a home made one,
Check the position of the gear shifter relative to your boot when riding. You may find you have some pressure on it without knowing and it needs to be adjusted to suit your boots. My shift is smooth and reliable but I did need to adjust it.
I have 29k on my Himalayan now after 20 months of riding it around Thailand. Replaced the battery after a few months and plan to get the Yuasa YTZ10S as a future replacement. It is expensive but slightly smaller than the standard size battery which is a bugger to get in and out. Only other problems I have had were after the 25Km service at a RE Dealership. Idiot there set the Exhaust valve way too tight. As a result it stalled every time I downshifted for corners or Traffic lights. Made the 400Km trip home and rectified the valve setting myself. Whilst doing that the spark plug cap fell apart (brittle plastic) so had to replace it. Bike started first time and stalling issue solved. Runs great again and I love it. Plan to get the 650 Himalayan (if it is ever released) although the 650 Meteor S is a great looking bike (could be tempted)
Nice ride! For smooth gear shift the gear lever pivot and linkages have to be cleaned out and lubed, same for the clutch lever pivot and cable. A clutch lever pivot rubber dust cover would help, try the ones from the smaller Kawasaki enduros. The Kawasaki Ninja 250 clutch and brake lever are a direct fit as these wider dog legged levers are more easier for leverage. The clutch slack adjustment on the Himalayan is opposite from normal bikes, try and fine tune the bite point with a little reserve play at the clutch lever. Do not use additional engine oil additive, it messes up with the clutch plates sharpness. Try AMS MX engine oil, the ones they use for enduro 4 strokes, gives a crispier clutch feel. Maintain proper chain slack adjustment and if possible upgrade to premium quality drive chain, wheel and sprocket bearings. Hope this should be of some help to smoothen out the gears! Have fun!!
@@kevincraig8257this is what I do for my bike, seems to work for me as it helps smoothen out what ever friction is in the circuit. In spite of all this if the clutch feel is harder than average then the concern could be with the internals or even a fault of the user. Have fun, riding!
David..I have the same shift issue on all my bikes. A size 13 boot. I have found that my boot doesn't allow the shifter to return completely to its horizontal position. I solved the issue by fitting a longer shift lever.
Ive got this year's himmi and haven't had any problems with the gear change or false neutrals so maybe you are just unlucky or maybe improvements have been made? Also the saddle seems one of the best ive had as standard.
Regarding the gear shift problem, keep your boot on the gear shifter linkage arm and raise and lower both ends to check for play. Look in a mirror for better judgement. You will also have to reduce the accelerator to very low during shifting and slow down a little for better shift. This is necessary as the bike gets old and the clutch plates get worn out. The gear position indicator may have got worn out. Get it checked during service. However not all bikes wear out at the same rate. Some bikes suffer more damage depending on conditions.
I had some trouble with gear changes. Adjusting my clutch cable fixed that. Every blue moon I stumble upon a false neutral but apart from that it's smooth. Definitely better than average
Yep. Slacken the chain off. I did a two up long ride on dirt roads, and collapsed the big countershaft bearing next to the sprocket...not on an RE...on a suzy 500 Titan.
Hey, i had false neutrals, found it better with one set of boots than my dirt boots, spent some time adjusting up the lever so it has just enough clearance to reset on an upchange and not be slightly held up with my boot. Lever seems just the wrong length that you need to keep your boot in just the rignt place so it doesnt mess with the clearance to reset for the next gear. Bet that doesnt make sense😁.. anyhoo after messing with the adjustment very rarely do I now get a bad change. Cheers for the vid
Davie boy, that's not tullymore forest park there!!! Nice review, down to earth and all the stuff we need to know. Thanks. By the way, its Baltic here🤣
For myself it was a tossup between the new J engine 350, or the Himalayan. I went for the 350 Classic Halcyon model, it made a more favorable impression when compared back to back. The J series engine is the best offering by RE to date, smooth gearbox, the engine runs perfectly. The gearing could be better, with a six speed, or, higher gearing overall with the five speed. I agree with you about the test ride, much too short, I bought mine on faith, and a ton of TH-cam videos.... 🙄
Good to hear your thoughts on the Himalayan after 20,000 cm I’ve just covered 250 miles so found your thoughts interesting and your right about the seat 100 miles in one go was painful 😃🤣👍
Good honest review. Look at the “Seat Concept tall seat” for that bike- it’s flatter and longer. I like the Himalayan just a cool looking bike that feels good to ride Which classic 350 did you have that vibrated a lot? I have the meteor 350 you’re not talking about the model that has an engine are you? That’s a very smooth comfortable bike to ride Cheers mate USA
Nice bike mate, I just bought a 2022 after owning multiple different bikes and I love it, out of the box even its great. I noticed your saddlebags are resting on your exhaust, have you had issues with that? I'm looking at getting a shorter muffler to get it away from my bags
Je vis en Thaïlande, et après beaucoup de moto, des 500, des 750, 1000 et même 1200cc, avec l âge je descend de cylindrée. Je viens d acheter une Himalayan, et après mes 1000 premiers kilomètres, je suis ravi. Certes 25 chevaux c est un peu juste, mais le plaisir est ailleurs avec cette machine.
The stock seat does suck, its not just you. Theres a company in the USA called Seat Concepts that makes a kit to fix the problems with the stock seat. Their kit makes a huge difference.
Mine has been very reliable. In fact much more reliable than some much more expensive big name brands. As for performance, I knew all that before I handed over the money, so it’s not an issue for me. If it’s an issue for you, then don’t buy one. As for comfort, it’s all relative to your body shape, how old you are, and how long you stay in the saddle.
Hey! I really appreciate the review. So many people try to offer a review after a day on the bike but putting 20km on it and then talking about it is great!
20,000 Km**
A good review, and out of the normal 20 mile assessment on a newish bike.
I'd read a lot of good things about the Himalayan and Scram, so much so that I decided to ride one on a trip to try an Interceptor 650. My first 100 metres riding the Scram hit me with 'What the heck am I doing on this?', but because of the reviews I persevered. By 200 metres I was settling in. After 20 miles I was planning how to buy both it and the Interceptor! No way I could keep my previous big Kawa so, with less regret now than I thought I'd feel, traded that in (for one of each).
I've managed about a thousand miles on my own new Scram and also on both a loan Himalayan and another Scram (apart from initial demo, they lent me each on a couple of services while my bikes were in - I'm 45 miles away, so I've just over 100 miles on the Himalayan).
There's very little difference imo.
I can concur that the seat on the Himalayan, which initially seems plush, then presses on the inner thighs (and other areas!) after ten or twenty miles. In contrast I'd say the Scram feels slightly less comfortable initially, but remains comfortable for a long period - for me.
The gearboxes on all three 411 machines I've ridden have been excellent and smooth. You may have been unlucky and had a bad one. Never owned a Triumph twin, but on all those current models I rode, the gearbox was more clunky missed gears were easy. Then again, I grew up over many years with airhead twins and those BM boxes trained one for most things!
As reported in reviews, the Scram does move a little more responsively with the smaller front wheel. The Himalayan holds a nicer, easier line on long sweeping bends. But it's subtle. And the fixed headlight and screen - 'fairing mount' - which I like, versus turning headlight of the Scram are probably a personal choice. I missed a tacho on the Scram, but by the time I rode the Himalayan, never looked at it - other than to confirm I was by then used to the engine.
I've been very surprised at their on-road ability and, having been caught in torrential rain on them on two occasions, amazed at their capability 'out of the box' to deal with slippery and bumpy roads. Even the oem Ceat tyres have impressed me - first on any bike for years that have been fit for purpose and not needed replacing quickly.
The price is an added bonus, but personally, I think it's such a great bike, I'd choose it over the dearer competition. A further bonus is that in buying parts - like engine bars, etc - the cost is much lower than the competition, and the quality seems just as good in many cases, and acceptable in others.
I find the gearbox great. Smooth as silk. For the price I love my bike.
Hi David I have a 2022 Lake Blue Himi and I absolutely love it ! Bought the bike about 1 month ago and wanted an ADV because I plan to do more gentle off-roading.
She has currently done about 2600 kms and exceeds my expectations both on and off road. I'm 70 now so definitely no longer looking for speed thrills, much more looking for adventures, which she provided yesterday when I was out on small knarly tracks.
In the last 30-odd years of riding I've had many bikes but this Himi is the very first that makes me smile when I look at her, when I ride her and when I park her up and walk away - she's the best, EVER.
PS But the seat is still crap !
Thanks for the honest review of your Himalayan. Maybe the vlogger need serious routine maintenance and adjustments to keep his Himalayan works and functions properly. Effectiveness of machines will only rely on timely maintenance.
My biggest problem was false neutrals for the first 50 miles until I pulled the shift lever off, lubed it and adjusted it properly
I have heard of a few that came from the factory with the wave spring plate in the clutch incorrectly installed causing a few problems
I have a standard valve adjustment tool that fits with absolutely no problems, had it for years, same one that fits all the o,d XL Honda's
I'd love to see a video demonstrating the use of the valve adjustment tool. Warro has some videos showing the adjustment without it. It seems straightforward, but would be nice to have this confirmed visually.
@@jamesdspaderf2883 if I remember when I do mine in 2500 km I'll try and do a vid.. using an adjustment tool is just simpler than trying to use a 4" adjustable on the adjustment square. #2 Roberts head square drive screw in the end of a bit of dowel is the same size if you want a home made one,
Check the position of the gear shifter relative to your boot when riding. You may find you have some pressure on it without knowing and it needs to be adjusted to suit your boots. My shift is smooth and reliable but I did need to adjust it.
Just looking at your chain looks a bit on the tight side this could cause gear change problems, try running a bit more slack,should help.
I have 29k on my Himalayan now after 20 months of riding it around Thailand. Replaced the battery after a few months and plan to get the Yuasa YTZ10S as a future replacement. It is expensive but slightly smaller than the standard size battery which is a bugger to get in and out. Only other problems I have had were after the 25Km service at a RE Dealership. Idiot there set the Exhaust valve way too tight. As a result it stalled every time I downshifted for corners or Traffic lights. Made the 400Km trip home and rectified the valve setting myself. Whilst doing that the spark plug cap fell apart (brittle plastic) so had to replace it. Bike started first time and stalling issue solved. Runs great again and I love it. Plan to get the 650 Himalayan (if it is ever released) although the 650 Meteor S is a great looking bike (could be tempted)
Nice ride! For smooth gear shift the gear lever pivot and linkages have to be cleaned out and lubed, same for the clutch lever pivot and cable. A clutch lever pivot rubber dust cover would help, try the ones from the smaller Kawasaki enduros. The Kawasaki Ninja 250 clutch and brake lever are a direct fit as these wider dog legged levers are more easier for leverage. The clutch slack adjustment on the Himalayan is opposite from normal bikes, try and fine tune the bite point with a little reserve play at the clutch lever. Do not use additional engine oil additive, it messes up with the clutch plates sharpness. Try AMS MX engine oil, the ones they use for enduro 4 strokes, gives a crispier clutch feel. Maintain proper chain slack adjustment and if possible upgrade to premium quality drive chain, wheel and sprocket bearings. Hope this should be of some help to smoothen out the gears! Have fun!!
Thanks
so its the linkages nothing internal
@@kevincraig8257this is what I do for my bike, seems to work for me as it helps smoothen out what ever friction is in the circuit. In spite of all this if the clutch feel is harder than average then the concern could be with the internals or even a fault of the user. Have fun, riding!
David..I have the same shift issue on all my bikes. A size 13 boot. I have found that my boot doesn't allow the shifter to return completely to its horizontal position. I solved the issue by fitting a longer shift lever.
Ive got this year's himmi and haven't had any problems with the gear change or false neutrals so maybe you are just unlucky or maybe improvements have been made?
Also the saddle seems one of the best ive had as standard.
I have the same issue with my family jewels going numb with standard seat. My transmission shifts great. Great review.
Regarding the gear shift problem, keep your boot on the gear shifter linkage arm and raise and lower both ends to check for play. Look in a mirror for better judgement. You will also have to reduce the accelerator to very low during shifting and slow down a little for better shift. This is necessary as the bike gets old and the clutch plates get worn out. The gear position indicator may have got worn out. Get it checked during service. However not all bikes wear out at the same rate. Some bikes suffer more damage depending on conditions.
I had some trouble with gear changes. Adjusting my clutch cable fixed that. Every blue moon I stumble upon a false neutral but apart from that it's smooth. Definitely better than average
Yep. Slacken the chain off. I did a two up long ride on dirt roads, and collapsed the big countershaft bearing next to the sprocket...not on an RE...on a suzy 500 Titan.
I suggest to use Idemitsu 15W50 engine oil for smooth gear shifting, I use the same for my standard bullet
Hey, i had false neutrals, found it better with one set of boots than my dirt boots, spent some time adjusting up the lever so it has just enough clearance to reset on an upchange and not be slightly held up with my boot. Lever seems just the wrong length that you need to keep your boot in just the rignt place so it doesnt mess with the clearance to reset for the next gear. Bet that doesnt make sense😁.. anyhoo after messing with the adjustment very rarely do I now get a bad change. Cheers for the vid
Keeping the boots off the lever helps most machines shift better.
Davie boy, that's not tullymore forest park there!!! Nice review, down to earth and all the stuff we need to know. Thanks. By the way, its Baltic here🤣
For myself it was a tossup between the new J engine 350, or the Himalayan. I went for the 350 Classic Halcyon model, it made a more favorable impression when compared back to back. The J series engine is the best offering by RE to date, smooth gearbox, the engine runs perfectly. The gearing could be better, with a six speed, or, higher gearing overall with the five speed. I agree with you about the test ride, much too short, I bought mine on faith, and a ton of TH-cam videos.... 🙄
So you confirm the vibration problem on 350?
@@technokitten2038 there is no vibration problem, smooth engine.
Hi mate . Looks like you’re in Sw WA ? I live in margs. I’m about to purchase one of these bikes . Really appreciate your review. Thanks a lot .
Good to hear your thoughts on the Himalayan after 20,000 cm I’ve just covered 250 miles so found your thoughts interesting and your right about the seat 100 miles in one go was painful 😃🤣👍
Stick with it. The pain will go away in about a year!
@@davidcampbell9004 I had the Honda NC750X before the Himalayan so I’m used to pain 🤣🤣🤣
Your chain is over tensioned. Adjust and gear change should improve
Thanks DC. Great job. Good info. God bless. Happy trails.
Reduce the engine oil a bit from the bottom nut on the front side of the gear box. Gear shifting will become smooth. 👍🏼
I’ll try that
Good honest review. Look at the “Seat Concept tall seat” for that bike- it’s flatter and longer. I like the Himalayan just a cool looking bike that feels good to ride
Which classic 350 did you have that vibrated a lot? I have the meteor 350 you’re not talking about the model that has an engine are you? That’s a very smooth comfortable bike to ride
Cheers mate
USA
You can buy seat materials and make it how you like.
Gran moto la Himalayan es mi sueño. Saludos desde Mendoza Argentina
Nice bike mate, I just bought a 2022 after owning multiple different bikes and I love it, out of the box even its great. I noticed your saddlebags are resting on your exhaust, have you had issues with that? I'm looking at getting a shorter muffler to get it away from my bags
You can't see it, but a have a little home made guard that provides a barrier between exhaust and bag. Never given me problems.
Je vis en Thaïlande, et après beaucoup de moto, des 500, des 750, 1000 et même 1200cc, avec l âge je descend de cylindrée.
Je viens d acheter une Himalayan, et après mes 1000 premiers kilomètres, je suis ravi. Certes 25 chevaux c est un peu juste, mais le plaisir est ailleurs avec cette machine.
What year was the makeof your 350 classic? I saw your other video and you have a review on a meteor, not a classic 350?
Between the 400 and 450 mark, your exhaust appears on the left side, then goes back to the right side!! How did you do that??
the joys of learning to make videos with inadequate tools.
The stock seat does suck, its not just you. Theres a company in the USA called Seat Concepts that makes a kit to fix the problems with the stock seat. Their kit makes a huge difference.
Nice review. I had a 2018 for 9k.
Interesting comments. However will you buy another one?
plis put a Engine Guard .
chain looks too tight, might effect your shifting
Thank you
maybe the gear change is good at a rpm and clunky at another range of RPM...🤔 try changing gears at different RPM ranges to find the sweet spot
90 us or uk mpg??
I deal in Royal Enfield bike spare parts and accessories....in Karol bagh, India.......
Just stand in a saddle for a minute or so when you feel your backside beginning to hurt.
Chain seems too tight, don't try with two people on it
A hyped machine that's all! lacks power, comfort, reliability!
Mine has been very reliable. In fact much more reliable than some much more expensive big name brands. As for performance, I knew all that before I handed over the money, so it’s not an issue for me. If it’s an issue for you, then don’t buy one. As for comfort, it’s all relative to your body shape, how old you are, and how long you stay in the saddle.
Post a video on RE bikes. Minimum views guaranteed 😇😇
Your video is inverted. Don't do it
Did you say 19mpg?! that's horrendous
I turned subtitles on lol - 90 mpg 😀
About 75 mpg