This is your best type of videos, take stuff apart, tell us what the bits do, tell us what the codes mean. Nice job. Plus I dig the "talking hook" format.
The meter you got was most likely a reject & "reworked". The trace and pad under the terminal are broken, which is why you can't read Ohms or continuity. The other tell-tale sign is the serial number which was wrinkled and stuck in the wrong place. Solder a wire from the terminal to the PCB trace and it will probably work OK. The superglue won't hold it, clean it off and use a good two part epoxy and it will last.
Rest assured, multimeters that are used on aircraft for work that require any measurements have to be calibrated and tagged regularly. They'll let you use a cheapo for checking continuity or for the existence of voltage. The second you start needing to measure anything, you have to head to the tool room to get the calibrated multimeter with stamp on it.
my dad is right handed....but cant close his left eye for shooting. so he shoots a right handed gun (because try to find a left-y with out ordering it) off his left shoulder. but he is a damn good shot....so if it works, isnt not stupid....just looks awkward.
The tab was already loose at 7:39 before it broke. The corner next to the V in V_INPUT lifts up on the last tap when it was tapped. There is trace from the tab to R9 that is broken. Fix the connection to R9 and the meter will probably be ready for probing the pixies again. If they give their consent.
I've had a Uni-T UT210D baby version of that for going on five years now. It was less than $50 and it's been a little champ of a meter, recommended by Big Clive. He was right about it. It's made well, batteries last, and it does everything including capacitance and AC/DC current as well as millivolts. A whole lot packed into a little case the size of a Mickey-D's breakfast burrito, but without the heartburn.
Dear Mr. AvE, My name is Stanley Horowitz, one of the authors of "The Art of Electronics", the first Electronics text that minimized theory in favor of practicality. My publisher has asked me about a new series, which would be written by you, with the working title, "Art of Chooch", the idea being that the text would eliminate ALL theory and replace it with cursing. What think you?
With your superglue job, maybe you didn't notice there's a trace on the right side of the solder pad that broke when you peeled up the pad: superglue ain't gonna fix that, if it weren't broken before, it is now! But I wonder: maybe that pad and trace were broken before you banged 'em? Either from the factory, or from some gorilla jamming the leads into the sockets too hard? It sure peeled up real easy, and it was a little wiggly when you touched it earlier.
AvE, we wait for confirmation. Get Your beer with You, go to the shop and check it. I would say that if all the measurement modes are fucked it is most likely the contact.
Just figured out you're actually saying Hall Effect All this wasted time googling holofact sensor to no avail, when I already know what the Hall effect is.
THIS IS MORE LIKE IT!!! This is the kind of video that made you famous and we love watching! In depth review with intelligent commentary! Thanks! Haven't even watched the whole thing yet. Saving the rest for later! : )
Brethren I want to express a hearty thank you for your channel ! Your down to earth demeanor on high tech stuff makes for a inviting class room . I'm a tour rigger in the entertainment industry and a lot of your subject matter is a big help to me. The focus education subject matter for today's fresh crop of riggers is basically centered around mathematics and proper rigging techniques as it should be but the kids coming up haven't a inkling of what to do with the technology they work with nor do they show a interest in fixing anything when it breaks . It's a shame because when I started 30 yrs ago it was a necessity and it was a advantage that carried over with your reputation. I tell a lot of these kids to watch your vids and damned if they don't come back with a better attitude and express a desire to expand upon their knowledge. I'm wondering if you've ever messed around with motorized chain hoists? 1 tons,half tons,quarter tons? Anyways thanks again, your channel is better than any TV show for sure .Keep your propeller in the water!
I'm an aspiring engineer, and a bit of a tinkerer, I know how to wrangle pixies at a level slightly higher than a blind apprentice, and I've always known to use caps, but never why, or how they worked. For the most part when searching the ol' hive mind I've left with more questions than answers about exactly why the caps get the pixies to line up so nicely for them. Thanks for the explanation on this and so many other topics for the common (young) man!
The circuit boards are all tested and a power up test is done at the end of assembly. Functional testing is only done on a sample basis, though. Like I said, when the company I worked for used to sell them, we did have quite a lot of bounces (mostly cheapy multimeters), but they did replace them under warranty without much hassle. I guess in places like Canada this is a little harder to do than in tiny little Belgium, but still.
One tip for ambient temp with multimeters, if it can measure temperature with a thermocouple, you can also measure ambient by shorting the pos and neg test leads in temp mode.
I've dealt with both UL and ETL for field certifying electrical switch gear and walk-in coolers/freezers. Different bunch of people from each company for each project, and both times ETL was far more eager to please whereas UL was pulling teeth just to get a hold of someone a week later who might be able to work up a quote the following month. Granted that's for field-inspecting, not product testing and listing. Long of the short of it, I think ETL is just easier to deal with
I enjoy taking things apart too, the only problem is, that I reassemble them more efficiently than the manufacturer. I usually have parts left over... great vid ..
You can add baking soda to superglue and it sets almost instantly, plus it forms a awesome plastic that is also machinable, but burns the eye parts. Also works good for field dressing stab wounds and or stab holes from the test leads that slip.
In order to get better accuaracy when measuring amps,whind the wire a couple of turns around the clamp and then divide the reading by the number of turns used
@AvE , love your videos, PTC' positive temperature coefficient, used as resettable fuses ( or self regulating heaters) rapid change in resistance (almost step function)
I'm kinda interested of that debug port... could it be some form of ftdi port you could use to hack your own datalogger in with? I wonder if it spits out what's on the display thru that port since it would make sence out of a calibration standpoint to be able to do something like that in the factory.
What you were describing was a wet tantalum capacitor which usually looks like a normal electrolytic capacitor and is a very different beast to the ones on the board which use a solid manganese dioxide electrolyte.
The two PTC's at the bottom of the board is a part of the input protection. When you push too many pixies through them at once they heat up and rise in resistance, cutting off the flow of pixies :D - The NTC in the top is indeed for temperature compensation of the hall-sensor which apparently is temperature affected, too.
I guess it is the QC that separates the boys from the men. All manufacturing is going to have a unit failure rate, but letting those runts out the door is what marks a Uni-T. You may want to make mention of Binary vs Gray-coded rotary selectors in this sort of video. Wikipedia describes them in the rotary encoder article, pretty neat stuff, worth sharing with the apprentices.
My work supplied me with the smaller non-OLED version of this meter. Worked for about 6 months without an issue and then, this exact same issue developed out of the blue one day! Very interesting that a different model has the same problem...
This might be interesting to some: the Arduino IDE uses gcc as the compiler backend, which is not too surprising since Atmel seems to like gcc and all of the core Arduino code is C (except the IDE, which is Java.) Adapting alternate toolchains (like vim/gcc :D or Netbeans or Eclipse and even Codewarrior or VistualStudio) is not only possible but it's fairly easy. Check your favorite IDE's settings (sometimes in "project settings" or "build settings") for the actual compile command and arguments.
Hard to tell from 480p (can't be arsed to switch to HD just to squint at parts) but impression was the terminal is a through hole part. Base is only for mechanical.
Yup, saw it moving. The way those are attached is asking for that to happen though. I like the why the fluke is with the through hole leg screwed into the back side of the terminal. its far enough from the board to allow a little flex without popping the seal.
it still had connection, it had some through holes on the top. but my bet is they let it get too hot on the board as they soldered and it may of damaged some parts in it messing it up. sometimes those chips can be finicky.
The hobby market is tiny compared to the pro manufacturers using tons of ARM chips in devices so it's very low priority to create something like an Arduino compatible environment for hobbyist.
Also, I have used an older version of the Silabs IDE. It is easy to install and easy to use and doesn't require you to jump through a bunch of hoops. As a result, Silabs doesn't lose much market due to tools issues.
I used the Transcript function on TH-cam to look up a word that you mentioned. I let it play until the end. It stated "Keep Your Decking Advice". :-) I'm not a woodworker, do not have any.
Great Review! Come to think of it, every time I got shocked on the construction site was either by human error (some brain fart switched on despite my "electrician only Switches here!!!" sign), or because I had only very Little space to work in and was not allowed to Switch off.
Can you recommend a good set of picks like the one you're using as a pointer? A set that don't end up sitting and spinning or bending every damn time you need to use one?
I have always wondered what makes these meters work. I bought the Ames CM600 from Harbor Freight six months ago, and it works great. I could never figure why the Ames is one third the price of Klein CM with the same features. It would be very informative to see a side by side comparison between similar meters from different manufacturers.
Not sure if already covered by other comments, but another reason for using multiple resistors in a line (aside from creepage distance) is that each resistor can have a lower breakdown voltage. A single resistor designed to withstand 1 kV can be replaced by five rated at 200 V each -- and those are cheaper.
You are seriously awesome. Just started watching your channel and have gone through a ton of the videos. Two questions. Do you have any more "Focus you FACK" shirts? I've gotta have one! And also, do you have a Facebook "page" or website to follow as well? Thanks in advance. Keep your tick on something nice
You're actually supposed to allign and centre the wire with the arrovs or other markings in the current clamp to get the correct current measure. It may give you a more accurate reading at the low end of the scale. :)
so what would you recommend for a "cheaper" multimeter for measuring ac/dc current without breaking the bank on a fluke or one of those professional expensive types
I have few uni-t dmms. they seem to be fouling up the dial. both of mine had dial issues. had to put a spacer on one so the contacts work properly, and another had to bend the contacts because they weren't contacting properly.
I'm convinced you are a certified mad scientist. Lol! I just purchased one of these on ebay for $70 cdn just as a backup to my main clamp meter. Do you have any info on the milwaukee clamp meters? I have a 2237-20 and I'm hearing it's engineered or designed by Fluke.
I have one or at least a very similar, gotta say it's a handy little meter although I'm not expecting anything too precise. The voltage detector on the tip saved my bacon once when I found out that my metal sink/countertop was live because my water heater leaked on the bottom which is where it's connectors were
The jack terminal wobbled when you first touched it and after you lifted the pad with the scotch brite I'm confident to say that the trace/track for the terminal has been split.. If you scratch off the solder resist for the trace and resolder my bets are it would work.
Reminded me. Could you compare the decibel meter to an Iphone android app. Since you posted how long it takes o damage your hearing,I but the muffs,or plugs in,but would be good to measure.
That was a good geek moment and enjoyable video.....Always good content although must say some of the newer videos sound less articulate especially after some booze haha dont we all..keep it up
This vid reminds me -Discovered very quickly that supergluing any components comes after any soldering not before- It can creep quite rapidly over surfaces and you get a highly insulating (and potentially invisible) sheet of hard acrylic over any metal !(especially bronze or copper, it seems)
I bought a harbor crap K Type temp meter a few years ago and it reads the same as a Fluke, But I do not rely on it when setting super heat. I believe you have said "you get what you pay for" and that is so true. But for $100+ I would ship back. Great Video's, many who view have never been in a industrial setting, and are unaware of danger of Amperage.
back when I fixed aircraft we didn't have multimeters. Simply because they aren't approved for testing avionics systems, thank the faa for that. instead since there is two of everything on the aircraft, it was all swaptronics.
Did you ever work out how to set the meter into manual mode when trying to measure current? The meter seems to take too long to auto-range between the 0-60A and 60-600A ranges.
bought the same meter on amazon. I'm eletrial tech by trade. I bought it because I needed a cap tester that none of my flukes had. its an ok meter for 40 bucks. small and a great beater to through in your bag and if some a-hole decides he needs it more then you then your not out to much. one thing I wish it had was a amp inrush setting. only issues I had with it was the leads that came withit sucked. overall happy. but it is what it is. not my goto meter but. the size is nice for a pocket
Damnit! He better have. Been in the back of my mind since he popped it loose. Maybe it was really a crap connection to begin with, and he just added the straw to that camel's back. Run a bodge wire, AvE!
AIR_WIRE. PTC's are usually used for circuit protection, when they pass too much current they get hot and start breaking the circuit and continue to keep the circuit mostly open until the fault is cleared. Not sure if that's what those green PTC's are being used for here though. What's really fun with the UNI-T clamp meters, like some other awesome clamp meters, is that they will do DC amps on the clamp. Clamp it on you car battery cable and give her a crank.
And the last thing: the "CE" mark is for the EU. European Conformity (in French, can't recall how it's spelled) -- a self declaration regime where the manufacturer is claiming that the product meets all relevant EU standards at time of manufacture (or possibly time of design, unsure on that). Nothing to do with China, but you'll see it on most Chinese products because they ship globally and the EU is a huge market.
I did a job mutilating dead tree carcasses at one of Intertek's testing facilities here in the big shitty. Gotta say I was pretty impressed. They brought us in to fix somebody else's fuckup, and they were kind enough to give us a tour of the place. They were testing mostly building materials, not consumer electronics. Seemed like some talented, passionate people doing important work. Results may vary by facility and products being tested though. On an interesting side note, they had a few aircraft engines used for high speed wind testing. Being a bit WW2 nut, I recognized them instantly as the Pratt and Whitney R2800 Double Wasp. Famous for powering the P47, Corsair, Wildcat and lots of other aircraft. Anyways, curiosity got the best of me and I had to find out where they came from. The employees didn't really seem to know much about them. After doing some research I was able to match the prop to the Canadair CL-215 water bomber. Which I assume were sold to the public after being retired. So not only a famous piece of engineering, they were also from a homegrown bird.
I read most of the comments below. Sorry if I missed anyone pointing this out but AVE seemed a little stumped on the NTC (NCT for all you dyslexics out there) thermistor's reason for being on the PCB. I don't know but those two PTC devices are part of the input protection circuitry (they work in conjunction with the Movistors). I hope this helps. Yours truly, MikeHunt.
Yes instead of dropping in resistance like ntc, the ptc shoots up in resistance. Clamps down the voltage from the inputs if you do stupid with the meetor.
I can definitely relate on wanting to use the IDE that you're familiar with. Why have to relearn something that is pretty close to what you already know. Though, I don't use an IDE with a compiler hardly ever anymore as I mostly program in scripted languages.
AvE, from the video ,when you broke the contact holder, its seem like the pad itself was also had a connection on pcb. I assume if u connect it back,it should work. Anyway,goodluck.
![ใจเสาะบนเกาะนาคี - อ๊ะอาย สกุณาพร เสียงวิหค [Official MV] | ค่ายเพลงเป็นหนึ่ง](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jbcmGQkfyOg/mqdefault.jpg)
"I'm going to start naming the components..." I half-expected "This one is Jeff, that's Bob..."
This is your best type of videos, take stuff apart, tell us what the bits do, tell us what the codes mean. Nice job. Plus I dig the "talking hook" format.
Yarr
so you like it when he drags out his curly poky bit?
John C jjc. J
John C .
The meter you got was most likely a reject & "reworked". The trace and pad under the terminal are broken, which is why you can't read Ohms or continuity. The other tell-tale sign is the serial number which was wrinkled and stuck in the wrong place. Solder a wire from the terminal to the PCB trace and it will probably work OK. The superglue won't hold it, clean it off and use a good two part epoxy and it will last.
Rest assured, multimeters that are used on aircraft for work that require any measurements have to be calibrated and tagged regularly. They'll let you use a cheapo for checking continuity or for the existence of voltage. The second you start needing to measure anything, you have to head to the tool room to get the calibrated multimeter with stamp on it.
I’m sure the ALWAYS do… just like the rest of us free thinking humans lol
"One day we will be in focus, today is not that day" *focus occurs*
I swear, that camera is sentient and just out to fuck with him xD
"Why fart and waste it, when you can belch and taste it?" -old Canadian proverb
unless youre buying specific tools, everything is made for right handed people. Guess what though, left handed people also have right hands.
my dad is right handed....but cant close his left eye for shooting.
so he shoots a right handed gun (because try to find a left-y with out ordering it) off his left shoulder.
but he is a damn good shot....so if it works, isnt not stupid....just looks awkward.
Speaking as a lefty, I rarely have issues with right hand tools/objects. When I do, a little while brain work solves it.
KILL RIGHTY!
+kain hall so long as it's not a semi auto with an inconveniently placed eject port!
+blitz krieg it's a clamp meter. You're not supposed to be using those input terminals at all, that's what standard multimeters are for.
The tab was already loose at 7:39 before it broke. The corner next to the V in V_INPUT lifts up on the last tap when it was tapped. There is trace from the tab to R9 that is broken. Fix the connection to R9 and the meter will probably be ready for probing the pixies again. If they give their consent.
it also has a trace that goes off to the right side of the pad. 2 traces came from that one f*ed up solder pad
I missed the second trace you are correct! Both require reconnection. Agreed!
I've had a Uni-T UT210D baby version of that for going on five years now. It was less than $50 and it's been a little champ of a meter, recommended by Big Clive. He was right about it. It's made well, batteries last, and it does everything including capacitance and AC/DC current as well as millivolts. A whole lot packed into a little case the size of a Mickey-D's breakfast burrito, but without the heartburn.
Dear Mr. AvE, My name is Stanley Horowitz, one of the authors of "The Art of Electronics", the first Electronics text that minimized theory in favor of practicality. My publisher has asked me about a new series, which would be written by you, with the working title, "Art of Chooch", the idea being that the text would eliminate ALL theory and replace it with cursing.
What think you?
lol!!!😂
I'd buy that. Leave copies randomly around Home Depot and the like :)
toysareforboys *Homeless Despot
How does this compare to GTC CM100 that is almost 4 times the price?
Alan Wilensky I saw EA for a second there, I was getting triggered.
With your superglue job, maybe you didn't notice there's a trace on the right side of the solder pad that broke when you peeled up the pad: superglue ain't gonna fix that, if it weren't broken before, it is now!
But I wonder: maybe that pad and trace were broken before you banged 'em? Either from the factory, or from some gorilla jamming the leads into the sockets too hard? It sure peeled up real easy, and it was a little wiggly when you touched it earlier.
I saw the same AvE go fix it. :D
I third
Yep, just what I came here to say. But I think it was broken before, because when he first touches it at 7:40, its already moving a little.
AvE, we wait for confirmation. Get Your beer with You, go to the shop and check it. I would say that if all the measurement modes are fucked it is most likely the contact.
At 7:41 it looks like it was already partially broken. Looked a bit wobbly when he poked it.
I like the effort you put into addressing the details in electronics and plastic constructs of the device. love your videos keep them coming!
Love the Willis brothers reference. I like that you go over what each component is and how it works.
Just figured out you're actually saying Hall Effect
All this wasted time googling holofact sensor to no avail, when I already know what the Hall effect is.
rofl
Try holyfuck sensor.
you have the same impediment/blessing I do
Listening to this channel helps me sleep at night. Keep up the great vids!
THIS IS MORE LIKE IT!!! This is the kind of video that made you famous and we love watching! In depth review with intelligent commentary! Thanks!
Haven't even watched the whole thing yet. Saving the rest for later! : )
found your videos recently and love em. just had surgery and you had me laughing a bit too much though...cheerd
Brethren I want to express a hearty thank you for your channel ! Your down to earth demeanor on high tech stuff makes for a inviting class room . I'm a tour rigger in the entertainment industry and a lot of your subject matter is a big help to me. The focus education subject matter for today's fresh crop of riggers is basically centered around mathematics and proper rigging techniques as it should be but the kids coming up haven't a inkling of what to do with the technology they work with nor do they show a interest in fixing anything when it breaks . It's a shame because when I started 30 yrs ago it was a necessity and it was a advantage that carried over with your reputation. I tell a lot of these kids to watch your vids and damned if they don't come back with a better attitude and express a desire to expand upon their knowledge.
I'm wondering if you've ever messed around with motorized chain hoists? 1 tons,half tons,quarter tons?
Anyways thanks again, your channel is better than any TV show for sure .Keep your propeller in the water!
I'm an aspiring engineer, and a bit of a tinkerer, I know how to wrangle pixies at a level slightly higher than a blind apprentice, and I've always known to use caps, but never why, or how they worked. For the most part when searching the ol' hive mind I've left with more questions than answers about exactly why the caps get the pixies to line up so nicely for them. Thanks for the explanation on this and so many other topics for the common (young) man!
Thanks for including part numbers. I don't have much use for them, but it's nice to know that I can if needed.
The circuit boards are all tested and a power up test is done at the end of assembly. Functional testing is only done on a sample basis, though. Like I said, when the company I worked for used to sell them, we did have quite a lot of bounces (mostly cheapy multimeters), but they did replace them under warranty without much hassle. I guess in places like Canada this is a little harder to do than in tiny little Belgium, but still.
I have no idea what you are talking about half the time but I absolutely love listening to you talk about it.
ah, made my day, came home to a long video =D thanks AVE, love your channel!
One tip for ambient temp with multimeters, if it can measure temperature with a thermocouple, you can also measure ambient by shorting the pos and neg test leads in temp mode.
Pro Tip: Watch at 2x speed. No drop in cognition and half the time. Love your videos AvE!
You'll miss out on the subtlety of life that way
"as you can clearly see" classic,thanks
@28.48
+mark rent focus you fack
"Why fart and waste it, when you can belch and taste it?"
"Chooch-Factor: 0, Mr. Zulu" - Best internet Quote of all times.
also compliments on the detailed breakdown of how electronic components work.
I've dealt with both UL and ETL for field certifying electrical switch gear and walk-in coolers/freezers. Different bunch of people from each company for each project, and both times ETL was far more eager to please whereas UL was pulling teeth just to get a hold of someone a week later who might be able to work up a quote the following month. Granted that's for field-inspecting, not product testing and listing. Long of the short of it, I think ETL is just easier to deal with
I enjoy taking things apart too, the only problem is, that I reassemble them more efficiently than the manufacturer.
I usually have parts left over... great vid ..
Im 14 and I freacking love your channel keep doing what your doing please!
"in layman's terms" with terms like pixies & chooch , can't get more layman than that. LOL
You can add baking soda to superglue and it sets almost instantly, plus it forms a awesome plastic that is also machinable, but burns the eye parts. Also works good for field dressing stab wounds and or stab holes from the test leads that slip.
In order to get better accuaracy when measuring amps,whind the wire a couple of turns around the clamp and then divide the reading by the number of turns used
28:43 "as you can CLEARLY see" hahaha
I never thought about it, but how well does CA glue work in letting the pixies flow? Maybe use conductive silver epoxy for repairing the solder pad?
@AvE , love your videos, PTC' positive temperature coefficient, used as resettable fuses ( or self regulating heaters) rapid change in resistance (almost step function)
I'm kinda interested of that debug port... could it be some form of ftdi port you could use to hack your own datalogger in with?
I wonder if it spits out what's on the display thru that port since it would make sence out of a calibration standpoint to be able to do something like that in the factory.
What you were describing was a wet tantalum capacitor which usually looks like a normal electrolytic capacitor and is a very different beast to the ones on the board which use a solid manganese dioxide electrolyte.
The two PTC's at the bottom of the board is a part of the input protection. When you push too many pixies through them at once they heat up and rise in resistance, cutting off the flow of pixies :D - The NTC in the top is indeed for temperature compensation of the hall-sensor which apparently is temperature affected, too.
I guess it is the QC that separates the boys from the men. All manufacturing is going to have a unit failure rate, but letting those runts out the door is what marks a Uni-T.
You may want to make mention of Binary vs Gray-coded rotary selectors in this sort of video. Wikipedia describes them in the rotary encoder article, pretty neat stuff, worth sharing with the apprentices.
My work supplied me with the smaller non-OLED version of this meter. Worked for about 6 months without an issue and then, this exact same issue developed out of the blue one day! Very interesting that a different model has the same problem...
wow the display is gorgeous
This might be interesting to some: the Arduino IDE uses gcc as the compiler backend, which is not too surprising since Atmel seems to like gcc and all of the core Arduino code is C (except the IDE, which is Java.) Adapting alternate toolchains (like vim/gcc :D or Netbeans or Eclipse and even Codewarrior or VistualStudio) is not only possible but it's fairly easy. Check your favorite IDE's settings (sometimes in "project settings" or "build settings") for the actual compile command and arguments.
Okay, you glued the terminal back to the PCB, but you didn’t solder it back to the trace it had been torn off. Ain’t gonna chooch.
Hard to tell from 480p (can't be arsed to switch to HD just to squint at parts) but impression was the terminal is a through hole part. Base is only for mechanical.
Yup, saw it moving. The way those are attached is asking for that to happen though. I like the why the fluke is with the through hole leg screwed into the back side of the terminal. its far enough from the board to allow a little flex without popping the seal.
it still had connection, it had some through holes on the top. but my bet is they let it get too hot on the board as they soldered and it may of damaged some parts in it messing it up. sometimes those chips can be finicky.
The hobby market is tiny compared to the pro manufacturers using tons of ARM chips in devices so it's very low priority to create something like an Arduino compatible environment for hobbyist.
Also, I have used an older version of the Silabs IDE. It is easy to install and easy to use and doesn't require you to jump through a bunch of hoops. As a result, Silabs doesn't lose much market due to tools issues.
"it's inferring the existence of angry pixies" I just lost it at after that love you AvE
I used the Transcript function on TH-cam to look up a word that you mentioned. I let it play until the end.
It stated "Keep Your Decking Advice". :-)
I'm not a woodworker, do not have any.
lol
Great Review! Come to think of it, every time I got shocked on the construction site was either by human error (some brain fart switched on despite my "electrician only Switches here!!!" sign), or because I had only very Little space to work in and was not allowed to Switch off.
Can you recommend a good set of picks like the one you're using as a pointer? A set that don't end up sitting and spinning or bending every damn time you need to use one?
I have always wondered what makes these meters work. I bought the Ames CM600 from Harbor Freight six months ago, and it works great. I could never figure why the Ames is one third the price of Klein CM with the same features. It would be very informative to see a side by side comparison between similar meters from different manufacturers.
At least they spelled TRUE right on yours.
I have one that reads TURE RMS.
10/10 would watch again.
I swear I hear John Goodman, Ricky from the Trailer Park Boys, and Karl Sagan in your voice in every video...shocking how perfect it is.
Not sure if already covered by other comments, but another reason for using multiple resistors in a line (aside from creepage distance) is that each resistor can have a lower breakdown voltage. A single resistor designed to withstand 1 kV can be replaced by five rated at 200 V each -- and those are cheaper.
You are seriously awesome. Just started watching your channel and have gone through a ton of the videos. Two questions. Do you have any more "Focus you FACK" shirts? I've gotta have one! And also, do you have a Facebook "page" or website to follow as well? Thanks in advance. Keep your tick on something nice
You're actually supposed to allign and centre the wire with the arrovs or other markings in the current clamp to get the correct current measure. It may give you a more accurate reading at the low end of the scale. :)
so what would you recommend for a "cheaper" multimeter for measuring ac/dc current without breaking the bank on a fluke or one of those professional expensive types
I have few uni-t dmms. they seem to be fouling up the dial. both of mine had dial issues. had to put a spacer on one so the contacts work properly, and another had to bend the contacts because they weren't contacting properly.
I'm convinced you are a certified mad scientist. Lol!
I just purchased one of these on ebay for $70 cdn just as a backup to my main clamp meter. Do you have any info on the milwaukee clamp meters? I have a 2237-20 and I'm hearing it's engineered or designed by Fluke.
I have one or at least a very similar, gotta say it's a handy little meter although I'm not expecting anything too precise. The voltage detector on the tip saved my bacon once when I found out that my metal sink/countertop was live because my water heater leaked on the bottom which is where it's connectors were
I got a 209A work great ,maybe you will anjoy this guy stuff great channel and did a good honest review on the 207A
That's the calmest reaction I've seen on this channel to an out of focus camera. @ about 22:55
Well I don't need one of those any how. Keep on keeping on.
I deadass watch these videos for his little sayings. The explanations are the bonus
"Here it sits in a trance, tried to fart and shit it's pants". I had to listen to that again I was dying
I gave you a thumbs up just for the willis brothers mention. "Give Me Forty Acres" rocks...thanks from the States...
The jack terminal wobbled when you first touched it and after you lifted the pad with the scotch brite I'm confident to say that the trace/track for the terminal has been split.. If you scratch off the solder resist for the trace and resolder my bets are it would work.
i recently bought myself a Klein multi meter .Curious of how it would stand up to your bench testing
Hi.will UNI-T measure Min/Max function during DC CURRENT or DC volt .If not what about Mastech 2115a/2109a or Holdpeak 570/870N.Thank u.
Reminded me. Could you compare the decibel meter to an Iphone android app. Since you posted how long it takes o damage your hearing,I but the muffs,or plugs in,but would be good to measure.
That was a really good description of capacitors. I was always told they simply stored voltage. How does that apply to start capacitors?
Add flux 😂
That was a good geek moment and enjoyable video.....Always good content although must say some of the newer videos sound less articulate especially after some booze haha dont we all..keep it up
why is there an add for the uni-t multimeter that was just ripped apart in more ways than one
Have you ever messed with a Tube type linier for a CB or ham radio or even a transistor type linier
This vid reminds me -Discovered very quickly that supergluing any components comes after any soldering not before- It can creep quite rapidly over surfaces and you get a highly insulating (and potentially invisible) sheet of hard acrylic over any metal !(especially bronze or copper, it seems)
I bought a harbor crap K Type temp meter a few years ago and it reads the same as a Fluke, But I do not rely on it when setting super heat. I believe you have said "you get what you pay for" and that is so true. But for $100+ I would ship back. Great Video's, many who view have never been in a industrial setting, and are unaware of danger of Amperage.
back when I fixed aircraft we didn't have multimeters. Simply because they aren't approved for testing avionics systems, thank the faa for that. instead since there is two of everything on the aircraft, it was all swaptronics.
Great video
Did you ever work out how to set the meter into manual mode when trying to measure current? The meter seems to take too long to auto-range between the 0-60A and 60-600A ranges.
I'd have really liked to see how accurate the equivalent Fluke meter was to the UNI-T during testing, but otherwise great video, very informative.
did you check battery voltage . my fluke 36 clamp wont zero without a fresh batt
How does a varistor work without Fuse ? Will it just short the Leads and turn some Energie in heat?
bought the same meter on amazon. I'm eletrial tech by trade. I bought it because I needed a cap tester that none of my flukes had. its an ok meter for 40 bucks. small and a great beater to through in your bag and if some a-hole decides he needs it more then you then your not out to much. one thing I wish it had was a amp inrush setting. only issues I had with it was the leads that came withit sucked. overall happy. but it is what it is. not my goto meter but. the size is nice for a pocket
Great video, thanks!
Did you repair the track from the connector that broke?
Yeah the thingy he glued was connected to a trace snaking off to the other side of the input.
I wonder if that pad was already partially broken. That broken track might well explain the non-chooching?
8:28 if it's not broken by him lifting the thingy up like that b4... it is now lol.
Damnit! He better have. Been in the back of my mind since he popped it loose. Maybe it was really a crap connection to begin with, and he just added the straw to that camel's back. Run a bodge wire, AvE!
It was, I saw it move before he lifted it up!!!
AIR_WIRE. PTC's are usually used for circuit protection, when they pass too much current they get hot and start breaking the circuit and continue to keep the circuit mostly open until the fault is cleared. Not sure if that's what those green PTC's are being used for here though. What's really fun with the UNI-T clamp meters, like some other awesome clamp meters, is that they will do DC amps on the clamp. Clamp it on you car battery cable and give her a crank.
Hey Chris! Hows the flashlight coming along?
I'm definitely with you on the ide. there are so many devices out there I just can't afford to use ; -(
And the last thing: the "CE" mark is for the EU. European Conformity (in French, can't recall how it's spelled) -- a self declaration regime where the manufacturer is claiming that the product meets all relevant EU standards at time of manufacture (or possibly time of design, unsure on that). Nothing to do with China, but you'll see it on most Chinese products because they ship globally and the EU is a huge market.
I did a job mutilating dead tree carcasses at one of Intertek's testing facilities here in the big shitty. Gotta say I was pretty impressed. They brought us in to fix somebody else's fuckup, and they were kind enough to give us a tour of the place. They were testing mostly building materials, not consumer electronics. Seemed like some talented, passionate people doing important work. Results may vary by facility and products being tested though.
On an interesting side note, they had a few aircraft engines used for high speed wind testing. Being a bit WW2 nut, I recognized them instantly as the Pratt and Whitney R2800 Double Wasp. Famous for powering the P47, Corsair, Wildcat and lots of other aircraft. Anyways, curiosity got the best of me and I had to find out where they came from. The employees didn't really seem to know much about them. After doing some research I was able to match the prop to the Canadair CL-215 water bomber. Which I assume were sold to the public after being retired. So not only a famous piece of engineering, they were also from a homegrown bird.
I read most of the comments below. Sorry if I missed anyone pointing this out but AVE seemed a little stumped on the NTC (NCT for all you dyslexics out there) thermistor's reason for being on the PCB. I don't know but those two PTC devices are part of the input protection circuitry (they work in conjunction with the Movistors). I hope this helps. Yours truly, MikeHunt.
oooooh so those silver capsule smd things are quartz clocks? That took a long time before i figured that out...
Yes instead of dropping in resistance like ntc, the ptc shoots up in resistance. Clamps down the voltage from the inputs if you do stupid with the meetor.
I can definitely relate on wanting to use the IDE that you're familiar with. Why have to relearn something that is pretty close to what you already know. Though, I don't use an IDE with a compiler hardly ever anymore as I mostly program in scripted languages.
"Inferring the existence of angry pixies"... love it, going to have to use that at work!
AvE, from the video ,when you broke the contact holder, its seem like the pad itself was also had a connection on pcb. I assume if u connect it back,it should work. Anyway,goodluck.
"Here it sits, in his trance, tries to fart, shits his pants"
-AvE
Yo AvE, how did you go about learning about electronics? Gargle?
Was the schmoo actually dielectric grease and not flux?