I've spent more than 65 years in boats, 30 of them as a full time professional captain and I have just recently retired. And now I stumble upon this guy! Absolutely the best website on working on boats I've ever encountered! Too bad I didn't discover it when I actually needed it but retired or not, boatless or not, I still enjoy watching these videos and I learn something of value every time. Great Job!
I just want to say thank you, I was recently given a 23 foot sailing boat that had been standing for 8 years and was in real bad shape, I didn´t know if it was worth saving but thanks to your videos I have learnt a lot and decided to give her a new lease of life, I have just put on my first topcoat on the sides and it looks pretty good for my first attempt. I am now waiting a few hours to apply a second coat then tomorrow a sand and final coat. Your knowledge is invaluable to a guy like me and I just wanted to acknowledge that. Well done mate!
Thanks to Andy I have learned Everything I need to wrap and seal my Squaredrop project. True. I may have gone overboard but any river crossing my vehicles can make my camper will make too. ( In Theory. LOL) I swear I've never hand sanded one project so much in my life! And now to Roll and Tip ! Thank You Andy! I know that doesn't pay the bills. Hopefully someday I can repay you. Your Greatly Appreciated
Got my Alexseal shipment this past week and spent the day putting up my plastic debris barrier. I'm using an old bass boat I bought to use as an experiment and can't wait to try this out! Thank you for getting the roll additive out so quickly. Will be posting results along the way on my fb page as well as my own TH-cam channel. Thanks again, and you're video library has helped me every step of the way.
Excellent timing! I haul my 47ft monohull out for bottom paint this Friday. My first time doing it on my own. Appreciate your videos a great deal. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Another recommendation for getting rid of loose hairs on rolls and brushes is to roll / brush along fine sandpaper (anywhere between 240 to 400 grain). That way, the loose hairs will stick to the sandpaper and are gently pulled out - depending on the adhesive strength of your painter's tape, it can sometimes be a bit more aggressive than you'd like :) Quick edit: The roller used also highly depends on the paint, which you apply. There is quite a difference between applying 1k and 2k paint. The hardener used in 2 component paint can do a number on the hairs on the roller, so a foam roller is preferable (in my experience) when working with 2k paint. For 1k paint, I absolutely agree with Andy :)
I’m painting a 1973 StarCraft Holiday 21’ boat. Uhhh, these types of boats of all sizes should be all over the place: where the heck did they all go? Such a great aluminum boat and will never fail with a ‘74 Johnson Stinger iii 115hp outboard: the best most minimum maintenance/repair outboard of all time
After getting a quote in the upper atmosphere, I eventually will be taking this on myself.Ive seen people like Mads roll and tip but I wasn't aware you could get a good finish from a roller alone. Awesome overview. Great information. (also have some consulting for you )
Im on my way to my shop to apply my finish primer coats of Alexseal 442 primer on my new Coosa Board seating for the 27' Whaler..Andy you have been my guide through this whole "Covid" project..its all working great..hope to paint later this week...bye bye Awlgrip...im all Alexseal now .thanks again Andy!
Interesting comment about tape. I did a lot of brightwork varnishing in the 90s. Here are a few random thouhts/comments on tape. We never used the plastic fineline stuff. I always saw that used for painting of curves and lines. When I paint my boat I'll pick some up and use it this time. Regarding masking tape - I never would have thought there was as difference, but the tan masking tape has always been a disappointment. The blue 3M tape was worth the upgrade. Since we were always working outside, we treated 3M blue tape as being able to leave in place "one week or less". 3M Green was "1-2 weeks max". I see that you use yellow and I've seen a customer of mine who is in the stainless steel fabrication and polishing business use orange (both also 3M). I wonder what the 3M folks say. When I work on my house, I stick with blue 3M, but I think I've tried the green FrogTape, too. I still avoid the tan stuff.
Hi thank you, after watching you mention this painting system on a previous edition I have been trying to find it with no luck. I’m in Adelaide South Australia, any guidance would be appreciated, thanks through watching your demonstrations I’ve actually been successful in doing some work on a boat I bought that certainly has needed it, I have surprised myself with the results and it’s inspired me to be honest, the things I’ve wanted to do to this boat have always been out of my abilities or so I thought, starting with little hole repairs and getting them faired and smooth I’ve gained understanding and confidence. I would not make money doing it, I’m not the fastest but I’m seeing good results now for the paint. Thanks again the guidance in glassing ect has allowed me to use my creativity .
Might be a bit late but i buy my Alexseal from Rextel Aerospace Coatings at Eagle Farm in Brisbane. Speak to Alden and tell him The Doctor from Redland City Marina sent ya
The masking tape you use matters big time if you’re painting outside. You want tape that comes up after being in the sun for a few days without constantly breaking or leaving residue and doesn’t pull up paint with it and stays on when it rains or the boat’s hosed off. I’m using Dolphin Washi ultra premium painter’s tape that meets all the criteria. I had tried many others that did not perform as advertised and after many tape tests, have settled on the Washi.
Your videos are great! My bread and butter is composite commercial fishing boats so I do all this glassing, fairing, and painting etc. stuff all week and still look forward to your videos.
Hate when those docks jump out of nowhere and kiss the boat! 😅Thanks for the great vid! Will definitely keep some totalbuff handy for those jumpy and overly friendly docks.
Hi and the best regards from Denmark. I love watching your videos and for June I will try to paint my Swedish Comfort 30. and it will be with paint roller. And thank you so much for all the super great videos you make. Regards Tim
I've used the redtree mini mohair rollers and no matter how many times I put tape on them, I still get fibers in the paint. It seams to shed fir the first 5 minutes and its good after that.
This may seem being cheap, but wondered what you do with the mohair rollers after applying paint with one - toss or clean? Thx. ... and GREAT videos. Prepping the transom of our (new to us) Marinette Marquis transom for new name lettering - old name removal, sanding (80 grit), priming (Rustoleum Above the Waterline for metal) 2 coats with sanding with 150 grit (1st coat) 320 grit (2nd coat), 2 coats of Interlux Brightside (sanding with 400 grit after 1st coat ). Local Lowes sells only single 4 1/2" mohair rollers. Your tips video should also have link to the 10 pack roller you showed.
Andy, I re built and glassed an old boat from the sub floor up to the decks. For sake of time I primed and painted with tractor supply oil based enamel. Obviously it looks not very good. Can I Gel coat over it or do I really have to sand it all back down to the glass??? I want to believe it’ll bond and be fine as it’s just a simple little fishing boat.
Hi Andy. Thanks for all your videos and the time you spend on making them. I have watched many of them and some og them many times. I have learned a lot - THANK YOU!
I've seen some people 'tip-off' the roller marks with a fine brush before you move on to the next 2 foot area. It's good to see that you don't advocate this :)
I've achieved excellent results rolling and tipping with both single and two-part paints.Frankly, I'm not sure I understood Andy's explanation here about rolling two square foot blocks, side by each and not feathering the overlap? Not how I paint.
Nice tips. Perhaps I haven't found them yet, but in all your videos I've seen, including this one, you mention finishing fiberglass and gel coats. I have a wooden boat. Please make mention if anything is different when finishing wood versus fiberglass. In addition, a varnishing video and tips would be nice. Thanks!
Hello, Thank you for your teaching! I don't understand why we need to use two tapes and lay them over each other. I'm just learning about painting. Thanks!
Best & simplest explanation of what to do as always. Over time you have pretty much covered everything I’ll need to know when I start the refurbishment Of my own boat. I only wish I could get some of the products you recommend here in Australia.
I remark between coats simply because when repainting a bottom I put heavy millage and have had night mare situations removing the tape... That said I put the fine line over the masking below so I'm removing all the masking.. just the line... and yes I'm spraying high build epoxy, backrolling the first application.. filling pin holes etc..
Andy, Great video as always. Very informative and you are teaching me a lot. I'm presently prepping a fibreglass trailer for primer, primarily using polyester resins, fibreglass chop and automotive waterproof, "non-shrinking" fillers. I will be using a System Three Silvertip Waterborne Epoxy Primer and applying with a Pressure Pot LVLP paint gun as per the manufactures instructions. I've worn through the gelcoat in a few spots. I've sealed the exposed fibreglass with unwaxed polyester resin thinned 20% with styrene monomer. When I tried to sand the resin it was gumming up on my sandpaper. I then went over with a coat of waxed resin. It has been a few days and I'm heading out to see how this sands. My question. Was this the right approach for treating the exposed weave? Thanks again. Very impressed with your production quality of your videos.
Have you ever tried the Epifanes line of roll on paint products? They make the same claims as the new Alexseal additive, I was looking at them a few years ago for a project that I still haven't gotten around to painting and I wonder how they compare. Cheers and keep up the awesome videos! I can't wait to see more on the Bertram soon!
My Gess was 80 , 180 , and 400. I have never worked with faring compound. Or micro balloons bit I have done a lot of fiber glass work on cars and more body kits then I can remember. It’s all in the mixing and the temperature. I have seen a lot of what you do.
Have you tried Storch Unifilt Pro Rollers? They are made with endless yarns, so by standards they won't spread fibres around. Still I'm experiencing quite some dirt in the paint. Of course I filtered the paint and used honeycloth to clean the surface. Even wiping of 3 or 4 times, often I found still coloured dust in the cloth. Have you tried different cloths? What else do you do for cleaning the surfaces before painting?
Andy, You have been a great help. Wonder if you could do a real life gel coat dock gouge gel-coat repair with color match. Have had lots of problems with gel-coat repairs yellowing after a year or so. Also, any temporary fast hairline crack cover up tricks in glass?? Thank’s! Keep it up 👍🏻
Quick question about paint application from one section to the next. Overlap or not? How much, any pointers in regard to this? This is regards to rolling, not spraying.
If you are putting it on thick try to keep the overlaps to a minimum as you get tiger striping where the paint guage is too thick on the overlaps. If it's going on thin you can overlap as much as you want as generally you will be going over patches that are too thin or thick to even it all out. If you know about spray painting then try to do the same, keep on the move and don't spend 5 mins trying to get one bit perfect, you can go over that bit an hour later when skin dry.
Hi - your videos are incredible. I have a sailboat, and I feel like I don't really understand how to take care of the hull. Repairs, painting, clearing growth during the season - I feel like I am "all thumbs." Is there somewhere - a school perhaps - in the Northeast, or anywhere, you would recommend to go to learn about hull repair, upkeep, and painting? Thank you, Todd
Hello, I was wondering if you could do series on stripping an aluminum Mast and Boom and show how to fill and fair unwanted holes and the repaint process. Also when is a Mast and Boom still salvageable for duty or when they need replacement. I am using aluminum bolts with the heads ground flush to fill my old holes. The big question is painting and fairing oxidized pits in the aluminum. Accomplishing this the right way and doing it without a sprayer if at all possible. With acceptable DIY results. Thank you and wish everyone a good 2021.
So helpful friend. Thank you for continuing to post these video's. I hope finances allow me to contribute to your work in the future. For now I'm a DIY vagabond whose cutter is in the yard. Quick question? Not so quick answer? No mention of tipping here (aside from the follow up with the roller as you suggested). Is that due to the specific products you mention and support? I will be doing things slightly different (most likely with different products), not looking for a perfect showboat finish. Soren is a Norwegian design who deserves a bit of traditional roughness (with-in reason of course). Mahalo's
?????? I want to paint my 30 year old Sail Boat because it needs waxed often. If not we get a chalky gritty powder that is coming off the boat. When I’m Sailing in my bathing suit with a fresh layer of sunscreen, the boat is the last thing I want to touch or sit on!! What is the best marine paint for upper boat? And best paint product for bottom of boat? And your preferred wax? Thank You for All your Very Helpful Videos ⛵️ 😉
Does Alexseal have a bottom side product, or are they just topside? I also want to thank you for all your videos. They are helping me so much to understand what is correct and the best ways to make repairs to my boat.
I understand why you wouldn't want to use topside paint under the waterline, but why not use bottom paints above the waterline? I'm hoping to use only 1 colour in painting the entire hull of the boat and I thought using one colour would make it far easier.
Right so, top coat vrs bottom coat at the boot line. Which primer should overlap? Run bottom epoxy base primer just a little higher or top coat primer a little low? I don't want a miniscule line with neither bottom coat nor top coat on it.
Amazing vid as always. I. Regards to the sanding, particularly sanding the last primer coat and before the finish coat, are you dry sanding or wet? I’m painting the deck of a sailing dinghy, so not a huge area, so a secondary question particularly the last sand before the finish coat, hand or machine?
Timely! Repainting a canoe with black Brightsides (again) and had sanded through grey primer into yellow gelcoat in several spots. No time to strip and start again with 2-part. Maybe next year. Should have used 2-part the first time. My question: Is primer required in these several spots over the yellow gelcoat even when I'm using black?
I am a new subscriber. So thankful I found you. My husband and I have been watching your tutorials and talking about using the ALEXSEAL to paint topside (boat project). We live in eastern NC, high humidity, hot, etc. We will be outside. Will the ALEXSEAL be a good option for this project? Thank you!
After completely sanding off a 30 year old neglected bottom back down through paint and gelcoat to the original glass layup I want to simply paint the entire bottom of the dinghy. Would like to roll and tip both above and below the waterline with a single product. I don't mind a non glossy or semi gloss finish and am wondering if there is a single paint that can satisfy this application for the entire hull, from the rub-rail down? A hard bottom paint possibly?
I love your channel I have learned a lot watching you over past few months...I have a question and would really like your advise I need to send a few pictures of my boat so you can see what I'm asking I'm not very good at explaining or describing so sorry. Where can I send pictures with my question please and thank you it's a rather time sensitive matter .
Excellent video, almost ready to paint from the waterline to the top and this really tied things together , thank you . I was planning one coat with a 2 part urethane but I’ll go with the 2 ( have enough paint for that) let it cure and add 3rd if needed. I was debating the primer but now I’m definitely gonna roll it on to keep things uniform. ( painting, fiberglass epoxy nubie ) After the final coat is it a good idea to wax or is ready to go at that point ? Thanks 👍👍
Such great information. I understand everything you are saying... but what about damaged non skid? I have a whole bunch of non skid with crazing. Do I just knock all the non skid down, fill and paint?
Just thought of another one I was rolling out my kayak hull. I would up with a few spots where the paint layed out nice the whole thing looked great. Next day went to look at it and there was 3-4 spots about 12/12 but once cured it turned out Flat looking. Is this from overworking the paint.
Good knowledge , a little wordy, demonstrations are always helpful which this video clip lacks The .splash Image shows him painting a boat, but that never actually was shown in the video!
I'm now a distributor for Alexseal and can ship anywhere in the Continental US! Check it out! www.millerboatworks.com
I've spent more than 65 years in boats, 30 of them as a full time professional captain and I have just recently retired. And now I stumble upon this guy! Absolutely the best website on working on boats I've ever encountered! Too bad I didn't discover it when I actually needed it but retired or not, boatless or not, I still enjoy watching these videos and I learn something of value every time. Great Job!
I just want to say thank you, I was recently given a 23 foot sailing boat that had been standing for 8 years and was in real bad shape, I didn´t know if it was worth saving but thanks to your videos I have learnt a lot and decided to give her a new lease of life, I have just put on my first topcoat on the sides and it looks pretty good for my first attempt. I am now waiting a few hours to apply a second coat then tomorrow a sand and final coat. Your knowledge is invaluable to a guy like me and I just wanted to acknowledge that. Well done mate!
Andy, thank you for passing along your wisdom restoring an old boat back to its original shape. Reuse and recycle are alive and well at your shop.
Andy's a legend. Whatever can't find in his channel can find in any related videos. It all started with this guy.
Thanks to Andy I have learned Everything I need to wrap and seal my Squaredrop project.
True. I may have gone overboard but any river crossing my vehicles can make my camper will make too. ( In Theory. LOL)
I swear I've never hand sanded one project so much in my life!
And now to Roll and Tip !
Thank You Andy!
I know that doesn't pay the bills. Hopefully someday I can repay you.
Your Greatly Appreciated
Got my Alexseal shipment this past week and spent the day putting up my plastic debris barrier. I'm using an old bass boat I bought to use as an experiment and can't wait to try this out! Thank you for getting the roll additive out so quickly. Will be posting results along the way on my fb page as well as my own TH-cam channel. Thanks again, and you're video library has helped me every step of the way.
Oh my God! I feel like I need to watch this five times. And I will. Very intimidating. All those numbers for the Sanding.
Excellent timing! I haul my 47ft monohull out for bottom paint this Friday. My first time doing it on my own. Appreciate your videos a great deal. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Hi Andy. Foam stands for Fall Off And Mess. Lint or mohair rollers are excellent. Great useful imformation to achieve an awesome job. 😊 thanks.
Another recommendation for getting rid of loose hairs on rolls and brushes is to roll / brush along fine sandpaper (anywhere between 240 to 400 grain).
That way, the loose hairs will stick to the sandpaper and are gently pulled out - depending on the adhesive strength of your painter's tape, it can sometimes be a bit more aggressive than you'd like :)
Quick edit: The roller used also highly depends on the paint, which you apply. There is quite a difference between applying 1k and 2k paint. The hardener used in 2 component paint can do a number on the hairs on the roller, so a foam roller is preferable (in my experience) when working with 2k paint. For 1k paint, I absolutely agree with Andy :)
I’m painting a 1973 StarCraft Holiday 21’ boat.
Uhhh, these types of boats of all sizes should be all over the place: where the heck did they all go?
Such a great aluminum boat and will never fail with a ‘74 Johnson Stinger iii 115hp outboard: the best most minimum maintenance/repair outboard of all time
Best teacher on board stuff period!! We are about to get started on our painting... this was PRICELESS info!!!
How did it go? I have to paint my boat and will be doing it soon.
After getting a quote in the upper atmosphere, I eventually will be taking this on myself.Ive seen people like Mads roll and tip but I wasn't aware you could get a good finish from a roller alone. Awesome overview. Great information. (also have some consulting for you )
Im on my way to my shop to apply my finish primer coats of Alexseal 442 primer on my new Coosa Board seating for the 27' Whaler..Andy you have been my guide through this whole "Covid" project..its all working great..hope to paint later this week...bye bye Awlgrip...im all Alexseal now .thanks again Andy!
Marty...I'm hanging out here holding my breath waiting for you to finish the transom in the Bertram.
Interesting comment about tape. I did a lot of brightwork varnishing in the 90s. Here are a few random thouhts/comments on tape.
We never used the plastic fineline stuff. I always saw that used for painting of curves and lines. When I paint my boat I'll pick some up and use it this time.
Regarding masking tape - I never would have thought there was as difference, but the tan masking tape has always been a disappointment. The blue 3M tape was worth the upgrade.
Since we were always working outside, we treated 3M blue tape as being able to leave in place "one week or less". 3M Green was "1-2 weeks max". I see that you use yellow and I've seen a customer of mine who is in the stainless steel fabrication and polishing business use orange (both also 3M). I wonder what the 3M folks say.
When I work on my house, I stick with blue 3M, but I think I've tried the green FrogTape, too. I still avoid the tan stuff.
Best video I've found so far I'd love a video of explaining products and terminology just quick snippets of them. Thanks for the info!
Always Great tips. One can not reinforce one's knowledge enough. Thanks for a great review.
100% agree about the cheap foam rollers. Swell and fall apart especially if using them with gelcoat, flocoat or resin.
Keep this video type going Andy. I need all the help I can get to repair and then paint my boat. Great channel !!
Extremely helpful Andy, especially the grits of paper used.
Thanks Andy! Just about to apply surfacing primer. Your videos always cut to the chase!
Hi thank you, after watching you mention this painting system on a previous edition I have been trying to find it with no luck. I’m in Adelaide South Australia, any guidance would be appreciated, thanks through watching your demonstrations I’ve actually been successful in doing some work on a boat I bought that certainly has needed it, I have surprised myself with the results and it’s inspired me to be honest, the things I’ve wanted to do to this boat have always been out of my abilities or so I thought, starting with little hole repairs and getting them faired and smooth I’ve gained understanding and confidence. I would not make money doing it, I’m not the fastest but I’m seeing good results now for the paint. Thanks again the guidance in glassing ect has allowed me to use my creativity .
Might be a bit late but i buy my Alexseal from Rextel Aerospace Coatings at Eagle Farm in Brisbane. Speak to Alden and tell him The Doctor from Redland City Marina sent ya
Got a $200 old town discovery 158. Sanded and repainted using this process, literally looks brand new. Nicer than $1300 ones.
The masking tape you use matters big time if you’re painting outside. You want tape that comes up after being in the sun for a few days without constantly breaking or leaving residue and doesn’t pull up paint with it and stays on when it rains or the boat’s hosed off. I’m using Dolphin Washi ultra premium painter’s tape that meets all the criteria. I had tried many others that did not perform as advertised and after many tape tests, have settled on the Washi.
The kids will love it! Hope you get it on the water!
Your videos are great! My bread and butter is composite commercial fishing boats so I do all this glassing, fairing, and painting etc. stuff all week and still look forward to your videos.
Awesome high level of a class, as all your videos! Thanks! I always watch your videos before doing anything on my boat and kayaks...
a great guy like you are most welcome to Ghombau, Negeri Sembilan, Malaysia....
Would love to see a video on prepping an old rough metal flake boat for new paint.
Hate when those docks jump out of nowhere and kiss the boat! 😅Thanks for the great vid! Will definitely keep some totalbuff handy for those jumpy and overly friendly docks.
Hi and the best regards from Denmark. I love watching your videos and for June I will try to paint my Swedish Comfort 30. and it will be with paint roller. And thank you so much for all the super great videos you make. Regards Tim
Andy we are all waiting for you to come back and give us your knowledge.
So good Andy. Started removal of some hardware in the cockpit today. Can’t wait. 👍✌️
You sir are a black belt in your craft
I know right.
Why do they even make foam rollers.
With micro fiber rollers sleeves
Looks almost sprayed.
They don't shed either.
✌
way cheaper to make. now why they cost so much is beyond me.
I've used the redtree mini mohair rollers and no matter how many times I put tape on them, I still get fibers in the paint. It seams to shed fir the first 5 minutes and its good after that.
always looking forward to your videos ! very informative ! Im my country we have a mix of fibre glass and steel boats out on the water.
Yay wonderful instructional information and top tips on paint work.
Thanks Buddy 👍
Well I will apply primer with a roller to save cleaning the spray gun but will spray the paint... Great job again...
This may seem being cheap, but wondered what you do with the mohair rollers after applying paint with one - toss or clean? Thx. ... and GREAT videos. Prepping the transom of our (new to us) Marinette Marquis transom for new name lettering - old name removal, sanding (80 grit), priming (Rustoleum Above the Waterline for metal) 2 coats with sanding with 150 grit (1st coat) 320 grit (2nd coat), 2 coats of Interlux Brightside (sanding with 400 grit after 1st coat ). Local Lowes sells only single 4 1/2" mohair rollers. Your tips video should also have link to the 10 pack roller you showed.
Andy, I re built and glassed an old boat from the sub floor up to the decks. For sake of time I primed and painted with tractor supply oil based enamel. Obviously it looks not very good. Can I Gel coat over it or do I really have to sand it all back down to the glass??? I want to believe it’ll bond and be fine as it’s just a simple little fishing boat.
Thank you for you knowledge Brother! With love from Gulf Shores,Alabama
Thank you for these amazing lessons. You have a great gift of teaching that couples with your gift of craftsmanship. Cheers, Dani. 🤗
Thanks for the mention of the 5018.
Thank you Andy!!! Outstanding series of videos. I am restoring a 25' Donzi. Your advice has been priceless. Again, thank you!
Hi Andy. Thanks for all your videos and the time you spend on making them. I have watched many of them and some og them many times. I have learned a lot - THANK YOU!
You are the man, simply put.
I've seen some people 'tip-off' the roller marks with a fine brush before you move on to the next 2 foot area. It's good to see that you don't advocate this :)
I've achieved excellent results rolling and tipping with both single and two-part paints.Frankly, I'm not sure I understood Andy's explanation here about rolling two square foot blocks, side by each and not feathering the overlap? Not how I paint.
Nice tips. Perhaps I haven't found them yet, but in all your videos I've seen, including this one, you mention finishing fiberglass and gel coats. I have a wooden boat. Please make mention if anything is different when finishing wood versus fiberglass. In addition, a varnishing video and tips would be nice. Thanks!
thanks for sharing bud. I just bought a 27ft yacht that needs a hull paint.
Hello, Thank you for your teaching! I don't understand why we need to use two tapes and lay them over each other. I'm just learning about painting. Thanks!
Best & simplest explanation of what to do as always. Over time you have pretty much covered everything I’ll need to know when I start the refurbishment Of my own boat. I only wish I could get some of the products you recommend here in Australia.
In 22 minutes...he gives decades of experience!
Save this video and review it!
Thanks
I remark between coats simply because when repainting a bottom I put heavy millage and have had night mare situations removing the tape...
That said I put the fine line over the masking below so I'm removing all the masking.. just the line... and yes I'm spraying high build epoxy, backrolling the first application.. filling pin holes etc..
Useful video. Thank you. I made natural camouflage for the boat and garden furniture. It looks great too. Already posted the video.
Andy, Great video as always. Very informative and you are teaching me a lot. I'm presently prepping a fibreglass trailer for primer, primarily using polyester resins, fibreglass chop and automotive waterproof, "non-shrinking" fillers. I will be using a System Three Silvertip Waterborne Epoxy Primer and applying with a Pressure Pot LVLP paint gun as per the manufactures instructions. I've worn through the gelcoat in a few spots. I've sealed the exposed fibreglass with unwaxed polyester resin thinned 20% with styrene monomer. When I tried to sand the resin it was gumming up on my sandpaper. I then went over with a coat of waxed resin. It has been a few days and I'm heading out to see how this sands. My question. Was this the right approach for treating the exposed weave? Thanks again. Very impressed with your production quality of your videos.
Have you ever tried the Epifanes line of roll on paint products? They make the same claims as the new Alexseal additive, I was looking at them a few years ago for a project that I still haven't gotten around to painting and I wonder how they compare. Cheers and keep up the awesome videos! I can't wait to see more on the Bertram soon!
So cool so informative I love this channel you are good at explaining seriously
Great news I wish you did this a couple years ago it would have helped to have this information thank you
My Gess was 80 , 180 , and 400. I have never worked with faring compound. Or micro balloons bit I have done a lot of fiber glass work on cars and more body kits then I can remember. It’s all in the mixing and the temperature. I have seen a lot of what you do.
Have you tried Storch Unifilt Pro Rollers? They are made with endless yarns, so by standards they won't spread fibres around. Still I'm experiencing quite some dirt in the paint. Of course I filtered the paint and used honeycloth to clean the surface. Even wiping of 3 or 4 times, often I found still coloured dust in the cloth. Have you tried different cloths? What else do you do for cleaning the surfaces before painting?
Andy, You have been a great help. Wonder if you could do a real life gel coat dock gouge gel-coat repair with color match. Have had lots of problems with gel-coat repairs yellowing after a year or so. Also, any temporary fast hairline crack cover up tricks in glass?? Thank’s! Keep it up 👍🏻
Quick question about paint application from one section to the next. Overlap or not? How much, any pointers in regard to this? This is regards to rolling, not spraying.
If you are putting it on thick try to keep the overlaps to a minimum as you get tiger striping where the paint guage is too thick on the overlaps. If it's going on thin you can overlap as much as you want as generally you will be going over patches that are too thin or thick to even it all out. If you know about spray painting then try to do the same, keep on the move and don't spend 5 mins trying to get one bit perfect, you can go over that bit an hour later when skin dry.
Hi - your videos are incredible. I have a sailboat, and I feel like I don't really understand how to take care of the hull. Repairs, painting, clearing growth during the season - I feel like I am "all thumbs." Is there somewhere - a school perhaps - in the Northeast, or anywhere, you would recommend to go to learn about hull repair, upkeep, and painting? Thank you, Todd
Hello,
I was wondering if you could do series on stripping an aluminum Mast and Boom and show how to fill and fair unwanted holes and the repaint process. Also when is a Mast and Boom still salvageable for duty or when they need replacement.
I am using aluminum bolts with the heads ground flush to fill my old holes. The big question is painting and fairing oxidized pits in the aluminum. Accomplishing this the right way and doing it without a sprayer if at all possible. With acceptable DIY results. Thank you and wish everyone a good 2021.
So helpful friend. Thank you for continuing to post these video's. I hope finances allow me to contribute to your work in the future. For now I'm a DIY vagabond whose cutter is in the yard. Quick question? Not so quick answer? No mention of tipping here (aside from the follow up with the roller as you suggested). Is that due to the specific products you mention and support? I will be doing things slightly different (most likely with different products), not looking for a perfect showboat finish. Soren is a Norwegian design who deserves a bit of traditional roughness (with-in reason of course). Mahalo's
Thank you so much for all the info. Great video. So I would like to apply two coats of primer. How long do I wait between coats? Thanks in advance.
Just starting watching your channel. Awesome! Great explanations! Clear and concise. Subscribed!!
Fantastic as always Andy. Thank you for your knowledge of information.
Always look forward to seeing the next video.
?????? I want to paint my 30 year old Sail Boat because it needs waxed often. If not we get a chalky gritty powder that is coming off the boat. When I’m Sailing in my bathing suit with a fresh layer of sunscreen, the boat is the last thing I want to touch or sit on!! What is the best marine paint for upper boat? And best paint product for bottom of boat? And your preferred wax? Thank You for All your Very Helpful Videos ⛵️ 😉
Does Alexseal have a bottom side product, or are they just topside? I also want to thank you for all your videos. They are helping me so much to understand what is correct and the best ways to make repairs to my boat.
I understand why you wouldn't want to use topside paint under the waterline, but why not use bottom paints above the waterline? I'm hoping to use only 1 colour in painting the entire hull of the boat and I thought using one colour would make it far easier.
Thank you Andy! Your videos are teaching me so much.
I have found the same issue with the foam roller and much prefer using the mohair style.
Amazing info! I was wondering what I should wash it (canoe) with after sanding between layers.
Great video! Off to outside and see what kind of damage I can do wish me luck!
Thank you! Cleared up a list of questions.
Andy I hope you are doing okay 🙏 Haven’t seen a new video in awhile. Take care
Right so, top coat vrs bottom coat at the boot line. Which primer should overlap? Run bottom epoxy base primer just a little higher or top coat primer a little low? I don't want a miniscule line with neither bottom coat nor top coat on it.
Can you sand your old paint and use that as the primer
One word = comprehensive 😎
Amazing vid as always. I. Regards to the sanding, particularly sanding the last primer coat and before the finish coat, are you dry sanding or wet? I’m painting the deck of a sailing dinghy, so not a huge area, so a secondary question particularly the last sand before the finish coat, hand or machine?
You should definitely make a Live leak water repair on fiberglass ??? Let me know!!!
Timely! Repainting a canoe with black Brightsides (again) and had sanded through grey primer into yellow gelcoat in several spots. No time to strip and start again with 2-part. Maybe next year. Should have used 2-part the first time. My question: Is primer required in these several spots over the yellow gelcoat even when I'm using black?
I am a new subscriber. So thankful I found you. My husband and I have been watching your tutorials and talking about using the ALEXSEAL to paint topside (boat project). We live in eastern NC, high humidity, hot, etc. We will be outside. Will the ALEXSEAL be a good option for this project? Thank you!
After completely sanding off a 30 year old neglected bottom back down through paint and gelcoat to the original glass layup I want to simply paint the entire bottom of the dinghy. Would like to roll and tip both above and below the waterline with a single product.
I don't mind a non glossy or semi gloss finish and am wondering if there is a single paint that can satisfy this application for the entire hull, from the rub-rail down? A hard bottom paint possibly?
Great Video Andy... you should have a LOT more subs.
Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Happy New Year! You good Andy? Been a wee while since the last video. Looking forward to some Moppie too!
I love your channel I have learned a lot watching you over past few months...I have a question and would really like your advise I need to send a few pictures of my boat so you can see what I'm asking I'm not very good at explaining or describing so sorry. Where can I send pictures with my question please and thank you it's a rather time sensitive matter .
Excellent video, almost ready to paint from the waterline to the top and this really tied things together , thank you . I was planning one coat with a 2 part urethane but I’ll go with the 2 ( have enough paint for that) let it cure and add 3rd if needed. I was debating the primer but now I’m definitely gonna roll it on to keep things uniform. ( painting, fiberglass epoxy nubie )
After the final coat is it a good idea to wax or is ready to go at that point ? Thanks 👍👍
Nice advice . Question ; why no “ batton “ to check fairness?, how about noodling hull first . Thanks
Great video. Is brush tipping not required with this current video system? Thanks
Such great information. I understand everything you are saying... but what about damaged non skid? I have a whole bunch of non skid with crazing. Do I just knock all the non skid down, fill and paint?
Just thought of another one I was rolling out my kayak hull. I would up with a few spots where the paint layed out nice the whole thing looked great. Next day went to look at it and there was 3-4 spots about 12/12 but once cured it turned out Flat looking. Is this from overworking the paint.
Good knowledge , a little wordy, demonstrations are always helpful which this video clip lacks
The .splash Image shows him painting a boat, but that never actually was shown in the video!
SO incredibly helpful! thank you so much
Awesome Andy. Thank you 🙏
I'm getting ready to paint a bass boat with Total Boat Top Side primer. How long should I let that sit before painting the Wet Edge final color paint?