Common failure mode on these is the cord strain relief wearing out, followed by the wires rubbing against the case, at which point you'll be drilling and it'll proceed to shock the snot out of you. What's typical at that point is that the arm that it's shocking is no longer responding to commands from your brain, so you can't open your hand to release the bastage. It's the kind of thing that'd be pretty funny if it wasn't happening to you. If you're lucky and still conscious you can find a 2x4 nearby that you can grab with the other hand and give the affected hand a smack, like some kind of animal. If you get a chance never to use one of these jeezeless things, take it.
Exactly right. Dad had one of those and I was drilling out a broken bolt on my '58 Chev thermostat gooseneck and was standing in a shallow puddle. Wow did I get a jolt. I threw the thing into the nearby creek. My brother went and got it and told my dad. Banned from the garage for about 3 months.
My dad just gave me a vice from around this era. It's made so well that I can't even use it. The thing is so damn heavy that it would flip my pissy work bench..
TacticalBBQSauce Yep, much easier than trying to wriggle them from under rails. :) I saw a guy destroy a sizing planer when he ran a used one through it, he never checked it for the remnants of spikes.
Great video, I have a mid fifties 3/8" slow speed craftsman from a garage sale, it was locked up with a splinter of wood in the fan, cleaned, greased and removed all crap, it works great, forward and if the bit grabs it'll break your wrist. Dam, if it doesn't run all afternoon, I use it for honing engine blocks, mixing mortar, paint and as a die grinder, I've had it 30+ yrs still going strong, not bad for $2.00!
Hello from a Sheffielder! Sheffield actually makes more steel now than it has ever done in history, its just that the rest of the world has increased quicker, that and our steel production is highly automated so few people actually work in the steel industry. My Best wishes to the colonies.
Yes, but it doesn't make all the drills, chucks, tools, cutlery, etc. that it was once famous for. Well known brands like Spear & Jackson, Tyzack, Eclipse, Joseph Marples, Record, Presto, Viners, etc. may still be extant, but they're owned by non-Sheffield based (mostly non-UK) firms, with most or all of their stuff being made elsewhere.
Yes, that is completely true. In fact Sheffield makes very little of the conventional steels. Mostly they make the exotic steels. Mostly the high price but low volume metals. It is a shame there isn't the same volume but its difficult to compete with heavily subsided yet lower quality metals coming out of countries like china.
+Harvey Smith Yes, they went into voluntary liquidation in 2009 due to the recession, but have since reformed and are back making the famous 'footprints' aka pipe wrenches. I was so amazed to see they were still extant, I bought a pair recently to fill the gap between my rather weedy water pump pliers and the full overkill 14" Stillsons.
My dad had that drill, and a good number of the accessories. We used it well into the 80's. One August afternoon I was using it barefoot and got a real jolt!
The orientation of the helical gear makes perfect sense. It's only under load while drilling, and while drilling, there's plenty of force on the chuck to counteract the forward thrust from the helical gear
I guess that's right, when it's not under load the only forward force on the gear is at most a fraction of the force resisting its rotation due to friction.
I have the Black and Decker alloy drill shown at 2:18. My Dad bought it new in 1950 something, and "paid a lot of money for it". When he gave it to me, one of the brushes was bad, so I took it down to the Black and Decker office in town, and they were all amazed. The old guy there hadn't seen on in years. Anyway, long story short, they managed to find me a single set of brushes in South Africa, and they shipped them out to me. This was back in the 90s. They said at the time, that it was the last set of brushes for the drill they could find, and it was unlikely another set could be obtained. So it hangs in my technology museum, in running condition, with the last new set of brushes in the world, in it. :) Oh - mine is 240 volt - of course. The drill came with many attachments too. I distinctly remember a circular saw attachment, a drill press, and a geared buffing attachment, and there may have been others, too, but I don't recall. The drill press is still there too, and it worked amazingly well last time I used it - certainly all you'd ever need if you only drilled wood, and light metal. Great memories. Edit - Oh, I also remember that the circular saw attachment was very good. In fact, it was so good, that for many years, the drill was permanently attached to the saw, because it had a small blade, and Dad preferred it to his new 9" circ saw, which he reserved for heavy cutting only. It was very lightweight - all alloy, and it had a really nicely angled and nice long dust vent which worked a treat, and it was super easy to use, and see where you were cutting. It was the circular saw on which Dad taught me. Great memories.
We lost a wonderful 27 year old kid from Poland to one of those old, solid metal drills that developed a ground fault. He was electrocuted trying to drill a hole for a rivet on a section of gutter sitting on the ground. If he had used a GFCI and/or a double insulated drill he would still be alive today. May the Good Lord rest his soul.
Reminds me of the Milwaukee Hole Shooter I inherited with the house I bought 23 years ago. The drill is probably as old or older than I am (50+). All metal casing, riveted metal plate with serial, model#, etc. Been using it for all sorts of stuff, mainly wire-wheel for cleaning crusty stuff. Torquey little beotch. Major clicky-click switch. No pansy variable speed or reverse either. You got one speed and that's full balls forward. Hold on tight if you got that trigger lock on... Seemed to be getting a little hot and tired lately, plus the cord was perilously close to allowing the pixies to run astray (I prefer NOT to be the ground), so I did a teardown, clean, lube and rebuild. Bearings were still good, no bushings here. Balls in the front, balls in the rear. New chuck, new cord, cleaned out half a century of schmoo and she's off to the races again. Runs way smoother, quieter and far cooler now. Good for another 50 years. I love that old shit. Keep yer drill on the mice.
One of my old toolmaker buddies used to turn down all of the shanks on his drill bits to a 1/4 inch so he could use them in his drill from 1970 with a 1/4 inch chuck.
The rear motor bushing key notch was not aligned properly with the housing and the washer was on the wrong side, DUH, and the felts are to hold oil for the sintered bearings to soak up over the years...
forward axial thrust from some of the motor work is correct - it provides some opposing force to your hands and arms pushing the drill into the workpiece. Meaning your bearings may last longer (being in a semi balanced state)
@snocrash - that's kinda what i was thinking, seems like it would provide a degree of balance under load which seems imo preferential to Ave's suggestion that you could minimize the number of surfaces under wear. Maybe six of one? @Tennesseema20 - I think you might wanna recheck that cause it looks to me like he's spinning it the right way.
Tennesseeman20 you'll need to have another look carefully - the helical gear (i.e., chuck) is being forced towards the workpiece by the torque of the motor
Tennesseeman20 This link will dispel any confidence you have. imgur dot com/a/Zwtwj ,Pink represents the rotational direction of the drill. Orange is the tangential normal force contacting from the primary helical gear. Green represents the vector (and direction) of thrust force.
I did think about it :-) at the time I first commented. Force is applied on each tooth on the large gear - some of which forces the large gear forward out towards the workpiece. That's clearly shown in the diagram (you can visualise it as tooth wanting to slide forward and out of the drill). No engineer or text book is going to have a design for something like this causing the chuck to retract back into the body. It's the way we've been doing it for over a hundred years for these types of gears.
That is exactly what I was thinking. That's why the bushings are in such great shape. The bearings have load in only the direction that they are designed. Part of the reason that you wouldn't want to use a spur cut is that it will put non-parallel force on the bushings and will oval them out. With helical gears, a lot more of the force is in line with the bushings allowing them to work the way they were intended.
I've got one of those. Came with the house, along with a few other kick-ass power tools from the '50s (a circular saw, a jigsaw, and a sheet palm sander), that my wife and I bought about 5 years ago. After all these years (60+), they still work like new.
I just got a 1967 south bend model B lathe as a graduation present!! #1,300 on craigslist with dozens of brazed carbide tools and all the attachments you could imagine!
I have one of those drills, I had gotten shocked from it because the grounding pin on the power cord was missing. I took it apart, and replaced the cord. For one, it is not cordless, and that old drill is no match for a cordless impact model. The only areas of the newer drill that are plastic, are the parts that can be plastic and not effect the durability, and longevity of the drill. The biggest problem with cordless drills was almost solved when they started to utilize the same battery mount . Makita had maintained the same battery mount for a while. All those old cordless drills that only became useless when the battery technology was old, and once the battery became useless, the cost of getting another battery was almost the cost of getting a new drill with two batteries and a new charger. I have various Makita drills, all bought years apart, but they all use the same battery technology, so I have a set of batteries of various capacities, but the same voltage, and i can use them on any of my Makita drills. That includes hammer drills, and impact drills, which all fall back to being a standard drill. One thing more, is that the cordless drills have a clutch, so I can limit the amount of torque in the twist, or give it the full power. It is enough power to break a bolt, if that is what is being done. Try putting up hurricane panels with an old drill like that.
hey ave, I have one of them their drills in a half inch chuck. I has to weigh fifty pounds. I was drilling concrete with it about three years ago and because of the crazy on off switch for a trigger it done picked me up and slammed me into the wall when the bit grabbed goodntight. it has an all metal case and a big ass second handle off the side so when it bites it isn't supposed to break your arm. which is actually the reason I have it. the old timer gave it to me because it snapped his wrist. great vijeyo keep up the good work..
Yea I got one like in the vid, I got it from my grandpa...I still use it, I wish it would go in reverse but oh well....darn things a brick shithouse that will prolly last another 75 years
I use a half inch Sioux at work and that thing scares the shit out of me. Even drilling through 1/4" extruded aluminum it wants to take a part of you with it.
+MrTheHillfolk I have an old black and decker that's the same way! And I have an extra one that I can use for spare parts of I ever need it , just no reverse💀
+smallmechanic Yea I'm sure my grandpa had it apart before ,the cord was probably replaced in the mid 80s sometime 😂 I like using it, it calms my nerves... who wants to go backwards anyways? Lol always move forward 😁
Reminds me of helping my Dad install aluminum doors and windows in Hamilton Ontario in the 1960's! I used to use that kind of drill to bore holes in the window frames and the old man used a Yankee screwdriver to install the windows up on the second and third floor up a wobbly wood extension ladder. Oh, the fun we had! Fridays we go for fish and chips at the Connaught Fish and Chip shop!
The gears are cut to preload the shaft forward and the pressure from the workpiece pushing back on the drill bit will counteract it. It's likely not a balanced equation, but it would help reduce wear on the rear thrust surface. If you reverse the helix of the gear teeth, you are preloading the rear thrust surface which will have to take the additional workpiece pressure as well.
***** Au standard plug can't go in the wrong way, will have to pull it down one day and see what's wrong. Someone may have been fiddling prior It didn't tickle that's for sure :P
My dad worked for Stanley in the 60s (in Sheffield) and had a Stanley-Bridges drill that came with all sorts of attachments - bench grinder, circular saw, combined lathe/pillar drill, even an air compressor/spray gun.
24:10, Man says to son: "Now you see son, the secret is to keep the Chesterfield at LEAST two feet from the paint. Wouldn't want to burn the house down!"
I have the same model of drill! The slot in the bronze bushing for the rear of the armature needs to be lined up with the case, got me a few times too. Mine had a rough go, the cord was completely rotten when I acquired it and I ended up burning out the field windings.
I had a Record vice that broke the first time I used it. One jaw broke and since it was the one that travels I looked at the price of a new one. I paid about $125. or so for the vise and a new jaw was $200. smackers. Oh, by the way, the salesman told me they' had a great warranty but when it crapped out he declined to honour said warranty. The Tool Store has not seen a shinplaster from me since then. My grandfather had a 1/4" drill that looked like that. Skill brand if memory serves. I think I still have drill bits larger than quarter inch with the shaft cut down so I could use them in the quarter inch drill. When cars had generators that were easy to rebuild they had bushings like that. Super easy to replace and all we ever did to impregnate them with oil was to stand it on a thumb, fill with motor oil and with the social finger squeeze for a while. It worked. Anyhoo, another gooder. TY
You can emphasize the cheese factor of these old but great tools, but, I have used and abused that very same model drill since the late 60's. I paid $5.00 for it at a yard sale, used of coarse. It drilled holes, it spun a a rock to sharpen blades, it turned many things it was NEVER designed to. It even was used as an engine starter when the wind up crank on the old Tecumseh 5 hp push mower decided to fly apart. A broken 3/8 extension was ground down with a rock being spun by the drill to 1/4, then a 3/4 socket to adapt it to the flywheel bolt, and voila, an electric mower starter was born. It smoked, it smelled, but it still worked.
lubricious 1. offensively displaying or intended to arouse sexual desire. "he probed the ladies for every lubricious detail of their interactions" 2. smooth and slippery with oil or a similar substance.
Your knowledge of Physics, Electronic Engineering, and Properties of materials as well as Mechanical Engineering is second to none. Your sense of humour is great. Keep up the reviews the world needs to know the real facts about these products.
many many years ago and far far away I, as a kid, used similar drill motors to beyond their capacity with stepped drill bits. Heat became the measuring stick by which I knew when to stop (had to stop cause it was too damned hot to hold). Reversible? Lets get serious!! I keep one old unit as a reminder and my Dad's image alive. Today, we have a much easier life where quality tools make up for craftsmanship of old. Do a review on an old hand crank unit.....that was reversible, variable speed, keyless chuck and a s.o.b. to use. enjoy you videos , thanks for taking the time to share.
They did have Buna-N o-rings in the fifties. GM used Buna-N o-rings to seal the water jackets on their early locomotive engines back in the 40's. I guess they just used felt shock absorbers because they wanted to.
I have this drill, recently bought a house in the uk and it had one of these in the shed, not sure I dare try plugging in as the power cord has been battered a few times. Nice to see theirs a few out there still
I've got an old 4" circular saw attachment for a Cummins electric drill and the drill it goes to. I've tried the saw, it technically cut wood, but I wouldn't want to have to do a lot of cutting with it.
Have one just like it bought at a garage sale for $3.00 and it works great. Used it on a drill powered water pump and locked it on for an hour on a hot summer day with no problems. After seeing your video will plan on taking it apart to clean and re-grease. Love all your videos and your shop smarts.
I have one like this made by the Australian company SHER, I also have the attachments for making it a 5" circular saw and a drum sander. Still in their boxes!
I inherited my Dad's Black and Decker 1/4 inch drill from the early 50's and it looks very similar to that one. All aluminum and built like a locomotive!
I still occasionally use our old Sears and Roebuck metal 110v drill. If my memory is right Dad bought it back around 1958. It is bigger than this one you have though.
Sheffield crew checking in! Weirdly I'm not one for any kind of national patriotism but I always go all warm and fuzzy inside whenever random people around the world reference our city. I'm certain I saw a "Made in Sheffield" on the side of a vice in one of AvE's older videos too...
Been about 12 years now. but I've seen the full set before. old timer had it in his work shop. guy had some great stories. he was a retired machinists.
I just got a south bend lathe for patching a hole in someone's roof, picked a porter cable circular saw up for $15 the entire thing is metal its incredible and powerful, trips breakers before the blade stops
Do you have a video talking about your education/training? You know a lot of stuff about a lot of stuff and I'm curious if you learned it through training, or through life experience or maybe both.
+AvE I made those magnesium crank shafts for Milwaukee. That crank shaft is for a weed waker. I die cast more then just crank shafts. Oil tankers ect. oh and the Foundry is PACE.
Halways through 2019, still plenty of steel products being made in Sheffield. What is surprising is that so much of it is ordinary workhorse industry items; Butchers knives, commercial kitchen equipment, razor blades, carpentry items, stanley knives (boxcutters/carpet knives). Its satisfying that Sheffield made knives are still the most affordable and reliable choice for butchers and chefs.
I used drills like that in school! I loved the arcy-sparky shooting out the cooling vents. I remember our shop teacher showing us how to make brushes from batteries in order to keep the drill going in case it conked out mid-project.
I have one of those and I still use it! I got it from my great grandad. He was a test pilot for the US airforce who was also stationed in Taiwan. They made a documentary on him. Pretty cool.
I've used that exact drill. Needed one about 15 years ago at my grandmother's place. Was the only drill she had laying around buried in a closet. I remember it being awkward as Hell to handle, and it looked like a Tesla coil going at full tilt through the vents.
I thought it was in reference to IKEA and the first run of reviews and teardowns of parts from the Big Shitty. "Boltr" sounds like an IKEA tool product :P
We've got a pawn / junk shop here in South Wales and I've had some really good tools from there obviously hot sold for drug money . So they sell them on for a fraction of what they are worth and by watching this channel I can take them apart clean them and Change the brushes . thank you 👍
I had one that I took a-part. I think some brush sprung free never to be seen again. When it was running it smelled deliciously of ozone and sparked probably more than it should.
Great seeing this piece of nostalgia. I happen to own a USA made RAM 1/4" drill that looks just like this one. It is still my "go to" drill for tight quarters. I love your video's. Keep up the god work. Gary from North West Arkansas, 73 year old home shop machinist.
Ave you need to do a video on how drills or metal tools can shock or even kill people! I have loads of these drills, jig saws, and circ saws that have a metal casing but have been warned to never use them because they have killed
We had one of these drills on the farm in Illinois, I chucked a bolt into it with a socket attached and used it to start the Wheelhorse lawn tractor. Seems it burnt out one winter trying to start the tractor to move snow. Poor old thing.
1 idea for helping determine what kind of grease thickener you're dealing with (clay vs lithium-based vs calcum-based vs etcetc) would be to set up a quick drop test. Take cup with hole in center of the bottom. Pack it with the grease. Heat it up and measure the temperature it falls through at.
ASTM D566 is the standard method. NGLI grade will impact it some - but for the most part the same thickener will fail at around the same temp regardless of grade. Standard Lithium = ~177-204C Standard Calcium = ~96-104 Standard Aluminum = ~110C caclium/aluminum Complex = ~260C Polyurea (common in wet low-load applications) = ~243C ORganic Clay = ~260 Lithium Complex = ~312C Calcium Sulfonate (the tits for high temp) = ~316+C The most common greases right now are lithium complex and calcium sulfonate - but It is very possible that old-school drill has some clay/benonite thickener Keep up the fun videos!
If you want to build out a bit of a "data base" -- you can simply google a grease name followed by tds or pdf and you can usually grab the spec sheet real quick, which will usually list the drop point.
the chuck shaft pushes forward so that when you are pushing on it its not adding your feed pressure to the pressure from the gearing, they counteract eatch other giving you less total force on any individual point
I have one of the sunbeam drill seen at 2:34, it's been clunking around in my garage as long as I can remember. I think it may have been my grandfathers. It still works perfectly. They just don't make 'em like they used to.
I have an old Bosch handheld drill which I inherited from my grandfather. Circa 1960's. All Aluminium housing, 2 speed gearbox, has been used all of his working days to stir grout and the likes for masonry. The chuck needs to be replaced or refurbished, but the drill itself will start and run for hours, even break a wrist while doing so. I have had 1/2 inch drills in it and it is freakishly strong. It will outlast me and the end of the world.
I've got an old Craftsman 1/2" drill that is a sister to the old Milwaukee. Took it apart for a re greasing since it sprung a leak of old grease. Built to run slow but could twist your arm like a wet noodle, drilled a 4 inch hole with it and one of those adjustable auger bits and it didn't even flinch.
I disassembled a super old drill I grabbed from a junk shop and the trigger was a spring-loaded mechanism that actuated an actual toggle switch. Blew my mind lol
i have one of these. father in law picked it up at a garage sale one day. doesn't work but I know nothing about this sort of thing. but to see all the neat stuff you could power with it was cool. thanks.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
I imagine someone watching this video in the 50's, extremely confused as to what happened to the English language xD
I like the idea of some 50s handyman thumbing through a Webster's for the term "elekchicken"
Everyone knows the term elechicken
Common failure mode on these is the cord strain relief wearing out, followed by the wires rubbing against the case, at which point you'll be drilling and it'll proceed to shock the snot out of you. What's typical at that point is that the arm that it's shocking is no longer responding to commands from your brain, so you can't open your hand to release the bastage. It's the kind of thing that'd be pretty funny if it wasn't happening to you. If you're lucky and still conscious you can find a 2x4 nearby that you can grab with the other hand and give the affected hand a smack, like some kind of animal. If you get a chance never to use one of these jeezeless things, take it.
Speaking from experience?
@@PiOfficial It's something you never forget, really.
@@sneezingfrog this a lovely mixture of bloody horrible and hilarious mate.
Exactly right. Dad had one of those and I was drilling out a broken bolt on my '58 Chev thermostat gooseneck and was standing in a shallow puddle. Wow did I get a jolt. I threw the thing into the nearby creek. My brother went and got it and told my dad. Banned from the garage for about 3 months.
My dad just gave me a vice from around this era. It's made so well that I can't even use it. The thing is so damn heavy that it would flip my pissy work bench..
Just get some unused railway sleepers and make a proper bench. Twill last decades.
(see, there is good uses for tree carcasses)
Mike Savage
I like how you specify unused railway sleepers haha
TacticalBBQSauce Yep, much easier than trying to wriggle them from under rails. :)
I saw a guy destroy a sizing planer when he ran a used one through it, he never checked it for the remnants of spikes.
Ouch :(... That's gonna give me nightmares tonight.
if your bench isn't bolted to the ground you're doing it wrong
Great video, I have a mid fifties 3/8" slow speed craftsman from a garage sale, it was locked up with a splinter of wood in the fan, cleaned, greased and removed all crap, it works great, forward and if the bit grabs it'll break your wrist. Dam, if it doesn't run all afternoon, I use it for honing engine blocks, mixing mortar, paint and as a die grinder, I've had it 30+ yrs still going strong, not bad for $2.00!
Hello from a Sheffielder! Sheffield actually makes more steel now than it has ever done in history, its just that the rest of the world has increased quicker, that and our steel production is highly automated so few people actually work in the steel industry.
My Best wishes to the colonies.
Colonies!? Triggered!
Yes, but it doesn't make all the drills, chucks, tools, cutlery, etc. that it was once famous for. Well known brands like Spear & Jackson, Tyzack, Eclipse, Joseph Marples, Record, Presto, Viners, etc. may still be extant, but they're owned by non-Sheffield based (mostly non-UK) firms, with most or all of their stuff being made elsewhere.
Yes, that is completely true. In fact Sheffield makes very little of the conventional steels. Mostly they make the exotic steels. Mostly the high price but low volume metals. It is a shame there isn't the same volume but its difficult to compete with heavily subsided yet lower quality metals coming out of countries like china.
Footprint tools are owned by locals. Still making great tools
+Harvey Smith Yes, they went into voluntary liquidation in 2009 due to the recession, but have since reformed and are back making the famous 'footprints' aka pipe wrenches. I was so amazed to see they were still extant, I bought a pair recently to fill the gap between my rather weedy water pump pliers and the full overkill 14" Stillsons.
My dad had that drill, and a good number of the accessories. We used it well into the 80's. One August afternoon I was using it barefoot and got a real jolt!
The orientation of the helical gear makes perfect sense. It's only under load while drilling, and while drilling, there's plenty of force on the chuck to counteract the forward thrust from the helical gear
I guess that's right, when it's not under load the only forward force on the gear is at most a fraction of the force resisting its rotation due to friction.
The top screw is the variable speed rofl
haha. the original Variac. jk
+raptor 450 original variac is your body! wear dem rubber boots boys
Grant Thompson has a trademark on that already :P
I have no idea how I stumbled upon this channel but holy Jebus I have struck fresh Yukon gold!!!! This is amazing!!!!
I have the Black and Decker alloy drill shown at 2:18. My Dad bought it new in 1950 something, and "paid a lot of money for it". When he gave it to me, one of the brushes was bad, so I took it down to the Black and Decker office in town, and they were all amazed. The old guy there hadn't seen on in years. Anyway, long story short, they managed to find me a single set of brushes in South Africa, and they shipped them out to me. This was back in the 90s. They said at the time, that it was the last set of brushes for the drill they could find, and it was unlikely another set could be obtained.
So it hangs in my technology museum, in running condition, with the last new set of brushes in the world, in it. :) Oh - mine is 240 volt - of course.
The drill came with many attachments too. I distinctly remember a circular saw attachment, a drill press, and a geared buffing attachment, and there may have been others, too, but I don't recall. The drill press is still there too, and it worked amazingly well last time I used it - certainly all you'd ever need if you only drilled wood, and light metal. Great memories.
Edit - Oh, I also remember that the circular saw attachment was very good. In fact, it was so good, that for many years, the drill was permanently attached to the saw, because it had a small blade, and Dad preferred it to his new 9" circ saw, which he reserved for heavy cutting only. It was very lightweight - all alloy, and it had a really nicely angled and nice long dust vent which worked a treat, and it was super easy to use, and see where you were cutting. It was the circular saw on which Dad taught me. Great memories.
We lost a wonderful 27 year old kid from Poland to one of those old, solid metal drills that developed a ground fault. He was electrocuted trying to drill a hole for a rivet on a section of gutter sitting on the ground. If he had used a GFCI and/or a double insulated drill he would still be alive today. May the Good Lord rest his soul.
How does that happen? I've lost count of how many times I've been zapped with 120VAC. Even from right hand to left hand.
@@jackofmanytrades4396 poland is 250v.
@@Gigachad-mc5qz Because the drill was manufactured long before modern safety features were mandated by the government.
So add a knob to that top rear case screw and, presto, you,ve got a variable speed drill.
Reminds me of the Milwaukee Hole Shooter I inherited with the house I bought 23 years ago. The drill is probably as old or older than I am (50+). All metal casing, riveted metal plate with serial, model#, etc. Been using it for all sorts of stuff, mainly wire-wheel for cleaning crusty stuff. Torquey little beotch. Major clicky-click switch. No pansy variable speed or reverse either. You got one speed and that's full balls forward. Hold on tight if you got that trigger lock on...
Seemed to be getting a little hot and tired lately, plus the cord was perilously close to allowing the pixies to run astray (I prefer NOT to be the ground), so I did a teardown, clean, lube and rebuild. Bearings were still good, no bushings here. Balls in the front, balls in the rear. New chuck, new cord, cleaned out half a century of schmoo and she's off to the races again. Runs way smoother, quieter and far cooler now. Good for another 50 years.
I love that old shit.
Keep yer drill on the mice.
Full load speed is 0
hi got that too
That was witty. I laugh.
One of my old toolmaker buddies used to turn down all of the shanks on his drill bits to a 1/4 inch so he could use them in his drill from 1970 with a 1/4 inch chuck.
ave, man! thanks for that major shout out!!! you rock!
sure, always:) will you be at maker faire new york by any chance?
too bad! would have loved to buy you a beer :)
In8n,%799999>9(?))50
0ö0p0
The rear motor bushing key notch was not aligned properly with the housing and the washer was on the wrong side, DUH, and the felts are to hold oil for the sintered bearings to soak up over the years...
forward axial thrust from some of the motor work is correct - it provides some opposing force to your hands and arms pushing the drill into the workpiece. Meaning your bearings may last longer (being in a semi balanced state)
@snocrash - that's kinda what i was thinking, seems like it would provide a degree of balance under load which seems imo preferential to Ave's suggestion that you could minimize the number of surfaces under wear. Maybe six of one? @Tennesseema20 - I think you might wanna recheck that cause it looks to me like he's spinning it the right way.
Tennesseeman20 you'll need to have another look carefully - the helical gear (i.e., chuck) is being forced towards the workpiece by the torque of the motor
Tennesseeman20 This link will dispel any confidence you have. imgur dot com/a/Zwtwj ,Pink represents the rotational direction of the drill. Orange is the tangential normal force contacting from the primary helical gear. Green represents the vector (and direction) of thrust force.
I did think about it :-) at the time I first commented. Force is applied on each tooth on the large gear - some of which forces the large gear forward out towards the workpiece. That's clearly shown in the diagram (you can visualise it as tooth wanting to slide forward and out of the drill). No engineer or text book is going to have a design for something like this causing the chuck to retract back into the body. It's the way we've been doing it for over a hundred years for these types of gears.
That is exactly what I was thinking. That's why the bushings are in such great shape. The bearings have load in only the direction that they are designed. Part of the reason that you wouldn't want to use a spur cut is that it will put non-parallel force on the bushings and will oval them out. With helical gears, a lot more of the force is in line with the bushings allowing them to work the way they were intended.
its reverse stun gun,,, id make a good headlight bucket on a bike,
I've got one of those. Came with the house, along with a few other kick-ass power tools from the '50s (a circular saw, a jigsaw, and a sheet palm sander), that my wife and I bought about 5 years ago. After all these years (60+), they still work like new.
I just got a 1967 south bend model B lathe as a graduation present!! #1,300 on craigslist with dozens of brazed carbide tools and all the attachments you could imagine!
I have one of those drills, I had gotten shocked from it because the grounding pin on the power cord was missing. I took it apart, and replaced the cord. For one, it is not cordless, and that old drill is no match for a cordless impact model. The only areas of the newer drill that are plastic, are the parts that can be plastic and not effect the durability, and longevity of the drill. The biggest problem with cordless drills was almost solved when they started to utilize the same battery mount . Makita had maintained the same battery mount for a while. All those old cordless drills that only became useless when the battery technology was old, and once the battery became useless, the cost of getting another battery was almost the cost of getting a new drill with two batteries and a new charger. I have various Makita drills, all bought years apart, but they all use the same battery technology, so I have a set of batteries of various capacities, but the same voltage, and i can use them on any of my Makita drills. That includes hammer drills, and impact drills, which all fall back to being a standard drill. One thing more, is that the cordless drills have a clutch, so I can limit the amount of torque in the twist, or give it the full power. It is enough power to break a bolt, if that is what is being done. Try putting up hurricane panels with an old drill like that.
hey ave, I have one of them their drills in a half inch chuck. I has to weigh fifty pounds. I was drilling concrete with it about three years ago and because of the crazy on off switch for a trigger it done picked me up and slammed me into the wall when the bit grabbed goodntight. it has an all metal case and a big ass second handle off the side so when it bites it isn't supposed to break your arm. which is actually the reason I have it. the old timer gave it to me because it snapped his wrist. great vijeyo keep up the good work..
Yea I got one like in the vid, I got it from my grandpa...I still use it, I wish it would go in reverse but oh well....darn things a brick shithouse that will prolly last another 75 years
I use a half inch Sioux at work and that thing scares the shit out of me. Even drilling through 1/4" extruded aluminum it wants to take a part of you with it.
+MrTheHillfolk I have an old black and decker that's the same way! And I have an extra one that I can use for spare parts of I ever need it , just no reverse💀
+smallmechanic
Yea I'm sure my grandpa had it apart before ,the cord was probably replaced in the mid 80s sometime 😂
I like using it, it calms my nerves...
who wants to go backwards anyways? Lol always move forward 😁
+MrTheHillfolk could you not use reverse the polarity for reverse?
Reminds me of helping my Dad install aluminum doors and windows in Hamilton Ontario in the 1960's! I used to use that kind of drill to bore holes in the window frames and the old man used a Yankee screwdriver to install the windows up on the second and third floor up a wobbly wood extension ladder. Oh, the fun we had! Fridays we go for fish and chips at the Connaught Fish and Chip shop!
That gear pushes the chuck out like you say, but the operator pushes it back in when they push the drill bit into the work. ;)
The gears are cut to preload the shaft forward and the pressure from the workpiece pushing back on the drill bit will counteract it. It's likely not a balanced equation, but it would help reduce wear on the rear thrust surface. If you reverse the helix of the gear teeth, you are preloading the rear thrust surface which will have to take the additional workpiece pressure as well.
I have one of these, it shocked me so now it hangs on the shed wall collecting dust.
***** Au standard plug can't go in the wrong way, will have to pull it down one day and see what's wrong. Someone may have been fiddling prior It didn't tickle that's for sure :P
My dad worked for Stanley in the 60s (in Sheffield) and had a Stanley-Bridges drill that came with all sorts of attachments - bench grinder, circular saw, combined lathe/pillar drill, even an air compressor/spray gun.
My dad had a drill from the forty's made by Skill....all metal construction...my brother has it now and still uses it to this day
Gotta love these old techs. A friend of mine has a Soviet era workshop with some lathes&milling machines from 50's/60's. It's fun working there.
24:10, Man says to son: "Now you see son, the secret is to keep the Chesterfield at LEAST two feet from the paint. Wouldn't want to burn the house down!"
I have the same model of drill! The slot in the bronze bushing for the rear of the armature needs to be lined up with the case, got me a few times too. Mine had a rough go, the cord was completely rotten when I acquired it and I ended up burning out the field windings.
Maybe they had it push the chuck forward so when you're pushing on it you're pushing the chuck back and it's not really wearing on anything.
I had the same thought.
I had a Record vice that broke the first time I used it. One jaw broke and since it was the one that travels I looked at the price of a new one. I paid about $125. or so for the vise and a new jaw was $200. smackers.
Oh, by the way, the salesman told me they' had a great warranty but when it crapped out he declined to honour said warranty. The Tool Store has not seen a shinplaster from me since then.
My grandfather had a 1/4" drill that looked like that. Skill brand if memory serves. I think I still have drill bits larger than quarter inch with the shaft cut down so I could use them in the quarter inch drill.
When cars had generators that were easy to rebuild they had bushings like that. Super easy to replace and all we ever did to impregnate them with oil was to stand it on a thumb, fill with motor oil and with the social finger squeeze for a while. It worked.
Anyhoo, another gooder. TY
you had me at hedge trimmers.
nutter gotta find a way to trim your bushy pachina
Looking for a new tool to use on frankenlawn
You can emphasize the cheese factor of these old but great tools, but, I have used and abused that very same model drill since the late 60's. I paid $5.00 for it at a yard sale, used of coarse. It drilled holes, it spun a a rock to sharpen blades, it turned many things it was NEVER designed to. It even was used as an engine starter when the wind up crank on the old Tecumseh 5 hp push mower decided to fly apart. A broken 3/8 extension was ground down with a rock being spun by the drill to 1/4, then a 3/4 socket to adapt it to the flywheel bolt, and voila, an electric mower starter was born. It smoked, it smelled, but it still worked.
lubricious
1. offensively displaying or intended to arouse sexual desire.
"he probed the ladies for every lubricious detail of their interactions"
2. smooth and slippery with oil or a similar substance.
Lol I was wondering if that was a real word or part of his proprietary slang. Might have to start using that one
Your knowledge of Physics, Electronic Engineering, and Properties of materials as well as Mechanical Engineering is second to none. Your sense of humour is great. Keep up the reviews the world needs to know the real facts about these products.
I have one of those in my garage. Still use it too!
many many years ago and far far away I, as a kid, used similar drill motors to beyond their capacity with stepped drill bits. Heat became the measuring stick by which I knew when to stop (had to stop cause it was too damned hot to hold). Reversible? Lets get serious!! I keep one old unit as a reminder and my Dad's image alive. Today, we have a much easier life where quality tools make up for craftsmanship of old. Do a review on an old hand crank unit.....that was reversible, variable speed, keyless chuck and a s.o.b. to use. enjoy you videos , thanks for taking the time to share.
"That was back in the glory days of popular mechanics too, now it's just commercials and--...WANK." I laughed, and I could not agree more. /:-D
My grandfather had one of those and a Black and Decker that was very similar. Took me right back to kidhood when you got it going full speed.
They did have Buna-N o-rings in the fifties. GM used Buna-N o-rings to seal the water jackets on their early locomotive engines back in the 40's. I guess they just used felt shock absorbers because they wanted to.
Them o-rings where probably expensive-er back then, having just been invented, wheras felt was cheep and simple.
But they wanted a drill that would fit in your hand!
+Justin Bell Yeah, but they only worked on like 6 volts and were expensive as hell!
I have this drill, recently bought a house in the uk and it had one of these in the shed, not sure I dare try plugging in as the power cord has been battered a few times. Nice to see theirs a few out there still
I thought the felt plugs were there to hold some oil? Not for shock absorption.
They are indeed to hold oil for the sintered bearings. No idea where 'shock absorption' came from.
I've got an old 4" circular saw attachment for a Cummins electric drill and the drill it goes to. I've tried the saw, it technically cut wood, but I wouldn't want to have to do a lot of cutting with it.
Heh. Izzy Swan is still interested in reviving that "one drill to power a workshop" idea.
Have one just like it bought at a garage sale for $3.00 and it works great. Used it on a drill powered water pump and locked it on for an hour on a hot summer day with no problems. After seeing your video will plan on taking it apart to clean and re-grease. Love all your videos and your shop smarts.
300 pages!? Shit, we'd be lucky to get 30 pages these days... half them would be ads.
I have one like this made by the Australian company SHER, I also have the attachments for making it a 5" circular saw and a drum sander. Still in their boxes!
Holy shit I thought I was the only one who liked bigclivedotcom
I inherited my Dad's Black and Decker 1/4 inch drill from the early 50's and it looks very similar to that one. All aluminum and built like a locomotive!
Holy crap, my grandpa used to have a Soviet clone of this drill!
A "NO Skill" comrade?
I still occasionally use our old Sears and Roebuck metal 110v drill. If my memory is right Dad bought it back around 1958. It is bigger than this one you have though.
Enjoying this video from Sheffield!
Sheffield crew checking in! Weirdly I'm not one for any kind of national patriotism but I always go all warm and fuzzy inside whenever random people around the world reference our city. I'm certain I saw a "Made in Sheffield" on the side of a vice in one of AvE's older videos too...
I love the old tools. They look great hung on the wall in my garage. They work, but the newer ones just feel better.
My father has one of this! xD
This was truly a master class in double entendre and old time curmudgeonry.
The back looks like one of those old school microphone
Been about 12 years now. but I've seen the full set before. old timer had it in his work shop. guy had some great stories. he was a retired machinists.
hahaha "armchair quarterback, from the future!"
lold very hard at this.
I just got a south bend lathe for patching a hole in someone's roof, picked a porter cable circular saw up for $15 the entire thing is metal its incredible and powerful, trips breakers before the blade stops
AvE, how do you figure 1959 was 75 years ago?
Beatiful drill! i have a Black & Decker, about the same size, I cleaned it and it works well. But it needs a new bushing for the shaft.
Do you have a video talking about your education/training? You know a lot of stuff about a lot of stuff and I'm curious if you learned it through training, or through life experience or maybe both.
Does it sound like he learned any of this in school?
I believe he is a millwright.
BigBadgers2001 how many fingers can you take?
+AvE I made those magnesium crank shafts for Milwaukee. That crank shaft is for a weed waker. I die cast more then just crank shafts. Oil tankers ect. oh and the Foundry is PACE.
these newer tools look like fucking water guns
Halways through 2019, still plenty of steel products being made in Sheffield. What is surprising is that so much of it is ordinary workhorse industry items; Butchers knives, commercial kitchen equipment, razor blades, carpentry items, stanley knives (boxcutters/carpet knives). Its satisfying that Sheffield made knives are still the most affordable and reliable choice for butchers and chefs.
you just aboot have 50 million views. That has to be at least 80 million in Canadian views.
they cut the gear drive that way to act against the push pressure during drilling, which easily overcomes the forward force of the gear cut.
You can beat the shit out of someone with this unlike the cheap new ones
I used drills like that in school! I loved the arcy-sparky shooting out the cooling vents. I remember our shop teacher showing us how to make brushes from batteries in order to keep the drill going in case it conked out mid-project.
"rhodesian reach around" ? LOL
I have one of those and I still use it! I got it from my great grandad. He was a test pilot for the US airforce who was also stationed in Taiwan. They made a documentary on him. Pretty cool.
Black and decker pecker reker
My grandfather actually has that Black and Decker drill from that comparison. It's nice little machine and still rips good as new.
FOCUS YOU FACK!!
South Bend lathes are crazy solid. I have a 1937 south bend heavy 9 that still turns within 5 ten thousands of an inch.
rep my city, booyah!!
Still, condolences.
I've used that exact drill. Needed one about 15 years ago at my grandmother's place. Was the only drill she had laying around buried in a closet. I remember it being awkward as Hell to handle, and it looked like a Tesla coil going at full tilt through the vents.
Anyone care to tell me what BOLTR means?
Bored Of Lame Tool Reviews
Babes Only Love Thick Rotorooters
I thought it was in reference to IKEA and the first run of reviews and teardowns of parts from the Big Shitty. "Boltr" sounds like an IKEA tool product :P
***** Big Obelisks Loosen Tight Recepticles
Butt Oily Leaky Travestite Rectum.
We've got a pawn / junk shop here in South Wales and I've had some really good tools from there obviously hot sold for drug money . So they sell them on for a fraction of what they are worth and by watching this channel I can take them apart clean them and Change the brushes . thank you 👍
I had one that I took a-part. I think some brush sprung free never to be seen again. When it was running it smelled deliciously of ozone and sparked probably more than it should.
Great seeing this piece of nostalgia. I happen to own a USA made RAM 1/4" drill that looks just like this one. It is still my "go to" drill for tight quarters. I love your video's. Keep up the god work.
Gary from North West Arkansas, 73 year old home shop machinist.
*_SKIL_* made a great old drill in the fifties which I still have. Great memories !!
Ave you need to do a video on how drills or metal tools can shock or even kill people! I have loads of these drills, jig saws, and circ saws that have a metal casing but have been warned to never use them because they have killed
We had one of these drills on the farm in Illinois, I chucked a bolt into it with a socket attached and used it to start the Wheelhorse lawn tractor. Seems it burnt out one winter trying to start the tractor to move snow. Poor old thing.
1 idea for helping determine what kind of grease thickener you're dealing with (clay vs lithium-based vs calcum-based vs etcetc) would be to set up a quick drop test. Take cup with hole in center of the bottom. Pack it with the grease. Heat it up and measure the temperature it falls through at.
ASTM D566 is the standard method. NGLI grade will impact it some - but for the most part the same thickener will fail at around the same temp regardless of grade.
Standard Lithium = ~177-204C
Standard Calcium = ~96-104
Standard Aluminum = ~110C
caclium/aluminum Complex = ~260C
Polyurea (common in wet low-load applications) = ~243C
ORganic Clay = ~260
Lithium Complex = ~312C
Calcium Sulfonate (the tits for high temp) = ~316+C
The most common greases right now are lithium complex and calcium sulfonate - but It is very possible that old-school drill has some clay/benonite thickener
Keep up the fun videos!
If you want to build out a bit of a "data base" -- you can simply google a grease name followed by tds or pdf and you can usually grab the spec sheet real quick, which will usually list the drop point.
the chuck shaft pushes forward so that when you are pushing on it its not adding your feed pressure to the pressure from the gearing, they counteract eatch other giving you less total force on any individual point
I have one of the sunbeam drill seen at 2:34, it's been clunking around in my garage as long as I can remember. I think it may have been my grandfathers. It still works perfectly. They just don't make 'em like they used to.
Bushings were keyed into the housing to not spin, and the one on the back of the motor rotor was off it's post.
The gear helix direction reduces the load on the thrust bearing by counteracting some of the axial force applied when drilling.
Thanks,
John
Gotta love safety squinting, yet keeping your eyes peeled at the same time.
I have an old Bosch handheld drill which I inherited from my grandfather. Circa 1960's. All Aluminium housing, 2 speed gearbox, has been used all of his working days to stir grout and the likes for masonry. The chuck needs to be replaced or refurbished, but the drill itself will start and run for hours, even break a wrist while doing so. I have had 1/2 inch drills in it and it is freakishly strong. It will outlast me and the end of the world.
I've got an old Craftsman 1/2" drill that is a sister to the old Milwaukee. Took it apart for a re greasing since it sprung a leak of old grease. Built to run slow but could twist your arm like a wet noodle, drilled a 4 inch hole with it and one of those adjustable auger bits and it didn't even flinch.
My dad has an old B&D that is a little smaller than that. I once drilled 36 holes in concrete with it. It's a tough little drill.
I had one of those fury 1/4 '' drills , used it forever !! I think those felt inserts are oil pads to lube the bushings !!
I have a similar canadian-made drill from the '60s. Thing has more torque than any other hand drill I've used, and I still use it routinely.
I disassembled a super old drill I grabbed from a junk shop and the trigger was a spring-loaded mechanism that actuated an actual toggle switch. Blew my mind lol
i have one of these. father in law picked it up at a garage sale one day. doesn't work but I know nothing about this sort of thing. but to see all the neat stuff you could power with it was cool. thanks.